2006 Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery ‘Christina’ Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The very special Christina

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friends at Marimar Estate an abscond with their limited release ‘Christina’ Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 ‘Christina’ Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Marimar Torres

Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the Russian River Valley ideal for growing Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVAwas officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and densely ruby red with a dark but clear core. Slightly more pale ruby along the edges and when swirled, tightly spaced fat and color stained legs thin as they race down the side of the glass.

Smell – Rich and aromatic red and black fruit, and specifically dark ripe cherry along with strawberry-rhubarb pie, including the brown spice. Soft earthy notes, toasted oak and aromatic wood, exotic spice, black tea and a touch of cola also fill out the broad nose of this wine.

Feel – Smooth and plush on the initial attack, this full-bodied and dry wine has round tannins and expands on the palate with its vibrant acidity and smoothly textured minerality hitting at mid palate and lingers long.

Taste – Full, ripe and plump flavors of red and black cherry and long with other sweet and ripe red fruit. Sentimental brown and exotic spice, soft earthy undertones, toasted vanilla oak, cola and black tea hints.

Finish – Long and plush with the rich fruit lingering long as all the pleasing but complex notes of spice, earth, cola and other flavors all fade in unison.

Conclusion – This 2006 ‘Christina’ Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is an amazing wine for the autumn! Great red fruit, sentimental brown and exotic spice, plush and warm on the palate. Generous aromas and flavors – simply a lovely wine that is drinking perfectly right now. Pick up a few bottles for your harvest dinners or to bring along as you enjoy the colors of the season.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Marimar Torres

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Founder and Proprietor, Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Produce a wine as an extension on farming the vineyard; we don’t have a winemaker because the grapes make the wines; they are our stars. Our job and our philosophy is to guide, or “shepherd” the grapes into expressing best the fruit of our vineyards.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1991

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Marimar. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 “La Masía” Chardonnay today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MARIMAR TORRES: I hope everyone who reads this will come visit our winery, we love to receive visitors!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MARIMAR: My family has grown grapes and made wine in Spain since the 17th century – I think that wine is in my blood!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MARIMAR: Probably DRC!

RED: Wow, that’s some influence! For our Operatives that don’t know, “DRC” is an abbreviation for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which is an estate in Burgundy, France that produces white and red wine. It is widely considered among the world’s greatest wine producers, and DRC bottles are among the world’s most expensive. It takes its name from the domaine’s most famous vineyard, Romanée-Conti.
Tell me, Marimar, who do you make wine for?

MARIMAR: Since you can’t please everybody, you’d better be true to yourself and make the wines thatYOU love. We work as a team – our Tech Director, our Cellar master and myself – in expressing our vineyards’ fruit in the wines. And we’ve worked together since 1994-1996, so our tastes always agree.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MARIMAR: Our Cristina Pinot Noir is named after my daughter and it is our most special wine. It is a small bottling of selected barrels, all of premium French oak. Each vintage we choose a unique blend of our Pinot Noir clones that we feel will age longest and represent best our estate’s terroir.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MARIMAR: Pinot Noir, when vinified the way we do here, is the most versatile companion to food and it goes with soooo many dishes! One of my favorites is duck, especially combined with dried fruits in a sweet/savory sauce – a very Catalan combination – like the recipe for Duck with Figs in my cookbook The Catalan Country Kitchen.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Green Valley so special?

MARIMAR: Our Green Valley AVA is the coolest and foggiest in the Russian River Valley – ideal for growing Pinot Noir. There are 4 factors, in my view, that influence the quality of a wine: Soil, Climate, Variety, and the person behind the wine.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MARIMAR: Harvest!! We’re in the midst of a very tough harvest, so I take care of that morning and afternoon and then, in the evening, I do my emails..

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

MARIMAR: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are, in my opinion, the most versatile and food-friendly varietals that exist – and ours are particularly so. Try them with most foods, without being afraid about the pairing being great in anybody’s eyes (and palates) but yours. Remember, the best wine is the one YOU like!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

MARIMAR: Come visit us at Marimar Estate Vineyards and Winery, an hour from the Golden Gate Bridge and 10 minutes from Sebastopol, for some unique Spanish Tapas paired with terroir-driven Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs!

RED: I love your winery, Marimar. Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Marimar Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Bradford Mountain Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: With answerable courage

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Bradford Mountain Winery, a winery known for crafting Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel of great distinction. Secure an ample allotment of their 2007 Zinfandel, a Ultra QPR wine that drinks better than some of its higher-priced rivals from the region.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: VML Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Bradford Mountain Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: Ginny Lambrix

Backgrounder: Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. Arguably, the region is best known for producing some of the finest Zinfandel in the country. For today’s wine Agent Red returned to Bradford Mountain Winery, a Wine Spies favorite. There, he sampled Bradford’s stunning 2007 Zinfandel. Excited by his discovery, Agent Red was able secure every last bottle of this wine for our Zin-loving Operatives.

Varietal Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, which are characterized by their balance and juiciness, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark magenta with a solid core of mulberry juice. Color is dark and deeply concentrated and, at the edge of the wine, a fine ring of dark fuscia encircles the wine. After swirling, thin, wine-stained tears start high up on the wall of the glass before moving slowly downward.

Smell – Jammy blackberry and raspberry mix with sweet brown spice, blueberry torte, black cherry and a hint of fine, sweet dried herbs. As the wine opens up, dark chocolate, black pepper and a hint of cigar box begin to emerge.

Feel – Medium-weight across the front palate, the wine expands and gains a little more weight at the mid-palate. After a moment, plush tannins give the wine a crushed velvet feel. Gradually, an easy, softly grippy dryness leads to a chewy feel that encourages you to take another long pull.

Taste – Blackberry and softly smoky blueberry present at the front, with black cherry, fine dried herbs, dusty bramble and mulberry close behind. Cigar box and a hint of flint make a subtle appearance at the end.

Finish – Very long and flavor-filled, with dark fruit flavors gently yielding to soft, sweet herbs, flint with hints of softest cedar and tobacco. Throughout, the wine progresses very gradually from soft and sweet, to softly dry.

Conclusion – Do yourself a great favor today, dear Operative, and grab (at least) a case of this fantastic wine while you can. This is a classic Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel that offers great value with with delicious fruit, great complexity, a perfect feel and sweet aromatics. The 2007 vintage was an great one for Northern California wines and this wine finds itself in fine company, easily living up to the hype of the vintage. If you are looking for a great daily drinker, or the perfect Zin to serve your guests during the coming Holidays, you’ve found it. Just be sure to stock up. This may be your last opportunity to get your hands on some. Cheers!

Wine Spies vineyard Check:

The location of the Bradford Mountain Winery vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 D-Cubed Cellars Napa Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Cube Roots

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Respond to Operative requests for a wine from D-Cubed Cellars, in Calistoga, at the northern end of the Napa Valley. Evaluate Duane’s Napa Valley Petite Sirah. If the quality meets or exceeds the expectations of our demanding Operatives, secure an ample allocation.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Epiphany Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Petite Sirah Napa Valley

Winemaker: Duane Dappen

Backgrounder: Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and slightly opaque, with purple and ruby hues. After swirling, tight clusters of branching legs start high up on the glass. They move very slowly downward, thinning as they go.

Smell – Bold and perfumed, with lush aromas of blackberry, fresh fig, bramble, black plum, dark chocolate and subtle bacon. As the wine breathes in the glass, dried meats, anise, black pepper and dark strawberry all emerge from the glass.

Feel – Soft and round, at first, the wine takes on weight at the mid and rear palate, where it becomes grippy and textured. Ripe tannins and a balanced acidity add complexity and character.

Taste – This wine leads with big blackberry and dark blueberry. These are followed by dark plum, cedar, subtle dried herbs and cocoa dust.

Finish – Ripe and chewy, with dark fruit that lingers for a long time, eventually yielding to earthy flavors that fade slowly, culminating in black pepper and chalky minerals.

Conclusion – The 2006 D-Cubed Cellars Napa Valley Petite Sirah is an excellent, balanced wine from a producer that we have been chasing for, literally years. Duane Dappen is best known for his Zinfandel but we were intrigued by the buzz that his Petite Sirah has been generating of late. Duane was finally able to cut a handful of cases away for our Operatives, for today’s sale. This Petite Sirah is well balanced, delivering great fruit, without overwhelming the palate, as some big Petites may tend to do. Decant for best results and pair this flexible wine as you would with a great Merlot, which is to say, with nearly anything.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Duane Dappen

WINE EDUCATION: Studied Enology and UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Worked in Napa Valley for 26 years. Started at Grgich Hills Cellar, was Cellarmaster at Storybook Mountain Vineyards, Assistant Winemaker at Rombauer and Frank Family Vineyards. Winemaker at Frank Family Vineyards. Currently Winemaker and President of D-cubed Cellars and Winemaker at Bravante Vineyards.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Keep it simple. Try to allow the fruit to be at its best with some elegance and balance.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Who wants the last rib?

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: (1994 Howell Mountain Zinfandel released February 1996.)

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Duane. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Napa Valley Petite Sirah today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DUANE DAPPEN: Thanks, Agent Red. Your perseverance has paid off.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DUANE: Growing up in the Foothills my parents would go wine tasting and then I started working with a friend’s father making home wine in his cave (the cave originally was a Gold Mine)

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DUANE: There was no particular wine or winemaker, but the combination or wines from Grgich Hills Cellars and Storybook Mountain have influenced me.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

DUANE: I make wine that I enjoy drinking and that I hope my friends and customers will like.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DUANE: The 2006 Napa Valley Petite Sirah is the second vintage of Petite that I have produced. The wine has the classic medium body but a nice tannin structure that is Petite Sirah. There are also some nice blueberry flavors that are framed by sage and tea leaves.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DUANE: I love this with some slow cooked pork, some nice Spareribs with just a nice rub, not a sweet saucy mess, or some slow cook pork shoulder.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valle such a special place for Petite Sirah?

DUANE: The Napa Valley has the consistently warm days and cool nights that get this variety ripe and still maintain some acid to balance the tannins that are inherent in Petite Sirah.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DUANE: I just finished bottling the 2009 reds at Bravante Vineyards and am now getting everything in order for crush which should start in a week or so.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

WINEMAKER: I like to think that people enjoy my wines with good food and company, whether it is their spouse or significant other having dinner at home together or a group of friends tailgating. Wine is best with good food and company.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

DUANE: I hope everyone enjoys this wine with great food and friends.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Mission Codename: Future Past

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Oregon’s lush Willamette Valley, where unique Pinot Noirs are born. Re-infiltrate our the regional winery that holds the record for Most Popular Oregon Winery, among our Pinot Noir-loving Operatives, Brooks Wine. Secure the latest vintage of their exemplary Janus Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Brooks Wine

Wine Subject: 2009 Janus Pinot Noir – Willamette Valley

Winemaker: Chris Williams

Backgrounder: Oregon’s Willamette Valley, just south of Portland and along the Willamette River is well known for Pinot Noir and other Burgundian varietals. Its deep and fertile volcanic soil, cooler climate most directly effect viticulture. Most of the vineyards in this area are planted in the valley’s and hillsides along the river. Today’s wine comes from a unique winery – with a unique heritage. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes, along with his interview with Brooks’ winemaker, Chris Williams, below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful ruby hues, evenly colored, from core to edge. When swirled, chubby tears take a long time to form, before falling slowly, thinning out as they move.

Smell – Black cherry candy, raspberry and wild strawberry jump from the glass. These mingle with bramble, blueberry preserve, black tea leaf, and soft brown spice. As the wine opens up, it reveals subtle dried orange peel, forest floor and soft cedar.

Feel – Smooth, cool and light on entry, this wine settles onto the mid-palate, where it reveals fine tannins and a soft acidity. After the wine leaves the palate, a soft, flinty dryness gradually appears.

Taste – Very balanced, with bright fruit and a softly earthen character showing in even proportion. Cherry candy and young strawberry take a bright, sweet lead. As the wine opens up, these are joined by blackberry, bramble, strawberry, blueberry, cedar, soft spice and a hint of plum preserve.

Finish – Long, sweet and flavorful, with red fruit leading to darker fruit, spice, cedar and bramble. These slowly give way to flint, black tea leaf and a hint of black pepper.

Conclusion – This is a delightful and delicious wine that is bursting with fruit. We are used to Oregon Pinot Noir that drinks slightly ‘dirty’, with more of an earthy, mulch character that fans of California wines have a difficult time understanding. This wine certainly shows of its terroir, but I must say that the fruit-forward nature of the wine is what really won our tasting panel over. With sweet red fruit of cherry and strawberry taking charge on the nose and on the palate, this bright wine is very food friendly. The secondary earthen characteristics add dimension, complexity and theWilliamette-ness of the wine. Despite the relative youth of the wine, it is really drinking beautifully. This elegant, fruit-forward, flexible and food-friendly wine would be fantastic with a spiced lamb dish or a savory grilled chicken.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Chris Williams

WINE EDUCATION: Hands-on

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF:none

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY:I think it’s very important to always show the vintage as part of Terrior.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Eat, Drink, and be merry!

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Brooks is 1998 Willamette Valley Riesling, Chris Williams’ 2004 Ara Riesling

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Chris. We are thrilled to be showing your wine today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

CHRIS: And thank you, it’s always a pleasure to find a new audience to show my wine to.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

CHRIS: It was really more about a friendship I formed with Jimi Brooks that lead me into the business. From there my appreciation for wine grew quickly.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CHRIS: That would have to be Jimi. I learned everything from him including to always encourage yourself to try new things.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

CHRIS: Myself, but always with a consumer in mind!

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Willamette Valley so special?

CHRIS: For me it’s really about the people, the sense of community really shows through!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CHRIS: H-A-R-V-E-S-T!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

CHRIS: A lot like life, you have to always be open to new things to really find your true pleasures.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

CHRIS: Just……….ENJOY!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Mission Codename: All that glitters is Silverwood

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friend Miro Tcholakov (aka AgentKGB) and retrieve his 2009 Silverwood Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a delicious, rich and ready to drink gem of a wine.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Miro Cellars

Wine Subject: 2009 Silverwood Vineyard Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Today’s wine was grown at the Silverwood Vineyard, a 2200ft mountain top climat on Pine Mountain, high above the Russian River and Alexander Valleys.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy hues, with glints of shimmering crimson at the edge of the wine. After swirling, the wine leaves behind tall columns of slow-moving, skinny, wine-stained tears.

Smell – A bold rush of dark mixed berries greets the nose. Ripe blackberry, blueberry and black cherry take the lead. Behind these, additional aromas of plum preserve, clove, cedar and subtle oak follow. After a while in the glass, dark chocolate, subtle herbs and and a hint of espresso join in.

Feel – Cool and light-weight, on the entry. Then, the wine quickly settles in as it introduces chewy tannins. After a few moments, a subtly mineral-laden dryness spreads to the corners of the palate.

Taste – Dark and fruit-forward, with a hint of smoky character. Blackberry, black cherry, black plum and darkly roasted espresso take the lead, here. The wine settles onto the palate, and reveals soft oak, subtle dried herbs, dried violet petals and hints of clove and black pepper.

Finish – Dark fruit lingers for a long time as chewy tannins and a spreading dryness cause the mouth to water. After the fruit dwindles, dried violets and slate remain for a while.

Conclusion – We always love Miro’s wines. Still, given the youth of today’s wine, we were taken by surprise. This delicious 2009 Silverado Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from high atop the Alexander Valley, is drinking beautifully. We are certain that it will continue to progress, so please be certain to cellar a few bottles. Hopefully you saved a couple of the 2008s that we featured, last year, and can do a vertical tasting in a couple of years. Pair this big, flavorful wine with a beef stew or a nice herb-roasted chicken.

Mission Report:

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: February 4, 1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: So far I made my mark with Petite sirah for the Miro brand, with my other jobs I have done very well with other varieties and blends. In general I’m very fond of perhaps the only two varieties that California has claim to fame as truly “heritage” –Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. But, I am so pleased with my inaugural Pinot Noir! It turned out beautifully.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country…
There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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AGENT RED: Greetings, Miro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIRO TCHOLAKOV: A pleasure!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIRO: I don’t think that there was any specific event-wine has always been part of our life back in Bulgaria. We made every year about 1000 liters and manage to drink most of it before the next harvest. Wine has always been part of the life circle, just like making cheese or jam or tomato sauces. We also made grappa every year. My grandfather Mariano was the initial inspiration and the first hand source of winemaking knowledge.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIRO: The real winemaking I learned during my first years at Dry Creek. I’m not done with the learning by any means yet. Back in Bulgaria we made the wine in the most pure way possible. We rarely used even sulfur! No additives and none of the modern gadgets-just grapes and barrels.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MIRO: Don’t play with the wine just because you know how. Only intervene when you absolutely have to and you are sure of the outcome. Always pay attention to the details all the time. Everything you do to the wine-matters!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIRO: Well I don’t think there is just one person-it is more of a collective of people and styles. I do not believe that I have a particular style per say-I just try to get out of the grapes the most from every vintage-and that would be different every year.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

MIRO: Legally? Commercially –this harvest was my number 20!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIRO: I guess I can say that first I want to be satisfied with the wines I make and of course it will be great if a lot of people including media like them as well. Otherwise I’ll have a lot of wine to drink by myself…

RED: Tell me, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

MIRO: The temperature inversions during the growing season and the relatively poor soils consisting of mostly decomposed rocks and abundant sunshine make some very special and distinctive wines

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MIRO: You have to love the job. If you are in it just 8 to 5 don’t even think about it. If the love and passion are not there you will be just a booze maker. Also you have to be willing to sacrifice a lot of time and long days and hours away from the family.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: The 2011 harvest is about to begin finally! We just got in the first load of Zinfandel today.

RED: Wow! Congratulations! Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MIRO: The 2009 Miro Cabernet is from Silverwood Vineyard located nearly at the top of Pine Mountain-soon to be the newest sub appellation in Sonoma County. The vineyard is planted at 2400 feet elevation well above the fog of the Alexander Valley and the Russian River below. The long sunny days and relatively warmer nights produce age worthy wines with distinctive exotic wild berry aromas and massive but soft tannins.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: I love this wine with skirt steak and wild mushroom and brown rice risotto.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

MIRO: I wanted to be a MD back in Bulgaria but my girlfriend talked me out of it.

RED: Thank goodness for us fans of your wines! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIRO: Rhone wines for sure. I even make one for a winemaker called Cuvee Sasha a GSM-simply delicious without all the pretense.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MIRO: Think of them as $100 bottle of wines and you will not be disappointed. I hate the cliché but they are “affordable luxury”.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MIRO: I would like to try again the 1927 Château D’yquem.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MIRO: Have I been connected to KGB? The answer is –perhaps!

RED: Our intel reports were correct, then! Thank you so much for your time, Miro. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MIRO: Thank you! Wine Spies days are always very exciting around here. Your customers are well-informed – and they know good wine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Miro Cellars can be seen in thissatellite photo.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate location of Miro Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2002 Oriel Wines Alma de Llicorella Priorat D.O.Q.

Mission Codename: The Soul of the Priorat

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit the Priorat region in Spain’s Catalonia and secure an exclusive allocation of a delicious red blend from esteemed local winemaker Sara Pérez.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Oriel Wines

Wine Subject: 2002 Alma de Llicorella Priorat D.O.Q.

Winemaker: Sara Pérez

Backgrounder: The Priorat D.O.Q. (or Priorata DOCa) in Spain’s Catalonia (Bajo Penedes) is a region that is known for making rich and bold red blends of Cabernet, Garnacha (Grenache), Carinena (Carignan), Merlot and other local varietals. And while neighboring regions are well known for the region’s sparkling classic Cava, this regions dry and warm climate and extremely poor solid results in grape vines that struggle leading to intense and flavorful fruit of great character.

Today’s delicious and exclusive selection, made by esteemed local winemaker Sara Pérez is a classic blend of 60% Carinena and 40% Garnacha and is representative of the new breed of elegant wines being produced from the region.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby red with a clear core that turns just slightly murky at its heart. Brighter ruby red along the edges and when swirled pencil thin legs of varying speeds are randomly space around the glass.

Smell – Warm, tangy and bold on the nose with great aromas of ripe red fruit including cherry and plum. Slightly hot spice, cedar cigar box and tobacco, a touch of earthiness and oaky notes adds complexity and invites a sip.

Feel – Velvet smooth on entry with well rounded tannins, this full-bodied and dry wine has tangy vibrant acidity and a touch if crisp textured minerality that hits at mid palate and holds the fruit tight into the finish.

Taste – Much more restrained on the palate than the aromatic nose would indicate, this complex wine brings a perfect old-world palate to its rich and tangy fruit. Red and black cherry, dark plum, warm spice and cedar box mingle with earthy, oaky and mineral notes.

Finish – Extremely long with the ripe fruit and earthy notes fading just before the warm spice, tangy acidity and textured minerality lasts and lasts.

Conclusion – The 2002 Oriel Wines Alma de Llicorella Priorat D.O.Q. is a truly delicious wine that brings a fresh and aromatic ‘new world’ nose and perfectly combines it with ‘old world’ texture and palate. Great complexity from start to finish, well structured and long lasting. A wine to pair with spicy tapas or even richer preparations of seafood, and of course chorizo or roasted meats. Enjoy tonight as this wine is in its peak!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Priorat region in Catalonia can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Deerfield Ranch Winery Trio Napa Valley Meritage

Mission Codename: Ménage à Trio

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Wine Spies’ Operative favorite, Deerfield Ranch Winery, and procure their finest red, for our special Elite Operative Saturday.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Deerfield Ranch Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Red Rex

Winemaker: Robert Rex

Backgrounder: Located in Kenwood, California, Deerfield Ranch Winery is a Wine Spies Operative favorite. The winery has proved elusive in recent times, but Agent Red was able to secure a limited allotment of today’s 2003 Trio, a deep and delicious Napa Valley Meritage, for our demanding Operatives.

Varietal Backgrounder: Meritage (pronounce like ‘heritage’, with no French-style accent) wine, blends made in the tradition of the great wines of Bordeaux can only carry the name if the winery is a member ofThe Meritage Association based in Sonoma County. Most wines made in the US are varietal wines, comprised of over 75% of a single varietal. Unfortunately, this labeling requirement is believed to impair many winemakers from making exceptional blends, since they are often labeled as simply Red Table Wine with the noble grapes of Bordeaux. Thus in 1988 Meritage was born as a way to highlight the winemaker’s art of careful blending and crafting of wines in the tradition of some of Europe’s finest wines.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and inky garnet hues. The edges of the wine show a iridescent brickish color. After swirling, thick, wine-stained tears glide slowly down the inside of the glass.

Smell – Dark and aromatic, with dusky plum, blackberry compote and darkest cherry in the lead. Beneath these lies spice, dark bakers chocolate, sweet dried herbs and toasty oak.

 

Feel – Cool and light on entry, the wine slowly takes on weight. The wine transforms from what seems to be a simple wine, to one with more complexity and character.

Taste – Dark and ripe with smoky black cherry juice, overripe blackberry, dusty bramble and coffee grounds. These are followed by stewed plum, black fig, dark spice, toasted anise seed, red plum and black pepper.

Finish – Long, dark and complex, with bold blackfruit and a dusky earthen character that continues on for a long after the wine leaves your mouth. At the very end, a chewy, textured feel lingers.

Conclusion – This is a delicious, dark, flavorful wine that gets better, the longer it breaths. Decant or swirl, heartily, and be rewarded with lusher fruit and a softer feel. The wine is big and ripe, at it leaves a lingering, chewy feel behind, but the wine has a soft side, too. And, a good acidity, making it a great wine to pair with a lovely steak. If you love big, dark wines with a personality, this wine is guaranteed to please.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Robert Rex

WINE EDUCATION: 38 years of wine making experience

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Robert Rex is a “renaissance man” possessing a great palate and an exceptional talent for winemaking. He is a chemist, graphic designer and accomplished gourmet cook. He has the ability to fix almost anything. The harvest of 2010 will be Robert’s 38th consecutive year of winemaking. Robert and PJ, his wife and business partner, have lived in Kenwood, Sonoma Valley, for 28 years at their beautiful hilltop retreat, Deerfield Ranch, where the Deerfield Ranch Winery was founded. The view out their back door of Sonoma Mountain is the inspiration for the winery logo.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Making wine is like gourmet cooking. We start with the finest ingredients, grapes farmed by growers who put as much attention into the vines as we do into the wines. Great wine begins in the vineyard. We have worked with the same growers year after year to perfect a partnership to produce the best wine. By drawing from many vineyards, we get grapes from appellations where varietals grow the best. We allow the grapes to fully vine ripen, hand pick and sort the grapes, and use the most gentle production techniques. We produce wines using organic methods and are one of only three certified organic producing wineries in Sonoma.

We make wine by hand in small lots and taste them constantly to manage their constant change. We experiment with the latest techniques while operating from a foundation of tradition. We mold and nudge the wines in one direction or another to make them lovely, fruity and delicious to drink. Our reds receive extended barrel aging, which makes them mellow. Attention to cleanliness and balance makes them age worthy.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Taste the passion

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1982

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Robert. We are thrilled to be showing your 2003 Trio Vineyard Meritage, Napa Valley today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ROBERT: Thank you for having me. It’s always a pleasure to share my passion with your Operatives.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ROBERT: When I was 9, I had piece of angel food cake and begged my mother to teach me how to make it. I’ve been in love with cooking ever since and winemaking, especially blending, draws from the same fundamentals. I often say I am a product of my environment in that way, if I had grown up in New York I’d have a restaurant, I grew up in California so I have a winery.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ROBERT: My early mentor was Andre Tchelistcheff who taught me about blending and of course my wife PJ for sure. PJ is very sensitive to histamines and sulfites in wine so all our wines are clean, meaning we triple hand sort the grapes removing anything you wouldn’t feed your baby. As a result our wines have extremely low levels of histamines and sulfites, so anybody can drink them without experiencing headaches or allergic reactions.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ROBERT: For everyone who enjoys wine. I appreciate the reviewers and bloggers who spend time creating tasting notes and reviews but the best compliment I can get about one of my wines is delicious!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

ROBERT: We’re featuring the 2003 Meritage from Will Nord’s Trio Vineyard in the Yountville AVA. I’m a Sonoma winemaker, all my friends know that. There’s a healthy rivalry between Napa and Sonoma, Sonoma wines are better known for depth and a smooth feel and Napa wines for their big mouth feel. So when I work with grapes from Napa, I incorporate my Sonoma style to make wines that have the large mouth-feel we love from Napa with the smooth, velvety characteristic that we love from Sonoma. That’s really the perfect word here, velvet. This wine features a broad palate, boasting rich berries over oak, earth, leather and a light tobacco flavor. I love this wine because it demands my attention. Sometimes I taste a wine and it’s good, but it’s simple. The 2003 Trio Meritage, to me, is more like having a conversation with the wine, you have to get to know it and it will take a little while to understand it’s personality.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ROBERT: Traditionally I’ve paired this with pork tenderloin, prepared with my wine red reduction sauce (which takes 12 bottles of wine and 24 hours, you can check it out at our website. Charlie Trotter paired Deerfield’s Meritage with a winter vegetable ratatouille, it was quite a delicious pairing. I think the full bodied elegance of this wine will allow it to go well with a variety of dishes. Of course if you come to my house, expect pork tenderloin or rack of lamb in my red wine reduction sauce!

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Trio Vineyard in Yountville so special?

ROBERT: I love all of the North Coast, Sonoma most, but Napa, Lake and Mendocino counties all have great terroir. The land here has spent the last million years shaping this area for wine. Volcanoes have strewn rich ash over the hillsides, oceans and rivers have left deposits over valley floors, all sitting on top of diverse layers of soils, loams and minerals. Yountville is fortunate to be touched by all those influences. It also traps the cool air moving up from the San Pablo bay, cooling the grapes in the evening and allowing the sun to warm them during the day. It’s stunning how all the elements come together to impact the grape. What makes the Trio Vineyard unique, is that Nord grows all five Bourdeaux varietals there. I don’t see that too often so, as a winemaker, I love being able to do a full Meritage blend AND highlight the unique terroir of the Trio vineyard.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ROBERT: HARVEST 2011! We brought in Pinot Gris last Tuesday from Saralee’s Vineyard in the Russian River, which is an extremely renowned vineyard in these parts, owned by Saralee and Richard Kunde. Saralee is the vineyard manager and I’ve never seen anyone better. The bunches are very small, look almost like those little Champagne grapes you see in the super markets in the fall. They are very tasty with Brix about 24. All the grapes I’ve tasted so far have very high acid, which speaks to a super vintage. Once they come in we sort through everything by hand, the attention to detail is not only what makes the wine delicious but it prevents the yeast from producing histamines, which give you red wine headaches. If you visit the winery you can see our hand sorting line at work, or just check out www.cleanwine.info. My wife PJ says winemakers must have very short term memories, because if we remembered how hard we worked during harvest the previous year, we wouldn’t be so excited for harvest this year! It is hard work, long hours and lasts a couple months but the joy of crafting wine will always win out for me. It’s the artisan spirit, to create beauty and share it with the world.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

ROBERT: Passionately. Winemaking is more than a profession, it’s my passion. The long hours and hard work wouldn’t be worth it if I didn’t absolutely love it, and that’s what I want everyone to taste – the passion. Wine is such a delicate art and one that is meant to be enjoyed.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

ROBERT: If you make it to Kenwood please stop by the winery and taste wines in the Grand Room of our wine cave. We always love to take the time to share Deerfield wines with guests. Sante!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are b

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Deerfield Ranch Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Optima Wine Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Nothing Petite about it…

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Optima Winery, a winery that we first placed under surveillance in 2009. Today, we are pleased to feature our first Optima Petite Sirah, a wine that hails from the stellar 2007 vintage! Sample the wine and, if it lives up to our exacting standards, procure an ample allocation for our Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Optima Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Mike Duffy

Backgrounder:

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark, with inky Burgundy hues. The finest ring of glinting ruby circles the glass. When swirled, the wine leaves behind chubby, wine-stained tears.

Smell – Fragrant and lush, with massive blackberry and blueberry leaping from the glass. These are soon joined by black plum, Black cherry, blueberry preserve and soft brown spice. At the tail end, intriguing aromas of pine, crush violets, toasty caramel and cedar round out the nose.

Feel – Soft, cool and wet on initial entry. Then, plush tannins introduce a soft dryness that gradually spreads to the corners of the palate as the drying effect increases.

Taste – Beautifully balanced, the wine leads with blackberry, blueberry, black cherry and black plum. These are balanced against sweet red cherry, soft cigar box, and crushed black flower petals. At the very end, a hint of sweet brown spice, black licorice and black pepper appear – and then fade slowly.

Finish – Very long and very flavorful, with fruit flavors that sustain for a long time. As the plush dryness increases, some earthen flavors seem to increase, before slowly tailing off.

Conclusion – 2007 was a great year for California Red wines, and today’s special Petite Sirah reinforces our love for the vintage. Also reinforced is our love for Optima – and for great Petite Sirah! Optima Winery is one of our most beloved Dry Creek Valley producers, and every wine that we sample from them pleases us with its balance and authentic fruit. In this wine, flavors and aromatics are through the roof, but the wine holds it all in check. It never overpowers, as some Petite Sirah may tend to do. Instead, this big and boldly flavorful wine shows an elegant side. And, for a wine with such big character, it makes a surprisingly good companion for complex food pairings. We enjoyed ours with a spicy brick oven pizza with pepperoni and jalapeno peppers. Drinking beautifully, now, this wine will likely continue to improve for up to a decade. Enjoy!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mike Duffy

DATE OF BIRTH: May 1959

PLACE OF BIRTH: Oregon

WINE EDUCATION: Graduate of UC Davis in Enology

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: When I finished my Enology degree from UCD in 1981, I was already employed as the Assistant Winemaker at Trefethen Vineyards in Napa Valley. “I was very motivated to earn my degree and start working after being a broke college student for so long. I moved to Field Stone as winemaker in 1988, studying under the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff. For nine years, I worked full-time at Field Stone, saving weekends to tend to my own fledgling winery, Optima.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

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Below is Agent Red’s recent interview with winemaker Mike Duffy.

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. I know how busy you are with harvest right now, so I really appreciate the opportunity to talk with you – if even for a few scant minutes, today.

MIKE: Yeah, we have been plenty busy. We crushed thirty tons of grapes today!

RED: Wow. Again, thanks. Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIKE: Yes, I was raised around wine. My first job in High School was helping my parents, Bill and Della, at their wine shop, that is what sparked my interest. Later I played with making wine out of anything I could get out of my parents garden. I would take flats of strawberries, peaches and blackberries and craft them into wine. One time I even raided the rose bushes in the neighborhood so I could make a rose petal champagne

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIKE: UC Davis gave me an excellent technical background. It was the basis for my ability to solve problems when they arise. The experience of making wine came from getting in and getting dirty at my internship at Trefethen in 1980. That’s where it all came together for me. I have a unique work ethic and a strong mechanical background, both of which I have my father to thank for. Both those qualities served me well when I left the academic world and helped distinguish me from other classmates and co-workers.

RED: Great places to get your footing! What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIKE: Andre Tchelistcheff was the biggest influence on how I make Cabernet, and the greatest source of perspective, history and wine knowledge that I have been fortunate enough to have enjoyed. He approached the entire winemaking endeavor, from the vineyard in the spring, to harvest, and through barrel aging, as one integrated whole. I learned to take Alexander Valley Cabernet and to use its brilliant fruit as the basis for my wines. “Don’t bother making one of those huge Cabernets like many do in Napa, Mike. Anyone can make wines like those.” Andre would say. He inspired me to make a Cabernet that spoke to the virtues of Alexander Valley. A wine with an intense core of fruit and coco, balanced with vanilla and oak. Complex and powerful, yet subtle and soft. He also impressed on me the critical concept of not manipulating the wine, rather helping it become its best.

RED: You don’t know how many winemakers mention Andre as an influence! How long have you been making wine?

MIKE: Well one could say since I was a child, but 2009 was my 30th harvest in Napa and Sonoma. I still enjoy the “seasonality” of winemaking.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIKE: I began making wine for my own creative satisfaction. I worked for several top wineries that produced Cabernet, and there was always some step in the process when I said to myself, “If this were my wine I would do this differently”. That need to satisfy my own creativity from beginning to end is why I started my own winery when I was 25. My approach to winemaking combines art and practicality. “I always liked the honesty and hard work of agriculture and to me, winemaking is the ultimate fusion of agriculture and art.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIKE: Bottling and more bottling!

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIKE: I enjoy cooking; to me this is another form of taking an ingredient and using your creativity to make something incredible. My wife thinks I cook so well that she refuses to cook anymore. I love watching all of the cooking shows on TV, especially Iron Chef. I just can’t get enough, they are very inspiring.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIKE: I enjoy drinking a dry Gewurztraminer from Sonoma County, Anderson Valley, or from the Alsace region of France. It’s a wonderful wine that you can drink alone or with Thai, Asian or Mexican food all of which I enjoy cooking and eating. The best examples have a depth and a perfume that is unbelievable.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans. Your Alexander Valley Cab is stupendous!

MIKE: Thanks, very much, Red. Now, back to the grapes!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Optima Winery in Healdsburg can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The hits keep on coming

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Wine Spies favorite, Grgich Hills Estate, for special access to their newest Zinfandel. Secure a sizable allocation for our waiting Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grgich Hills Estate

Wine Subject: 2008 Napa Valley Estate Grown Zinfandel

Winemaker: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

Backgrounder: In 1976, Mike Grgich rocked the wine world by creating a California that beat out French Chardonnays in the now famous Judgment of Paris. The French were outraged, and Mike Grgich earned the respect of wine drinkers and critics, worldwide. Today, Mike continues to oversee production of what have been heralded as “the finest wines in the world”. We are very proud to be able to bring you today’s fantastic Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Ruby red hues, with perfectly even color, from core to edge. Perfect clarity, right through the slightly darker core of the wine. After swirling, branching legs from high up on the glass wall – and then rocket downward.

Smell – Black cherry candy and blackberry mingle with sweet tobacco, earthy spice, cigar box and dark chocolate. As the wine stretches out a little, additional aromas of sweet cedar shavings, black pepper and softly toasted oak emerge.

Feel – Soft, smooth and slightly round, at first. Then, the wine becomes more weighty, revealing additional texture and complexity as a soft dryness spreads from the edges of the palate, inward. Fine tannins and an easy acidity contribute balance and elegance.

Taste – Dark red and concentrated, with black cherry and tart blackberry & plum preserves. Under these, dark notes of black tea leaf, cocoa powder, dark sweetwoods, tomato vine and toasted oak add a layer of complexity.

Finish – Long and very flavorful, with big cherry and cocoa gradually yielding to earthen tea, spice, soft pepper and a hint of oak.

Conclusion – Grgich has given us special access, once again, to one of their wines! Today’s 2008 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel is a fantastic offering from this, one of our most popular wineries. With delicious, dark cherry flavors that are balanced against cocoa and soft spice, our tasting panel found itself taking a long time with this wine, savoring every inhalation and sip as we reviewed. Rich, lush, flavor-filled and delicious, we give this wine very high marks. Enjoy this food-friendly wine now, and for the next 7 years or more.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Grgich Hills Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.a

Mission Codename: The Ascent of Mount James

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, James Family Cellars, secure their latest Mounts Vineyard Syrah, a wine that we have featured in past vintages. Secure an ample allotment of this wine for our Syrah-loving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: James Family Cellars

Wine Subject: 2009 Syrah – Mounts Vineyard – Dry Creek Valley

Winemaker: Mat Gustafson

Backgrounder:

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a bold delight with original flavors, deep aromatics and a ultra-fine mouth feel.

Today’s Syrah hails from the Mounts Vineyard is Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley. The Dry Creek Valley across the Russian River from Alexander Valley has a generally cooler and wetter climate which makes the growing season longer and more flexible than neighboring appellations.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Iridescent dark plum, with perfect clarity through its dark purple core. At the edge, a skinny ring of dark pink encircles the wine. After swirling, tall, skinny, wine -stained tears start high up on the glass, and then run quickly downward.

Smell – Sweet, jammy blackberry and blueberry launch from the glass and into your soul! These sweet aromas are joined by dark strawberry preserves, subtle dried meat, sweet spice, fresh fennel and milk chocolate.

Feel – Soft and round on the attack. Then, quickly, the wine becomes weighty and sturdy, revealing a complex texture that is supported by plush tannins and a sweet, bright acidity.

Taste – Sweet dark mixed berries, black cherry and wild plums are perfectly integrated with earthen dried leaves, dried black tea leaf, kola nut and sweet dark spice.

Finish – Ultra-long and flavor-filled, with jammy fruit, earthy minerals, sweet spice and soft dried fall leaves with a hint of black pepper at the end.

Conclusion – This wine represents the potent pairing of James Family Cellars with Mounts Family Vineyards fruit. We’ve been featuring wines from both, for nearly the last five years, and we love them both – very much. Today’s wine is deep and delicious, with dark fruit that sings its aromatic magic and dances on the palate. Loaded with plenty of dark character, this complex and delicious wine is beautifully balanced, with a sweet acidity that lends it to fine pairing. Delicious with food or without, we enjoyed our review bottles with a perfectly rare, garlic-rubbed, grilled Filet Mignon. This 2009 James Family Syrah gets our big Wine Spies recommendation!

Mission Report:

GRAPE GROWER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jeff James

FARMING EDUCATION: U.C. Davis – Agricultural Science & Management degree

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF:

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Start with good grapes, then don’t mess them up.

GRAPE GROWER QUOTE: “You want to know how to make a small fortune in farming?… you start with a large fortune.”

FIRST HARVEST AT STONY POINT VINEYARD:September, 2000

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WINERY OWNER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jeff. It’s great to be showcasing your wine again. We are thrilled to be showing your latest Syrah today. Our Operatives really loved your 2008, and I am certain that they’ll fall in love with your 2009! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JEFF JAMES: Thank you so much. We’re happy to have the fruits of our labors on display.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JEFF: My friends at U.C. Davis would occasionally bring the wines that they were making from their vineyards at home. Some were really good… some were not.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JEFF: Our ’09 Mounts Vineyard Syrah is a definitive, and delicious, representation of the fruit that our long-time friends, the Mounts family, grow in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley. As with all of our James Family Cellars wines, the winemaking was designed to support, not overshadow, the great grapes that we started with. I believe we found that balance with this wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JEFF: We are discovering new pairings, all the time, but this wine pairs particularly well with lasagna, grilled lamb with a blueberry/syrah reduction sauce, and essentially every cut of barbequed beef and pork that we tried it with when we were pouring our wine at a sanctioned barbeque competition last weekend.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

JEFF: The Dry Creek Valley has a wonderful combination of climate and soil that is ideal for ripening Syrah (and, of course, Zinfandel) which allows us to craft these deep, luscious wines.

RED: What is occupying your time in the vineyard these days?

JEFF: We have just been getting things organized and ready for this year’s delayed crush. The very mild weather we’ve had in Sonoma County this summer has delayed the harvest, but looks like it will be producing uncommonly flavorful grapes. I think we’re going to have fairly small quantities of very, very good wine this year.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JEFF: The next time you enjoy a glass of wine or a bite of food, try to remember to honor the farmer that produced it for you. Cheers!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the James Family Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

The location of the Mounts Family Vineyard, where today’s wine was born, can be seen in this satellite photo.