2004 Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G.

Mission Codename: Deep Roots In The Past

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional and seductive 2004 Brunello di Montalcino

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Azienda Agricola Fornacina

Wine Subject: 2004 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Winemaker: Atilio Pagli

Backgrounder:

Brunello di Montalcino occupies a special place in the hearts of all Wine Spies. Coming from a very distinct and designated (DOCG – officially designated in 1967 as one of Italy’s first DOC classified wines) region in Tuscany about 70 miles south of Florence, Brunellos typically are the best wines produced from the Sangiovese grape. By regulation, Brunellos must be produced by using a 100% Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape, hence the mystic and lore of this exceptional wine. Typically, Brunellos are among the most expensive Italian wines, which is why today’s wine is such an exceptional offering.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – With the color of dark cherry juice, this wine’s clear core shows its well developed bring and reddish brown hues when held to the light. Along the edges the color becomes red brick and when swirled evenly spaced thin legs are followed by slower fat tears that cling to the side of the glass.

Smell – Rich and redolent upon pulling the cork with ripe and earthy red Italian cherry leading the way. Once this wine opens up you’re greeted with a complex and well integrated blend of savory herbs, exotic spice including cloves and cinnamon, soft oak and hints of floral dried lavender.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this full-bodied wine has elegant finely textured tannins and racy tangy acidity that lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Old world in character with tangy but also restrained dark ripe cherry, dried plum and raisins that are perfectly integrated with a very complex blend of the aromas found on the nose. Earthy hints blend with the exotic spice and savory herbs all framed with a smokey and toasty oak component.

Finish – Clean and long with this wines tangy cherry lingers for several minutes with its spice and herb notes.

Conclusion – The beautiful 2004 Agricola Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is truly a special and unique wine that shows great complexity from the first sniff through to the last lingering taste. Decant this wine if you are going to enjoy it now or cellar for the next decade. We paired this wine with a classic Mediterranean plate of antipasto but be sure to check out Agent Sass’s food pairing below.

Agent Sass’s Review and Food Pairing:

With seductive color, of polished brick mixed with vibrant cranberry, this Brunello is clearly a holiday wine! The accents of smoke and cinnamon are apparent in the nose, lending to the image of a crackling fireplace, a room full of dinner guests, and the warmth and majestic flavors of this season! After time, this lovely wine’s ambrosial notes deepen well, and the essence of dark cherry engulfs one’s palate beautifully, lingering right through to the finish. Clearly a Roquefort cheese and pâté topped hunk of rustic bread, would pair sensationally with this “must have” for Thanksgiving!

About Agent Sass:

Agent Sass, currently a resident of New England, is a bond girl to the Nth degree! Speaking multiple languages, feasting on exotic game meats, drinking exclusively red wines – but for the occasional bubbly or Zind Humbrecht white – and having an affinity for leather trousers and “high fashion” shoes; Agent Sass produced an edgy wine etiquette DVD: www.sassfrommyglass.com. She has enjoyed wine with her dinner nightly, since age 10, and taught extemporaneous speaking to college students prior to today. While drinking copious reds, Agent Sass raises very pampered Cocker Spaniels and prepares all of their gourmet food from scratch. Despite her luscious crush on Malbecs, her favorite wine is tied between Ghost Horse Cabernet & Screaming Eagle Cabernet – still a delicious “menage a trois” for Sass, while she determines which it is, that truly hits the spot best for her!

Mission Report:

WINERY INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mauro Biliorsi, Owner

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Mauro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2004 Brunello di Montalcino today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MAURO: Thank you for featuring our beautiful Brunello di Montalcino.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MAURO: We have a written record where the great grandfather of my father (Roger Biliorsi) in 1922 informed the supervisory authority of that time, the sale of a small amount of wine. That is to say that the production of wine is a family tradition with deep roots in the past. And in general, the wines produced in Montalcino were written about in ancient texts dating back to the 1200’s

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MAURO: It is not possible to compare Brunello di Montalcino to other wines. Let it suffice to say that it is the only Italian DOCG wine label produced with only a single type of grape: Sangiovese. The Sangiovese in Montalcino, thanks to the special microclimate and soil, gives us a wine with unique characteristics that cannot be reproduced elsewhere.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

MAURO: My grandfather produced the wine for family use, but my father in 1981 decided to “professionalize” the production for it to become a business. The facts proved him right, from a few hundred bottles produced in 1981, after 30 years we have reached an average production of 20 to 25,000 bottles, broken down by type and vintage Brunello, Brunello Riserva (only in exceptional years) and Montalcino Rosso . Our cellar has been completely renovated, which allows us to work to exploit the full potential of our grapes and achieve better results.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MAURO: With regard to our wine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004 we can say that this is a great vintage. In fact, in Montalcino, the weather had a “best year” in 2004. Rain and sunshine alternated in order to have a perfectly good grape production that came easily to maturity in the regular time and manner and with the right balance of trace elements. Having had the chance to harvest of healthy grapes, with fully ripe berries, and pulp containing a good balanced, there were good conditions to produce a wine with special characteristics. Our wine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004, can count among our top vintages, a wine with a brilliant ruby red color with garnet, with a strong structure, and a well-balanced acidity. Full, persistent with a long finish.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MAURO: With an important wine, an important dish. We recommend red meat (pork, wild boar), venison, grilled meats and cheeses in general. It ‘important to pour the wine into a decanter before drinking it to oxygenate it or uncork the bottle at least 4-5 hours before. In any case, the ideal temperature is between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Montalcino region so special?

MAURO: There is no doubt that the territory of Montalcino is a very special area. The microclimate, soils, exposure to the sun and the winds make this area truly special. In fact, climatic conditions and excellence in the production of wine it is spoken about in the writings of the Middle Ages. The finding of well-preserved archeological sites where human presence is demonstrated in the era before Christ’s birth and even in prehistoric times demonstrates that, Montalcino, is an area that has always been noticed by man.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MAURO: At this time, after the harvest, we are at the stage of fermentation (stage where the “grape must” is transformed into wine through the process that turn sugar into alcohol) and in the coming days will proceed to the “racking” operation in open stainless steel tanks where the wine was made, proceeding or separate the wine from the “dregs” (skins of grapes that have a key role in the ‘supply of color, trace elements and polyphenols).

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

MAURO: All of our wines are produced using traditional methods while also employing extremely modern instrumental devices. Therefore, they are long-aging wines that have a tendency to get better over the years. We must not hurry to uncork the bottles that can be stored safely for years. In this case it is important to keep them in a horizontal position, in the dark at a cool temperature without thermal shock. In tasting the wines it is more important to begin with the younger ones first and to continue chronologically older in order to better appreciate the characteristics of each.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

MAURO: We will never tire of saying that our wines refer to the tradition of the wines of Montalcino. A recipe that has made unique and famous throughout the world the territory of Montalcino, otherwise unknown to most people, so we do not feel the need to “invent” anything new. We cannot confirm that our tendency, even today (at this time of financial difficulty around the world), continues to reward us in many points of view, confirming that our product philosophy is the right one. Tradition which comes from a constant presence in the vineyards, careful selection of grapes before the ‘beginning of maturation, low production per hectare, traditional vinification and aging exclusively in large barrels (20 to 35 hl.) made of Slovenian oak without the use of barriques. And finally,the ‘attention to detail which, added together, can make a difference.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Azienda Agricola Fornacina in the famed village of Montalcino can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Roadhouse Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: One for the Roadhouse

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Our Operatives have been clamoring for a great Zinfandel. Rendezvous with winemaker, David Noyes, and procure his latest Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Roadhouse Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Zinfandel – Dry Creek Valley

Winemaker: Eric and Eric

Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Sonoma Valley Old Vine Zinfandels, which are characterized by their refinement and balance, are extraordinarily popular with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby hued, with a slightly opaque core. At the edges of the wine, a ring of light strawberry color encircles the glass. Swirl the wine and it bounces around for a while before settling down. When it does settle, ropey legs meander down the glass.

Smell – This wine leads with a big rush of lush dark cherry, red currant and dried dark red flower petals. After some swirling, additional aromas of blackberry, cedar shavings, dried orange peel, dark spice and black pepper spring forth.

Feel – Cool and light on entry, then softly grippy on the mid-palate as crushed velvet tannins add a spreading dryness. The dryness gradually increases, spreading all around the palate, eventually giving the wine a mid-weight feel.

Taste – This wine bursts with tart black cherry, smoky cranberry, young strawberry and cassis. These flavors sit right atop brambly under-ripe boysenberry, soft cedar and black pepper spice.

Finish – Long and bright and filled with dark berry flavors. After the dryness takes hold, soft black pepper and an easy minerality gradually replace the bright red fruit.

Conclusion – This young upstart of a wine is a real treat! Bursting with bright red fruit flavors and backed by a solid feel and fresh aromas, this is a fun wine to drink. With such a bright palate, this wine lends itself to flexible pairing. Enjoy with grilled meats or a selection of dried meats and hard cheeses. Drinking beautifully now, we expect great things from this wine for the next few years. Not that we’ll be able to hold on to our bottles for much longer, though!

Mission Report:

With the 2010 Harvest and Crush currently underway, we were unable to secure an interview with either Eric. Be sure to keep an eye out for our next Roadhouse sale in the new year. Meanwhile, be sure to read our review (above) – and take some of this great Dry Creek Zin home to enjoy with your Holiday dining!

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the awesome Roadhouse Winery tasting room, in downtown Healdsburg, California, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Robert Stemmler Winery Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Spirit of Pinot Noir

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Robert Stemmler Winery, and acquire their delicious Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Robert Stemmler Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir – Russian River Valley

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting notes below for the full intel on this exciting wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Pure red cherry juice, translucent like cherry jell-o, with a bouncy surface that settles quickly when the wine is swirled. Tall legs start high up on the glass. They start slowly, then rocket downward to the surface of the wine.

Smell – Dark black cherry, bramble blackberry and earthy strawberry are the predominant notes. These sit atop earthy strawberry, raspberry and subtle aromas of tomato stem, tobacco tin, and the softest hint of mulchy earth.

Feel – Smooth and fast across the entry, then medium bodied and softly grippy, spreading a soft mineral-driven dryness from the front of the palate to the rear.

Taste – Dark black cherry, raspberry, young strawberry and green tobacco are the primary flavors. These are followed by more subtle flavors of green tobacco leaf, stewed fig, plum and black pepper.

Finish – Very long in length with the lingering smokt-tart red-fruit, earthy fig and black pepper, with a balanced acidity that adds a mouth-watering effect at the tail end.

Conclusion – This 2007 Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir is another delicious wine from our freinds at Robert Stemmler Winery. We are always dazzled by their exceptional Pinot Noir, and we impressed by the diversity and differences between their Pinots. We showcased their spectacular 2007 Carneros Pinot, earlier this year, and today’s Russian River Pinot is every bit as great. The wine shows off the terroir of the Russian River Valley – and the skills of winemaker, Kenneth Juhasz. This wine is a balanced, delicious wine in more of an old world style than the Carneros, and we loved every sip. Drinking beautifully, this wine is cellar-worthy, as well.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Kenneth Juhasz

WINE EDUCATION: Industry Learned

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Began working with Donum Estate in 2002, now consult with several California wineries and own Auteur

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Dualism, great structure while maintaining elegance.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Summer 2003 – 2002 Stemmler Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Kenneth, we are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Nugent Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KENNETH: Great to be here.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KENNETH: No, it was a series of experiences in the restaurant business where I came to understand the beauty and lifestyle of wine and the culture around it.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KENNETH: Montrachet

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

KENNETH: I make wine for the vineyard, I do everything or as little as possible to let the vineyard speak.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

KENNETH: 2007 was a terrific vintage. The Nugent Vineyard is located in Russian River Valley. Anne Moller Racke planted these 11 acres of Dijon Clones in 1997. The fruit is spectacular and opulent, juicy…a very forward wine, yet with structure to carry through to the supple finish. Think Bing cherry, cranberry and black plum and delicate traces of black tea and cloves.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KENNETH: Salmon, seared simply in olive oil, sea salt and ground pepper.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

KENNETH: Unique micro-climate creates perfect balance in our wines. The fog cools the night air keeping our acidity bright allowing for our wines to age beautifully.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KENNETH: With all of the fruit just in from the 2010 harvest, CRUSH!

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

KENNETH: Do not expect all power. Look for, and enjoy, finesse.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KENNETH: Thank you, it has been a pleasure working with you.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Robert Stemmler Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Schug Carneros Estate Sonoma Valley Merlot

Mission Codename: Winefather 2

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Schug Carneros Estate Winery and secure an ample allocation of their Sonoma Valley Merlot, a wine crafted in a distinct European style.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Schug Carneros Estate

Wine Subject: 2006 Sonoma Valley Merlot

Winemaker: Michael Cox

Backgrounder:

Walter Schug is, arguably, one of the founding fathers of California wine. When Walter came to the United States to make wines, he co-created, with Joseph Phelps, legendary California wines. Insignia was born, vaulting California – and Walter Schug – into the winemaking spotlight.

Regional Backgrounder:

Some of our favorite California wines come from the Sonoma Valley viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The diverse region provides growing conditions which are perfect for Merlot. Schug Winery is a Wine Spies favorite and we are proud to bring you today’s very special wine. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic Merlot.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A reddish brown center gives way to wide bands of lighter garnet, rust and very slight clear rim with medium legs that move steadily down the glass.

Smell – Subtle, warm aromas of red cherry, cherry cola, dried cherries, blackberry bramble, dried leaves, faint coffee grounds and a hint of dark spice.

Feel – Tender, round and smooth on the attack, with a slight mid-palate tang and a juicy acidity that follows soon after.

Taste – Right up front, this wine leads with flavors of ripe cherry, cranberry, boysenberry and dried red cherry. Just beneath these, soft notes of red licorice, plum skin and a hint of spice round out the flavors.

Finish – Long, lingering and delicious with flavors that begin sweet and then go softly tart and dusky with a wonderful earthen minerality.

Conclusion – This is an Old World-styled Merlot, which shows off the growing skills and winemaking prowess of the Schug team. With gentle tannins and a juicy but subtle acidity, this wine is juicy – but it also has subtlety. Delicious red fruit, a soft earthiness and a tender feel all combine to make this a interesting wine that offers the drinker a great experience. Walter Schug pioneered winemaking in Sonoma County – and indeed in California – and today’s Merlot is an easy-drinking example of his years of experience and skill. Pair this wine with nearly anything and, most of all, enjoy!

Mission Report:

With the 2010 harvest underway, we were unable to secure a new interview with Michael Cox, winemaker for Schug. The following is the most recent interview we conducted with Michael, in which he mentions Schug’s Syrah, and not the Merlot that we are featuring today.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Michael Cox

WINE EDUCATION: Started working in Sonoma wineries out of high school. Graduated form UC Davis in 1991

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker for Schug Winery since 1995

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY:
Don’t get to fancy, let the vines and the yeast do their stuff. Just don’t mess up what mother nature intended.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: From Tao Te Ching: “The hard and stiff will be broken, the soft and supple will prevail.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1993 Napa Valley Chardonnay from DeMoor (Napa Cellars)

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. We are thrilled to be showing your amazing 2006 Ricci Vineyard Syrah today. The wine is really wonderful. Thanks so much for the wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MICHAEL: Thanks Red, we are so happy that you continue to love our wines. We always enjoy your detail reviews – and these sit-downs!

RED: The pleasure is all ours, I assure you. How long have you been making wine?

MICHAEL: My first job in a wine cellar was when I was 19. I got a summer job working at Hacienda Wine Cellars (pre Bronco – then family owned by the Cooleys).

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MICHAEL: Not sure if it is specific, but that summer of 1987, working on the bottling line, cleaning barrels, driving all over Sonoma County sampling vineyards, long wide ranging conversations on music and farming with the winemaker, Eric Laumann all combined to sell me on the idea that growing and making wine would afford me the ability to continue to live in Sonoma Valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. Tough one. I spent my formative years from 1987 -1991 at Hacienda, a year at Dry Creek Vineyards, got my first‘Winemaker’ job at Napa Cellars/DeMoor, and have spent coming on 14 years here at Schug with Walter. I’d probably have to say my time at Napa Cellars. I was 25 and they gave me the keys and said ‘drive’. I learned to get things done, not to waste time or money, and how to pull together a wine from vineyard to bottle. For all the talk of art, it is also a big logistics game.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MICHAEL: I’ll happily steal from Robert Mondavi here: ‘The first glass of wine should invite the second.’ I don’t like flabby, heavy, ponderous wines. I want brightness and zip. Elegance is foremost.

RED: Walter Schug is a legend in the wine business. How has he influenced you?

MICHAEL: Walter has been, and continues to be a mentor. I am very fortunate that Walter saw in me someone with the kernel of his own winemaking style that he could nurture and develop. He is a font of knowledge that I can tap into at any time. With just about any situation he’s seen it in his own experience here, at Gallo, or as consultant, at least twice.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MICHAEL: We already talked about Walter being a mentor, but Eric Laumann, who gave me my first job was also very important. He certainly instilled a confidence in myself and the wines that make. He also is a reminder to not
take yourself too seriously, just the wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MICHAEL: Myself foremost. Plan D is always to just drink it all ourselves, so it better be good.

AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MICHAEL: What we have here is our 2006 Carneros Syrah. It comes from the Ricci Vineyard. Dale Ricci is one of our main growers (along with Dave Iund and the Sangiacomo Family). One day he offered us a few tons of Syrah to see if we were interested. Given Walter’s history in producing the first varietal Syrah ever in California when he was Winemaker at Joseph Phelps over in Napa, Axel was keen to go and gave me the green light. I am a fan of Côte Rotie and Hermitage, so I was game to go.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MICHAEL: Well, if I am eating meat, a grilled pork loin with potatoes, if not a hearty mushroom paella. The wine has a lot of weight, but has structure to compliment it.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Carneros region so special?

MICHAEL: There are two main influences in Carneros – the San Pablo Bay and the wind of the Petaluma Gap. Being down on the bay, we have a milder winter – budbreak starts earlier here than the rest of Sonoma Valley (or even Sonoma County). It also means that a marine layer and/or fog is often around making a cooler morning. We usually doesn’t see the sun until after 10am, sometimes noon. The wind comes in the afternoons and is driven by the interior areas cooling down and sucking in the fog. There is a low gap in the hills between Sonoma and Petaluma where Hwy 116 rolls through. The wind is all funneled into that corridor which then opens up into Carneros. The wind shuts the vines down (losing too much water, the leaves stop transpiring) in the later part of the day. This has the effect of lengthening the growing season and slowing the accumulation of sugar. (Read: Alcohol). It allows us to make wines in which the fruit is foremost NOT oak and wood. Back to the wind, it is one thing for me to sit here and try to describe it, but if you spend anytime here you will understand. It is not breezy – it is windy. Stand on the hill at the winery and take in the expanse of Carneros down below. You’ll get it! Hold on to your hat, skirt and anything else you don’t want blown away!

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MICHAEL: Trust yourself and your palette. Don’t chase a style or someone else’s opinion. Be ready to work and get down and dirty. Don’t expect a lot other than the reward of the wine itself.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MICHAEL: Breaking in the two new harvest interns. We are bottling Carneros Chardonnay and getting ready to move Carneros Pinot Noir from barrel. Last minute repairs to items on the crush pad and generally prepping for the big storm of the crush. It may be a few weeks delayed, but it is like a slow moving mudslide. It is going to get us sooner or later/

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MICHAEL: Considering how much I enjoyed NASCAR, I may well be a closet redneck.

RED: Nice. What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MICHAEL: Well until recently it had been Laurenz V.’s Gruener Veltliner, either the Singing or the Charming, but I have been drinking a lot of our dry Rose of Pinot Noir of late.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MICHAEL: Well wine is for sharing with friends so have some people you like around and start opening bottles. Schug wines always get better of the course of a meal as the layers start to unveil themselves. Don’t rush into it. Relax and enjoy.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MICHAEL: The Holy Trinity from E. Guigal – La Turque, La Mouline, La Landonne. Odd for a Pinot maker, but I could drink those all night.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. How about: ‘If you couldn’t make wine, what would you do?’ And to be honest, I am not sure of the answer… I always say that my retirement plan is to move to Hawaii (Kauai – westside) and make rum, but that’s a bit close to winemaking… So perhaps a historian and author. 18th and 19th century European to be a bit more precise.

RED: Very cool. Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MICHAEL: No problem. Thanks again for having me. I hope I covered what you wanted to know. Glad you like the wine, I hope your Operatives do, too.

And here is a recap of Agent Red’s original interview with Walter Schug:

I had the incredible great fortune to meet with one of the wine industry’s most respected and renowned wine craftsmen in California wine history.

Walter Schug, owner and winemaster at Schug Carneros Estate, was born into wine in Germany in 1936, where his father was winemaker for one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir Producers.

As a young man, Walter worked throughout Europe, honing his craft. In 1966 Julio Gallo asked Walter to oversee all grapegrowing and quality control for the company. Seven years later, after Walter’s reputation had grown, Joseph Phelps asked Walter to become Phelps’ winemaker at his new Napa Valley winery.

Walter helped to create the Insignia label and some of the finest and most sought after Bordeaux-style blends in the country. Walter crafted wines that set the high water mark for excellence in winemaking.

To this day, Walter Schug’s early influence on the industry lives on, with wineries across California and around the world emulating his winemaking style.

With Phelps, Walter Schug’s goal was to make the best Bordeaux-style blend possible. Today, Walter Schug’s philosophy remains largely unchanged. There is one big difference, however; Where a bottle of Insignia may cost you $200 or more, a Schug wine of comparable quality with cost you less than $60.

On arriving at the Schug winery last week, I am greeted by Axel Schug, Director of Marketing for the winery and the son of Walter Schug. Axel, with whom I had met previously, introduces me to his father, and then escorts me through the bowels of the winery, to a tasting room buried in a wine cave. The long table the stretches down the tunnel is surrounded on both sides by seemingly every vintage from Schug’s history.

As I am escorted to my seat, I notice several magnums of Insignia wine and I spot one bottle in a special wooden display. Walter Schug sees me looking at it and he takes it from the display and shows it to me. The bottle is from Joseph Phelps himself, and a touching tribute to Walter Schug, from Phelps, is engraved on the back.

What follows is a partial transcript of our conversation:

AGENT RED: Mr. Schug, thank you so much for making yourself available today. It is an honor to meet you!

WALTER SCHUG: Welcome, Agent Red.

AGENT RED: Let me first say that your wines blow me away. The winery is beautiful as well. I love Carneros and wines from the region. You are really a pioneer of the region. When it came time to build your own winery, how did you come to settle here?

WALTER SCHUG: When I was with Gallo, I sourced fruit from Carneros. I recognized the region as having great potential for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Given my passion for Pinot, settling in Carneros was a natural.

AGENT RED: And, when you did settle, you produced a fair amount of Chardonnay, did you not?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, and it was excellent, too. It still is. Back then, Chardonnay subsidized my passion for Pinot Noir! It allowed me to perfect Pinot here.

AGENT RED: This Cabernet Sauvignon we are drinking [today’s 2003 Heritage CS] is incredible. How has your philosophy changed from your Insignia days?

WALTER SCHUG: Very little. The goal now, as it was with Phelps back then, is to create the very best wine that we possibly can. And, to do so without recipe or formula.

AGENT RED: Ahh. Whereas I have heard that Insignia is more formulaic in its approach to winemaking today. Instead, your proportions or even fruit sources may change a good deal – if it means making wines that are that much better. Am I correct?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, this is true. This Cabernet is streamlined and far more European in character. This is a wine that has elegance, delicacy, finesse – this is what I strive for in all of my wines!

AGENT RED: Again, this is a great wine and I am sure that our Operatives will love it. I also look forward to bringing them your Pinot Noir, during a future mission.

WALTER SCHUG: If they appreciate wines that are made for the best enjoyment, they will love this wine. In the end this wine is not made by going to the vineyard and knowing what you are going to get. Rather, it is the result of meticulous blending of wines made from the best fruit. Again, it is my mission to create wines that are the best expressions of place. It is my mission to make wines that are to be enjoyed.

AGENT RED: Mission accomplished, Mr. Schug, Mission accomplished!

WALTER SCHUG: Thank you, Agent Red.

We talked a great deal about Walter Schug’s history and his influence and impact on the wine industry. While I was certainly impressed by his incredible history, I must say that what impressed me the most – what seemed to matter to me the most – was what the Schug Carneros Estate winery was doing today. Today, Schug is crafting remarkably beautiful wines that are a true delight to drink and enjoy!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Schug Carneros Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Rutherford Grove Winery & Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Five Generations of Great Wines and Great Times

Operative: Agent White & Agent Sass

Objective: Secure an exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon from family run Rutherford Grove.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Rutherford Grove Winery and Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Andy Pestoni

Backgrounder:

The Rutherford AVA is among the most famous names in the valley and is primarily know for its exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the other big Bordeaux varietals. Ironically, Rutherford was the last of the major districts to receive AVA status and is home to about 30 wineries. Its well drained soil made of a combination of marine sediment and volcanic gravel, sand and loam is distinct and contributes to its famed ‘Rutherford Dust’ component found its its great wines.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep dark garnet purple with a dark, nearly black clear core with highlighting garnet hues that sparkle as you swirl this wine. Deep garnet along the edges with alternating fast and slow medium legs that leave hints of this wine’s color on the sides of the glass.

Smell – Rich in intensity with aromas of soft blackberry, raspberry and wild bramble that are layered over complex notes of black licorice, savory herbs, toasted oak and hints of dark chocolate.

Feel – Smooth and rich, this full-bodied wine has smooth, fine and well developed firm tannins and lively acidity with a touch of minerality and the famed dust. Well structured, but not overpowering, as this wine opens up and breathes, its true elegance is revealed.

Taste – Rich and luscious earthy dusty black and blue-fruit including blackberry, bilberry, black-cherry are supported by toasted oak with vanilla hints, a touch of black licorice, dried fall herbal notes, a subtle vegital component and mocha.

Finish – This wine finishes exceptionally long and clean with lingering flavors of its herbal, oak and fruit that are well supported by this wine’s balanced structure.

Conclusion – The 2005 Rutherford Grove Winery and Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is an exceptional example of why Rutherford is so well known for great Cab. Complex on the nose with classic fruit, oak and herbs; plush and rich on the palate; expansive but well integrated flavors and a long clean finish that begs for another sip.

Agent Sass’s Review and Food Pairing:

If platters of dates, figs and prunes, pungent cheeses and fabulous oils, grace your table, then BEHOLD, one gorgeous Cabernet for you! Deep leather and lust is evident in this very well made and somewhat syrupy swallow of grape. With a subtle hint of Herbs de Provence trickling in after time, it is easy to become engulfed right away from this wine, whether an avid Cab drinker or not. Polished and with presence, this wine by the glass can stand alone, and its accents pick up the savory markings of food, very well. Both elegant and powerful, this wine demonstrates that one CAN indeed have it all, in one glass!

About Agent Sass:

Agent Sass, currently a resident of New England, is a bond girl to the Nth degree! Speaking multiple languages, feasting on exotic game meats, drinking exclusively red wines – but for the occasional bubbly or Zind Humbrecht white – and having an affinity for leather trousers and “high fashion” shoes; Agent Sass produced an edgy wine etiquette DVD: www.sassfrommyglass.com. She has enjoyed wine with her dinner nightly, since age 10, and taught extemporaneous speaking to college students prior to today. While drinking copious reds, Agent Sass raises very pampered Cocker Spaniels and prepares all of their gourmet food from scratch. Despite her luscious crush on Malbecs, her favorite wine is tied between Ghost Horse Cabernet & Screaming Eagle Cabernet – still a delicious “menage a trois” for Sass, while she determines which it is, that truly hits the spot best for her!

Mission Report:

With the 2010 harvest underway, we were unable to secure a winemaker interview for today’s wine. Below is a recap of Agent White’s original mission when he discovered Rutherford Grove Winery & Vineyards.

Every now and then wine mixes with another passion, specifically my love of fine historic automobiles. So it was with great pleasure that we accepted an initiation to attend a specific wine tasting event at the Peterson Automotive Museum in Los Angeles that was featuring the wines and wineries of the Howell Mountain Vintners & Growers Association. (To honest, given the magnitude of great wines, they could have hosted the event at a stock yard and I’d be there).

I asked one of my favorite tasting partners to join me, We’ll call her Agent Fire Cracker for now. So named as she is half French and half Columbian, I’ll let you guess which side won, but she has one of the most sophisticated palates of anyone I know and I wanted her judgment since I was likely to be swayed by all the four-wheeled distractions.

With so many great wineries represented this was both a pleasure but also a daunting task. So many great wines so little time. We used the W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) to help us narrow down the specific target wineries and their selections so we could focus on only the best. Fire Cracker and I, with our cover established covertly tasted the wines on our list. So many were great and over the next few months you’ll be presented with our findings.

Today, we are pleased to introduce you to one of those great wineries, the folks from Rutherford Grove and their delicious 2004 Estate Merlot. Strategically located near Herbie – The Love Bug of Disney movie fame, this wine is equally a classic. The folks at Rutherford Grove have an extensive history of winemaker that dates back five generations. Winemaker, Andy Pestoni and the Pestoni family is committed not only producing wines of exceptional character but also to sustainable farming practices. After you taste today’s selection, we are sure you’ll agree that history, tradition and respect for the environment make all the difference.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Rutherford Grove Winery and Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Chateau Gombaude-Guillot Pomerol AOC

Mission Codename: Esprit De Corps

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Provide Agent White with a respite from securing French wines and allow Agent Red the opportunity to procure an exceptional food-friendly French blend for our Francophile Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Château Gombaude-Guillot

Wine Subject: 2005 Cadet De Gombaude AOC Pomerol

Winemaker: Mme Laval

Backgrounder: Located near Bordeaux, Pomerol is a commune in the Gironde department in Aquitaine, in south-western France. This area, which occupies less than 3 square miles in total, is home to small producers of primarily Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Some Cabernet Sauvignon is also grown here.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest ruby red with color that maintains deep concentration, right out to the edges of the wine. When swirled, the wine has a softly lofty surface that bounces around before it settles. When the wine does settle, skinny, wine-stained tears move swiftly down the glass.

Smell – This wine is shy on opening, but after a few minutes of decanting aromas emerge – and then emerge more. The wine leads with sweet ripe blackberry, cherry, leather, anise and earthy bramble. After some swirling, candied black cherry, dried fall leaves, subtle roast beef and a hint of tomato stem emerge.

Feel – Cool and light on the initial attack, then the wine reveals fine tannins and a softly grippy medium body, with a distinct black pepper-minerality. After a moment in the mouth, the pepper character spreads a sharp but pleasant warmth across the palate.

Taste – Juicy but elegant, lead by earthen black cherry, blackberry, bramble, soft anise, flint and sharp black pepper.

Finish – Very long and flavor filled, leading with dark fruit that tails off to soft earthy notes and the sharp black pepper from the palate.

Conclusion – Our tasting panel was very impressed with this wine. A tad shy at first, this wine really came to life with some time in the decanter. A hearty swirling in the glass could also help to coax this wine to life. When it does emerge, the rewards are great; The aromas and flavors are fantastic, authentic and very pleasing. With perfect balance and acidity, this wine really lends itself to easy pairing. I enjoyed the wine with a grilled Reuben sandwich, which is a pairing that might challenge most wines. It was perfection, and I give this lovingly handmade wine a very solid recommendation.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Château Gombaude-Guillot Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol 2005

WINE EDUCATION:
(Votre formation dans le vin)
J’ai au départ une formation d’ingénieur agronome qui m’a donné des bases scientifiques solides. J’ai suivi en complément un cycle de formation à l’Institut d’oenologie de Bordeaux. Mais j’ai surtout appris “sur le tas”, en vifiant, d’abord avec mon pèr,e puis seule.

I first studied agricultural engineering, which provided me with a solid scientific background. I then completed training at the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology. But most of all I learned “on the job,” while making wine, first with my father and then on my own.

WINE JOB BRIEF:
(Votre position – c’est à dire tous vos rôles)
Je gère l’entreprise dans son ensemble avec le conseil avisé de mon mari. Je suis responsable de la vinification et de la commercialisation alors que lui s’occupe plutôt de la viticulture. Mais bien sûr nous échangeons beaucoup sur tout.

I manage the entire business with my husband’s help. I am responsible for the vinification and marketing side of things while he more or less handles the grape growing. But of course we collaborate on everything.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY:
(Votre philosophie de vinification)

Je vinifie chaque cuve en fonction de ses caractéristiques propres, le plus naturellement possible, en cherchant à exprimer au mieux l’identité de terroir de chacune

I make each wine according to its inherent traits, as naturally as possible, allowing each wine to best express its terroir.

WINEMAKER QUOTE:
(Une citation de vous)
chaque millésime est comme un enfant qu’on élève en s’attachant à l’aider à exprimer au mieux ses qualités propres

Every vintage is like a child that one raises to best express his or her own qualities.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE:(Date de la première commercialisation de votre vin)

La première commercialisation du Cadet date de mai 1994

The Cadet de Gombaude was first sold in May, 1994.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mme Laval. We are thrilled to be showing your Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol 2005 today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

Bonjour Mme Laval. Nous sommes ravis de présenter votre Cadet de Gombaude Pomerol 2005 aujourd’hui. Merci d’avoir pris le temps de répondre à nos questions.

WINEMAKER: Je vous remercie vivement de l’intérêt que vous manifestez pour mon travail

Thank you very much for the interest you show in my work.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?
Est-ce qu’il y avait une expérience en particulier qui a inspiré votre amour du vin ?

WINEMAKER: Je suis née dans une famille où les jours de fête, les occasions de se retrouver, étaient ponctuées de bons repas où les adultes goûtaient de bons vins et où les enfants bénéficiait d’une pêche au vin (une pêche de vigne coupée en morceau avec une touche de sucre et 2 gouttes de vin vieux (un accord parfait délicieux).

I was born into a family where holiday gatherings were marked by good meals during which the adults drank good wines and the children enjoyed a pêche au vin (a pêche de vigne [an heirloom type of peach that was planted at the end of each row of grapevines as an early indicator of disease] cut into pieces with a touch of sugar and 2 drops of old wine – a delicious combination).

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?
Quel vin ou quel(le) vigneron(ne) a surtout eu de l’influence sur votre style de vinification ?

WINEMAKER: Il m’est arrivé de goûter Pétrus. Et tant de fraîcheur, de légèreté associé à une telle intensité m’a impressionnée.

I have tasted Petrus. Such freshness, such lightness in a wine of such intensity made quite an impression on me.

RED: Who do you make wine for?
Pour qui faîtes-vous le vin ?

WINEMAKER: Pour mes clients, qui apprécient son caractère inimitable

For my customers, who appreciate its unique character.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.
Veuillez svp nous expliquez le vin que nous présentons aujourd’hui un peu.

WINEMAKER: C’est un vin encore très jeune, plein de fruit . Sa caractéristique c’est son équilibre : on ne sent pas l’alcool, parfaitement équilibré par de très beaux tanins enrobés de fruit. C’est un vin qui développe son ampleur sur la longueur. Il va croissant. Au fur et à mesure de la dégustation, il va s’oxygéner, développer son bouquet et ce sont les éléments de ce bouquet et leur corolaire en bouche qui vont permettre les accords avec les mets (les belles viandes en particulier). Cette complexité s’épanouit tout en finesse : pas de saturation, le vin est très digeste et laisse la bouche fraîche

This is still a young wine, and very fruity. Its notable characteristic is its balance: one doesn’t smell the alcohol, which is perfectly balanced by lovely tannins enveloped in fruit. This is a wine that develops its fullness over time; it rises to greater heights. The wine will oxygenate and develop its bouquet as you’re tasting it, and it is the qualities of that bouquet on the palate which open up possible food pairings (especially high-quality meats). This complexity makes for a wine of great finesse : there is no heaviness in the mouth; rather the wine is light and easy to drink.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?
Quel est votre plat préféré avec ce vin ?

WINEMAKER: Un magret de canard aux cèpes
Duck breast with prorcini mushrooms

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Pomerol region so special?
A votre avis, en quoi est la région Pomerol particulière/exceptionnelle?

WINEMAKER: C’est l’alliance d’un sol chaud (graves siliceuses ou sables) avec un sous-sol frais d’argiles très gonflantes. C’est le climat océanique aux arrières saisons ensoleillées de Bordeaux. C’est le vent du plateau de Pomerol. Ce sont les savoir–faire, nés de la nécessité . Bref c’est le terroir.

It is the combination of a warm soil (siliceous gravel or sand) with a cool clay sub-soil. It’s the oceanic climate of the sunny late seasons of Bordeux. It’s the wind of the Pomerol plateau. It’s the know-how born of necessity. In short it’s the terroir.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?
Que faîtes-vous actuellement au domaine ?

WINEMAKER: Je vinifie le millésime 2010 !

I’m making the 2010 vintage!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?
Comment conseilleriez-vous aux gens d’aborder vos vins et les vins en général ?

WINEMAKER: Prenez votre temps… et un grand verre

Take your time … and a large glass.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?
Y-a-t-il d’autres choses que vous aimeriez raconter à/partager avec nos lecteurs ?

WINEMAKER: J’aimerais être avec vous, car le vin c’est d’abord le plaisir du partage.

I wish I could be there with you because wine is first and foremost about the pleasure of sharing.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!
Nous vous remercions de votre temps. Nous avons beaucoup appris sur vous et votre vin. Continuez le bon travail que vous faîtes ; nous sommes des fans enthousiastes !

Wine Spies RegionCheck:

Pomerol,in the Gironde department in Aquitaine in south-west France, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Bugay Vineyards Sonoma County Cabernet Franc

Mission Codename: To be perfectly Franc…

Operative: Agent Red with Agent Eiswein

Objective: Send Agent Red back Bugay Wines and Vineyards, the producer of some of Agent Red’s favorite wines. Retrieve Bugay’s exceptional 2005 Cabernet Franc for our demanding Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Bugay Wines and Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Cabernet Franc

Winemaker: Randall Watkins

Backgrounder: Cabernet Franc is one of Agent Red’s favorite red varietals. Perhaps this is because its flavors are often rich, layered, complex and elegant. Or, perhaps he loves Cabernet Franc so much because it pairs so exceptionally with many different foods. One of the most notable things about Cabernet Franc is the fact that finding excellent examples can be very difficult. This explains why we have not shown a Cab Franc here in some time.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A lovely garnet-to-purple center gives way to bands of lighter color toward the rim, where medium legs meander down the glass after a good swirl. After the wine is enjoyed, a small amount of sediment is left behind, confirming that this wine remained non-manipulated.

Smell – Light, sweet red and black fruits appear first, with red and black cherry, blackberry syrup, plum skin, dried blueberries and stewed prune. These are soon followed by a light smoke and earthiness and dried rose petals. Just below these, hints of earthen minerals and dark chocolate mingle with subtle vanilla.

Feel – Plump and round on initial entry, the wine maintains a very silky mouthfeel with bright, juicy acids that hint at the food-friendliness of the wine.

Taste – Subtle but delicious, with red and black cherry predominating. These are joined by blackberry, cassis, toasted oaky vanilla, dark chocolate powder, brown spice, subtle sage and an intriguing – and very pleasurable – subtle hint of earth and iron.

Finish – A medium finish with lingering notes of black cherry, blackberry, subtle spice, iron and a hint of dark chocolate dust.

Conclusion – We love the 2004 vintage of this wine, and today’s 2005 Bugay Wines and Vineyards Cabernet Franc is very different wine. It is a more subtle and delicate wine with gentle fruit, tartness and great – and unique – mineral-driven earthiness. Juicy acidity, soft tannins and a smooth mouthfeel make this wine ideal for sipping with a plate of salami, cheese and toasted bread.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Randall Watkins

WINE EDUCATION: Masters in Enology, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaking for past 16 years in Sonoma, Napa and Chile; current owner/winemaker of Watkins Family Winery.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I am committed to crafting limited production wines from the concentrated fruit of hillside vineyards. I believe that vineyard location, soil composition, climate and slope are key factors in creating wines of extraordinary quality and distinction. My goal is to produce wines of great balance with regard to ripe fruit, quality tannin, and natural acidity.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”All of my winemaking efforts go toward producing wines that are rich and intensely flavored, reflecting both their origin in the vineyard, and the balance and elegance of small lot winemaking.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1994, 1999 as head winemaker

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Randall. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Cabernet Franc today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RANDALL WATKINS: I am always happy to discuss our Cabernet Franc! I understand you are quite a fan.

RED: Indeed! In fact, today’s wine was my top pic, when I tasted it at a trade event. This is one fantastic wine! Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RANDALL: I grew up on a ranch in Sonoma County where we had horses, chickens, rabbits and 1 acre of Zinfandel and Chardonnay. My father didn’t sell the grapes, he was a home winemaker. Each vintage, all of his friends would come over to help hand-harvest the grapes and crank the hand stemmer-crusher. Then they would celebrate the harvest and their friendship with a big picnic, enjoying wine from previous vintages. From the time that I was 10 years old, I helped with the farming and the harvest of my family’s small vineyard. And when I grew older, it was my friends who came over for the harvest parties and many more great memories!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RANDALL: For Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, Dan Goldfield has been influential. I worked under him at Hartford and La Crema and learned about the Burgundian methods of cold soaking and open-topped fermentation to help extract color and express the fruit. He was one of the only winemakers who was producing an elegant style of Zinfandel, which is the style in which I make the Bugay Vineyards Zinfandel.

For Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals, I learned a lot working with Álvaro Espinoza, one of Chile’s most talented winemakers. In addition to his experience at Château Margaux, Álvaro is a well-known wine consultant and has his own highly rated label, Antiyal. He taught me the importance of organic farming, picking at perfect ripeness, and achieving a sense of place from the vineyard site.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RANDALL: I make wine for people to enjoy and share. I want the people who try my wine to want to have another glass, and that is why balance is so important to me. Some Zinfandel wines can be overripe and raisiny, sweet but with a burn from high alcohol. I prefer to make a more elegant style which has balanced alcohol and acidity, retaining the freshness of the fruit and the liveliness that makes young Zinfandel such a fun wine to enjoy. And that is why I was awarded Sonoma County Winemaker of the Year for my Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel a few years ago!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RANDALL: Cabernet Franc is an important component of the Bugay Vineyards Bordeaux blend ‘The Empress’, softening and rounding out the more angular Cabernet Sauvignon and providing intriguing aromas of currant and cocoa. In certain vintages, its performance is so superb that we have decided to withhold a small amount to bottle on its own as 100% Cabernet Franc. This wine has a dense ruby/purple color with an alluring nose of currant, cedar and violets. Mouthfilling and luscious, its well-integrated tannins give way to cassis, raspberry, sweet tobacco leaf and a hint of dried herbs. The finish is long, with sweet oak spice, caramel, and anise.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RANDALL: I particularly enjoy this wine with braised duck and a bacon, mushroom and wine sauce. This Cabernet Franc has enough structure to also pair well with hearty meats such as grilled lamb chops with rosemary and thyme.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the vineyard for this wine so special?

RANDALL: California Cabernet Franc which is grown on a south or west facing hillside tends to be richer and riper with notes of dried herbs. Cabernet Franc which is grown in the valley tends to have more of the herbaceous aromas and flavors evident in unripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Bugay Vineyards is located nearly at the top of the Mayacamas Mountains in between Santa Rosa and Calistoga. The steep rocky volcanic slopes are well drained and create a struggle for the vines which concentrates the color and flavor of the fruit. The vineyard elevation of approximately 1200 ft. places the vines above the valley fog, and above damaging spring frost. The north-south vineyard row alignment allows each side of the vine to enjoy equal sun exposure. Bud break is generally earlier resulting in a longer growing season with greater ‘hang time’ for the fruit. During the hot summer months, the vines receive the benefit of natural air conditioning as cool marine air follows the pressure gradient from the ocean over our vineyards on the south (ocean) side of the Mayacamas Mountains and down into the hotter interior valleys of Napa County and beyond. This temperate climate allows the fruit to mature slowly, evenly and with full physiological ripeness at a lower brix than most wine grape growing locations. In addition to its great location, the vineyard is meticulously farmed by John Bugay, whose talent for landscaping and gardening is reflected in the quality of the grapes and wine.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RANDALL: It is the HARVEST! And since 2010 has been such a late ripening vintage, ALL OF THE FRUIT is being picked in October, instead of being spread out between September and October. I am receiving Sauvignon Blanc from cooler regions on THE SAME DAY as Cabernet Franc from the Bugay Vineyard rugged mountain estate!!! In a normal vintage, I am in the vineyard tasting grapes to pick at optimum ripeness, on the sorting table to make sure that the best clusters are crushed and destemmed for our wines, adding yeast to convert sugar into alcohol, monitoring fermentations, pumping over and punching down grapes to extract color/flavor/tannin structure, training intern winemakers, determining ideal time to press grapes off of the skins and go to barrel, choosing our favorite barrels for aging… Most vintages I am working 15 hours a day, 7 days a week. This year, we are doing it all in October – half the time, and there aren’t 30 hours in a day! In summary, due to the long cool vintage and low yields, I am very excited about the quality and flavor of the Bugay wines for vintage 2010.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RANDALL: Have fun with it, feel comfortable having an opinion on what you like and don’t like. Go with your instincts. There is no point in suffering through a wine that you really don’t like just because you have read that it’s supposed to be good. Wine, like art, is subjective. Try new things, new producers, new varietals, wines from different growing areas. Trying different wines is the only way to build your sensory memory and discover your own tastes. Realize that the most important characteristic of a good wine is balance. A wine’s flavor can have many different elements: fruit, tannin, spice, oak, etc. The best wines have all these things in a complex harmony, and no one flavor overshadows the others.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RANDALL: There is no better way to end a day than to relax and share wine, food and conversation with friends!

RED: Thank you so much for your time, Randall. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

2007 Balance by Heath Dolan Red Field Blend (Truett-Hurst)

Mission Codename: Everything in life

Operative: Agent Red with Agent Eiswein

Objective: Return to Truett-Hurst Winery, return with their astoundingly delicious, budget-minded Balance, a biodynamic Red Blend that delivers a mighty experience at a low price

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Truett-Hurst

Wine Subject: 2007 Truett-Hurst Blanace by Heath Dolan

Winemaker: Heath Dolan

Backgrounder: When The Wine Spies first learned of Truett-Hurst Winery, we were instantly intrigued by their approach to winemaking. From their stellar winemaking team, to their sustainable practices, Truett-Hurst is a true stand-out winery that makes great wines. Agent Red recently returned to the winery, where he sat down to taste through their entire range of wines. He returns, triumphant, with today’s excellent Balance red blend from winemaker Heath Dolan, the son of Paul Dolan, the pioneer of sustainable winemaking. Read Red’s mission notes and tasting notes below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep opaque blackberry-colored wine with a lighter-colored rim, stained tears and medium legs.

Smell – This wine is shy at first, but then reveals layers of sweet, jammy blackberry, black currant, plum skin and raisin with a touch of cinnamon.

Feel – This wine is smooth and supple on entry, with a medium weight. The wine fills the mouth with a juicy acidity and very soft tannins.

Taste – The wine leads with jammy, stewed blackberries, black cherries and black currants that blend beautifully with the flavors of raisin, dried plum and cinnamon. What is taken in on the nose is confirmed on the palate.

Finish – This silky wine has a surprisingly long finish, with the black currant, cinnamon, raisin and dried plum lingering the longest.

Conclusion – Once again, our good friends at Truett-Hurst delivers a wine that drinks well above its price class. Combine their remarkable track record for producing great wines, with winemaker Heath Dolan’s own skills, and you can’t help but end up with a fantastic wine. Today’s is a rich, fruity wine with a round, supple mouthfeel and elegant fruits. A lovely wine to drink on its own and savor all those layers of flavor. Would be lovely with lamb chops or steak right off the grill, or with a selection of blue cheeses.

Mission Report:

What follows is a recap of our original mission to Truett-Hurst:

In the frenzied wine-a-day world of a secret wine agent, I can sometimes be moving so quickly from mission to mission that I lose sight of the natural wonder that is winemaking.

I recently had the great fortune to receive a hot tip from one of my operatives. His intel was fed into our Wine Internet Nexus Engine (W.I.N.E.) – and the results that came back classified Truett-Hurst as a Priority Target.

I was just coming off of a series of mission and I was tired. I was expecting a few days of R&R, but a Priority alert is never something that I can resist. According to the data on Truett, their Petite Sirah and their Zinfandels were their flagship wines. Their other wines merited investigation as well, but my focus was to be these.

My Operative had provided me with a contact at the winery. My mole there was to be [REDACTED], the General Manager of the winery. I called him and set an appointment for the next day.

On the morning of my mission, I wound my way through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley. Along the way, I passed several of our previously-featured wineries. Our Operatives love Dry Creek Valley wines and it was a joy to drive through the valley on this cold and misty morning.

On arrival at Truett-Hurst, I was struck by the serenity of the place. Despite the construction activity that was taking place (during their expansion), there was a definite vibe to the property.

The tasting room was charming and the round tasting bar was inviting and impressive. [REDACTED} greeted me as I approached and chatted for a few minutes about the winery and about its approach to farming, grape growing and winemaking. See the left column for more information about this unique style of farming.

I found the wines to be impressive, across the full range. I certainly did hone in on their Petite Sirah and Zinfandels – and then and there I secured an allotment of today’s wine.

Allocation secured for our Operatives, [REDACTED] invited me for a tour of the facility and the property. He explained that the winery was in the midst of a remarkable transformation.

[REDACTED] began by describing changes to the tasting room, including its transformation from tasting room to tasting lounge, a place for folks to meet and enjoy wines in a comfortable and inviting setting.

We then proceeded outside, where [REDACTED] described the new plantings would be going in. Included among these were, of course, new vines, but also numerous functional and productive gardens. The entire back area of the property will contain vegetable gardens, and gardens designed specifically to play host to beneficial insects. The entire front vineyards will host natures lawnmowers, free roaming sheep and chickens. The chickens will control the crab grasses that the valley is known for by scratching the ground, and the sheep will take care of the rest. Their hooves will provide the ground with needed aeration.

We then walked down to the pristine creek, where [REDACTED] described that the bank would be dotted with chaise lounges, where people could enjoy a glass of wine while watching native salmon and trout leaping out of the water.

The entire experience is one that I recommend that you have for yourself. Visit them the next time you are in the Dry Creek Valley. Meanwhile, for a taste of a very special wine from a very special winery, please enjoy today’s wonderful Burning Man Petite Sirah!

Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Truett-Hurst Winery, where today’s wine was crafted, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Cosentino Winery Il Chiaretto Sangiovese

Mission Codename: The Little Red Chair

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Cosentino Winery, a Wine Spies Operative favorite, to secure a Cosentino varietal that we have never investigated before.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cosentino Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Sangiovese – Il Chairetto

Winemaker: Mitch Cosentino

Winery Backgrounder: Cosentino Winery enjoys the distinction of being one of our top-selling winery of all time. Their wines are varied, distinctive and always delicious. Our favorite Cosentino wines have been their Bordeaux varietals, but today we looked to Mitch’s Sangiovese – and are we glad that we did. Today’s wine is an easy-drinker with old world charm.

Varietal Backgrounder: The most widely planted grape in all of Italy, Sangiovese is used in everything from blended inexpensive table wines like Chianti, to the finest Super Tuscans. Italian immigrants introduced this varietal to the U.S. in the 1800’s. First plantings of this grape in the U.S. were right here in California. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes on this great wine, followed by his mission report, to learn more about today’s old-world-in-California wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Intense garnet with ruby and garnet highlights through its clear core. Deep ruby red along the edges and when swirled, tight and evenly spaced medium legs descend to the wine below at varying speeds.

Smell – Bright and youthful in character with bold blackberry, black cherry orange peel leading the way. Just below these, soft herbal, spice and oak components engulf tart red cherry aromas. Hints of earth and subtle floral notes also emerge as the wine opens up.

Feel – Medium to full-bodied, this dry wine is tangy and spicy upon its initial attack. Once it opens and breathes, this wines lively character softens and becomes warm and classically tangy. Lively in its acidity with youthful medium firm tannins that linger into the finish.

Taste – Flavors of hot white pepper layer over red and black cherry along with notes of ripe blackberry, red plum and black cherry with brambly herbs and spice. Wild anise and oak lie just underneath the fruit making their presence known, without overpowering the cherry and spice.

Finish – Medium long in length with its spicy white pepper, herbal bramble and red cherry fruit warmly fading.

Conclusion – A nice pizza wine, with its spicy white pepper, dark fruit, herbal bramble and red cherry fruit. The wine really benefits from decanting, so be sure to allow some time for the wine to really soften and open up as it stretches out in the open air. Like a traditional Italian field-blended table wine, this easy-drinker is a simple wine the delivers an easy old world experience. We really enjoyed the red cherry and earthy, herbal bramble notes. Pair with a homemade pizza or a lively pasta dish.

Mission Report:

What follows is a reproduction of my original mission filing, from when we first infiltrated Cosentino Winery:

Cosentino Winery has two important distinctions; First, my favorite wine of all time was made by Mitch Cosentino, head of winemaking for the winery. Second, the Cosentino Winery was the most elusive and difficult to bring into the Wine Spies fold.

I first fell in love with Cosentino wines while on a (very rare for me) vacation. Agent Sparkle and I had just wrapped up a mission in Central America and, with a few days left before we were due to report back in, we decided to head to Costa Rica.

Once checked in to our hotel, Hotel Casa Marella, we decided to go for a swim in the infinity pool. The pool, which overlooked the Pacific Ocean, offered a spectacular view of the ocean and the town below. I was in heaven.

Heaven got even better when Agent Sparkle arrived, a bottle of wine in hand, and a giant smile on her face. It was twilight, so I could not make out the label. She opened the bottle, poured and handed me a glass. I took it eagerly.

On inhaling the wine, I knew that it was not a Chilean wine (the most common wine found in Costa Rica). I also knew that it was an exceptional wine, maybe even a California wine. One sip, and the heaven I was in got even better.

“What’s this,” I asked.

“This? Oh, its just that bottle of Cosentino we’ve been saving”

I was shocked, but very pleasantly surprised. How had she managed to smuggle this bottle along on this trip? Had she sent it ahead? That did not make sense, as this part of our trip was improvised.

Rather than press her for details, I simply enjoyed the wine. Drinking wine in a swimming pool overlooking the ocean is a wonderful thing to do. Add a Cosentino wine and the wonderful becomes far more so!

Getting back to how difficult it was to infiltrate Cosentio, I will say that it the delay may have just come down to poor spy-craft. I was just knocking on the wrong doors at the winery. For nearly two years.

So, dear Operative, this mission report is really my Mea Culpa. I did a bad job and it took me way too long to bring you a Cosentino wine. This mission is also my way of making it up to you! Today’s wine, made by master winemaker, Mitch Cosentino, is a great wine at a remarkable price.

The winery loves what we Wine Spies are up to and they allowed us special access to their wine archives. We pulled out today’s wine for you as the first of what we expect to be a handful of additional Cosentio wines that we’ll bring you this year.

A special thanks to Agent S2 (our new inside man at the winery) and to Mitch Cosentino for hosting us at our private tasting recently. It was great fun to hang out with you both – and to listen to Mitch tell us everything about wine, growing and winemaking. We learned a ton and we loved drinking through your wines with you!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Cosentino Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Merlot

Mission Codename: Sass In Your Glass

Operative: Agent White and introducing Agent Sass

Objective: Vet Agent Sass with a deep cover mission to our friends at Grgich Hills Estate.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grgich Hills Estate

Wine Subject: 2006 Napa Valley Estate Grown Merlot

Winemaker: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

Backgrounder: In 1976, Mike Grgich rocked the wine world by creating a California that beat out French Chardonnays in the now famous Judgment of Paris. The French were outraged, and Mike Grgich earned the respect of wine drinkers and critics, worldwide. Today, Mike continues to oversee production of what have been heralded as “the finest wines in the world”. We are very proud to be able to bring you today’s fantastic Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Merlot.

To true wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, outpacing most other varietals. Merlot is sincere, food-fabulous wine for serious wine drinkers. If you think that Merlot is not for you, forget everything that you think you know about Merlot and embrace this stellar example.

Please continue reading to learn more about Agent Sass who assisted on the review of this delicious wine. And if you’re a lucky operative, perhaps she’ll demonstrate how to saber a bottle of Champagne for you… but be for-warned, she is vicious with her blade.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet with ruby red highlights through its dark but clear heart. Along the edges the color shows its deep ruby color with a slight brickish hue. When swirled, fast thin legs streak down the side of the glass and are followed by slower fat legs.

Smell – Rich and redolent with bold red and black cherry and blackberry with a distinct earthy component. A touch of spice, herbal and toasted vanilla oak and hints of dark chocolate invites you in.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this rich and expansive full-bodied wine is both firm and fine tannins with a solid backbone structure that softens as it opens. Lively in its acidity and minerality adding balance that lingers into the finish.

Taste – Ripe and dense red and black cherry, blackberry, and other red and black fruits balanced with earthy notes, black licorice, hints of unsweetened chocolate, vanilla and toasted oak blend together and reveal themselves gracefully.

Finish – Long and clean with its dark cherry with earth, vanilla and wild licorice lingering long into the finish by a great texture that clings to the palate.

Conclusion – The 2006 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Merlot is a very approachable, lush and rich Merlot, from an exceptional vintage that will instantly appeal to those who prefer Cabs for their rich and ripe fruit and texture. A great earthy nose with red and black fruit that greets you and upon your first sip and lingers long into the finish. Enjoy this wine now or for the next 5 to 7 years.

Agent Sass’s Review and Food Pairing:

This smooth and gulpable wine – with just a splash of brick hue in its color – is soothing with its lingering finish. While the essence of dark, dried fruit, (in its nose), enchants one right away; there is an unexpected hint of vanilla in this wine, as the oils come to the surface and esters open up. Balance is brought beautifully, to this unusually sturdy Merlot, which drinks more like a Meritage or Cabernet. This delightful pick would hold up well to succulent lamb chops, and too, pair glowingly with a simple plate of cheese. Unmistakably easy to drink, this wine is a winner!

About Agent Sass:

Agent Sass, currently a resident of New England, is a bond girl to the Nth degree! Speaking multiple languages, feasting on exotic game meats, drinking exclusively red wines – but for the occasional bubbly or Zind Humbrecht white – and having an affinity for leather trousers and “high fashion” shoes; Agent Sass produced an edgy wine etiquette DVD: www.sassfrommyglass.com. She has enjoyed wine with her dinner nightly, since age 10, and taught extemporaneous speaking to college students prior to today. While drinking copious reds, Agent Sass raises very pampered Cocker Spaniels and prepares all of their gourmet food from scratch. Despite her luscious crush on Malbecs, her favorite wine is tied between Ghost Horse Cabernet & Screaming Eagle Cabernet – still a delicious “menage a trois” for Sass, while she determines which it is, that truly hits the spot best for her!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mike Grgich

WINE EDUCATION: I studied winemaking and viticulture at the University of Zagreb in the former Yugoslavia (now Croatia) and then I had to leave to escape communism. In 1995, 41 years after I left Croatia, I returned to the University of Zagreb, at 77 years old, and received my degree. CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: I left Yugoslavia to make wine in California and eventually arrived in Napa Valley in August 1958, with no money, just in time for crush to begin. I worked for some of the legends of Napa Valley: Lee Stewart, of the original Souverain Cellars; Brother Timothy at Christian Brothers; for almost nine years for André Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu Vineyards; with for Robert Mondavi and then Chateau Montelena, where the chardonnay I crafted won the famed 1976 Paris Tasting On Independence Day 1977, Austin Hills and I broke ground in Rutherford to build Grgich Hills Cellar.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Our goal remains the same as when I started the winery more than 30 years ago—to craft a wine that is harmonized. To me, that means not too much oak, not too much alcohol, not too much of any one attribute. In other words, we craft a whole wine that is a pleasure to drink.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “The less you process the wine, the more people will like it. Sometimes we are led astray by figures and numbers and percentages, but it is always the taste that is important.”

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Wine is like a long chain, from the vine to the glass. Every link—every step—is important. If one or two links are missed or don’t hold together, the whole chain falls apart. That means paying close attention to every link, from pruning and trellising to applying compost and disking in the vineyards to smelling and tasting every barrel to monitor the progress of the wine.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Our first release was the 1977 Johannesburg Riesling in November 1977.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mister Grgich. It is an honor to meet with you. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Napa Valley Merlot today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIKE GRGICH: Thank you for the opportunity to talk with you, again.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIKE GRGICH: I was the youngest of eleven children and during harvest my parents would put me a open barrel with some harvested grapes. So, I was safe and could wander off and I could eat the grapes if I were hungry or stomp the grapes and drink the juice. So, ever since I was two or three years, I’ve stomped grapes every harvest.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIKE GRGICH: When I came to America, André Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu Vineyards was the best known winemaker. He was called the maestro. I wanted to learn from the best so I applied to Beaulieu. I worked there for nine years, from 1959 until 1968. I was the first quality control person in the Napa Valley. While I was there I worked at improving the white wines, which in the early days would oxidize and become worthless. I was part of developing the use of Millipore sterile filtration, which was important to prevent bacteria from going into the bottle. Beaulieu was the first in California to induce malolactic fermentation in all of the red wines.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIKE GRGICH: You have to make the wine that you like.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MIKE GRGICH: This is a Cabernet lovers’ Merlot! Full-bodied and complex, this wine displays flavors of cherries, blackberries and a hint of dried herbs on the finish. RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIKE GRGICH: Its rich mouthfeel and food-friendly acidity make it the perfect partner with beef tenderloin, rack of lamb or roasted pork.

RED: In your opinion, what makes your vineyards so special?

MIKE GRGICH: All of our vineyards are certified organic and Biodynamic®, a holistic farming practice that uses the earth’s cycles and natural preparations to grow balanced, healthy vines without artificial fertilizers, pesticides, or fungicides. We blended Merlot grapes from four of our five vineyards, with just a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon to add complexity. By blending wine from four distinctive growing regions within Napa Valley, we crafted a complex, balanced Merlot.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIKE GRGICH: We are in the middle of crush, so this is our busiest time of the year. After three years of drought, we now face one of the coolest seasons on record but we are very happy with the fruit that we are harvesting. I also want to say it’s exciting to be enjoying my 52th vintage in the Napa Valley.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

MIKE GRGICH: My father taught me, “Every day do something a little better,” and that’s not only good advice for winemaking but for living.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

MIKE GRGICH: We hope you enjoy the wine and we invite you to visit us at the winery in Rutherford.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Grgich Hills Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.