2008 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Aglianico

Mission Codename: First Growth

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, and secure a limited allocation of their unique and delicious Aglianico, a wine that is a favorite among Jacuzzi winery visitors and wine club members

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2008 Aglianico – Paso Robles

Winemaker: Charlie Tsegeletos

Backgrounder:

Aglianico (pronounced, roughly “ah-LYAH-nee-koe”) is a black grape grown in the Basilicata and Campania regions of southern Italy. The vine originated in Greece and was brought to the south of Italy by Greek settlers. The name may be a corruption of Vitis hellenica, Latin for “Greek vine”. In early Roman times, it was the principal grape of the famous Falernian wine – which was the Roman equivalent of a First Growth wine today.

Here in California, a very number of producers grow this grape. Our friends at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards have crafted a uniquely delicious Aglianico that is well worthy of your attention.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Gorgeous dark garnet hues with perfectly concentrated color, from core to edge. After a hearty swirl, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind chubby, slow-forming, slow-moving legs that meander down the wall of the glass.

Smell – Bold and bright, with dark cherry and Bing cherry, plum and black licorice. These sit atop cocoa dust, soft baking spice, hard strawberry candy and a hint of dry dark earth.

Feel – Light and cool on the attack, bright and fine. At the mid palate, firm tannins frame the flavors and coat the mouth, giving the wine a very well-structured feel.

Taste – Wild black plum, blackberry and chocolate dust lead thee charge. Then, Bing cherry, red plum, dark strawberry, cranberry, dark spice, black pepper and a fine minerality appear.

Finish – Long and flavor-filled, with dark fruit yielding to dark fruit and minerals, all supported and sustained by spice and black pepper.

Conclusion – The 2008 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Aglianico is a delicious southern Italian-style wine that delivers a great deal of excitement – and originality. Italian varietals are known to be picked before the usual California standard for ripeness, making them brighter and less fruit forward. Usually. This Cali-born Aglianico is darker than most Italian varietals we have shown in recent times, delivering a dark fruit that is balanced by a bright acidity and solid tannin structure. This wine is bold and very flavorful, but not overbearing. Pair with a spicy pizza, or spaghetti with a spicy Italian marinara.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Charlie Tsegeletos

WINE EDUCATION: 30 years of working with winemakers and growers that know what they are doing and what it takes to make good wine. BS Ag Sci and Management and Plant Science from UCD.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Apprentice Winemaker with tiny Pendleton Winery in San Jose; Assistant Winemaker with family owned Hacienda Winery in Sonoma; Winemaker for historic D’Agostini Winery in Amador County; Senior Director of Winemaking for ground breaking Glen Ellen Winery in Glen Ellen; Winemaker for fun-loving Cline Cellars and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards in Sonoma

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balance is everything. Make big flavorful red wines that have sharp edges and make crisp, fresh white wines that tantalize.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Put ten of your favorite wines in a brown paper bags and taste them blind with your friends. I think you’ll like our wines.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1981 Pendleton Monterey Chardonnay released in early ’82.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Charlie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Aglianico today. This is a unique wine, and we thank you for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

CHARLIE: Thanks for having me, again!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

CHARLIE: A bottle of 1974 Charles Krug Reserve Cab spun my head around and I wanted to have a go at making something like that.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CHARLIE: I’ve had a chance to work with a lot of winemakers over the years and each has his “special” winemaking secrets and some of them even work. Joel Aiken who had been the Beaulieu Vineyards winemaker for years once asked me what my wine stood for and that really made me think that each wine I make should stand for something – in other words it should have it’s own signature and not just taste like something else in the lineup.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

CHARLIE: I make it according to my sense of balance and that seems to work out okay for the consumers, sales folks and reviewers. I do listen to what folks say about the wine and then try and refine the wine each vintage.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

CHARLIE: You are showcasing our 2008 Jacuzzi Aglianico. It is 100% Aglianico and the grapes were grown in San Luis Obispo County. We produced under 700 cases of this wine and it is our first year of production.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

CHARLIE: This is a wine of great structure (medium plus tannin) and lovely fig and cherry flavors. It pairs beautifully with flavorful meat dishes or a big flavorful Greek dish and you’ll know why in a minute.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Paso Robles appellation so special?

CHARLIE: The vineyard is about 25 miles east of the town of San Luis Obispo. It gets warm during the day and but it is cooled by breezes from the Pacific Ocean in the late afternoon so you get great ripening and good acid. Really – that is the best of both worlds.
On a historical note it is thought that this grape came to Southern Italy from Greece by way of the Phoenicians. The name is derived from “Ellenico” which is an Italian adjective meaning “Greek”. It may have come to Italy in the 7th Century BC so you get a time machine with every bottle.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CHARLIE: We have had a lot of visitors lately– from local to international so I have been a tour guide.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

CHARLIE: Pour it, ponder it and drink it. You’ll know if you like it and if my sense of balance works for you too.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

CHARLIE: Don’t take it too seriously – remember it started out as a grape.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Jacuzzi Family Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Centorame Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C.

Mission Codename: 100 Percent Authentic

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit Italy’s Abruzzi and acquire an exclusive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Azienda Agricola Centorame

Wine Subject: 2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C.

Winemaker: Lori Di Sabatino

Backgrounder:

The Abruzzi, located along the east-central is home to the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C., perhaps the region’s finest wines. Generally made with the Montepulciano grape with the allowed addition of up to 15% Sangiovese the wines come in two styles, one, like this one, are deep rich and round, and the other tends to be more tannic and firm. The vineyards in the rolling hills above the coastal plain (where most of the mass-produced wines are made) offers a distinct soil and climate capable of top-shelf wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautifully dark purple with deep ruby red hues that grace the edges and barely shine through in its dense but clear heart. When swirled, slow and evenly spaced color stained legs ring the glass.

Smell – Rich and ripe aromas or black cherry, red plum and other ripe dark fruit blend with soft savory herbs and sweet spice. Add in notes of earth, floral violets and mocha coffee for an invitation to take a sip.

Feel – This full-bodied dry wine has silky smooth and round tannins and soft acidity leading to an expansive and almost chewy feel on the palate.

Taste – Plenty of dark fruit, but slightly more restrained than the nose would otherwise indicate, with black cherry, red plum and blackberry folded into a soft earthy and toasted oak frame. Complex notes of mocha coffee, sweet spice, savory green herbs and the slightly hint of licorice add to the experience.

Finish – Long and lingering with earthy ripe fruit leading the way as the soft texture gently fades with a slightly drying of the palate begging for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2008 Centorame Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. is a delicious wine that showcases the round and ripe character for which the region is best known. A pleasant nose soft round mouth-feel, rich and ripe fruit flavors makes this a perfect wine to pair with milder game meats, baked tomato sauce pastas or a hearty bolognese. Enjoy this wine tonight or for the next five to seven years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Lori Di Sabatino

WINE EDUCATION: A graduate in Oenology

WINE JOB BRIEF: We work exclusively and do not purchase our grapes from other wine companies.Each wine is made from its own vineyards, and we are the only indigenous grapes.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Vinify our grapes respecting the fruit without upsetting those who are the aromas of the grape that we are making wine, and without using special yeasts or invasive, but not always are made vinification with temperature control in fermentation and long maceration on the skins on red (even 40 days).

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Centorame Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Doc 2002 out in April 2003

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Lori. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

LORI: Thank you for featuring our delicious 2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo!

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

LORI: We have the vineyards since 1987 and always to sell their grapes to other wineries until I decided at age 23 in 2001 to experiment with winemaking at home even when you buy two barrels used. It turned out a great product even on a good vintage and from there the following year in 2002 decided to start thinking big.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

LORI: I consider myself fortunate because I did not have any influence in the sense that I did not experience at any store so I created my own method of work that is just my belief and I work as a distinguishing otherwise I would have been learned. As for the wines I seek elegance are then influenced by the great elegant wines.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

LORI: I had a small company that produces only 85,000 bottles a year I produce my wines in my interpretation of that grape. I do not run behind fashion, trends, etc.. produces primarily for the wines before me as I want them to be and then offer them to consumers trying to convey what the wine to the crowd.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

LORI: The Centorame Montepulciano Montepulciano I call it a Genuine. Genuine because it is vinified in the traditional manner, powerful tannins, not aged in wood, and although it is a wine company based remote annni becomes a fabulous wine. Pleasant is not as challenging as it could be a Montepulciano and rich fruit of his vine (amarasca, plum, cherry).

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

LORI: Surely the veal on the grill.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Abruzzi so special?

LORI: The location in the heart of Italy, we are at 15 km from the sea and 50 from the Gran Sasso Mountain. The food we eat really well and so genuine. And even the sea is beautiful

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

LORI: These days we are preparing for the event “Open Cellars” in the day Saturday, May 28 will open its doors to visitors, and show with work in the vineyard and winery. And in the evening there will be lots of music and wine tasting events.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

LORI: Council always try wines that reflect the characteristics of the variety of origin and not pimps and some wines designed desk, approved wines that seem to grape juice but sometimes can be a little ‘rustic’.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of Centorame can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Adobe Road Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Third Dimension

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Adobe Road Winery. Secure the latest vintage of their distinctive Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Adobe Road Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Michael Scorsone

Backgrounder: The Sonoma Coast AVA, established in 1987, is the area directly adjacent to the Pacific coastline of Sonoma County. The ocean’s influence causing a cooler, higher rainfall and foggy climate most influences the vineyards of this region, many of which have exceptional views of the mighty Pacific. These factors cause grapes to mature and ripen more slowly which is idea for Pinot Noir. The region is approximately 750 square miles with about 7,000 acres under vine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby, with deep garnet hues through the darker heart of the wine. Color is perfectly concentrated and even, right out the the edge of the glass, where a fine ring of soft pink circles the glass. After swirling, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind tall columns of ultra-thin, wine-stained tears.

Smell – Candied cherry and spiced cherry take center stage. These gorgeous scents seem to be surrounded by layers of additional aromas. These include blackberry, nutty sweetwoods, subtle eucalyptus, dark forest floor, dried meat and black rose petals.

Feel – Softly grippy, right up front, then more round across the mid-palate. After a moment, a soft mineral dryness spreads its way around the palate. This slow-moving dryness makes its way to the lips and cheeks, where it is replaced by a crushed velvet coating.

Taste – Bold and dense, with spicy blackberry, darkest cherry, tart cranberry and young strawberry out in front. As the wine spends some time exposed to the air, it softens and additional flavors of bramble, tomato stem and the black rose from the nose emerge. Underneath these, the wine reveals soft flavors of white pepper, dark plum and flint.

Finish – A long finish, with dark black and bright red fruit notes that gradually give way to white pepper and flinty minerals. The cranberry note persists throughout.

Conclusion – This is a bold, delicious and aromatic wine that our tasting panel found to be very intriguing. The nose is very unique, offering layers of unique aromas that seem to surround the core cherry notes. On the palate, the feel is dynamic and very interesting. Flavors are also unique, delivering a spicy tartness that drives black and red fruit flavors around the palate. The finish is very long, and also very dynamic, distinctly moving from one flavor to the next – while spice and cranberry hang in throughout. This wine offers up an intriguing three-dimensional experience, with flavors and aromas that seem to swirl around each other, beyond the normal borders of sensation. If that is too esoteric, I apologize; Put more simply, this is an enthusiastic and delicious wine that pushes the boundaries of Sonoma Cost Pinot Noir by offering up uniqueness and intrigue. Pair this flavor-filled Pinot with a pulled-pork sandwich or a spicy pasta dish.

Mission Report:

Busy with bottling and roaming the vineyards, Michael Scorsone was unable to sit down with us for our customary Winemaker Interview. Be sure to read our complete interview the next time we showcase an Adobe Road wine.

Wine Spies Region Check:

The location of the Sonoma Coast region can be seen in this satellite photo.

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The approximate location of the Adobe Road tasting room, in the heart of the town of Sonoma, California, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Bloomfield Vineyards San Francisco Bay Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The Golden Gate

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a Gold Medal Contra Costa County Cabernet Sauvignon for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Bloomfield Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 San Francisco Bay Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Becky & Tom Bloomfield

Backgrounder:

Contra Costa is technically considered part of California’s Central Coast region and is located east of Oakland and north of Livermore. While not connected geographically to the coastal portions of the region, it shares much of the same climate and soil components that influence the vine growing and resulting wine. Its climate is nearly perfect for new world style winemaking. Winemaking in this region dates back to the 1800s but in 1950s and 60s the region experienced a renaissance and is now home to many of The Wine Spies Operative’s favorite wineries. Today’s selection was grown at Livermore’s Walker Vineyards.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet and purple with slightly lighter garnet edges and a dark clear core. When swirled, tightly spaced medium thick legs race down the side of the glass to the wine below.

Smell – Enticingly bold aromas of sweet, ripe and rich black-fruit including black raspberry, blackberry plum, and a touch of tart red and black currant. Add in a some toasted oak, hints of black licorice and green herbal eucalyptus and mint along with sweet spice and soft earth to round out the very approachable nose.

Feel – Rich and smooth, this dry wine is both expansive and generous on the palate with round sweet tannins and soft acidity with a touch of tanginess that hits mid-palate.

Taste – Ripe and fruit forward flavors of mostly black fruit but a touch of red fruit is also incorporated and meld with toasted oak notes. Generous black raspberry jam with sweet spice, sweet green herbs, cedar cigar box and hints of black licorice.

Finish – Medium in length and clean with tangy and ripe fruit gently fading and its round tannins slightly drying the palate inviting another sip.

Conclusion – If you are a fan of ripe, rich and generously fruit forward California Cabs, then the 2007 Bloomfield Vineyards San Francisco Bay Cabernet Sauvignon is a the perfect wine for you. Plenty of fruit on the nose and palate, a round and pleasant mouthfeel, a touch of complexity that is there but doesn’t overpower the lovely fruit and before you know it the bottle is empty. A great wine to pair with home-made sweet and tangy Bolognese ragu. Enjoy now or for the next three to five years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Rebecca Bloomfield

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Producing and making my own wine, Bloomfield Vineyards.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Staying true to the characteristics of the grape.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Experiencing wine should never be intimidating.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2004

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Becky. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Pinot Noir today. Our heartiest congratulations on winning the Chronicle award! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BECKY BLOOMFIELD: Thank you, and thanks for the opportunity to show my wine to your Operatives!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BECKY: Well it seemed that I had an interest in wine at a fairly young age, and had great exposure to experience quality wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BECKY: I’m not sure I could narrow it down that easy. I think that when you first are exposed to wines, you form an opinion pretty quickly on what you like and eventually what you seek in wine. When you grow the grapes it’s easy to direct your style of winemaking to bring out the fruit in your wine. Grapes are amazing, and having the pleasure to farm and produce wine, well is makes your philosophy on winemaking easy.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BECKY: I make wines for myself and for my customers. It’s a good thing that my tastes are theirs as well!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BECKY: We are featuring the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. This is my second vintage of Cabernet. I source these grapes from the Livermore Valley. This wine captured “The Best of California” award from the 2009 California State Fair. Over 370 Cabernets were in contention for this award, so of course I am very proud.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BECKY: As far as pairing this wine, I would say for sure a beautifully grilled rib eye steak served with saute swisschard, shallot, and Italian white beans.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Livermore Valley so special?

BECKY: The Livermore Valley has the perfect elevation for growing Cabernet. This vineyard has been in production since 2001.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BECKY: Well, I am taking it easy right now. Just finished bottling my 7th vintage of wine, and I would say be on the look out for the 2009 Cabernet!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BECKY: I think that people are much more knowledgeable about wine than they think. I let them tell me what they are “picking up” in my wines, and then expand on that with my input. I love to express my philosophy on wine and how I believe that staying true to the fruit is best.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

BECKY: Wine is a very social scene, and you should never have a bad experience with it!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the Bloomfield Vineyards Tasting Room can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Armida Winery PoiZin

Mission Codename: Spill not the morning

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Armida winery and secure a limited allocation of their coveted PoiZin Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Armida Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 PoiZin Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: Brandon Lapides

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. The Dry Creek Valley, where this Zinfandel’s grapes are are grown are characterized by their bright and balanced flavors, distinct minerality and spice are quite in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet while the wine sits still. Swirl it, and iridescent burgundy hues are viewed through the walls of the glass. The wine has a soft and springy look to it and it settles quickly. Before the wine settles, completely, skinny wine stained tears begin to form hi up on the glass wall.

Smell – Very lush and heady, with a bold rush of dark cherry, earthy bramble, strawberry and stewed fig leaping from the glass. As the wine airs out, additional aromas of spiced plum, pink peppercorn, and dark dried flower petals follow on.

Feel – Warm and soft on entry, the wine has a round feel to it, at first. Plush tannins lead to a very full-bodied feeling that seems to spread from the center-palate, outward. After a moment, the wine coats the entire palate, giving it a crush velvet feel that becomes more pronounced as a mineral-laden dryness gradually spreads throughout the palate.

Taste – Initially very dark and tart on the palate, this wine leads with black plum, blackberry and black cherry. Then, a very pronounced Bing cherry appears, bringing with it cracked pepper, weedy bramble and dark chocolate.

Finish – The wine starts off dark, with a tartness that yields to sweeter flavors as the medium-long finish is sustained by the red fruits, minerals and peppercorn spice.

Conclusion – Each vintage of this special wine seems to be better than the last. We have had to good fortune to have worked with Armida through successive vintages of this wine and we love it. For its relatively low price, this wine delivers big value. Especially with this vintage, as our spies in the field tell us that the fruit for this vintage was lower-yielding – and higher in price than past vintages. And, yet, Armida has maintained the same price, earning the wine our special QPR ALERT for outstanding value.

With bold, dark flavors, a luscious nose and an intriguing feel, this 2009 PoiZin delivers an overall wine-drinking experience that is scary good. If you love bold, flavorful, spicy, powerhouse Zin’s, this wine will make you very happy. Pair with your favorite BBQ or enjoy it all on its own.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Brandon Lapides

WINE EDUCATION: BS. Fermentation Science University of California at Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Internships: Testarossa Vineyards, RH Phillips, Brancott Cellars; Assistant Winemaker: Peachy Canyon Winery, Dutton Goldfield Winery

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Lets bring back the old school philosophies, using as little new technology as possible.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Fill up my cup, Mazeltov.” – Black Eyed Peas.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Brandon. We are thrilled to be showing your 2009 PoiZin Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BRANDON LAPIDES: My pleasure! Tell me, how were you able to secure the world exclusive on our 2009 PoiZin?! Nice move!

RED:I could tell you, Brandon, but… you know… Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BRANDON: Growing up I was mystified that when our whole family would get together, there would be many lengthy discussions about different wines. My curiosity then led to my eventual love of wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BRANDON: ’61 Latour. My grandfather had enough foresight to start buying Bordeaux wines in the late 60’s. I have been fortunate enough to have a few bottles over a span of 10 years. The wine has been the only wine that I have tasted that has ever lived up to its hype. The balance and complexities in the ’61 Latour after 40+ years of aging influenced my winemaking to try to have as much longevity in my own wines.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BRANDON: Our 2009 Poizin Zinfandel is our flagship wine at Armida Winery. We buy Zinfandel fruit from seven different unique vineyards throughout Sonoma County. Using a variety of winemaking techniques and a variety of Zinfandel from different climates and soil types, allows for a complex, but approachable wine. We aged the wine for 16 months in 80% American oak barrels and the rest of the barrels coming from France or Eastern Europe. The Poizin has classic flavors of raspberry, blueberry and a pleasurable finish of rhubarb pie and spices.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BRANDON: This wine is perfect to pair with making an Italian dinner. Open up the bottle and pour yourself a glass as you begin to prepare your ingredients, pair the next glass with mushroom raviolis in red sauce, finish the bottle alongside chocolate truffles.

RED: In your opinion, what makes Sonoma County fruit so special?

BRANDON: Sonoma County is so special for Zinfandel due to the variability of climate, soil and topography. We truly have the whole “spice box” within one county. Gorgeous fruit flavors from the Dry Creek Valley, vivid acidity from the Russian River Valley, structure and minerality from Chalk Hill and silky tannins from the Sonoma Valley.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BRANDON: We are busy topping our wines and making sure that our wines are behaving properly as they continue to age. Maintenance and cleaning of our tanks and equipment is also taking up our time. We are also checking on all of our vineyards to make sure that the crop is progressing well.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BRANDON: I always recommend that consumers accompany our wines with food. Our wines pair well with a variety of foods and should be consumed with family and friends.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

BRANDON: I would love to invite any of your readers to come visit our vineyards, winery and tasting room right outside of Healdsburg. We have a beautiful patio with an incredible view overlooking our vineyards and manicured gardens. There is also a bocce ball court to test your skills after a glass of wine.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Armida Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Arcadian Winery Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Oh, Fiddlestix!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate the award-winning Santa Barbara County Arcadian Winery, a winery that has always kept its prized wines close. Get special access to Arcadian’s best wines, and select a high-scoring single vineyard Pinot Noir for our deserving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Arcadian Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir – Sta. Rita Hills

Winemaker: Joseph Davis

Backgrounder: The Wine Spies arre always impressed by Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills, a Santa Barbara County growing region that has been producing some of the finest Pinot Noir south of Sonoma and Napa counties. Today’s award-winning wine hails from a producer that allows very few wine merchants access to their prized wines. Today, we are proud to be the only online wine merchant to feature their single vineyard Fiddlestix 2005 Pinot Noir.

California’s Central Coast region, and specifically Santa Barbara have become one of the state’s premier regions for Pinot Noir. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in Pinot of exceptional purity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful dark ruby hues, with a with a deeper garnet heart. Color is concentrated from core to edge. When swirled, tall and skinny legs form high up on the glass. After these descend to the surface, a second set of legs appears, mid-way up.

Smell – Heady and bold, with candied cherry, fresh strawberries and black cherry out in front. These are followed by dried dark flowers, earthy blackberry and bramble. As the wine opens up, aromas soften and soft Clementine peel, cedar and a hint of anise join in.

Feel – Velvet smooth across the entry, the wine quickly expands on the palate, becoming warm and full-bodied. A moment after it settles, fine-grained tannins add a velour texture. After the wine crosses the palate, a mineral-rich, flinty dryness gradually encroaches.

Taste – Beautifully balanced, with fruit and earthen character in perfect proportion. Dark strawberry and black cherry lead to candied red cherry and tart cranberry. These bright fruits are tempered against bramble, flint, dried earth, subtle dried leaves and sweetwoods. At the end, soft dried meats make an intriguing experience.

Finish – Long and flavorful, with red fruit leading to darker fruits – which eventually yield to earthen flavors of dark minerals, earth and a hint of black pepper.

Conclusion – Today’s Pinot Noir, from our new friends at Arcadian, is a gorgeous, delicious, bright and bold treat. We are honored that Arcadian has given us special access to their cellars, and we are very happy to have selected their stunning 2005 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir as our featured wine of the day. With windswept evening fog and hot days, the climate of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA is particularly well suited to Pinot Noir and today’s wine really communicates the terroir of the region – and the Fiddlestix Vineyard. With bold, bright flavors and a deep nose, this is a delicious wine to enjoy all on its own. However, with its bright acidity and complex flavors, we recommend pairing it with something bold and spicy. We enjoyed our sample bottle with homemade gourmet Not-so-sloppy Joes. The experience was heavenly. And so very tasty!

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Joe Davis

WINE EDUCATION: course study at UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Began my career at Morgan Winery in 1984 and remained for 10 years as winemaker. I spent one year as General Manager at Bernardus Winery and then began Arcadian in 1996

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Challenging the style of the new world

WINEMAKER QUOTE: It’s always about elegance and class with respect to Pinot Noir. It is in my soul and in my glass.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: (DATE) 1998

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Joe. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JOE DAVIS: I am equally excited to be working with the Wine Spies to introduce our wines to a whole new segment of wine lovers who may have not had the opportunity to taste Arcadian Fiddlestix Pinot Noir. Especially from such a great vintage!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JOE: Without a doubt and the wine still resonates in my mind even today. As a young undergraduate I worked in a wine shop. While there a very good customer was kind enough to present me with a gift for graduation. I convinced him that we should share it with the staff that very night and of course we opened the bottle. To say it was a profound experience doesn’t really begin to express the impact that it has made on my life. I have had it on only one other occasion and again it was sublime. Subsequently, it was presented to me as a gift from the family that produced it while I was an acting guest of honor for the Magic Moments charity in Birmingham AL This bottle remains in Atlanta GA where it is in the artist Thomas Arvid’s cellar waiting to be painted alongside a bottle of Arcadian.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JOE: Again this is an easy answer for me – Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac in the village of Morey St. Denis Burgundy France. It was his 1978 Dujac Clos de la Roche that captured my soul. And it is this wine that has become the “elusive chalice” that I have been searching for in my own wines.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JOE: This is an excellent question that can be easily answered but requires some explanation: When I am in the cellar it is my palate and mine alone that must be the deciding factor in preparing the final composition. I must make wine that I believe in and am most passionate about. So it must first be for myself and then for those who share my convictions of what great wine should be. The detail of what that can be requires a much greater space for discussion. I do believe however, that the wine should come from a place and consistently reflect that place. That despite many of the decisions that I must make in the process of making wine, the overriding factor should always be the place. There should be a consistent aromatic and flavor profile that can be recognized by many as coming from that place.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JOE: I love this wine so much! 2005 may be the greatest vintage on the Central Coast in the last 28 years. It certainly is my favorite and the 2005 Fiddlestix reflects the vintage so beautifully. It is what I call a classic vintage that is about elegance and breed and straight lines. A wine that will live a long life and with each passing year prove why with some wines the sum is greater than its parts; so often we drink our wines so young and we do not allow them to evolve. We drink the parts and miss out on the nuance that can be so alluring with time. That’s not to say that this wine can be drunk today it has so much to offer right now but will certainly reward time in the cellar. Of all the sites that I work with Fiddlestix perhaps reminds me the most of what I taste when I am drinking Burgundy. There is minerality to this wine that you don’t often see here in California. There is beautiful fruit here as well but the complexity of the fruit and mineral combination is what can confuse tasters into not recognizing its California roots.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JOE: Fiddlestix does not produce a big opulent style so while it has femininity it also has muscle that is more sinewy than massive. The structure is that or a female gymnast. With that in mind it can stand up to bolder richer food. I love to eat this with a compote of wild mushrooms, a mélange if you will reduced down until it is dense and rich and powerful in flavor. Stir some risotto and ladle this compote over the risotto and you will at once feel as if you have been transported to the countryside.

For those of you who are protein lovers, roasting a leg of lamb will also provide the richness I am looking for to match this wine.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Sta. Rita Hills AVA- and the Fiddlestix Vineyard – so special?

JOE: There is just not enough time to begin to explain all of the things that make the Santa Rita Hills so very special. Just the topography alone would be explanation enough. Add into that the fact that it is a relatively new growing region that has immensely benefited from the many advancements we have made in viticulture these last 15 years. The soils have decomposed in place and are rich in calcium, producing very small berries that are very intense in color and flavor. The cool prevailing marine winds allow for one of the longest fruit hang times for Pinot Noir that we know of. Easily two to three weeks longer than the north coast sites.

Fiddlestix sits right between the famed Sanford and Benedict Vineyard and Sea Smoke Vineyard. From the very beginning it produced very special fruit. As it continues to mature the quality grows and we see so many great things there,

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JOE: It is quiet in the cellar so my time is spent focused on sales and watching my son play baseball with his pinto all star team. Soon my daughter will be performing in the local theatre the play Crazy For You and I can’t wait to see her on stage.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JOE: With the understanding that they were bottled with very little dissolved oxygen to aide in their slow development in the cellar. This means that they will require some decanting to allow them to open up. I want my wines to stimulate the mind of the consumer and that means they will need to focus and give some thought to it. The time they spend listening to and thinking about this wine will reward them with such pleasure.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JOE: I just want to say thank you to all of you who decide to bring this wine into your home. I am honored that you have invited us to be part of your meal hopefully shared with family or close friends. May this deliver far more than you paid and reward you in a way the you had hoped and deserved.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fiddlestix Vineyard* in Santa Barbara County’s Sta. Rita Hills can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 von Strasser Winery Post Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Postgraduate

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to von Strasser to procure their Post Vineyard Cabernet, von Strasser’s first-ever 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Diamond District Cabernet Sauvignon that embodies the best that the unique region has to offer

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: von Strasser Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Post Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Diamond Mountain District Estate

Winemaker: Rudy von Strasser

Backgrounder: Best known for its exceptional red wines, von Strasser Winery sits stop Napa Valley’s high-elevation Diamond Mountain. Until the release of today’s remarkable wine, von Strasser has never produced a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine. This wine is drinking beautifully now, but has brilliant aging potential.

The Diamond District AVA (American Viticultural Area) at the northern tip of the Napa Valley, is part of the Mayacamas Mountains. The higher elevation of the region sees more direct sunlight and less cooling that the rest of the valley, leading to the production of some of the most concentrated and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon in the entire Napa Valley.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – This wine shows off hues of dark red cherry juice and a pure magenta core that seems iridescent when the wine is swirled. The wine is perfectly clear, even through its darkening middle. Color is concentrated and even, from center to edge. After swirling, a wine-stained waterfall of skinny legs seems to pour from high up on the inside of the glass.

Smell – Bold intensity, with sweet red cherry, black cherry and blackberry. These gradually yield to dark violets, soft oak, smoked meats, cranberry and dusky bramble. As the wine opens up, dark chocolate, mocha and salt-licorice appears.

Feel – A voluptuous, round, silky entry turns softly grippy as fine-grained tannins add a slowly-spreading dryness. Bright and balanced, the wine delivers acids and a hint of flint at the end, making the mouth water.

Taste – Bold and concentrated, this wine packs in lush flavors of darkest black cherry, plum, earthen blackberry, bramble, soft cedar and flint. Decant for 30 minutes or more and you’ll discover additional flavors of violet, subtle cocoa powder and a hint of toasty, vanilla oak.

Finish – Ultra-long, with flavors that are guided through to the end by the wines structure and easy acidity. Sweet flavors yield to slightly tart as the palate becomes slightly dry. This dynamic effect make your mouth water, urging you to take another generous sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 von Strasser Winery Post Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is a lush and elegant wine that delivers big flavors and big aromatics – without placing any stress on the palate. Some Napa Cabernet Sauvignon can tend to overwhelm the palate, or a fine meal, but this is a wine that one could enjoy several glasses of, without your mouth feeling fatigued. Made from only from Cabernet Sauvignon, today’s wine marks the first release of a 100% Cab Sauv from von Strasser. We have to admit, Rudy von Strasser and his crew have crafted a superb gem of a wine in this Post Vineyard Estate Cabernet. Pair with your favorite beef dish or even barbecued chicken (hey, why not!), or sip it all on its own. Drinking beautifully now, be sure to cellar a few bottles for up to 10 more years.

Mission Report:

We were unable to secure an interview with Rudy von Strasser, today. What follows is a recap from a previous mission to von Strasser Winery:

While my life is almost completely consumed with wine, I do have other interests. One of them is treasure hunting.

I am constantly receiving intel for my assets around the wine industry – and sometimes that intel has noting to do with wine.

Recently, I received a report that the world famous Diamond District, in the norther tip of the Napa Valley, was so named because a cache of stolen diamonds was buried high up in the Mayacams mountains, among some of the fines Cabernet grapes known to humankind.

This report included clues to the specific whereabouts of the diamonds, valued at an estimated $5 million. My source provided a map, general coordinates and a few old photographs from the 1920’s. I agreed to a 50/50 split and set of to Napa.

Once up in the Mayacamas, a gorgeous vine-covered region at the northern tip of the Napa Valley. Juggling the old photos and my portable GPS, I managed to make my way what was almost certainly the right vicinity.

[beep.boop.beep beep.boop.beep]

An open wine glass? Up here? My Wine Spies PDA is never wrong, and that alert was difficult to believe. Utilizing the PDA’s direction finder, I made my way toward the wine. I made my way down a vineyard row, turned a corner – and witnessed a remarkable sight: A small table with a white tablecloth with a single glass of wine atop it!

I approached the table and saw that its surface was strewn with… with… loose diamonds! My heart raced. Ignoring the note card that sat next to the wine glass, I grabbed a diamond and examined it with my jewelers loop. My heart sank. These were no diamonds. Instead, just fakes.

I stood there for a moment, stunned. Eventually, I snapped out of it and reached for the card. It read, “Agent Red. My apologies for the subterfuge. To make it up to you, I have arranged a special allocation of a very special wine for you. Sincerely, [CENSORED] – von Strasser Winery.”

This note was significant and I felt instantly better. I had been trying to infiltrate the von Strasser Winery for months. Their wines, particularly their Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, is the stuff of legend.

I grabbed up the glass, inhaled deeply, and took a sip. Heavenly.

Then, my phone rang.

“Agent Red. [REDACTED] here, from von Strasser….”

The rest is obvious, dear Operative, for today you have a unique opportunity to sample one of the best Cabs from one of the best regions – by one of Napa Valley’s best wineries.

Diamonds? Who needs diamonds, when you have a wine this good?

Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The gorgeous location of the steeply sloping von Strasser vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Domaine Christian Belleville ‘Monthelon’ Mercurey AOC

Mission Codename: La Vallée Dorée

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit the commune of Mercurey and retrieve a delicious red Burgundy

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Christian Belleville

Wine Subject: 2009 ‘Monthelon’ Mercurey AOC

Backgrounder: The village commune of Mercurey, located in the heart of the Cote Chalonnaise is one of the best loved appellations in the region. Originally designated in 1923, the region is protected from the wines in what is referred to locally as the Golden Valley.

The region is well known for its unique soil composition of white limey marl and calcic limestone, Jurassic gravel and rock and red clay. Also the vines grown in Mercurey are grown at an elevation of about 1000 feet above mean sea level. The village boasts 32 Premier Crus and its red wines are known for crisp fruit driven wines with excellent minerality.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dense ruby red with a dark but clear core that shows brighter ruby streaks when held to the light. Along the edges, the color remains ruby and then fades just slightly to pinkish ruby. When swirled, this springy wine leaves widely spaced thin legs that slowly descend to the wine below.

Smell – Aromatic and bright in intensity with aromas of bright juicy red fruit including red cherry, raspberry and plum layered over notes of both sweet and savory spice, savory green herbs and hints of soft undergrowth notes. This wine’s nose evolves greatly from the moment you open the bottle to the time you take your last sip.

Feel – This medium-bodied wine is dry and smooth in the initial attack. Finely textured tannins and vibrant acidity take hold and linger into the finish. Also present is a distinct minerality that add to the structure and also flavors the palate.

Taste – Ripe red cherry as well as other red fruits including ripe red plum, raspberry, tart red currant meld with savory herbal and spice flavors. A reserved dose of earthy undergrowth emerges along with mineral and stone notes.

Finish – Medium in length with lingering red fruits gently fading and leaving this wine’s savory herbal, spice and minerality behind for several minutes.

Conclusion – The 2009 Domaine Christian Belleville ‘Monthelon’ Mercurey AOC is
distinctly Burgundian with its Terroir driven minerality framing the restrained red fruit flavors. Bigger on the nose, and balanced in its mouth-feel, this wine will pair well with herb encrusted or infused cheeses or lighter meats. Drink now or for up to three to five years.

Mission Report:

Agent White has been reported as A.W.O.L. and it is believed he is stocking the wine cellar and hoarding bison steaks for the impending Apocalypse.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Mercurey commune south of Beaune and northwest of Chalon-sur-Saone can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Random Ridge Cabernet Franc

Mission Codename: True Religion

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Random Ridge Winery, high atop Mt. Veeder, in California’s Napa Valley. Raid their wine cave and be the first to procure their astounding 2007 Cabernet Franc.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Random Ridge

Wine Subject: 2007 Cabernet Franc

Winemaker: Bill Hawley

Backgrounder:

Mt. Veeder, located on the eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range has a climate that is cooler than the valley floor below. This climate and the more difficult (less fertile) volcanic mountain soil influence the flavors of the wines from this region. Best known for Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder vineyards produce grapes of exceptional character and intensity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Reminiscent of a true Bordeaux, this wine shows off darkest garnet hues, with a clear core that turns darker plum. When swirled, the wine appears soft and viscous. When the wine settles, wine-stained tears form high up on the glass wall. They start off wide, but quickly thin to a fine line as they streak to the wine below.

Smell – Perfumy, bold and lush, all at once, with big black cherry, Bing cherry, cranberry and violets. There is also a delightful weediness to the wine, a great smell that reminds us of Manzanita and sage. Make note, though, these are not the vegital smells that can sometimes plague Cabernet Franc. Instead, they contribute something wonderful. As the wine opens up, intriguing aromas begin to emerge. Star anise, caramel, hot fudge and subtle pencil shavings all make surprise appearances.

Feel – Softly round on the initial attack, then plush across the mid-palate, where the wine coats the tongue. Bright acidity and plush, integrated tannins give the wine a dynamic feel. After a moment, the palate dries slightly, leaving you with a flavor-filled, crushed velvet feel that lingers – as flavors take forever to tail off.

Taste – Dense, lush and concentrated, with extracted flavors of cherry, black plum, cranberry, and dark smoked blackberry. As the wine opens up, additional flavors are revealed, leading with vanilla and caramel (both tasted at the rear palate), soft graphite and a dry river rock minerality. There may not be many flavors in this wine, but the flavors that are there are bold and rich.

Finish – This wine has a seemingly endless finish. Literally 30 or 40 seconds after you sip this wine, the flavors are still hanging in there, tailing off very slowly. As the flavors dwindle, the unique mineral quality seems to ease the transition from bold flavor to, simply, less flavor. We never really took enough time, between sips, to see if the flavors ever really faded completely.

Overall – There is no hyperbole here when I say this this is an amazing, fantastic, remarkable, delicious wine. I have always really loved all of Bill Hawley’s Random Ridge wines, but this one is, by far, the best that I have tasted. Aromatics are perfumy and very full, and the concentrated flavors of the wine are just plain delicious. The feel starts off soft and then turns dynamic, as plush tannins work their magic, introducing a spreading dryness and ends with a distinctive minerality. The finish is the longest I can remember on any wine. In fact, nobody on our review panel was able to find an end to the flavors. Perhaps this is because none of us were able to stop sipping this fantastic wine. Mount Veeder and Bill’s careful growing has yielded some incredible fruit – that he has skillfully crafted into some amazing wine. Only four barrels of this wine were produced. Please don’t miss out.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Bill Hawley

WINE EDUCATION: Bill graduated with honors with a degree in poetry from Sonoma State College in 1974. His senior project focused on the influence of Zen Buddhism on the poetry of the San Francisco renaissance and the Beats. He met Phil Coturri studying poetry at college and was inspired by him and his brother Tony in the cult of winemaking and grapegrowing. He has taken courses in winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis extension, Napa College, and Santa Rosa Junior College. He has traveled to many wine regions to study winemaking and surfing, including France (Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone, Languedoc, Champagne), Spain (Rioja), Portugal, Madeira, Chile, Baja Mexico, New Zealand, and Australia (Margaret River).

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Bill lived and worked at BR Cohn Vineyards in 1975, spending a full season on the Cohn ranch in the heart of the Sonoma Valley. He worked at Kenwood Winery in 1977 and In 1978 helped build a winery in Sonoma for Walter Benson that later became Haywood and is now Ravenswood. He then worked as vineyard manager for Chalone at Carmenet Vineyards from 1982-1988, and at the same time planted the first vines at Random Ridge.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Wine is made in the vineyard.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Grow good grapes and get out of the way.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1988

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Bill. We are thrilled to be showing your Cabernet Franc today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BILL: It’s great to go on another mission with you, Agent Red!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BILL: In grapegrowing, Joe Miami, the longtime manager at Louis Martini’s Monte Rosso. In winemaking, I was very intrigued by Martin Ray at Mt. Eden and Andre Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu. Later, Dick Graff from Chalone opened my eyes wide to the pleasure of food and wine combinations.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BILL: I make wines that suit my palate. I am not making wines for review; I am making wine for myself, my family, and my friends and that I hope reach out to kindred souls who appreciate a rich man’s wine at a poor man’s price.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BILL: It is a true elixir from a great vintage. It is a wine that is honest and generous in flavor, that can be enjoyed now but will also reward further cellaring.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BILL: I like it paired with meats grilled over a wood fire of Manzanita or seasoned oak barrel staves. Our local Glen Ellen restaurant, Saffron, has a rack of lamb with potato risotto that is also a perfect accompaniment. This wine also works well with rustic crusty bread – I love bread from Della Fattoria in Petaluma and the Downtown Bakery and Creamery in Healdsburg – and local goat cheese.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Mr. Veeder appellation so special?

BILL: It’s the elevation, inclination, climate, rocks, and volcanic soil. What’s not often talked about with grapegrowing in the mountains is that we are above the fog, and the intensity of the sunlight influences the flavors and colors of the grapes. Growing grapes up here takes a certain maverick spirit and tenacity—this is labor-intensive viticulture. We have a long growing season and the vines struggle to survive. All farming up here is a hand job.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BILL: In the vineyard, we are hoeing, irrigating, shoot thinning, and dropping clusters that are green and behind in ripening. And preparing for harvest!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BILL: With a meal or without, in crystal or a mason jar, but definitely with friends and by candlelight.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mt. Veeder Appellation in Napa can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Comartin Cellars Santa Barbara Grenache

Mission Codename: The Cali-Rhone Nexus

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Respond to operative requests and acquire a very limited production California Grenache.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Comartin Cellars

Wine Subject: 2008 Santa Barbara Grenache

Winemaker: Adam Comartin

Backgrounder:

Grenache, most famous in France’s southern Rhone is the primary grape of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CDP). That being said, most CDPs are an encépagement (blend) of many grapes including Syrah, Mourvedre and up to 10 other grapes. Occasionally, when a particular fruit is so good, you’ll find a 100% varietal CDP. Perhaps the most famous of these 100% CDPs is Chateau Rayas (also known for exceptional white CDPs). So it was with great anticipation that we tasted Adam Comartin’s 100% Grenache, especially knowing that one of his winemaking inspirations are the superb wines of France’s Rhone Valley.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Bright and clear ruby red with slightly more pale ruby along the edges. When swirled, this springy wine has slow medium legs of random speeds cling to the side of the glass

Smell – Medium in intensity with exotic and sweet spice notes that mingle with bright ripe red fruit including red cherry, raspberry and strawberry notes. A touch of vanilla toasted oak, fresh and smokey green herbs and floral violets also emerge.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this medium-to-full bodied wine has firm but finely textured tannins that blend with its vibrant tart-tangy acidity and a touch of mouth drying minerals.

Taste – Easy and pleasant with both ripe and tart red cherry, raspberry and strawberry are framed by sweet spice and vanilla toasted oak. Subtle herbal notes, the floral violets from the nose and light mineral notes linger as the fruit fades.

Finish – Medium in length and clean with the ripe and tart red fruit fading first leaving behind a touch of creamy vanilla and then spice and mouth drying minerals that invite another sip.

Conclusion – If you are a fan of Grenache, then the 2008 Comartin Cellars Santa Barbara Grenache is a s fresh, easy and pleasant wine that is sure to delight. Inviting fresh red fruit on both the nose and palate and a mouthfeel that is smooth but not without structure. We paired this wine with rosemary and herbes de Provance seasoned grilled pork chops and pomme frites. Enjoy this wine tonight or cellar for the next three to five years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Adam Comartin

WINE EDUCATION: University California, Davis Viticulture & Enology B.S.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Owner/Winemaker at Comartin Cellars

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Let the wine be who it is

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Don’t screw it up”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2007

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Adam. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Grenache Santa Barbara today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ADAM COMARTIN: No problem. Thanks for having me.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ADAM: Yes. I was a youngster backpacking and traveling through Italy. I had little wine knowledge, but attempted to order a bottle of wine at a restaurant. $25 Barolo from Piedmont. I figured I’d splurge, why not? The waiter came back with not a bottle but a single GLASS of wine….I had mistakenly ordered a $25 glass of Barolo! Are you kidding me? I thought I had been bamboozled, but after smelling and tasting that wine I was blown away! I savored it, examined it, and thought to myself “why is this so good?” That is all it took to get hooked!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ADAM: I believe every winemaker has their own individual style and unique impression, but all winemakers must learn what techniques or terrior will aid them in achieving their goals. I have learned a great deal from Bill Brosseau at Testarossa Winery, where I am the Asst. Winemaker. Bill influenced me early on by teaching me how to create different styles in the vineyard and in the winery. I guess my style of creating elegant, balanced Grenache came from many years of making great Central Coast Pinot Noir at Testarossa.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ADAM: I make wine for people who like unique wines. People that love to learn from the wines and food they enjoy. Our winery only produces 500 cases, so we focus on making artisan wines which are very small in production.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

ADAM: The 2007 Santa Barbara County Grenache is 100% Grenache sourced from 3 vineyards: Fess Parker’s Camp Four vineyard, Tierra Alta vineyard and Watch Hill vineyard. The 3 different vineyard sites are combined to create a balanced, well-rounded Grenache. In order to preserve the delicate fruit of Grenache, the wine was aged in only 1-2 year old french oak barrels for 16 months. The wine is absolutely delicious! Only 100 cases produced.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ADAM: There is no question pairing lamb with this wine is the way to go. Barbequed Lamb Kabobs or roasted rack of lamb with judicious herbs de Provence. Maybe with some roasted red bell-peppers and onions. Forget about it……

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Santa Ynez Valley so special?

ADAM: Santa Barbara County and specifically Santa Ynez valley is a perfect climate for Grenache because there are plenty of long warm days to ripen Grenache, which needs this significant warmth on the vine to fully mature. But most importantly, the region has cold nights due to the proximity to the ocean and the fact that there is no mountain range between the valley and the ocean. This allows cold ocean air to cool the vines, which promotes balanced ripening and good acid retention in the berries.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ADAM: Blending and bottling. The next few months we will be evaluating the 2009 wines, blending and selecting barrels for the appropriate wines. We will be bottling the 2009 Camp Four Vineyard Grenache next month.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

ADAM: Brace yourself…then prepare to be blown away by a wine that is unlike any other you have experienced.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

ADAM: Thank you to The Wine Spies for spying on us! And thank you to all the readers for getting to know Comartin Cellars.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Santa Ynez Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.