Mission Codename: Giovanni di Bernardone

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate a stellar Black Friday wine by infiltrating Franciscan in Napa Valley’s Oakville region and secure an ample cache of the wine for our well-deserving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Franciscan

Wine Subject: 2005 Franciscan Magnificat – Meritage – Napa Valley

Winemaker: Janet Myers

Backgrounder: The Oakville AVA, centrally located in the Napa Valley and adjacent to the famous Rutherford AVA, was established in July, 1993. Oakville is considered one of the most diverse AVA’s in the Napa area.

Franciscan winery, located in the Oakville AVA, has been crafting its distinctive wines with extraordinary care, elegant style and finesse since 1985.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful deepest garnet and perfect ruby red when swirled in the light. This wine maintains deeply concentrated color through to its edges. With a deeper core and a softly bouncy surface that settles quickly after swirling, this wine exhibits tightly packed skinny legs that take a few moments to emerge before they move very steadily down the glass.

Smell – Deep and aromatic with lush fruits of dark blackberry, dark cherry, dark plum, dark chocolate, fresh sage, subtle black pepper, and soft black tea leaf.

Feel – Velvety smooth, beautifully round, and softly creamy at the front of the palate, then slowly mouth-coating and rich with lush, soft tannins that fade slowly.

Taste – Perfectly balanced light and dark fruit flavors, featuring delicious dark cherry, blackberry, cassis, and plum with emerging flavors of dark chocolate powder, soft spice, soft oak, and a subtle smoky blueberry.

Finish – Dark, fruity, long, and clean that tails off smoothly, while continuing to reveal new flavors as it tapers off over a lengthy amount of time.

Conclusion – We could not have selected a more appealing and more delicious Franciscan wine for today’s Black Friday special. With a gorgeous feel and aromas and flavors that inspire rather than over-power, this delicious wine is a wonderful treat and a food-friendly compliment to your holiday entertaining. Be sure to hold on to a few bottles for yourself! This wine gets a very hearty Wine Spies recommendation!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Janet Myers

DATE OF BIRTH: 04/64

PLACE OF BIRTH: Centralia, Illinois

WINE EDUCATION: M.S. Enology and Viticulture, University of California, Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Director of Winemaking, Franciscan Estate and Mount Veeder Winery. Previous experience with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Beaulieu Vineyards, Louis M. Martini Winery, and Robert Mondavi Winery.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To make wines that are rich, balanced, supple, food-friendly, and show varietal character and place of origin.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: The chance to make wine with great fruit from many vineyards.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”It’s all about what’s in the glass. As a winemaker, take the wine very seriously, but don’t take yourself too seriously.”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Janet. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Magnificat today. I am in love with the wine! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Thank you, Agent Red, it’s great to be here and share a bit about the wine.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: I was in London, living above a wine shop and getting to taste a lot of great wines, and also working in restaurants serving wine. This got me interested. But while traveling in Italy, where my mom’s parents are from, the vineyards and wineries fascinated me and I became focused on winemaking. The stars lined up, and I realized I could pursue a field that combined agriculture, food, flavors, science, and history.

RED: Where did you learn the most about winemaking?

WINEMAKER: The tools to understand what is going on in the wine were gained from UC Davis, a great foundation. But learning to make wine happens in the winery, you learn by doing, building on the practical knowledge that accumulates with each vintage. When I started out, I did back-to-back harvests in Italy and Australia. Such different approaches, but both made great wine; it was really an eye-opener.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

WINEMAKER: To make balanced wines, with vibrancy and complexity, to stay true to the varietal character, and strive to bring the best out of the grapes. Tailor the approach to what the wine needs, use intuition, and don’t try to turn it into something it’s not.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: All wines interest me, the range of personality between varietals and styles. Napa Cabs and their depth and complexity are inspiring. Over my career, experiencing different winemakers with different approaches has grounded me.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: Just finished my 17th harvest.

RED: That’s impressive. Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: For our consumers, ultimately. The winemaker has a vision of the wine he or she wants to make that will bring out the best potential of the fruit. That said, wine is made to be consumed, so you think about enhancing consumers’ experiences, complementing their meals. I strive to make wines that I love, that people will enjoy, and that respect the tradition and style of the winery.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa region so special?

WINEMAKER: A great combination of soil and climate. This is Cabernet spa treatment, with intense, warm summer days to build structure and richness, and cool nights to maintain vibrancy and deep color. No rain between May and October is a major bonus.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WINEMAKER: Work in a cellar to try it out. Keep an open mind, trust yourself. Be flexible and be prepared for anything!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: Finishing getting the 2009 reds to barrel, which are delicious, and working on the new 2009 Sauvignon Blanc blend and the 08 Cuvee Sauvage Reserve Chardonnay, both of which will bottle after the holidays. There is always something exciting to work on.

RED: You’ll have to keep us covertly informed as to how those are progressing! Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: Our Magnificat wine is one of the original Meritage blends. We start with over 200 barrel lots from individual vineyard blocks, and make the best Bordeaux blend of the vintage, building off of our Oakville Estate Vineyard. The blend varies year to year, this one is 73% Cab, and has all five major Bordeaux varietals in it. It is rich and textural, with layers of cassis and mocha.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: It’s really versatile and works with many savory dishes: a steak, pork chops, duck, even barbecue. My personal philosophy is that if you like a wine, it will go well with a lot of things.

RED: Perfect, I just picked up a few steaks to enjoy with one of my other bottles! Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

WINEMAKER: I grew up around my parents’ and grandparents’ fruit orchard operation in Southern Illinois, apples and peaches, which gave me a love of the land and farming. It was a great way to grow up.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WINEMAKER: There isn’t just one, it depends on what we’re eating. We do drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc, then Chard for richer dishes, Rieslings for Indian and Asian. For a red, Cabernet is the go-to wine by far, but Pinot Noir is a wonderful counterpoint for a completely different experience.

RED: Sound like a good, balanced approach to playing favorites. Tell me, how would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WINEMAKER: Overall, the most important thing is to drink what you enjoy, and pair it with foods as you see fit. Trust your palate. Try new things, but don’t feel like you have to “move on” or “move up,” it’s ok to stick with your favorites. Don’t let anyone tell you what you should like.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WINEMAKER: There are so many I enjoy, but probably I’d go with a Cabernet or Cab blend.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WINEMAKER: Question: Could you talk about your vineyards and what they bring to the wine? Answer: The heart and soul of our red wines comes from our Oakville Estate Vineyard, 240 acres which we’ve been farming for 35 years (ever since Justin Meyer established it as our estate vineyard). Having that continuity helps ensure consistency across vintages. Years ago, Andre Tchelistcheff observed that it was a great place for Bordeaux varietals, and we’ve been doing that ever since. We also have 20 prime Chardonnay acres in Carneros, the Larsen Vineyard, which provides the backbone of our wild-yeast fermented Cuvee Sauvage. I love the firm acidity and vibrancy, which complements a reserve style Chard with the creaminess and richness of barrel fermentation.

RED: Andre is something of a hero of ours. And now, so are you! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WINEMAKER: Thanks, it was a pleasure. Enjoy the wine. Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Franciscan can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Grand Traditions

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a very special Grand Cru Burgundy in honor of Thanksgiving Day

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Tortochot

Wine Subject: 2005 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Winemaker: Gabriel Tortochot

Backgrounder:

Charmes-Chambertin is one of the nine Grand Cru vineyards in the Gevrey-Chambertin region of the Cote de Nuits. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the vineyards and lies to the south of the region, just east of the Route des Grand Crus (N74). The southern most portion of the vineyard is now referred to as Mazoyeres. These wines are known for showcasing Pinot Noir in its most pure form with ripe fruit and soft and elegant but still solidly structured.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and beautifully dark ruby red and burgundy with ruby and violet hues through its dark but clear core. Along the edges the color lightens slightly to a lighter ruby and when swirled, slow thin, but widely spaced legs creep down to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity, this elegant wine shows deeply integrated aromas of red cherry, floral violets, subtle spice and a hint of bramble over a base of toasted oak, funky earthiness and subtle chalky minerality.

Feel – This full-bodied wine has a muscular framework but, does so with elegance. And iron fist in a velvet glove, perhaps. Dry with silky but firm tannins and bright but balanced acidity and exceptional minerality linger for an eternity into the finish.

Taste – Exceptionally pure Pinot Noir flavors of red fruit, including red cherry along with subtle spice and earthiness. A chalky minerality that is both felt and tasted lingers over the palate with layers of floral violet, herbal notes and oak. Sublime in its integration.

Finish – Exceptionally clean and long with a textural quality that clings to the palate, making the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is a delicious and exceptional example of one of the world’s finest wine-growing regions. It is almost a shame to have tasted and reviewed this wine now, as its true potential lies a decade into the future. Finesse on the nose; bold and muscular, but not overbearing on the palate; elegance and purity in its flavors; and a finish that leaves you yearning for more. What else could you want? Allow this wine to open up and breathe for 30-60 minutes if enjoying it now, but if possible save a couple bottles for the future.

Mission Report:

Agent White on the Route des Grand Crus, France.
True identity concealed.

Below is a recap of Agent White’s and Blush’s recent visit to Burgundy.

… East Central France …

We began the day early as we wanted to hit the Route des Grand Crus with lots of time to enjoy the food and especially the wine. Zipping through the back roads from our safe house in Bar Sur Aube(south end of the Champagne region) to Dijon at this hour was fast but just outside of Dijon, we started to hit the normal business day traffic. Thankfully, the GPS devise in my handheld spy communicator quickly re-routed us around and soon we were headed south through some of the finest vineyards in all of Burgundy.

The N74, or Route de Dijon as its known officially but wine aficionados know this as the Route de Grand Crus. We slowed down and started taking it all in. The names of each commune and village familiar to anyone who has spent time in the French section of a good wine shop. The vineyards, this time of year, bare, with a slight fog resting in the lower valleys, and along the tops of the hills to the west. A slight drizzle fell creating an almost surreal experience as the fog and low clouds moved with the weather exposing and then rehiding these prized vineyards.

After our lunch in Beaune, Agent Blush and I had the chance to explore some of the smaller communes that overlooked the valley and in particular, the historic Gevrey-Chambertin with is many Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. Gevrey-Chambertin is located just a few miles south of Dijon. The wines from here are truly representative of the finesse and elegance that Burgundy is known for.

Quite simply, this is the life. While you may not have been able to join us on the Holiday in Beaune, today’s selection from Domaine Tortochot will at least give you a small bit of the flavor of the trip!

A votre sante!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Charmes-Chambertin can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Eternal Optimist

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a limited allocation of the operative requested 2005 Optima Wine Cellars Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Optima Wine Cellars

Wine Subject: 2005 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: Mike Duffy

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, which are characterized by their balanced flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful dark purple with garnet hues that reflect just a little light through its dense but clear core. Along the edges the color remains a deep garnet and when swirled slow fat legs thin as they gain momentum and fall to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity with redolent ripe raspberry and cherry intermingle with subtle floral notes and green chili pepper. Smokey oak, earth, vanilla and spice along with a touch of herbal bramble lie just underneath the spicy fruit.

Feel – Rich and smooth, the dry full-bodied wine has fine but textured tannins and minerality mix with its vibrant acidity and holds the fruit into the finish as it spreads over and coats the entire palate.

Taste – Ripe raspberry and blackberry and other dark dried berry flavors integrate with smokey and toasted oak. Spicy green chili and a touch of black peppercorn adds a kick as hints of baking spice, vanilla and mocha dark chocolate intermingle with bramble for good measure.

Finish – Long with lingering fruit as the spice, oak and earthiness taper off leaving ripe blackberry and raspberry flavors that beg for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Optima Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is a classic Dry Creek. Great vivid ripe raspberry on the nose and the palate, spice and pepper with hints of bramble interlace. A great wine at this price. We recommend decanting or letting this wine breathe before serving and certainly be sure to keep a few bottles in the cellar to see how this wine evolves over the next several years. We predict very good things!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mike Duffy

DATE OF BIRTH: May 1959

PLACE OF BIRTH: Oregon

WINE EDUCATION: Graduate of UC Davis in Enology

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: When I finished my Enology degree from UCD in 1981, I was already employed as the Assistant Winemaker at Trefethen Vineyards in Napa Valley. “I was very motivated to earn my degree and start working after being a broke college student for so long. I moved to Field Stone as winemaker in 1988, studying under the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff. For nine years, I worked full-time at Field Stone, saving weekends to tend to my own fledgling winery, Optima.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

Below is Agent Red’s recent interview with winemaker Mike Duffy.

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. I know how busy you are with harvest right now, so I really appreciate the opportunity to talk with you – if even for a few scant minutes, today.

MIKE: Yeah, we have been plenty busy. We crushed thirty tons of grapes today!

RED: Wow. Again, thanks. Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIKE: Yes, I was raised around wine. My first job in High School was helping my parents, Bill and Della, at their wine shop, that is what sparked my interest. Later I played with making wine out of anything I could get out of my parents garden. I would take flats of strawberries, peaches and blackberries and craft them into wine. One time I even raided the rose bushes in the neighborhood so I could make a rose petal champagne

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIKE: UC Davis gave me an excellent technical background. It was the basis for my ability to solve problems when they arise. The experience of making wine came from getting in and getting dirty at my internship at Trefethen in 1980. That’s where it all came together for me. I have a unique work ethic and a strong mechanical background, both of which I have my father to thank for. Both those qualities served me well when I left the academic world and helped distinguish me from other classmates and co-workers.

RED: Great places to get your footing! What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIKE: Andre Tchelistcheff was the biggest influence on how I make Cabernet, and the greatest source of perspective, history and wine knowledge that I have been fortunate enough to have enjoyed. He approached the entire winemaking endeavor, from the vineyard in the spring, to harvest, and through barrel aging, as one integrated whole. I learned to take Alexander Valley Cabernet and to use its brilliant fruit as the basis for my wines. “Don’t bother making one of those huge Cabernets like many do in Napa, Mike. Anyone can make wines like those.” Andre would say. He inspired me to make a Cabernet that spoke to the virtues of Alexander Valley. A wine with an intense core of fruit and coco, balanced with vanilla and oak. Complex and powerful, yet subtle and soft. He also impressed on me the critical concept of not manipulating the wine, rather helping it become its best.

RED: You don’t know how many winemakers mention Andre as an influence! How long have you been making wine?

MIKE: Well one could say since I was a child but 2009 will be my 30th harvest in Napa and Sonoma. I still enjoy the “seasonality” of winemaking.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIKE: I began making wine for my own creative satisfaction. I worked for several top wineries that produced Cabernet, and there was always some step in the process when I said to myself, “If this were my wine I would do this differently”. That need to satisfy my own creativity from beginning to end is why I started my own winery when I was 25. My approach to winemaking combines art and practicality. “I always liked the honesty and hard work of agriculture and to me, winemaking is the ultimate fusion of agriculture and art.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIKE: Like I said, we are in the thick of Harvest and it feels great, this is one of my favorite times of the year. When things slow down I hope to continue working on some old cars that I am restoring. I know that the two sound dissimilar, but a restoration embodies some of the same qualities needed to make great wine. Patience, attention to detail, craftsmanship and pride. When you finish restoring an old car, people can appreciate the quality and craftsmanship just by looking carefully. Wine is the same, but you’ve got to pop a cork.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIKE: I enjoy cooking; to me this is another form of taking an ingredient and using your creativity to make something incredible. My wife thinks I cook so well that she refuses to cook anymore. I love watching all of the cooking shows on TV, especially Iron Chef. I just can’t get enough, they are very inspiring.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIKE: I enjoy drinking a dry Gewurztraminer from Sonoma County, Anderson Valley, or from the Alsace region of France. It’s a wonderful wine that you can drink alone or with Thai, Asian or Mexican food all of which I enjoy cooking and eating. The best examples have a depth and a perfume that is unbelievable.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans. Your Alexander Valley Cab is stupendous!

MIKE: Thanks, very much, Red. Now, back to the grapes!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Optima Winery in Healdsburg can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: The Filigreen Pedigree

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Infiltrate Segue Cellars and recover some of their limited production BioDynamic 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Segue Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Anderson Valley Filigreen Vineyard Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Stephen Yafa

Backgrounder:

The Anderson Valley AVA in Mendocino County runs long the Anderson River, which flows northwest from near Boonville towards Navarro. The west side of the Anderson River rises to a region known as the Mendocino ridge, a higher elevation aspect than much of the inland wine growing regions in Mendocino County. It is one of California’s coolest wine growing regions with the climate most influenced by proximity coast. The region is also well known for having a diverse alluvial soil structure that supports a wide variety of grapes.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy with ruby and violet reflections through its deep clear core. Along the edges, the color remains violet and when swirled, this wine leaves random clusters of slow legs that thin as they descend to the wine below.

Smell – Medium bold in aromatics with focused herbal red cherry and raspberry fruit leading the way. Layers of floral violet, subtle dried mint leaves, earthy forest and a hint of leather emerge upon further exploration of the nose.

Feel – Smooth and dry, with silky fine grained tannins and bright but balanced acidity are interwoven with a slight dusty minerality that spreads over the palate and lingers into the finish.

Taste – Vibrant and youthful fruit flavors of red and black cherry along with tart raspberry are integrated with herbal and earthy notes. Spice, vanilla and and oak linger under the fruit and mix with this wine’s minerality.

Finish – Medium to long in length, this wine’s lingering minerality, oak, spice and bright fruit spread over the palate tempting another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Segue Cellars Anderson Valley Filigreen Vineyard Pinot Noir is a delicious and focused Pinot Noir that shows vivid fruit and a unique herbal and earthy character. Great minerality along with this wine’s finely textured tannins and acidity makes this wine great for pairing with food. Enjoy a bottle now, but be sure to stash a few away in the cellar as a few years in the bottle with definitely benefit this wine as it integrates and evolves.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Stephen Yafa

DATE OF BIRTH: 5/41

PLACE OF BIRTH: Lowell, Mass

WINE EDUCATION: No formal wine education. I’ve apprenticed to artisan winemakers, and learned what I know over the course of twenty-plus years making a variety of wines with friends, and now commercially. The best teachers by far are the vines themselves. When they’re happy there’s an excellent chance they’ll produce wine that makes you happy. That doesn’t happen by chance, in my experience as winemaker and now a vineyard owner.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: The name of my winery says it all: Segue. I segued from being a writer about wine—among other things— for Wine Enthusiast, Saveur Magazine, the San Francisco Chronicle and numerous other publications to making my own commercial Pinot Noir in 2005. In the process I became a cellar rat for one crush to learn from the ground up. I spent hours in the vineyard with Pinot Noir master Greg LaFollette learning about correcting mineral deficiencies, leafing, pruning, leaf architecture, all those things that take huge amounts of time and labor to do right, but pay off in the glass. Shortcuts? I wish. A full accounting of my leap into the fermentation tank, so to speak, can be found at http://www.seguecellars.com/about.htm. Click on “Going Pro”, a 3-part series I wrote for Wines&Vines. It includes an episode where I get locked in the barrel room of DeLoach Vineyards at night. It could have been worse. I was surrounded by 5000 gallons of delicious vino.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Pinot Noir is a delicate lady with many hidden talents. Do not force yourself on her, encourage her to reveal her talents and attributes in her own time, naturally, and be thankful for the gifts she delivers to those who treat her with respect.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Pinot Noir, if that’s not already apparent. I love the Russian River Valley’s earthy, cola complexity, and the lively black fruit of the Anderson Valley, Mendocino single-vineyard biodynamically grown Pinot that I make from Filigreen Vineyards.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: I was invited to pour my organic, biodynamically grown ‘07 Filigreen at an exclusive donor’s event at the Chicago Public Library honoring author Michael Pollan. The Segue Russian River received a 93 score from the Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine, and those guys are tough. I know. I’ve tasted with them. By the way, they taste blind. They’d even give their own wives a low score if they happened to make wine that didn’t meet their standards—and yes, probably wind up sleeping in the car.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: One of my Pinots tied for second among women out of 355 entries into the ‘08 Pinot Summit Shootout. It placed 5th among men.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ” As in life, love, and the Tao, in wine balance is everything.”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Steve. We are thrilled to be showing your Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Hit me with your hardest.

RED: Don’t worry, Steve, I’ll go easy on you. This time.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

STEVE: On the ground, running. Also from interviewing hundreds of winemakers as a journalist.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

STEVE: Aside from Gevrey-Chambertin, and closer to home, a few of the “sauvage” Pinots made by Greg LaFollette for his winery, Tandem. Greg makes wine in a style, that in the words of another winemaker, is like standing on the corner waiting for the next accident to happen. By which he means that if you make unfiltered, unfined Pinot Noir, you are inviting Brett and every other contaminating yeast and bacterial strain to run you over. True enough. But if you succeed you come out with a wine that delivers an infinite mouthful and noseful of Pinot character. And that’s what I do. I play on the edge, where the stakes are high and the rewards are , to me, worth the risk. So far, no accidents—and if I see one looming I know who to call—Greg.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

STEVE: Informally—over 25 years; commercially, 4 years.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

STEVE: Myself. Only.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

STEVE: Russian River follow the fog. Cool foggy nights and mornings Goldridge volcanic, well-drained soil = earthy, loamy, cola-scented Pinot Noir. Anderson Valley: marine-influences organically rich soil = pure dark berry fruit, Indian spices.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

STEVE: Have a rich father-in-law who wants to keep his daughter happy.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

STEVE: Getting my ‘08 Filigreen in shape; smoke taint from forest fires contaminated a lot of ‘08 Mendocino wines. I’m just about clear of it now.

RED: Challenging! Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

STEVE: It’s non-filtered, non-fined; it’s Russian River all the way for better or worse. Forest floor, bright fruit, dense, and it keeps on giving and changing as you work your way through a bottle.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

STEVE: This Segue like all my wines, is meant to be drunk with food. That’s why there’s enough acid in it to make it mouth-watering and non-competitive with what you’re eating. It’s meant to accompany salmon, light cheese and chicken dishes, mushroom dishes, even veal. I don’t recommend drinking it with spicy foods or tomato-based entrees. A mushroom risotto or halibut with a minced hazelnut crust? Mais oui.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

STEVE: I am working my way back to being a teenager as I get older. I now fly down trails on my mountain bike again and alpine ski my ass off as fast as possible. It’s not on the menu for recommended after-50 activities.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

STEVE: A brambly Zin or Montepulciano with pasta. Pinot with everything else I eat. I eat only veggies and fish, so my palate is limited for wines with food. I love opulent Cabs and such; I just don’t drink them daily. Whites: Honig Sauvignon Blanc. A Weingut Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner. And the sleeper-rosés. Lymar Winery in particular, also Spanish grenache-based (granacia) rosés.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

STEVE: Sip by sip, smile by smile.

RED: Excellent advice. If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

STEVE: Jean-Louis Trapet ‘04 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Ostrea

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

STEVE: Is it an act of pure folly or enlightened passion for a wine writer to segue into making his own commercial wine? In other words, does love conquer all? Only in the movies. In the vineyard and winery diligence and hard work do the heavy lifting, but to make a delicious wine that sings in the mouth and embraces your senses like a warm hug, ah, yes, that’s worth all the effort and more.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

STEVE: As a writer, you generally massage people’s heads before you touch their hearts. Making a wine, that sequence in exactly reversed. Vive la difference.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Filigreen Vineyard is located near Boonville, CA which can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Affinity for Greatness

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Napa’s Robert Craig Winery

Mission Status: Ongoing…

Current Winery: Robert Craig Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet

Winemaker: Robert Craig

Backgrounder:

While Robert Craig Winery is well known for their mountain fruit wines, today’s selection is made from fruit found in in the Mt. George region of southeastern Napa near the Stag’s Leap District. This area rivals Rutherford for top honors of Napa’s Cabernet Sauvignon. The region is best known for exceptional Bordeaux varietals and today’s selection is an excellent example of the character of the region’s wines.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple with garnet reflexes through its dense but clear core. Along the edges the color remains a deep garnet and when swirled, widely-spaced fat legs hang for a few seconds before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity with inviting aromas of lush and vivid black-fruit including blackberry, black cherry and blueberry are interlaced with toasted and smokey oak, exotic allspice and floral violets.

Feel – Smooth and rich, this full-bodied classic is dry with finely grained silky tannins and bright but balanced acidity. Mouth-coating and expansive, with excellent minerality, this wine has real staying power that lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Plush and rich flavors of black cherry, plum, blackberry and blueberry with subtle and sentimental allspice and mild cinnamon. Flavors of toasted oak are well integrated with complex black olive, mocha coffee and the underlying minerality that is initially felt on the palate.

Finish – Warm and lingering, this clean and well structured wine’s flavors clings to the palate, making the mouth water in anticipation of another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Robert Craig Winery Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet is a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon (blend) with tremendous character. Warm and inviting on both the nose and the palate, this wine is drinking wonderfully right now but has the backbone to cellar for years to come. We enjoyed this delicious wine with word-fire grilled pork-loin seasoned simply with garlic, pepper, paprika and sea-salt.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Keith Emerson

DATE OF BIRTH: 3/22/76

PLACE OF BIRTH: Boston, Mass.

WINE EDUCATION: Enology & Viticulture / Fermentation Science B.S., UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Director of Winemaking – Vineyard 29, Consulting Winemaker – Robert Craig Winery, Winemaker – Knighton Family Vineyards, Leaf + Twig Vineyard, Gundlach Bundschu Winery, Bartholomew
Park Winery, Owner / Winemaker – Emerson Brown Wines, Owner / Winemaker – Emerson Wines (all current)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Gentle, meticulous handling and attention to detail every step of the way. Small lot, hands on winemaking, utilizing gravity as much as possible and showcasing the fruit from each specific site.

SIGNATURE VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Establishment of Emerson Brown Wines in 2005 (tremendously successful, boutique Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc), hand crafted in Vineyard 29’s state of the art facility

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Establishment of Emerson Wines in 2009. Single-vineyard (Shea Vineyard) Oregon Pinot Noir, hand crafted in Vineyard 29’s state of the art facility

WINEMAKER QUOTE: If you work harder than the next guy and pay attention to detail every step of the way, good things will happen!

AGENT RED: Greetings, Keith Emerson. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Robert Craig Winery “Affinity” Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KEITH: Thanks for having me

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KEITH: I grew up in the restaurant and bar business back east. I’ve always said that I fell in love with wine through food.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

KEITH: Honestly, on the job experience has been even more beneficial than my studies at UC Davis (though I learned a lot there as well, of course).

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

KEITH: Gentle, meticulous handling and attention to detail every step of the way. Small lot, hands on winemaking, utilizing gravity as much as possible and showcasing the fruit from each specific site.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KEITH: I’ve been fortunate to work with and learn from several world class winemakers including Philippe Melka, Andy Erickson, Celia Welch, Zelma Long, Allan Johnson (NZ), and others.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

KEITH: 12 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KEITH: The wine drinker!

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

KEITH: The amazing geological activities that have occurred here over time. So many microclimates and soil types in such a small valley!

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

KEITH: Lots of hard work, ridiculous hours, don’t ever plan on vacationing in September or October for the rest of your life!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KEITH: Online interviews (kidding)! Post-harvest vineyard meetings, post-harvest wine lot evaluation tastings, barreling down 2009 reds, ordering bottling supplies for upcoming bottling season, winterizing the winery, etc.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

KEITH: 2006 was my first vintage working with Robert Craig Winery and thus my first opportunity to influence the wines. The 2006 Affinity is a harmonious blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, with a few additional Bordeaux blenders, from select valley and hillside vineyards.

Aroma: Concentrated berry and black cherry fruit at the forefront, underlaiin with sweet cassis and touches of violets, lavender and spicy oak. Flavors: A beautifully polished core of black fruit on the mid-palate, interwoven with black olive, red currant, espresso and a hint of maple. Finish: Lush and generous, focusing on more dense fruit, enlivened with crisp acidity and silky, fine-grained tannins.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KEITH: Rack of lamb

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

KEITH: Huge Boston Celtics, Red Sox, New England Patriots fan

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

KEITH: Difficult to say though I always love a clean, refreshing Vhinos Verde from Portugal.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

KEITH: With an open mind and an appreciation for exciting, unique, well-made wines

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

KEITH: Tough question… maybe DRC La Tache

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

KEITH: Thanks very much!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Robert Craig Winery in the Howell Mountain region of Napa can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: The Art of Complete Seduction

Operative: Agent Sparkle

Objective: Secure an exceptional full-bodied vintage Champagne.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Champagne Charles Ellner

Wine Subject: 1999 ‘Séduction’ Brut

Winemaker: Pierre Ellner

Backgrounder:

Originally considered a fault for wine to have a secondary fermentation in the bottle, Champagne has become among the most sought after wines. While Dom Perignon is credited with inventing Champagne in 1690, evidence suggests that the legendary monk spent most of his time riding his wine of its effervescent qualities. Checking our history, the 1718 manuscript Memoire sure le Maniere de cultiver la Vigne et de Faire le Vin de Champagne, discusses the creation of this sparkling masterpiece at least six years before Dom Perignon arrived in the region.

Considered a specific wine with a designated AOC, Champagne is usually made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc. Champagne is also different in that it is ‘Assembled’, or blended with as many as 50 or more base wines, hence many Champagnes are Non-Vintage. Champagne is also always categorized with an Eschelle des Crus which indicates the base price and quality of the grapes used. The highest eschelle is grand cru and represents only the top 1% of grapes. Premier Cru represents grapes in the 90-99% range.

Today’s selection is a vintage Champagne with all the grapes coming from the same harvest year. Usually the best fruit from only the better vintages, are reserved for the vintage Champagne.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Pale straw yellow with golden hues. Along the edge the color fades to almost clear and tiny effervescent bubbles rise to form a delicate mousse.

Smell – Medium in intensity this wine blends creamy biscuit, hints of oak with ripe spiced apple and fresh fig. Complex notes of toasted hazelnut, dried fruit, candied citrus, orange blossom honey and subtle butter mix with its chalky limestone minerality.

Feel – Smooth and dry initially, this medium-to-full bodied Champagne has a creamy texture that is balanced by its crisp acidity and tingling effervescence. This wine’s minerality lingers over the palate and into the finish along with a touch of sweetness.

Taste – Bountiful flavors of red and green apple interlace with yeasty biscuit and chalky minerality on the first pass. As this wine dances over the palate, hints of Meyer lemon and citrus custard along with subtle honey, toast, nuts and vanilla emerge.

Finish – Clean, with balanced creaminess and crispness, this wine lingers with apple, citrus, biscuit and minerality.

Conclusion – The Champagne Charles Ellner 1999 ‘Séduction’ Brut is a classic vintage Champagne that shows its rich and creamy biscuit and characteristic toastiness well, but does so with fresh apple and citrus keeping the flavors fresh and lively.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Champagne Charles Ellner 1999 ‘Séduction’ Brut

DATE OF BIRTH: March 22, 1958

PLACE OF BIRTH: Epernay, France

WINE EDUCATION: Fermentation Sciences, University Of Reims

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Terroir Expression, Pure Fruit Structure

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Chardonnay

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Aging Vintage Champagne

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Once I found what chalky soils can do with high quality grapes, i was in love!

AGENT SPARKLE: Greetings, We are thrilled to be showing your 1999 ‘Séduction’ Brut today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: The pleasure is mine

SPARKLE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: Yes, my family and their respect for the vines of Champagne.

SPARKLE: And where did you learn the most about wine-making?

WINEMAKER: From working in the vineyard and the cellar.

SPARKLE : What is your wine-making style or philosophy?

WINEMAKER: The purest fruit flavors allowed to age gracefully with the slight influence of oak.

SPARKLE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your wine-making style?

WINEMAKER: The village of Mesnil and the small growers who grow Chardonnay there gave me my inspiration for well structured and age worthy Champagnes.

SPARKLE: How long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: 18 Years

SPARKLE: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: the greatest variety of wine enthusiasts who appreciate fine champagne.

SPARKLE: Tell me, what makes the Champagne region so special?

WINEMAKER: The quality of the soil, the ability to keep the bottles in the cellar, owning your own vineyards.

SPARKLE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WINEMAKER: find a mentor to work with in the cellar.

SPARKLE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: always working to keep our wines fresh in style.

SPARKLE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: the Séduction 1999 is an amazing wine, so rich and complex, I believe most people have never tasted a champagne like this before. It has aged for more than 7 yrs on it’s lees in the cellar, creating a richness of flavor that is very exciting.

SPARKLE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: The Séduction 1999 is rich enough to pair with chicken dishes very well.

SPARKLE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

WINEMAKER: I love Champagne!

SPARKLE:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WINEMAKER: Cabernet Franc

SPARKLE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WINEMAKER: Firstly, with a very open mind, secondly, do not expect anything, just let your palette tell you about the wine.

SPARKLE: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WINEMAKER: Vintage Champagne

SPARKLE: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WINEMAKER: How does this wine compare to famous brands of vintage Champagne?

It does not compare to how expensive famous brands of Champagne are, and it far surpasses them in quality and complexity, as they cannot age their wines as we can.

SPARKLE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WINEMAKER: The pleasure is mine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Champagne Charles Ellner in Epernay can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: The Perfection

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a stellar Petite Syrah for our demanding Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Foppiano Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Estate Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Natalie West

Backgrounder: Several months have passed since we presented a great Petite Sirah. Our Operatives have been clamoring another. Great Petite Sirah is available in California, but it can take some clever sleuthing to find a really great example. When we put out the call for a killer Petite, the consensus among our Operatives was nearly unanimous: Infiltrate Foppiano. Agent Red was dispatched, and, while undercover there he discovered their 2005 Estate Petite Sirah. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest dark burgundy with an inky heart and beautiful purple edges. This wine has a heavy and tight-looking surface that, after swirling, reveals tightly-spaced legs that take a long while to emerge before they crawl slowly down the glass in chubby columns

Smell – A heady rush of jammy blackberry greets your nose, followed by smoky blueberry, bright cassis, dark plum, soft oak and clove. These sit atop notes of brown sugar, vanilla bean, pepper and black cherry

Feel – Big and chewy, right off the bat! Then, as the wine winds its way around your mouth, it coats softly, adding a lovely grippy dryness – particularly at the cheeks and lips

Taste – Rich and beautifully layered, with deeply concentrated flavors of dark stonefruit, ripe mixed dark berries, black cherry, plum, licorice, soft cedar and oak, underpinned by a softly fresh forest floor

Finish – Dry, chewy and lush with bold and dark flavors that begin softly tart, and then go sweet as flavors evolve and then tail off over a long interval

Conclusion – Ahhh, fantastic Petite Sirah, how I have missed you! Today’s wine is a delightful reminder of why I am so intrigued by this varietal. With a big, rich deliciousness and aromas that have us enjoying deep inhalations, this 2005 Foppiano Estate Petite Sirah is a very sensory wine. Add the taste and smell, the great feel of this wine and you have a very exciting overall drinking experience. Pair this wine with your bolder kitchen creations – or enjoy it all on it’s own. Stock up, because this is your final chance to purchase this remarkable treat.

Mission Report:

What follows, for your benefit, is a retransmission of our initial mission report, in which Agent Red describes how difficult it was to infiltrate Foppiano Vineyards:

Sometimes penetrating a winery can be extremely difficult. This cab be particularly frustrating when the winery in question is holding on to some fantastic goods.

In extreme cases, we have had to resort to rather dastardly tactics. Such was the case with Foppiano Vineyards, where we had to place our own sleeper within the organization. Compound the difficulty with the fact that this sleeper didn’t even know he was our creation. He had no idea that he was even working for us.

In order to pull off this remarkable feat of subterfuge, I called upon one of my best assets, wine industry veteran Agent Smith. You’ll recall from previous missions that Smith has worked in the most parts of the biz.

I expressed to Smith the frustration over my lack of success with Foppiano. Immediately, he hatched a plan! Weeks later he directed an asset of his own to interview for a newly created position at Foppiano. How this senior position came into existence I did not ask, but the asset – codename: Afterburner – was hired on the spot.

From there, it was just a simple matter of waiting while Afterburner got up to speed in his new position at the winery. Once he found his legs, Agent Smith put in a call and I had my meeting! A few days later and I had secured today’s incredible Foppiano wine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Foppiano Winery and Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Smarter than I Look

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a delicious and value oriented 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Roots Run Deep Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Educated Guess Napa Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Barry Gnekow

Backgrounder:

Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here. Carneros Pinot Noir is revered for its quality, elegance and smoothness, and the 2007 vintage is quickly being recognized as one of the best in many years.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet and burgundy with ruby red reflections shining through its deep but clear core. Along the edges the color becomes ruby with violet hues and when swirled, widely spaced fast thin legs race down to the wine below.

Smell – Fresh and redolent and medium in intensity. Aromas of red and black cherry are layered over spice and sentimental cola notes. Hints of floral violets, subtle black licorice candy, smoke and mocha coffee also emerge as this wine evolves in the glass.

Feel – This medium to full-bodied wine is velvet smooth with silky but well structured tannins and bright but balanced acidity. Rich and expansive on the palate, but feminine in its supple quality.

Taste – Rich and well integrated, this wine has plush flavors of red and black cherry along with ripe plum and hints of strawberry fruit. Flavors of cola (soft vanilla & cinnamon) are layered with subtle smokey oak, floral violet and rose. A touch of spice, earth are mocha are revealed as this wine begins to open up.

Finish – This wine finishes long and clean, fading slowly with its lingering and mouthwatering rich fruit flavors and spice buttressed by this wine’s structure.

Conclusion – The 2007 Roots Run Deep Winery Educated Guess Napa Carneros Pinot Noir is a delicious Pinot Noir that is rich and smooth with great finesse and elegance. Fruit forward, but not overbearing in style and very approachable, this wine is drinking wonderfully right now and will certainly improve with some bottle time.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: BARRY GNEKOW

DATE OF BIRTH: April 19, 1951

PLACE OF BIRTH: Stockton, CA

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker for roots run deep winery and educated guess wines

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Over-deliver each and every time!!!

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Zinfandel

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: I was the winemaker that got the BATF to approve reverse osmosis as a winemaking process. I was the first it use it.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “SURF’S UP!”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Barry. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir today. We are pretty impressed that you managed to squeeze so much value into your bottle! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BARRY: Thanks so much for having me! Yes, it isn’t easy to do what we do and if it was everyone would be doing it. Our philosophy is to always make wines that over-deliver for the price and we are thrilled that you found that to be true in our educated guess 2007 Napa Carneros pinot noir!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BARRY: Yes my first time drinking a 1971 Simi Gewürztraminer! The wine was perfect and not because of gobs of fruit and alcohol (which is so common today), but for balance and a pure expression of the fruit. Something inside of me just clicked. I just got it!

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

BARRY: At my first job at J Lohr in 1976. I was the winemaker there for 20 years and i remember how new everything was to me when i started. The owner allowed me the freedom to express myself and try new things and it was there that i really learned everything that I utilize today as a winemaker.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

BARRY: It’s just gotta taste good! That may sound simple and it really is, but so many wineries get caught up in using the most expensive methods of winemaking that they lose sight of what is best for the wine. Less is more in some cases, and more is better in others!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BARRY: Mayacamas and Ridge wines in the 60’s and 70’s

RED: How long have you been making wine?

BARRY: 35 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BARRY: Always for the consumer!

RED: Tell me, what makes Carneros so special?

BARRY: Carneros is such a perfect region for Pinot Noir! It has the perfect climate and soil content. Warm days and cool nights are prevalent due to the region’s close proximity to the bay and the Pacific Ocean. We get a fairly long growing season which promotes great structure, body, and development in the fruit. Great fruit and great acidity makes Carneros a beautiful area to grow our fruit for our Educated Guess Pinot Noir!

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

BARRY: Don’t believe your own winery’s press releases

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BARRY: Fermentations, barrel trials, and blending out our 2008 vintages..

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

BARRY: Our EDUCATED GUESS 2007 NAPA CARNEROS PINOT NOIR is truly a labor of love. It is 100% Pinot Noir from both the Carneros and Spring Mountain wine districts. Handcrafted in every way to insure that our wine has plenty of lush fruit to balance out the bright acidity that Carneros is known for. Our Educated Guess 2007 Napa Carneros Pinot Noir spent 15 months in French Oak barrels and is deep, rich, and concentrated in color and texture with ripe strawberry, red cherry and wild berry fruit. Hints of spice and cola with firm tannins in the finish.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BARRY: Smoked duck eggrolls

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

BARRY: I tried to start a snail farm prior to becoming a winemaker.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

BARRY: Any Albarino or Robert Sinskey’s Pinot Gris

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

BARRY: With an open mind and don’t be overly influenced by other people’s opinion of what is good. Judge for yourself!

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

BARRY: 1989 Chateau Margaux

RED: Oh, just that, eh? Tell me, what is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

BARRY: Do you like to surf Barry? Of course I do!!! Actually I’m heading to Costa Rica for thanksgiving so while you all are reading this I will be heading to the airport to catch my flight, so happy turkey day to you all!!!

RED: Thanks, Barry. I’ll be enjoying a bottle of your wine with Thanksgiving dinner this year! Have a great trip to Costa Rica. I wish that we could tag along! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

BARRY: Thank you so much, it really means a lot to Mark and me that we were able to speak to you all today! Take care and happy holidays!!!

Mission Codename: Stepping up

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Investigate reports that Cornerstone Cellars, producer of high-end Napa Valley wines, has created a budget-minded Cabernet Franc that lives up to the Cornerstone name. If the wine is a excellent as intel reports indicate, secure an ample allotment for our Franc-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cornerstone Cellars, Napa Valley, California

Wine Subject: 2007 Steppingstone Cabernet Franc, Carneros

Winemaker: Jeff Keene

Backgrounder:

Cornerstone Cellars, a Wine Spies favorite winery, recently introduced today’s 2007 Steppingstone Cabernet Franc, a delicious and elegant high-value wine that he recommends wholeheartedly. As you know by now, Cabernet Franc is one of Agent Red’s favorite red varietals. Perhaps this is because its flavors are often rich, layered, complex and elegant. Or, perhaps he loves Cabernet Franc so much because it pairs so exceptionally with many different foods. One of the most notable things about Cabernet Franc is the fact that finding excellent examples can be very difficult. Read Red’s tasting notes and mission report below for the full intel on today’s superb wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and inky garnet with a beautiful wide ring of pure ruby near the edge of the glass. When you swirl this wine, you will notice a soft but weighty surface that settles quickly, leaving behind tight clusters of skinny legs that move steadily down the glass

Smell – Softly and very pleasantly perfumy, leading with darkest mixed berry, blackberry bramble, dark dried flower petals, soft dried meats and a hint of spice. After some swirling, additional aromas of brown sugar and soft spice make a very pronounced and very intriguing appearance

Feel – Velvet-smooth on entry, round and softly voluptuous. Quickly, the wine grips in softly, showing off a medium body, coating the entire palate and adding a subtle dryness

Taste – Balanced flavors of smoky dark berry, bright cherry, cassis, lightest red plum and overripe raspberry play against and earthen character that shows off subtle fresh herbs, softest spices and a hint of forest floor

Finish – Long and delicious, with an elegant feel that leaves your mouth feeling exhilarated and wanting that next sip

Conclusion – Don’t tell Agent White, but I tend to spend an inordinate amount of time seeking out fantastic Cabernet Franc. The fact that we don’t feature that many tells you that I am extraordinarily choosy when it comes to my favorite varietal. When reports started flooding in that our friends at Cornerstone Cellars were preparing a high-QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) Franc, I wasted no time; I contacted the winery and arranged a private tasting as quickly as I could. Needless to say, I was blown away. This wine is a brilliant example of just how wonderful – and flexible – Cabernet Franc can be. With perfectly balanced aromatics, flavors and feel, this wine also has the right amount of bright acidity to make it a ready companion to most meals. If you are looking for a fantastic wine that will go with nearly anything you plan to serve this Holiday season, I give this wine my heartiest recommendation!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jeff Keene

DATE OF BIRTH: 04/71

PLACE OF BIRTH: Waiouru, New Zealand

WINE EDUCATION: Postgraduate degree in Oenolgy and Viticulture from Lincoln University in New Zealand, with an undergraduate in Chemistry, because there needs to be a little science with this art.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Havens Wine Cellars, Peter Franus Wine Company and Cornerstone Cellars.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To produce wines that reflect site & appellation, respecting traditions and to make wines we like to drink.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Come back to me in 2 to 3 years time with this question, but I have to say that I have had the most challenges and rewards with Cabernet Franc.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Every day is a highlight, but honestly, the friends I have made and the wines I have drunk while in this industry are the highlights…and its not over yet!

WINEMAKER QUOTE: If it ain’t broke don’t fix it…I think you can apply this to most occupations

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jeff. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Steppingstone Cabernet Franc today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JEFF: Thank you so much for giving me this opportunity. It’s an honor to be given this mission.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JEFF: Well, growing up in a house where there was nothing but the ‘bag in the box’ wine on offer, I can tell you this inspired me to find better wine…

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JEFF: I can point to my education in New Zealand, but for all aspects of winegrowing, physically, mentally, spiritually I have to say the majority of my experience came from my time at Havens Wine Cellars where I had the opportunity to work with 2 great, but stylistically different winemakers, Peter Franus and Michael Havens.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JEFF: I aspire to make wines that reflect the site and appellation they come from and also to make wines we love to drink, very challenging, but the rewards are a great bottle of wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JEFF: All wines I try influence me in one way or another, but in terms of winemakers, once again, Peter Franus and Michael Havens…2 different winemaking heads. I have learnt a lot from these guys and I am still learning from them…

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JEFF: 11 years now…time flies when you are having fun, but then there is bottling…

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JEFF: You, me and all the consumers out there who enjoy great wines

RED: Tell me, what makes the Carneros region so special?

JEFF: What makes the Carneros region so special is the moderating influences of the Bay (San Pablo and San Francisco). The growing season starts earlier, but extends longer than most inland areas. Cooling begins earlier in the afternoon, the results of this are wines with deeper, more stable color and mouth-filling, textured tannins, all with slightly more acidity for refreshing fruitiness.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JEFF: Listen, learn, travel and have fun. What an amazing industry to be in. Wine is made in some of the worlds most beautiful regions. So many different styles, traditions and personalities. It’s a fascinating experience and one that you are always continually learning.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JEFF: The last of my tanks was just pressed out, so the 2009 harvest is all in barrels, happily, quietly doing what it needs to do, so occupying my time at the moment is catching up with my family after a long harvest and wondering where in the garage I put my skis…

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JEFF: The 2007 Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc from the vineyards of the Carneros region highlights all those amazing characteristics which I was just talking about… mouth filling, textured tannins, refreshing…
This is a very fragrant and elegant wine which balances its high toned refreshing acidity with a full well structured palate. Long and firm on the finish, this wine has the texture to be enjoyed now, but it also has the tannic structure to age for 3-5 years.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JEFF: A nicely roasted ‘gamey’ leg of lamb.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

WINEMAKER: My wife and 2 kids keep me sane in this profession.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JEFF: Being in this industry I count myself very lucky that I am surrounded by many great wines that I can enjoy everyday. So… many favorites, but I am always on the look out for new wines from new producers and regions.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JEFF: I would recommend people approach these wines with great enthusiasm and don’t hold back…sorry that was the sales person in me…With wine in general…don’t be afraid to try new wines, new winemakers, new regions / new experiences. Let your own intuition guide you.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

JEFF: Not this question please…my answer to this question is always based on who, what, where and how…Who I am with, friends, family…What am doing, something, nothing…Where I am, inside, outside, hot, cold and how I am feeling…party or reflective…

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

JEFF: Where and what is Waiouru…middle of the North Island of New Zealand, close to Lake Taupo…and not a vineyard to be seen in any direction.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JEFF: A successful mission I hope, thank you once again for this opportunity it was great to talk with you. Is your name really agent red…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the vineyards where today’s wine was born can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Quoth the Raven

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: After a protracted surveillance, infiltrate Ravenswood Winery and procure their winery-only 2007 Chauvet Zinfandel, making it available to our Operatives as a World Exclusive wine

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ravenswood Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Ravenswood Chauvet Zinfandel

Winemaker: Joel Peterson

Backgrounder: Today’s single vineyard Zinfandel is a Wine Spies World exclusive. Available only at the winery – and here today – this Zinfandel is a rare treat for lover’s of exceptional Zin. Today, winemaker Joel Peterson shows off his winemaking skills and his Chauvet Vineyard fruit, which was planted 135 years ago, in 1874.

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Sonoma Valley Zinfandels, which are characterized by their richness and and balance, are vastly popular with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet in color, with a dark and almost Burgundy heart, this wine looks deep and richly foreboding. When swirled, this wine shows off a softly bouncy surface that settles fast, leaving behind tight clusters of thin legs that take a long time to emerge before they march slowly down the glass.

Smell – On opening, the wine presents darkly jammy mixed berry aromas. These are followed by brighter blueberry, dark plum, smoky dark cherry, dark chocolate and dark dusty spice.

Feel – Light and wet on entry, then immediately more complex, with a grippy and mouth-coating feel as the fuller body of the wine makes itself known. After a few moments, the wine evolves, showing beautifully balanced fruit against a spicy tang on the mid palate, with minerals and that add the right amount of dryness.

Taste – Brooding and dark, but energetic balanced balanced flavors of overripe blackberry, smoky blueberry, ripe raspberry, dark plum, dark cherry and smoky baking spice and black pepper.

Finish – The finish is smooth and rich, leading off with dark fruits, and backed by dark cherry, minerals and spices – the flavors evolve before they tail off slowly and silky-smooth.

Conclusion – We are thrilled today to bring you this winery-only wine from Ravenswood. Those that know Ravenswood wines are likely more familiar with their fantastic but more mainstream wines. Today’s wine introduces you to a far more exciting and exclusive Ravenswood wine, their 2006 Chauvet Zinfandel. Produced in very limited quantity, The Wine Spies we able to secure a small quantity of this amazing Zin. With deep fruit that springs out of the glass, this wine is a balanced and delicious treat that is a brilliant companion to any meal – without overpowering it. Exhibiting a balanced feel and an evolving flavor profile that leads to an intriguing finish, this wine gets our heartiest recommendation.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: JOEL PETERSON

DATE OF BIRTH: APRIL 1947

PLACE OF BIRTH: Born in Oakland, California. Fifth generation Californian.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: ZINFANDEL

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Style, history, quality, character – California wine has it all.”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Joel. We are thrilled to be showing your very exclusive Chauvet Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JOEL: Happy to answer questions, particularly when they are about my favorite subject, wine. I am also thrilled that you are showing my wine today. Direct experience is one of the best ways that we have of developing fans for Ravenswood wines.

RED: I’m sure that our Operatives will respond well to today’s offer. Your Chauvet Zinfandel is excellent! Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JOEL: My father taught me to taste when I was fairly young. Many young men play baseball or hunt with their fathers (we did those things as well), but what was unusual was that I learned to taste wine and as a result got an olfactory training that is fairly rare. The single wine that change my vision of wine was a 1957 Chateau Fortia. I was about 20 years old and had developed incredibly interesting and complex perfume and flavors making is one of the most memorable wines that I had tasted up to that date.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JOEL: I spent the years from 1973 until 1977 with Joseph Swan learning the nuts and bolts of winemaking. Joe was good friends with Andre Tchelistcheff and used him as a consultant, so I was able to learn in a very hands on way from the best in the business.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JOEL: Wines should reflect the flavors of the places that they were grown. Wine should taste like fruit, not oak. Wine should be balanced, rich and complex and interesting. The best wines are the ones that develop well with age. To that end we attempt to let each vineyard express it’s optimal character by using winemaking techniques and careful attention to detail that dwells on each vineyards particular strengths. Our mantra is “no wimpy wines”, meaning that we want each wine we have to exhibit strength of character, not merely power.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JOEL: There are a whole series of wines that have influenced my winemaking style. Most of them have been European form places like Bordeaux, the Rhone and northern Italy. These memorable wines have a certain balance of fruit, density, acid and tannin that I find desirable in a wine.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JOEL: 35 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JOEL: I make the wine that best expresses the vineyard, the vintage is balanced and tastes good. As a result ,it is fair to say that, Ravenswood makes wine for me, wine reviewers and wine lovers everywhere.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Sonoma Valley so special?

JOEL: We make wine from much of Northern California, though our home is Sonoma. This is a very special region from the stand point of weather, soils, winemaking history in California and age of vines (some of the first vines planted on Root stock,1888, are in Sonoma). We have a great range of volcanic soils, a wonderful marine influenced climate and a local that has been growing grapes and making wine since the time of the Spanish occupation.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JOEL: Learn your craft well, be patient and love what you do. It is not “just a job”.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JOEL: The usual things, but I spend a lot of time these day sharing the joy of wine and the special aspects Ravenswood with as many people as I can.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JOEL: The Bedrock Zin and the Chauvet Zinfandel are both from very old vineyards in Sonoma Valley. The Bedrock was planted in 1888 and the Chauvet was planted sometime before 1920. They are both low production, less than three tons /acre, and they are both planted in Tuscan redhill series soils (very well drained reddish soils of volcanic origin). The Bedrock, while it is about 76% Zinfandel, has many of the grapes planted in traditional old vine California field blends that include Petit Sirah, Carignane, Mouvedre, Syrah, Alicante Bouche, and a few others. Chauvet is mostly Zinfandel with a few percent Alicante Bouche. Both have great vineyard specific character, delicious flavors and the typical Sonoma Valley character of Spicy black fruit character with a distinctive, savory, acid-tannin balance. The Chauvet is a little softer and more forward than the Bedrock.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JOEL: Anything Italian or Mediterranean inspired. Also, grilled meat.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JOEL: I delivered my son, Morgan, at home.

RED: Both of my mini-agents were, as well! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JOEL: Sherman and Hookers Shebang. A one liter jug wine from California. Beyond that, I taste so much, my answer should be whatever wine is in front of me.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JOEL: With a sense of exploration, joy and with food and company.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

JOEL: I would never make such a choice. Wine is about diversity and complexity. One wine would be boring. This is not a monotheistic endeavor.

RED: Excellent answer! What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

JOEL: Do you have the best, most interesting, most diverse, most challenging, most satisfying job in the universe? YES

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JOEL: Every winery needs fans. Without them there is only a singular void. So, thank you to you and all those who make wine part of their daily experience.