2004 Astrale e Terra Estate Syrah

Mission Codename: In the Balance

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Astrale e Terra’s 2003 Syrah was a hit with our Operatives. Return to the winery, and secure an allocation of their 2004 Syrah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Astrale e Terra

Wine Subject: 2004 Atlas Peak Syrah – Napa Valley

Winemaker: Scott Harvey

Backgrounder: Our Operatives love a great Syrah, and they snap them up in record numbers, bucking the industry trends which suggest that Syrah sales are slightly declining. Our Operatives has proven that they are ahead of the curve in so many ways, especially when it comes to purchasing a great wine. Today, Agent Red visits with Astral e Terra, whose Atlas Peak Syrah is a delicious and bodacious interpretation of the noble varietal. As an added bonus to today’s great selection, we are happy to report that our old friend, Scott Harvey is the winemaker!

Varietal Backgrounder: The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a big and bold delight with richly dark flavors, deep aromatics and a plush mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest ruby hued, with a deeper and darker (but still clear) core. The color is concentrated and even, right out to the edge of the glass. Legs start high up on the glass and then go ultra-thin before rushing to the surface.

Smell – Warm and massively fragrant, with big blackberry, cherry candy, raspberry, black cherry and ripe strawberry. As the wine opens up, aromas of softly toasted oak, dried fall leaves, milk chocolate and black pepper emerge, really balancing out the fruit-forward nose.

Feel – Soft and supple on entry, then the wine gently coats the entire palate. Plush tannins bring out a crushed velvet feel as the wine slowly dries the palate.

Taste – Dark fruit and earthen flavors combine, delivering bold blackberry, black cherry, dark raspberry, plum and tart dried cranberry. These meld easily with toasty oak, dried leaves, crushed dried flower petals, dusty bramble and soft spice. Black pepper and slate complete the experience – at the tail end.

Finish – Ultra-long, with dark fruit outlasting the red fruit flavors. As the palate dries, flavor remains, taking a long time to tail off. After a long time, bramble, black pepper and slate offer a soft and mouthwatering ending.

Conclusion – Umm, WOW! I went crazy for the 2003, but this 2004 Atlas Peak Syrah from Astrale e Terra is stupendous. This is a beautifully balanced wine. Flavors balance red against black, earth against fruit, spice against mineral; not in opposition, though. Aromatics follow suit. The feel is both soft and supple, with just the right amount of grip and spice. Balanced acidity makes this wine food friendly, which is a surprise for such a flavorful Syrah. I don’t mean to sound overly blustery about this wine, but I can’t help myself. Once again, Astrale E Terra and winemaker, Scott Harvey, blow us away!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Scott Harvey

DATE OF BIRTH: 3-24-54

PLACE OF BIRTH: Bamberg, Germany

WINE EDUCATION: 1975, I apprenticed at K. Fitz-Ritter Winery while attending the Weinbau Schule in Neustadt, Germany. Returned to Amador County to apprentice from Cary Gott at Montevina winery.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Montevina, In 1978, at the age of twenty-three, Scott took over as Head Winemaker for Story Winery

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Being European trained, I make wines to go with food—good acidity and low pH. The is considered old world style of winemaking.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Barbera

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Named 1 of the top 10 Winemakers in CA by Dan Berger

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: 2003 Scott Harvey Reserve Barbera being selected as 3rd best Barbera in the world outside of Italy.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “This wine will get you laid” (This is Scott’s famous quote but I’m not sure you’ll want to use it”)

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Scott. We are thrilled to be showing the wine you made for Astrale e Terra today. You know that we have already shown your wines before – and that we are already devoted fans! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SCOTT: Thank you, Red! Thanks for selecting another one of my wines for your Operatives

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SCOTT: When I was sent to Germany as an AFS exchange student in high school, I was sent to a winemaking region of Germany. On my first day there, my “German family” handed me a glass of wine. I looked out the window at the vineyards below, got my German dictionary out and said, “does this wine come from those grapes?” They said “yes, do you want to see where it’s made?” ….and the rest is history.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

SCOTT: I got my basic training in Germany but my recent winemaking style I attribute to my mentor, Dr. Richard Peterson.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

SCOTT: Old world style. Wines that are drunk with food.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SCOTT: Dr. Richard Peterson

RED: How long have you been making wine?

SCOTT: 37 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

SCOTT: Myself, my wife, and our consumers

RED: Tell me, what makes Atlas Peak so special?

SCOTT: Only 2% of the world has a Mediterranean climate like Napa Valley with the warm days and cool nights along with its unique soils and geography.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

SCOTT: You need to be a very clean and neat person. 90% of winemaking is janitorial.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SCOTT: Bottling the wines in the barrels. Getting ready for the 2009 harvest.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

SCOTT: It’s a full bodied Napa Valley Syrah from one of the best appellations in Napa Valley for Syrah—Atlas Peak.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SCOTT: Duck breast.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

SCOTT: I like to iron my own shirts.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

SCOTT: Chianti

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

SCOTT: People drink experiences. Have fun with the wine.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

SCOTT: Whatever my wife wants to drink.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

SCOTT: Question: Do you plan to make any new wines? Answer: I’d love to make a Gewurtztraminer but my wife won’t let me.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work!

SCOTT: Thanks, again, Agent Red. Scott Harvey, over and out!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Atlas Peak region can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Bolen Family Estates Estate Merlot

Mission Codename: The Legacy

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Bolen Family Estates, a Napa Valley gem that produces only Merlot. secure their elegant Beckstoffer-grown Merlot for our exacting Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Bolen Family Estates

Wine Subject: 2007 Merlot, Napa Valley

Winemaker: Tom Rinaldi

Backgrounder: The fine fruit for today’s superb Merlot comes from the Beckstoffer Orchard Avenue Vineyard, in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley AVA. The vineyard was purchased in 1997 and planted exclusively to Merlot. Only a select few wineries are able to secure fruit from this vineyard, and we have it on good authority that Eric Bolen was able to get his hands of the finest rows.

Bolen Family Winery produces only Merlot – and they do it extremely well. With only 250 cases produced, their current vintage is a limited-availability wine that is difficult to purchase in quantities of more than a few bottles. Today only, we are pleased to have gotten our hands on an ample, but still somewhat limited, allocation – with no maximum bottle limits!

To true wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, outpacing most other varietals. Merlot is sincere, food-fabulous wine for serious wine drinkers. If you think that Merlot is not for you, forget everything that you think you know about Merlot and embrace this stellar example.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby, dense with a darker core. The wine is clear and dark at its heart. Concentrated color is maintained out to a medium-width band of cherry red at the edge of the glass. When swirled, chubby, wine-stained tears glide slowly down the glass.

Smell – Deep and lush, with ripe fruit and earthen spice that leap from the glass. This is a wine that you can smell long before you lift it to your nose. Blackberry, earthy black cherry, red currant, violets and plum are layered atop soft brown spice, softly toasted oak, soft cedar and a hint of subtle white mushroom.

Feel – Soft and slightly round on the attack, the wine quickly coats the entire palate. Fine tannins and a bright acidity support the delicious fruits long into a lingering finish.

Taste – Ripe and flavorful, this wine delivers a rush of concentrated black cherry juice, overripe blackberry, stewed black plum ad soft spice. As the wine settles on the palate, it reveals flavors of smoky red cherry, black tea, cigar box, leather and a hint of burnt sugar.

Finish – Long and very flavorful, with black fruit giving way to red fruit, spice, tea, and soft sweet wood. As flavors dwindle, the palate dries and the lips pucker, reminding you to take another elegant sip.

Conclusion – Elegant, deep and filled with flavor, this 2007 Bolen Family Estates Merlot is an aromatic delight. This wine reveals the magical pairing that can someties occur when great fruit meets a world-class winemaker. In the case of today’s wine, magic was indeed made. And, speaking of pairing, this Merlot has plenty of structure, but it is also very food friendly. With its bright acidity, this wine is very food-friendly. Our tasting panel paired ours with fresh tortellini with a homemade marinara sauce and spicy Italian sausages. Between bites, each sip of the wine provided a refreshing cleanse of the palate, with the delicious fruit holding its own against the spicy flavors of the meal. Enjoy this wine now, but be sure to cellar a few bottles for the next 5 to 7 years.

Mission Report:

With bottling underway, we were unable to secure an interview with Bolen’s winemaker. Be sure to subscribe to our Daily Dispatch, above, so that we can keep you informed of our next Bolen sale.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Beckstoffer Orchard Avenue Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Wine Guerrilla Old Vine Zinfandel

Mission Codename: ¡Viva la Revolución!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of the Wine Guerrilla’s Clopton Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel, for our Zin-loving operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Wine Guerrilla

Wine Subject: 2009 Clopton Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel – Russian River Valley

Winemaker:

Backgrounder: Zinfandel is often aptly named California’s grape. Its history and lore and the wines that result are often the makings of legend. In this case, Starry Night’s winemaker selected the best old-vine grapes from a number of the Russian River’s best vineyards, many of which have been planted for nearly a century. The Russian River Valley is ideally suited for growing red grape varietals. Its early morning fog and coastal breezes result in a cooler climate than the neighboring wine growing regions. At 100+ years, today’s wine springs forth from some of oldest noted vines in the region.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – From its dark cherry core, the wine lightens slightly toward the edges, where a thin band of lighter magenta rings the glass. When swirled, the wine shows springy surface that settles quickly, leaving behind crooked, wine-stained legs

Smell – Perfumed and lush, with crush violets, black plum, black cherry, blueberry and blackberry. These deep fruit aromatics mingle with old vine black pepper, and earthen bramble. After some hearty swirling, aromas of toasty oak, soft cedar and brown spice join in.

Feel – Cool and fast on the initial attack. Then, the wine settles on the mid-palate, where it adds a soft and slightly grippy dryness that spreads all around the mouth. Very fine tannins and a bright acidity both support the old vine flavors of the wine, while allowing the fruit to really shine through.

Taste – Delicious and balanced, with black and red fruit in equal proportion. Big black cherry, juicy blackberry, tart black plum skin, stewed plum and blueberry mix with red cherry, raspberry, cassis and tart red cherry. On the tail end, dusty bramble, dried mushroom, brown spice and softly toasted oak add old vine character.

Finish – Long and very flavorful, with bold dark fruit that gradually yields to bright cherry, earth and bramble. At the very end, soft spice and black pepper punctuate the delicious flavors of the wine.

Conclusion – A juicy and delicious wine with great of red and black fruit, balanced against the earthy character of a traditional Old Vine Zinfandel. Great aromatics had our tasting panel swirling and sniffing, long before sipping. When we did finally taste the wine, there were smiles all around. With juicy and jammy flavors, earthiness and soft spice, this is a wine that is as great a solo-sipper as it is paired with your favorite BBQ or bold pasta dish. Be sure to join the revolution, dear Operative. This is one rebellion we Wine Spies can really get behind!

Mission Report:

We were unable to secure an interview with Bruce Patch, today. Please be sure to subscribe to our Daily Distatch (at the top of this page), so that we can inform you of the next time we feature another fantastic Wine Guerrilla wine.

2007 Ceja Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Familia

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Ceja Vineyards and secure an allocation of their exceptional 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir, an Operative favorite

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ceja Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Armando Ceja

Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir which thrives here. Ceja Vineyards is a Wine Spies favorite and we are proud to bring you another successive vintage of their wonderful Carneros Pinot. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Cherry red hues with perfect clarity through the darkening core. Color is dense and concentrated, all the way out to the fine pink edge that rings the glass. On swirling, medium-width, wine-stained tears begin high on the glass and meander slowly downward.

Smell – This wine leads with a earthy dark cherry note. This gives way to aromatic young strawberry, sweet wood, dried orange peel, tomato stem, India black tea, and a hint of gunpowder. After some swirling and sipping, additional aromas of red plum and soft spices emerge.

Feel – Cool and light on the attack, with a bright acidity. The wine becomes softly grippy on the mid-palate as fine tannins introduce a slowly spreading dryness. This soft dryness begins at the edges of the palate and spreads inward, eventually drying the lips and cheeks.

Taste – Earthy cherry, young strawberry, red rose petals and sweet woods sit atop subtler tomato vine, soft oak, dried black tea leaf, tender savory herbs and soft spice. At the end, slate and a hint of truffle join in as fruit flavors tail off.

Finish – Long and flavorful, with a crushed velvet feel that shows up at the tail end. As the fruit tapers off, soft truffle and slate complete the experience.

Conclusion – Once again, we are so pleased by another great Ceja Pinot Noir. Allow the wine time to open up, by decanting, and you will be rewarded with more authentic fruit and a Fuller, more elegant feel. Rich with flavor and expressive aromatics, this well-rounded wine is a fantastic example of Napa Carneros Pinot Noir. Complex and interesting enough to enjoy on its own, this wine was really built with food in mind. A perfect companion for nearly anything. We paired ours with corn crust pizza with generous tomato sauce, salty Kalamata olives and feta cheese. It was a perfect pairing, with the wine enhancing the meal and offering a tasty cleanse of the palate between bites.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Armando Ceja

WINE EDUCATION: My wine education started immediately upon my arrival here to the US from Mexico. I immigrated in 1967 with my family when I was seven years old. We settled in north Napa where I started working alongside my parents and siblings in the vineyards. Over the years I fell in love with the grape growing process and eventually decided I would make a career out of it. I worked at various wineries throughout high school and even had the chance to make my first barrel of Cabernet Sauvignon at the age of seventeen before I headed off to UC Davis where I received degrees in oenology and viticulture. I was on my way!

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: After college I worked for Kenwood Vineyards in both winemaking and vineyard management before joining the management team at the Christian Brothers winery on Mt. Veeder. After a few years at Christian Brothers I decided it was time to strike out on my own; I formed Vina Del Sol (Vines of the Sun), my own vineyard management company.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Grow the best fruit possible in the vineyards and let nature take its course in the cellar utilizing gentle wine-making techniques.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Wine is not a lifestyle, it represents life itself.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1998, Sonoma Carneros Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Armando Ceja. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Sonoma Carneros Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Thanks for spreading the Ceja love. Can I have a cool “Agent” name, too?

RED: We’ve already given you one, Agent Carneros! Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: Having been born into a seasonal farm-working family, I had no choice but to work in the vineyards of Napa as a child. During harvest I would follow the grapes to the winery, curious to see how the grapes would end up. That curiosity still leads me to the cellar today.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: I was fortunate to have Gino Zepponi of ZD Wines as mentor growing up.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: Mother Earth

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

WINEMAKER: ou are featuring our signature 2007 Carneros Estate Pinot Noir from our Vina del Sol Vineyard, located in the heart of the Carneros appellation. We grow 15 acres of Pinot Noir made up of two clones: Dijon & Pommard. This wine is light in color and texture, feeling silky and tasting of cherry, currant & plum, with hints of loamy earth and rose petal on the polished finish. It’s one of my favorite vintages that I’ve ever produced.. enough said..

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: This wine pairs beautifully with so many types of dishes. Considering the nice weather that we’ve been having some of my favorite pairings involve grilling outside. Grilled chicken, grilled skirt steak and grilled vegetables paired with our Pinot Noir is a killer combo!

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Carneros region so special?

WINEMAKER: The proximity to the cool fog and breezes from the bay makes the climate in Los Carneros cooler and more moderate than the wine regions further north in Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cooler climate has made Carneros attractive for the cultivation of certain varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (two of our flagship varietals). I will always consider Carneros such a special appellation because it’s also the first acreage we acquired purchased in 1983.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: We’re finalizing 2009 Pinot Blends for the Estate Vineyard wines & blending our our 2010 red varietals to make our new red “Vino de Casa” blends. Let’s not forget tasting, and re-tasting all of the lots, that’s probably the most important aspect in the cellar right now.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

WINEMAKER: With a wine glass and corkscrew!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the Ceja Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Vina Del Sol vineyard and Ceja Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Peters Family Winery ‘Sonoma Stage Vineyard’ Chardonnay

Mission Codename: The World is his Stage

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Peters Family Winery. This time retrieve the newest vintage of Doug’s single vineyard Sonoma Stage Vineyard Chardonnay, an Operative favorite, in previous vintages.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peters Family Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Stage Vineyard

Winemaker: Douglas Peters

Backgrounder: The Wine Spies have always been huge fans of Peters Family wines. We have always enjoyed Doug’s Chardonnay, one of his signature varietals, and we were excited to have the opportunity to showcases his latest 2007, from the famous Sonoma Stage vineyard. This prestigious vineyard was planted in 1999 by the Hyde family, and located at the southern end of the Sonoma Coast Appellation. The vineyard sits between Petaluma and Carneros, a cool site with substantial marine influences that keeps yields low, and flavors intense. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Clear but concentrated color, showing light golden hues, from center to edge. When swirled, this wine shows a bouncy surface that settles quickly. After settling, the wine leaves behind tall and skinny legs that move swiftly down the glass.

Smell – Fragrant and fresh, with sweet lemon curd, fresh orange peel, soft white flower petals, Meyer lemon and a hint of pear. As the wine opens up, it reveals vanilla custard, a hint of spice and the subtle aroma of fresh cookie dough.

Feel – On opening, the wine has a wet and slightly thin feel. At it opens up, it becomes ultra-soft and voluptuous on entry and across the mid-palate. Bright acidity makes the mouth water slightly. As the wine settles at the back-palate, soft tannins gradually emerge, spreading a soft dryness from the edges, inward.

Taste – Shy with its flavors, on opening, this wine really opens up with a little decanting or some hearty swirling. Once coaxed a little, bright lemon, navel orange, lemon curd and fresh lemongrass mingle on the palate with white flowers, green apple, soft oak, mild spice and bread dough.

Finish – Medium-long, bright and very flavorful, with an initial roundness that goes softly lean and the palate dries and flavors tail off. At the very end, a flinty minerality lingers on.

Conclusion – This is a wonderful Chardonnay, with plenty of character. Different from the previous vintages that we have shown, this wine has its own unique profile. Where the 2005 that we showed, here, was a robust wine, this vintage shows more elegance and restraint. Plenty flavorful, this wine just seems more lighthearted. On opening, the wine is very shy, holding back flavors and aromatics that emerge with some decanting or a good swirling. Not only does the wine improve in these way, but it also becomes more full and round on the palate. Be sure to let the wine open up – and even warm up – before enjoying. You’ll be rewarded with a fuller, more tasty experience.

Mission Report:

We’re going old-school, today, by presenting you with one of our old style Mission Reports, rather than our regular Winemaker Interview. What follows is our original mission report, in which Agent Red hunts harder than usual for a great wine:

One of my most valued Assets, Codename: Valley Girl, alerted me to Peters Family Winery recently. After an undercover visit to the winery tasting room, I needed no convincing that this wine was a wonderful treat that our Operatives needed to be brought up to speed on.

Not to boast, too much here, but you know that when I have my sights set on a wine, procuring it is not usually a problem. Our reputation often proceeds us and wineries make their wonderful wines immediately available to us.

The mission to procure this wine, however, was somewhat more difficult; Peters Family winemaker and head honcho, Douglas Peters was secreted away in an undisclosed location – but I was determined to track him down so that we could negotiate a small procurement for our Operatives.

A flurry of email and telephonic subterfuge ensued and I tracked Doug to his secret lair south of the border. Because his wines are that good, I spared no expense and called on our resident pilot, Agent White, to fuel up the Wine Spies Spy Plane. Reluctant to spend the money for a long flight like this one, Agent White did take a bit of persuasion but, in the end, complied with my request; He was easily convinced after one small taste of this wine.

While I didn’t have an exact location on Doug, I did have the name of the village. After a harrowing landing on a small dirt strip in high crosswinds (an Agent White favorite!), we were able to convince the local constabulary to help us locate Doug. It only too a few cases of wine to do the trick.

We found Doug on the beach, recognizing him from his photo on his website. A glass of wine in hand, Doug seems to be enjoying the sunset.

Wasting no time with subterfuge, I got right to the point.

“I’m sorry to bother you on your vacation, Mr. Peters. I’m Agent Red, Wine Spy, and I am here to ask you for a your wine.”

“Sorry, I don’t link to share glasses with strangers. You know, germs”

Then a smile spreads across his face and he claps me on the shoulder (a feat that, at a head and a half taller than me, requires that Doug stoop slightly to reach me). “I’m just having fun with you,” He says. “Come on, have a seat, I’ll pour you a glass of my wine.”

I explained that is was because of this same wine that I made this expedition.

“It’s gooooood, isn’t it?” he asks.

My turn to smile.

We enjoyed the rest of the bottle, chatting about his wines and his approach to winemaking. Doug creates wines that are certainly of California, but also in a more Bordeaux style, giving the wines a great balance between old world and new. This, in my opinion, is a great way to approach winemaking as it delivers the best qualities of these two winemaking styles – without being at odds with each other.

After some deft negotiations, I had secured a small allotment for you, Operative, and then Doug excused himself.

“Here’s another bottle for you,” he offered. I’m off to watch the lunar eclipse tonight. It’ll be 3 years until we see another one. See you back in the States!”

With that, he left me there to further ponder his wine. Doug’s love for his craft shines through in this wine, which exhibits balance, brilliance and a depth of character that I find uncommon.

Bravo, Doug!

2007 Burgess Cellars Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The View From Above

Operative: Agent White

Objective: With Howell Mountain’s Burgess Cellars under extended surveillance, rush to procure their newest Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Burgess Celllars

Wine Subject: 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Steve Burgess

Backgrounder: Our Operatives love Burgess Cellars’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2004 and 2005 vintages we featured previous have become top operative favorites When we got wind that Steve’s 2007 vintage was ready, we were able to secure a special preview allocation of the fantastic 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, a delicious wine that is sure to please even the toughest of Cab critics.

Today’s selection comes from Burgess’s Howell Mountain Estate Vineyard. The Howell Mountain region in the Napa Valley is the birthplace of some of our very favorite wines. We fell in love early on and we have not been disappointed by a high-elevation Howell Mountain wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet and deep purple with a clear but dark and murky core. Its dense color remains to the meniscus and when swirled thins legs hang for a moment before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Toasted and smokey oak frame the spiced and ripe dark blackberry, cassis and red currants along with dark earthy minerals. The initially bold fruit, spice and wood aromas are woven with green herbal, sweet black licorice, cocoa and toasted vanilla hints.

Feel – Rich and expansive with highly textured minerality and a sturdy and powdered tannic structure. Its balanced acidity provides an chewy and generous feel and its soft spice lingers on the tip and corners of the tongue.

Taste – Blackberry, cassis, plum and currants lead the way in this fruit forward rich, concentrated and expansive wine. Toasted oak, soft spice, green herbal, pepper and black licorice linger along with tart fruit.

Finish – Long and expansive with the textured powdered tannins and earthy minerality coating the palate while the fruit flavor lingers. The dry and chewy mouth-feel makes the mouth water for another sip just as the fruit fades.

Conclusion – The 2007 Burgess Celllars Estate Cabernet Sauvignon will instantly appeal to lovers of mountain fruit Cabernet. Lead in with an inviting nose of classic aromas, this wines great texture and structure grasps a hold of the rich and concentrated flavors and lasts long after you take your sip. A great wine for prime rib roast with all the decadent fixings. Enjoy now after decanting or cellar for 5-7 years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Steve Burgess

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: We are into terroir and brilliance.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1972

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Steve. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

STEVE BURGESS: You are welcome. We look forward to spreading our normally clandestine wines through your network of spies, ”terroirists,” and foodie operatives.

WHITE: Excellent! Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

STEVE: Europe in the 1960s.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

STEVE: Europe in the 1960s.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

STEVE: We make wine for ourselves – in a style that is LOVED by chefs, foodies, and serious-wine people.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

STEVE: This is a special wine, from our mountain estates on the slopes of Howell Mountain. Only 4% of wines from California are from Napa, only about 10% of wines from Napa are hillside- if that. therefore, this wine represents a style that only 4/10 of 1%, of California wine can taste like. The beauty, depth, and character are amazing.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

STEVE: Lamb, Steak, Lasagne, Everything.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes your Napa Valley vineyards so special?

STEVE: See above, plus, our winery was originally built in the 188

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

STEVE: Re-wiring a barn, fixing a gate, bottling the 2009s, blending the 2010s, fine-tuning which barrels we use…

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

STEVE: With an open mind, mouth, and a curiosity as to “Wow, why is this so different and great? Where have you been all my life!”

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

STEVE: Please visit Burgess, we have the best view of the Napa Valley to enjoy while trying our estate-only wines. We are a part of Napa’s history, come see why!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Burgess Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Cascina Bruciata Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG

Mission Codename: Circa 1752

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional and exclusive Barolo for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cascina Bruciata

Wine Subject: 2006 Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG

Winemaker: Francesco Baravalle

Backgrounder:

The greatest of all Italian wines are arguably made with from the Nebbiolo grape. The wines of the Barolo DOCG are made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Nebbiolo, native to the Piedmont in north-west Italy and cultivated in the region since the 13th century is generally a bolder than its little sister Barbaresco. The late ripening Nebbiolo is known to be highly influenced by various soil and vineyard conditions, with the wines from the best vineyard sites having sublime character.

Most people don’t give Barolo enough time and drink them young, but those patient enough to wait at least 7 – 8 years, and often as much as 20 plus years are handsomely rewarded with a wine that is the ultimate expression of the grape. The most prized bottlings of Barolo are those from an exceptional single vineyard such as today’s from the Cannubi Muscatel cru.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and dark ruby red with ruby streaks that shine when held to the light. A slightly more viscous wine, when swirled, slow fat and color-laden legs ring the glass.

Smell – Bold and redolent with dusty wood and earthy notes that complement its blackberry, black cherry and ripe red plum fruit. Green herbs along with some black licorice, spice and floral violets adds complexity to the nose

Feel – Full-bodied, smooth and dry; this wine’s sturdy tannins are expansive and powder fine across the palate. Vibrant acidity and textured minerality provides a framework for the elegant flavors than last long into the finish.

Taste – A medley of red and black cherry along with blackberry are richly layered over dusty and earthy minerality. Sweet tobacco, green Herbes de Provence, black licorice, exotic spice box and subtle tar blend perfectly.

Finish – Ultra long with this wines highly textured and sturdy tannins gripping onto the palate for an eternity as the black cherry, blackberry, spice and minerality other complex flavors linger away.

Conclusion – The 2006 Cascina Bruciata Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG is a fine exceptional example of the power and grace found in fine Barolo. This wine’s finesse and complexity on the nose and palate is fully supported by its study and textured structure. Perhaps too young to drink now (decant or let breathe for at least an hour), this wine will improve for a decade or more. Pair this wine with any classic Piedmonte cuisine, especially anything with truffles in it.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Francesco Baravalle

WINE EDUCATION: Winemaking and Viticulture degree from University of Turin (2001) Sommelier degree (2008)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Use the technologies in the cellar to preserve the quality of the grapes and enhance the expression of the territory.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Wine is devotion to land and people’s culture

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Francesco, We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

FRANCESCO: Greetings to you Agent White! It is a great pleasure for me to talk to you about our wines.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

FRANCESCO: I maybe didn’t realize it at the time, but I believe that it was when I was a kid, watching my grandfather bring home grapes and be so excited to crush them and to start the fermentation. Furthermore his pride when putting his own bottle on the table to share with friends saying: “Guys, I made this, enjoy it!”

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

FRANCESCO: I think more than a specific wine or winemaker, undoubtedly, Burgundy is a very inspiriting territory where both the people and the authenticity of the wine have influenced me.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

FRANCESCO: I make wine primarily for consumers who want to know more about our people and our land through our wines.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

FRANCESCO: This wine comes from a little vineyard (2000 square meters) in one of the most prestigious and probably the first vineyard classified in the Barolo area, the Cannubi. The oldest bottle from the Langhe region we have a record of is a Cannubi 1752, way before the Barolo DOCG appellation was established in 1980.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

FRANCESCO: I really like to pair our Barolo with braised beef cooked for a long time with a wine based sauce. Here in the Piedmont we have a local cattle breed that have the perfect meat to cook this kind of dish.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Barolo & Piedmont so special?

FRANCESCO: The great diversity of terroirs that are capable of making authentic wines with different personalities. Furthermore the Nebbiolo grown in Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero produces unique wines.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

FRANCESCO: Working in a very small winery allows me to have a very seasonable schedule. Specifically in this period of the year I dedicate a lot of time to promoting and communicating our wines to journalist tastings or new vintage presentations.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

FRANCESCO: Discovering a wine it is not only a matter of magazine reviews or critic’s scores, it is a way to learn about people and culture that live together with the vines that will give birth to great wines.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

WINEMAKER: Yes, I really would like to share some time with them at the Cascina Bruciata winery. Come to visit us to learn about our lifestyle, culture and taste. Our cellar doors are always open to visitors!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

FRANCESCO: Thank you and to The Wine Spies for your attention to our land and wines! Arrivederci!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Cascina Bruciata and its vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Encanto Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Me Encanto Esta Vina

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Track down winemaker Rudy Zuidema on and acquire his first Pinot Noir release.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Encanto Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Rudy Zuidema

Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the independent Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. Originally designated in 1983, the region’s distinct Terroir and cool climate make it one of the best regions for the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first grapes were planted here in the early 1800s by missionaries. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here.

Today’s Carneros Pinot Noir is made by our good friend and rising star winemaker Rudy Zuidema who also makes wine for White Cottage Ranch has worked at some of Napa’s best wineries such as Robert Craig, Honig and St. Clement and also consults for several other wineries.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet in color with ruby streaks and a subtle violet tint that shows when poured into the glass. When swirled, tightly spaced and fast pin-thin legs ring the glass.

Smell – Fragrant aromas of black cherry and other red and black fruit blend with exotic spice, smokey oak and soft earthy notes. Hints of flowers, cocoa and anise also emerge giving this wine a lovely but approachable complexity.

Feel – Ultra smooth, this dry and medium-to-full bodied Pinot is expansive on the palate and has fine but sturdy tannins that are framed with lively acidity and textured minerality that grasps the fruit and lingers into the finish.

Taste – Ripe black cherry, red raspberry and some strawberry lead off with notes of toasted oak with toasted vanilla reflexes, exotic spice, sweet herb and soft earthy notes. The subtle anise and cocoa from the nose also make an appearance on the palate.

Finish – Very clean and medium in length with the spice and minerality lingering just longer than the bright ripe fruit and other flavors.

Conclusion – For an inaugural release, the 2008 Encanto Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir is a delicious example of why Carneros is one of the top regions for the varietal in California. A lovely nose, smooth and expansive on the palate and great fruit and other complex classic flavors all work in unison. For a youthful wine, it is drinking very well right now and should continue to develop for many years to come. A sturdier Pinot with good acidity, this wine will pair well with many creative kitchen creations and it was a big hit with diners at Pimento’s Restaurant in Exeter, NH where Agent White covertly enjoys great local New England food with an international flair.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Rudy Zuidema

WINE EDUCATION: BS Degree in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Patz and Hall, Robert Craig, Ehlers Estate, White Cottage Ranch, The GRADE.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I would like to act as a historian through wine. Showing what mother nature brings to each vintage and making sure the wine speaks clearly of it.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: It takes a lot of beer to make wine.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1996 Robert Craig Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Rudy. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Encanto Vineyards Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RUDY ZUIDEMA: I am so happy to be featured on your site today. It is one of my favorite sites to keep up with the pulse of the industry.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RUDY: I will always remember the epiphany I had drinking the 1987 Jordan Cabernet. It was the first time the nuances and subtle flavors that my mentors were describing actually popped out for me.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RUDY: There are so many. Ben Riggs from Australia taught me about wine work integrity and how just “good enough” is absolutely not good enough. Auraujo wines to me are the most authentic that come out of Napa Valley. I want to my wines to be similar in how they taste like farming, not winemaking.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RUDY: I make wine that my wife and I can enjoy anytime, anyplace. My wines should go just as well with a friend and a sunset as they do with at five course dinner.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RUDY: This is my very first effort at making Pinot Noir. After 20 years of winemaking it finally happened. I took a pretty conservative approach to making this to make sure that the elegance, grace, and finesse that I love about Pinot Noir were present. I am very happy with the complexity of the aromas and the layers of spicy fruit. My proudest accomplishment of this wine is the refined balanced finish and its velvety texture.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RUDY: I just made a scallion and chanterelle mushroom risotto using some of Napa Style’s truffle salt and fresh Parmesan from the Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufactory here in St. Helena. I haven’t had that full of a belly in quite some time.

RED: In your opinion, what makes Carneros so special?

RUDY: Carneros is known for its heavy soils, cool nights and mild days allowing for harmonious ripening of delicate grape varieties. This particular vineyard is indeed very cool but with rocky well drained soils that brings out darker, deeper fruit and more crisp acid. The finish is soooooooo long.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RUDY: Spring has sprung so a am wearing my farming hat. The plentiful rainy season has made it very easy to open up the soils waking up the plants. I have been on a tractor for the last few days mowing the legume based cover crop down to decompose. We’ve also begun our first biodynamic tea application.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RUDY: With a sense of ease and confidence. I know not everyone will love this wine, but I am sure that many will. So keep putting it in your mouth if you like it, and go find something else if you don’t. Perhaps a beer??

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RUDY: Just to never get too set on the same wines from the same producers. There is so much out there to be discovered, the wine adventure never ends.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

RUDY: Always a pleasure fellas!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Encanto Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Hartwell Vineyards Estate Sauvignon Blanc

Mission Codename: All Hartwell

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to the Hartwelll Estate winery, where some of our Operatives’ best-loved Cabernets have come from. In time for Springtime sipping, direct Agent Red to sample their white wine selections, in order to secure an ample allotment for our thirsty Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Hartwell Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2009 Sauvignon Blanc

Winemaker: Benoit Touquette

Backgrounder: Sauvignon Blanc originally hails from the Loire Valley in France, but has found new homes in other parts of France (Bordeaux, where it is blended with Sauternes), New Zealand (especially the Marlborough region) and, of course, California. Sauvignon Blanc is generally dry and crisp with flavors of apples, pears and tropical fruit and it tends to have bright acidity that lends itself well to pairing with spicy foods.

Today’s wine was grown in Hartwell’s Carneros AVA vineyards. While the wine drinkers around the globe may argue about which region grows the best wines in the Napa Valley, we don’t take sides; We happen to be enamored with Carneros, sure, but what matters most is that our Operatives are the ultimate beneficiaries the selection of today’s wine!

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Pale straw yellow, right out to the glinting edges of the wine. When swirled, the wine shows a tight and springy surface that settles quickly. Tall columns of wide legs start high on the glass, thinning as they run down to the surface below.

Smell – Fragrant and lush, with green apple, Asian mango, yellow grapefruit and lemongrass that leap from the glass. These are followed, closely, by vanilla, Meyer lemon, lime and slate.

Feel – Soft and creamy at the tip of the tongue, the wine glides across the entry and over the mid-palate. Bright acidity at the edges of the palate causes the mouth to water, bringing out more of the fruit flavors of the wine. After a moment, soft tannins add a hint of dryness add to the complexity of the wine.

Taste – Bright and bold, with more real fruit than one might expect from a Sauvignon Blanc! Delicious flavors of grapefruit, lemon, green mango and slightly underripe white peach are right out front. As the wine warms, even slightly, additional dimension and flavors emerge. These flavors, which include slate, lime, pear and white flowers are delicious.

Finish – Long and dynamic, with high and bright fruit yielding to lime zest, white flowers and slate. As these flavors gradually taper off, a hint of tartness persists at the endges of the palate for a very long time.

Conclusion – The best Sauvignon Blanc I have tasted and reviewed here, this wine delivers a a wonderful drinking experience. The wine has a superior mouth-feel, wonderful flavors, and enticing aromas. Delicious and fruit-forward, with none of the problems that can plague the varietal, this is the perfect Spring or Summer wine – and the perfect Fall and Winter Holiday wine! Okay, so the wine is perfect year-round. I don’t mind sounding overly blustery by declaring this. The bold flavors of the wine are tempered by its brightness, making the wine a great pairing partner for most foods. I recommend pairing the wine with a fruit and cheese plate, or a spicy Asian dish. Ready to drink now, the winery also recommends that you carefully stash a few bottles, as the wine will continue to improve for the next couple of years. I don’t normally get excited about a Sauvignon Blanc, but this one has really captivated me!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Benoit Touquette

WINE EDUCATION: Master Science Degree of Enology University Bordeaux

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Worked as assistant to Andy Erickson 04 – 07 ,Winemaker at Hartwell since then

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: to craft wine that expresses the specific characteristics of the terroir and fruit from the vines

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Life is to share….wine too….

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2006

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Benoit. We are thrilled to be showing your 2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BENOIT: My pleasure!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BENOIT: I have been fortunate to work with great people such as Michel Rolland, Andy Erickson etc… and fortunate to work in many parts of the world, Napa Valley, France and South Africa

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BENOIT: Michel Rolland; with no question.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BENOIT: I would say myself being a bit selfish but in the end hopefully the consumer will like the wine we produce

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BENOIT: Our 2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from our Carneros Estate vineyard and was grown during a superb vintage. Michel Rolland and I carefully blend this wine after five months aging from three different fermentation vessels; seasoned French oak barrels, stainless steel barrels and our concrete egg. I strive to produce a Sauvignon Blanc that shows more developed fruit aromatics along with a richer mouthfeel than most other producers, while still maintaining a precise and sweet acidity to keep the finish crisp and refreshing.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BENOIT: This wine drinks beautifully on its own during a warm summer day, but I really think it is superb with either a tangy chevre from the Loire Valley or a freshwater fish such as trout prepared in a Beurre Blanc sauce (perhaps I am a bit biased towards the classic French pairings?)

RED: That’s very European! In your opinion, what makes the Carneros region so special?

BENOIT: The Carneros region has a perfect climate for slow ripening of white varietals with its cool and foggy mornings, warm yet mild sunny days and cool breezy evenings. Sauvignon Blanc really performs well in this region since it has the chance to slowly develop its flavors without losing its vitality and clarity since the acidity is never lost to the heat.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BENOIT: I am balancing time equally between the vineyard and the winery. In the vineyards we have gone through bud break so we are just beginning to formulate our initial strategy (like when to cut back our winter cover crop, etc…) I am always keeping an eye on the weather reports as well to assist me in my decision making for the upcoming season. Many of the choices I make now will play a very important role in how the vintage turns out! In the winery we are continuing to rack our 2009 reds and putting together some trial blends before bottling later this summer. I am very excited for the reds from 2009 almost as much as I was for the Sauvignon Blanc!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BENOIT: It is always good to let the wines breath (young or old) thru a decanting process. Always pay attention to the pour temperature if you want to get the best from the wine you are drinking.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

BENOIT: Just have fun discovering, tasting and sharing new wines with friends and family…be fearless and adventuress.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

BENOIT: Merci, et mon plaisir!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Hartwell Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Epiphany Cellars Revelation Syrah-Grenache-Petite Sirah Blend

Mission Codename: Tribute to Oz

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our good friends at Epiphany Cellars to retrieve their delicious Australia tribute Revelation Syrah/Grenache/Petite Sirah blend

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Epiphany Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Revelation Syrah/Grenache/Petite Sirah Blend

Winemaker: Blair Fox

Backgrounder:

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s selection, primarily from the Camp Four Vineyard (read further) is a blend of Syrah with some Grenache and Petite Sirah blended to pay tribute to the wines of Australia.

Australia’s Barossa & McLaren Vale is the regions most important and oldest of wine-growing regions. Well known for its ‘pull not punches’ Shiraz, the region’s cool ocean breezes on an otherwise hot dry climate, dry limestone and clay soil and relatively flat aspect that ranges from about 800 to 2000 feet in elevation provides an ideal growing environment for Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the other Bordeaux varietals as well as Chardonnay, Semillon and Riesling

The Camp Four Vineyard (also known as Fess Parker Ranch) is 1,400-acre parcel of land that was purchased by Fess Parker Winery in the spring of 1999. The initial 250-acre block was completed and produced its first crop in harvest 2003 – of that about 130 acres are Syrah and the rest other Rhone varietals. Located slightly Southwest from the winery in the Santa Ynez Valley, the warmer climates and loam soils of this site shows great potential for producing fully ripened, mature fruit.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Extremely dark and dense with a barely clear nearly black core that reflects garnet streaks when held to the light. Deep garnet along the edges and when swirled, medium thick legs of varying speeds cling the side of the glass.

Smell – Bold and redolent with rich spiced black-fruit, plum and boysenberry with a solid toasted and smokey oak component. Bacon fat, floral, peppery spice and earth adds rich complexity and invites a sip.

Feel – Initially smooth, this rich, dry and full-bodied wine hits boldly at mid-palate with warmly textured tannins, vibrant acidity and etched minerals that makes this wine both expansive and chewy but remains plush throughout the palate.

Taste – Ripe and plump dark fruit including blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry and plum blend with meaty, smokey and spiced and toasted vanilla wood notes. Dark minerality, green herbs, mocha and spicy pepper along with an earthy component and a touch of licorice

Finish – Long and rich ripe fruit, wood and smoke linger and fade only after several minutes leaving behind richly textured tannins, toasted vanilla oak and dark minerals along with some hot exotic spice.

Conclusion – The 2007 Epiphany Revelation Syrah/Grenache/Petite Sirah Blend is a delicious bold and masculine wine that has great bold black fruit blended with solid oak notes and plenty of other complex aromas and flavors including smoke, meat, vanilla and spice. This rich and extracted wine is simply perfect for grilled meats. Enjoy now after letting it open and breathe or cellar for up to ten years.

Mission Report:

Pardon us, but we were unable to secure an interview with Blair Fox, today. With bottling in full swing, Blair was too busy to sit with us. We’ll be sure to conduct a full debrief with Blair, the next time we feature another of his fantastic wines.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Blair Fox

DATE OF BIRTH: 10/74

PLACE OF BIRTH: Santa Barbara, CA

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Viticulture and Enology, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Enologist for Fess Parker Winery ‘99, Winemaker Sunstone Winery 99-02, Consultant winemaker Fess Parker Winery 02, Vintage Winemaker- Haselgrove Winery- McLaren Vale South Australia 03, Associate Winemaker in charge of the Rhone Varietal programs at Fess Parker 03-05, Head Winemaker for Fess Parker Winery 05-present

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I spend a lot of time in the vineyard because I feel that wines are truly made in the vineyard. I try to show the different qualities of the different vineyards and create wines with distinct varietal character.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: I have always been particularly fond of Syrah.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Travelling throughout the Rhone Valley in France and tasting some of the best examples of Syrah and other Rhone varietals the world has to offer.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: I feel privileged to work with some of the best vineyards and fruit in Santa Barbara County.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Epiphany Cellars in Solvang can be seen in this satellite photo.