Mission Codename: The Inaugural

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Agent White revisits VC Cellars in response to reports that winemaker, Miro Tcholakov, is covertly making wine for wineries other than Miro Cellars andTrentadue Winery.

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: VC Cellars

Wine Subject: 2005 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

The Dry Creek Valley across the Russian River from Alexander Valley has a generally cooler and wetter climate which makes the growing season longer and more flexible than neighboring appellations. This is an area well known for producing delicious Petite Sirah as well as other bold red grapes.

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and dense purple and nearly black when viewed from the side. When viewed from the top, the color remains dark but clear, with garnet and ruby tints. Along the edges, the garnet hues really shine though and when swirled thin legs of varying speeds ring the glass evenly.

Smell – Ripe and rich blackberry, plum and black cherry along with black, blue and red fruit lead the way with black pepper and other brown spices following suit. Just underneath the fruit are notes of toasted and smoky wood and dark earth.

Feel – Velvet smooth and warm on the palate, this full-bodied dry wine has finely grained and well developed sturdy tannins. Its textured minerality and balanced acidity makes this wine not only well structured but also grasps the fruit long into the finish.

Taste – Ripe and tangy blackberry, black cherry, dark plum on the palate, initially fruit forward but quickly balanced by its other complex flavors including black pepper, toasted oak, other hot and brown spice, dark earthy minerals and bittersweet chocolate.

Finish – This wine’s finish is lasting and persistent with the rich fruit lasting long as the smooth but textured tannins and minerals dry the tongue. Notes of pepper and spice also linger and beg for another sip.

Conclusion – There is a reason that Miro Tcholakov is one of our operative’s favorite winemakers, and the2005 VC Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirahshows all the care and quality he crafts into every bottle. Ripe and fresh on the nose with great fruit, spice and other flavors. A generous, smooth but sturdy mouth-feel and great fruit and complexity on the palate. A delicious wine that you can enjoy now or cellar for up to ten years. Pair this wine with grilled game meat, hearty winter stews or with a close friends in front of a warm fire.

Mission Report:

Please enjoy Agent Red’s interview withAgent KGB below.

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: February 4, 1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: So far I made my mark with Petite Sirah for the Miro brand, with my other jobs I have done very well with other varieties and blends. In general I’m very fond of perhaps the only two varieties that California has claim to fame as truly “heritage” –Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. But, I am so pleased with my inaugural Pinot Noir! It turned out beautifully.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country…

There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

AGENT RED: Greetings, Miro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 VC Cellars Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIRO TCHOLAKOV: Always a pleasure!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIRO: I don’t think that there was any specific event-wine has always been part of our life back in Bulgaria. We made every year about 1000 liters and manage to drink most of it before the next harvest. Wine has always been part of the life circle, just like making cheese or jam or tomato sauces. We also made grappa every year. My grandfather Mariano was the initial inspiration and the first hand source of winemaking knowledge.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIRO: The real winemaking I learned during my first years at Dry Creek. I’m not done with the learning by any means yet. Back in Bulgaria we made the wine in the most pure way possible. We rarely used even sulfur! No additives and none of the modern gadgets-just grapes and barrels.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MIRO: Don’t play with the wine just because you know how. Only intervene when you absolutely have to and you are sure of the outcome. Always pay attention to the details all the time. Everything you do to the wine-matters!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIRO: Well I don’t think there is just one person-it is more of a collective of people and styles. I do not believe that I have a particular style per say-I just try to get out of the grapes the most from every vintage-and that would be different every year.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

MIRO: Legally? Commercially –this harvest was my number 20!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIRO: I guess I can say that first I want to be satisfied with the wines I make and of course it will be great if a lot of people including media like them as well. Otherwise I’ll have a lot of wine to drink by myself…

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MIRO: It is a perfect example of this varietal: blackberry, opulent blueberry, plum and a hint of chocolate.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Short ribs and garlic.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

MIRO: Clay loam soil with a lot of rocks, warm days and cold nights.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MIRO: You have to love the job. If you are in it just 8 to 5 don’t even think about it. If the love and passion are not there you will be just a booze maker. Also you have to be willing to sacrifice a lot of time and long days and hours away from the family.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: Bottling, rocking barrels, monitoring malolactic fermentation.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

MIRO: I wanted to be a MD back in Bulgaria but my girlfriend talked me out of it.

RED: Thank goodness for us fans of your wines! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIRO: Rhone wines for sure. I even make one for a winemaker called Cuvee Sasha a GSM-simply delicious without all the pretense.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MIRO: Think of them as $100 bottle of wines and you will not be disappointed. I hate the cliché but they are “affordable luxury”.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MIRO: I would like to try again the 1927 Château D’yquem.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MIRO: Have I been connected to KGB? The answer is –perhaps!

RED: Our intel reports were correct, then! Thank you so much for your time, Miro. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MIRO: Thank you! Wine Spies days are always very exciting around here. Your customers are well-informed – and they know good wine.

Mission Codename: Certainly NOT Un-Rully

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit the Côte Chalonnaise commune of Rullyand retrieve a delicious Red Burgundy.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Christian Belleville

Wine Subject: 2009 ‘Les Chauchoux’ Rully AOC Red Burgundy

Backgrounder: The village commune of Rully, the northernmost appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise. It is one of the best regions for delicious Chardonnay and is also well regarded for Pinot Noir in the area and has an excellent reputation for flavorful and serious wines. The AOC was formally designated in 1939 and there are 23 Premier Crus but not one Grand Cru in the appellation.

The region is well known for its unique soil composition of white limey marl and calcic limestone, Jurassic gravel and rock and red clay. Also the vines grown in Rully are grown at an elevation of from 750 to 1100 feet above mean sea level.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Bright and glistening ruby red with sparkling ruby streaks in its crystal clear core. The bright ruby color extends to the very rim lass and when swirled, widely spaced fat legs are randomly spaced around the edge of the glass.

Smell – Fresh and ripe red fruit including red cherry and strawberry leading the way with redolent floral, spice and soft toasted oak aromas that include notes of cola, vanilla and both exotic and brown spice.

Feel – Velvet smooth and fresh on the palate with racy acidity and medium firm but supple tannins generously expanding over the palate with a soft touch of mineral texture.

Taste – Ripe, sweet and tangy red cherry, strawberry, raspberry followed by slightly more tart versions of the same fruit are followed by the layers of other complex flavors including spring flowers, brown spices, cola and toasted oak.

Finish – Clean, fresh and medium long in length with the tangy red fruit lasting as the other complex flavors linger. The supple tannins and racy acidity linger on the tongue and invite another sip.

Conclusion – The 2009 Domaine Christian Belleville ‘Les Chauchoux’ Rully AOC is a delicious and fresh Pinot that bridges the gap between French styles and the newer American fruit forward style without sacrifice. Fresh and ripe fruit on the nose and a well structured palate blend with a slightly fruit forward flavor profile making this wine great for food. Enjoy this wine tonight or cellar for the next five years to see how it evolves. A nice wine to pair with pork whether roasted, grilled or barbecued.

Mission Report:

Agent White has been reported as A.W.O.L. and last seen just outside Beaune sipping wines at a cafe and enjoying local food and culture.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Rully commune south of Beaune and northwest of Chalon-sur-Saone can be seen in thissatellite photo.

Mission Codename: Home & History

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of a library Cabernet from our new friends at Collier Falls.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Collier Falls

Wine Subject: 2002 Hillside Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Backgrounder:

The Dry Creek Valley across the Russian River from Alexander Valley has a generally cooler and wetter climate which makes the growing season longer and more flexible than neighboring appellations. This is an area best known for producing rather incredible Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot as well as other red varietals.

Today’s limited release Cabernet selection is 97% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Estate Cabernet Franc & Petit Verdot and was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels after an extended fermentation and maceration.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and beautiful garnet with a dense but clear heart. Along the edges the color shines through a deep garnet and when swirled, this wine leaves alternating fast thin legs as well as slower slightly thinker legs on the side of the glass. Some sediment settles on the cork and in the glass.

Smell – Ripe and rich blackberry, cassis and a distinct red and black cherry aroma are framed by cedar cigar box, toasted and smokey notes and soft developed spice. Soft notes of black licorice, green herbal and pepper and earth adds to the complex and fruit forward nose of this wine.

Feel – Rich, smooth and warm on the palate with finely textured and developed tannins leading the way and followed by a touch of minerality and acidity that lingers on the tongue.

Taste – Rich, ripe and generous cassis, cherry and other dark fruit linger with the cedar box and other wood aromas found on the nose. The black licorice, green herbs, spice and earth meld with notes of bittersweet chocolate.

Finish – Medium in length and clean with the fruit fading first followed by the other complex flavors. The finely textured tannins and mineral feel linger for quite a bit longer as just hints of the fruit cling on the tongue.

Conclusion – The 2002 Collier Falls Hillside Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is rich, plush and smooth wine that is drinking very well right now. If your a fan of plush Cabernet then this wine is a perfect choice at an unbelievable price. A great wine for burgers, tips or skirt steak. Enjoy this wine right now or cellar for the next couple years, but don’t wait too long, this wine is hitting its strive right now. Be sure to let this wine fully open to reveal all its aromas and flavors.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

Collier Falls wines can be tasted at the Family Wineries of Dry Creek Tasting Room and can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Opportunities won

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Churchill Cellars, makers of some of our favorite small-production Pinot Noir. This time around, evaluate their newest, budget-minded Pinot, the 2008 Two Vineyard Blend Pinot Noir. Secure an ample allotment for our Pinot-loving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Churchill Cellars

Wine Subject: 2008 Two Vineyard Blend Pinot Noir – Sonoma Coast

Winemaker: Anthony Austin

Backgrounder:

We first featured Churchill Cellars Pinot Noir nearly five years ago. We fell in love with Ken Churchill’s Pinots, then, and we’ve been eagerly awaiting their return to our pages. For today’s wine, Agent Red returned to Churchill Cellars to evaluate Ken’s newest release, the budget-friendly 2008 Two Vineyard Blend Pinot Noir from two special vineyard sources in the Sonoma Coast Appellation. Agent Red loved the wine and he was able to retrieve a small number of cases for our Operatives. Read Red’s mission report and tasting notes, below.

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the 750 square mile area with the Pacific ocean on its western boundary, the San Pablo Bay to the south and Mendocino County to the north, headed inland to the other designated AVAs in Sonoma County. The region is heavily influenced by the cooler ocean climate, increased rainfall and fog that lingers long on the coastal mountains. The specific climate suits the demanding Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay very well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Perfect ruby red hues, with completely even coloration from core on out to the ruby edge of the wine. When swirled, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind short, branching columns of skinny legs that move swiftly down the glass.

Smell – Bright and vibrant, with cherry, brambly raspberry, young strawberry, spiced blackberry with hints oak, forest floor and kola nut.

Feel – Soft and round on the attack. Then, quickly, the wine becomes softly weighty and mouth-filling, with a bright acidity that makes the mouth water. Supple tannins and a soft minerality give the wine a soft complexity.

Taste – Bright red cherry, earthy raspberry, bramble, young strawberry, dried red flower petals, subtle forest floor and kola nut.

Finish – Long, bright and mouthwatering, with flavors that start sweet and then go softly tart and softly spicy, with brown spice, chalky mineral and a hint of black pepper. At the very end, a soft dryness spreads to all corners of the palate, reminding you to take another flavor-filled sip.

Conclusion – Prepare to be impressed by this bright, juicy, delicious, approachable Pinot Noir! This is a juicy, bright and delicious wine that has plenty of flavor and character. Well-balanced, the bright red fruit is held in check by earthen components that make the wine complex – and interesting. Pair with a roasted chicken or a creamy pasta dish. Enjoy now, or lay some down for up to 5 more years. What ever you do, don’t miss out on this terrific wine!

Mission Report:

Sir Winston Churchill once said, “A fanatic is one who can’t change his mind and won’t change the subject.” It is almost as if he were speaking about Churchill Cellars and their relentless pursuit of Pinot perfection.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Anthony Austin

DATE OF BIRTH: November, 1951

PLACE OF BIRTH: Healdsburg, CA

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Vit/Enology, University of CA, Davis Post grad with Andre Telistcheff.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Asst Winemaker, Simi, Healdsburg; Winemaker/V.P. Enology/Viticulture, Firestone Vineyard; Winemaker/General Partner, Austin Cellars; Winemaker/partner, Sonoma Coast Vineyards.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Guidance, not manipulation, nature, not technology.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Pinot Noir.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: “Worlds best Chardonnay” MWLondon, 3 “Best of Show 3 years running (2 time “Best Red” , 1 time “best White”. Centeral Coast Wine Comp.) “Americas best Pinot Noir” , Wine and Spirits Buying Guide, 2Cordon Bleu Awards (only one other winery recieved 2) SoCal Wine and Food Society.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: First work as Head Winemaker by age 23, and it just gets better, though now I am doing 500 case lots, not 25,000.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Consumable art requires work on the part of the observer to truly enjoy. Preception requires focus.

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Anthony. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Churchill Cellars Two Vineyard Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ANTHONY: Thank you, Agent Red. It is great to be back with you.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ANTHONY: Not so much love of wine, rather LOVE of the ART of wine. Wine is many things, on many levels, a beverage, a food, and on that rare level, consumable art. Emote and it is art. So many wines are not that emotionally inspiring, many just beverages, and there is not enough there to “love”.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

ANTHONY: Most about the Science, UCD, most about elevating wine from beverage status, Andre Telistcheff, and inspired and inspiring Winemaster who would not accept good as enough. Most about my expression as winemaker from the 30+ years as winemaker.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

ANTHONY: Elegance is of utmost importance, balance is a requirement.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ANTHONY: See Andre Techelistcheff.

RED: I can’t tell you how many times we hear that! How long have you been making wine?

ANTHONY: First vintage as Winemaker, 1975

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ANTHONY: Foremost, myself, to be personally rewarding and artistically relevant, I am the first and only “conductor” to the wines, and therefore must have the freedom to realize the concept, vision, or interpretation of what that grape/barrel/billions of yeast and bacteria can work together to produce. The labels I make are CV, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Clouds Rest Pinot Noir, Grandpa Moses Cabernet Sauvignon.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

ANTHONY: The wine is a blend of two different vineyards. The Bella Sonoma Vineyard located near Cotati and my own Left Edge Vineyard located in Occidental. It was my vineyards first harvest.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ANTHONY: I would recommend paring the wine with duck, salmon or pork. It has a very nice minerality that is causes your mouth to water on the finish. So I think it is a really great food wine.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Sonoma Coast such a special place for Pinot Noir?

ANTHONY: Kosta Browne just won Wine of the Year with their 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. This recognition proves what I have been saying for a long time, that the best Pinot Noir fruit comes from the climatically challenged regions of the Sonoma Coast. That is why I moved back to Occidental from the Central Coast. I wanted to work with fruit from this region. I know this region will produce the best Pinots in the world.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

ANTHONY: If you love it, do it, forget about trading dollars for your time.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ANTHONY: The 2011 wines are still aging in the barrels and we will probably start bottling the Sauvignon Blanc and Roses from 2011 in April. The 2010 Pinots we will bottle in September. I usually age my red wines about 18 months before bottling.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

ANTHONY: “Everyday” to a winemaker is interesting. One of the great things about being a Winemaker is that “everyday” wine can and should be special.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

ANTHONY: beverages should be opened and consumed. Art should be anticipated, approached to maximize the wines potential and expression. Great wines, young or old should be opened to “breath” if not outright decanted. Proper stemware a must. Spend time with the wines, and for Pinot Noir especially, get the largest glass and pour what you are going to enjoy at that sitting, let the wine develop and open and ripen in the glass over the time you can.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

ANTHONY: Thank you, Agent Red! Enjoy the Pinot!!

Mission Codename: Oh, Seven!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Optima Winery, a long-time Wine Spies Operative favorite. Procure their 2007 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the fantastic successor to the previous vintages that we’ve showcased, here.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Optima Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Mike Duffy

Backgrounder: Today’s Cabernet Sauvignon comes to us from one of our favorite new wineries, Optima Winery, in Healdsburg. Grown in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, today’s wine is a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon from select premium vineyard sources

The Alexander Valley AVA in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest black cherry hues, with a darker, inky core. At the edge of the glass, a line of fine burgundy runs a fine ring around the wine. When swirled, the has a dense and springy look. When the wine settles, skinny legs glide slowly down the glass.

Smell – Bold and lush, with black cherry, currant, dried mission fig, blackberry and spicy toasted oak. As the wine opens up, softer aromas of bramble, dried fall leaves, bramble, clove and dried red flower petals begin to emerge.

Feel – Crushed velvet on entry, then big and weighty as the wine settles onto the mid-palate. Gradually, the wine takes on a dry and darkly mineral feel as structured tannins add complexity.

Taste – Bold, dark and complex with bold black fruit out in front. Black plum, blackberry, spiced blueberry and dried current takes the lead. Beneath these are black cherry, toasted oak, spice, dried black flower petals and espresso bean.

Finish – Very long and vibrant, with black fruit gradually giving way to the secondary flavors. As the wine dries the palate, spice, soft oak and minerals emerge.

Conclusion – The 2007 Optima Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a bold and darkly delicious wine that delivers a rich, concentrated and complex Cabernet experience. The Alexander Valley is home to vineyards that are composed of gravel, clay, and volcanic soils – and Optima does a fantastic job of getting the most from their grapes from this region. 2007 has been such a stunning vintage, and today’s wine is richer, darker and more bold than many of the Cabs from this vintage. Enjoy this big boy Cab with a well-marbled, grilled to perfection, steak!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mike Duffy

DATE OF BIRTH: May 1959

PLACE OF BIRTH: Oregon

WINE EDUCATION: Graduate of UC Davis in Enology

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: When I finished my Enology degree from UCD in 1981, I was already employed as the Assistant Winemaker at Trefethen Vineyards in Napa Valley. “I was very motivated to earn my degree and start working after being a broke college student for so long. I moved to Field Stone as winemaker in 1988, studying under the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff. For nine years, I worked full-time at Field Stone, saving weekends to tend to my own fledging winery, Optima.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. I know how busy you are right now, so I really appreciate the opportunity to talk with you – if even for a few scant minutes, today.

MIKE: My pleasure, Agent Red.

RED: Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIKE: Yes, I was raised around wine. My first job in High School was helping my parents, Bill and Della, at their wine shop, that is what sparked my interest. Later I played with making wine out of anything I could get out of my parents garden. I would take flats of strawberries, peaches and blackberries and craft them into wine. One time I even raided the rose bushes in the neighborhood so I could make a rose petal champagne

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIKE: UC Davis gave me an excellent technical background. It was the basis for my ability to solve problems when they arise. The experience of making wine came from getting in and getting dirty at my internship at Trefethen in 1980. That’s where it all came together for me. I have a unique work ethic and a strong mechanical background, both of which I have my father to thank for. Both those qualities served me well when I left the academic world and helped distinguish me from other classmates and co-workers.

RED: Great places to get your footing! What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIKE: Andre Tchelistcheff was the biggest influence on how I make Cabernet, and the greatest source of perspective, history and wine knowledge that I have been fortunate enough to have enjoyed. He approached the entire winemaking endeavor, from the vineyard in the spring, to harvest, and through barrel aging, as one integrated whole. I learned to take Alexander Valley Cabernet and to use its brilliant fruit as the basis for my wines. “Don’t bother making one of those huge Cabernets like many do in Napa, Mike. Anyone can make wines like those.” Andre would say. He inspired me to make a Cabernet that spoke to the virtues of Alexander Valley. A wine with an intense core of fruit and coco, balanced with vanilla and oak. Complex and powerful, yet subtle and soft. He also impressed on me the critical concept of not manipulating the wine, rather helping it become its best.

RED: You don’t know how many winemakers mention Andre as an influence! How long have you been making wine?

MIKE: Well one could say since I was a child but 2009 was my 30th harvest in Napa and Sonoma. I still enjoy the “seasonality” of winemaking.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIKE: I began making wine for my own creative satisfaction. I worked for several top wineries that produced Cabernet, and there was always some step in the process when I said to myself, “If this were my wine I would do this differently”. That need to satisfy my own creativity from beginning to end is why I started my own winery when I was 25. My approach to winemaking combines art and practicality. “I always liked the honesty and hard work of agriculture and to me, winemaking is the ultimate fusion of agriculture and art.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIKE: Like I said, we are in the thick of Harvest and it feels great, this is one of my favorite times of the year. When things slow down I hope to continue working on some old cars that I am restoring. I know that the two sound dissimilar, but a restoration embodies some of the same qualities needed to make great wine. Patience, attention to detail, craftsmanship and pride. When you finish restoring an old car, people can appreciate the quality and craftsmanship just by looking carefully. Wine is the same, but you’ve got to pop a cork.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIKE: I enjoy cooking; to me this is another form of taking an ingredient and using your creativity to make something incredible. My wife thinks I cook so well that she refuses to cook anymore. I love watching all of the cooking shows on TV, especially Iron Chef. I just can’t get enough, they are very inspiring.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIKE: I enjoy drinking a dry Gewurztraminer from Sonoma County, Anderson Valley, or from the Alsace region of France. It’s a wonderful wine that you can drink alone or with Thai, Asian or Mexican food all of which I enjoy cooking and eating. The best examples have a depth and a perfume that is unbelievable.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans. Your Alexander Valley Cab is stupendous!

MIKE: Thanks, very much, Red. Now, back to the grapes!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Alexander Valley vineyard where today’s exceptional wines was born can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Lucky Number 8

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Ottimino, a smash hit with our Zinfandel-loving Operatives. This time around, infiltrate their private library – and secure a stash of their best library Zin.

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Ottimino

Wine Subject: 2006 Zinfandel Ottimino Vineyard – Russian River Valley

Winemaker: William Knuttel

Backgrounder: Zinfandel is often aptly namedCalifornia’s grape. Its history and lore and the wines that result are often the makings of legend. In this case, Starry Night’s winemaker selected the best old-vine grapes from a number of the Russian River’s best vineyards, many of which have been planted for nearly 100 years. The Russian River Valley is ideally suited for red grape varietals. Its early morning fog and coastal breezes result in a cooler climate than the neighboring wine growing regions. For today’s wine, Agent Red returns to Ottimino, to bring you their delicious, single vineyard Russian River Zinfandel, a wine that is bursting with flavor.

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Russian River Valley Zins, which are characterized by their bold flavors, are among the most popular wines with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest garnet, with a dark and slightly opaque center. Coloration is evenly concentrated, right out to the burgundy edge of the wine. After swirling, skinny, wine-stained tears move down the glass in an achingly slow manner.

Smell – Lush and very fragrant, with sweet blackberry jam, dark cherry candy, blueberry pastry, blackberry bramble, cocoa dust and dried cherry. These are closely followed by sweet chocolate, sweet brown spice, soft oak and a hint of dried fall leaves.

Feel – Smooth, cool and light across the front-palate. Then, as it passed the mid-palate, it becomes gently grippy, plush and mouth-coating. A soft dryness then eases its way around the palate, leaving behind flint and bright spice. Structured medium tannins and balanced acidity contribute to the complexity of the wine.

Taste – Darker than the sweet nose would lead one to expect, this wine is still juicy, delicious and bursting with flavor. Earthen blackberry, black cherry juice, black plum, blueberry and dark chocolate lead the way. These delicious flavors are followed by black tea leaf, espresso bean, oak, brown spice and black pepper.

Finish – Ultra long and lingering, with dark fruit slowly giving way to the earthy components of dried leaves, oak and tea leaf. After these flavors tail off, minerals, spice and black pepper take longer to disappear.

Conclusion – Of all of the Ottimino Zinfandels we have showcased, this one is our very favorite! Their 2006 Ottimino Vineyard Zinfandel delivers true Russian River greatness, at a price that makes the wine even harder to resist. Sweet and juicy on the nose, this wine is a pleasure to simply inhale. Sip the wine and be pleasantly surprised to find that it drinks more darkly than the nose had suggested. The feel is plush, with a crushed-velvet appeal that our tasting panel really enjoyed. The more you spin this wine in the glass, the more it opens up, revealing additional aromas and flavors. Pair with zesty BBQ or a thick grilled steak with plenty of salt and pepper. A medium dark chocolate is also a delicious treat with this delicious Zin.

Mission Report:

Mission Codename: Galet’s Dream

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Galante Vineyards and acquire an allocation of their very exclusive “Ace High” Estate Malbec, a wine that is extraordinarily popular with the winery’s wine club members.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Galante Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2009 Ace High Malbec – Carmel Valley

Winemaker: Greg Vita

Backgrounder: For nearly five years, The Wine Spies have had the great honor to bring you the exceptional wines from Jack Galante’s namesake Galante Vineyards. With each successive vintage, we have experienced the continuous improvement and and growing quality of Jack’s wines. Today, we are very pleased to be you Jack’s very limited-production, Ace High Malbec. This wine is available in very limited quantity, with the majority of the wine allocated to Galante’s luck wine club members.

One of the six classic component varietals that go into a true French Bordeaux wine, Malbec (named for the Hungarian peasant who first brought the grape to France) is a thin-skinned grape that requires more time to mature than its Bordeaux brethren, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In America, where very little Malbec is grown, the wine is often used as a minority component of Meritage blends. While Argentina is, perhaps, best-known for producing exceptional examples of the varietal, increasingly, California wineries are becoming more skilled in extracting a unique, and delicious, expression of the grape. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Ruby red with a slight burgundy caste, in the right light. Color is slightly darker at the core and it lightens toward the edge. Spin the wine and marvel at the the seemingly endless cascade of wave after wave of skinny legs that descend from high up on the glass wall.

Smell – Sweet and spicy aromas jump from the glass, led by sweet red plum, cinnamon, clove and spiced cherry candy. These are closely followed by fresh soil, dark minerals, dark chocolate and violet petals.

Feel – Cool and light, initially. At the edges of the palate, the wine is soft and round. At the mid-palate, the wine settles in, adding a dry and grippy feeling the spreads a mineral-rich dryness to the corners of the mouth. Supple tannins and a bright acidity give the wine a complex feel that adds to its intriguing character.

Taste – Spicy, earthy, sweet black cherry is way out in front. This initial flavor is soon joined by dark plum, bramble, blackberry and sweet oak. As the wine opens, it also reveals hard leather and fresh soil.

Finish – Sweet and tart and softly spicy, this wine has a lovely, medium-long finish that is complimented by an earthy minerality at the tail end.

Conclusion – It is seemingly rare for us to feature a Malbec here, so when we do, you can be assured that we love it. Today’s example is a very approachable, delicious and nicely complex wine that delivers great flavors and an enticing, complex feel. The lush aromatics had our tasting panel spennding a long time just _inhaling) the wine before ever taking that first flavor-filled sip. If you are seeking a delicious wine that is just a bit out of the ordinary – without being completely obtuse, then we encourage you to sample this great wine. Pair as you would a Cabernet or a Merlot. We recommend a nice thick steak!

Mission Report:

For your enjoyment, what follows is our original mission to Galante Vineyards:

[note: be sure to read the following in your best cowboy voice]

Howdy Pardners! Agent Red here, reportin’ back from the range.

During a recent mission to infiltrate the notoriousGalante Gang, I was known simply as ’Red’.

Why me? Well, match up my love for great red wines with the time I spent playing Cowboys and Indians as a child – and it was only natural that Central Command should chose me for this mission.

It had been rumored that Galante produced some of the best Cabernets in the state so I was sent to investigate. I arrived at the Galante Ranch where I was greeted by Cowboy Winemaker, Jack Galante. I told Jack right off that I was new in town and wanted to join his Gang. He looked somewhat skeptical when he noticed my shiny penny loafers, but after he sized me up, he invited me in for a tasting. (Note to self: Pay better attention to my disguises!)

Jack poured me a glass of his Cabernet Sauvignon (shouldn’t he serve it in a tin cup?). What struck me first was this wine didn’t have the overpowering aromas of chili pepper usually found in the Cabs of the Monterey region. Rather, I found sandalwood, oak, cherry, currant and rose. This is an aromatic wine that’s not afraid to boast about its character.

After some very skillful cowboy style sniffing and yelling “YEE-HAW!”, I went in for a taste. I was impressed. This is a very bright and flavorful wine that has a big mouth feel, with medium tannins and big tastes of cherry and berry.

This wine certainly gets my personal recommendation and I’m pretty sure that we’ll feature other Galante wines here in the future. Pair it with free range gourmet like pan-seared baked beans, cactus fritters or even a fine tumbleweed stew.

For a real Cowboy Cabernet that can be served with real cuisine, you should pick up a bottle or two. This is a wine that is ready to drink now, but could peak in just a few years.

For a real pairing, we recommend a delicious Montana Legend steak

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Galante Vineyards vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: King Killian

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Chateau Souverain and secure an allocation of their flagship Cabernet, the gorgeous 2005 Winemaker’s Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that is totally sold out at the winery.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Chateau Souverain

Wine Subject: 2005 Alexander Valley Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Ed Killian

Backgrounder:

Today’s wine is made from choice vineyard sources that were hand-selected by master winemaker, Ed Killian. Mister Killian sought out the finest lots of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from his best vineyard sources, in order to craft today’s extraordinary wine.

The Alexander Valley, where today’s wine hails from, , is located in northeast Sonoma County, on the western side of the Mayacamas range. It extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep, dark garnet with a dense, darker heart. The color retains even concentration, right out to the very edge of the glass. After swirling, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind tall, thin, wine-stained tears that move slowly down the glass.

Smell – Lush and very aromatic, this wine leads with bold blackberry, candied dark cherry, cassis and dark chocolate. As the wine opens, it reveals additional aromas of boysenberry, blueberry, subtle cigar box, tobacco leaf, with hints of star anise, soft spice and black tea leaf.

Feel – A plush medium body is evident immediately. As the wine crosses the mid-palate, medium-fine tannins and a balanced acidity add a terrific intrigue as they do their part to drive dark flavors to the corners of the mouth.

Taste – Richly layered, leading with bold black cherry, overripe blackberry and dark plum. These are layered over sweet green tobacco leaf, brown spice, cigar box, cocoa dust and dried fall leaves.

Finish – Sweet and then tart as fruit flavors eventually morph into more earthen flavors. The finish goes way long, and eventually fruit and earthen character are replaced by mineral-laden dark spice, black pepper and flinty minerals. At the very end, a dry and slightly chewy feel persists for a long time.

Conclusion – A truly fantastic wine, the 2005 Chateau Souverain Winemaker’s Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is the sort of well-rounded gem that has something for any Cabernet fan; Dark, rich and bold fruit are tempered against softly earthen characteristics that add complexity and balance. This wine is ready to drink, now, and it will continue to improve for at least 7 more years. I know that we’ll be stashing some in our Top Secret wine cave. Pair this food-fantastic wine with a hearty red meat dish, lamb or a spicy grilled chicken. We’ll enjoy a bottle, all on its own, at our next gathering.

Mission Codename: Wine Is A Devotion

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional Barbaresco just in time for the holidays

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cascina Bruciata

Wine Subject: 2005 Barbaresco Rio Sordo DOCG

Winemaker: Francesco Baravalle

Backgrounder:

The wines of the Barbaresco DOCG are made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Nebbiolo, native to the Piedmont in north-west Italy and cultivated in the region since the 13th century is generally a softer more elegant wine than its heavier brethren Barolo. The late ripening Nebbiolo is known to be highly influenced by various soil and vineyard conditions, with the wines from the best vineyard sites having sublime character.

The Nebbiolo grapes in this wine, considered the greatest of all Italian grapes, must be aged for a minimum of two years, of which one year must be oak or chestnut barrels. Barbaresco has exceptional aging qualities with the best wines having 40+ years of potential. Both Barbaresco and Barolo are considered to be among the finest wines in Italy.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and deep ruby red with a clear dark ruby core. Along the edges, the color shows a slightly paler deep ruby red patina. When swirled, slow fat tears hang before slowly descending into thin legs to the wine below.

Smell – Bold and masculine in intensity with classic aromas of spiced and earthy black cherry and other dark berries, toasted spiced oak, black licorice, a touch of complex herbal notes and a hint of rose and violet petals.

Feel – Bright and tangy on the initial attack with highly textured etched minerality, firm tannins and vibrant acidity. As with all Barbaresco, give this full-bodied wine time to open and you’ll be greeted with a smooth and sublime experience that is 100% pure Piedmont.

Taste – Bright tart and ripe black cherry and other dark fruit flavors are layered and well integrated with complex notes of spiced toasted oak, a touch of licorice, earthy undertones, soft green herbal and floral components and a touch of rich cigar tobacco.

Finish – Ultra long with this wines highly textured and sturdy tannins gripping onto the palate for seemingly minutes as the spiced and earthy black cherry and other complex flavors slowly fade and beg for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Cascina Bruciata Barbaresco Rio Sordo DOCG, like the previous vintage we featured, is a truly exceptional example of the power and grace found in fine Barbaresco. This wine’s sublime aromatic complexity on the nose, depth on the palate is buttressed by its study but elegant structure. Certainly young to drink now (decant or let breathe for at least an hour), this wine will improve for at least a decade or more. Pair this wine with any classic Piedmonte cuisine, especially anything with truffles in it.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Francesco Baravalle

WINE EDUCATION: -Viticulture and Enology degree (2001 University of Turin)
-Sommelier degree (2008 Associazione Italiana Sommelier)

WINE JOB BRIEF: in addition to working in the Piedmont, I’ve spent three months in Margaret River (2003 Western Australia) and 4 years in Virginia making wine in the Monticello wine area (close to the city of Charlottesville).

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Apply the technologies to enhance and respect the personalities of each wine terroirs.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “wine is a devotion”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Barolo Bricco Rocche Prapo’ 2003 (2007).

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

Below is our recent interview with Francesco when we featured the previous vintage of this exceptional wine.

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Francesco. We are thrilled to be showing your 2004 Barbaresco Rio Sordo DOCG today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

FRANCESCO: Greetings to you!You are more then welcome, for me it is a great pleasure and honor to be part of this interview.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

FRANCESCO: My family in not into the wine business but I grew up going to vineyards during harvest time when my grandfather used to purchase grapes to make his own red wine. In addition, my dad is a great wine lover, so I’ve been educated to appreciate and respect wine.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

FRANCESCO: My stile is the Barolo and Barbaresco, I was born in Cuneo and I grew up surronded by this taste and flavors. I’m working now to understand more about this territory to get always the best expressions of it.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

FRANCESCO: I make wine for Cascina Bruciata, a little family owned winery located in one of the most prestigious crus of the Barbaresco DOCG area, the Rio Sordo

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

FRANCESCO: Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2004 is a wine that comes from a 45 years old vineyard located in the heart of the Rio Sordo. In 2004 the grapes where perfectly ripe and healty,the whole season was very balanced (sun vs rain) and the flavors we are aprreciating now are showing great elegance in a perfect balance with its mouthfull body. We realised this wine in 2009 after have been elevated for 24 months in french allier oak barriques, 1 year in stainless steel tank and 1 year in bottle. This wine can age in bottle for another 10 years easily.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

FRANCESCO: A structured wine requests a structured dish, I think it pairs wery well with pre-braised piedmontese veal marinated and cooked in Nebbiolo based wine (Barolo or Barbaresco).

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Piedmont so special?

FRANCESCO: Each wine from this region shows a very distinctive personality due to the hilly landscape and the ancient origin of the soil. Even inside the same cru you can find different expressions of the same style. The Nebbiolo grape in this area shows the highest quality with its unique aromatic profile.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

FRANCESCO: We are a small winery, so I do pretty much everything the season requests. Recently I’m spending a lot of time travelling to promote and explain what our territory is about. Spending time with people allows me to learn a lot and to share this “devotion” that I have for wine.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

FRANCESCO: The beauty of wine is not only the sensorial experience of tasting it, it is about knowing the tradition and culture of people and territory behind it. We have infinite sources of info through the internet, so I think when we decide to discover a wine, it would be interesting and fun to get some info about where it is from.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

FRANCESCO: When we taste a wine we are exposed to traditions, lifestyle and taste; this is a great way to increase a lot our culture on people and territories. It is a lot of fun!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

FRANCESCO: You are very welcome, thank you for letting me introduce my wine and region.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Cascina Bruciataand its vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mount Veeder Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Reserve Red – Napa Valley – Mount Veeder

Winemaker: Janet Myers

Backgrounder: Known for its ultra-premium Bordeaux varietal blends, Mount Veeder Winery takes the greatest care in tending its high-elevation fruit – leading to the creation of some rather extraordinary wines.

Mt. Veeder, located on the eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range has a climate that is cooler than the valley floor below. This climate and the more difficult (less fertile) volcanic mountain soil influence the flavors of the wines from this region. Best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, the region also produces Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay. The premium vineyards of the Mt. Veeder appellation produce grapes of exceptional character, density and intensity.

Today’s 2006 Reserve Red is a prefect blending of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, 4% Petite Verdot, 2% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest garnet, with a deepening, inky core. Color is evenly concentrated, right out to the thin band of pure ruby at the rim of the glass. After spinning the wine, skinny, wine-stained tears rush quickly down the inside of the glass.

Smell – Layered with sweet blackberry and spiced black cherry that leap from the glass. Just beneath these, additional aromas of blueberry, plum, dried dark flower petals, dark chocolate, bramble and soft cedar round out the complex nose.

Feel – Soft and cool at first, then immediately grippy and textured as the wine settles onto the mid-palate. Tannins are big, but so evenly integrated that the effect is plush, rather than coarse. Bright acids add balance and help to drive flavors to the far corners of the palate.

Taste – Rich and deep, with complex layers of dark fruit, sweet spice and earthen elements. Dark stone fruit, bramble, blackberry, cocoa powder and European black licorice lead the way. These are joined, closely, by cedar, subtle dark spice, black pepper, darkly toasted oak and chalky minerals.

Finish – Ultra-long, mouthwatering and delicious, with long-lingering fruit that starts dark and then goes more sweet then tart and sweetly spicy. At the very end, a mineral-rich dryness persists, remind you to take another flavorful sip.

Conclusion – Fantastic! I could end my review right there. Rich, delicious, aromatic, lush and really complex, this wine gets our heartiest recommendation. Be sure to decant for at least 30 minutes, to unleash fuller, juicier and more authentic fruit flavors. This wine is dark, to be sure, but bright fruit at the mid and back palate really bring balance. Enjoy this wine all on its own, or really make it sing by pairing it with a juicy grilled steak. Drinking just beautifully now, be sure to cellar a couple of bottles of this age-worthy wine for a few more years.

Mission Report:

Winemaker, Janet Myers, is especially busy this time of year, and she was unable to sit with us for an interview.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mt. Veeder Appellation in Napa can be seen in this satellite photo.