2007 Chateau St. Jean Benoist Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Agent White’s Top Selection

Mission Codename: For the love of Parker

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Sonoma County legend, Chateau St. Jean. Direct him to infiltrate the winery, and procure their best single vineyard Pinot Noir for our demanding Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Chateau St. Jean

Wine Subject: 2007 Benoist Ranch Pinot Noir – Sonoma Coast

Winemaker: Margo Van Staaveren

Backgrounder: Our Operatives loved the last Chateau St. Jean wine that we featured, and so we have been keeping the winery under close surveillance – waiting for our chance to spring upon a fantastic single vineyard Pinot Noir. Today’s selection was chosen by Robert Parker as the best of the 2007 Pinot’s that he tasted at the winery. We love it, too.

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the 750 square mile area with the Pacific ocean on its western boundary, the San Pablo Bay to the south and Mendocino County to the north, headed inland to the other designated AVAs in Sonoma County. The region is heavily influenced by the cooler ocean climate, increased rainfall and fog that lingers long on the coastal mountains. The specific climate suits the demanding Burgundian varietal of Pinot Noir very well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet with fine ruby highlights. Perfect clarity through its slightly darkening heart. Swirl the wine, and witness a cascade of wine-stained tears that form quickly before they run down the edges of the glass.

Smell – Bold perfume of Bing cherry, black cherry, red plum and earthen redwood bark. These are accompanied by soft oaky notes and hints of gunpowder, pepper and clove.

Feel – Velvet smooth across the entry, then voluptuous and round at the mid-palate. As the wine fills out the mouth, coating with flavors as it evolves, a soft flinty minerality is revealed. Then, soft and supple tannins add a hint of uniform dryness.

Taste – Ripe red cherry and dusty blackberry at first, then dark cranberry, ripe raspberry and black plum skin. Earth and dusty notes add a beautiful backing. After a moment, subtle cocoa powder, soft black pepper and a hint of braised fig appear.

Finish – Very long and flavor-filled, the finish leads with smoky red fruit and then reveals pepper, spice, minerals, dried red flower petals and cocoa as it slowly fades.

Conclusion – This is a delicious, terroir-driven Pinot Noir that really excited us with its easy and elegant balance. The nose is bold and inviting and the flavors of the wine are authentic and pure Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. With dark fruit and and earthy backbone, this is a terrific Pinot to simply sip and discuss at length – which is exactly what our tasting panel did. The fine feel of the wine, combined with its bright acidity, make it an easy food companion as well. Enjoy with a garlic prime rib, or a spicy grilled chicken!

Mission Report:

In order to learn everything that we could about today’s winery, I was sent in undercover. This time, my job was easy. Posing as a tourist, I took advantage of a handful of the excellent tours and educational opportunities that the winery has to offer.

Not only were these programs fascinating – even for a crusty Wine Spy like myself – but the winery itself is a gorgeous delight. Delightful, too are the people of Chateau St. Jean. In all, I learned a great deal more than I thought I would, and I had a great time doing it as well.

What follows is a list of the wonderful opportunities that exist for Operatives like you. The general public is, of course, invited as well:

Wine Education – Consumer Offerings

The Wine Education Program is an innovative addition to our offerings at the winery. Destined for anyone from the novice to the connoisseur, the program offers courses ranging from an introduction to the basic tools and techniques of wine appreciation to the interactive dynamics of balancing food and wine.

Terroir & History Tour

Terroir is French for “sense of place” or a vineyard’s unique combination of climate, soil and growing conditions that will determine a grape’s flavor and intensity. Chateau St. Jean is a pioneer in vineyard designation in Sonoma County; we make “wines of terroir”. Enjoy a guided tour of our stunning estate with an educated host.

Complimentary. Offered Daily at 11am & 2pm. Duration 1/2 hour.

Private VIP Reserve Wine Tasting

In a majestic setting, we will lead you through a professional tasting of our very best wines presented in fine Riedel glassware. The rich history and winemaking tradition at Chateau St. Jean will be shared as well as savory bites to complement our finest Sonoma County wines.

$25.00 per person. Appointments at 10:30, 1:00 or 3:00. Duration 1 hour.

Cinq Cépages Blending Seminar

Taste each component of our “flagship” wine before taking on the challenge of blending this prestigious wine from using all five Bordeaux varietals. This great team building exercise is sure to be a memorable experience for all participants wanting to be “Winemaker for a day!”

$75.00 per person. Eight person minimum. Duration 2 hours.

Box Lunch Program

Your guests will be greeted with a taste of our Pinot Blanc in the beautiful Mediterranean gardens and will enjoy a guided historical & terroir tour. You will then be escorted to a shady patio for a private reserve wine tasting followed by a picnic box lunch with assorted Sonoma County wines.

$50.00 per person. By appointment, 10 guest minimum. Duration 2 hours.

Cinq Cépages Component Tasting

“Cinq Cépages” stands for Five Varieties. You will taste each component of this iconic wine and you will find out what each one of these Bordeaux varieties bring to the final blend. An extensive reserve tasting of our finest wines will conclude this fun and informative exercise.

$25.00 per person. Eight person minimum. Duration 1 1/2 hours.

Call: (707) 833-4134 ext. 5258 to make an appointment.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Chateau St. Jean winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 von Strasser Winery Marcellini Franc

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Operative’s Choice: Top Cab Franc

Mission Codename: Five Diamond

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate and procure a Diamond District Cabernet Franc that embodies the best that the unique region has to offer

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: von Strasser Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Marcellini Vineyard Cabernet Franc – Diamond Mountain District

Winemaker: Rudy von Strasser

Backgrounder: Best known for its exceptional Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, von Strasser Winery in Napa Valley’s scenic Calistoga, is a Wine Spies favorite!
Today we are proud to feature their extraordinary 2006 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Franc made from 24 year old vines from the fabled Marcellini Vineyard.

The Diamond Mountain District AVA (American Viticultural Area) sits at the northern most tip of the Napa Valley, in the Mayacamas Mountains. The higher elevation of the region sees more didrect sunlight and less cooling that the rest of the valley, leading to the production of some of the most concentrated and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon in the entire Napa Valley.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark plum skin with perfect clarity through its darkening heart. At the edge of the wine a fine rim of ruby red rings the glass. When the wine settles – after a good swirl – tight clusters of skinny legs take a long time to emerge, before they streak down the glass.

Smell – Layers of aromas rush to greet you, leading off with earthen sage, then bramble, blackberry, pencil shavings, plum and darkest black cherry.

Feel – Light and cool on the initial attack, then softly grippy as integrated tannins very slowly grip in, eventually leading to an around-the-mouth dryness – with a hint of minerality.

Taste – Tart black plum, overripe blackberry, cassis, tart dried cranberry and leather are followed by more subtle flavors of tobacco leaf, soft sweetwoods, minerals, soft dark spice and dusty bramble.

Finish – Very long and clean, with flavors that evolve in your mouth before they gradually tail off. Soft spice and dark minerals at the very end, with a hint of just-burnt candied fig.

Conclusion – For me, Cabernet Franc plus von Strasser plus Diamond Mountain = Perfection. Of all red wine varietals, I enjoy beautifully done Cab Franc best of all, and Rudy von Strasser really delivers with his 2006 Marcinelli Vineyard Cabernet Franc. Elegant, delicious, long on flavors and big aromatics, this wine presents everything in great balance. If you shy away from the sometimes vegital character on Cab Franc, be assured that you won’t find it in this wine. There are high notes of tart fruit, and some sage, but none of the bell pepper that some people shy away from. With its bright acidity,this cab franc is a great companion to most foods. We paired ours with shredded pork tacos and hot salsa. This Franc was a refreshing compliment to a challenging meal. Thank you, Rudy, for another wine… perfectly done!

Mission Report:

While my life is almost completely consumed with wine, I do have other interests. One of them is treasure hunting.

I am constantly receiving intel for my assets around the wine industry – and sometimes that intel has noting to do with wine.

Recently, I received a report that the world famous Diamond District, in the norther tip of the Napa Valley, was so named because a cache of stolen diamonds was buried high up in the Mayacams mountains, among some of the fines Cabernet grapes known to humankind.

This report included clues to the specific whereabouts of the diamonds, valued at an estimated $5 million. My source provided a map, general coordinates and a few old photographs from the 1920’s. I agreed to a 50/50 split and set of to Napa.

Once up in the Mayacamas, a gorgeous vine-covered region at the northern tip of the Napa Valley. Juggling the old photos and my portable GPS, I managed to make my way what was almost certainly the right vicinity.

[beep.boop.beep beep.boop.beep]

An open wine glass? Up here? My Wine Spies PDA is never wrong, and that alert was difficult to believe. Utilizing the PDA’s direction finder, I made my way toward the wine. I made my way down a vineyard row, turned a corner – and witnessed a remarkable sight: A small table with a white tablecloth with a single glass of wine atop it!

I approached the table and saw that its surface was strewn with… with… loose diamonds! My heart raced. Ignoring the note card that sat next to the wine glass, I grabbed a diamond and examined it with my jewelers loop. My heart sank. These were no diamonds. Instead, just fakes.

I stood there for a moment, stunned. Eventually, I snapped out of it and reached for the card. It read, “Agent Red. My apologies for the subterfuge. To make it up to you, I have arranged a special allocation of a very special wine for you. Sincerely, [CENSORED] – von Strasser Winery.”

This note was significant and I felt instantly better. I had been trying to infiltrate the von Strasser Winery for months. Their wines, particularly their Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, is the stuff of legend.

I grabbed up the glass, inhaled deeply, and took a sip. Heavenly.

Then, my phone rang.

“Agent Red. [REDACTED] here, from von Strasser….”

The rest is obvious, dear Operative, for today you have a unique opportunity to sample one of the best Cabs from one of the best regions – by one of Napa Valley’s best wineries.

Diamonds? Who needs diamonds, when you have a wine this good?

Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The gorgeous location of the steeply sloping von Strasser vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

Average Wine Spy Points: 80/100

2007 Raymond Burr Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Agent Blush’s Top Selection

Mission Codename: The Orchid

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Raymond Burr winery, to retrieve their stellar 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon – before any other wine trading organization gets their hands on it!

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Raymond Burr Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Phyllis Zouzounis

Backgrounder: Our Operatives are huge fans of Raymond Burr wines. We have had the great fortune to have featured several successive vintages of their flagship wine, their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Where prior vintages have been Cab blends, today’s wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Where previous vintages have impressed us, today’s wine blows us away!

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark cherry-red with clarity through its slightly darker heart. The wine holds its color, right out the the very edge of the glass, where a fine line of pink lines the rim.

Smell – Fragrant and lush, with an initial rush of red flowers. This is followed by black cherry, blackberry, blueberry, dusty bramble, semi-sweet chocolate and soft cinnamon.

Feel – Smooth and light-weight on entry, then a soft and easy dryness slowly emerges, drying the cheeks, lips and mid-palate with a tasty mineral-fruitiness.

Taste -Delicious red and black fruit, leading with prominent earthy cherry, blackberry and dusky blueberry. After the dryness is introduced, additional flavors of slate, cassis and raspberry emerge, followed by evolving chocolate and soft cinnamon.

Finish -As noted in the Feel and Taste sections, above, this wine absolutely and deliciously evolves on the palate. The wine starts fruity and flavor-filled, then additional flavors emerge, along with minerals and spice, leading to a long, slow and dynamic finish

Conclusion – In a word, Delightful!. Ready to drink, right now, I can’t help but marvel at how great the wine will drink over the next several years. Our tasting panel was very impressed with this wine, even though we had already-high expectations. We loved the aromatics and flavors, and had a great time with the dynamic progression that the wine presented on the palate. The fact that the flavors and the feel evolved while the wine was in our mouths – and after – was a fun addition to an already terrific wine. Enjoy now, or cellar for several more years.

Mission Report:

Now that we are great friends with the folks at Raymond Burr Vineyards, additional surveillance or infiltration is not necessary. Now that they have been recruited into The Wine Spies Network, we can just return to them to ask for wine.

No new mission report today, so please read below for a recap of our initial mission to Raymond Burr Vineyards.

Please note that we enjoyed today’s featured Cabernet Sauvignon even more than the Cabernet Franc that we mention below:

Prior Mission Recap:

Ask anyone to describe Raymond Burr in a single word and, resoundingly, you will likely hear, Classy.

The veteran actor, for whom today’s winery was honorarily named, was also a cultivator of orchids, a war hero, a philanthropist and more. Most of all, he was cherished and loved by his close friends, who say that his warmth, humor and compassion made him a remarkable man.

When I was given the mission – finally – to seek out a new Cabernet Franc, I riffled through my mental Rolodex and recalled hearing great things about a Cab Franc from Raymond Burr Winery. In fact, it was in the most unusual way that I had come to hear of the wine in the first place.

On returning from a mission to Latin America, our flight got in to Miami too late to make our connecting flight back to California. the airline put us up in a swanky hotel and the next morning we found ourselves in a shuttle back to the Airport. I struck up a conversation with a young couple who were also on our inbound flight and, as always, I steered the conversation toward wine. We compared tastes in varietals and found that Cab Franc wines were among our very favorites. We traded recommendations and they assured me that Raymond Burr had a wine that I would be sure to love.

Now that I was finally assigned a Cab Franc mission I knew just where to go, so I called proprietor and long time companion to Mr. Burr, Robert Benevides. I used the direct approach and told him that I was very interested in sampling his wine and, if they passed the test, feature his Cabernet Franc here for our Operatives to enjoy.

I enjoyed this exceptional wine more with each sip. With enough time to stretch out in the air, the wine really opens up and loses the rough edges present on opening. For best results, decant the wine for a few hours – and enjoy at cellar temperature.

Aromas, flavors, acid and mouth-feel are all in harmony here and the finish is really very unique. If you love great Cabernet Franc, look no further Operative, its right here.

Finally, I remember hearing a story about Mr. Burr that sums up his life and his wines: While working with Errol Flynn, Flynn told Mr. Burr that if he died with ten dollars in his pocket he hadn’t done a good job. This inspired Mr. Burr to always share his wealth with all. His legacy lives on in today’s wine from Mr. Burr’s namesake winery.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Raymond Burr Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

2005 Chateau Gombaude-Guillot Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Operative’s Choice: Top French Selection

Mission Codename: Esprit De Corps

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Provide Agent White with a respite from securing French wines and allow Agent Red the opportunity to procure an exceptional food-friendly French blend for our Francophile Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Château Gombaude-Guillot

Wine Subject: 2005 Cadet De Gombaude AOC Pomerol

Winemaker: Mme Laval

Backgrounder: Located near Bordeaux, Pomerol is a commune in the Gironde department in Aquitaine, in south-western France. This area, which occupies less than 3 square miles in total, is home to small producers of primarily Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Some Cabernet Sauvignon is also grown here.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest ruby red with color that maintains deep concentration, right out to the edges of the wine. When swirled, the wine has a softly lofty surface that bounces around before it settles. When the wine does settle, skinny, wine-stained tears move swiftly down the glass.

Smell – This wine is shy on opening, but after a few minutes of decanting aromas emerge – and then emerge more. The wine leads with sweet ripe blackberry, cherry, leather, anise and earthy bramble. After some swirling, candied black cherry, dried fall leaves, subtle roast beef and a hint of tomato stem emerge.

Feel – Cool and light on the initial attack, then the wine reveals fine tannins and a softly grippy medium body, with a distinct black pepper-minerality. After a moment in the mouth, the pepper character spreads a sharp but pleasant warmth across the palate.

Taste – Juicy but elegant, lead by earthen black cherry, blackberry, bramble, soft anise, flint and sharp black pepper.

Finish – Very long and flavor filled, leading with dark fruit that tails off to soft earthy notes and the sharp black pepper from the palate.

Conclusion – Our tasting panel was very impressed with this wine. A tad shy at first, this wine really came to life with some time in the decanter. A hearty swirling in the glass could also help to coax this wine to life. When it does emerge, the rewards are great; The aromas and flavors are fantastic, authentic and very pleasing. With perfect balance and acidity, this wine really lends itself to easy pairing. I enjoyed the wine with a grilled Reuben sandwich, which is a pairing that might challenge most wines. It was perfection, and I give this lovingly handmade wine a very solid recommendation.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Château Gombaude-Guillot Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol 2005

WINE EDUCATION:
(Votre formation dans le vin)
J’ai au départ une formation d’ingénieur agronome qui m’a donné des bases scientifiques solides. J’ai suivi en complément un cycle de formation à l’Institut d’oenologie de Bordeaux. Mais j’ai surtout appris “sur le tas”, en vifiant, d’abord avec mon pèr,e puis seule.

I first studied agricultural engineering, which provided me with a solid scientific background. I then completed training at the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology. But most of all I learned “on the job,” while making wine, first with my father and then on my own.

WINE JOB BRIEF:
(Votre position – c’est à dire tous vos rôles)
Je gère l’entreprise dans son ensemble avec le conseil avisé de mon mari. Je suis responsable de la vinification et de la commercialisation alors que lui s’occupe plutôt de la viticulture. Mais bien sûr nous échangeons beaucoup sur tout.

I manage the entire business with my husband’s help. I am responsible for the vinification and marketing side of things while he more or less handles the grape growing. But of course we collaborate on everything.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY:
(Votre philosophie de vinification)

Je vinifie chaque cuve en fonction de ses caractéristiques propres, le plus naturellement possible, en cherchant à exprimer au mieux l’identité de terroir de chacune

I make each wine according to its inherent traits, as naturally as possible, allowing each wine to best express its terroir.

WINEMAKER QUOTE:
(Une citation de vous)
chaque millésime est comme un enfant qu’on élève en s’attachant à l’aider à exprimer au mieux ses qualités propres

Every vintage is like a child that one raises to best express his or her own qualities.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE:(Date de la première commercialisation de votre vin)

La première commercialisation du Cadet date de mai 1994

The Cadet de Gombaude was first sold in May, 1994.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mme Laval. We are thrilled to be showing your Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol 2005 today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

Bonjour Mme Laval. Nous sommes ravis de présenter votre Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol 2005 aujourd’hui. Merci d’avoir pris le temps de répondre à nos questions.

WINEMAKER: Je vous remercie vivement de l’intérêt que vous manifestez pour mon travail

Thank you very much for the interest you show in my work.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?
Est-ce qu’il y avait une expérience en particulier qui a inspiré votre amour du vin ?

WINEMAKER: Je suis née dans une famille où les jours de fête, les occasions de se retrouver, étaient ponctuées de bons repas où les adultes goûtaient de bons vins et où les enfants bénéficiait d’une pêche au vin (une pêche de vigne coupée en morceau avec une touche de sucre et 2 gouttes de vin vieux (un accord parfait délicieux).

I was born into a family where holiday gatherings were marked by good meals during which the adults drank good wines and the children enjoyed a pêche au vin (a pêche de vigne [an heirloom type of peach that was planted at the end of each row of grapevines as an early indicator of disease] cut into pieces with a touch of sugar and 2 drops of old wine – a delicious combination).

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?
Quel vin ou quel(le) vigneron(ne) a surtout eu de l’influence sur votre style de vinification ?

WINEMAKER: Il m’est arrivé de goûter Pétrus. Et tant de fraîcheur, de légèreté associé à une telle intensité m’a impressionnée.

I have tasted Petrus. Such freshness, such lightness in a wine of such intensity made quite an impression on me.

RED: Who do you make wine for?
Pour qui faîtes-vous le vin ?

WINEMAKER: Pour mes clients, qui apprécient son caractère inimitable

For my customers, who appreciate its unique character.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.
Veuillez svp nous expliquez le vin que nous présentons aujourd’hui un peu.

WINEMAKER: C’est un vin encore très jeune, plein de fruit . Sa caractéristique c’est son équilibre : on ne sent pas l’alcool, parfaitement équilibré par de très beaux tanins enrobés de fruit. C’est un vin qui développe son ampleur sur la longueur. Il va croissant. Au fur et à mesure de la dégustation, il va s’oxygéner, développer son bouquet et ce sont les éléments de ce bouquet et leur corolaire en bouche qui vont permettre les accords avec les mets (les belles viandes en particulier). Cette complexité s’épanouit tout en finesse : pas de saturation, le vin est très digeste et laisse la bouche fraîche

This is still a young wine, and very fruity. Its notable characteristic is its balance: one doesn’t smell the alcohol, which is perfectly balanced by lovely tannins enveloped in fruit. This is a wine that develops its fullness over time; it rises to greater heights. The wine will oxygenate and develop its bouquet as you’re tasting it, and it is the qualities of that bouquet on the palate which open up possible food pairings (especially high-quality meats). This complexity makes for a wine of great finesse : there is no heaviness in the mouth; rather the wine is light and easy to drink.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?
Quel est votre plat préféré avec ce vin ?

WINEMAKER: Un magret de canard aux cèpes
Duck breast with prorcini mushrooms

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Pomerol region so special?
A votre avis, en quoi est la région Pomerol particulière/exceptionnelle?

WINEMAKER: C’est l’alliance d’un sol chaud (graves siliceuses ou sables) avec un sous-sol frais d’argiles très gonflantes. C’est le climat océanique aux arrières saisons ensoleillées de Bordeaux. C’est le vent du plateau de Pomerol. Ce sont les savoir–faire, nés de la nécessité . Bref c’est le terroir.

It is the combination of a warm soil (siliceous gravel or sand) with a cool clay sub-soil. It’s the oceanic climate of the sunny late seasons of Bordeux. It’s the wind of the Pomerol plateau. It’s the know-how born of necessity. In short it’s the terroir.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?
Que faîtes-vous actuellement au domaine ?

WINEMAKER: Je vinifie le millésime 2010 !

I’m making the 2010 vintage!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?
Comment conseilleriez-vous aux gens d’aborder vos vins et les vins en général ?

WINEMAKER: Prenez votre temps… et un grand verre

Take your time … and a large glass.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?
Y-a-t-il d’autres choses que vous aimeriez raconter à/partager avec nos lecteurs ?

WINEMAKER: J’aimerais être avec vous, car le vin c’est d’abord le plaisir du partage.

I wish I could be there with you because wine is first and foremost about the pleasure of sharing.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!
Nous vous remercions de votre temps. Nous avons beaucoup appris sur vous et votre vin. Continuez le bon travail que vous faîtes ; nous sommes des fans enthousiastes !

Wine Spies RegionCheck:

Pomerol,in the Gironde department in Aquitaine in south-west France, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Trentadue Winery La Storia Cuvee 32

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Operative’s Choice: Top Sonoma Blend

Mission Codename: Tuscany Calling

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Acquire the operative favorite La Storia Cuvee 32 Super Tuscan from Trentadue Winery in Sonoma County’s pristine Alexander Valley

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trentadue

Wine Subject: 2006 Trentadue La Storia Cuvee 32

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

The broad category of wines often times called Super Tuscans is originally an Italian designation (usualy IGT and Rosso Toscana) – but this hasn’t stopped winemakers on this side of the pond from creating delicious wines in this style. Most of these wines are Sangiovese based with the addition of other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and all are unique blends that gives the winery much more flexibility with regard to the more stringent Italian Goria DOC and DOCG designations as used in Italy or TTB or Meritage Association labeling requirements.

The Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Read Agent White’s detailed tasting notes and winemaker interview, below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest garnet with a fine rim of ruby out at the edge. Thick legs start high on the glass when swirled. At the core of the wine, hues of darkest plum are visible through the inkiness.

Smell – Bold intensity, with dark cherry and blackberry leaping from the glass. These are joined by rich, spiced blueberry, cassis and black fig. Toasty notes of vanilla and oak mingle with brown spice and a hint of anise.

Feel – A smooth entry leads to a full-bodied feel that coats the mouth, drying with a spicy minerality as soft tannins take hold. An easy acidity and soft minerals add to the appealing feel and reinforcing the wines Super Tuscan kinship.

Taste – Bold and full-flavored, leading with tangy blackberry and young strawberry. Mixed plums and black fig mingle with cranberry and tart cherry, yielding to soft spice, black pepper and crushed dark red flower petals.

Finish – Medium long, with smoky dark fruit and tangy black plum, pronounced cherry and cranberry yielding to dark spice, dark minerals and black pepper.

Conclusion – This year’s vintage of Trentadue’s Cuvee 32, is a brilliant follow-up the the 2005 that we featured last year. Darker than the 2005, this wine also shows a spicier side that seems more true to its Tuscan brethren than the previous vintage. Today’s wine, the 2006 vintage, is a delicious wine that delivers bold aromatics and a very balanced flavor profile that our tasting panel found to be a delicious delight. Pair with a homemade pizza or a robust pasta dish. This wine is true delight that is a treat for all of your sense.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: 02.04.1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country… There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MIRO: The La Storia wines are our reserve wines, our best effort. The grapes are exclusively grown on our Geyserville Estate, located across from Francis Coppola Winery and next to Clos Dubois.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Our Cuvee 32 (my version of a “Super Tuscan” Blend)can be easily used instead of Cabernet in most recipes. Many meat dishes-most obviously stakes will be greatly complimented by the elevated acidity and solid tannin base of this wine. Our Cuvee 32 is an excellent choice for many tomato based pasta dishes. For the vegetarians try it with spicy eggplant, roasted Portobello, and many Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

WINEMAKER: Geyserville area is in the middle of the Alexander Valley where grape growing dates back more than a century. Some of our blocks are still the original vineyards planted back in 1896. Our Sangiovese block was planted almost 40 years ago, the Montepulciano is the latest addition to our vineyards and was planted 10 years ago. The climate and soils around the banks of the Russian River are perfect for any red varieties-deep, gravely, well drained soils that provide the building blocks for great color and depth in all of our fruit. The profile is always in the deep dark and red stone fruits with considerable body.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: This year has been very strange so far and we are still in the mode of “Grape Expectation”. We crushed only about 10 tons up to date and time is marching on. Hopefully will have couple of weeks of warm weather.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trentadue Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Fess Parker Winery Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Operative’s Choice: Top Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Exceptional Breeding

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Locate and procure a stunning Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fess Parker Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Blair Fox

Backgrounder: The Wine Spies have been featuring some really incredible Pinot Noir of late, but requests have been pouring in for a Bien Nacido (Santa Barbara County) Pinot Noir – so we sent Agent White southward to discover the best example he could find. Read his tasting notes and his mission report below to find out how he located today’s incredible Fess Parker Pinot Noir.

California’s Central Coast region, and specifically Santa Barbara and San Luis Obisbo County has become one of the state’s premier regions for Pinot Noir. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in Pinot of exceptional purity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark reddish burgundy and ruby red reflections shine through its dark core when held to the light. Along the edges, the color shows subtle violet hints and when swirled, clusters of fast thin legs streak down to the wine below.

Smell – Bold and generous aromas of earthy red fruit and specifically dark cherry with distinct undergrowth notes layered into the fruit. Complex aromas of exotic spice, smokey wood, and herbal notes meld with a subtle hints of mocha coffee and cola.

Feel – Rich and smooth, this dry and full-bodied Pinot’s powder-textured tannins are expansive and hold tight but don’t overpower. Balanced acidity and minerality adds to this wine’s exceptional structure.

Taste – Rich earthy dark cherry and other red fruit flavors are integrated with notes of exotic spices, savory herbal notes and smokey oak. A touch of mocha, vanilla and cola emerge under the woody flavors.

Finish – Long, textured and persistent tannins linger on the palate as the fruit, earth and spice notes gently fade.

Conclusion – The 2007 Fess Parker Winery Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir is well deserving of the awards and accolades its received. Rich and generous earthy fruit with layer upon layer of other complex aromas and flavors. A fantastically structured wine (give it some time to open). Enjoy the progressive evolution in the glass. Enjoy now and for the next 5-7 years.

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of Agent Red’s original mission when we first featured Fess Parker.

When I was a little Agent, my father took me on a journey through my family history. It was rife with intrigue, unsavory characters, artists, criminals, tales of fortunes won and lost – and even actual spies, and even an honest-to-god (only) horse thief.

My fathers father, a gentleman professor of romance languages and a student of history, had traced our roots back many generations. The generations which fascinated me the most were those that occupied early American history. The distant relative that held the most fascination was Daniel Boone.

American Folk Hero, explorer, businessman, military man and woodsman, it was Boones role in extending American civilization and his moniker, ”the Columbus of the woods”, that interested me most about the man. Or at least the popularized versions of the man. I became an avid student of the Disney series, Daniel Boone, and even took to wearing a coonskin cap. Granted, I was 6 years old.

Many years hence I became a Wine Spy, blazing trails of my own with Wine Spies co-founder, Agent Red. Red suggested that we were pioneers and that comment triggered memories of long-ago relative, Daniel Boone. A few days later, I rented the Disney series and, as I was watching the credits, spotted a name familiar to me from the wine industry, Fess Parker! Fess played played Daniel Boone in the Disney series of the same name.

This revelation led me to call on the winery immediately, declaring to them excitedly that I was ‘related’ to them. When I explained myself, I was met with a somewhat quizzical chuckle. Apparently, they felt that my claim was a bit of a stretch. Imagine that!

Long story short, I made an appointment with the winery, to taste their wines – and I fell in love. Their 2006 Ashley’s Vineyard Chardonnay was particularly wonderful and, right then and there, I secured a cache for our Operatives. With fruit from the Sta. Rita Hills appellation, this wine strikes a great balance of serious, fun and sincere – just like Fess Parker himself.

As for Daniel Boone, while he was not perfect by any means, he did blaze trails and he did make important discoveries – just as I try to do with the wines that I spy for you every day, dear Operative…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fess Parker Winery in Santa Barbara’s famous Foxen Canyon can be seen in this satellite photo.

Average Wine Spy Points: 92/100

2008 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Fume Blanc

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Operative’s Choice: Agent White’s Top Selection

Mission Codename: Love is a smoke made with Fumé

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Grgich Hills Estate. This time secure an allocation of their fantastic Fumé Blanc

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grgich Hills Estate

Wine Subject: 2008 Napa Valley Fumé Blanc

Winemaker: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

Backgrounder: Fumé Blanc, a creation in name by Robert Mondavi was conceived to add a new dimension to the lackluster Sauvignon Blanc that was being mass produced in California. Taking its cues from the styles of French Loire wines, specifically Sancerre and Pouilly

Fumé, Fumé Blanc expresses this varietal’s true delicious character and ties in its unique ability to be Terroir driven with excellent chalky, limestone and flinty minerality.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Crystal clear glistening light golden yellow that pales to almost clear along the edges. When swirled, this wine shows its springy surface that settles quickly, leaving behind closely-spaced, skinny legs that emerge quickly and then settle slowly down the inside of the glass.

Smell – Fresh and aromatic with citrus notes of fresh lemon, key lime and also a touch of tropical fruit and melon with hints of smoke, subtle fresh herbal components and chalky minerality.

Feel – Smooth, cool, dry and elegant with excellent minerality and acidity, this medium bodied white has good weight and balance that finds its support at the mid palate and lingers into to the long finish.

Taste – Crisp and tart citrus fruit including Meyers lemon and key lime with a touch of tropical melon are layered over a taught chalky and flinty minerality. Subtle smoke and herbal hints emerge under the fresh and bright fruit.

Finish – This wine finishes very long and ultra clean with lingering citrus, smoke and herbal flavors that are supported by great acidity and fine flinty minerality.

Conclusion – The 2008 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Fumé Blanc is even better than the 2007 vintage in our humble opinion. Crisp and clean with exceptional balance between its weight, acidity and minerality. Fresh and bright citrus fruit and its subtle complexity makes this wine perfect for food and just tastes like Springtime!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

DATE OF BIRTH: April 1st, 1923

PLACE OF BIRTH: Desne, in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatian region

WINE EDUCATION: Attended University of Zagreb. Field of study, viticulture and enology

CALIFORNIA WINERIES EXPERIENCE: Christian Brothers Cellars, Souverain Winery, Robert Mondavi and Beaulieu Vineyard (with André Tchelistcheff)

FOUNDED NAMESAKE WINERY: Grgich Hills Cellar, founded 1977, renamed to Grgich Hills Estate in 2006

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To, ”… year after year, is to improve the quality of [the] vineyards and [the] wines” and to, ”… remain committed to making distinctive wines with quality, consistency and longevity”.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Chardonnay

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: In 1976, Mike Grgich’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won the infamous Judgement of Paris tasting, to become the best Chardonnay in the world. The fact that a California wine won the tasting shocked the wine world – and spurned Mr. Grgich on to great success with his own winery

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: On March 7, 2008, in recognition of his impact and contribution to the wine industry, Mr. Grgich was inducted into the Vintner Hall of Fame. The honor coincided with his 50th vintage of winemaking in the Napa Valley

GRGICH QUOTE: ”For years, everybody in the world believed that only French soils could produce great wines. We shattered that myth. That was probably the most significant result of the Paris tasting. Our victory pumped new energy into the California wine industry, particularly in the Napa Valley.”

BLACK BERET: Mr. Grgich wears an ever present black beret. It is rumored that the beret is imbued with magical energies that power his winemaking talents. Further investigation is required…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Grgich Hills Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

Average Wine Spy Points: 93/100

2006 Rodney Strong Vineyards Alexander Valley Estate Reserve Syrah

2010 Wine Intrigue Awards
Operative’s Choice: Top Syrah

Mission Codename: The Revenge of the Strongman

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Our best-selling Syrah of all time was Rodney Strong’s own 2005 vintage Reserve Syrah from the Alexander Valley in northern Sonoma County. Send Agent Red back to Rodney Strong Vineyards to retrieve their 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Syrah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Rodney Strong Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Syrah

Winemaker: Rick Sayre

Backgrounder: Our Operatives loved the 2005 and 2004 vintages of Rodney Strong’s Alexander Valley Estate Syrah, making the wine the most popular Syrah we have ever featured. Today, Agent Red returns to Rodney Strong to procure the newest release of the wine, a more potent and more delicious vintage to be sure.

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a bold delight with original flavors, deep aromatics and a ultra-fine mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and interesting mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest garnet, clear but with a deeper core of black cherry, the wine maintains deep concentration of color right out to it’s red-rouge edges. The wine shows a soft and heavy when swirled, settling very quickly, and leaving behind tight clusters of heavy legs that start slowly and then rocket down the edges of the glass

Smell – Dark cherry, blackberry, black pepper and dried meats lead the way. These authentic aromas sit atop brighter cranberry, pencil shavings, subtle eucalyptus and soft, dusty leathery dried fruit

Feel – Light and cool on entry, then quickly grippy, as mouth-coating tannis bite in gently at the tip of the tongue – winding the way around the entire palate, introducing a mineral-slate dryness

Taste – Overripe blackberry, black cherry, smokey black fruit, black pepper, tobacco leaf, subtle sweetwoods, cranberry and a hint of star anise

Finish – Dark and dusky, with lingering black fruit and tobacco flavors. Softly dry and slightly tart, leading to a mouthwatering reminder to enjoy another sip

Conclusion – I have had the great fortune to have tasted through three successive vintages of this great wine. I loved each one, especially today’s wine. Our Operatives love Rodney Strong’s Estate Reserve Syrah, as well, making each vintage of the wine the best-selling Syrah we have ever featured. What is the secret to this wine? In a word, experience. It is a testament to the winemaking skills, to the quality of the fruit and the care that the vineyard team showers on these particular Syrah grapes each season. Today’s wine continues Rodney Strong’s tradition of over delivering on their Estate Reserve wines. Their 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Reserve Syrah is delicious, complex and rich in flavor and aromatics. Somewhat lighter in feel this year than in previous, today’s wine is still complex and a true delight to experience. In fact, with it’s lighter feel and finer acidity, this wine is more food-friendly than past vintages. Enjoy now, or cellar for a few years. Decant for at least 30 minutes, and be rewarded with broader aromatics and richer flavors.

Mission Report:

The call came in the middle of the night.

“Go for red,” I answered groggily.

“Do you recognize my voice?”

I perked up almost immediately. It was Teech, a great asset and local college professor. Teech is a respected professor of Wine Industry Marketing at the Sonoma State University, and a great friend to the company.

Without saying her name, I replied, “I do. Go.”

“If I can guarantee your anonymity, will you come and guest lecture to my students?”

“I would be honored. Transmit the date and details, and I’ll be there. Depending on my mission on that day, I may have to come in disguise. That’ll help me keep my cover.”

She agreed and we signed off. A few minutes later, my smartphone chimed. Coordinates and full details were revealed to me on the small screen. I confirmed the date.

The weeks passed and I eventually found myself in front of a class of college students. I was there as a ‘wine industry marketing insider’, and I gave a talk on ‘alternative sales channels’. Actually, it was more like an informal dialog, with a short presentation and a longer Q&A session. It was good fun and almost all of the students actually stayed awake.

One student, in particular, had the tougher questions for me. I did my best to answer him, but as the questions became tougher, I realized that he was testing me. Was he trying to punch holes in my cover? I wondered. I kept my cool and decided to subtly press back.

It was obvious, to us both, what was happening here, so I made it a point to encourage other students to ask questions.

The presentation now over, the young man approached me. He reached into his jacket pocket. I tensed, ready to spring. He withdrew his hand – to reveal a business card. the card read, ‘Rodney Strong Vineyard’ and contained his name, [REDACTED], and title, [REDACTED].

I took the card and then accepted his outstretched hand. He said in a whisper, “Agent Red, I’m codename King. I’m your newest asset. I’ll be acting as your mole at Rodney Strong. I’ll reach out when I can secure a fantastic RS wine.”

I don’t know how he knew my true identity – and it didn’t much matter; And so a valuable new asset was developed. And, now you know how I came to procure today’s delicious Syrah for you!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Rodney Strong Vineyards (look for the the brick-colored, X-shaped building) can be seen in this satellite photo.

Average Wine Spy Points: 92/100

2000 Mumm Napa Valley DVX

2010 Wine Intrigue Award Winners
Operative’s Choice: Top Sparkling Wine

Mission Codename: The Deep End

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate a stellar sparkling wine for our deserving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mumm Napa

Wine Subject: 2000 Mumm Napa DVX

Winemaker: Ludovic Dervin

Backgrounder: For today’s selection, we sent Agent Red out in search of an extraordinary sparkling wine. He did not need to look far; Ever since Agent Red fell in love with them on a mission more than three years ago, Mumm Napa winery has been a Wine
Spies mainstay.

Today, Agent Red returns with an exclusive secret cache of Mumm Napa’s flagship sparkling wine, their 94-point 2000 DVX. Read his detailed tasting notes and mission report below, which includes an interview with Mumm winemaker Ludovic Dervin. NOTE: Each bottle comes with the signature metal wine flute, shown hanging from the bottle in the photo above.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Delicate bubbles cascade upward in spiraling columns, through wine of pale straw color. Swirl the wine, slightly, and the columns of bubbles excite, sending additional bubbles outward, filling the glass.

Smell – Delicate at first sniff, with aromas of delicate white flowers, yeasty fresh bread dough, young strawberry and the finest hint of navel orange. After some time in the glass, and as the wine warms just slightly, additional aromas of nutty vanilla, apricot, soft cherry and fine apple emerge.

Feel – Fine bubbles play across the palate, remaining consistent in size and volume, throughout. The wine is soft and wet all around the palate, with a very pleasing smoothness that is uncommon in most sparkling wines.

Taste – Superbly delicious, with refined flavors of fresh red apple, fresh baked bread, acacia flower, nutty vanilla, apricot, easy citrus, subtle cherry and the slightest hint of strawberries and milk chocolate.

Finish – Beautifully flavorful and long as aromas of white flowers, soft citrus and soft cherry tail off slowly, in a creamy finish that lingers long after the effervescence has subsided.

Conclusion – This is, by far, the best domestic bubbly I have had the pleasure to taste. With a perfect mouthfeel that makes you want to sip and sip this delicious bubbly, our tasting panel found it hard to put its glasses down for very long. Review bottles were depleted quickly, as this bubbly was discussed and enjoyed. Flavors are light, but not subtle or restrained. Similarly, aromatics don’t leap out of the glass, but are more refined and very natural. Overall, this is an extraordinarily pleasing bubbly that is a true delight to drink. We paired ours with thin-crust pizza Bianco (no tomato sauce) with Gruyere, apple slices, thick-cut bacon and leeks. The pairing was total perfection. If you are looking for an amazing sparkling wine, you have found it. Mumm’s 94-point 2000 DVX is a brilliant bubbly!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Ludovic Dervin

DATE OF BIRTH: November 1970

PLACE OF BIRTH: Meaux, France

WINE EDUCATION: Diplome National d’Oenologue in Reims, France., Diplome d’Etudes Superieures en Oenologie des Vins de Champagne in Reims, France.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Wine maker for Mumm Napa

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balanced wines, with power and elegance

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Mainly blends, with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Creating a new wine with Musician Carlos Santana, to benefit underprivileged children, called SANTANA RESERVE.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Sparkling wines are not wines to keep for special occasions, but wines which will make any occasion special!”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Ludovic. We are thrilled to be showing your 2000 DVX today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

LUDOVIC: Bonjour, again, Agent Red, and many thanks for showcasing our flagship sparkling today!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

LUDOVIC: I think it all started playing hide and seek in the Champagne vineyards. I was always curious about the life cycle of grapes to wine as a kid, and all the culture surrounding it. I don’t think it is really one specific bottle of wine or wine experience that lead me to embrace winemaking as a professional career, but rather the sum of many small experiences growing up in the vineyards of Champagne. Winemaking has all the ingredients that I enjoy in life. A perfect mix of cultural traditions and modern science, interactions with our environment and people. Grape vines also tend to grow in some of the most beautiful regions of the world, such as our Napa valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

LUDOVIC: I studied winemaking science and craftsmanship mainly in Champagne in my early days, but I also traveled and made wines in the new world and old world of winemaking. California, Greece, South Africa, France.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

LUDOVIC: I like to craft wines which are balanced, fruit forward and food friendly. I like wines with a crisp and refreshing acidity, with depth, power and elegance. The fruit forwardness, freshness and elegance are achieved through meticulous farming and gentle handling of the fruit to avoid excessive bruising of the berries. I think it is important to let the fruit express itself through minimum winemaking intervention, but it is the daily attention to details which separate good wines to world class excellence.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

LUDOVIC: Again, it is more a combination of all that I encountered through my life that influences my winemaking style today, rather than one single event or person. I am not trying to duplicate or emulate somebody else’s style or personality, but rather look for my own. So I only look at my past encounters as a source of inspiration to build upon. I was lucky enough to work with some great mentors through my career and it is hard to single out any one of them. If I had to pick one person each for Still wines and Sparkling wines who significantly influence how I approach winemaking today I would say Bob Cabral from Williams Selyem and Daniel Thibault from Champagne Charles and Piper Heidsieck.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

LUDOVIC: My first winemaking job was in 1990 working as one of the harvest interns at Champagne GH Mumm in France.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

LUDOVIC: I always try to keep the consumer in mind for each different wine I make. My ultimate goal is to make wines that people want. But every-once in a while I like to make small batches just to experiment for myself.

RED: Tell me, what makes Carneros so special?

LUDOVIC: The Carneros District, with its cool evenings, foggy mornings and warm days, provides the best climate around for producing the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. When we go out tasting the grapes, we’re looking for even ripening, while maintaining high acidity and moderate sugar levels. These qualities are what create elegant, ageable sparkling wines that we can enjoy through the years.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

LUDOVIC: I think to be a good winemaker; you need to have a good sense of observation, and be prepared for a lot of long and sleepless nights during harvest.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

LUDOVIC: We are just wrapping up our harvest. We have brought in all of our sparkling wine grapes and have begun bringing in some still wine grapes. Our efforts have just begun in the cellar as we are now in the midst of watching all the separate lots in their primary fermentation. Everyone has been working long hours and it is paying off. Although a very strange year, with the extended rains in the spring and cooler than usual summer, I think it will prove to be an excellent year for sparkling.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

LUDOVIC: Not only is this my favorite wine to make, but it is the best wine that we create from each vintage. It is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, from the Carneros District. We carefully press the grapes to minimize contact with the skins so that we have a brilliantly clear bubbly in the end. It is a blend of 14 lots that are each kept separate during primary fermentation to fully express individual vineyard characteristics and strengths. We fermented 30% in barrel to add depth and spiciness. Then aged it sur lees for five and a half years. We disgorged it as a brut style and aged it another 6 months on the cork before release.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

LUDOVIC: We poured this at our annual Lobster Dinner for Club Members and it was fantastic. Since we can’t have lobster every day, I would recommend it with some fresh tomatoes of the season piled with burratta, drizzled in olive oil and balsamic and sprigs of basil. Anything fresh from the garden over a bed of angel hair pasta and some shaved parmesan would be good too, as the acidity holds up well to the saltiness of aged cheeses and the crispness of freshly sautéed vegetables. But as fall approaches, the nutty, autolytic qualities lend it to pairing well with roasted chicken and wild mushrooms in a white wine sauce over pappardelle.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

LUDOVIC: I don’t have TV at home.

RED: Nor do I! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

LUDOVIC: I am not an everyday kind of person. I believe in diversity and complexity, so my everyday wine somewhat changes everyday. But I tend to drink a lot of our DVX tête de cuvee sparkling wine, and a lot of Pinot Noir still wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

LUDOVIC: Very simply actually. We try to make different wines with very different styles and personality at Mumm Napa, so each person can find a wine they like. We all are different people and through our various life experiences, we tend to enjoy different flavors and textures. The best way to enjoy wine for me is with good food and good company. When you approach wine that way, you can really enjoy diversity. I tend to craft wines with crisp and refreshing acidity, because they pair better with food, and tend to age better. The most important thing to keep in mind when you taste wine is your personal integrity and palate. Think for yourself and don’t try to like a wine just because someone else gave it a good score or because it is expensive. Just experience and have fun. Most important with sparkling wines, get out of the habit to open them only for special occasions. They are extremely food friendly, and their festive spirit will enhance the atmosphere in a way that will make every occasion special.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

LUDOVIC: In the bubbly form, I am a big fan of Don Ruinart Champagne. A magnum of their Blanc de Blanc would work for me.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

LUDOVIC: Besides winemaking, what is the most important thing in your life; My family.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

LUDOVIC:Always a pleasure to share good time with good friends. Thanks a lot for your support and best wishes for the coming season!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mumm Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

Operative’s Choice: Top International Selection

2010 Wine Intrigue Award Winners
Operative’s Choice: Top International Selection

Mission Codename: Top International Selection

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional wine in honor of our Third Annual Wine Intigue Awards

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cascina Bruciata

Wine Subject: 2004 Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva DOCG

Winemaker: Francesco Baravalle

Backgrounder:

The wines of the Barbaresco DOCG are made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Nebbiolo, native to the Piedmont in north-west Italy and cultivated in the region since the 13th century is generally a softer more elegant wine than its heavier brethren Barolo. The late ripening Nebbiolo is known to be highly influenced by various soil and vineyard conditions, with the wines from the best vineyard sites having sublime character.

The Nebbiolo grapes in this wine, considered the greatest of all Italian grapes, must be aged for a minimum of two years, of which one year must be oak or chestnut barrels. Barbaresco has exceptional aging qualities with the best wines having 40+ years of potential. Both Barbaresco and Barolo are considered to be among the finest wines in Italy.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dense ruby red with a clear bright ruby core. Along the edges, the color shows its barrel aging with a well developed rich ‘patina’ of brick/pink/ruby. When swirled, slow fat legs hang before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Medium bold in intensity with classic aromas of spiced black cherry, toasted spiced oak, a touch of black licorice, complex herbal notes and a hint of rose petal perfume.

Feel – Bright and tangy on the initial attack with highly textured etched tannins. Give this full-bodied wine time to open, however, and you’ll be greeted with a smooth and dry experience that is 100% pure Barbaresco.

Taste – Bright tart and ripe black cherry and other dark fruit flavors are layered and well integrated with complex notes of spiced toasted oak, herbal and floral components, rich cigar tobacco and a touch of black licorice.

Finish – Ultra long with this wines highly textured and sturdy tannins gripping onto the palate for an eternity as the black cherry, spice and other complex flavors linger away.

Conclusion – The 2004 Cascina Bruciata Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva DOCG is a truly exceptional example of the power and grace found in fine Barbaresco. This wine’s sublime complexity on the nose and palate is buttressed by its study but elegant structure. Certainly young to drink now (decant or let breathe for at least an hour), this wine will improve for a decade or more. Pair this wine with any classic Piedmonte cuisine, especially anything with truffles in it.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Francesco Baravalle

WINE EDUCATION: -Viticulture and Enology degree (2001 University of Turin)
-Sommelier degree (2008 Associazione Italiana Sommelier)

WINE JOB BRIEF: in addition to working in the Piedmont, I’ve spent three months in Margaret River (2003 Western Australia) and 4 years in Virginia making wine in the Monticello wine area (close to the city of Charlottesville).

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Apply the technologies to enhance and respect the personalities of each wine terroirs.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “wine is a devotion”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Barolo Bricco Rocche Prapo’ 2003 (2007).

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Francesco. We are thrilled to be showing your [wine] today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

FRANCESCO: Greetings to you!You are more then welcome, for me it is a great pleasure and honor to be part of this interview.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

FRANCESCO: My family in not into the wine business but I grew up going to vineyards during harvest time when my grandfather used to purchase grapes to make his own red wine. In addition, my dad is a great wine lover, so I’ve been educated to appreciate and respect wine.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

FRANCESCO: My stile is the Barolo and Barbaresco, I was born in Cuneo and I grew up surronded by this taste and flavors. I’m working now to understand more about this territory to get always the best expressions of it.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

FRANCESCO: I make wine for Cascina Bruciata, a little family owned winery located in one of the most prestigious crus of the Barbaresco DOCG area, the Rio Sordo

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

FRANCESCO: Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2004 is a wine that comes from a 45 years old vineyard located in the heart of the Rio Sordo. In 2004 the grapes where perfectly ripe and healty,the whole season was very balanced (sun vs rain) and the flavors we are aprreciating now are showing great elegance in a perfect balance with its mouthfull body. We realised this wine in 2009 after have been elevated for 24 months in french allier oak barriques, 1 year in stainless steel tank and 1 year in bottle. This wine can age in bottle for another 10 years easily.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

FRANCESCO: A structured wine requests a structured dish, I think it pairs wery well with pre-braised piedmontese veal marinated and cooked in Nebbiolo based wine (Barolo or Barbaresco).

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Piedmont so special?

FRANCESCO: Each wine from this region shows a very distinctive personality due to the hilly landscape and the ancient origin of the soil. Even inside the same cru you can find different espressions of the same style. The Nebbiolo grape in this area shows the highest quality with its unic aromatic profile.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

FRANCESCO: We are a small winery, so I do pretty much everything the season requests. Recently I’m spending a lot of time travelling to promote and explain what our territory is about. Spending time with people allows me to learn a lot and to share this “devotion” that I have for wine.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

FRANCESCO: The beauty of wine is not only the sensorial experience of tasting it, it is about knowing the tradition and culture of people and territory behind it. We have infinite sources of info through the internet, so I think when we decide to discover a wine, it would be interesting and fun to get some info about where it is from.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

FRANCESCO: When we taste a wine we are exposed to traditions, lifestyle and taste; this is a great way to increase a lot our culture on people and territories. It is a lot of fun!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

FRANCESCO: You are very welcome, thank you for letting me introduce my wine and region.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Cascina Bruciata and its vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.