Mission Codename: Experience matters

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure an allocation of a delicious and also value oriented Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Schug Carneros Estate

Wine Subject: 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Michael Cox

Backgrounder:

Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here. Schug Winery is a Wine Spies favorite and we are proud to bring you today’s very special wine. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic Pinot Noir.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Clear ruby-red and a luminescent glow right through it’s heart and out to it slightly pinkish edges. This wine appears soft and bouncy when swirled. When it settles in, it leaves behind long and slender legs that streak down the inside of the glass

Smell – Gorgeous aromas of Bing cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and young strawberry sit atop soft spice, dried flowers, soft oak and a hint of earthy gray gunpowder

Feel – Smooth, light and smooth across the entire palate. Then, as soft tannins gently take hold, the wine reveals a soft medium body and medium light acidity. Overall this wine shows as bright and vibrant, with balanced acidity and a subtle minerality

Taste – Fruit-driven with cherry, raspberry, young strawberry, hints of spice, mild toasted oak and a spicy earthy layer under it all

Finish – This delightful Pinot finishes super clean and elegant, with lingering flavors that showcase its flavor components as they dwindle slowly

Conclusion – The Carneros region ranks as one of the Wine Spies’ top choices for California Pinot Noir. So, too, does Schug Winery. The combination of the two produces fantastic Pinot! Today’s wine presents a bold nose, and a deliciously fruit-forward flavor profile. Soft, elegant and vibrant, this youthful wine is ready to enjoy now, but I cannot wait to try a bottle in a year, as well. Personally, I am going to stock up on this very food-friendly wine!

Mission Report:

The following is Agent Red’s recent interview with Michael Wilcox, winemaker for Schug Carneros Estate, about Schug’s Chardonnay. This is followed by a transcript of a previous conversation between Agent Red and Walter Schug:

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. We are thrilled to be showing your great Carneros Chardonnay. The wine is really wonderful. Thanks so much for the wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MICHAEL: Thanks Red, glad you are liking the wine. It really has come into it’s own of late. I appreciate you having us.

RED: The pleasure is all ours, I assure you. How long have you been making wine?

MICHAEL: My first job in a wine cellar was when I was 19. I got a summer job working at Hacienda Wine Cellars (pre Bronco – then family owned by the Cooleys).

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MICHAEL: Not sure if it is specific, but that summer of 1987, working on the bottling line, cleaning barrels, driving all over Sonoma County sampling vineyards, long wide ranging conversations on music and farming with the winemaker, Eric Laumann all combined to sell me on the idea that growing and making wine would afford me the ability to continue to live in Sonoma Valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. Tough one. I spent my formative years from 1987 -1991 at Hacienda, a year at Dry Creek Vineyards, got my first‘Winemaker’ job at Napa Cellars/DeMoor, and have spent coming on 14 years here at Schug with Walter.
IÂ’d probably have to say my time at Napa Cellars. I was 25 and they gave me the keys and said ‘drive’. I learned to get things done, not to waste time or money, and how to pull together a wine from vineyard to bottle. For all the talk of art, it is also a big logistics game.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MICHAEL: I’ll happily steal from Robert Mondavi here: ‘The first glass of wine should invite the second.’ I don’t like flabby, heavy, ponderous wines. I want brightness and zip. Elegance is foremost.

RED: Walter Schug is a legend in the wine business. How has he influenced you?

MICHAEL: Walter has been, and continues to be a mentor. I am very fortunate that Walter saw in me someone with the kernel of his own winemaking style that he could nurture and develop. He is a font of knowledge that I can tap into at any time. With just about any situation he’s seen it in his own experience here, at Gallo, or as consultant, at least twice.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MICHAEL: We already talked about Walter being a mentor, but Eric Laumann, who gave me my first job was also very important. He certainly instilled a confidence in myself and the wines that make. He also is a reminder to not
take yourself too seriously, just the wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MICHAEL: Myself foremost. Plan D is always to just drink it all ourselves, so it better be good.

RED: That would be a fun way to go. Tell me, what makes the Carneros so special?

MICHAEL: Carneros is a unique blend of wind, fog, temperature and climate. We pick up 7-10 days at the beginning of the season, since we are a bit warmer because of the bay. The wind and fog of the summer means that our growing season is stretched out by another 7-10 days. We might see an extra 3 weeks of the elusive ‘hang time’ in a normal growing season – without pushing the boundaries of ripeness and alcohol.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MICHAEL: Trust yourself and your palette. Don’t chase a style or someone else’s opinion. Be ready to work and get down and dirty. Don’t expect a lot other than the reward of the wine itself.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MICHAEL: We are gearing up for the bottling season, so we are trying to finalize our blends. I am tasting through all the barrels in the cellar and generally laying the groundwork for what should be a good season.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MICHAEL: Our Carneros Chardonnay is mostly barrel fermented and aged sur lie in approximately 20% new French Oak. It comes from a range of vineyards in the immediate vicinity of the Estate. That gives us a range of clones to work with when it comes time to assemble the blend. In addition, a small portion never sees wood and is raised in stainless steel. This affords us the ability to blend in wine that exhibits pure chardonnay fruit exuberance and brings freshness and vivacity to the wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MICHAEL: Well, as always, it would be something that Kristine Schug has whipped up (she treats us well during the harvest). A roast chicken with meyer lemon sauce. Acidity in both the wine and the food is so important to making a good match.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MICHAEL: Considering how much I enjoyed my time at NASCAR today, I may well be a closet redneck.

RED: Nice. What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MICHAEL: Well until recently it had been Laurenz V.’s Gruener Veltliner, either the Singing or the Charming, but I have been drinking a lot of our dry Rose of Pinot Noir of late.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MICHAEL: Well wine is for sharing with friends so have some people you like around and start opening bottles. Schug wines always get better of the course of a meal as the layers start to unveil themselves. Don’t rush into it. Relax and enjoy.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MICHAEL: The Holy Trinity from E. Guigal – La Turque, La Mouline, La Landonne. Odd for a Pinot maker, but I could drink those all night.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. How about: ‘If you couldn’t make wine, what would you do?’ And to be honest, I am not sure of the answer… I always say that my retirement plan is to move to Hawaii (Kauai – westside) and make rum, but that’s a bit close to winemaking… So perhaps a historian and author. 18th and 19th century European to be a bit more precise.

RED: Very cool. Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MICHAEL: No problem. Thanks again for having me. I hope I covered what you wanted to know. Glad you like the wine, I hope your Operatives do, too.

And here is a recap of Agent Red’s original interview with Walter Schug:

I had the incredible great fortune to meet with one of the wine industry’s most respected and renowned wine craftsmen in California wine history.

Walter Schug, owner and winemaster at Schug Carneros Estate, was born into wine in Germany in 1936, where his father was winemaker for one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir Producers.

As a young manm Walter worked throughout Europe, honing his craft. In 1966 Julio Gallo asked Walter to oversee all grapegrowing and quality control for the company. Seven years later, after Walter’s reputation had grown, Joseph Phelps asked Walter to become Phelps’ winemaker at his new Napa Valley winery.

Walter helped to create the Insignia label and some of the finest and most sought after Bordeaux-style blends in the country. Walter crafted wines that set the high water mark for excellence in winemaking.

To this day, Walter Schug’s early influence on the industry lives on, with wineries across California and around the world emulating his winemaking style.

With Phelps, Walter Schug’s goal was to make the best Bordeaux-style blend possible. Today, Walter Schug’s philosophy remains largely unchanged. There is one big difference, however; Where a bottle of Insignia may cost you $200 or more, a Schug wine of comparable quality with cost you less than $60.

On arriving at the Schug winery last week, I am greeted by Axel Schug, Director of Marketing for the winery and the son of Walter Schug. Axel, with whom I had met previously, introduces me to his father, and then escorts me through the bowels of the winery, to a tasting room buried in a wine cave. The long table the stretches down the tunnel is surrounded on both sides by seemingly every vintage from Schug’s history.

As I am escorted to my seat, I notice several magnums of Insignia wine and I spot one bottle in a special wooden display. Walter Schug sees me looking at it and he takes it from the display and shows it to me. The bottle is from Joseph Phelps himself, and a touching tribute to Walter Schug, from Phelps, is engraved on the back.

What follows is a partial transcript of our conversation:

AGENT RED: Mr. Schug, thank you so much for making yourself available today. It is an honor to meet you!

WALTER SCHUG: Welcome, Agent Red.

AGENT RED: Let me first say that your wines blow me away. The winery is beautiful as well. I love Carneros and wines from the region. You are really a pioneer of the region. When it came time to build your own winery, how did you come to settle here?

WALTER SCHUG: When I was with Gallo, I sourced fruit from Carneros. I recognized the region as having great potential for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Given my passion for Pinot, settling in Carneros was a natural.

AGENT RED: And, when you did settle, you produced a fair amount of Chardonnay, did you not?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, and it was excellent, too. It still is. Back then, Chardonnay subsidized my passion for Pinot Noir! It allowed me to perfect Pinot here.

AGENT RED: This Cabernet Sauvignon we are drinking [today’s 2003 Heritage CS] is incredible. How has your philosophy changed from your Insignia days?

WALTER SCHUG: Very little. The goal now, as it was with Phelps back then, is to create the very best wine that we possibly can. And, to do so without recipe or formula.

AGENT RED: Ahh. Whereas I have heard that Insignia is more formulaic in its approach to winemaking today. Instead, your proportions or even fruit sources may change a good deal – if it means making wines that are that much better. Am I correct?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, this is true. This Cabernet is streamlined and far more European in character. This is a wine that has elegance, delicacy, finesse – this is what I strive for in all of my wines!

AGENT RED: Again, this is a great wine and I am sure that our Operatives will love it. I also look forward to bringing them your Pinot Noir, during a future mission.

WALTER SCHUG: If they appreciate wines that are made for the best enjoyment, they will love this wine. In the end this wine is not made by going to the vineyard and knowing what you are going to get. Rather, it is the result of meticulous blending of wines made from the best fruit. Again, it is my mission to create wines that are the best expressions of place. It is my mission to make wines that are to be enjoyed.

AGENT RED: Mission accomplished, Mr. Schug, Mission accomplished!

WALTER SCHUG: Thank you, Agent Red.

We talked a great deal about Walter Schug’s history and his influence and impact on the wine industry. While I was certainly impressed by his incredible history, I must say that what impressed me the most – what seemed to matter to me the most – was what the Schug Carneros Estate winery was doing today. Today, Schug is crafting remarkably beautiful wines that are a true delight to drink and enjoy!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Schug Carneros Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Selectin’ Trefethen!

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a superb library selection from our friends at Trefethen Family Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trefethen Family Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2002 ‘Library Selection’ Oak Knoll District Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Zeke Neeley

Backgrounder:

Napa’s Oak Knoll District, a sub-appellation of Napa, is located just north of Napa city is known for its ideal growing conditions for Merlot, Chardonnay and especially Cabernet Sauvignon. It is also one of the most diverse wine-making regions in Napa with over 20 varietals being planted within the district. Its climate is most dominated by its proximity to San Pablo bay making it the coolest AVAs in Napa along with its fertile clay and silt loam soil most influence the grapes grown in the area.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful dark purple and almost black with a dense inky core. Along the edges the color fades ever-so-slightly to garnet-violet. When swirled, clusters of thin legs descend at varying speeds to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity, this wine has a very pretty and feminine nose with aromas of red cherry, raspberry and other ripe red fruit with a very well developed notes of subtle floral rose, dried herbs, green pepper and anise. Hints of mild oak and cigar tobacco also present as this wine opens up.

Feel – This full-bodied dry wine is velvet smooth with excellent fine grained but mouth gripping tannins and well balanced acidity. A touch of minerality lingers into the finish.

Taste – Plush and supple flavors of red and black cherry, tangy cassis and other red and black berries layer over subtle and well integrated dried herbs and mild oak. A touch of cigar tobacco, spice and minerality.

Finish – Extremely clean and long, this wines ripe plush fruit and other complex flavors are supported by its perfectly structured tannins and fade gracefully, begging for another contemplative sip.

Conclusion – The 2002 Trefethen Family Vineyards ‘Library Selection’ Oak Knoll District Cabernet Sauvignon is a truly remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon from one of our operative’s most favorite wineries. Exceptional finesse and elegance in aroma and flavor with a rich and smooth texture. This wine is drinking perfectly right now and will continue to improve for years to come. While you can pair this wine with grilled meats, we enjoyed this wine all by itself.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Zeke Neeley

DATE OF BIRTH: (month/year) September 1971

PLACE OF BIRTH: California

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Biochemistry, M.S. Viticulture & Enology U.C. Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 3 years Bonny Doon Vineyards (Santa Cruz, CA), 2 years Schug Carneros Winery (Sonoma, CA)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: A ZEKE is part chef, part scientist, and part fermentation guidance counselor.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Chardonnay

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Making wine for Trefethen Family Vineyards. . . living the dream!

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Zeke. We are thrilled to be showing your 2002 Trefethen Library Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ZEKE: Who’s talking? Where are you? Oh, I didn’t see you hiding behind the curtain.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ZEKE: My wife and I would often go wine tasting in Napa and it was there that I developed not only a love of wine but a fascination for the process of winemaking.

WHITE: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

ZEKE: I know that most winemakers say that they learned the most about winemaking on their first job but I learned the more in school. Winemaking was my second career and I went to graduate school not to get a degree but to learn everything that my professors knew about winemaking.

WHITE: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

ZEKE: I’m shooting for balanced wines that accentuate the positive attributes of our estate grown fruit here in the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ZEKE: My predecessor here at Trefethen Family Vineyards, Peter Luthi, and the Dry Rieslings that he has made over the years. The chance to work with Peter and that fruit spurred me on to take this job.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

ZEKE: In reality, the yeast make the wine. We just fool them into doing what we want. I have been involved in fooling yeast for 6 vintages.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

ZEKE: We strive to make wines that the Trefethen family enjoys. Unfortunately, we make several thousand cases more than the family can get through in a year so we sell the excess.

WHITE: Tell me, what makes the Oak Knoll District so special?

ZEKE: The Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley is a climate sweet spot between the cooler Carneros district and the hot Rutherford district. Like Goldilock’s experience with baby bear’s porridge, we are “just right.” I find that cooler regions often result in thinner wines and warmer regions syrupy wines. This goes back to the pursuit by Trefethen Family Vineyards for balance.

WHITE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

ZEKE: If you are still passionate about wine after cleaning your hundredth steel tank, this might be the career for you.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ZEKE: We are harvesting the last of our Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot, monitoring fermentations, moving wine from tank to barrel, and beginning to make our 2009 Riesling blend.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

ZEKE: The 2002 Trefethen Library Cabernet sauvignon is a beautiful wine just hitting its peak. With a full velvety palate and soft tannins accentuating the spicy jammy fruit, this wine is sure to please any lover of Napa Cabernet sauvignon.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ZEKE: The 2002 Trefethen Library Cabernet sauvignon pairs beautifully with strong flavored cuts of meat from duck and pheasant to pork loin.

WHITE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

ZEKE: I’m Batman.

WHITE:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

ZEKE: The 2007 Double T Red wine is always well stocked at my house.

WHITE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

ZEKE: Drink what you like and don’t be afraid to explore your local wine shop. Be adventurous and don’t let your preconceptions keep you from trying a wine.

WHITE: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

ZEKE: If I am disregarding price and availability, I would also like to disregard the space-time continuum and travel back 130 years to taste the Bordeaux of long ago.

WHITE: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

ZEKE: What is my favorite color? It is green.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

ZEKE: This interview will self-destruct in 5. . . 4 . . . 3 . . . 2 . . .

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trefethen Family Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: A Higher Expression

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional Premier Cru white Burgundy

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Domaine Roger Belland

Wine Subject: 2005 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Champs-Gains’ Premier Cru

Winemaker: Roger and Julie Belland

Backgrounder:

While California is well known for the ubiquitous Chardonnay, this grape finds its highest form of expression in France’s Cote de Beaune communes of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, where we find our self today. The Premier Crus of Puligny-Montrachet represent Chardonnay of exceptional finesse and elegance with deeply complex but subtle aromas and flavors. Located about 10 miles south of Beaune along the N74, are most influenced by the cooler and wetter climate and its limestone soil.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep yellow with bright gold reflections through its crystal clear core. When swirled, this wine leaves slow widely spaced legs that descend to the wine below at random speeds.

Smell – Complex and refined, this subtle aromatic wine shows hints of white flowers, toasted nuts, chalky minerality and honey over a base of bright citrus fruits.

Feel – Medium to full-bodied with extremely well integrated and balanced tannins and acidity that support the array of flavors long into the finish. Slightly creamy in texture but not overly weighted with a touch of minerality.

Taste – Deceptively complex flavors hide just underneath generously sweet and lively citrus and peach fruit and subtle fresh honey flavors. A touch of persistent minerality, rich toasted nuts, delicate vanilla and oak.

Finish – Clean and persistent with lingering fruit and other harmonious flavors that emerge and fade into the next flavor.

Conclusion – I wouldn’t call the 2005 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Champs-Gains’ Premier Cru austere, as this wine’s sleek elegance and subtlety emerges as you explore its depth of aromas and flavors fully. Extremely well balanced and integrated, this is a delicious Chardonnay that really delivers. Enjoy this wine now or cellar for the next 10-15 years. Pair this opulent wine with simple grilled lobster – it doesn’t get any better than that! Divine…

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of Agent White’s and Blush’s recent visit to Burgundy.

… December 2008 – East Central France, Côte-d’Or department …

We began the day early as we wanted to hit the Route des Grand Crus with lots of time to enjoy the food and especially the wine. Zipping through the back roads from our safe house in Bar Sur Aube(south end of the Champagne region) to Dijon at this hour was fast but just outside of Dijon, we started to hit the normal business day traffic. Thankfully, the GPS devise in my handheld spy communicator quickly re-routed us around and soon we were headed south through some of the finest vineyards in all of Burgundy.

The N74, or Route de Dijon as its known officially but wine aficionados know this as the Route de Grand Crus. We slowed down and started taking it all in. The names of each commune and village familiar to anyone who has spent time in the French section of a good wine shop. The vineyards, this time of year, bare, with a slight fog resting in the lower valleys, and along the tops of the hills to the west. A slight drizzle fell creating an almost surreal experience as the fog and low clouds moved with the weather exposing and then rehiding these prized vineyards.

After our lunch in Beaune, Agent Blush and I had the chance to explore some of the smaller communes that overlooked the valley and in particular, the historic village of Puligny-Montrachet with is many Premier Cru vineyards that are famous for exceptional white Burgundy. Puligny-Montrachet is located just about a ten miles south of Beaune. The white wines from Puligny-Montrachet are truly representative of the purity, finesse and elegance that Burgundy is known for.

Quite simply, this is the life. While you may not have been able to join us on the Holiday in Beaune, today’s selection from Domaine Roger Belland will at least give you a small bit of the flavor of the trip!

A votre sante!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the village of Puligny-Montrachet can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: LaZarre Focused

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a limited allocation of the legendary Pinot made by Adam LaZarre

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: LaZarre Wines

Wine Subject: 2007 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley

Winemaker: Adam LaZarre

Backgrounder:

California’s Central Coast region, and specifically Santa Barbara and San Luis Obisbo County has become one of the state’s premier regions for Pinot Noir. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in Pinot of exceptional purity.

Adam LaZarre, while he is officially the winemaker for Villa San-Juliette Winery (and formerly from Hahn Estates and their affiliated labels) has been making super-premium, limited quantity Pinot for years and has elevated his skill to an art form. Always an operative favorite, this wine is well worth tasting.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet, with sparkling Burgundy edges and a perfect clarity through its slightly darkening heart. When swirled, the wine shows a bouncy surface that settles quickly, leaving behind wide-spaced clusters of branching skinny legs that streak down the edges of the glass

Smell – Lush and warm with layers of fruit and earthy goodness, including black cherry, ripe raspberry and smoky cranberry, with darker mixed berries, soft leather, soft spice of cinnamon and soft clovey gunpowder

Feel – Medium-weight and soft up front, then wet and tender on the mid-palate where soft tannins gently grip in with a soft minerality. The wine coats the mouth and then settles in, where complexity of feel and flavor are revealed at the top of the mouth and all over the tongue

Taste – Balanced, youthful and delicious with ripe red cherry and strawberry leading the way. These flavors linger as smoky and dark mixed berries mingle with soft oak, mild spice, leather and minerals

Finish – A long and full finish that starts off sweet and then tails off to slightly tart, with dusky fruit flavors that linger on and on

Conclusion – This is a fantastic Pinot Noir from one of our very favorite winemakers. We have developed a wonderful friendship with Adam LaZarre and we are blessed with special previews of his newest wines. We have featured a handful of Adam’s wines and we have always, always been impressed and delighted. Today’s 2007 Bien Nacido Pinot Noir is another fantastic Pinot Noir, a varietal that Adam LaZarre seems to enjoy perfect stewardship of – rather than control over. This wine is a very delicious delight that is also very food friendly, and very flexible. I tried something daring with my sample bottle; I paired it with pork fried rice that I added curry powder to. This was a risky pairing, but you know what? It worked beautifully! The wine held up amazingly, actually enhancing the experience. Each brought out additional flavors in the other! This is a perfect companion to a fine meal, but it also makes a complex and conversation-enticing solo-sipping wine. Enjoy!

Mission Report:

The call came in at 2AM, thinking to myself, this had better be good. Wiping my eyes, I answered the phone. The voice at the other end of the line, using a voice scramble, said to meet at the Playboy Mansion in 30 minutes, use name ’Agent Orange’ to get in. While Hef’s place is just around the corner you just can’t show up without looking good. You never know who you might run into.

A speed record breaking shower, quick shave and I threw on my tux, grabbed my spy gear and rushed out the door. I arrived with just seconds to spare.

As always, the party was just getting started so I walked up to the extremely large doorman/bouncer and only said ‘Agent Orange’. Fully expecting a thorough ass-whooping, I tried to hide the flinch of my body as he reached out his hand.

“Right this way, sir…”, as he forcefully gestured me to enter the house. I was lead past dozens of people and carefully treaded over the many a tongue hanging out at the amazing beauty that surrounded me,.. the house silly – what were you thinking?. Thankfully, Agent Blush wasn’t there to supervise me. We reached the back yard and we walked through the gardens to the far side of the swimming pool which was full of lovely eye-candy.

Just before reaching the grotto I saw a familiar face, wearing his trademark dark sunglasses (even though it was now 2:45AM). With a big smile on his face, our good friend and winemaker extraordinaire Adam LaZarre reached out his hand and gave me a big hug.

“I thought you’d like this party”, he said as I nodded with approval at the exceptional scenery, just as I was about to ask why the late notice, Adam thrusted a glass of wine into my hand, almost splashing it onto my neatly pressed white shirt, and said “you MUST taste my new Pinot, It couldn’t wait”.

I took a long sip and trying to hide my excitement (which was already brimming, considering the location), put on the best contemplative face I could. Must not have worked very well, since he just raised up his hand in a ‘High five’ gesture and said ”REDACTED AWESOME!”. He continued, “Exclusive for your Wine Spies Operatives, if you want it, but don’t wait too long, The Rockstar is Back!, and I can’t hold it back forever you know.”

It was indeed awesome, in fact beyond awesome – perhaps one of the nicest Pinot I’ve tasted this year. As we sat there enjoying the party, we quickly polished off the stash of his amazing Pinot Noir. While I can’t get you into the Playboy Mansion, this wine is even better. Enjoy!

Mission Codename: O.M.D.

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Paso Robles, uncover a stellar red blend, secure an amply supply for our blend-thirsty Operatives around the U.S.A.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: D’Anbino Family Cellars

Wine Subject: Orchestration Paso Robles Red Blend

Winemaker: Carmine Rubino

Backgrounder: Paso Robles has long been established as a wine producing region that give other California regions a run for their money. With a climate and soils that make for perfect growing conditions for grapes, it is no wonder. Winemakers in Paso are a somewhat unique breed, often declaring themselves to be the renegades of Cali wine. Read Agent Reds review, followed by his interview with winemaker Carmine Rubino

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful dark garnet with an inky dark heart of almost Burgundy. The wine has a taught and springy surface that settles down fast – but continues to spin – after swirling, leaving behind thick legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – Full intensity with deeply aromatic black and red fruits, highlighting plum, dark mixed berry, cherry, cassis and raspberry. These mingle with shaved chocolate, cedar and aromatic black tea

Feel – Tender and fine on the attack, then the wine goes almost immediately to medium-bodied with a rich and layered mid-palate complexity that adds weight and dimension to the feel. This wine evolves, coating the mouth and adding dryness as it reveals additional earthen flavors of dark fruit

Taste – Dark, juicy and ripe, with delicious flavors that mirror the nose. This wine leads off with dark cherry and then reveals mixed berries, plum and raspberry. These are balanced against earthy flavors of sweetwoods, dusky sandalwood, and mild spice

Finish – Ultra-long, rich and dusky with flavors that evolve and change in the mouth. New flavors are revealed as initial flavors tail off tenderly

Conclusion – This is a delicious example of great winemaking from California’s emerging Paso Robles region. This wine has so much to offer, starting with bold but pretty aromatic, and continuing through an evolution of changing flavors that coat the mouth and add complexity and character. Flavors are perfectly integrated and the feel is really intriguing, as it, too, evolves on the palate – right alongside the flavors. I am a big fan of Paso wines, and this wine reinforces my love of wines from the region. This wine gets a big recommendation. Enjoy!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Carmine Rubino

DATE OF BIRTH: September, 1941

PLACE OF BIRTH: New Jersey

WINE EDUCATION: On the job training!

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Loved drinking wine all my life, planted a vineyard 15 years ago and started a winery, now I love making it too.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Food-friendly & approachable

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Syrah, Blends

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Playing bass with the D’Anbino Family Band

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”I’m as passionate about the art wine as I am about the art of music.”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mister Rubino. We are thrilled to be showing your outstanding Orchestral today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Thanks for having us!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: Growing up, our big Italian family would get together every Sunday for dinner. There was always homemade wine at the table and all of us musicians in the family would play music (that’s us on the label). There’s a lot of good memories and nostalgia for me related to wine. After a long career in the music business, it was natural to return to something so enjoyable.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

CARMINE: Shadowing the winemakers we hired when we first started making wine. I learned the ropes and decided to do things my way, though we do still bring in consulting winemakers at key points. The idea is to get second and third opinions and weigh the options. That way I can gauge my own opinions against others I respect in the wine industry.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

CARMINE: Approachable and food-friendly. We’re making wine to drink with dinner, and drink with friends. We also want to make wine you can enjoy the same night you buy it, but if you do decide to cellar it, you’ll be rewarded.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CARMINE: No one wine or winemaker comes to mind – there are so many outstanding winemakers in Paso Robles. I do my best to take a little from everyone and be open minded.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

CARMINE: Our first vintage was in 2001.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

CARMINE: I make wine I would enjoy drinking myself, but we get the whole family involved when it comes time to blend. We hope many others out there share our taste. Also, I don’t worry about impressing judges or winning awards, but just try and make the best tasting wine possible. This sometimes means defying the many stigmas of how a great wine is supposed to be made or what it’s supposed to say on the label.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Paso Robles region so special?

CARMINE: Paso Robles is interesting in that there are so many different microclimates; so many elevations, landscapes, soils, moisture levels, wind flows, etc. And also so many ideas of how to approach grape growing and winemaking. It’s really an exciting area and a breeding ground for the next great thing in wine.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

CARMINE: An apprenticeship in vineyards is very helpful to get ideas of different growing techniques. It all starts in the vineyard, of course. Then be a “cellar rat”. There’s no better training than being around great winemakers doing their thing.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CARMINE: Just babying the wine. You really have to give it a lot of TLC right from the moment it’s harvested to the moment it goes into the bottle to the moment it hits your lips. It’s a living thing and needs to be cared for as such.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

CARMINE: Orchestration is a blend of mostly Syrah, with Cabernet and a bit of Petite Sirah to make things a little richer. It’s called Orchestration because that is the musical process of combining very different instruments to make one cohesive sound. This blend is smooth and complex, and liked by many who don’t typically like Syrah.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

CARMINE: One of the unique things we do at our tasting room is pair our wines with music as well as food. The Family Band (the one you see on the label) performs the song live while you sample the wine. With our Orchestration we do a musical number that’s smooth and sexy but with a bit of pep, just like the wine. At home, I would recommend pairing Orchestration with “Sway”, or “Harlem Nocturne” if you’re into the standards. If you like something a bit more modern try some John Mayer or Joss Stone. It’ll put you in the right mood to make the wine taste great.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

CARMINE: I used to mix records into Quadraphonic, a predecessor of surround sound in the late 70’s (and now the name of one of our wine blends). I mixed “Imagine” into Quad and Lennon used to call me the “Quadfather”.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

CARMINE: Whatever’s left over at the tasting room.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

CARMINE: With an attitude of enjoyment. As a family of Italians that all played instruments, wine always came with food, of course, but also great company of family and friends, and the celebration of music. At our tasting room, we re-create this environment to show our guests that it’s not just about the wine itself but how it fits in to a whole experience. Of course each element of the experience needs to be top notch, but combined, the wine and food tastes even better, the music sounds even better, and the company is even warmer.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

CARMINE: There’s no one wine I would choose. That’s the whole fun of it – discovering something new every day.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

CARMINE: “How do you remain so humble while making such amazing wines?” Answer: “I have no idea. Who are you, again?”

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

CARMINE: Thank you. I hope I didn’t blow it.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the vineyard where today’s wine was born can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Leaving everything to Chance

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Clos La Chance and secure an ample allocation of their

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Clos La Chance

Wine Subject: 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Whitestone Vineyard

Winemaker: Stephen Tebb

Backgrounder: California’s Central Coast region has become recognized as one of the state’s up and coming regions for Cabernet Sauvignon. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in Cabernet of exceptional character

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet with a concentrated heart of darker plum-garnet. When swirled, the wine shows a heavy and tight surface whose core continues to spin before finally settling down. The moment you stop swirling, ropey legs are fast to emerge, thinning as they run quickly down the glass

Smell – Bold, big and complex, with an intense opening rush of dusky dark cherry, black currant, blackberry and bramble. These sit atop delightfully authentic eucalyptus, soft cedar, anise and subtle oaky vanilla with soft spice

Feel – Soft and wet on the initial attack. The wine is the fast-moving across the mid-palate, where it grips in gently, drying just behind the tip of the tongue and then extending through the mouth to the cheeks and lips

Taste -This wine begins darkly fruity and dusky with juicy flavors of black cherry, overripe blackberry, currant and black plum with dark chocolate and natural cola

Finish – Starts dusky and dark and then finishes sweeter and softly tart with dark fruit flavors that linger for a long time

Conclusion – This is a boldly delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that delights every sense. With a brightness that is balanced beautifully against its darker character, this wine keeps everything in perfect harmony. This wine gives Napa Cabs a run for their money, delivering an experience that is balanced, food-friendly, rich and robust. This wine is also a great solo-drinker that the most demanding Cabernet lovers are sure to enjoy!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Stephen Tebb, Director of Winemaking Operations for Clos LaChance Wines

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis, Fermentation Science BS

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Prior to CLC, Assistant Winemaker of Artesa Vineyards & Winery, Six years with Cordorniu, Enologist, Prior-Mirrasou Vineyards and Chateau St. Jean

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Ultimately, I seek continuity between the vinification process and viticultural activities. I like to bring forth all the elements that the vineyard has imparted upon the fruit in order to allow the characteristics and complexity of the wine to illustrate the unique contribution each site has to offer. Whether as a stand-alone varietal or as a blend, the most important focus of wine production is on the vineyard.
Once the farming methods are optimized at the proper site with individualized attention to each block, the winemaker’s job becomes one of ‘getting out of the way,’ gently steering the course of fermentation and aging. I emphasize gentle handling of the fruit utilizing the gravity flow features of the winery and fermentation of small lots in both open top and closed top fermentors. The attention to the cap management strategy during fermentation is unique to each lot of grapes and is important in obtaining the levels of extraction appropriate for that lot.

Aging takes place with little manipulation in oak barrels that are employed to frame the wine and add layers of depth and richness to the ripe fruit aromas and flavors obtained in the vineyard. All lots are kept separate during fermentation and aging to allow for evaluation specific to each vineyard site and its performance in the cellar. In blending, I take a traditional approach, yet seek to create a wine that encompasses the full range of aromas and flavors that are the hallmarks of a great wine.

To me, winemaking is utilizing a product of the land to create an experience of the senses that enhances quality of life.”

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Meritage and Cabernet Sauvignon

AGENT RED: Greetings, Stephen. We are thrilled to be showing your Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

STEPHEN: Hello Agent Red. Thanks for having me and I’m happy to answer any questions you may have to help you on your mission.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

STEPHEN: My experience at wineries, through working with knowledgeable winemakers and peers. They showed me passion in their winemaking and the passion seemed to carry on to me.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

STEPHEN: To me, winemaking is utilizing a product of the land to create an experience of the land to create an experience of the senses that enhances quality of life.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: Over 20 years.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

STEPHEN: Mainly Clos LaChance consumers and myself. The production crew and I try our best to stay consistent with the Hummingbird Series wines and with the Estate and Special Selection Series, the barrel room is like my playground. I like to try out new blends and see what others think of it.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Santa Clara Valley so special?

STEPHEN: Centuries ago, the land was used for farming. There are several wineries in the area with great wines. The flavors are unique and unexpected. Not to many know of the SCV, but need to come and check it out.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

STEPHEN: Work a harvest in production. If you feel the passion within, pursue it.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

STEPHEN: HARVEST!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

STEPHEN: This is the first vintage of the Whitestone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard is located along the perimeter of the facility in San Martin, CA. Big cab with great fruit. I hope you enjoy it.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

STEPHEN: Prime Rib!

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

STEPHEN: Viognier

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

STEPHEN: Try it, you might like it.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

STEPHEN: What is special about Clos LaChance? Family-owned. I work closely on a day-to-day basis with the Murphy Family and enjoy it. My co-workers I feel are my family too.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

STEPHEN: Thank you so much.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Clos La Chance winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: The Lords and Ladies of Rutherford

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Infiltrate Raymond Vineyards and acquire their exceptional Rutherford Merlot.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Raymond Vineyard & Cellar

Wine Subject: 2005 Rutherford Merlot

Winemaker: Walter Raymond

Backgrounder: Raymond Vineyards, located in Napa Valley’s Rutherford AVA was founded in 1971, by one of America’s first-families of wine, the Raymond family. In the United States, ‘multi-generational’ in wine-making usually means two or three generations have been involved in crafting wines. Kristi Raymond, whose great grandfather was wine-making pioneer, Jacob Beringer, is a fifth generation winemaker and head of wine-making for Raymond today.

The Rutherford AVA is among the most famous names in the valley and is primarily know for its exceptional Merlot. Located just south of St. Helena, Raymond’s slogan is Powerful Wines – Deep Roots. After you taste this wine, you’ll understand that its more than a slogan, its a way of life.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple with garnet and ruby tints that shine through the dark but clear core. The color remains deep along the edges and when swirled, evenly spaced thin legs streak down the side of the glass.

Smell – Medium in intensity with classic Merlot aromas of rich red and black fruit layered over toasted oak, subtle herbal and floral hints, dark chocolate, spice, vanilla and dark minerals.

Feel – Soft and round, this full-bodied classic is rich and chewy with mouth coating tannins and well balanced acidity. The finely grained textured tannins cling to the tip of the tongue and linger long into the finish.

Taste – Rich and juicy red and black fruit including blackberry and both black and red cherry and currants are integrated with toasted oak and vanilla. Soft herbal, floral and spice notes layer with dark chocolate cocoa powder and hints of dusty minerality.

Finish – The wine finishes long and clean with its classic Rutherford minerality and structure leading the way and supporting its rich fruit and other complex flavors making he mouth yearn for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Raymond Vineyard & Cellar Rutherford Merlot shows exceptional depth and purity of its classic Rutherford fruit. This Merlot (with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in) will instantly appeal to lovers of both Merlot and Cabernet. Rich fruit, complex layers of aromas and flavors that linger long into the finish, a structure that holds on tight, this wine is quite memorable.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Walter Raymond

DATE OF BIRTH: March 1943

PLACE OF BIRTH: St. Helena, California – It’s true, I am the 4th generation in my family to make wine in Napa Valley!

WINE EDUCATION: Mostly scraped knees, but I also attended Cal Poly in SLO and studied business.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: I got my start in the family business at Beringer when I was just a kid. I rejoined the business after college and made wine at Beringer until we started Raymond Vineyard & Cellar in 1970. We bought 90 acres and had to plant vineyard, so our first harvest was in 1974.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Generally speaking I believe that great wines start in the vineyard. Location, soil type and vine health are all critical to growing quality fruit. After that the winemaking is easy!

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Starting Raymond Vineyard & Cellar in 1970 with my family – my parents, my wife and children and my brother and his family.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Having the 5th generation join the family business

AGENT RED: Greetings, Walter. What a pleasure it is to meet with you today! We are thrilled to be showing your . Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WALTER: Thank you for sharing our Rutherford Merlot with your favorite consumers!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WALTER: I am one of the lucky ones – I grew up in the business, so it was early exposure that inspired me. I joke around that I am unemployable outside the industry! RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

WALTER: On the job really. Every vintage is different and presents new opportunities and challenges. The vintners in Napa really work together, share information and help each other make better wines – it is a fun way to learn. RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

WALTER: Well, I love to plan, prepare and enjoy meals with my family – and wine is a key ingredient at our table. So, I would say I have tended to make wines in a style that pairs very well with food – fruit driven and full bodied, with balanced tannins and oak. RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WALTER: I do not have an “influential” story for you! I have found that making wines year after year from the same vineyards has had the biggest influence on my winemaking style – you learn from the vineyard and build expectations and make winemaking decisions based on experience and knowing what flavors you are trying to get from each lot.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

WALTER: 45 years – and that is amazing since I am still in my 30’s! I got my start at Beringer as a teenager and we are just finishing up my 36th harvest as winemaker at Raymond.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WALTER: I would have to say I make it for the consumers that have enjoyed our wines for years – we have a style that you can taste all the way back to our 1974 vintage – balanced wines that pair very well with food!

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley, and Rutherford so special?

WALTER: Napa Valley, and the Rutherford Appellation in particular, has amazing soil and very consistent weather for growing wine grapes year in and year out. RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WALTER: While education is important, on the job experience at wineries that produce the varietals you are interested in making and drinking!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WALTER: We are just wrapping up harvest today – the next month will involve finishing up fermentations and getting our wines into barrels.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WALTER: The Merlot from our Rutherford estate is a personal favorite – it is very full bodied and lush, and pairs really well with food.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WALTER: Well my favorite is a juicy grilled steak – but bbq’d ribs or braised meats are always great too!

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WALTER: Sauvignon Blanc is a favorite in my house, but bubbly is very popular!

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WALTER: Relax and enjoy them – don’t worry about descriptions or ratings. Wine is personal, so if you like what you are tasting don’t let someone tell you it isn’t good! Just drink it!

RED: Great advice! If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WALTER: Something with bubbles!

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WALTER: Question: What do you do when you are not making wine? Answer: I love to travel with my wife and if I’m home, I enjoying kicking back in my Lazy Boy and raiding the fridge!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you today – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WALTER: Thank you!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Raymond Vineyards and Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Kiss My Grits!

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Dashe Cellars and acquire their Florence Vineyard Zinfandel

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Dashe Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Florence Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: Michael and Anne Dashe

Backgrounder:

The lush Dry Creek Valley, in Sonoma County, is home to some of our most favorite wineries. A still and beautiful place the Dry Creek Valley is fertile, lush and abundant with vineyards that produce an astonishing range of wines. From creek-side low-lying vineyards to those at higher elevations, the variety of flavors and styles – even among a particular varietal – is astounding.

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley_ Zinfandel, which are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and deep purple with violet tints through its dark almost black core and along the edges. When swirled, this springy wine leaves slow fat legs along the side of the glass.

Smell – Bold, but not overpowering in intensity with rich aromas of spiced dark fruit including plum, blackberry and cassis with layers of floral violet, dried bramble herbs and a touch of mocha.

Feel – Rich and round, this plush dry wine is full-bodied with finely grained tannins and balanced acidity. Textured dusty minerality and a touch of spice preset on the tip and sides of the tongue as well.

Taste – Expansive flavors of black and red fruit including blackberry, plum, raspberry and cassis lead off with notes of well integrated exotic spice and pepper. Subtle oak, mocha and both herbal and floral hints from the nose linger and add to the overall complexity of this wine.

Finish – Long and persistent with flavors of dark bramble berries and dusty minerality that linger and make the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Dashe Cellars Florence Vineyard Dry Creek Valley is a fine example of why Dry Creek Valley is so beloved for Zinfandel. Rich and plush with elegant complexity of aroma and flavors that are well supported by a rich and plush structure. We enjoyed this wine with some expectational French goat (Selle-sur-Cher by P. Jacquin) cheese and fresh figs. Give this wine some time to open up to fully reveal all of its exceptional flavors.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Michael Dashe

DATE OF BIRTH: 12/21/1957

PLACE OF BIRTH: Spokane WA

WINE EDUCATION: Masters of Science, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Schramsburg Wine Cellars, Far Niente Winery, Ridge Vineyards (Assistant Winemaker 1990—1998), Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Cloudy Bay Winery (New Zealand)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Natural winemaking: We use exclusively Native Yeast fermentations, gentle racking to French oak barrels, no fining, limited filtration, etc. We source from wonderful small family-owned vineyards, and search out Old Vine Zinfandel, exclusively from Sonoma County.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Old Vine Zinfandel; Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Working as Assistant Winemaker for Paul Draper at Ridge Vineyards for almost nine years. A university in Natural Winemaking!

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Working as an intern for four months at Chateau Lafite Rothschild in Bordeaux. An incredible learning experience.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Don’t be influenced by anyone’s taste buds but your own….”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Michael. I must say that it is a real pleasure to finally be showing your wine. I have been a fan since founding The Wine Spies a few years ago. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MICHAEL: It’s my pleasure.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MICHAEL: I’ve loved wine from early on—but after I started working for the Roudin-Smith winery in Santa Cruz when I was a student at UC Santa Cruz I was hooked.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MICHAEL: Without a question, the two wineries Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Ridge Vineyards. Two of my favorite wineries in the world!

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MICHAEL: We do everything possible to not interfere with the natural process of winemaking. We use native yeast fermentations, and natural winemaking techniques.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MICHAEL: Paul Draper at Ridge Vineyards is a master blender, and philosopher of winemaking.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

MICHAEL: I started in 1979. A long time ago!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MICHAEL: I definitely make wines that are of a kind that my wife (and co-winemaker) Anne and I like to drink—so I guess we make the wines to please our palates. We try to be true to the varietals and the vineyards. Of course, we’ve attracted customers who like our style of wine. We’ve been lucky that way.

RED: Tell me, what makes Sonoma County so special for wine growing?

MICHAEL: I love Sonoma County and the Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys in particular. They just have a great climate for making incredibly balanced and complex wines. The influence of the ocean isn’t too far away, so the area cools down and keeps the acidity in the wines in balance with the fruit. I just love how the Dry Creek Valley looks, too—it reminds me of how upper Napa Valley looked decades ago—beautiful and not too overbuilt.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MICHAEL: Be ready to work your tail off for decades….and enjoy the ride. Don’t do it for money and glory!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MICHAEL: Putting the wines to bed after harvest: finishing up our fermentations and pressing, and putting wine into barrels. I now am using some large format barrels—I have three 900 gallon barrels that I love working with—as well as 120 gallon puncheons that help me make these lovely, velvety textured wines. I love experimenting with new vineyards and tasting the wines for the first time. Each vineyard has a different personality, and we enjoy making the vineyard shine through the wine flavors.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MICHAEL: These are vines that were grown from cuttings of some the most famous Zinfandel vines in the state. The grower, Jack Florence, is a real artisan grower. He keeps the yields of the vines very low, and the clone has these tiny berries that concentrate the flavors. You’ll be truly impressed with the aromas of the wine—it just jumps from the glass with this incredible black raspberry, floral, spicy aromas.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MICHAEL: Grilled lamb or a rich stew, or a pasta dish with a really rich sauce.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MICHAEL: I got into this business because I used to dive for abalone off the coast of California. It led me into the business and now I’ve worked on three continents in wineries.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MICHAEL: I actually drink lots of wines from the Loire Valley, which are extremely approachable and lovely wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MICHAEL: Just savor the aromas, flavors, and especially the texture of the wine. It’s like liquid velvet—extremely smooth, balanced, and complex.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MICHAEL: A thirty year old Clos Ste. Hune Riesling. Too good for words.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MICHAEL: How did you manage to snag the beautiful and talented French winemaker Anne Dashe to start a winery with you? Answer: Persistence.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MICHAEL: Again, my pleasure, Agent Red.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Family Wineries Dry Creek Valley Tasting Room where Dashe Cellar’s wines can be tasted can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Return to The Eastern Slopes

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: In 2008, Burgess’ 2004 Syrah became our fastest-selling Syrah of all time. Send Agent Red to rendezvous with Steve Burgess where he is to procure samples of today’s 2005 Burgess Syrah. While meeting with Steve Burgess, bestow upon him his own official Wine Spies Agent Name

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Burgess Vineyard

Wine Subject: 2005 Syrah

Winemaker: Bill Sorenson

Backgrounder: Our Operatives love a great Syrah, and they snap them up in record numbers. Today’s Syrah is a beautiful and delicious interpretation of the noble varietal. The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a big and bold delight with richly dark flavors, deep aromatics and a plush mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby red, with a darker core and concentrated color out to the edge of the glass. On swirling, this wine shows a springy and fast-settling surface. When the wine does settle, it leaves behind tight clusters of skinny legs

Smell – Fruit forward, lush and red, with layers of Bing black cherry, raspberry and red plum leading the way. These are followed by blackberry, plum, earth, oak and spice. All of these sit atop softer hints of cedar and smoked meats

Feel – Medium weight at the tip of the tongue, then the wine settles in all over the palate with a voluptuous feel. After a few moments, fine medium-grained tannins show up, drying the lips and cheeks as mouth is coated with rich flavors

Taste – Delicious and rich, a blend of the fruit from the nose, mingled with darker flavors of dried meats, smoky mixed berry, smoky oak and soft black licorice. These are followed by hints of spice, subtle dark herbs and dark minerals

Finish – Leads off with big red and black fruit flavors which seem to linger for a long time before they begin to fade gradually. The wine begins dark and smoky-fruity, then tails off with more earth and dark minerals

Conclusion – We absolutely adored the 2004 vintage of this wine – but we are in love this vintage of the wine! I love tasting successive vintages of the wines we review; It is one of the blessings of this vocation as a Wine Spy. 2005 was a cooler year than 2004, and this produced some dramatic differences and imbuing this particular wine with a distinctly more Rhone qualities than the previous vintage. Our spy hats are, once again, off to Burgess. Each vintage seems to be better than the last, and that is really saying a lot. Burgess is one of the oldest wineries in St. Helena and their years of experience shines through with this beautiful wine. If you loved the 2004, you’ll adore today’s 2005!

Mission Report:

What follows is Agent Red’s first encounter with Burgess Cellars. Now that we have a mole deep within the Burgess organization, procuring specials like today’s pre-release allotment is a snap. Please enjoy this mission recap:

In which Agent Red has enjoyed a few glasses of today’s 2004 Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon – and finds himself waxing poetic. Or does he?

Ode to Burgess and their fanTAStic Cabernet Sauvignon

Millenial
Generational
Dedication
Preservation

Your wines appeal
they make us feel
a connection
to the Mountain Howell

Maceration
Vinification
Fermentation
Mere words
The true soul of your wine shines
in the tall pours that I desire

Succulent
Juicy
Delicious
Bright fruit
Deep roots
Your Cab is beyond compare

In which Agent Cuvee, sensing that Agent Red is not the Pablo Neruda of wine, steps in and stops Agent Red from writing any more _poetry.

Okay, Red, put down the pen and go get some rest. I got this one.

Greeting Dear Operatives. Agent Red had to, umm, leave. I’m taking over this briefing.

All of us here at Wine Spies Central Command agree: Bill Sorenson is a winemaker of remarkable talent. All of his wines shine with a uniqueness and distinctiveness and all of his wines taste great. The fantastic Howelll Mountain fruit grown on the Burgess estate doesn’t hurt, either.

We recently had the great fortune to taste through all of his current release red wines and it was his Cab that really stood out as our favorite. With bright fruit, a tender mouth feel and a rich finish, this wine is not a massive monster Cab that bullies your senses. This is a refined wine that is real pleasure to spend quality time with.

During our tasting, we found ourselves discussing this wine at length. It was really interesting to pull apart and describe in detail all of the aromas and flavors that the wine conveys. With its bright acidity, we suspect that the wine would pair nicely with most anything. We were hoping to enjoy it with the meal we had planned for later that evening, but Agent Red seemed to have enjoyed most of the remaining bottle, leaving none for our dinner. Alas. At least it led to some poetry that we can tease him about – once he returns from his latest mission!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Burgess Cellars in Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mission Codename: Roman Holiday Redux

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Follow Up on Agent Baco’s Italian Escapades

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Tenuta della Luia

Wine Subject: 2003 Rosso di Toscana – Super Tuscan

Winemaker: Fabrizio Moltard

Backgrounder:

In just the last decade, Super Tuscans became the latest rage in Italian wine in the United States, however, their story goes back to the late 1940s when the famed Sassicaia wine was reportedly made by Incisa della Rochetta using Cabernet Sauvignon vines from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, or so the legend goes. Now Super Tuscans are the ‘Bordeaux’ of West-Central Italy, expertly blended with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and often Merlot, Colorino and other local grape varietals.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark garnet purple with ruby red reflections through its dark but clear core. Along the edges the color lightens slightly to ruby and then pink. When swirled, widely spaced thin legs streak down the glass followed by slower fatter legs that hang showing hints of this wine’s color.

Smell – Medium in intensity with aromas of dark black and red fruit including black cherry and black berry. Complex notes of exotic spice, herbal bramble black peppercorn and oak are interlaced with subtle hints of fennel and vanilla caramel.

Feel – This full-bodied wine is warm, smooth and dry with bright but balanced acidity and finely grained mouth gripping and textured masculine tannins. (Do let this wine open up prior to service as it shows tightly initially.)

Taste – Rich and intense red and black fruit including Italian cherry, black cherry and other bramble berries with herbal and earthy notes. Exotic spice, licorice and black pepper layered over subtle toasted oak and hints of vanilla and zesty tar adds to the overall appeal of this wine.

Finish – Long and clean with rich red fruit and spice framed by this wine’s distinct Italian textured feel that continues to show its warmth and invite another sip.

Conclusion – Quite simply, this is one of the most delicious Super Tuscans we have tasted this year. It shows all of the varietal characteristics of the component grapes as well as the synergy of the blend. It is warm, rich, smooth, well balanced and integrated in flavor, texture and finish. If you are fan of Italian wine, this is one to get as Tenuta della Luia will soon be the highlight of many a wine-list in the top restaurants.

Mission Report:

Here is a recap of the mission report presented when we first discovered Tenuta della Luia.

The last time I was in Italy, it was to check up on Agent Baco. HQ had thought she had been compromised. How could it that Baco could consistently find us great wine after great wine. She had to be on the take. She had been on paid administrative leave ever since.

While the investigation is still pending, word has it that she will be reinstated shortly. I wanted to deliver the news personally, so while passing through Rome, I took the short train trip to Florence where I new I could find her. She was known to frequent the Acquo ai Due on the Piazza San Firenze in the old city.

As expected, she was there, not sipping an espresso but with a bottle of wine on the table. (May I say, it was nearly empty – but I am glad to have arrived when I did so I could taste the last glass). The wine happened to be the 2003 Tenuta della Luia Rosso di Toscana. After taking my first sip, I knew why Baco had that sly smile on her face.

“I was wondering when you would show up,” she said, passing a piece of paper with some notes scribbled on it, “I almost polished this off without you.” “How did you know?” I asked. “Agent Blush told me you had some news for me, and I know you well enough that you like to personally deliver messages.” So much for keeping covert cover. “You’d better go soon, Alessandro (Alessandro Gori, the owner of Tenuta della Luia) is waiting for you. I figured you’d like to meet him.”

With that, Baco got up, fixed her sunglasses and skirt and walked off towards the Palazzo…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Tenita della Luia Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.