2007 Peterson Winery Dry Creek Valley Syrah

Mission Codename: Newton’s Pride

Operative: Agent Red – with guest reviewer, Agent Eiswein

Objective: Return to our good friends at Peterson Winery, in Sonoma County’s pristine Dry Creek Valley, secure their newest Gravity Flow Syrah, a stupendous wine that is an Agent Red favorite.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Syrah Bradford Mountain Vineyard Gravity Flow Block

Winemaker: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder: Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. Today’s selection is from our friends at Peterson Winery and the Bradford Mountain Vineyard – which is located on the western edge of DCV where its higher elevation and unique soil composition have a divine influence on the grapes grown there.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A lovely, jeweled garnet and purple with a light pink rim, stained tears and medium legs.

Smell – A rich nose of fruit and earth. Black raspberry, blackberry jam, dried blueberry and cherry mingle with notes of dried leaves, leather, soil, chocolate, smoke and briar.

Feel – A medium to full bodied wine which is very smooth across the mid-palate, with bright acidity in the cheeks and medium tannins along the gum-line.

Taste – The rich black dried and jammy fruits which echo the nose sing out in the mouth. These are followed by a flavors of chocolate and tobacco.

Finish – This wine lingers long, with a beautiful balance of fruits, chocolate, acid and tannin. In the end, those rich fruits linger longest.

Conclusion – The 2007 Syrah Bradford Mountain Vineyard is a delicious wine, especially for those who love a wine that is rich and fruity, but also nicely balanced, smooth and elegant. We are such ardent fans of Jamie and Fred Peterson and we have come to admire their skillful growing, along with their fantastic winemaking style and ability. Their wines are always a true pleasure to imbibe. Today’s Gravity Flow Syrah is an easy pairing wine that can hold up to bold foods, especially fatty, juicy flavorful steaks and even bbq. Enjoy!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jamie Peterson

DATE OF BIRTH: March 20, 1981

PLACE OF BIRTH: Saratoga, CA (Mt. Eden Vineyards)

WINE EDUCATION: Ongoing, on-the-job. UC Davis Extension chemistry/lab analysis/viticulture classes.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Grew up in Peterson Winery, helping with odd jobs in the winery and vineyard as a teenager. Worked first harvest at 19, and then traveled to Australia and New Zealand to work harvest in 2001. took over as Assistant Winemaker at Peterson Winery in 2002. Given full Winemaker responsibility in 2006. 13 harvests under the belt at age 29.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Zero Manipulation”/Minimal intervention, letting the vineyard and vintage show through in each bottling. No fining, no filtration. Minimal new oak usage, minimal additions and SO2 use.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (but his Syrah is amazing)

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”If it ain’t got the root, it ain’t got the fruit.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: For Peterson Winery- 1991. For Jamie- 2002 Vintage, released in 2004

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jamie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Syrah, today. We love the wine!! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. And, thanks for making such amazing wines!

JAMIE: As always, it’s great to be back with The Wine Spies.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JAMIE: It’d be hard to pick one. Growing up with the sights, sounds, and smells of the winery and vineyards, there were many inspirational moments. But I didn’t think I’d be getting into the life of wine as deeply as I have until I worked harvests in 2001 in Australia and New Zealand. Working closely with other winemakers and seeing the international wine community and how it ties people together made me decide to come back to the family winery and join full time in 2002.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JAMIE: From my father, growing up in the winery, and learning on the job.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JAMIE: I believe that vineyard and vintage driven wines are the only reason for small wineries to exist. I prefer wines from different vintages to reflect the growing season (otherwise why put the vintage on the bottle?) rather than use additives (acid, tannins, enzymes, gum arabic, overblown new oak, etc) or technological processes (filtration, alcohol removal, micro-oxygenation) to create wines that taste the same each year. I don’t filter or fine our wines, and I predominantly use native yeast fermentations and malo-lactics, so we have to keep things clean and monitor closely, as we don’t choose to use the tools for fixing mistakes that some wineries do. We source from the same vineyards each year, so there is a thread of continuity running through vintages. Our vineyards are sustainably farmed, with a few certified organic, and a number of others dry-farmed.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JAMIE: I’m inspired by European vintners who have made wines from the same places for generations, and haven’t succumbed to commercialism.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JAMIE: 2002 was my first full year of working with wines from grape to bottle. 2000 was the first full harvest I worked with my father. At 29, I have 13 harvests under my belt (including working in both Australia and New Zealand in 2001).

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JAMIE: I make wines for my own tastes, and then we find enough people that share our ideas and style to buy it. We don’t normally submit our wines for scoring or competitions, and instead rely on word of mouth and community to find enough supporters.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Bradford Mountain Vineyard so special?

JAMIE: Bradford Mountain Estate Vineyard, on the western edge of the Dry Creek Valley is where my dad lives, and I was raised, and where my dad planted his first vineyard in Dry Creek in 1983. The vineyard is located just south of Bradford Peak at 1,000 ft. elevation with the perfect southwest exposure. The well-drained, red clay soil of Bradford Mountain combined with sunny days and cool nights produce small, intensely flavored grapes.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JAMIE: Realize that winemaking is both simple and complicated. It’s all just fermented grape juice, but it’s all about the details; every minute little thing you do or don’t do to the grapes or wine will affect how it turns out. Taste as much as you can and think about who you will be making wine for.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JAMIE: We’ve finished harvest, and are seeing the wines through their secondary malo-lactic fermentation. We just finished putting together the final 2009 vintage blends (which are tasting great..), and will begin bottling some of the 2009 wines in January. We’re ordering glass, labels, and all that fun stuff.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JAMIE: The “Gravity Flow Block” Syrah is the realization of a dream of my father’s to produce a Syrah grown on the most exposed, well-drained location on our Bradford Mountain vineyard. This rocky hillock directly behind the house on Bradford Mountain got its name from the fact that at the top sits our 10,000 gallon water tank that serves our house and garden via gravity flow. Though we had cleared the brush off the hill in the early 1990’s, it remained unplanted through the remainder of the decade as we put our efforts into our new winery business.

In March 2001, we planted the vineyard to 90% Syrah (5 clones), 8% Viognier and 2% Petite Sirah with the vines planted 3 feet apart in the row and 6 feet between rows. Though the rocky ground made digging the planting holes a pain, we dug extra large holes mixing the rocky parent soil with substantial quantities of compost to give the vines a jump-start. We trained the vines up their training stakes that year and in 2002 harvested a small crop that we blended into our Mendocino Carignane.

By co-fermenting the Syrah and Viogner in the Cote Rotie tradition, the union of aromas and flavors begins at the wine’s birth. The Viogner contributes significant yet subtle influences with its delicate floral and fruit components. The resulting wine is head spinning with seductive aromas, big chewy, juicy flavors and lots of fruit. And, at the core of this wine you’ll discover that amazing mineral essence, the trademark of Bradford Mountain terroir.

In 2007, we had large day-night temperature swings, creating wines with great ripeness, but balanced with high natural acidity. I tried some whole cluster fermentation on this wine for the first time (something we used to do when we made Pinot Noir). and the result is a much more complex, spicy wine with added tannin that should age effortlessly for 20 years.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JAMIE: The Syrah is amazing with lamb dishes; most notably braised shanks with tomato, olives, and herbs, but also grilled lamb.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JAMIE: I like to go mushroom hunting (for chanterelles and porcini), even though as a teenager I accidentally picked and ate Death Cap mushrooms.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JAMIE: Zinfandel is the wine I seem to open the most often of our own, but I also drink a lot of Rhone wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JAMIE: So many people look for the “best” wine. I always ask them “best for what?” Every wine has a place and time for appreciating (unless it just is a wine that really sucks…), and it’s more important for people to figure out what types of wine they like, and why, than what others think is the best. Trust your own palate rather than what a critic or others say.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JAMIE: Thanks for having me, and for appreciating and featuring our wines!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Riverbench Vineyard & Winery Estate Chardonnay

Mission Codename: Mr. Chardonnay Comes To Town

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Riverbench Vineyards and winemaker Chuck Ortman’s latest release of their Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Riverbench Vineyards & Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Santa Maria Valley Estate Chardonnay

Winemaker: Chuck Ortman

Backgrounder:Chardonnay is arguably the greatest of all white grape varietals, showing its influence in the legendary sparkling wines of Champagne, the great whites of Burgundy and of course its expression as ’the’ white wine of California. Chardonnay represents over 50% of the planted white grapes in California with nearly 100,000 acres planted. With such a great number of wines made from this grape, it stands to reason that finding wines of immense quality would be hard, but look no further. In this wine, we have found a superb expression of the California Chardonnay.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful crystal clear deep straw golden-yellow, with edges that are slightly more pale showing straw hues. The wine has slightly more viscous texture and leaves behind widely spaced clusters of medium thick legs that hang on the side of the glass.

Smell – Bright aromas of citrus, tropical and green tree fruit with a distinctive sweet orange blossom honey and subtle mineral and toasted oak and nutty notes. Add tiny hints of spice for additional depth.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this full-bodied white has an exceptional weighty and generous mouthfeel that is expansive on the palate along with a lively acidity that is in perfect balance.

Taste – Both rich and plush with citrus creme, tropical melon fruit and both tart under-ripe and fresh Bartlett pear blend sweet orange blossom honey and subtle toasted oak notes. Hints of slate minerality and a touch of sweet spice and beeswax that is also felt on the palate.

Finish – Long and clean with its creamy lemon citrus leading off then fading leaving bright and tart citrus, green pear behind as a touch of spice and toast adds depth and complexity.

Conclusion – The 2008 Riverbench Vineyards & Winery Santa Maria Valley Estate Chardonnay is a plush wine with clean and bright fruit aromas and a mouthfeel that is expansive and generous. Bright citrus and green fruit, orange blossom honey, subtle toasted oak and creamy nuttiness makes this wine ideal for anyone who loves the unique California expression of Chardonnay

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Chuck Ortman

WINE EDUCATION: Cellar rat since 1967, classes at UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Chuck Ortman is recognized as one of California’s most accomplished winemakers. His winemaking career spans nearly 40 years in California, during which he cultivated his signature “Ortman style” of winemaking.
Chuck’s winemaking career began as a “cellar rat” at Napa Valley’s Heitz Cellars in 1968. He quickly worked his way up the winemaking ranks, and by the mid-1970s he was a renowned winemaking consultant to some of Napa Valley’s finest wineries, including Far Niente, Shafer and Cain. Along the way, Chuck became one of the first California winemakers to explore the benefits of barrel fermentation of Chardonnay, earning him the nickname “Mr. Chardonnay.”

Chuck later founded Meridian Vineyards in Paso Robles. The success of Meridian Vineyards helped establish the Central Coast as one of California’s most dynamic and prestigious winegrowing regions.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Make wines that showcase a special vineyard. Riverbench has long been a quality vineyard site.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: April 2008

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Chuck. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Chardonnay today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

CHUCK ORTMAN: Thanks for your support!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

CHUCK: When I went to Napa in 1967, Dave Bertolli of Chateau Souverain was one of the first people I met. I fell for winemaking and was able to get a job with Joe Heitz as a cellar rat. We wanted to get out of the city and into the country lifestyle, where everyone knows everyone and we could raise our daughter. Wine was a huge part of that lifestyle.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CHUCK: Mike Collini from Stony Hill makes complex Chardonnays. His wines all have magnificent subtleties that bring out the character of each vineyard site. I admire that.

RED: We recently featured a Stony Hill Chardonnay. I can’t stop raving about that wine, either! Tell me, who do you make wine for?

CHUCK:I don’t make wine for the reviewers. I make wine for mother nature, based on what she gives me to work with.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

CHUCK: The Estate Chardonnay featured here is our flagship Chardonnay for Riverbench. It’s a great expression of the vineyard site, with tropical fruit and some up front toastiness. It’s made in a classic, traditional style with only French oak (about 40% new), so it’s very approachable and balanced. We use a good bit of Clone 4 Chardonnay, which is one of the noted clones in the Santa Maria Valley.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

CHUCK: Baked chicken is delicious with this wine. Buttery cheeses, pastas.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the [REGION] so special?

CHUCK: The soil – which is sand mostly- and the direct marine influence. Foggy nights, sunshiny days, and it rarely gets too hot. The Santa Maria Valley is located in a transverse mountain range, which means it runs east to west instead of north to south. This funnels in those cool ocean breezes, creating an ideal climate for Burgundian varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CHUCK: For the most part, I’ve retired. Riverbench is a small project which I love, but for the most part I spend time with my family. I just turned 71!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

CHUCK: First, look at aromatics and fruit nuances. Look for smoothness, silkiness in Pinot Noirs, and balance in all wines. A well balanced finish means you don’t know exactly what’s there- you know there’s fruit and you know there is oak, but they work together in perfect harmony. A great wines makes you ask, “What do I like so much about this?” and then go back for another sip.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

CHUCK: Over the past forty years, Riverbench has been fine tuning its vineyard practices, and selling grapes to other producers around the state. It’s always stood out- I remember at Meridian, the Riverbench grapes were always really special. Finally having an opportunity to showcase this site is extraordinary.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Riverbench Vineyards & Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Monchiero Carbone Barbera d’Alba MonBirone DOC

Mission Codename: Our Lady of MonBirone

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire an exclusive allocation of a Barbera d’Alba for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Monchiere Carbone

Wine Subject: 2006 Barbera d’Alba MonBirone DOC

Winemaker: Francesco Carbone

Backgrounder:

Barbera, the third most planted varietal (after Sangiovese and Montepulciano) in Italy finds its most classic expression in the Piedmont and specifically in Asti and the much smaller Alba region. The best of Barbera is, like this wine, the Barbera d’Alba which can match any Barolo or Barbaresco in terms of overall quality. Barbera d’Alba is characteristically rich and full of flavor and makes up just a small percentage of the total production of the region.The finest Barbera is grown in specific single vineyard crus surrounding those communes. Italian Barbera comes in two basic forms, the tradizione, a more rustic old-world style and newer more fruit forward styles similar to the Barbera that is grown in California. Sadly, Barbera is often passed up as a lesser varietal but when done well, these wines show their classic Italian heritage and character.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and dense purple garnet with ruby streaks through its clear but deep heart. Ruby along the edges and when swirled, evenly spaced legs of random speeds descend to the wine below.

Smell – Both rich and bright, with vibrant aromas of tart red and black berries, cherry and tart plum are layered over hot spice, cocoa and mocha notes. Toasted and smokey oak, spice, balsam and green herbs and hints of earth round out the complex nose.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this full-bodied classic has rustic textured tannins and lively acidity that hits mid palate. Well developed but bright, with a touch of spice, sweet minerality and tartness.

Taste – Rich and smooth, with well balanced and fruit forward flavors of tart blackberry, red plum and ripe cherry integrates with toasted smokey oak, mocha coffee and cocoa. Hints of vanilla toast, soft spice, and soft minerality lingers through to the finish.

Finish -Lingering long with the rich dark fruit fading gently as the textured tannin, acidity and mineral structure holds on just a bit longer.

Conclusion – The 2006 Monchiere Carbone Barbera d’Alba MonBirone DOC is a delicious traditional Barbera that hows that this generally youthful varietal can have both power and complexity to spare. Beautifully dark, rich and complex on the nose, rustic textured on the palate and lively in its flavors this wine is perfect for your fall or winter stews and game meats. Be sure to let this wine breathe and open up to reveal all of its unique aromas and flavors. Drink now or cellar for up to 5 years.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Francesco Carbone

WINE EDUCATION: Alba Piedmonte

WINE JOB BRIEF: Wine Maker for Monchiero Carbone

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Respect the full extent of nature when you are in the vineyard.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Barbera is a wine that can age but is also very satisfying when it is young.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1995 Monbrione and a Roero Nebbiolo.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Francesco. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Barbera d’Alba MonBirone DOC today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

FRANCESCO: Thank you so much. It is a pleasure talking with you from Italy. I am glad you enjoyed my wine and I am pleased to share it with your operatives.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

FRANCESCO: One of my fondest memories was when my Grandfather took me into the family vineyard and taught me how to prune the vines. I realized at that point I wanted to make my life’s work taking care of the vineyard and making best wine possible.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

FRANCESCO: My Father gave me a glass of Orvieto.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

FRANCESCO: I make wine for myself and my family. Because I put so much of my heart and soul into the wine, the people who drink my wine really enjoy it. They can taste the passion.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

FRANCESCO: The grapes have a unique quality the gives the wine fantastic freshness form the acidity, lots of spice on the palate and full body on the finish.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

FRANCESCO: Rare (Bloody) Florentine Steak.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Piedmont and Alba in particular so special?

FRANCESCO: The soil and the hills create an incredible micro-climate that allows the grapes to develop such complexity.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

FRANCESCO: Always trying to create a unique bouquet.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

FRANCESCO: If you drink my wines, it will transport you to the hill of Piedmont. So, take a moment you enjoy where wine comes from and taste a little bit of Italy in every sip.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

FRANCESCO: When drinking this wine, know you are drinking one of the best Barberas in Piedmont.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Filippo Gallino just north of Alba can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 LaZarre Wines Edna Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Mission Codename: The White Leopard

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a limited allocation of the Adam LaZarre’s newest Sauvignon Blanc

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: LaZarre Wines

Wine Subject: 2009 Edna Valley San Luis Obisbo Sauvignon Blanc

Winemaker: Adam LaZarre

Backgrounder:

California’s Central Coast region, and specifically Santa Barbara and San Luis Obisbo County has become one of the state’s premier wine regions. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in grapes of exceptional purity.

Sauvignon Blanc originally hails from the Loire Valley in France, but has found new homes in other parts of France (Bordeaux, where it is blended with Sauternes); New Zealand, and specifically the Marlborough region as well as California. It is generally dry and crisp with flavors of apples, pears and tropical fruit and tends to have bright acidity that lends itself well to pairing with spicy foods.

Adam LaZarre, while he is officially the winemaker for Villa San-Juliette Winery (and formerly from Hahn Estates and their affiliated labels) has been making super-premium, limited quantity wines for years and has elevated his skill to an art form. Always an operative favorite, this wine is well worth tasting.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Light, pale and crystal clear straw yellow with very subtle greenish tints that turn nearly clear along the edges. When swirled, thin random legs ring the glass before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Bright and focused aromas of stone and tropical fruit along with tart citrus lead off with a touch of green grass and herbal notes and a slight touch of smoke.

Feel – Restrained and lean, this youthful medium bodied dry wine has racy acidity with a touch of minerality that lingers into the finish.

Taste – Clean and crisp with this wine’s tropical and citrus fruit dancing over the palate while its subtle green herb and grass, mineral notes and hints of smoke linger just underneath.

Finish – Long and clean, this vibrant wine lingers with bright tropical and citrus fruit flavors and tart acidity and mineral texture.

Conclusion – The 2009 LaZarre Wines Edna Valley San Luis Obisbo Sauvignon Blanc is a fresh and youthful wine that is the perfect aperitif for fresh or raw seafood. Its bright tropical and citrus fruit greets you on the nose and lingers long into the finish. Enjoy this wine now or cellar for a couple years to give it some time to further develop.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Adam LaZarre, AKA Agent Orange

WINE EDUCATION: Fresno State University Bachelor of Science Enology

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker/Director of Operations at Villa San-Juliette Winery. Consulting Winemaker for Hearst Ranch Winery. Former VP of Winemaking at Hahn Estates, several Central Coast wineries over the past two decades

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: People drink wine in good times and in bad, therefore, always make your wine taste expensive

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Anything worth doing is worth overdoing…”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Under my label? November,2004 – LaZarre 2003 Bien Nacido Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Adam – AKA Agent Orange. We are thrilled to be showing your 2009 Edna Valley Sauvignon Blanc today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ORANGE: Dude. Always a pleasure to chat with a real secret agent.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ORANGE: Yup. Well, several. I can think of a number of wines that changed my paradigm about wine at various times throughout my life. 1970 Lynch-Bages my dad had in the cellar, 1977 Graham’s Vintage Port, 1986 J. Phelps Insignia, 1985 Beringer Knights Valley Cab, and a particular late 80’s Chardonnay from Western Australia…the name escapes me.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ORANGE: The late Don Blackburn, former winemaker at Bernardus taught me of the importance of mouthfeel. Barry Gnekow, consultant and former J. Lohr winemaker taught me the importance of always overdelivering in every bottle, all the time. Rick Boyer (Jekel/Blackstone), Paul Clifton (Hahn Estates), and Christian Rougenant (Tangent/Baileyanna) have all added something to my technique and style.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

ORANGE: Companies? Villa San-Juliette Winery, Hearst Ranch Winery, my own brand. I make wine for the consumers. I make wine the owners are proud to take to a party. For me and my wife’s label, I make a wine that we can drink at home without getting bored of it.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

ORANGE: Its a Sauvignon Blanc from the Paragon Vineyards in the Edna Valley appellation. I have always wanted to focus on Sauvignon Blanc as it is truly a difficult wine to make correctly. Edna Valley is probably my favorite appellation for the varietal as wines made from this appellation routinely contain a melange of varietally correct flavors and aromas – gooseberry, grass, grapefruit, melon.

The grapes were tank fermented very slowly, then taken down to neutral French barrels for extended lees aging for about 9 months. Secondary fermentation was inhibited so although there is a considerable amount of mouthfeel, the fruit flavors are pure and pronounced with a very racy acidity underscoring the whole affair.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ORANGE: Oh man. Easy. Steamed clams in butter, garlic, and white wine with a little parsley and a few bacon bits tossed in. Damn.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Central Coast and Edna Valley in particular so special?

ORANGE: Virtually all I do is from the Central Coast of California. There are soooo many challenges that really excite me as a winemaker. As for Edna Valley, the direct ocean influence makes for an insanely long growing season so flavors are extreme, acids are pronounced, and pH is low. But, everything always seems so in balance.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ORANGE: Building it. We have this gorgeous facility on 132 acres (Villa San-Juliette) with two 3,000 sq/ft winery buildings that have just gone in. Next step is to load it up with equipment and a tasting room. I’m getting tired of making all of my wines at friends’ wineries…..

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

ORANGE: A glass of wine should ALWAYS leave you asking “What food would I pair with this?” It has to beg the question. It should be the first thought you have after your very first sip. I hope mine do just that. But a wine should still be complete enough to stand on its own as an aperitif.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

ORANGE: I just had a new baby girl a few weeks back. Wait. That’s redundant. A “new” baby girl? As opposed to an “old” baby girl? OK. Im still a little sleep deprived…

WHITE: Congratulations on the new addition to the LaZarre family! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Edna Valley AVA in San Luis Obisbo County can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Grove Street Winery Sonoma County Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The capital of Burgundy

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: For our deserving Operatives, secure a Black Friday allocation of a delicious and value-oriented Sonoma County Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grove Street Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 Sonoma County Pinot Noir, Dijon Clone Cuvee

Winemaker: Nancy Walker

Backgrounder: Today’s dazzling young Pinot Noir comes to us from Grove Street Winery, and Wine Spies’ favorite winemaker, Nancy Walker. Today’s wine is comprised of 62% Russian River, and 38% Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and includes Dijon Clones 114, 115, 667, and 777.

The Russian River Valley AVA, in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s.

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the 750 square mile area with the Pacific ocean on its western boundary, the San Pablo Bay to the south and Mendocino County to the north, headed inland to the other designated AVAs in Sonoma County. The region is heavily influenced by the cooler ocean climate, increased rainfall and fog that lingers long on the coastal mountains. The specific climate suits the demanding Burgundian varietals of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir very well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – This wine glistens with gorgeous ruby red hues that sustain perfect color from the clear core of the wine, right out to the edges of the glass. When swirled, the wine shows of a surface that snaps back to still, very quickly. After it settles, plump, wine-stained legs crawl steadily down the glass.

Smell – Bold in intensity with a classic cool-climate nose of bright cherry, earthy , ripe strawberry and tart raspberry. These are quickly followed by sweet mixed red flowers, brown spice, subtle white mushroom and a hint of wet wood smoke.

Feel – A cool and smooth initial attack is quickly followed by a crushed velvet feel as fine-grained tannins add a smooth dryness. Bright acidity strengthens the backbone.

Taste – Youthful, focused flavors of fresh underripe cherry, raspberry and young strawberry lead the way. Just below these sit flavors of tart fresh cranberry, red rose petals , softest sweetwood and a hint of black pepper and soft smoke.

Finish – Long lasting with complex lingering flavors (and aromas) of dark cherry, raspberry, earth, sweetwood and black pepper that linger on the wine’s acid and tannic structure.

Conclusion – The 2009 Sonoma County Pinot Noir, Dijon Clone Cuvee is an exciting, youthful and delicious wine that is drinking well now – and promises to keep improving over time. This wine is bright, bold and delicious, with a deep nose and a complex, focused palate of red fruit and spice, with earthen components that add to the overall intrigue of the wine. Decant for best results and pair with a spicy meat dish of lamb, pork or beef.

Mission Report:

Busy working her magic in the winery of late, Nancy Walker was unable to sit down for an interview for today’s wine. Please be sure to stay tuned for any future Grove Street wine sales here, as we’ll be sure to secure a future interview with Nancy.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Grove Street Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Iron Horse Vineyards Ocean Reserve

Mission Codename: I Am Giving… I Am Thankful

Operative: Agent Sparkle & Agent Sass

Objective: Find a sparkling wine that we can all be thankful for.

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Iron Horse Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Ocean Reserve

Winemaker: David Munksgard

Backgrounder:

Iron Horse Vineyards, so say named for the train stop in Sonoma’s Green Valley, is famous for adhering to the strict methode champenoise on its classic and delicious sparking gems. Sonoma County Green Valley AVA is located on the western edge of the Russian River Valley and is separately designated. Its cooler climate and distinct sandy soil is ideal for sparkling wine as is exemplified in today’s featured wine. Today’s selection is 100% Chardonnay, like a Blanc de Blancs, literally ‘white of whites’, made famous in Champagne is a sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. Too often drunk young, these classic sparkling wines need time to develop their full aroma and flavor characteristics.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Crystal clear pale straw yellow with pale edges. When poured a fine mouse lingers for a moment giving way to tiny restrained bubbles that gracefully swirl to the surface of the wine.

Smell – Clean and pure fruit notes of tart citrus and granny smith apples with a hint of toasty vanilla and a very subtle green and smoke component begs for a sip.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this wine’s restrained effervescence in its looks deceives as the second you take a sip this wine excitedly dances over the palate. Racy acidity and soft textured minerality enhances the elegant mouth fee.

Taste – Like the nose, this classic sparkler has pure and crisp but delicate notes of tart green apple and citrus, including subtle notes of Meyer lemon and ripe Key lime and tart Granny Smith Apple, hover over notes of vanilla toast, a touch of green herb.

Finish – This sparkling wine finishes extremely clean, smooth and crisp, lingering for at least a minute begging for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Iron Horse Vineyards Ocean Reserve is a fantastic sparking wine that easily rivals some of our favorite Premier Cru Champagne. Beautiful in the glass with graceful bubbles and a light golden color, approachable aromas and palate that is beyond delight. Clean and crisp flavors screams finesse and elegance. This wine is perfect for all your holiday celebrations or simply a quiet romantic evening in front of a roaring fire. Pair with any fresh seafood, but we were tempted to shuck a few oysters with this fantastic wine.

Agent Sass’ Tasting Notes:

With the holidays now here, a classy bottle of bubbly goes a long way! This limited selection from Iron Horse winery is both beautifully pale in color, and sparkles so radiantly with its tiny effervescent bubbles. One needn’t break the bank for some stylish New Year’s celebrations to be had, as this crisp and elegant wine matches up to the best of the best! With a subtle hint of vanilla hitting the tongue, this sparkling Chardonnay will have each and every guest delighted, as its tingling and festive appeal, coupled with its smooth finish, allow all to experience the full loveliness of what a sparkling wine should truly be about! Without question, Iron Horse has produced an exceptional sparkling wine, and the flavors (which come alive inside the mouth), exude pure elegance! (see below for Agent Sass’ complete bio.)

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DAVID MUNKSGARD: Iron Horse 2005 Ocean Reserve is a limited production vintage Blanc de Blancs created in partnership with National Geographic with a unique dosage designed by Washington D.C. chef Barton Seaver, Esquire 2009 Chef of the year, now a National Geographic Fellow and champion of sustainable seafood. The flavors are bright, crisp, and exciting, expressing Iron Horse’s proximity to the ocean. It really speaks to how the ocean affects the special taste and quality of our Sparklings. Only 1,000 cases were produced and we now have under 200 cases remaining.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DAVID: Oysters! Raw, freshly shucked oysters on the half shell. There’s a recipe for smoked oyster stuffing for Thanksgiving, as well as other mouth water suggestions, to pair with Ocean Reserve on the National Geographic website: http://ocean.nationalgeographic.com/ocean/missionblue/iron-horse-wine

RED: In your opinion, what makes your growing region so special?

DAVID: Our special growing region is called Green Valley. It is the coolest, foggiest part of the Russian River. Our special growing region is called Green Valley. It is the coolest, foggiest part of the Russian River. There is a direct relationship between the ocean and our special micro-climate at Iron Horse … especially the fog, which come to us from the gap in coast range (the Petaluma Gap) and allows us to make Sparking Wines on this level of finesse.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Green Valley in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

About Agent Sass:

Agent Sass, currently a resident of New England, is a bond girl to the Nth degree! Speaking multiple languages, feasting on exotic game meats, drinking exclusively red wines – but for the occasional bubbly or Zind Humbrecht white – and having an affinity for leather trousers and “high fashion” shoes; Agent Sass produced an edgy wine etiquette DVD: www.sassfrommyglass.com. She has enjoyed wine with her dinner nightly, since age 10, and taught extemporaneous speaking to college students prior to today. While drinking copious reds, Agent Sass raises very pampered Cocker Spaniels and prepares all of their gourmet food from scratch. Despite her luscious crush on Malbecs, her favorite wine is tied between Ghost Horse Cabernet & Screaming Eagle Cabernet – still a delicious “menage a trois” for Sass, while she determines which it is, that truly hits the spot best for her!

2005 Maloy O’Neill Vineyards Essere Grato

Mission Codename: The Expression of Gratitude

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Maloy O’Neill, in Paso Robles, procure Shannon O’Neill’s outstanding 2005 Essere Grato, a superb blend of Aglianico, Sangiovese and Syrah.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maloy O’Neill

Wine Subject: 2005 Maloy O’Neill Essere Grato, Paso Robles

Winemaker: Shannon O’Neill

Backgrounder: Paso Robles has long been established as a wine producing region that give other California regions a run for their money. With a climate and soils that make for perfect growing conditions for grapes, it is no wonder. Winemakers in Paso are a somewhat unique breed, often declaring themselves to be the renegades of Cali wine. A meeting with Shannon O’Neill, winemaker and owner of Maloy O’Neill affirms this sentiment. A warm, excited and deeply passionate man, Shannon makes wines that reflect his personality. Join Agent Red as he visits Shannon – and returns with an exclusive supply cache of Shannon’s inspiring 2005 Maloy O’Neill Essere Grato, a delicious blend of 45% Aglianico, 45% Sangiovese and 10% Syrah, for our O’Neill-loving Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful deep ruby hues with a slightly darker heart, and concentrated color out to the edge of the glass. Skinny, wine-stained legs crisscross their way down the glass after a good swirl.

Smell – Dark red candied cherry mixes with a heady blend of cedar, raspberry, blackberry, bramble, fresh fennel, earth and a hint of strawberry jam.

Feel – Initially cool and light across the front palate. Then, as fine grained tannins work their magic, a mineral-rich dryness slowly emerges, drying the cheeks and puckering the lips.

Taste – Delicious and flavor-filled with bright cherry, jammy raspberry and cranberry leading the way. These red flavors are soon joined by young strawberry, sweetwoods and subtle hints of red plum and soft mineral-rich black pepper.

Finish – Long and flavorful, leading with red fruit gradually revealing dark fruit, sweetwoods and a hint of minerals and black pepper.

Conclusion – True to its name, this wine provides much to be grateful for! The nose is one that our tasting panel found itself enjoying for a long while before ever taking a first sip. The bouquet is intriguing and layered with wonderful aromas, including a unique fresh fennel aromatic that is only present on the nose (and not the palate). Flavors are delicious, unique and luxurious. The feel is supple and balanced, and the wine drinks like a finer Chianti. The wines fine acidity makes it an easy and flexible food companion. Enjoy this wine now, with your favorite pasta dishes, antipasti or grilled meats. Way to go, Shannon! We Wine Spies are grateful to know you!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Shannon O’Neill

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Fermentation Science, U.C.Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 1982-Present, Vice President, Vineyard Operations, O’Neill Vineyards, Paso Robles, CA; 1999-Present, President, Winemaker, Maloy O’Neill Vineyards, Paso Robles, CA; 2005- Present, Wine Production Consultant For Various Start Up Wineries on the Central Coast of California.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Making great wine while developing one on one customer relationships.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “I love making big, extracted, intense varietal character wines, and lots of them”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1999

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Shannon. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Essere Grato today. Every time we feature your wines, our Operatives love them. You’ve become very popular among our covert wine lovers. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SHANNON: The pleasure is all mine!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SHANNON: I think my horticulture class in the 5th grade, started my love for growing things. That developed into growing grapes when my family purchased 180 acres in Paso Robles in 1980. My sister convinced me to go to UC Davis because they needed winemakers for the new developing wine industry in the early 1980’s. She was in her 2nd year as a Viticulture major and I had just graduated high school and had plans to take over my father’s medical practice. My efforts to get into a premed university were daunting despite my great GPA and SAT scores. My sister suggested I sign up for the Fermentation Science Program at Davis which was the exact same first two years curriculum as a premed Biology major consisting of basically, lots of math and science. She told after your second year, transferring to a pre-med school would be very easy at that point. She was right, because there were only 13 students that signed up that year, and I slid right in. The only thing she was wrong about was, once I found out how cool being a winemaker was, med school was out!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SHANNON: Making Cabernet Sauvignon is the Holy Grail of winemaking. Cabernet has always been the backbone of my winemaking style and the history of my wines. Thank god, O’Neill Vineyards has been a never ending supply of high quality fruit for this endeavor!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SHANNON: Making Cabernet Sauvignon is the Holy Grail of winemaking. Cabernet has always been the backbone of my winemaking style and the history of my wines. Our two estate vineyards has always been a source of high quality fruit for this endeavor!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

SHANNON: I am the winemaker for our two estate brands, Maloy O’Neill Vineyards and O’Neill Vineyards and have been a production consultant and have done custom crush work for many small startup wineries on the central coast.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

SHANNON: Of all the blends I made in ‘05 (seven I think…), the Essere Grato is without a doubt the most unique. This was the first time I was able to
get my hands on some Aglianico, which is the native grape you would find in the same region my Great Grand-Mother (and her whole side of the family) comes from, which is Campagnia. Most people are familiar with Sangiovese, and I found these two grapes (with a kiss of Syrah to round out the mid palate) absolutely complemented each other. Both Aglianico and Sangiovese are high acid and high tannin varietals, but they offer such different fruit profiles (the Sangiovese more red fruit driven and the Aglianico more black fruit driven). When I added the Syrah, I could not believe how harmonious the wine turned out – definitely a standout among this superb vintage…

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SHANNON: Pasta of course! This is what I call My Pizza and Pasta wine, but it pretty much goes good with everything. It goes well with turkey too!

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Paso Region so special?

SHANNON:Paso Robles is unique because of its high diurnal temperature flux and great diversity in soil make up, from area to area. In the growing season, it will be in the mid 90’s during the day and in the 50’s at night. This radical temperature flux creates a wonderful sugar/acid balance that allows the vines in Paso Robles to become physiologically mature before harvest lending to the bigger style reds coming out of the area and a big part of our wineries success. Also, Paso is home to big red wines, and unpretentious tasting rooms – where you can meet the owners and winemakers, great restaurants, inexpensive hotels and just and overall good bang for your buck.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SHANNON: Finishing harvest, pressing out remaining lots of fermenting wines, and bottling.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

SHANNON: I make 36 different wines a year so I have a huge portfolio of many different styles and varietals to choose from. There is literally something for everyone. But if your one of those wine drinkers that like big, huge, extracted, intense varietal character reds, than you’re going to love my wines, because that is what I specialize in, and that is where my passion is! The Fremere is delicate dinner wine, that goes good with most foods, but I have many wines that are quaffing wines only, that can be served as the meal, so whatever style you like, go through the list on our website, and I promise you will find what you’re looking for!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

SHANNON: I would just like to thank all of you for your unending support, and also the wine spies who do a wonderful job at picking wines that are unique and of interest to people who are looking for something more than what is available on the supermarket shelves. The Spies have consistently choose wines from all the different wineries they feature, that are worth checking out, and they also expose wineries who do not have worldwide distribution to and audience that might never get a chance to try new and exciting wines from small mom and pop wineries from many different regions! I welcome all of you to come to Paso Robles to see all the great things going on here, and if you do! Please visit us and say hello. For all of those who take me up on my offer, just mention you’re from the Spies and we will give you an extra discount on all wines and waive your tasting fees! Thank you again, and hope to see you soon!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

SHANNON: Thank you and all your customers for your loyal support over the years and enjoy Maloy O’Neill wines.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maloy O’Neill Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Thumbprint Cellars Gallaway Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The return of the Red Thumb

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to old-time favorite, Thumbprint Cellars, secure an exclusive allocation of their superb Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Thumbprint Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley Gallaway Vineyard

Winemaker: Scott Lindstrom-Dake

Backgrounder: The Dry Creek Valley AVA in northeastern Sonoma (north of Healdsburg) county is somewhat warmer and wetter than the Russian River Valley AVA region just to the south and the Alexander Valley AVA just to the east. The warmer and wetter climate provides great versatility with regard to the types of grapes that can be effectively cultivated in the region.

Today’s superb wine comes from the Gallaway Vineyard, a sustainably farmed vineyard that produces expressive and superb Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest inky purple, with a deep and nearly-black core, the wine shows remarkable concentration, right out the the very edge of the glass. Fat, color-stained tears start high on the glass before they march very slowly downward.

Smell – Bold and aromatic with rich dark cherry, blackberry, fresh blueberry, redwood bark, plum and soft allspice.

Feel – A medium bodied feel on entry quickly leads to a more full-bodied feel, with a plush crushed-velvet feel that quickly spreads throughout the entire palate. Eventually, a flinty minerality adds a soft dryness, retaining the darker flavors of the wine.

Taste – Concentrated and bold with wonderfully balanced red and black fruits. The wine shows off deepest dark cherry, ripe blackberry, cranberry, red plum and Bing cherry. These slowly yield to a dry minerality that seems to retain the darker flavors of the wine for a long time. As the fruit flavors taper, soft cedar, black pepper and remain for a long time.

Finish – Ultra-long and flavor-filled, this wine takes forever to release its full compliment of rich flavors. Toward the end, as stated above, red and black fruit yield to minerals which, in turn, yield to cedar and spice.

Conclusion – Wow and wow! This is a big Dry Creek Valley Cabernet that is absolutely bursting with flavor. Be sure to decant for best results. We tasted the wine on opening, and then again after an hour. The difference was remarkable. On opening, the wine drinks a little hot, with alcohol interfering with the delicious fruit that, just one hour later, absolutely leaps from the wine. We have always been big fans of Thumbprint wines and we are very pleased to be showcasing today’s exceptional 2006 Gallaway Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon today. Rich with flavor, bold on the nose and with an extraordinarily long finish, this is a big Cab that gives its Napa rivals and real run for their money. Serve with a pepper-crusted roast, a grilled steak, or nearly any other big, bold meal. If you love big, balanced Cabernet, please do not miss out on this opportunity to enjoy this really superb wine from Thumbprint Cellars!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Scott Lindstrom-Dake

WINE EDUCATION: School of Hard Knocks

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Chateau Stucco, Pezzi King, F. Teldeschi, thumbprint cellars

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Find the BEST grapes you can and DON’T screw it up

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Winemaker’s should come with warning labels”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: October, 2002

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Scott. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Gallaway Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SCOTT: I neither confirm nor deny that statement.

RED: That’s the spirit! Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SCOTT: When I was 10 years old, being the youngest in the family, I was assigned the task of opening all the wine for the family dinners. Of course, I HAD to taste it to make sure it was ok to serve. By age 12 I was helping with wine and food pairings, suggesting wines from better vintages and suggesting aging potential for certain wines.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SCOTT: There are several. Matanzas Creek merlot’s from the early ‘90’s, hearty Dry Creek zinfandel’s and Sonoma County’s sub-appellation cabernet sauvignon’s excite me most but I enjoy all well-made wines.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

SCOTT: I make wine to drink myself. Sometimes I even share whatever is left.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

SCOTT: This is a chewy Dry Creek Valley Hillside cabernet sauvignon. The grapes come from the Western Ridge of this appellation, Gallaway Vineyard. It is blended with about 3% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. I use only 10% new French oak barrels and fill in the rest with 2-4 year old French oak barrels.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SCOTT: I would try this with rack of lamb with mint jelly.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

SCOTT: Dry Creek Valley is rich with diversity. The soil conditions and weather really drive the varietal and the vintage will express unique character.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SCOTT: I’ve been trying to get a kegerator to store our beer. It takes a lot of beer to make good wine! Between the assistant winemaker and the cellar masturbator the CRV on bottles is killin’ my beer budget. Other than that, we’re getting the 2010 wines through Malo-lactic fermentation, racking them off their lees and getting them ready for hibernation.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

SCOTT: I love to experience how my wines evolve from the time they are poured into my glass until I sip the last taste. I never recommend any of the aerators, rather, I prefer to awaken the wines by swirling and a little patience.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

SCOTT: I’ve been told I have to keep my clothes on in public. Other than that I hope you will all follow me through my wine blog as I spend the next three months in Tuscany, Italy. I will be exploring small family owned organic wineries, tasting through their wines and writing about them at our website. I will be sure to include some fun video, pictures and non-wine related adventures as well. Salute’!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Dry Creek region can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Alma Rosa Winery Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Transcendent

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red to the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, in Santa Barbara County, to retrieve a stellar Pinot Noir for our exacting Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Alma Rosa

Wine Subject: 2008 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Christian Roguenant

Backgrounder: The Sta. Rita Hills AVA, located within Santa Barbara County and almost entirely in the Santa Ynez Valley was established in 2001 and is considered one of California’s best regions for growing the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay due to its cooler climate. The AVA’s weather is heavily influenced by cool coastal breezes and persistent Pacific fog. Just less than 200 acres in the AVA are under vine. Interestingly, the name of the appellation was changed from Santa Rita Hills to Sta. Rita Hills so as to not conflict with Chilean powerhouse winery Vina Santa Rita.

Alma Rosa has the distinction of being the first winery to be featured in the Merlot-killing and Pinot-promoting feature film, Sideways. More important than all that, though, is the fact that this fantastic winery is headed by Richard Sanford, the undisputed father of Pinot Noir in the region. Richard was the first to plant Pinot in the Sta. Rita Hills (then, the Santa Ynez Valley), more than 40 years ago. His mission was simple: Make Pinot Noir that rivals the best French Burgundies. We say, Mission Accomplished, Richard! Your Pinot Noir is, quite simply, amazing.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Gorgeous ruby hued, with perfect clarity through its slightly darker core – and out to the fine pink edge. After a good swirl, tall columns of thin legs saunter slowly down the glass. The color of the legs closely mirrors the pink color at the edge of the glass.

Smell – Bold, warm aromatics leap from the glass. The wine leads with sweet fresh raspberry, young strawberry and dark cherry. These sit atop fleshy, under-ripe green fig, mushroom, violets and supple brown leather. After some swirling, earth and a hint of soft brown spice are subtle and welcome additions.

Feel – Plush, soft, round and voluptuous on entry. Slowly, fine grained tannins cause a softly spreading dryness that moves outward from the center of the palate, eventually drying the lips and cheeks. As the dryness encroaches, bright acidity emerges, making the mouth water – and long for another sip.

Taste – Delicious red fruit of Bing cherry, raspberry, cranberry, young strawberry and red plum lead the way. Just below these, additional flavors of flinty earth, subtle tobacco leaf, crushed pink rose petals and a hint of soft spice emerge.

Finish – Long and flavor-filled, with a dynamic evolution that changes, leading with red fruit and then going slightly darker. Then, as a soft dryness spreads, minerals and spice emerge – just before a bright acidity takes over, making the mouth water.

Conclusion – One sip of this wine affirms that Richard Sanford deserves his reputation as the Pinot King of Santa Barbara County. Today’s 2008 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir is a delicious and exciting wine that was born of two of Richard’s organically farmed Pinot Noir vineyards, the La Encantada and El Jabalí vineyards. These two vineyard sources provide grapes for Alma Rosa’s more expensive single vineyard Pinots, but we marvel at the amazing combination that bore today’s expressive and delicious wine. Pair this flexible food-lover with nearly anything you care to throw its way. Drinking exceptionally well for a young wine, we see great promise still to come. enjoy some now, cellar some away – if you can restrain yourself!

Mission Report:

WINERY OWNER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Richard Sanford, founder

WINE EDUCATION: Experience, founder of 1970 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, 1981 Sanford Winery, 1983 El Jabalí Vineyard, 2000 La Encantada Vineyard, 2005 Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winegrowing for 40 years, planted first grapes in Sta. Rita Hills Appellation.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balance and elegance more important than impact. Traditional Burgundian methods.

QUOTE: “We all need to be sensitive toward our impact on the environment.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1976

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INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mister Sanford. It is a true honor to be interviewing you, today. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RICHARD SANFORD: You are welcome, it is my pleasure.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RICHARD: 1966 introduced to a beautiful Volnay from Burgundy

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RICHARD: Vincent Leflaive (Chardonnay), Jacques Seysses (Pinot Noir)

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RICHARD: My own palate.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RICHARD: 2008 Pinot Noir, all grapes from La Encantada Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills Appellation. Entirely from certified organic grapes. Bright acid, raspberry nose, full middle body and long finish.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RICHARD: Duck, turkey, lamb, mushroom dishes.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Sta. Rita Hills AVA so special?

RICHARD: Transverse mountain range of California trends east to west, open to the ocean in the west. The region enjoys cool maritime growing climate perfect for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RICHARD: Preparing 2009 Pinot Noir for bottling, always focusing on wine sales.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RICHARD: With no intimidation and preconception. Bright acids of our cool growing climate create wines excellent with food.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RICHARD: Please come visit us at the winery. Our tasting room is five miles west of Highway 101, in the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County. Open 11am to 4:30pm daily.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

RICHARD: Thank you.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Alma Rosa Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Vincent Gaudry ‘Le Tournebride’ Sancerre

Mission Codename: The Little Room

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire an exclusive and delicious Sancerre for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Vincent Gaudry

Wine Subject: 2008 ‘Le Tournebride’ Sancerre AOC

Winemaker: Vincent Gaudry

Backgrounder:

The central vineyards of the Loire Valley is Sauvignon Blanc country with arguably among the best examples of the varietal being molded into the world’s best wines. The Sancerre AOC appellation sits on the western side of the Loire River across from Pouilly Fumé. The white wines of Sancerre must be 100% Sauvignon Blanc and are heavily influenced by the Terroir with its limestone, flint and marls composition. Classic Sancerre is bone dry with a redolent nose and vibrant flavors.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Crystal clear straw yellow with subtle golden hues that becomes more pale along the edges. When swirled, the slightly springy wine clings to the side of the glass before forming random slow legs that descend to the wine below.

Smell – Fresh in intensity with bright and fresh aromas of citrus and green stone fruit with flinty mineral notes of wet stone, and hints of subtle green grass and herbs and hints of orange blossom flowers.

Feel – Smooth and dry, with good weight, this medium bodied wine’s fresh fruit provides a slight touch of sweetness. Dry and crisp otherwise, with lively but balanced acidity and soft minerality.

Taste – Fresh and balanced with tart citrus and stone fruit, specifically Meyer lemon, lychee, and soft ripe peach is layered over flinty slate minerality and subtle hints of herbal grass and green herbs.

Finish – Clean, refreshing and crisp, this wine’s vibrant acidity, flinty minerality and good weight holds the fruit and other flavors perfectly as it gently fades and begs another sip.

Conclusion – The 2008 Vincent Gaudry ‘Le Tournebride’ Sancerre AOC is a delicious and fresh Sancerre that shows Sauvignon Blanc in its most simple beauty and finesse. Vibrant on the nose and palate with clean crisp fruit and its signature mentality makes this wine a perfect pair for oysters on the half shell. Initially a little tight, be sure to give this wine time to fully reveal its character.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Vincent Gaudry

WINE EDUCATION: My elders!

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Farmer : Wine-grower, Wine-maker, Businessman/Marketing

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Trust in nature

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1997

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Vincent. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 ‘Le Tournebride’ Sancerre today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

VINCENT: My pleasure, thanks for featuring my organic and bio-dynamic wine.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

VINCENT: Yes, nature’s power to turn grape juice into wine.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

VINCENT: My spiritual father…

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

VINCENT: For my fellow man, the imbiber.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

VINCENT: It’s expressive and fresh with aromas of preserved fruits; full and long on the palate with pronounced minerality.

WHITE:What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

VINCENT: A snack of fresh goat cheese and bread.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Sancerre AOC so special?

VINCENT: Its site, its soil, its subsoil, its climate, its history and its people.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

VINCENT: Following the fermentation.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

VINCENT: As humbly as possible.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

VINCENT: Wine is happiness, a moment of pleasure, of sharing, of conviviality, and of coming-together…

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Vincent Gaudry in the Loire Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.