2008 Galante Vineyards Red Rose Hill Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: High Horse

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Galante Vineyards in California’s beautiful Carmel Valley and procure an ample allotment their newest Red Rose Hill Cab for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Galante Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2008 Red Rose Hill Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Greg Vita

Backgrounder: Our loyal Operatives know that we arehuge fans of Galante wines. Whenever we can get our hands on their limited-production wines, we jump at the chance to feature them here. Today, we are proud to bring you Jack Galante’s exceptional new 2007 Red Rose Hill Cabernet Sauvignon. This bright young wine is delicious and ready to enjoy now. Just be certain to buy a few bottles to lay down, and you’ll be rewarded! Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below to learn more about this superior Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Brilliant magenta hues, from the core of the wine, right out to its brilliant, glinting edge. When spun and held to the light, the magenta coloring takes on an iridescent quality. After the wine settles, tall, skinny, wine-stained legs move swiftly down the glass.

Smell – Lush and alive, this wine exudes black cherry, blackberry, leather, spice and fresh salad herbs. As the wine opens, dried meats, dark sweetwoods, strawberry and black pepper emerge.

Feel – Taught and medium-bodied if sampled right after opening. As the wine breathes, it really softens up, taking on a much more rounded feel. Grippy tannins and a balanced acidity provide the perfect framework from the fruit. A slow, spreading dryness moves from the center of the palate, radiating outward.

Taste – Dark fruit and red fruit of overripe blackberry, plum, black cherry, strawberry, red currant and Bing cherry are balanced against savory herbs, dark cocoa, espresso bean, dried violets, dusty spice and cracked pepper.

Finish – Long, juicy and flavor-filled with dark fruits giving way to red fruits. As the fruits fade, cocoa, espresso bean and spice persist for a long time.

Conclusion – This is the fourth time that The Wine Spies have featured a successive vintage of today’s special wine. We have to say, winemaker, Greg Vita, gets it so right – once again. Today’s 2008 Galante Vaneyards Red Rose Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, from Jack Galante’s own Red Rose Hill vineyard, is a juicy, balanced, flavor-packed treat that will delight Galante fans and fans of big, juicy Cabs, in general. This is a vibrant, delicious wine with just the right amount of intrigue and complexity as to make it exciting and approachable. Pair with a spicy carne asada, fresh off the grill. Be sure to stock up. This wine is drinking beautifully now, but it will only continue to improve over the next several years.

Mission Report

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: As always, Jack, thank you so much for allowing us to showcase your wines for these last four-plus years. It has been a pleasure and an honor to get to know you and to have enjoyed your wines.

JACK: Thank you, Agent Red. We love that your Operatives love our wines so much! Tell me, though, when will I finally get my own Agent name?

RED: You have one, already! It’s [REDACTED], but be careful who you reveal this to… Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JACK: Our 2008 Red Rose Hill Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 76% Cabernet and 8% each of Malbec, Merlot and Petite Sirah. This wine has a lovely aroma of toasted oak and bright flavors of raspberry and currant. age worthy and would easily do well in your cellar for the next 5 to 10 years.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JACK: I really enjoy this wine with lamb shanks or braised short ribs.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Carmel Valley so special?

JACK: Our Carmel Valley Appellation in Monterey County is well known for its fabulous cabernet sauvignons. The region is marked with a big temperature variation in the growing season. Cold crisp nights and warm days make it extremely suitable as a wine growing region as harvest normally occurs in October and November.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JACK: We have been incredibly busy lately. We just finished bottling Dawn’s Dream wines (Dawn Galante started her own brand recently) as well as some of the wines of our custom crush customers. We are also going through the vineyards weeding and suckering. Lots of fun events at the winery are planned for the coming months as well.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. The Wine Spies remain loyal fans.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Galante Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Estancia Estates Reserve Chardonnay

Mission Codename: The Essence of Soledad

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Estancia Estates and secure an allocation of their Reserve Chardonnay – before they run out.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Estancia Estates

Wine Subject: 2006 Reserve Chardonnay

Winemaker: Scott Kelley

Backgrounder: Monterey County is home to some of the finest Chardonnay in the country. The Wine Spies have featured several Monterey County Chardonnays and, every time, our Operatives have scooped them up enthusiastically. Today we mark our return to Estancia – and return, with the final cases of their stellar 2006 Reserve Chardonnay, a wine that is in perfect form and still approaching its peak.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Light golden yellow, with perfect clarity ad perfectly even coloration, from core to edge. Swirl the wine wine and marvel at round after round of tall, skinny tears that fall slowly down the glass.

Smell – Bold and full on the nose, lush fruit and dried flowers jump from the glass. Bright, zesty lemon, pineapple and Anjou pear take the lead. As it warms a little, dried white flower petals, flinty minerals and toasted oak round out the nose.

Feel – Soft, smooth and velvety on the tip of the tongue. As it settles onto the palate, this wine takes on a more medium-bodied feel. Soft minerals and a bright acidity add complexity.

Taste – Bright and zesty, with fresh lemon, acacia flowers, flint, toasty oak and a hint of Asian pear. As the wine opens up (allow it to warm slightly), it reveals darker citrus flavors and hints of softest spice, toasted vanilla bean and a subtle earthiness.

Finish – Long and complex, but clean and refreshing, with fruit and soft spice that last a very long time.

Conclusion – The 22006 Estancia Reserve Chardonnay is a delicious wine that is fresh, intriguing and just a little complex. Bold aromatics greet the nose before you even lift your glass for a sniff. Flavors are of authentic fruit, minerals, soft oak, white flowers, complex darker toasty vanilla and subtle spice. While this wine is a 2006, it was built for a little bit of aging. The wine is approaching its peak, and it probably has another year or two left in it, for optimal enjoyment. Quantities are very limited, as we got out hands on every last case that the winery had. Act quickly, as this wine will certainly sell out!

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of Agent Red’s recent interview with winemaker Scott Kelly when we featured another of his fantastic wines:

SUBJECT: Scott Kelley, Estancia

PLACE OF BIRTH: Salinas, CA

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: General Manager and Director of Wine Making-Estancia

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Estancia’s winemaking philosophy continues to be firmly rooted in terroir, with the goal of producing wines that reflect the unique vineyards and appellations in which they are cultivated.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Pinot Noir

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Becoming GM and Director of Winemaking at Estancia.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “It begins and ends in the Vineyard.”

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Scott. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Estancia Reserve Meritage today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SCOTT: Thank you very much. Always happy to chat with the Wine Spies!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SCOTT: I knew I wanted to do this since I was seventeen. I grew up in agriculture family and had an early interest in chemistry while in high school. I really found winemaking to be the perfect blend of agriculture and chemistry. My older brother was into viticulture as well, so that probably influenced my career direction a bit.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

SCOTT: Growing up I had a lot of varied interests, not just in oenology but also in food science, so I pursued studies in Fermentation Science at the University of California at Davis. In addition to winemaking, I also explored the principles and science behind distillation, food engineering and even a little cheese-making. Since my brother and I were experimenting with home brewing during the summers, I took the opportunity to study at Davis’ Institute of Brewing Studies, eventually earning a Master Brewers Certificate. After Davis, I joined the Carmel Brewing Company, and eventually assembled a brewpub in Monterey from the ground up, formulating the recipes and brewing all the beer that we would serve on tap. I had always enjoyed the engineering side of things such as fluid dynamics and heat transfer, and working in a small brewpub allowed me to be hands-on throughout the brewing process and use some of the mechanical skills I learned growing up.
Ultimately though, I found that brewing didn’t really fulfill my creative side, and I found myself gravitating back toward winemaking. In 2000, I joined the Robert Mondavi family of wines working on a variety of brands that took me from Australia to Italy. These experiences abroad really shaped my philosophy about wine and winemaking, my travels to Italy clarified the synergy between wine and food, while making wine in Australia introduced me to a new approach with a focus on the details and the idea that you only get one chance to make a wine great.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

SCOTT: Winemaking fulfills my artistic side without giving up the innovative hands-on experience that keeps me in touch with my family’s roots in agriculture. I enjoy all of the challenges that each vintage presents in order to shape the style of wines we make at Estancia.. Our winemaking style is one that fully embraces the coastal terroir.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Monterey and the Central Coast region so special?

SCOTT: Born and raised in Monterey County, I have tremendous respect for the climate – the wind and fog and the impact it has on the fruit and wine. Whether it is using less oak in the Chardonnay to protect the tropical characters or fermenting Pinot Noir only in open-top fermenters to respect the silky tannins, I am really passionate about making estate-based wines that have truly have a reason for being.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

SCOTT: Estancia Meritage is a sophisticated, rich, complex and luscious wine harvested from the distinctive terroir of our Keyes Canyon Ranch and the Paso Robles AVA.. The 2006 Meritage was a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 8% Petite Verdot. This wine has vibrant, dark black cherries with hints of anise, rosemary and sage. Accents of chocolate powder and soft oak. Intense flavors of chocolate dipped black fruit, accompanied by notes of sweet oak. Wonderfully structured ripe tannins lead to a nice long, fruit driven finish.

In 1999, Estancia planted its Keyes Canyon Ranch, covering nearly 700 acres of vineyards in appellation of Paso Robles. This unique appellation is home to more extreme temperature swings than any other wine-growing region in California. During the day, the vines bask in the warm sunshine and at night they are soothed by a cool marine layer from the Pacific Ocean. In addition, the infertile soils and rugged terrain of Keyes Canyon, encourages the vines to yield small fruit clusters with tiny berries packed full of rich berry tones.

The 2006 harvest was compact due to a wet spring, cooler than average summer, and then a record blast of heat at veraison. September 26th marked the beginning of harvest which continued through October 26th.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SCOTT: I think this wine is very versatile, but it would marry particularly well with steak or nicely grilled rack of lamb.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

SCOTT: When I am not making wine, my fiancée Dena and I try to find time to pursue one of our many hobbies. We golf, cook, hunt, scuba diving and we go fly fishing for Steelhead in Oregon.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

SCOTT: It’s tough to pick a “favorite” as it really depends on what time of year it is or what we might be enjoying for dinner. Pinot Noir is always a favorite, and I have to say that that the more we play around with the Grenache fruit that we have on some of our Estate properties the more excited I am getting about that varietal.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

SCOTT: Thanks, this has been a lot of fun. I hope everyone enjoys the Meritage…it’s one of my favorite wines to make each year.

Wine Spies Winery Check:
The location of the Estancia Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Castello di Conti Boca DOC Nebbiolo Blend

Mission Codename: The Rarest of the Romans

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit the historic Boca DOC in Italy’s Piedmont and secure an exclusive allocation of wine from this very special region.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cantine del Castello di Conti

Wine Subject: 2004 Boca DOC Nebbiolo Blend

Winemakers: Paola, Anna and Elena Conti

Backgrounder: The wines of Boca DOC, located in the Novara Hills (just north of Gattinara) of the Piedmont, are predominantly Nebbiolo based with the addition of Vespolina and sometimes Uva Rara (Bonarda Novarese). The region located to the north and west of Milan and just across the river from Gattinara. In addition to Nebbiolo, the local grapes of Vespolina and Bonarda may be used in the wines.

Today’s wine is 70% of Nebbiolo, 25% of Vespolina, 5% of Uva Rara and was aged for 36 months in oak and then an additional aging in the bottle. Organic ad Bio-Dynamically produced.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Brilliantly clear ruby red in its core with a touch of purple to add density. Along the edges this wine’s patina lightens slightly and includes hints of brick and orange. When swirled, fast thin legs quickly ring the glass and are followed by slow and tightly spaced tears that descend at varying speeds.

Smell – Spiced and herbal red fruit leads the way with bright notes of red cherry and zesty black licorice. Hints of violets mature toasted oak and earthy undertones adds depth and complexity.

Feel – Bright and spicy on the initial attack, this warm medium-to-full bodied dry wine has highly textured firm but finely grained tannins that quickly coat the palate. Vibrant acidity and characteristic etch minerality holds on to the red fruit tightly as the other complex flavors linger.

Taste – Sweet and ripe red fruit including red cherry, tart raspberry and other ripe and tart berries blend with a touch of citrus. Spice and a touch of pepper, black licorice and green herbs follow in succession and are supported by a zesty mineral and tar component, floral violets and toasted oak.

Finish – Extremely long and warm with the textured tannins, acidity and minerality lasting and lasting as hints of the red fruit and other complex flavors slowly fade.

Conclusion – The 2004 Conti Boca DOC Nebbiolo Blend is quite a remarkable wine with all the character you’d expect from Nebbiolo in its adolescence but the addition of Vespolina and Bonarda Novarese providing notes of sweetness and warmth that balances the fantastic etched mouth feel. Even at eight years old, this wine is youthful and will cellar for ten to fifteen years, so if enjoying this wine now, be sure to let it open up or decant it. Pair with classic Piedmontese cuisine, creamy risottos and anything with truffles.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Boca DOC can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Robert James Lynch Bodaeceia Red Bordeaux Style Blend

Mission Codename: Queen of the Iceni

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit or friend Bob Lynch from Irish Monkey Cellars and bring you his fantastic personal labeled Bodaeceia Bordeaux Style Red Blend.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Robert James Lynch

Wine Subject: 2007 Bodaeceia Red Bordeaux Style Blend

Winemaker: Bob Lynch

Backgrounder: Bordeaux wines are usually a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet France, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere. In France and in California’s versions, perfection is achieved with the perfect balance of these grapes highlighting each varietal’s characteristics. Today’s 2007 Bodaeceia Red Bordeaux Style Blend is a delicious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec with a little Mouvedre mixed in for ‘poetic’ purposes.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Extremely dark and dense purple, nearly black from some angles, but ruby red reflections shine though it’s clear but dense heart. Along the edges the color pales only slightly to purple-ruby. When swirled, this wine initially leaves evenly spaced broad legs those are followed by slower thin legs that hang on the side of the glass.

Smell – Bountiful black and red fruit aromas of blackberry, cherry, cassis, currants and plum are framed by spice and pepper as well as toasted oak and licorice notes. Hints of dark cocoa, exotic spice and even floral hints hide just underneath the rich spicy fruit.

Feel – Warm and generous, this rich full-bodied and dry wine expands over the palate with finely grained but present tannins. A touch of mineral texture and rustic tangy acidity holds everything together into the finish.

Taste – All the dark fruit from the nose is boldly leads the way on the palate with jammy and ripe blackberry, dark cherry and other dark berries blending with exotic spice, pepper and toasted oak. As the initial round of dark fruit fades, red fruit follows with sweet cocoa and floral notes.

Finish – Long and generous with the ripe, rich and jammy fruit lasting and lasting. Hints of spice, cocoa, rustic texture and oak linger on and invite another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Robert James Lynch Bodaeceia Red Bordeaux Style Blend is not only delicious, but is also rustic and fun to drink. Serious enough to please the enthusiast but still warm and approachable to enjoy in big gulps. A great wine to pair with your summer BBQ or to enjoy in front of your outdoor fire as the warm night lingers. Enjoy this wine tonight after letting it open for about 45 minutes or cellar for the next five years.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Irish Monkey Cellarswhere this wine can be found can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Adobe Road Mendocino County Grenache

Mission Codename: The Jealous Crown

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Adobe Road Winery, where Agent Red first tasted their 2007 Grenache six months ago. He loved the wine, then, so have him reexamine it to see if it is ready for our very demanding Operatives. If the wine is even better than is was on first tasting, have Red secure an ample allotment.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Adobe Road Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Mendocino County Grenache

Winemaker: Michael Scorsone

Backgrounder: Grenache, one of the most widely planted grapes in the world, is most famous for its use as the primary grape in France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A late ripening grape, it grows best in hot, dry climates. It is generally considered to be a spiced, berry-flavored grape that is somewhat soft on the palate.

The Mendocino AVA, located along the Russian River and highway 101 north of Sonoma County is where the grapes for this delicious Cabernet Sauvignon were grown. The actual AVA is centered between Hopland and Ukiah in the southern third of the county and are heavily influenced by the climate which is regulated by the mountain ridges that surround the upper Russian River. The deep alluvial and gravelly loam soils also contribute to the flavor profile of the grapes grown in the region. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are the primary grapes grown in this region but, in hotter pockets of the AVA, Grenache thrives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful, shimmering ruby hues, from the pure ruby core of the wine, out to the glinting ruby edges. That’s a lot of ruby, yes, but you’ll see what we mean when you hold this shimmering wine up to the light. After a good swirl, wave after wave of skinny legs run slowly down the glass.

Smell – Sweet and softly spiced, with blueberry, red cherry and dried cranberry out in front. Cherry cordial candy, young strawberry, dried blackberry, cocoa and a hint of sweet cedar.

Feel – Cool and light across the tip of the tongue. Then, the wine quickly becomes plush and medium bodied, gaining in dimension as it lands on the mid-palate. After a few moments, fine-grained tannins give the wine a softly dry, slightly grippy feel. Gradually, the cheeks and lips become dry and a flinty flavor and feel appear.

Taste – Delicious, red, juicy and intriguing, led by softly spiced cherry, dark red plum skin, dark red flower petals, cranberry and red currant. Just behind these,forresty wildberry, bramble, soft lather, spice and minerals provide flavors that prop up the red fruits.

Finish – Red fruit and earthen flavors linger for a long time. As they fade, a distinct and intriguing flinty minerality appears at the back of the palate, and spreads forward. Eventually, flint spreads to the lips and cheeks, delivering a slight hint of cracked pepper spiciness to the tip of the tongue.

Conclusion – Goodness, but we just love this 2007 Mendocino County Grenache from our good friends at Adobe Road Winery. We first tasted the wine about six months ago and we really enjoyed it, then. Recently, though, we had an updated tasting – and decided that we had to show this wine to our Operatives. Where many a California Grenache can have a somewhat astringent quality to it, this wine shows much more fruit and suppleness on the palate. Flavors are big and red and juicy and the feel is quite plush. The finish is really quite intriguing, with fruit that fades slowly, leading to a distinctive flinty flavor that spreads around the palate, ultimately driving a hint of freshly cracked pepper right to the tip of the tongue. We are really crazy about this very summer-ready, food-friendly wine and it easily earns our solid recommendation.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The approximate location of the Adobe Road tasting room, in the heart of the town of Sonoma, California, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Vergari Wine Marin County Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Calling Agent Elvis!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Vergari Wines, a Wine Spies Operative favorite, and secure the newest vintage of David Vergari’s delicious and unique Marin County Pinot Noir, a 93-point (Wine & Spirits Magazine) stunner.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Vergari Wines

Wine Subject: 2008 Pinot Noir – Marin County

Winemaker: David Vergari

Backgrounder: We first featured a fantastic Marin County Pinot Noir from Vergari, back in early 2011. Our Operatives loved the wine, buying it in record numbers and returning to the winery, itself, to purchase more. Today, we are thrilled to feature the worthy successor to that wine. David Vergari’s brilliant 2008 has garnered much attention, including a stellar 93-point score. If you haven’t tasted David Vergari’s Marin County Pinot Noit, please be sure to try this special wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – When viewed from the side, the wine appears dark ruby red. Viewed from the top, it shows more clear and light, with a dark pink hue. At the edge of the glass, a fin ring of light pink encircles the wine. After you spin the wine, short, chubby legs take a very long time to appear before slowly running downward to the wine below.

Smell – Spiced cherry candy and young strawberry mingle with dried violets, young blackberry, Bing cherry, cranberry and flinty gunpowder. Underneath, soft cedar, tomato stem and dried leaves round out the nose.

Feel – Light and softly grippy at the tip of the tongue, the wine quickly settles onto the entire palate, introducing a flinty dryness that spreads gradually wound the mouth. Bright acids and soft tannins frame the fruit beautifully.

Taste – Bright and balanced, leading off with spiced cherry, young strawberry, tart cranberry and red plum. The fruit is balanced against earthy dried flowers, flint, subtle dried herbs and cedar. At the very end, a white pepper appears, driving flavors to the far corners of the palate.

Finish – Very long and full of lingering red fruit flavors. Fruit gives way to more earthy delights and as these all begin to tail off, an intriguing white pepper feeling appears, driving flavors even more deeply onto the palate.

Conclusion – Unique, intriguing and oh, so delicious, this is one Pinot Noir that you won’t want to miss. Wine & Spirits Magazine gets it right when they declare, “One of the Top Pinots of the Year” and award the wine a stellar 93-point score. This wine is bright, juicy, tender and delicious. It is the perfect compliment to a great meal, and our tasting panel also found it to be a fantastic Summer solo sipper. It is terrific all on its own. From initial sip, to the intriguing, driving finish, this wine is an exciting treat. Once again, David Vergari (who we call “Agent Elvis”) has crafted another Pinot Noir that is worthy of your table! This wine gets our hearty Wine Spies recommendation.

2004 Hawley Winery and Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: What happened to my socks?!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Hawley Winery and raid their secret archive. This time, retrieve their extraordinary Library Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine known for its depth, character and delicious flavors.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Hawley Winery

Wine Subject: 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Dry Creek Valley

Winemaker: John Hawley

Backgrounder: Winemaker John Hawley has been making wine for some of the most prestigious wine brands in industry. In 1996 he built his own winery in the hills above the fabled Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County. Today, John and his two sons handcraft small lots of exceptional wines that express the unique character of their region.

The Dry Creek Valley AVA in north eastern Sonoma (north of Healdsburg) county is somewhat warmer and wetter than the Russian River Valley AVA region just to the south and the Alexander Valley AVA just to the east. This warmer, wetter climate provides great versatility with regard to the types of grapes that can be effectively cultivated in the region.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest garnet with a deep and slightly inky core. The wine maintains even color, right out to the black cherry-colored edges. After a good swirl, tight clusters of skinny tears fall from high up on the glass wall.

Smell – Lush and full, with a rush of leathery black cherry, black raspberry and over ripe blackberry that just leap from the glass. As the wine breathes, it reveals additional aromas of black currant, softly toasted oak and warm brown spice.

Feel – Plush and medium-bodied across the tip of the tongue, the wine slowly grows in dimension, gaining weight and complexity as it settles onto the palate. A chewy feel then spreads around the plate and smooth tannins add a softly grippy plushness.

Taste – Juicy and dark and softly smoky, all at once, this delicious wine leads with black cherry, dark plum, blackberry and toasty oak. As you spin the wine, it opens up to reveal flavors of dark chocolate, leather, softest spice and a subtle hint of grilled fennel.

Finish – Darkly juicy and packed with flavors, fruit and earthy characteristics fade into a medium-long finish. At the very end, dark leather and Bing cherry sustain for even longer, mingling with a delicious, flinty black pepper.

Conclusion – Impressive! We have always really loved Hawley’s wines, but this 2004 Hawley Winery Cabernet Sauvignon really knocked our socks off. This wine is drinking so beautifully, right now, with plenty of bright red fruit, leather, spice and other earthy flavors. The feel in the mouth is elegant, satisfying and plush. Bright fruit makes this wine an easy food pairing companion. We’d recommend this wine with an herb roasted chicken or a garlic-rubbed grilled skirt steak, with grilled veggies and chocolate cake. This wine receives a hearty Wine Spies recommendation!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: John Hawley

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis, Fermentation Science 1980

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 1980 Preston Vineyards- Assistant Winemaker; 1981-1989 Clos du Bois- Winemaker; 1990-1996 Kendall-Jackson- Chief Winemaker; 1996-Present Hawley Winery- Winemaker

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Wine is more than the sum of its parts. It is an interaction between the people, the farming, the fruit and the processes that makes it something more than just fermented grape juice.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”No guts, no glory. That’s what I said last harvest when everyone was worried about the weather and picking grapes early. Grape growing is farming and you have to have a little faith that it’s all going to turn out alright, even if there is a rainstorm on the horizon and your Chardonnay still has two weeks to go.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: My first release under my own label was 1995 Merlot and 1996 Viognier released in 1997.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, John. We are thrilled to be showing your 2004 Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JOHN HAWLEY: Very good to be back with you, Agent Red.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JOHN: I grew up in a wine drinking family and started appreciating wines very young. My dad has always been a passionate wine enthusiast. On my 25th birthday he took me out to dinner and told me it was about time I decided what I was going to do with my life. I was a carpenter at the time and was ceramics major at university of Oregon. I told him I was considering transferring to UC Davis to study winemaking. I was interested in the science of fermentation; the chemistry and micro-biology. He said “Great! Let’s decide it right now then. You are going to be a winemaker.”

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JOHN: There are a number of French winemakers that I admire. Their wines fit my palate. I enjoy wines that are made to age and made to go well with food. Of all the greatest wines I have ever tasted, none of them were young wines. There are a lot of new wine style trends and technology, but the French figured it all out a long time ago and their techniques still make some of the best wines. I have always looked to adapt old French winemaking techniques to California fruit.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JOHN: I make wines to sell. I can’t drink that much wine myself. But I also make wines that I like. I feel that I have a pretty main-stream palate and wines that appeal to me tend to please most people’s palate. That is one of the reasons I was successful at Clos du Bois and Kendall-Jackson.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JOHN: Our Cabernet is planted on the steepest part of our estate on Bradford Mountain, overlooking Dry Creek Valley. We began farming organically in 2002 and do not use any chemical pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers in the growing of the grapes. The 2004 vintage is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JOHN: I think this wine would be awesome with grilled lamb. It is structured with a nice acidity and made to go with food. It is a wine that you can keep sipping and discovering new flavors and aromas.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

JOHN: I moved to Dry Creek Valley in 1977 and wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. The area has changed a lot since then. Healdsburg was pretty much a one horse town back then and now it is an international destination. What I think is special is that even with the development and hotels and four star restaurants, the area is still an agricultural based community and the town hasn’t lost its small town charm.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JOHN: I’ve been out in the vineyard for the last few days. We grow a cover crop in the winter to fix nutrients back into the soil, and now is the time to disc the plants back into the soil. I‘m the owner/winemaker, but I‘m also the main cellar rat and vineyard worker. I’m also a falconer and have been training my red tailed hawk, Breeze, to hunt out in the vineyard.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JOHN: I guess I just hope people approach wine with an interest and an open mind. If you like it, it’s good wine; and if you don’t, it’s not.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JOHN: It is important to know that my Bordeaux-style wines are extremely age-worthy and are meant to be bottle aged. Older bordereaux-style wines benefit from decanting. The 2004 is still improving but is tasting great right now. It can be aged for easily another five years. Part of the fun of wine is experiencing how they develop over time.
I also want to mention that although I’m the winemaker, I work closely with my two sons, Paul and Austin. They have been working with me for about five years now and they’re proving to be pretty good winemakers. I may even be able to retire someday.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Hawley Winery tasting room, in downtown Healdsburg, can be seen in this satellite photo.