2007 Peterson Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The Essence of Zinfandel

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Peterson Winery, a perennial Wine Spies Operative favorite. Secure an ample allocation of their newest Zinfandel, a true stunner from the Dry Creek Valley.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemakers: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder: Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. Arguably, the region is best known for producing some of the finest Zinfandel in the country. For today’s wine Agent Red returned to Peterson Winery, a Wine Spies favorite, and visited with Jamie Peterson, second generation winemaker and son of Fred Peterson, the founder and winegrower for the winery. Read about Agent Reds visit with Jamie, following his tasting notes and mission report below.

Varietal Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, which are characterized by their balance and juiciness, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep, dark purple, with darker and slightly opaque core. After swirling, skinny, wine-stained legs start high up on the wall of the glass before crawling slowly downward.

Smell – Aromas leap from the glass, exuding fruit and spice from two feet away. Bold spiced blueberry and blackberry jam are joined by black cherry, darkest chocolate, brown spice and a hint of white pepper.

Feel – Slightly dry on entry, this wine really digs in at the mid-palate, where it takes on a full-bodied feel. A mineral-driven dryness spreads the the corners of the mouth, causing a puckering effect. Big tannins and a balanced acidity contribute to the plush feel – while driving flavors long into the finish.

Taste – Dark cherry, under-ripe blackberry and tart cherry lead the way. Close behind are darkest-roast espresso bean, oak, flint and darkly toasted oak.

Finish – Long and dry, with flavors the are sustained even after a flinty dryness makes you pucker. As flavors tail off, flint and pepper remain.

Conclusion – Chalk up another victory for Jamie and Fred Peterson! They’ve managed to craft another exceptional Zinfandel that is long on flavor, aromatics and value. Don’t tell them that we said so, but we think that today’s wine is under priced. Use this to your advantage, dear Operative, and stock up on this High QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) wine. Aromatics are huge. After pouring a glass, aromas of fruit and spice were obvious from a few feet away. On lifting the glass to nose, these aromas became more intense, with aromas of authentic, fresh fruit. Be sure to decant for optimal results, as there is a kick to the oak – at first. As the wine breathes, the oak becomes beautifully integrated with the rich fruit flavors. With an ultra long finish, this is a wine to really take your time with. With a balanced acidity, this is also a wine to dine with. Pair with tangy BBQ or a grilled steak. Perfection!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jamie Peterson

DATE OF BIRTH: March 20, 1981

PLACE OF BIRTH: Saratoga, CA (Mt. Eden Vineyards)

WINE EDUCATION: Ongoing, on-the-job. UC Davis Extension chemistry/lab analysis/viticulture classes.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Grew up in Peterson Winery, helping with odd jobs in the winery and vineyard as a teenager. Worked first harvest at 19, and then traveled to Australia and New Zealand to work harvest in 2001. took over as Assistant Winemaker at Peterson Winery in 2002. Given full Winemaker responsibility in 2006. 13 harvests under the belt at age 29.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Zero Manipulation”/Minimal intervention, letting the vineyard and vintage show through in each bottling. No fining, no filtration. Minimal new oak usage, minimal additions and SO2 use.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (but his Syrah is amazing)

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”If it ain’t got the root, it ain’t got the fruit.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: For Peterson Winery- 1991. For Jamie- 2002 Vintage, released in 2004

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jamie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Syrah, today. We love the wine!! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. And, thanks for making such amazing wines!

JAMIE: As always, it’s great to be back with The Wine Spies.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JAMIE: It’d be hard to pick one. Growing up with the sights, sounds, and smells of the winery and vineyards, there were many inspirational moments. But I didn’t think I’d be getting into the life of wine as deeply as I have until I worked harvests in 2001 in Australia and New Zealand. Working closely with other winemakers and seeing the international wine community and how it ties people together made me decide to come back to the family winery and join full time in 2002.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JAMIE: From my father, growing up in the winery, and learning on the job.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JAMIE: I believe that vineyard and vintage driven wines are the only reason for small wineries to exist. I prefer wines from different vintages to reflect the growing season (otherwise why put the vintage on the bottle?) rather than use additives (acid, tannins, enzymes, gum arabic, overblown new oak, etc) or technological processes (filtration, alcohol removal, micro-oxygenation) to create wines that taste the same each year. I don’t filter or fine our wines, and I predominantly use native yeast fermentations and malo-lactics, so we have to keep things clean and monitor closely, as we don’t choose to use the tools for fixing mistakes that some wineries do. We source from the same vineyards each year, so there is a thread of continuity running through vintages. Our vineyards are sustainably farmed, with a few certified organic, and a number of others dry-farmed.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JAMIE: I’m inspired by European vintners who have made wines from the same places for generations, and haven’t succumbed to commercialism.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JAMIE: 2002 was my first full year of working with wines from grape to bottle. 2000 was the first full harvest I worked with my father. At 29, I have 13 harvests under my belt (including working in both Australia and New Zealand in 2001).

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JAMIE: I make wines for my own tastes, and then we find enough people that share our ideas and style to buy it. We don’t normally submit our wines for scoring or competitions, and instead rely on word of mouth and community to find enough supporters.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Vallley so special?

JAMIE: The Dry Creek Valley features and amazing array of soil types and exposures for such a geographically small area, leading to a diverse range of flavors and subtleties in wines, for many different varietals, or even of the same varietal. We are able to create 5 Zinfandels from vineyards within a few miles of each other that are extremely unique. Also our weather pattern (most years) lends itself to perfectly ripening the many varieties we produce. Warm sunny days followed by cool nights allow grapes to ripen while retaining natural acidity and freshness.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JAMIE: Realize that winemaking is both simple and complicated. It’s all just fermented grape juice, but it’s all about the details; every minute little thing you do or don’t do to the grapes or wine will affect how it turns out. Taste as much as you can and think about who you will be making wine for.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JAMIE: We are getting ready for harvest, sampling vineyards and getting our various pieces of equipment all cleaned up and checked out. We’re a few weeks behind normal ripening time, and look to be fully into harvest by the end of September.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JAMIE: We see 4 or 5 different Zinfandel bottlings each year, all from the Dry Creek Valley. The wine featured today is our blend of a few different vineyards from within the region that we hope reflects the overall terroir or character of the Dry Creek Valley. With 10% Petite Sirah and 6% Carignane, this wine has a little more depth, backbone, and complexity than many Zins today, even those from the usually more balanced Dry Creek Valley.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JAMIE: I love to pair this wine with a second glass of it… It’s delicious on it’s own, but with the blending grapes in there, it really shines with layered foods. Braised dishes, ratatouille, or lasagna.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JAMIE: I like to go mushroom hunting (for chanterelles and porcini), even though as a teenager I accidentally picked and ate Death Cap mushrooms.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JAMIE: Zinfandel is the wine I seem to open the most often of our own, but I also drink a lot of Rhone wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JAMIE: So many people look for the “best” wine. I always ask them “best for what?” Every wine has a place and time for appreciating (unless it just is a wine that really sucks…), and it’s more important for people to figure out what types of wine they like, and why, than what others think is the best. Trust your own palate rather than what a critic or others say.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JAMIE: Thanks for having me, and for appreciating and featuring our wines!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Rival Wine Paso Robles Syrah

Mission Codename: One’s own potentialities

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to our longtime friends at Hahn Family Wines, a winery whose Syrah we first fell in love with during a mission in early 2007. Procure their stunning 2007 Rival Syrah, from Paso Robles’ West Side.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Hahn Family Wines

Wine Subject: 2007 Paso Robles West Side Syrah

Winemaker: Paul Clifton

Backgrounder: The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a big and bold delight with richly dark flavors, deep aromatics and a plush mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Regional Backgrounder: Paso Robles, located in California’s southern central coast region in San Luis Obisbo county is well known as one of the earliest regions where vines were grown in California with records indicating grapes have been harvested since the 1790s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple, with an inky core of darkest purple. Color is deeply and evenly concentrated, from core to edge. When swirled, the wine coats the inside of the glass, gradually resolving into skinny, wine-stained, slow-moving tears.

Smell – Bold and dark, led by smoky blackberry, black cherry and dried violets. After getting a little air, the wine reveals earthy mushroom, smoked meats, sage, brown tobacco leaf, black pepper and a hint of leather.

Feel – Plush and full-bodied, this wine coats the mouth almost instantly, taking on a chewiness that gradually builds as dryness encroaches from the edges of the palate. Firm tannins and balanced acidity support the dark, concentrated flavors all the way through the long finish.

Taste – Concentrated and bold, with flavors of ripe blackberry, smoky boysenberry, black cherry, earthy bramble, dried dark flower petals, and soft spice. After some swirling, the wine reveals complex undertones of leather, black pepper and dried fall leaves.

Finish – Long and very flavorful, with dark fruit that lingers on and on, eventually yielding to earthy dried flowers, spice and earth.

Conclusion – A truly outstanding wine, this Syrah is a deliciously bold, fruit-driven and extracted wine that delivers a big experience – without being overpowering. This is a feat for many wines from Paso Robles, where flavors can be over-driven – for those that are accustomed to a more restrained style. Rich, complex and dark, this wine carries itself perfectly when sipped alone or paired with food. the 2007 vintage was such a superior year for California wines, and this Syrah lives up to the expectations we now have of the ‘07 vintage! If you enjoy juicy, ripe, expressive Syrah, then this wine deserves a place on your table, and in your cellar.

Mission Report:

We are searching for the elusive Paul Clifton. We have no interview, today, but we’ll be certain to catch up with this busy winemaker the next time we feature another great Hahn Family wine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

Paso Robles’ fabled West Side can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Arnaldo Caprai Rosso Outsider IGT

Mission Codename: The Outsider

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a very limited allocation of an exclusive Umbrian classic

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Arnaldo Caprai

Wine Subject: 2004 Rosso Outsider IGT

Backgrounder:

Today’s wine hales fro the Montefalco region located south of Perugia in the Umbria region of West Central Italy, is famous for producing one of the most unique and distinctive wines of Italy. The wines of this region are made from the Sagrantino, Sangiovese and Grechetto grapes along with other non-indigenous varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and others.

In just the last decade, IGT wines became the latest rage in Italian wine in the United States, however, their story goes back to the late 1940s when the famed Sassicaia wine was reportedly made by Incisa della Rochetta using Cabernet Sauvignon vines from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, or so the legend goes. Broadly, wines designated as Indicazione Geographica Tipica (IGT) could be considered vin de pays. Many of these wines are native grape based with the addition of other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and all are unique blends that gives the winery much more flexibility with regard to the more stringentGoria DOC and DOCG designations.

Today’s wine however, is only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in an even 50%-50% split aged for 18 months in French oak.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautifully dark and dense ruby red but is nearly black in its inky heart. Along the edges the the ruby color becomes more apparent and when swirled tight clusters of thin color-stained legs ring the glass and descend at varying speeds.

Smell – Bold and complex aromatics with classic varietal scents of black fruit including dark berries and black licorice and toasted oak. Notes of sweet spice, dark bittersweet chocolate, sweet spice and hints of green herbs lingers and leads you to take a sip.

Feel – Velvet smooth, warm and round on its entry then at mid palate the sturdy but extremely fine grained tannins blend with its lively acidity and powdered minerality creating an expansive and chewy mouth feel.

Taste – Rich and intense but well developed and integrated as well with abundant ripe dark fruit including blackberry, black cherry, plum and cassis that blend with black licorice, toasted oak, sweet and hot spice and bittersweet chocolate.

Finish – Extremely long with the dark berries fading first leaving lingering licorice, bittersweet chocolate, spice and a touch of bitter cherry pit; the terroir driven minerality and finely grained tannins dries the palate as you reach for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2004 Arnaldo Caprai Rosso Outsider IGT is an elegant and sturdy wine with great varietal character and a great rustic Italian quality. A warm and inviting wine with enough complexity to please the critics but still approachable. In its prime now, enjoy this wine tonight or cellar for a few years. Pair with pan grilled rib-eye steaks, prepared Florentinestyle with garlic, rosemary, olive oil, cracked black pepper and coarse sea-salt.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Arnaldo Caprai in the Montefalcoregion can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Vinum Cellars Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Taste 1 of 1800

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Return to Vinum Cellars and acquire their extremely limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon for our Elite Operative Saturday

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Vinum Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Richard Bruno, Chris Condos

Backgrounder:

We all love Napa’s Cult Cabs, with many receiving the top ratings, awards and accolades. We deserve these wines, but at prices of $100-200 – or more, they are difficult to justify in these difficult economic times. This is the motivation behind our mission to bring you today’s superior wine.

In today’s selection, we’ve been negotiating with the winery to be able to offer you this exceptional, and extremely small production wine (only 6 barrels), at an unbelievable one-day only price. Once this wine gets out into the mainstream, it will be gone fast. This is your chance to stock up for your own Cult Cellar Collection.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Extremely dark with a beautifully dense purple robe and an nearly black but barely clear heart. Along the edges the color lightens just slightly to deep garnet-purple and when swirled, fat color-stained legs widely ring the glass and are followed by thinner legs that hang before slowly descending.

Smell – Bold and rich with classic black-fruit Cabernet aromas including blackberry, black cherry and cassis. Add in a framework of cedar cigar box and toasted oak, hot spice and classic green herb and vegital notes for a healthy dose of complexity that invites a long contemplative sip.

Feel – This full-bodied, expansive, dry wine has expansive highly textured finely grained firm tannins and lively acidity. Dusty textured minerality blends with the mouth-filling tannins and lingers into the finish.

Taste – Abundant black fruit including blackberry, black cherry, cassis and dark plum lead off with the green herb and vegital notes following in succession. Notes of sweet tobacco, cedar cigar box, hot spice, toasted oak and white pepper linger and frame the delicious fruit.

Finish – Extremely long, textured and generous with the fruit cleanly fading away leaving notes of the other complex flavors to be framed by the spice and minerality.

Conclusion – The 2006 Vinum Cellars Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a pleasant, varietally pure wine that is both complex in aromas and flavors but with great focus as well. Perhaps still young, you’ll want to decant this wine or let it breathe or cellar for ten years or more. A great wine to pair with your classic grilled porterhouse steak or simply sitting on the porch on a clear starry-night evening with someone special. Ah, the simple life is most delicious!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Richard Bruno

WINE EDUCATION: Fermentation Science (Enology) from the University of California at Davis. Prior to that 12 years in San Francisco fine Dining including: Rubicon, Masa’s and Zuni Cafe. I worked with MS Larry Stone at Rubicon.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Don Sebastiani & Sons, Director of Winemaking 2001-2009 Niebaum-Coppola, Consultant 1999-2001 Tom Eddy & Associates, Consultant 1998-1999 Started Vinum Cellars, 1997 Bonny Doon Vineyard, Distiller 1996-1997 Gloria Ferrer Winery 1995, Harvest Intern 1995 Storybook Mountain Winery, Harvest Worker 1994

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: In the vineyard – To work with growers to maximize quality in the vineyard and harvest at optimal maturity. In the Winery – We use traditional winemaking practices, but use a variety of yeast strains to maximize the varietal character of each wine. As a rule, we use only French oak, but the newest barrels are second year (used once, we buy from another winery’s white program). We prefer integrated flavors, not heavy handed oak aromas or flavors.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Wine is a part of a healthy lifestyle (if consumed in moderation), therefore it should be affordable.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: June 1st, 1998

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Richard, and welcome back. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 RESERVE Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RICHARD BRUNO: Thanks Agent Red, this special Reserve Cabernet is a limited-production wine that we are very pleased to share with your Operatives.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RICHARD: I don’t remember the exact first time, but my mother is a wonderful cook. Not an Alice Waters, more of a Julia Child type cook; my family’s roots are from the Mid-west and East Coast. Anyway, while in High School (and playing a lot of Soccer), my mom would cook early dinners (after practice) and serve a little wine that went with the evening’s meal that she and a friend would prepare. Her friend had a great cellar and brought over a lot of cool stuff like Guigals from the 1970s, Napa Cabs from the 60s and 70s and the occassional Chateau Palmer or Margaux. I was always taken by the importance of wine’s role with a meal based on these experiences. Sometimes I wish I could go back to those days.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RICHARD: My old boss, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. I was so intrigued to learn how to make Old World wines from new world grapes.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RICHARD: I have always made wine for myself, by shunning too much oak in favor of a more European Food-Friendly style.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RICHARD: The 2006 RESERVE Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine that we made just 6 barrels of (137cases) – and we only have less than 40 cases left. It comes from a vineyard near Atlas Peak on a dry farmed, gravelly hillside that produces very small berried, intense Cabernet grapes due to the low yields and well drained soils. 2006 was one of our finest vintages for Cabernet which is why we felt it worthy to select a reserve from this lot. We picked the best 6 barrels and left them in their same barrels for 30 months. The result is a massive cellar candidate which we think will hit optimal maturity between 2016 and 2020.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RICHARD: This wine is well suited for grass fed beef dishes. I like a bone-in rib eye with dry-rubbed spices and served with any kind of mushroom reduction, although Morels are best. If you don’t eat meat, anything mushroom and/or eggplant based will pair well with the juicy fruit and woodsy tannins.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

RICHARD: The Napa Valley is arguably the best appellation year to year for Cabernet Sauvignon next to the Bordeaux region in France. It is an ideal area due to warm days moderated by afternoon fog, so the grapes ripen slowly and maintain their natural acidity longer.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RICHARD: We are bottling like crazy as we prepare for another harvest. Since it has been very cool (cold actually) this vintage, the quality will be very good, but the yields will be down.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RICHARD: Relaxed and without ceremony. It’s wine, not a painting. I think our wines are so balanced that people often don’t notice how good they are until second or third sip.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RICHARD: I still feel like I’m 21, but I’m still trying to figure out who that guy is that is looking back at me in the mirror every morning.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

2008 Cass Winery Rockin’ One

Mission Codename: For those about to rock!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Accompany new recruit, Agent Neutron, on a mission to locate a superior red blend from the Paso Robles region. If her pick meets our exacting criteria for quality, secure an ample quantity for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cass Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Rockin’ One

Winemaker: Lood Kotze

Backgrounder: Wine Spies Operatives love Rhone-style red blends whose primary composition is usually Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre (sometimes referred to as a ’GSM’). Today’s red Rhone could be called a SMG/PS as it leads off with Syrah, and ends with a nifty addition of Petite Sirah, giving the wine a fruity-richness that offsets some of the gaminess usually associated with California GSM’s. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below for the full details on today’s great wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark black plum hues at with dense and nearly solid core of darkest red-black. At the edge of the glass, a fine line of purple encircles the wine. After swirling, chubby legs form high on the inside of the glass, before they run slowly downward.

Smell – Lush and heady with bold fruit of ripe blackberry, black cherry, dark plum, toasty vanilla pastry and dark blueberry. These are underpinned by more subtle aromas of stewed fig, cocoa powder, earthen red cherry, white pepper and a hint strawberry candy.

Feel – Plush and round at the tip of the tongue, the wine then glides across the mid-palate. After you swallow, a soft dryness gradually spreads around the palate, to the corners of the mouth, eventually drying cheeks and lips.

Taste – Rich and layered, with flavors of black cherry juice, blackberry juice, black plum and braised black fig in the lead. As the wine opens up, additional flavors of cassis, unsweetened licorice, white pepper and flint.

Finish -Very long and flavor-filled, dark fruit lingers as licorice, flint and pepper appear. Then, flavors all tail off slowly, leaving behind a chew feel and soft dryness that encourage another generous sip.

Conclusion – We featured our first Rockin’ One a few years ago, with the stellar 2005 vintage. True to form, Cass continues its tradition of fun and deliciocity with its flagship blend. Today’s 2008 Paso Robles Rockin’ One Estate Cuvee delivers big flavor with a fun and elegant feel. Aromatics are big and layered and the wine has great acid balance, making it a perfect companion for rich or spicy foods. We enjoyed ours with juicy lamb burgers, right off the grill. Enjoy this wine now, or cellar for a couple of years. Decant for best results and, most of all, enjoy this juicy and delicious Paso treat from our friends at Cass!

Mission Report:

AGENT RED: Hi Lood! We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Rockin’ One today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

LOOD KOTZE: Agent Red.It is good to see you, again.

RED: Wow. Is it always this hot here in Paso Robles?

LOOD: Not quite always, but, yes, it gets hot here.

RED: What effect does that have on the grapes – and the wines that are made from them?

LOOD: It’s hard to generalize about Paso Robles, but I would say that the wines from here are deeper and more concentrated. They are very rich, intense and strongly flavored. People love Paso wines for their accessibility. I think that wines from here are more universally appealing. Paso Robles is a very unique and diverse wine region, with many micro climates and soils. It has the potential of creating world class wines. It still has the non-corporate wine culture.

RED: Tell me, Lood, who do you make wines for?

LOOD: I tend to make wines that I personally like to drink. Luckily, that happens to match up with what fans of our wines also like!

RED: Good thing. I think that left to their own devices, some winemakers would end up making wines that only they like! Tell me, what would you say is your winemaking style?

LOOD: Well, I really believe that the terroir give the quality of a wine and the winemaker just maintains the quality. Great wine really begins in great vineyards. Starting with the best fruit, I tend to allow the wine to do its own thing with minimal input.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

LOOD: I grew up in wine country, surrounded by vineyards, and having family in the business, it was almost inevitable that I would work in the wine business.

RED: Do you ever have to tweak a wine at all?

LOOD: Of course, but always in the most subtle ways possible. Really, the vineyard does most of the work, I just take care of the wine throughout the process.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

LOOD: I’ve been influenced by every winemaker I worked for, winemaking is constant learning.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

LOOD: We are getting close to harvest season. We recently finished a couple bottlings of 09’s, and I am currently racking 2010 reds.

RED: Listen, I love Cass wines. The Rockin’ One is honestly the best Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre blend I have ever tasted.

LOOD: It is a great wine. Most blends of this style are usually reductive and austere. The Rockin’ One is way expressive and very delicious.

RED: It rocks!

LOOD: Indeed!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Cass Winery and the Rockin’ One vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Saddleback Cellars Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The Kings Cabernet

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Saddleback Cellars and negotiate with winemaker, Nils Venge, for the latest vintage of his exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Saddleback Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Winemaker: Nils Venge

Backgrounder: The Oakville AVA, centrally located and adjacent to Napa Valley’s famous Rutherford AVA, was established in July 1993. Oakville is considered on of the most diverse AVA’s in the Napa area and grows some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon in California. This wine is produced by the famed Nils Venge who is widely considered to be one of the best Cabernet winemakers in the region and is aptly named the ‘King of Cabernet’. In 1982, Nils was the first California winemaker to win a 100 point score from Robert Parker, Jr.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark, dense and evenly concentrated purple hues, from edge on through to the clear but darker core. When swirled, chubby, color-stained legs ring the glass, moving slowly downward.

Smell – Warm, jammy jammy berry pie and black cherry, followed by ripe and sweet blackberry, bramble and red plum. Big oak is present, at first, but subsides significantly as the wine opens up. As it opens, it reveals baking spice, softly toasted oak, mocha, cedar and tobacco.

Feel – Plush, warm and generous with a body that starts soft and middle-weight. After a moment, the wine settles onto the tongue where it gradually becomes bigger and more mouth-filling. Firm, developed tannins at mid-palate give the wine a chewy feel.

Taste – Ripe, dark and jammy with red and black fruits (from the nose) that are framed by flinty baking spice, mocha, soft black pepper, cigar box and soft oak.

Finish – Extra long, with plenty of fruit and earthy bramble lingering for a long time. Gradually, these fade, and the palate enjoys a plush, crushed velvet dryness that supports spice and oak.

Conclusion – The 2006 Saddleback Cellars Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, bold, complex and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers the big Napa Valley style that so many love. We were lucky enough to feature Nils’ 2005 Cabernet last year and this, his latest vintage, reinforces our belief that Nils is still the King of Cabernet. With plenty of dark fruit and firm tannins this is a Cab that is built to be bold – but it has a soft side, as well. Just be sure to decant this wine for best results. We decanted a bottle for an hour and we were rewarded with a softer wine with better fruit and less pronounced oak. While many wineries are releasing their 2008s or 2009s, Nils holds his Cabs until they are ready. This is admirable, as release schedules can so often be driven by economic concerns, rather than by quality. Ready to drink now, this is a wine that could age for another decade or more. Be sure to buy a few bottles – to enjoy now, and later.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

NILS VENGE: Most of the grapes come from our Oakville Estate with the remainder from Star Vineyards in Rutherford. The 2006 vintage is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

NILS: Grilled New York steaks with a compound Blue Cheese Butter.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Oakville sub-appellation (in the Napa Valley) so special a place for Cabernet Sauvignon?

NILS: Oakville soils are excellent for expressing aromas, black stone fruit, balance, and elegance.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

NILS: Preparing the vineyard for the 2011 harvest season.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Saddleback Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Benessere Vineyards Napa Valley Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Who Knew?

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Re-infiltrate Benessere Vineyards, this time to secure an exclusive allocation of their exceptional 2007 Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Benessere Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Pinot Noir, Napa Valley

Winemaker: Jack Stuart

Winery Backgrounder: For those of you Operatives that have been with us for the last four and a half years, Benessere Vineyards has become a likely favorite for you – as they have for us here at Wine Spies HQ. Benessere is on a mission of their own, to craft small lots of wines that are the ultimate expression of varietal and terroir.

Varietal Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir. Pinot thrives here. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic Pinot Noir.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – With dark ruby hues – from the heart of this pretty wine right out to the edge of the glass – this wine maintains evenly concentrated color. Swirl and the wine settles quickly, leaving behind tall columns of closely-spaced legs that take a long time to run down the inside of the glass.

Smell – Layered and fragrant, leading with candied black cherry, raspberry, Bing cherry and spiced black tea. These sit right atop hard leather, soft sweetwoods, flinty minerals, earth and kola nut.

Feel – Smooth, soft and light-weight on the initial attack. As the wine glides across the mid-palate, it takes on a slightly grippy and full-bodied feel. As it settles in, fine-grained tannins add a softly-dry crushed velvet texture. After the wine leaves the palate, a flinty dryness and soft spicy tang persist.

Taste – Exploding with flavor, this wine leads with black cherry juice, young strawberry, spiced cherry hard candy, dried black tea leaf and red plum. Beneath these, as the wine opens up, sweetwoods, gunpowder, soft earth, leather and soft spice round out the bevvy of flavors.

Finish – Very long, with red fruit slowly giving way to an extended presence of black tea, forest floor and leather. As these fade, a flinty minerality and zingy spice linger onward for a while longer.

Conclusion – The 2007 Benessere Pinot Noir – Carneros, Napa Valley is a truly delicious wine. While we have come to equate Benessere with wonderful Zinfandels and Zin Blends, we are getting to know their other single varietal wines, as well. Each of them are, simply, fantastic. Today’s Pinot Noir is a delicious, complex, bold and very flavorful wine that delivers a plush feel and deep aromatics. If you love great Carneros Pinot Noir, you’ll be impressed by this compelling and flavor-filled wine. Enjoy a clean and lively, softly spicy finish, with black pepper and subtle brown spice that appear at the very end. Pair this flexible wine with grilled lamb, pork tenderloin or a wild mushroom polenta. Enjoy now, or cellar for the next few years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jack Stuart

WINE EDUCATION: At my mother’s knee (age 4, in an Italian restaurant); my father’s first interest in Cabernets (when they were $3 a bottle); early underage experience in San Francisco bistros (back when you could get served); extensive travel in France and Italy; Robert Finnegan’s Private Guide to Wine (he was the Parker of the 1970s and an early booster of Domaine Dujac); Hugh Johnson’s World Atlas of Wine; an assorted case of European wines given to my wife and me as a wedding present by the father of a college friend; and two years of graduate school in the Master’s program at UC Davis.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: First commercial winemaking position: Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley, 1978 and 1979; my first Cabernet won a Gold Medal at the Orange County Fair. Longest-held position: Winemaker & General Manager of Silverado Vineyards, Stags Leap District, 1980 to 2004; in 1987 I was the first American to receive the Robert Mondavi Trophy for Winemaker of the Year award from the International Wine & Spirit Competition in London. Most closely held position: Winemaker & Partner of Trivium Wine, a local partnership making 400 cases of St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon. Most recent position: WM & GM, Benessere Vineyards, since January.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Let the variety and the place speak (or sing!) in the wine. Not overripe, not over-alcoholic, graceful, flavorful and balanced.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”If two glasses of that wine will land you in the pokey or in the ditch, then it’s too damn alcoholic.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1978 Durney Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, released 1981. Recently opened a bottle of this wine to celebrate my son-in-law’s birthday (he was born that year), and it was amazing: still purple red, primary fruit aromas, lovely flavors and balance!

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jack. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Napa Carneros Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JACK: Thank, Red. Great to be with you, again.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JACK: Martin Ray Saratoga Cabernet Sauvignon, 1960-something, tasted in the late sixties or early seventies; my first experience with new French oak in a California wine. Two wines from 1970: Ch. Mouton, bought for $20, and BV Private Reserve, bought for $8.33; both rich, elegant, pure expression of Cabernet Sauvignon.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JACK: Myself, and consumers who appreciate what I’m trying to do. Chasing reviews destroys the soul.

AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JACK: Pinot Noir is a seductive temptress! When good, it is a complex blend of fruit, soft glove leather and perfumed earth. It has smooth flavors of crushed cherries, rose petals and caramel with a bright entry, lush mid-palate and seamless, lingering finish.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?
JACK: Pair this wine with vegetable pasta, lamb chops, salmon steak, and fine milk chocolates.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Carneros region so special?

JACK: Our version of Pinot Noir, which we think is loaded with ripe cherry fruit and cranberry juice aromas, is a great example of why the Carneros region is renowned for Pinot Noir.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JACK: Come visit our tasting room at 1010 Big Tree Road in St. Helena, and you can try them. Expect wines that don’t taste like what you had last night. In a world of Cabernet, we’re doing something different. There is nearly infinite variety in the world of wine, which is what makes it more interesting than vodka, so keep trying new wines from people and places you’ve never heard of.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JACK: We’ve had a wet spring and mild summer so far this year, and the vines are lovin’ it! There were two-and-a-half inches of rain in June, ten times the average, and a cooler than normal July—no ten-day heat waves this year. Véraison, the softening and coloring of the grapes, didn’t begin upvalley until the first week of August, and if it weren’t for a significantly smaller crop than last year, we’d really be sweating harvest. As it is, things won’t kick into gear until late September or early October. Come see us after the kids are back to school!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JACK: Yes. The two most important things you need to know about wine is (1) what you like and (2) where to find it. Don’t be buffaloed by critics or intimidated by waiters—drink what YOU think is good. Red wine with fish is okay. The only rule is: Don’t drink and drive.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Benessere Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Jana Wines Cathedral Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend

Mission Codename: The Church of Bordeaux

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to our good friends, Jana and Scott Harvey, and acquire the newest vintage of their Cathedral, a delicious Napa Valley Bordeaux Style Blend

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Jana Wines (Scott Harvey Wines)

Wine Subject: 2004 Cathedral Napa Valley Bordeaux Style Red Blend

Winemaker: Scott Harvey

Backgrounder: Bordeaux wines are usually a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet France, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere. In France, perfection is achieved with the perfect balance of these grapes. In California’s Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns supreme with large crops of Merlot and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Franc. Today’s 2005 Cathedral is a masterful blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, blended from choice barrels, by master winemaker, Scott Harvey.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby with crimson edging, and a slightly darker core. When the wine settles, after a hearty swirl, tall wine-stained legs for high on the glass wall, and then march slowly downward.

Smell – Medium in intensity with an intoxicating dark fruit perfume that leads with dark mixed berry jam, dark chocolate, spice and brambly blackberry. As the wine opens up, earthy notes of dark dried flower petals, espresso bean and toasty oak round out the nose.

Feel – Smooth and round up front, the wine glides across the mid-palate. Then the wine fills out on the rear-palate, adding weight and dimension. The wine shows a fine balance between power and finesse, with textured tannins and a mild acidity. After a moment, this wine becomes mouth-coating and almost chewy, with a solid structure that lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Dark blackberry, plum and black cherry are integrated with dried violets, leather, licorice, softly burnt espresso bean, soft cedar, spice and dark chocolate.

Finish – Rich and long with flavorful, bold fruit that is supported by the wines smooth, mouth-coating structure. As the fruit fades, hints of spice, oak, dark chocolate and espresso persist for a long time.

Conclusion – We are blessed to be able to follow our favorite winemakers, vintage after vintage, experiencing the evolution of their skill and style. Scott Harvey has blended another fantastic Bordeaux-style blend with today’s exceptional 2005 Cathedral, made under his Jana label. This wine is complex and delicious, with big, dark flavors and deep aromatics. With more than enough Cabernet in the wine to allow it to be legally designated simply as ”Cabernet Sauvignon”, this wine is much more; Though the relative percentages of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc may seem small, each varietal has presence, with the Petite adding depth and the Franc adding a bit of lift. Drinking beautifully right now, this delicious wine will continue to develop for years to come. Be sure to hold a bottle or two back in the cellar – if you have the patience!.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Jana Wines and Scott Harvey Wines can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 David Fulton Winery & Vineyards Old Vines Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Roots run deep

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Our Operatives loved David Fulton Winery’s spectacular 2007 Old Vine Petite Sirah. Send Agent Red back to the winery, to raid the winery’s secret Library stash, and return with an allotment of their 2006 Old Vine Petite Sirah.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: David Fulton Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 St. Helena – Napa Valley Petite Sirah

Backgrounder: St Helena, and most of Napa Valley for that matter, is dedicated to creating some of the world’s finest wines. When we heard about David Fulton’s St. Helena Petite Sirah, we dispatched Agent Red to investigate. Some of California’s oldest old-vine Petite Sirah are planted right here, by David Fulton, who established what is now the oldest, continually owned family vineyard in the Napa Valley.

Varietal Backgrounder: Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark magenta, with a darker core. At the edge of the glass, a ring of garnet runs a circle around the wine. After swirling this wine, the bowl of the wine glass is coated with light magenta. The coasting coalesces into super-skinny wine stained tears move very slowly to the wine below.

Smell – Bold, ripe and perfumed, with lush blackberry, blueberry, plum and cedar as primary notes. As the wine breathes, additional aromas of black tea, savory herb pastry, leather, spice, India black tea leaf, cocoa powder and a hint of toasty oak.

Feel – Cool and soft on initial entry. Then, the wine settles onto the mid-palate, where it takes on a fuller body with plush tannins. The wine continues to evolve in the mouth, with a spreading dryness that succumbs to a soft, grippy dryness.

Taste – Delicious! Very flavorful, with bold, mouth-filling flavors of softly spiced blackberry jam, dark plum skin, violets, dusty bramble and soft bakers chocolate. At the very end, hints of black pepper and dried leaves continue on.

Finish – Very long and very flavorful, with the fruit and earthen flavors slowly fading in equal proportion. As these fade, black pepper and dried fall leaves persist for a long time.

Conclusion – We are, once again, blown away by a David Fulton’ Petite Sirah. We were absolutely crazy for the 2007, but this 2006 David Fulton Petite Sirah has more flavor, more finesse and more complexity. This wine is bold and deeply flavorful, with aromatics that had us inhaling the wine long before taking our first sip. Pair with a hearty meat dish, spicy foods or, well, nearly anything. This wine holds its own with nearly any food we tried it with. This wine gets our heartiest recommendation.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the David Fulton Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Oriel Wines Jocunda Gigondas AOC

Mission Codename: Joyfully Celebrated

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a top notch Gigondas for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Oriel Wines

Wine Subject: 2005 Jocunda Gigondas AOC

Winemaker: Louis Barruol

Backgrounder:

The Gigondas AOC is located just across the river from the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and adjacent to the famed villages of Lirac and Tavel. Under the watchful eye of the dramatically rugged Dentelles de Montmirail, known for its lacy look and not teeth as most visitors assume (Dentelle means lace, dents means teeth in French).

The wines of Gigondas must be made with no more than 80% Grenache, at least 15% of Syrah and Mourvedre with the remainder being no more than 10% of any local grape except Carignan.

Today fantastic wine, from Oriel Wines and winemaker Louis Barruol, is 70% Grenache and 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Stunningly dark purple with garnet tints that barely shine though its clear but dense core. A slightly lighter shade of garnet along the edges and when swirled, tightly spaced tears that fatten as the descend ring the glass.

Smell – Both aromatic but also restrained with a classic old world nose that balances dark fruit of plum and both black and red cherry, smokey and toasted oak, fresh and savory garden herbs, spice and earthy undertones.

Feel – Crushed velvet smooth and finely textured attack, this full bodied wine is dry and very well balanced with supple but firm tannins, dusty minerality and amble acidity holds everything together.

Taste – Ripe red and black fruit including red cherry, blackberry, plum and other dark fruit lead the way and are framed by all the complexity found on the nose, but especially its savory herbs, smokey oak and earthy undertones. A touch of cedar and spice box and sweet tobacco adds further depth.

Finish – Very clean and medium long with the ripe red fruit fading first leaving behind textural notes that lingers with the other complex flavors of this wine.

Conclusion – The 2005 Oriel Wines Jocunda Gigondas AOC is a fantastic old-world wine that shows great finesse and elegance. A classic nose and flavor profile with a structure that holds everything together. Restrained and balanced, layers of aromas and flavors that reveal themselves slowly and deliberately. A great food wine to pair with herb roasted chicken, pork loin or with aged hard cheeses. Enjoy this wine tonight or cellar for the next five years, that is if you have the patience.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Gigondas AOC can be seen in this satellite photo.