2007 Ridgeline Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Riding the Ridgeline

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Ridgeline Vineyards, sister winery of our friends at Artesa. Secure an ample cache of their soon-to-be-released Cabernet Sauvignon for our waiting Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ridgeline Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Dave Dobson

Backgrounder:

Today’s Cabernet Sauvignon comes to us from our goood friends at Ridgeline Vineyards, in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. The Alexander Valley AVA in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest deep purple with an inky, almost black core. Color is concentrated, right out to the very edge of the glass. Swirl the wine and watch as wine-hued legs start high on the glass before they rush to the surface.

Smell – Overripe blackberry and Bing cherry lead off the lush nose. Ripe, sweet raspberry black cherry and blueberry follow. These sit atop soft cedar, spice, black pepper – and an intriguing subtle aroma of Peppermint Patty candy.

Feel – Initially plush and soft on entry. Then, softly grippy and textured with crushed velvet tannins. Spice and cedar contribute to the dry velvet feel, especially as flavors fade.

Taste – Juicy blackfruit preserves of overripe blackberry, plum, and dark blueberry over brown tobacco leaf, soft moist cedar shavings, fresh earthen dried herbs and white pepper.

Finish – Medium in length, jammy and and flavorful, with dark fruit that fades to reveal exotic spice, soft cedar and a mineral-driven white pepper.

Conclusion – The 2007 vintage is turning out to be a fantastic one for California Cabernet Sauvignon. Today’s 2007 Ridgeline Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a the best we have tried from this vintage. A very approachable and juicy wine, it is ripe and bursting with flavors. The feel is easy and elegant, and the aromatics are plain intriguing. The soft mint and chocolate was surprising, but it works just beautifully in this wine. Overall, this fun and easy-drinking wine shows great balance. We enjoyed our sample bottles with woodfired pizza with fresh mozzarella, spinach and bacon. The balanced acidity o the wine made it an easy compliment to the complex flavors of the pizza. This great Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon gets a hearty Wine Spies recommendation.

Mission Report:

We were unable to sit down with Ridgeline’s winemaking team today. What follows, for your enjoyment, is a recap of Agent White’s original mission to Artesa, the sister winery of today’s winery, Ridgeline. The following mission is from early 2009:

Finally, I was able to wrangle a choice assignment away from Agent Red! And, while he did all of the leg work for today’s mission, I get the glory.

Red had Artesa under surveillance for a long time, probably too long. I all fairness, he did gather a great deal on intel on the winery and that set the stage for my quick infiltration. If any mission goes on for too long, I am usually the one that is called on to complete the mission – and get the wine.

Read Agent Red’s mission updates in the W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine for our newest Operatives) archives. For my part, I’ll just tell you that a couple of calls to senior management at Artesa was all it took to secure today’s wine.

Rather than bore you with those details, I do want to point out a few things about Artesa and their world-class team.

If you ever find yourself in Napa, a visit to Artesa is not just recommended, it is essential. The winery grounds, sculpture gardens, architecture, and winery are magnificent. One has the feeling of visiting a world-class art museum, a winery and even a place of worship when spending time at Artesa.

In my case, the winery was the place of worship! For all of Artesa’s ambiance and style, the winery is really the divine place where their great wines are born. A few afternoon hours with the great counter staff – spent tasting through their wines – was such a delightful treat. The people, like the wines, were great fun.

Artesa in the U.S. is the extension of a Spanish winemaking family that dates back to the year 1551, when the Codorníu family first made wine at Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, in the Penedès region of Spain, just west of Barcelona.

The family continues making wines for centuries and in 1872, becomes the first in the world to make sparkling wines outside of Champagne in the méthode champenoise. This revolutionizes Spain’s wine industry.

In 1897, Codorníu is declared the exclisive supplier of wine to the king of Spain, King Alfonso XIII.

In 1915, the Codorníu winery build the world’s largest wine cellars, with five subterranean levels extending 16 miles.

The winery continues to grow and gain in prestige and honor for the next several decades. In 1989, they break ground on a revolutionary new winery in the Napa Valley. In 1991, Codorníu Napa opens as a méthode champenoise facility in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. Those of you that know our tastes, know that The Wine Spies are enamored with the Carneros region.

In 1999, the winery is renamed Artesa Winery and releases its inaugural wines – two Chardonnays, three Pinot Noirs, and a Sauvignon Blanc – to critical acclaim.

Earlier this year, the winery is joined by one of America’s only multi-generational winemakers, Mark Beringer. In the United States, ‘multi-generational’ in winemaking usually means two or three generations have been involved in the craft. Mark, whose great, great grandfather was winemaking pioneer, Jacob Beringer, is a fifth generation winemaker and head of winemaking for Artesa and Ridgeline today.

Throughout his career, Mark has been recognized as a leader and a pioneer in the field of winemaking. He has received numerous kudos and awards, including Winemaker of the Year by The San Francisco Chronicle.

If you can’t make it out to Artesa, at least you’ll be able to get a taste of the place by picking up a few bottles of today’s great wine.

As for Agent Red, don’t feel too bad for him. He was pretty bummed out that I was able to close the deal with Artesa, but that case of Artesa Cab I secured for him is keeping him plenty happy. For the moment!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Alexander Valley AVA in Sonoma County can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Casa Alle Vacche ‘Acantho’ San Gimignano DOC Rosso

Mission Codename: More To The Point

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive Super Tuscan for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Casa Alle Vacche

Wine Subject: 2007 ’Acantho’ San Gimignano DOC Toscana IGT Rosso

Winemaker: Dr. Paul Salvi

Backgrounder:

In just the last decade, Super Tuscans became the latest rage in Italian wine in the United States, however, their story goes back to the late 1940s when the famed Sassicaia wine was reportedly made by Incisa della Rochetta using Cabernet Sauvignon vines from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, or so the legend goes. Now Super Tuscans are the ‘Bordeaux’ of West-Central Italy, expertly blended with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and often Merlot, Colorino and other local grape varietals.

Today’s selection, a delicious blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon hails from the San Gimignano DOC, located in the hilly region in the Siena area. Wine making traditions in this region dates back to the Etruscan era and the wines are quite exceptional.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Nearly black, this deep garnet wine’s core is dark, brooding and inky that shows garnet streaks that barely reflect the light. Along the edges, the deep garnet color is revealed and when swirled, slow fat legs cling to the side of the glass before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Rich and bold with aromas of blackberry, dark plum and black cherry layered over savory spice, smokey toasted oak, wild black licorice and hints of leather and mocha.

Feel – Smooth, dry warm and expansive on the palate, this full-bodied wine has firm textured tannins and dark minerality that creates a chewy generous mouth feel. Lively acidity frames the fruit and lingers into the finish.

Taste – Tangy black fruit including tangy black cherry and blackberry with notes of ripe plum too. Smokey and toasted oak with soft vanilla hints and bittersweet dark chocolate integrate with meaty leather notes and savory and hot spice as well as the black licorice found of the nose.

Finish – Extremely long with the tangy black fruit and licorice notes leading the way and giving way to the textured tannins and vibrant acidity that dries the palate slightly and invites another sip.

Conclusion – If you are a fan of Super Tuscans, then today’s 2007 Casa Alle Vacche ’Acantho’ San Gimignano DOC Toscana IGT Rosso is a wine well worth a try! Rich, tangy and savory on the nose and palate framed by well structured tannins and acidity, this wine really delivers the Italian experience. We couldn’t help ourselves with this one and paired this wine with a classic Osso Buco. Enjoy this wine now (after decanting) or cellar for the next ten years.

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Dr. Paul Salvi

WINE EDUCATION: Degree in Technical Enology from the Istituto Tecnico Agrario at Siena 1994. In 1986 earned title of enologist from courses at Florence University, Montpellier and Bordeaux

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Vinify giving the utmost respect to the raw materials, using the appropriate technologies permitted to express the full potential of the grapes respecting of the typicity of the vineyard and production area.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: The wine is the fruit of the earth, the seasons and the passion of man.
No wine may be identical to another, this is the charm of this product.
There is always something to learn and discover.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: The first wine that I was responsible from start to finish was Vernaccia di San Gimignano 1991 vintage

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Paul. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 ‘Acantho’ San Gimignano DOC Rosso today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

PAUL: Thank you for showcasing our fantastic ‘Acantho’.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

PAUL: I always watched my grandfather and my father, who pruned the vineyard, and smiled as they reflected on the fruits of their labors.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

PAUL: Mythical creatures, in particular Tachis but the reality for us is tradition, tradition, tradition

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

PAUL: For the satisfaction of being told. “How good it is.”

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

PAUL: The 2007 ‘Acantho’ San Gimignano DOC Rosso is a Super Tuscan Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon aged eighteen months in cask before finishing. Our soul, our character and Terroir is reflected in this wine.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

PAUL: A simple beef steak, best cut “Florentine”.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Tuscan region so special?

PAUL: The air we breathe in the Tuscan landscape is unique, you feel the huge tradition of art and ancient culture.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

PAUL: This is the highlight of the year, the end of the grape harvest.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

PAUL: Our wines are the result of hard work, not a hobby or a second job. Our families live with the wine and for the wine. So I think those who taste our wine with heart and focus, understand it. For wine in general the quality and commitment have a cost, and consider value for money and consider that family businesses like ours are struggling for every bottle of wine. Every bottle is hard work, hope, Joy and the difficulty of an entire family.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

PAUL: Give in to the temptation and purchase of a bottle of Acatho, close your eyes and take a sip and imagine our hills with vineyards and olive groves, as they are kissed by the warmth of the sun making it a product uniquely of this land.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Casa Alle Vacche can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Chronicle Wines One Hundred Year Old Vines Zinfandel

Mission Codename: Ground Zero Zin

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of Chronicle’s famed One Hundred Year Old Vines Zinfandel

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Chronicle Wines

Wine Subject: 2006 One Hundred Year Old Vines Zinfandel

Winemaker: Dan Cederquist

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is often aptly named California’s grape. Its history and lore and the wines that result are often the makings of legend. In this case, winemaker Dan Cederquist selected the fantastic old-vine grapes from a two vineyards the Gaddis Vineyard planted in 1903 and Gambogi Vineyard, planted in 1906 – both in the Russian River Valley.

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Napa Valley Zinfandel, specifically old vine Zin, are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are among the most popular with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet purple with dark ruby reflections and streaks through its clear core. Along the edges the color lightens just slightly to a brighter ruby/purple and when swirled, this springy wine leaves slow clusters of thin legs along the side of the glass.

Smell – Bright and fresh aromas of ripe brambly red fruit including raspberry, red cherry and hints of strawberry are layered over savory and meaty hints. Herbal bramble, floral notes and exotic spice adds complexity to the very pleasant nose.

Feel – Extremely smooth and initially cool then at mid-palate finely textured tannins and a touch of spice kicks in that lingers into the finish. The bright red fruit is perfectly framed with its lively acidity and tanginess.

Taste – Big but also very smooth with ripe red fruit leading the way with notes of raspberry, red cherry and other bramble fruit followed by soft but present oak and exotic clove and allspice, pepper. dark mocha and savory notes.

Finish – Medium-long in length, soft and super clean that fades gracefully with its finely textured tannins and tangy acidity lingering on and making the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Chronicle Wines One Hundred Year Old Vines Zinfandel is a remarkably smooth and clean wine with a very approachable nose and a smooth palate. Great red fruit with bramble notes, savory and exotic notes don’t overpower but adds complexity without being disjointed. A lovely wine that will pair well with aged cheeses and smoked meats.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Dan Cederquist

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dan Cedarquist Wines, Owner; Everett Ridge Winery, President, Executive Winemaker.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Be Patient

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: March 2008

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Dan. We are thrilled to be showing Chronicle’s 2006 One Hundred Year Old Vines Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DAN CEDARQUIST: Thanks, Agent Red. It is our pleasure to showcase our Zinfandel with you, today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DAN: Living in Europe for six months while I was in college, and immersing myself in all of the fascinating and varied cultures of food and wine across Europe. It was an absolute blitz of the senses!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DAN: Ted Lemon of Littorai.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

DAN: Foodies and wine geeks!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DAN: The 2006 One Hundred Year Old Vines Zinfandel offers that rare visceral opportunity to taste and experience history. It is sourced from two historic vineyard sites that were originally planted around the Turn of the Century, when Sonoma County was a network of dirt byways traveled by horseback and on foot. Over the years, the fruit has developed profound complexity and exoticism, that simply is hard to find in wine these days.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DAN: Crockpot-braised short ribs with root vegetables.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

DAN: The history. This area of the Russian River Valley, the Santa Rosa plain, features some of the oldest field blend plantings in the West. Additionally, the cool climate in this area is essential to the style of wines I aim to craft under Chronicle.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DAN: Preparing for bottling of the 09 single vineyard wines.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

DAN: Recognize that they are cool climate wines, featuring good natural acidity and balance to complement a variety of cuisine. These wines are best enjoyed over a meal.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

DAN: Salud!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the neighboring vineyards, where today’s Zinfandel was born, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Spelletich Cellars Spellwine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: How do you SPELLwine?

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit Spelletich Cellars and acquire their 2nd Generation Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Spellwine, the new generation of Spelletich Cellars

Wine Subject: 2005 Spellwine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Barbara Spelletich

Backgrounder:

Today’s wine represents the new generation of wines from our friends at Spelletich Cellars. Guided by Kristen Kahler, the daughter of winemaker Barbara Spelletich, Spellwines are an exciting addition to the Spelletich lineup.

Some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon in the world come from Napa Valley. A delicious and elegant example of the varietal, today’s wine is a Classic Napa Cabernet. Approachable, richly flavorful and deeply delicious, this wine shows off the winemaking skills of Barbara Spelletich – a delicious wine at a price that is difficult to resist.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Intensely dark purple with deep garnet edges and a dark but clear core. When swirled, this slightly viscous wine leaves slender and widely spaced legs that race to the wine below.

Smell – Medium bold in intensity with rich Bing cherry, cassis and dark fruit layered over licorice and balsam notes. Green herbs, pepper and balanced notes of oak linger along with hints of sweet spice and mocha.

Feel – This dry and full-bodied wine is expansive and chewy with firm tannins that grip into the finish. Textured dark minerality, warming spice and bright acidity contribute to a chewy mouth feel.

Taste – Fruit forward in character with blackberry, dark cherry, cassis and currants meld with sweet and peppery spice. Licorice and toasted oak along with the green herbs and mocha layer into the finish.

Finish – Medium long in length with the rich ripe fruit and chewy texture reaching the far corners of the palate with its spice, pepper, oak and green herbs and drying tannins begging for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Spelletich Cellars Spellwine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious and value conscious wine. Great rich and ripe dark fruit with a chewy and expansive palate makes me long for the BBQ as this wine is perfect for grilled burgers or even skirt steak or carne asada.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Barbara Spelletich

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Cork & Bottle, Seattle Washington, Retail Store Manager. Taught Wine Classes, wine tasting and cheese; St. Michelle, Woodinville, Washington, Retail Sales Manager, Public Events, Tasting Room Zephyr Imports, Owner; Imported wines from Italy, France, Germany, Spain & Portugal; Whitwhams, Responsible for US sales. We were negociants for Cru Classe Bordeaux, Ports & Burgundies. Offices in Manchester England & Cenon, Bordeaux; St. Clement, St. Helena, CA National Sales Manager; Spelletich Cellars, Owner & Winemaker

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: As natural as possible.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ” I do want to manipulate wine. I want to harvest when ripe, ferment cool to capture the fruit essence and age until the wine is ready to be bottled. The most important feature of my wine is that it smell and taste of the grapes it was made from. Simple.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Bodog Red 1993, Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 & Chardonnay 1994. All Napa Valley.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Barbara. Welcome back! We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Spellwines Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BARBARA SPELLETICH: Excited to be here.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BARBARA: Yes, a trip to California when I was 18 years old. I tasted Cabernet Sauvignon at a dinner and that was it!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BARBARA: The list is long as I imported wine from France, Germany, Italy, Portugal & Spain for years. Angelo Gaja taught me to not compromise, Signore Gentini taught me to blend, Egon Mueller taught me to plant the right clone of grapes and keep the vines healthy. Each of the wines I exported to my company, Zephyr Imports, in Seattle Washington had a story, a style, a commitment to excellence & a creative curve.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BARBARA: I make wine for customers. I make wines that are great with food. So my customers are also foodies who like wine. Same me & my family & friends.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BARBARA: Spellwine Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is a wine created by my daughter, Kristen. This is her concept of bringing less expensive great Napa Valley wine to consumers. This wine is a blend of three vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon and our Carneros Merlot. Berry aromas and integrated smooth tannins start your palate vibrating into a rich and refreshing perfectly balanced wine with a long finish.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BARBARA: Hamburgers, Chili, Chocolate Torte, my husband, dinner.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valleyso special?

BARBARA: Napa Valley is one of the smallest regions in the world. The diversity in the valley is amazing from topography, geography, geology and of course the clones of grapes we use in each of our vineyards. Weather is consistently conducive to creating wonderful wine.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BARBARA: Blending and bottling.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BARBARA: Use your nose first. As a winemaker, I love the smell of wine. So the aroma is the first sense of any wine we taste. I like to swirl my wine to open it up and then take my first sip and roll this around my mouth a bit before I swallow. Sometimes we need to let a wine open up and show its personality before we really get it. Take your time with wine. The wait is worth it.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

BARBARA: Taste wines you have never tried before. You will fall in love. Again.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Spelletich Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Robert Stemmler Winery Estate Grown Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: True Pioneer

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Robert Stemmler Winery, a Wine Spies Operative favorite, and acquire the newest release of their delicious Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Robert Stemmler Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the independent Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. Originally designated in 1983, the region’s distinct Terroir and cool climate make it one of the best regions for the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first grapes were planted here in the early 1800s by missionaries. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby hued with perfect clarity. At its core, the wine shows as slightly darker, and out at the edges, a fine ring of pink encircles the glass. Swirl the wine, and witness chubby, wine-hued legs, that march slowly down the glass.

Smell – Lush and layered, with fragrant aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cherry and black tea. These mingle with earthen dark minerals, soft sweetwoods, subtle green peppercorn and kola nut.

Feel – Soft and plush at first, then the wine has an initially grippy feel. Velvety tannins are supported by bright acidity and a soft, but subtle, peppercorn spice.

Taste – Dark and earthen, with medium intensity, this wine leads with earthy forest floor, dusky black cherry and black tea leaf. Dark plum, strawberry, gunpowder, dried fall leaves and spice round out the wonderful flavors.

Finish – Very long, leading with red fruit and quickly tailing off to a long-lived black tea, forest floor and black peppercorn spice. As these fade, a flinty minerality lingers on for a long time.

Conclusion – The 2008 Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir is a fantastic – and I daresay better – follow up to the excellent 2007 vintage of this wine. The wine is every bit as inviting and accessible as the previous vintage, but this wine shows more complexity on the nose and on the palate. With a plush feel, and layers of deep flavor that are supported by the wine’s rich aromatics, this wine is an experience. We love Carneros Pinot Noir and this wine gives the region something to be very proud of. The wine is drinking beautifully now, and will continue to progress for the next several years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Kenneth Juhasz

WINE EDUCATION: Industry Learned

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Began working with Donum Estate in 2002, now consult with several California wineries and own Auteur

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Dualism, great structure while maintaining elegance

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Summer 2003 – 2002 Stemmler Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Kenneth, we are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Carneros Estate Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KENNETH JUHASZ: Great to be here, Agent Red.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KENNETH: No, it was a series of experiences in the restaurant business where I came to understand the beauty and lifestyle of wine and the culture around it.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KENNETH: Montrachet.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KENNETH: I make wine for the vineyard, I do everything or as little as possible to let the vineyard speak.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

KENNETH: It is a scope of all the clones from the Donum Estate, each farmed and made separately, it is an expression of both the place and people that work there.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KENNETH: Roasted Chicken

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Carneros region so special?

KENNETH: Not only its beauty, but the maritime feel of Southern Carneros; often you can taste the sea salt in the air and sometimes in the wine from the breezes that blow off San Pablo Bay.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KENNETH: Less in the winery, more in the vineyard, we are starting verasion, when the green grapes start to change red, and it is time to inspect crop levels and make final fruit thinning passes.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

KENNETH: Do not expect all power, look for and enjoy finesse.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KENNETH: Thank you, it is always a pleasure to work with you.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Robert Stemmler Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Signorello Vineyards Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay

Mission Codename: A Whole New Level

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Respond to reports that Signorello Vineyards’ newest Chardonnay is worthy of our Operatives exacting tastes. If the wine is as good as reports have led us to believe, procure an ample allocation for our Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Signorello Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2008 Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay

Winemaker: Pierre Birebent

Backgrounder: Chardonnay is arguably the greatest of all white grape varietals, showing its influence in the legendary sparkling wines of Champagne, the great whites of Burgundy and of course its expression as ’the’ white wine of California. Chardonnay represents over 50% of the planted white grapes in California with nearly 100,000 acres planted. With such a great number of wines made from this grape, it stands to reason that finding wines of immense quality would be hard, but look no further. Today’s selection, from Signorello’s own Vielles Vignes vineyard, is a great wine of distinctive character.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Glinting golden yellow with perfectly even coloration, right out the the very edge of the glass. When swirled, the wine keeps spinning and spinning, eventually settling – leaving behind tall columns of skinny legs that move slowly down the glass.

Smell – Bright and tropical, with immediate notes of pineapple, green mango, start fruit and white peach. These are neatly folded into white flowers, green melon, green apple, soft vanilla and Meyer lemon.

Feel – On the initial entry, the wine feels taught and lean. Then, something magical happens! As soon as the wine moves to the mid palate, it softens into liquid silk, treating your mouth to one of the softest, roundest wines you have ever felt. Even more intriguing is the fact that, at the edges off the tongue, the wine actually adds a soft dryness. After you swallow the wine, this dryness spreads inward, softly drying the mouth with a soft-white minerality.

Taste – Delicious and complex, lead by tart green apple, sweet golden apple, star fruit and Meyer lemon. Yellow pear, melon, dried white flowers, peach, custard and a hint of wildflower honey round, soft oak and a hint of vanilla out the flavors.

Finish – Long and delicious, starting with sweet flavors that then go slightly tart, as minerals and soft spice emerge as the wine drys the palate.

Conclusion – The 2008 Vielles Vignes Chardonnay, from our friends at Signorello Vineyards, is an exciting and delicious wine that leads off with an intriguing feel. This voluptuous and velvety character delivers flavors in a way that adds to the appeal of the wine – if you can get that far, as the lush aromas were enough to distract our tasting panel for a long while before we even took a first sip! Decant for best results, and we recommend that you drink this wine at just slightly above fridge-temp for best results. Pair with sliced pork with apple chutney and a creamy polenta. Be sure to purchase a few extra bottles of this age-worthy wine for your cellar!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Pierre Birebent

WINE EDUCATION: Upper technician degree in enology and viticulture from Macon, Burgundy ,France

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Costello Vineyard, Stag’s Leap Winery, Kuletto Estate. At Signorello Estate since 1998

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Making easy to drink wine with the potential of agibility.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: the art of grape growing is the first step of winemaking

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: My first vintage was the Signorello ‘98 Chardonnay, ‘98 semillon, but the winery has been producing quality wines since 1985

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Pierre. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 “Vielles Vignes” Estate Chardonnay today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

PIERRE BIREBENT: It is my pleasure

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: Being a 5th generation winemaker, I grew up in the vineyards in southern France. It just came naturally.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

PIERRE: I believe wine should be drunk with food, so my style is to make a food friendly wine , European style, not to overpower the food . We should taste the fruit not the oak.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

PIERRE: I agreed with (owner) Ray Signorello to make a European style wine with California fruit. So we are making the style of wine we both like.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

PIERRE: It comes from our 30 year old estate vineyard, all French oak barrel fermented, undergoing 10 malolactic fermentation, and aged in 28 new oak barrels. The wine has some tropical fruit, minerality with citrus and sweet oak flavor.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

PIERRE: I like This chardonnay with sea food or smoked white meat, or poultry

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valley, and Signorello’s estate vineyard, so special?

PIERRE: Napa Valley is a first class grape growing area, known throughout the world, I am proud to call Napa Valley my home. And, Signorello is an estate vineyard, so we control the entire process ,from the pruning of the vines all the way to bottling. Also our location is unique as we are on a hill with the vineyard facing both side (east and west facing), and the winery on top, all our neighbors are on the flat valley floor. It is a unique location on the eastern side of Silverado Trail.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

PIERRE: Being that it is winter time, we are pruning vines in the vineyard, racking the 2010 vintage and getting ready to blend the 2009’s.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

PIERRE: “Connoisseur” or novice , taste them, you will know if you like them. Drink what you like.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

PIERRE: They are all welcome to stop at the winery to taste the wines and chat with me.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Signorello Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Cline Cellars Big Break Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The Break of the Century

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Cline Cellars (sister winery to Wine Spies’ Operative Favorite, Jacuzzi Family Vineyards) , in Sonoma County’s Carneros region, and return to Wine Spies HQ with one of their superb Zinfandels.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cline Cellars

Wine Subject: 2008 Big Break Zinfandel

Winemaker: Charles (Charlie) Tsegeletos

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is often aptly named California’s grape. Its history and lore and the wines that result are often the makings of legend. In the case of today’s wine, Cline’s winemaker had his pick of the Cline family’s best century-old vines. Contra Costa is technically considered part of California’s Central Coast region and is located east of Oakland and north of Livermore.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby hues, with a clear burgundy core. Color is concentrated, right out the the very edge of the glass. When swirled, the wine exhibits a lilt that gives clues to its medium viscosity. When the wine settles, it leaves behind a steady cascade of chubby, wine-stained tears that move very slowly down the glass.

Smell – Shy at first, but after some hearty swirling, I was rewarded with blackberry, blueberry, plum, ripe strawberry and fresh sage. Beneath these, lie softer aromas of smoked bacon, tarragon, soft earth and brown spice. These are followed by a soft hint of toasty (vanillan) oak.

Feel – Warm and light across the front palate. Then, smooth and velvety across the mid. A lovely crushed velvet feel then encroaches, spreading an easy, mineral-laden dryness around the entire palate. This is driven by the fine-grained and textured tannins of the wine – and supported by the easy acidity of the wine.

Taste – Showing more on the palate than was initially revealed on the nose (on first inhalation), this wine leads with ripe blackberry, black cherry, plum and soft spice. After the wine opens up, and the nose reveals more, the palate seems to come alive, with the initial fruits accentuated – and joined by additional flavors of dark strawberry, raspberry and black pepper. Under these are more subtle flavors of bramble, espresso grounds and dried dark flower petals. The earthiness found on the nose also translates to the palate, delivering a combination that is distinctly old vine.

Finish – Medium-long of length with fruit, spice and other complex flavors that tail off gently, framed by well structured tannins.

Conclusion – We love Old Vine Zinfandel, and what a pleasure it is to bring you this fine example from Cline Cellars. The wine comes from from Contra Costa County, a region that is a somewhat ‘underrepresented’ appellation, here at Wine Spies HQ. A tad shy at first, this wine really comes to life after some time in the decanter. After about 30 minutes in the decanter, or after some hearty swirling, the fruit really begins to emerge, on the nose and palate. Flavors become more ‘authentic’ and aromas, deeper. The wine has a plush feel and, with its bright acidity, it shows an overall balance that makes it at home with a hearty meal. We enjoyed ours with some new Operatives over a home-cooked meal of stewed beef ribs and roasted potato and sweet potato steak fries. Enjoy this wine now, or cellar for up to 5 years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Charlie Tsegeletos

WINE EDUCATION: 30 years of working with winemakers and growers that know what they are doing and what it takes to make good wine. BS Ag Sci and Management and Plant Sci from UCD.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Apprentice Winemaker with tiny Pendleton Winery in San Jose; Assistant Winemaker with family owned Hacienda Winery in Sonoma; Winemaker for historic D’Agostini Winery in Amador County; Senior Director of Winemaking for ground breaking Glen Ellen Winery in Glen Ellen; Winemaker for fun-loving Cline Cellars and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards in Sonoma

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balance is everything. Make big flavorful red wines that have sharp edges and make crisp, fresh white wines that tantalize.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Put ten of your favorite wines in a brown paper bags and taste them blind with your friends. I think you’ll like our wines.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1981 Pendleton Monterey Chardonnay released in early ’82.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Charlie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Big Break Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

CHARLIE: Thanks for having me on.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

CHARLIE: A bottle of 1974 Charles Krug Reserve Cab spun my head around and I wanted to have a go at making something like that.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CHARLIE: I’ve had a chance to work with a lot of winemakers over the years and each has his “special” winemaking secrets and some of them even work. Joel Aiken who had been the Beaulieu Vineyards winemaker for years once asked me what my wine stood for and that really made me think that each wine I make should stand for something – in other words it should have it’s own signature and not just taste like something else in the lineup.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

CHARLIE: I make it according to my sense of balance and that seems to work out okay for the consumers, sales folks and reviewers. I do listen to what folks say about the wine and then try and refine the wine each vintage.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

CHARLIE: We make seven different Zins at Cline – and this is often my favorite. Big Break Zin is make from vines planted around 1904, head- trained, grown in sandy soil near a Eucalyptus grove and it is a spicy, berry, minty wonder. We only make a bit over 1,000 cases but I think you’ll like it.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

CHARLIE: Homemade Pizza – the more flavorful the better.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Contra Costa region so special?

CHARLIE: Hot in the day, cool in the night with DEEP SANDY soil – I have never seen anything like the dirt our grapes are planted in in Oakley. It is sand deposited over thousands of years from the two big rivers. Sand limits the water and nutrients so the vine struggles and doesn’t produce a lot of vegetation – the grapes develop great flavor intensity.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CHARLIE: We have just finished getting the ’10 vintage on oak and we are getting ready to bottle the Rose. I’m heading for Chicago today for a week to talk about wine.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

CHARLIE: Pour it, ponder it and drink it. You’ll know if you like it and if my sense of balance works for you too.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

CHARLIE: Don’t take it too seriously – remember it started out as a grape.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Cline Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Flora Springs Poggio Del Papa ‘Super Tuscan’

Mission Codename: Vinea crepidinem montis Papa

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Flora Springs Winery, a picturesque winery set at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains in St. Helena, in the Napa Valley’s northern end. Procure a limited-production winery-only wine for our exacting Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Poggio Del Papa Napa Valley Red Wine

Winemaker: Paul Steinauer

Backgrounder: Red blends are a favorite of many a Wine Spies Operative. Perhaps this is because a great blend is like a great All-star sports team, where the coach gets to choose the best players. In the case of today’s wine, Flora Springs’ winemaker, Paul Steinauer, was able to hand-select grapes (78% Sangiovese, 13% Merlot, 6% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot) from the winery’s own Cypress Ranch estate vineyard in the Pope Valley, to craft a Supertuscan blend that rivals the best Italian blends. Today’s 2007 Poggio Del Papa a great example of how a fantastic wine can be born of great blending – from the best vineyard sources.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Ultra-deep ruby hues, with solid color through the darker core of the wine. Concentrated of color, out to its edges, a fine edge of light ruby rings the glass. Swirl the wine, and marvel at the color-stained legs that move slowly down the glass, giving clues to the texture of the wine.

Smell – Bold and aromatic, the wine bursts with an initial rush of black cherry, blackberry and a delightful smoky orange-spice. These sit just above plum, brown spice, crushed dried violets, cedar and a subtle hint cigar ash.

Feel – Medium weight across the entry, then the wine seems to hover across the mid-palate. At the rear, the wine becomes softly grippy. Plush tannins go to work, spreading this dryness all around the palate, introducing a delightful peppery feel as it gradually drys lips, cheeks and tongue.

Taste – Delicious and complex, balanced black stonefruit and black cherry play with dark red cherry, smoky unsweetened cranberry, dried dark flower petals, ripe blackberry, unsweetened black licorice and bramble. Just below these, plum, spice and warm pepper emerge – as the crushed velvet dryness spreads throughout the palate.

Finish – Dark, long and lingering, with black and red fruit that gently yield to spice, oak and pepper that show up as flavors gradually fade away.

Conclusion – This wine is as delicious as it is intriguing, beguiling and just plain fun to drink. While the wine possesses weight and complexity, it is also filled with balanced flavors. These run the gamut, from dark and rich, to bright and cheerful. This wine really does rival a great Supertuscan blend and our tasting panel found itself sipping and discussing the finer points of the wine for hours – during which grilled pizzas with Gorgonzola, arugula and prosciutto were also enjoyed. The acidity and balanced flavors of the wine helped to accentuate the hearty pizzas. This wine gets my hearty recommendation!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Paul Steinauer

WINE EDUCATION: Finance/Marketing – University of Oregon, Winemaking UC Davis ext.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Production Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Assistant Winemaker Flora Springs, and Winemaker Flora Springs.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: When you are dealing with premium grapes, it’s really made in the vineyard. You just allow the wine to evolve and work at maintaining the characteristics of the terroir.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: There is nothing quite like enjoying the fruits of your labor with friends and family.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: I guess since taking over the head winemaking position in ’08, it would have been June, ’08.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Paul. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Poggio Del Papa today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

PAUL STEINAUER: You are more than welcome, I’m glad to participate.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

PAUL: It may have started before I was even aware of it. I guess when I was a small child, my family would gather around the dinner table and my grandmother would give me a thimble full of wine – Evidently, I would taste it and say “dood wine” which meant “good wine”. I just remember wine being an important part of family gatherings, and when I was older, I could actually have a real glass – and really learned to appreciate it.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

PAUL: Long before I started at Flora Springs or even thought I would ever be in the wine business for that matter – I was attending the University of Oregon. When I returned to school after summer break, I would bring quite a lot of wine from St. Helena back up to school. One evening I was just doing some homework in my apartment and decided to crack open a random bottle. I happened to grab a bottle of ’82 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet. I had had a lot of great Bordeaux’s and other great California cabernets, but that wine, that night was just really memorable, so much so, that I wrote it down in a journal – Big, rich, lush etc…It was just unfortunate that there was nobody else there to enjoy it with. After I finished school, and started working at Flora Springs, I realized that I did not have to go too far to find what I had remembered from that random bottle doing my homework – The big, rich, lush, aromatic, fruit forward wines were here to be made. Since the family is one of the largest vineyard owners in Napa County, I get to select the best blocks most suitable for this style of wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

PAUL: I have the luxury of working for a dedicated family owned and operated winery. That being said, the family motto has always been “Let’s make wines that we enjoy drinking ourselves, and hope others will agree” Well, that premise has worked for over 30 years now. We still enjoy them, and since we sell 50K cases per year, I guess others must enjoy them as well.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

PAUL: The 2007 Poggio Del Pappa “Which translated – means “The Popes Hillside” is a blend of four varietals. It is comprised of 78% Sangiovese, 13% Merlot, 6% Malbec, and 3% Petite Verdot. The Sangiovese is from a hillside vineyard on our Cypress Ranch property in Pope Valley – It brings that big, bright fruit that Sangiovese can be known for. It is then married with Merlot, Malbec and Petite Verdot from our Rutherford and Oakville vineyards – bringing that rich, dark fruit character to the blend. It is then aged in French oak for 15 months.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

PAUL: For our company Christmas party last month, we had both ham and lobster – (Quite a combo I know) At any rate, When asked what wine we should serve, the first thing that came to my mind was the Poggio. I have to tell you, it worked quite well. Beyond that unusual pairing however; I think it goes well with any of your pasta dishes, and meat dishes. I think it’s really one of the most versatile red wines, and very food friendly.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Pope Valley so special?

PAUL: The majority of the blend is Sangiovese, and it hails from Pope Valley – (Hence, the name Pappa or Pope as a play on words) The Pope Valley district’s growing season can be dramatic with periods of very cold nights and very warm days. However, the mild breezes that rush down the face of the Palisade mountain range temper the extremities of temperature, helping this region produce some incredible wines.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

PAUL: Right now, we are assembling our 2009 Sangiovese blend to bottle in February. We are also making some preliminary 2010 blends of our Bordeaux varieties. We are also working with the vineyard team to determine – based on the past harvest, what protocols, and strategies if any – might be implemented going into the 2011 growing season. We have had some back to back to back unusual harvests from a climate perspective here in the Napa Valley, so we don’t use the terms “normal harvest” … much any more. In addition, and on an ongoing basis – the normal cellar activities – racking, topping barrels etc….

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

PAUL: I would say first and foremost, that you should never let anyone else tell you what you are supposed to like. Unfortunately, wine in some circles, has become an intimidating subject. At the end of the day however, you are the only one that should determine your likes and dislikes.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

PAUL: The day I was hired at Flora Springs – John Komes (The owner) was showing me around the winery, as the tour ended, he stopped, looked me straight in the eyes and said “If I don’t look like I’m having fun in this business, promise you will let me know so I can find something else to do.” After that, I knew I had landed in a special place, and I’m happy to report that that was over 20 years ago, and John and I are still having fun doing what we love.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Flora Spring Winery & Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Maison Bouachon La Tiare du Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Mission Codename: Crown of Flowers

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of a value oriented Châteauneuf-du-Pape for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maison Bouachon

Wine Subject: 2005 La Tiare du Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Winemaker: Christian Abry

Backgrounder:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) is among this spy’s favorite Rhone wines. With each wine being a distinct blend of up to 13 different varietals (usually lead off with Grenache, France’s work-horse grape, with the trend leading to more Syrah and Mourvedre based blends). The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape dates back to the 14th century during the time of the dual papacy.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes in two distinct styles, the more traditional ’Old World’ (like this one) are dark, rich and spicy with firm tannins that lend these wines to cellaring; and the more contemporary fruit-forward style more reminiscent of New World wines.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby red and garnet hued with a dark core and garnet pinkish edges. Slow fat legs cling to the edge of the glass when swirled.

Smell – A classic CDP bouquet of ripe red cherry, raspberry, ripe blackberry and plum backed by old-world cocoa, a touch of toasted oak, floral lavender, exotic spices and cigar tobacco.

Feel – An initially tangy attack that smooths as it breathes, this full-bodied wine has fine tightly woven tannins, good acidity and a dry mineral quality.

Taste – This wine is well developed with complex and integrated flavors of red cherry, raspberry, pomegranate with earthy notes indicative of its Terroir, a touch of toasted oak and some baking spice to round out the palate.

Finish – Long, dry and lingering, with clean flavors of red fruit, oak and its rich earthy components.

Conclusion – Anyone who has followed some of our French selections knows that I love Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They are rich, complex and each shows its own unique character. This CDP is a great example at at the price is an exceptional value. If you haven’t yet tried CDP, this is one to begin your journey. If you are a fan of CDP, then stock up on this one.

Mission Report:

It was a day of marathon tastings in the southern Rhone. Agent Terroir suggested that we enjoy thee rest of the afternoon in Marseille. It was just a short drive from Avignon. Terroir suggested that we find a cafe near the Vieux Port to see the big yachts, enjoy the sun fade into the Mediterranean and perhaps one more glass of wine, this time, not spitting…

We settled in and just as the garcon arrived to take our order, my communicator buzzed with an incoming PIN message:

LFML @ 1845 CARGO RWY 13 P.U. AR

Let me translate… Be at the Marseille Airport at 6:45 PM to pick up Agent Red at the cargo facility at the end of runway 13. Problem was that it was 6:45 and I was sitting at the port, while my plane was arriving. I apologized to Terroir and hired a cab to take me to the airport. As I arrived, I could tell Red was frustrated for having to wait for me to pick him up. Excuses wouldn’t do. Even if it was OPS fault for the late message.

He had an overnight bag and a dossier in had. Handing me both, he said lets get started, I don’t have time to waste. Red was anxious, but unfamiliar with the French way. His planned tasting would have to wait until the morning. Jumping in the car I said where to? “Back to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I know you where just there but look at this”, as he handed me the dossier.

As I skimmed the file, Red told me about the St. Supery and their French counterparts – and how they were committed to the perpetuation of wine making tradition and that we needed to gather some intel on the negociant Maison Bouachon.

Maison Bouachon had quite a history dating back over 100 years as one of the best barrel makers in the region. More recently, Maison Bouachon was quickly becoming known for making great wines including from the Rhone including Vacqueyras and Saint-Joseph. But it was the Châteauneuf-du-Pape that was the flagship.

By the time we arrived in the village it was late and thankfully Red was fading. I don’t think I could do another tasting after the marathon tasting from earlier in the day. This would give me some time to review the dossier and make the arrangements for the morning. I called Agent Terroir and he said he could arrange for a meeting with Christian Abry, Maison Bouachon’s winemaker. He also told me about the great tradition of the family. Needless to say, I was getting excited to taste the wine.

After a quick cup of coffee we headed out to Maison Bouachon. Once we arrived, we reviewed the vineyards and then headed to the back of the house, where on the top of an artisan barrel was an arrangements of gardenias and a bottle of the La Tiare du Pape and a few glasses. This translates to the ’Crown of the Pope’ (Tiare is also the flower of the south pacific gardenia). With nobody in site but the farm hands tending the vines, I popped open the bottle and poured a glass for Red and myself. The puzzled look on his face said it all, as did my response…

”Accueillir en France, apprécier le vin!”

And enjoy we did!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maison Bouachon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be seen in this satellite photo.

GRILLED FLANK STEAK WITH ROASTED GARLIC AIOLI

2006 Crinella Winery & Vineyards Family Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: We’re not in Burgundy?

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Crinella Vineyards, a Russian River gem whose reportedly perfect Pinot Noir is crafted from Estate fruit, by esteemed winemaker, Rod Berglund. If the wine is as impressive as its reputation indicates, secure an ample allotment for our Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Crinella Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Rod Berglund

Backgrounder: Today’s wine is made by the prolific prince of Pinot Noir, Rod Berglund (of Joseph Swan Vineyards), from Crinella’s Estate vineyards, in the Green Valley Appellation of the Russian River Valley.

The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes, and winemaker interview, below for the full intel on this exciting wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Perfect clarity through hues of deep garnet. At the core of the wine, a slightly darker garnet is seen. When spun in the glass, the thin edges of the wine take on a gently brickish hue. When the wine settles, skinny, wine-stained tears take a long time to appear, before crawling very slowly down the wall of the glass.

Smell – Earthen and plush, with soft cherry leading the way. Just below, more Burgundian aromatics of orchard fruit, subtle brown spice, subtle crushed dried flower petals and hints of toasty oak and flinty minerals.

Feel – Smooth and dry on the attack, with a solid weight and a big mid-palate plushness. A lively acidity and flinty minerality are balanced against a nice spice that accumulates at the tip of the tongue as flavors fade.

Taste – Like a French Burgundy, this wine holds its fruit in quiet restraint, while more earthen flavors sing out. Dried dark stonefruit mingles with a soft nuttiness, spice and a distinct flint. Under these, touches of forest floor, salty licorice and soft oak make a subtle appearance. Note: We revisited the wine after decanting for several hours – and found far more fruit and flavor in the wine.

Finish – Clean and crisp, with lingering flavors that are supported by bright acidity and dried stonefruits, that yield to earthy flavors, minerals and tongue-tip spice.

Conclusion – This is a wine that defied my expectations. And in a good way! My palate is trained to expect a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir to taste, smell and even behave a certain way; Great examples of RRV Pinot just have that certain RRV-ness to them. And so it is that I opened this wine, expecting one thing – but then getting something completely different. If I blind tasted this complex and wonderful wine, I would have guessed that it was a French Burgundy! Complex, weighty and beguiling, this wine had us sipping and swirling and sniffing for longer than usual, taking in every nuance present in its myriad layers. Expect something different when you order this intriguing wine! Decant for best results.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Ramona Crinella

WINE EDUCATION: I drank my first great wine when i was four years old and continued my wine education where ever I could, on the beaches of the Russian River, in my father’s wine cellar, at Fiori’s Pub, at the Oak Room of the Plaza and the great restaurants of Paris and Cannes. I attempted to finish my education by drinking a glass of wine at every bar on Bourbon Street, a project, alas, I had to leave unfinished. I learned from my education that the better the wine I drank, the better I felt the next day.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: I accidentally planted our Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard in 1999 and then got the bright idea to make wine and got my brother, Frank Crinella, to go along with it. People said I was doing something really stupid. Our first release, Crinella 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, won a silver medal at the Sonoma County Harvests Fair. People then said maybe it was not quite so stupid.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: It is pretty simple. Grow the best grapes possible in our vineyards and then make the best wine possible from our grapes.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: _” There is no occasion that is not improved by a glass of nice wine.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: September 2004, Crinella Sauvignon Blanc.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Ramona. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Estate Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RAMONA CRINELLA: Thank you. I am very glad to be here today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RAMONA: My father appreciated good wine and we learned about it from him. We often visited the Crinella family in Saint Helena and played in the vineyards of Charles Krug which was owned by our friends, the Mondavi family.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RAMONA: Our style was influenced by many of the great wines we were allowed to taste as children.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RAMONA: We make our wines for ourselves. We hope people will like them but whenever my brother and I taste one of our wines we look at each other and say, ” If nobody likes this wine, we don’t care, we will drink it all ourselves.”

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RAMONA: This 2006 Pinot Noir was grown in Crinella Estate Vineyard in Forestville which we planted in 2002. We analyzed every area of the land and planted seven different Pinot Noir clones, each one selected for that particular microclimate. We had guys looking at the soil horizon twenty feet down, we looked at the heat generated in different spots, and the amount of moisture available and then planted. This wine was made in the Burgundian style by Rod Berglund who owns Joseph Swan Winery.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RAMONA: With this wine, I like pasta, cheese, lamb, duck, geese, beef and chocolate.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Green Valley AVA so special?

RAMONA: The Russian River Valley and Green Valley where Crinella Estate Vineyard is planted has superb soil and climate for growing Pinot grapes, hot sunny days followed by cool foggy nights. It does not get better than that area.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RAMONA: We are opening a tasting room in downtown Forestville. It will offer our customers a unique wine experience.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RAMONA: Our wines are basically food wines, we like people to enjoy food with them and the whole social experience. I am never happier than when I am looking down a table with food, wine, friends and family.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RAMONA: We invite everyone to stop by and visit us. We love to give people a pair of pruning shears and teach them how to take care of the vines. Then, we sit under one of the old oak trees and have a glass of wine.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the WINERY can be seen in this satellite photo.