2008 Clouds Rest Pinot Noir ‘femme fatale’

Mission Codename: Salome vs. Jezebel

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red to the remote, 1250-foot elevation, mountainside Pinot Noir vineyards of Clouds Rest – to investigate reports of their brilliant estate Pinot Noir – and secure an ample allotment for our premium Pinot-loving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Clouds Rest Vineyard

Wine Subject: 2008 Femme Fatale Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

Winemaker: Tony Austin

Backgrounder:

Clouds Rest, according to some in the wine trade, is quickly becoming the next cult Pinot Noir. One sip tells you why; This is a superior wine in every way. At less than half the price of Cloud Rest’s other Pinots, today’s wine is an absolute bargain. In the coming months, stay tuned for another exclusive Cloud’s Rest feature. Be sure to subscribe to our Daily Dispatch, above.

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the 750 square mile area with the Pacific ocean on its western boundary, the San Pablo Bay to the south and Mendocino County to the north, headed inland to the other designated AVAs in Sonoma County. The region is heavily influenced by the cooler ocean climate, increased rainfall and fog that lingers long on the coastal mountains. The specific climate suits the demanding Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay very well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Striking color, with hues of strawberry juice. In intriguing fashion, the wine looks slightly opaque when viewed from the side while swirling. When viewed from the top, the still wine shows perfect clarity. When swirled, the wine seems to have more mass than most Pinots of recent memory; It settles very quickly and shows off a surface that stops moving almost immediately after you stop swirling. As soon as the wine does settle, long and skinny legs fall slowly from high up on the wall of the glass.

Smell – Dark earthen cherry seems to waft right out of the glass, long before you even lift it to your nose! This warm and wonderful cherry gives way to elegant aromas of strawberry, violets, black cherry and soft spice.

Feel – Befitting its name, this wine has a seductive, voluptuous entry. It hovers across the tongue before it settles in all around the edges of the palate. Softly and slowly, the finest dryness begins to spread, starting at the tip of the tongue and eventually leading to a super soft, all-around-the mouth dryness.

Taste – Delicious and very flavorful, with soft red cherry, strawberry and cassis that is perfectly balanced against, earthy black cherry, dried violets, subtle black tea and a hint of spicy leather.

Finish – Extra-long, the flavors evolve and change before they slowly and lovingly diminish. The red fruit very gradually gives way to the earthen characteristics and soft spice. At the very end, a softly spiced soft leather lingers for a moment, to then be replaced by a very subtle pepper-mineral spice.

Conclusion – In a word: “WOW!”. Our tasting panel of seasoned Wine Spies has absolutely fallen in love with this fantastic Pinot Noir. We’ve also fallen for the wonderful people behind this amazing wine. I had the great fortune to walk the steeply planted mountainside vineyards with the Clouds Rest crew and before I ever had the pleasure to taste today’s amazing wine, I got a glimpse into how much love goes into their wine. The vineyard is unique, as is the placement, the row spacing and the terrain. With no other Pinot Noir plantings within miles, I wondered how they could have been so bold as to plant Pinot at this location. Their gamble, it turns out, was a carefully calculated one. The vines produce the finest fruit – from which the winery produces extraordinary Pinot Noir.

Today’s wine is soft, sexy and super delicious. I find myself wanting to refer to this wine as she and her, as the wines character is so distinctly feminine. The aromatics had me inhaling the wine for several minutes before I ever took a sip. When I did sip, it was true love. With a fruit-forward profile, the wine is also beautifully balanced in the other direction, offering up an earthy soft leather and spice that give it a more classic Pinot appeal.

This wine is Clouds Rest’s entry level wine, and we can assure you that we will make every attempt to bring you their other offerings. Be warned, though, the big sisters to this wine weigh in at more than twice the price, making today’s wine an unbelievable value. She’s a stunning wine, and I recommend that you allow yourself to be seduced by her. You won’t be disappointed.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Tony Austin

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. UC Davis, Enology & Viticulture

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker Firestone Vineyard ‘1975-83, Owner/Winemaker Austin Cellars 1983-94. Grower of Pinot Noir 1984- present for personal enjoyment, winemaker Clouds Rest Vineyards 2002- present.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Minimal intervention, Maximum style

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”just quit fiddling with it”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Firestone, 1976

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Tony. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Clouds Rest Femme Fatale Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

TONY: Glad to help promote wine enjoyment through knowledge.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

TONY: Just growing up in Sonoma County, I think it’s genetic in my case!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

TONY: Andre Telistcheff was my mentor during my first years as a winemaker. From his inspiration, the passion for artistic involvement and goals elevated the perception of what is possible. He helped me recognize wine as art, not just a beverage

RED: Who do you make wine for?

TONY: Clouds Rest Pinot Noir is made to please my palate as well as those seeking a wine that will make you think and give you the “wow” factor true “Pinotphiles” long for.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

TONY: This “estate” bottling is 100% from the high density planting at Clouds Rest. This is a very special and unique site; volcanic “soils”, (actually volcanic rocks) and a very high density of 4,900 plants per acre making this the highest density planting (to my knowledge). 4 (four) Clones planted are Dijon 115,667,777 and Pommard 3 make for tremendous complexity and depth. The 1200 foot elevation puts it in the Cloud layer (fog) nearly every night, thus the name.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

TONY: Pinot Noir is extremely versatile with food. My absolute favorite would be the grilled rack of lamb with a mint/garlic rub prepared by Clouds Rest Vintner, John Saemann… it’s truly legendary!

RED: Please be sure to invite me over, the next time he prepares that! Tell me, in your opinion, what makes the Sonoma Coast AVA so special?

TONY: The Sonoma Coast AVA is absolutely perfect for growing pinot noir. We get the warm days, ocean breezes and cooler nights that produce world class wines.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

TONY: We are currently right in the middle of harvest in Sonoma County.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

TONY: The art of perception requires focus, and a degree of motivation. Look closely, and especially when enjoying a fine Pinot, get the right glass, one that has a large bowl. Pour enough in the glass so that it is allowed to “breath” over time before the glass is emptied . . . repeat.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Clouds Rest Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Peterson Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Tradizionale

Mission Codename: The Return of the Traditional

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Peterson Winery, in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley, and secure a wine before its general release to the public

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Zinfandel Tradizionale

Winemakers: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder: Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. Arguably, the region is best known for producing some of the finest Zinfandel in the country. For today’s wine Agent Red returned to Peterson Winery, a Wine Spies favorite, and visited with Jamie Peterson, second generation winemaker and son of Fred Peterson, the founder and winegrower for the winery. Read about Agent Reds visit with Jamie, following his tasting notes and mission report below.

Varietal Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, which are characterized by their balance and juiciness, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Striking dark fuchsia hues with a deeper core of dark garnet. Swirl the wine and hold it to the light to observe this unique color. When the wine settles, a rapid cascade of branching tears rush down the glass.

Smell – Aromatic blackberry, black cherry, licorice and soft fresh herbs lead the way. These give way to chocolate, spice and soft oak.

Feel – A softly dry entry gives way to an expanding full middle palate plushness. Spice, dark fruit and an easily minerality sustain through the long finish.

Taste – Dark mixed berries and red raspberry jam with juicy flavors of tart cherry, black cherry, blueberry and red plum. These lead to subtle flavors of oak, dark cocoa and softly smoky cranberry.

Finish – Long and elegant, leading with bright red fruit and continuing on as darker fruit, spice and minerals dwindle slowly, ultimately leading to a soft black pepper minerality

Conclusion – I am crazy about Peterson wines, and working with them every year gives The Wine Spies a delicious opportunity to showcase successive vintages. I was really enamored with the 2006 vintage of this wine, and I like the 2007 even more! With bold but balanced fruit, this wine is a delicious treat that I could simply sip all on its own. It is a perfect food companion, though, as it has a acid profile that makes it an easy and flexible wine for most foods. The wine is made using Old World techniques including in-the-field blending of Zin grapes that are then co-fermented in the same barrels – rather than blended after the fact. This technique requires not only great courage, but also a tremendous amount of talent. Fred and Jamie bring it with this wine, and deliver another spectacular Tradizionale Zinfandel! As I mentioned, enjoy this wine all by itself, or pair it with Petrson’s recommended range of foods, from Beef Wellington to pepperoni pizza

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jamie Peterson

DATE OF BIRTH: March 20, 1981

PLACE OF BIRTH: Saratoga, CA (Mt. Eden Vineyards)

WINE EDUCATION: Ongoing, on-the-job. UC Davis Extension chemistry/lab analysis/viticulture classes.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Grew up in Peterson Winery, helping with odd jobs in the winery and vineyard as a teenager. Worked first harvest at 19, and then traveled to Australia and New Zealand to work harvest in 2001. took over as Assistant Winemaker at Peterson Winery in 2002. Given full Winemaker responsibility in 2006.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Zero Manipulation”/Minimal intervention, letting the vineyard and vintage show through in each bottling. No fining, no filtration. Minimal new oak usage, minimal additions and SO2 use.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”If it ain’t got the root, it ain’t got the fruit.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2002 Vintage, released in 2004

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jamie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Shinbone, today. We love the wine!! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. And, thanks for making such amazing wines!

JAMIE: As always, it’s great to be back with The Wine Spies.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JAMIE: It’d be hard to pick one. Growing up with the sights, sounds, and smells of the winery and vineyards, there were many inspirational moments. But I didn’t think I’d be getting into the life of wine as deeply as I have until I worked harvests in 2001 in Australia and New Zealand. Seeing the international wine community and how it ties people together made me decide to come back to the family winery and join full time in 2002.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JAMIE: From my father, growing up in the winery, and being able to learn on the job.

WHITE : What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JAMIE: I believe that vineyard and vintage driven wines are the only reason for small wineries to exist. I prefer wines from different vintages to reflect the growing season (otherwise why put the vintage on the bottle?) rather than use additives (acid, tannins, enzymes, gum arabic, overblown new oak) or technological processes (filtration, alcohol removal, micro-oxygenation) to create wines that taste the same each year. I don’t filter or fine our wines, and I predominantly use native yeast fermentations and malo-lactics, so we have to keep things clean and monitor closely, as we don’t choose to use the tools for fixing mistakes that some wineries do. We source from the same vineyards each year, so there is a thread of continuity running through vintages. Our vineyards are sustainably farmed, with a few certified organic, and a number of others dry-farmed.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JAMIE: I’m inspired by European vintners who have made wines from the same places for generations, and haven’t succumbed to commercialism.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JAMIE: 2002 was my first full year of working with wines from grape to bottle. 2000 was the first full harvest I worked with my father. At 28, I have 12 harvests under my belt (including working in both Australia and New Zealand in 2001).

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JAMIE: I make wines for my own tastes, and then we find enough people that share our ideas to buy it. We don’t submit our wines for scoring or competitions.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

JAMIE: The Dry Creek Valley features and amazing array of soil types and exposures for such a geographically small area, leading to a diverse range of flavors and subtleties in wines, even of the same varietal. This is why we make multiple single-vineyard Zinfandels, and it also helps us make varietal wines with complex flavors from blending from different parts of the valley, such as our Petite Sirah.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JAMIE: Realize that winemaking is both simple and complicated. It’s all just fermented grape juice, but it’s all about the details; every minute little thing you do or don’t do to the grapes or wine will affect how it turns out.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JAMIE: Harvest! We’re bringing in grapes as quickly as we can. The 2010 vintage has been an interesting one so far, and it looks like we’ll have some very rich wines to show for it.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JAMIE: The Tradizionale is our tribute to the early Italian immigrants that grew and made Zinfandel in the Dry Creek Valley. They would plant field blends, and grow their vines without irrigation, known as dry farming. The 2007 is the product of two vineyards- one planted in the 1920’s, and the other planted in 1990 using old Zinfandel clones. Both are dry-farmed and feature a field blend style. The blend has made a wine that showcases the raspberry jam and white pepper qualities and perfect balance that make Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel so great.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JAMIE: I like this with spicy red sauce pastas or a chicken cacciatore.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JAMIE: I like to go mushroom hunting (for chanterelles and porcini), even though as a teenager I accidently picked and ate Death Cap mushrooms.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JAMIE: Zinfandel is the wine I seem to open the most often of our own, but I also drink a lot of Rhone wines, and wines from the Ventoux.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JAMIE: So many people look for the “best” wine. I always ask them “best for what?” Every wine has a place and time for appreciating (unless it just is a wine that really sucks…), and it’s more important for people to figure out what types of wine they like, and why, than what others think is the best. Trust your own palate rather than what a critic or others say.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JAMIE: Thanks for having me, and for appreciating and featuring our wines!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 The Donum Estate Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Prefect

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate The Donum Estate and acquire a small allotment of their delicious, 93-point, Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: The Dunum Estate

Wine Subject: 2006 Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the independent Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. Originally designated in 1983, the region’s distinct Terroir and cool climate make it one of the best regions for the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first grapes were planted here in the early 1800s by missionaries. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir, which thrives here.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Opaque antique pink, with a darker heart of strawberry hue. Swirl the wine and watch it settle quickly, leaving behind skinny legs that start slowly, then streak down the glass.

Smell – Lead by tart young strawberry and raspberry, then fresh forest floor, redwood bark, cherry, leather, smoky thanksgiving spices and subtlest green tobacco leaf.

Feel – Dry but plush and full up front, then round and creamy across the mid palate, where the wine settles in and shows off a medium weight, rich body and a high-note acidity.

Taste – Tart young strawberry with concentrated jammy fruit of cherry, blackberry, red currant, black currant and smoky cranberry. These are layered atop fresh forest floor, redwood bark, clove, red licorice and mineral salt.

Finish – Long in length with the tart back cherry, redwood and spice tailing off slowly.

Conclusion – This is a powerful wine that delivers boldness and big character, while illustrating the powerful influences that the Carneros Region and great winemaking have on Pinot Noir. Donum’s amazing Carneros Pinot Noir fruit is the paint which winemaker, Kenneth Juhasz, splashes across the canvas to create today’s Pinot masterpiece. Be sure to decant this wine for best results, as the introduction of some oxygen coaxes softer edges from the wine, delivering a more plush and more balanced drinking experience. Our tasting panel paired this wine with a variety of California gourmet foods, including chicken & waffles with fruit compote, heirloom tomato salad with vinegar and herbs, flatbreads and more. The wine paired beautifully with everything.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Kenneth Juhasz

WINE EDUCATION: Industry Learned

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Began working with Donum Estate in 2002, now consult with several California wineries and own Auteur

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Dualism, great structure while maintaining elegance

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Summer 2003 – 2002 Stemmler Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Kenneth, we are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Donum Estate Carneros Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KENNETH JUHASZ: Thanks for having me back!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KENNETH: No, it was a series of experiences in the restaurant business where I came to understand the beauty and lifestyle of wine and the culture around it.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KENNETH: Montrachet

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KENNETH: I make wine for the vineyard, I do everything or as little as possible to let the vineyard speak.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Carneros region so special?

KENNETH: Not only its beauty, but the maritime feel of Southern Carneros; often you can taste the sea salt in the air and sometimes in the wine from the breezes that blow off San Pablo Bay.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KENNETH: Harvest!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

KENNETH: Do not expect all power, look for and enjoy finesse.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KENNETH: Thank you, it has been a pleasure working with you.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Donum Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Jenke-Vineyards Barossa Shiraz

Mission Codename: That’s not a wine, THIS is a wine!

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of a big, rich and bold Barossa Valley Shiraz

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Jenke-Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Barossa Shiraz

Winemaker: Kym Jenke

Backgrounder:

South Australia’s Barossa Valley is the regions most important and oldest of wine-growning regions. Well known for its ‘pull not punches’ Shiraz, the region’s cool ocean breeze on an otherwise hot dry climate, dry limestone and clay soil and relatively flat aspect that ranges from about 800 to 2000 feet in elevation provides an ideal growing environment for Shiraz as well as Chardonnay, Semillon and Riesling.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Extremely dark and dense purple and garnet with a deep inky center. Along the edges light passes through the wine showing garnet hues that also color the slow fat and evenly spaced legs that ring the glass when swirled.

Smell – Rich and vibrant with redolent ripe and spiced black and red fruit including black cherry and wild black and raspberry. Classic aromas of meaty leather blend with spice, sweet tobacco and black pepper along with a subtle floral quality that is all framed by its oak components.

Feel – Big, expansive and mouth-coating with fine well developed but firm tannins that greet you upon your first sip and linger long into the finish. Easy acidity adds to the chewy but not overly brash character of this robust wine.

Taste – Fruit forward flavors of spice and aromatic black cherry, blackberry, raspberry and plum meld with the meaty leather, spice and pepper found on the nose. Smokey sweet tobacco, toasted oak are present just underneath the fruit.

Finish – Extremely long with this wine’s lingering deeply layered fruit fading in unison with its leather, tobacco, pepper and oak flavors.

Conclusion – If you are a fan of big, rich and robust Australian wines, then the 2006 Jenke-Vineyards Barossa Shiraz is right up your alley. true to the Barossa Valley’s style this wine is muscular with tons of concentrated fruit, meaty leather and tobacco and a solid oak backbone. Drinking very well now (we recommend decanting to reveal all of this wine’s aromas and flavors) or cellar for 5-10 years in your cellar. Pair this with anything you can throw on the barbie.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Kym Jenke

WINE EDUCATION: Oenology, Roseworthy College, South Australia

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Vintages at DeMoor ( Napa Cellars 87), Stryker Sonoma ( 01/02/03)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Making pure varietals from estate owned Vineyards

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Life moves pretty fast, If you don’t stop to look around, you could miss it!” – Ferris Beuhler

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1/6 1989: 1989 Semillon

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Kym. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Barossa Shiraz today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KYM JENKE: Absolutely. It is my pleasure.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KYM Being the son of a grape grower, and 6th generation vigneron, I have grown up in the industry. But perhaps the first time I ever really thought about making wine, was my first visit to Napa in 1983.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KYM I made my first wines at Kies Estate, under the watchful eye of Nigel Logos. After that, I made wine up at Charlie Melton’s place, and naturally these gents had some influence on my approach to winemaking. I also love what Rick Burge and Charles Melton deliver each and every year. I’m happy to consider them friends as well as peers. The one thing I wanted to do from the beginning was to make 100% varietal wines that were terrior driven and truly captured the time and place of our little spot in the Barossa.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KYM I’ve always made wine for myself, the way I wanted to make (and drink) them!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

KYM 2006 was a difficult vintage, as the weather was warm and it was a pretty dry year. The fruit came in at 15 bohme (27 Brix) which is a bit higher than I like, and the resultant wine ended up at nearly 16% alcohol, which is definitely higher than I like them to be… I truly believe that wine should be around 13.5 – 14.5%. However, weren’t we surprised at how well balanced the finished wine turned out, despite its higher alcohol. We thought we had a pretty good one despite the higher than normal alcohol, but I was even more surprised when the wine received and Editor’s Choice designation and a 91 points rating from Wine Enthusiast.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KYM Leg ‘o Lamb. On the grill, lightly seasoned with salt, pepper, and stuffed with rosemary sprigs before grilling. Served medium-rare to let the flavors really explode in your mouth.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the [REGION] so special?

KYM Terroir, terrior, terrior. Of course every winemaker will tell you that… But being a sixth generation Barossan, there really is nothing quite like our little piece of the world.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KYM We just recently finished winter pruning, so there isn’t a great deal to do other than topping barrels. And, of course, getting out there and selling wine.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

KYM Wine is an experience. Every vineyard, every year, and often every bottle can be different based upon when you drink it, what you pair it with, or even what mood you’re in… I always find the best way to approach and enjoy my wines is surrounded by friends, and paired with great food.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KYM I have always had a love affair with the US, which dates back to my first visit in 1983 as a Foreign Exchange Student with the AFS program. On my first trip to Napa I discovered several smaller, family owned wineries making their own wine (and whole lot of big commercial wineries too) which inspired me to come home and build something for our family. 27 years later, I finally find myself with the opportunity to sell my wines in the US, and I’m proud to be able to do so. Far too many people have given up on Aussie wines, as quite frankly there are far too many commercial ventures here guilty of selling low priced wines in the US. I would like to say to your readers, don’t give up on Australia. There are still many small producers like myself, that are making wines for the ages, not the wages. Why? The reason is that it is in our blood, not in our pocketbooks, to continue to do what we love.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Jenke-Vineyards* can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Joseph Family Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Bulls + Justice = Great Wine

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our old friends at Joseph Family Winery and acquire their delicious Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Joseph Family Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Scott Peterson

Backgrounder:

The Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest dark and brooding garnet purple with a dense clear core that let’s just hints of ruby streaked light though. Along the edges, the color remains garnet and when swirled tightly spaced thick color laden legs immediately ring the glass.

Smell – Bright and plush aromas of rich ripe black fruit including black cherry and blackberry are layered over hints of cedar and toasted oak, wild anise and powdered cocoa.

Feel – Initially smooth on the attack with its powder textured tannins hitting at mid palate. This dry full-bodied wine is expansive, well-strucutred and chewy with balanced easy acidity.

Taste – Rich and generous, this fruit forward wine has plenty of black cherry, blackberry, hints of wild raspberry and plum that are supported by classic Cab notes of mocha, wild anise, cedar and subtle sweet tobacco and toasted oak.

Finish – Long and lingering dark black fruit fade gently as the powder textured tannins linger on for several minutes.

Conclusion – The 2006 Joseph Family Winery Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a rich and expansive Cabernet that while is youthful and fruit forward has enough structure to cellar for several years to come. Generous dark black fruit is the hallmark of this wine so you’ll enjoy pairing it with rich grilled beef or lamb.

Mission Report:

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WINERY OWNER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jon. We are thrilled to be showing your Cabernet today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. JON JOSEPH: Thanks, Agent Red. Its great to be working with you, again!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JON: When my Nonno Tocalino, who live in North Beach and made his own wine, gave me a small glass of watered down wine when I was five years old. It went great with Nonni’s Gnocchi.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JON: We have been influenced by two winemakers, Scott Peterson, who is a relatively high touch classicist, and David Ramey, who is wholly a low-touch naturalist.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JON: We now make only our own wine.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JON: This Cabernet Sauvignon v2006 won a double gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the largest such competition in the country, and scored 90 points from International Wine Cellar (Tanzer).

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JON: Grilled meats like steak, lamb, or pork chops, and meat rich sauces on pasta.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

JON: Only 15 minutes from Napa Valley, this valley has much of the same growing characteristics and wine quality but the wines are far more reasonably priced.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JON: We are preparing for harvest in early October; it has been a wet and highly variable growing season.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JON: This is first and foremost a food wine. Enjoy it with friends, family and a wonderful dinner.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JON: Alexander Valley is undergoing a renaissance of recognition, with wine makers like David Ramey, Jennifer Higgins, and Jesse Katz greatly impacting the quality of the wine there. You will hear more and more about this region in coming years.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Bq. For your entertainment, what follows is our original mission to today’s winery:

Puma concolor. The California Mountain Lion. There I was, face to face with one of the largest males I had ever seen – and did he ever look hungry!

He emitted a low growl as he circled me, sizing me up. Then he lunged for my ankles…

“MEOW!”

“Okay, Agent Whiskers, you can see the bottle now.”

Agent Whiskers, as most of you Operatives know, is a Wine Cat. While much fuss is made over Wine Dogs – what, with entire coffee table books devoted to them – the Wine Cat is the unsung hero of the winery, keeping both cellar and vineyard free from rodents and other pests.

Agent Whiskers, Codename: Meowbec due to his unusual love for the Malbac grape varietal, is a special sort of Wine Spy. His ability to detect superior wine, before a bottle is ever even opened, for example, is uncanny. Watch for a Meowbec mission upcoming. For now, back to today’s wine:

I show Meowbec the bottle. On the label, a proud California Mountain Lion stands high above a vineyard. I place the bottle on the desk and Meowbec jumps up to inspect it. After gazing at the label for a moment, Meowbec declares, definitively, “Mert!”, an expression I have come to know means, “Great wine!”.

Opening the bottle I offer the cork to Meowbec, who bats it off the desk and onto the floor. His work done for now, he jumps down and proceeds to play a spirited round of cork hockey, a game that will likely last until the first of his afternoon siestas.

The wine is, indeed, excellent. No surprise here, really. Jon Joseph and his team are sincere, dedicated wine folk that are supremely dedicated to their craft.

A richly layered ad well-balanced Cabernet Sauvignon, I found best results after a few hours of decanting. This is a wine that loves to breathe a little before it is imbibed. If you have the patience to let the wine sit for a while, you will be duly rewarded.

Kudos to Jon and the rest of the Joseph Family, ummm, family, for producing such an excellent Cab. Meowbec and the rest of us here at Wine Spies Central Command love the wine!

Keen Operatives will note the location of the Joseph Family vineyards and the proximity to their prestigious neighbors!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Joseph Family Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Scott Harvey Wines Vineyard 1869 Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The Eldest

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Scour the country, in search of the oldest registered Zinfandel vines in the country. If the wine from these vines is superb, procure an ample allotment for our Zin-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Scott Harvey Wines

Wine Subject: 2007 Vineyard 1969 – Amador County Old Vine Zinfandel

Winemaker: Scott Harvey

Backgrounder:

Today’s fantastic selection is made from the country’s oldest recorded Zinfandel vines.

Nestled in California’s once gold-rich Sierra Foothills, the Amador County AVA (American Viticultural Area) has been called California’s last great undiscovered wine growing region. With vineyards that date back to the 19th Century, this region is home to some of the oldest vines in the state. Today, Amador County produces some of the most deeply concentrated and intense Zinfandels in the state. Today’s wine is the best example of a perfectly balanced Amador Zin that we could get our spy paws on. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Gorgeous ruby red hues, with garnet edges and a slightly darkening heart of pure ruby. The wine settles very quickly when swirled, leaving behind tall columns of chubby legs that move steadily down the glass.

Smell – A heady rush of black raspberry and black cherry jump from the glass. These are layered over flavors of bramble, blackberry, cloves, brown spice, cracked leather and black pepper.

Feel – Soft and round on the very tip of the tongue. The wine starts light-weight, and then fine grained tannins take hold, introducing a soft dryness the spreads from the tip of the tongue the the edges of the palate, ultimately (but very gradually) drying the entire palate. This dryness is smooth and somewhat velvety, making the feeling very unique.

Taste – Bold and very flavorful, with pure raspberry, cherry, blackberry out front. These sit easily atop earthen bramble, allspice, smoky blueberry, subtle sweetwoods and black pepper.

Finish – This wine has a long and delightfully graduated finish that starts off sweet and softly spicy. Then, as flavors tail off and the dryness spreads across the palate, the character of the wine stays with you; Flavors never seems to leave your palate and, instead, the soft dryness that remains hold on to flavor for a very long time.

Conclusion – This is a remarkable Zinfandel that our tasting panel went absolutely crazy for. It is somewhat difficult to explain, but bare with me for a moment; The flavors in this wine are big, but the feel of the wine gives these flavors a certain lightness. That is to say that the flavors are not overpowering or cloying. Rather, the sit easily on the tongue – where they seem to linger forever. This is a very special Zinfandel that I think everyone should experience. Not only for the sheer age of the vines (the oldest in the USA), but also for the unique character and sheer deliciousness. As a 2007, we can’t help but be excited for the wine in the next years to come. The wine is great, and should only continue to get better.

Pair this wine with your favorite grilled meat, a great gourmet pizza or a hearty pasta. Most of all, just try this exciting wine!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Scott Harvey

DATE OF BIRTH: 3-24-54

PLACE OF BIRTH: Bamberg, Germany

WINE EDUCATION: 1975, I apprenticed at K. Fitz-Ritter Winery while attending the Weinbau Schule in Neustadt, Germany. Returned to Amador County to apprentice from Cary Gott at Montevina winery.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Montevina, In 1978, at the age of twenty-three, Scott took over as Head Winemaker for Story Winery, worked at Santino Winery and then started Renwood winery with a partner. Later was recruited to Napa Valley to be winemaker and president of Folie a Deux.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Being European trained, I make wines to go with food—good acidity and low pH. This is considered old world style of winemaking.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Barbera

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Named 1 of the top 10 Winemakers in CA by Dan Berger

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: 2003 Scott Harvey Reserve Barbera being selected as 3rd best Barbera in the world outside of Italy.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Wine needs to tell two stories, one I’m Zinfandel, two I’m Napa Valley”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Scott. We are thrilled to be showing your Jana Old Vine Zinfandel today. It is one of the most delicious Zin’s I have tried of late! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SCOTT: Thank you for selecting one of my wines for your program.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SCOTT: When I was sent to Germany as an AFS exchange student in high school, I was sent to a winemaking region of Germany. On my first day there, my “German family” handed me a glass of wine. I looked out the window at the vineyards below, got my German dictionary out and said, “does this wine come from those grapes?” They said “yes, do you want to see where it’s made?” ….and the rest is history.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

SCOTT: I got my basic training in Germany but my recent winemaking style I attribute to my mentor , Dr. Richard Peterson.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

SCOTT: Old world style. Wines that are drunk with food.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SCOTT: Dr. Richard Peterson

RED: How long have you been making wine?

SCOTT: 37 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

SCOTT: myself, my wife, and our consumers

RED: Tell me, what makes the Amador region so special?

SCOTT: Amador County is a mountain region where the high elevation produces good regionally identifiable flavors.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

SCOTT: You need to be a very clean and neat person. 90% of winemaking is janitorial.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SCOTT: Harvest!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

SCOTT: It is from the oldest documented Zinfandel Vineyard in the world. The document that substantiates the vineyards age is dated 1869.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SCOTT: Red meats with lots of juice.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

SCOTT: I like to iron my own shirts.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

SCOTT: Chianti

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

SCOTT: People drink experiences. Have fun with the wine.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

SCOTT: Whatever my wife wants to drink.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

SCOTT: Question: Do you have any new wines planned to make? Answer: I’d love to make a Gewürztraminer from a cold climate region.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we
are big fans!

SCOTT: Thank, Red! Back to harvest for me. See you soon!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Jana Wines and Scott Harvey Wines can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Hook & Ladder Vineyards and Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Five Alarm Pinot

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: After a protracted surveillance, infiltrate Hook & Ladder Vineyards and Winery. Secure their 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Hook & Ladder Vineyards and Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Jason DeLoach

Winery Backgrounder: Three generations and 30 years after entering the wine trade, the DeLoach family are still making extraordinary wines. Cecil, a retired San Francisco firefighter, and his wife, Christine, purchased their first 24 acres of grapes in the Russian River Valley. When the tired of seeing others making award-winning wines from their grapes, they launched their own wine label, under the DeLoach family name. The DeLoach Winery became synonymous with Russian River Pinot Noir and other noble varietals. After selling the DeLoach label, the family launched the Hook & Ladder winery, whose purpose it is to ”craft exceptional wines, from the highest quality grapes, that people love to drink.”

Regional Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting notes below for the full intel on this exciting wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – The unique hues of this wine intrigued our tasting panel! Viewed from the side, the wine shows off the deep red color of cherry juice. When swirled, hues of reddish pink show through. As the wine settles, chubby legs move quickly down the glass.

Smell – Rich and warm, the wine leads with bright cherry, young strawberry, green fig, soft spice and subtle forest floor. After the wine opens up, additional aromas of black cherry, subtle mushroom and soft spice emerge.

Feel – Soft and light-weight on the attack, then the wine reveals a medium weight at the rear of the palate. A tart dryness then spreads from the edges, moving inward. Eventually, this dryness spreads from the tongue, to the lips and cheeks.

Taste – Tart cherry and earthy blackberry lead the way. Caramelized toasty date and black cherry follow. When the wine opens up, after some decanting, the flavors smooth and become more rich, as dark strawberry, ripe plum, clean earth, soft spice and soft toasted French oak follow.

Finish – Long in length, with dark cherry, hints of blackberry, brown spice, soft oak and black pepper add a hint of minerality.

Conclusion – This is a classic Russian River Pinot Noir, with a hint of earthen red Burgundy. This wine wowed our tasting panel with its bold but balanced character and great flavors. The DeLoach family has been making wine in the Russian River Valley for generations, and their experience in the region shines through in this easy-drinking, budget-minded Pinot Noir. We enjoyed our review bottles with roasted pork loin, brown jasmine rice pilaf and a field salad with avocado and pears. The combination was perfection and this food-friendly wine was the stellar accompaniment to our meal.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jason DeLoach

WINE EDUCATION: This year will be my 15th harvest, I just turned 31. Most of my education is all hands on experience, I also did an internship in Chile, took viticulture at the Santa Rosa Jr. college and I did a winemaker course with the UC Davis Extension program. I also worked at a custom crush winery for almost 4 years as a cellar master.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Head winemaker at Hook and Ladder winery

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Make the best wine you can with the tools that are given.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Too much oak in a wine is a crime”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: At Hook and Ladder – Spring 2010

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jason. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Russian River Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JASON DELOACH: Glad I can help.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JASON: I was lucky enough to grow up in the wine industry. When I was 14 I started working for my Grandfather Cecil DeLoach every summer for half my summer vacation – but I couldn’t start working in the cellar till I was 18. So as soon as I turned 18 I started working in the cellar full time. I really liked the controlled chaos of harvest. I really like to work hard, I like team work and I love science. My dad got me hooked on science early on. So really at the time I just figured I would work towards someday being a cellar master..

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JASON: I worked with a lot of wine makers. The 3 years before I started working for Hook and Ladder I was a cellar master at a custom crush winery. Dan Goldfield of Dutton Goldfield, Jeff Mangahas of Hartford Court and Dan Cederquist which was the wine maker for DeLoach vineyards for a long time. He also was a consultant at the custom crush winery where I worked. The thing that was great about working at a custom crush winery is that you work with Winemakers that have really different styles/approaches to what they do and want. There are Winemakers that are super proactive and others that kind of just let the wine do its own thing. I spent the first 6 years of my time just working in the cellar, so I have a pretty good feel for what can be done at a realistic level. I guess I lean towards being realistic but also I’m proactive and expect a lot of what we can accomplish at Hook and Ladder. I know this doesn’t make any sense, but I consider myself a realistic perfectionist.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JASON: I make wine for Hook and Ladder Winery ha ha ha. No, really, my goal at Hook and Ladder is to make the very best wine I can with the tools that are given. I want to show case the best wine I can make, so I guess I answer to myself first – then Cecil.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JASON: 2008 Estate Pinot Noir – this is a great Pinot, I’m really proud of the work that went into this wine. I love the vanilla notes, and the smokiness of this Pinot. It’s really well structured, and complex, I feel like you get new flavors with every sip.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JASON: Grilled Salmon with wild rice and mashed potatoes. Honestly, I love this wine with a little Two-Rock goat cheese on my deck just as much

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

JASON: In the Russian river valley, most mornings have a layer of fog that blankets the vineyards in the morning, then the fog burns off and we have very nice warm afternoons. this is great because the grapes are able to have a longer growing season which produces fruit that is very rich in flavor and is has perfect balance of sugar and acid. So as a winemaker it is my job to take that fruit and do whatever I can to create a wine that shows all of those wonderful qualities. Lucky for us we have over 300 acres of estate grown fruit that Cecil DeLoach has been farming for the last 30 years.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JASON: Everything really, Harvest work and logistics, cellar work, wine maintenance, building blends, getting our wines ready for the bottle, bottling logistics and constant quality control. It’s really never ending. We stay very busy for the most part, there are only 4 of us that are in full time production. Ooh, and sometimes I have to travel to do some winemaker dinners. but I try to avoid that as much as possible. Just kidding.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JASON: Well for our wines, really like people to take their time and let the wine open up, really take in the nose and when you taste the wine try to let your pallet guide you through the wine. At Hook and Ladder we make premium had crafted wines and we really put our full focus on everything we do. When we build a blends, by design the wine should take your pallet on a little journey, from the front of the pallet, to the mid pallet and on to the finish and take note of all the things that you can pick up along the way. We spent a great deal of time building wines that have a pallet that isn’t one sided or strong in one way and weak in another. We want the pallet and noise to be complete and full of character.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JASON: I just really hope everyone enjoys our wines. I encourage you to take the time to learn about Hook and Ladder winery and its history. We really do have a great story and I just want to continue to make the best wines I can. Our wines really just keep getting better every year.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The Hook & Ladder Vineyards and Winery, in the Russian River Valley region, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2000 Mumm Napa Valley DVX

Mission Codename: The Deep End

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate a stellar sparkling wine for our deserving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mumm Napa

Wine Subject: 2000 Mumm Napa DVX

Winemaker: Ludovic Dervin

Backgrounder: For today’s selection, we sent Agent Red out in search of an extraordinary sparkling wine. He did not need to look far; Ever since Agent Red fell in love with them on a mission more than three years ago, Mumm Napa winery has been a Wine
Spies mainstay.

Today, Agent Red returns with an exclusive secret cache of Mumm Napa’s flagship sparkling wine, their 94-point 2000 DVX. Read his detailed tasting notes and mission report below, which includes an interview with Mumm winemaker Ludovic Dervin. NOTE: Each bottle comes with the signature metal wine flute, shown hanging from the bottle in the photo above.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Delicate bubbles cascade upward in spiraling columns, through wine of pale straw color. Swirl the wine, slightly, and the columns of bubbles excite, sending additional bubbles outward, filling the glass.

Smell – Delicate at first sniff, with aromas of delicate white flowers, yeasty fresh bread dough, young strawberry and the finest hint of navel orange. After some time in the glass, and as the wine warms just slightly, additional aromas of nutty vanilla, apricot, soft cherry and fine apple emerge.

Feel – Fine bubbles play across the palate, remaining consistent in size and volume, throughout. The wine is soft and wet all around the palate, with a very pleasing smoothness that is uncommon in most sparkling wines.

Taste – Superbly delicious, with refined flavors of fresh red apple, fresh baked bread, acacia flower, nutty vanilla, apricot, easy citrus, subtle cherry and the slightest hint of strawberries and milk chocolate.

Finish – Beautifully flavorful and long as aromas of white flowers, soft citrus and soft cherry tail off slowly, in a creamy finish that lingers long after the effervescence has subsided.

Conclusion – This is, by far, the best domestic bubbly I have had the pleasure to taste. With a perfect mouthfeel that makes you want to sip and sip this delicious bubbly, our tasting panel found it hard to put its glasses down for very long. Review bottles were depleted quickly, as this bubbly was discussed and enjoyed. Flavors are light, but not subtle or restrained. Similarly, aromatics don’t leap out of the glass, but are more refined and very natural. Overall, this is an extraordinarily pleasing bubbly that is a true delight to drink. We paired ours with thin-crust pizza Bianco (no tomato sauce) with Gruyere, apple slices, thick-cut bacon and leeks. The pairing was total perfection. If you are looking for an amazing sparkling wine, you have found it. Mumm’s 94-point 2000 DVX is a brilliant bubbly!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Ludovic Dervin

DATE OF BIRTH: November 1970

PLACE OF BIRTH: Meaux, France

WINE EDUCATION: Diplome National d’Oenologue in Reims, France., Diplome d’Etudes Superieures en Oenologie des Vins de Champagne in Reims, France.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Wine maker for Mumm Napa

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balanced wines, with power and elegance

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Mainly blends, with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Creating a new wine with Musician Carlos Santana, to benefit underprivileged children, called SANTANA RESERVE.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Sparkling wines are not wines to keep for special occasions, but wines which will make any occasion special!”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Ludovic. We are thrilled to be showing your 2000 DVX today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

LUDOVIC: Bonjour, again, Agent Red, and many thanks for showcasing our flagship sparkling today!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

LUDOVIC: I think it all started playing hide and seek in the Champagne vineyards. I was always curious about the life cycle of grapes to wine as a kid, and all the culture surrounding it. I don’t think it is really one specific bottle of wine or wine experience that lead me to embrace winemaking as a professional career, but rather the sum of many small experiences growing up in the vineyards of Champagne. Winemaking has all the ingredients that I enjoy in life. A perfect mix of cultural traditions and modern science, interactions with our environment and people. Grape vines also tend to grow in some of the most beautiful regions of the world, such as our Napa valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

LUDOVIC: I studied winemaking science and craftsmanship mainly in Champagne in my early days, but I also traveled and made wines in the new world and old world of winemaking. California, Greece, South Africa, France.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

LUDOVIC: I like to craft wines which are balanced, fruit forward and food friendly. I like wines with a crisp and refreshing acidity, with depth, power and elegance. The fruit forwardness, freshness and elegance are achieved through meticulous farming and gentle handling of the fruit to avoid excessive bruising of the berries. I think it is important to let the fruit express itself through minimum winemaking intervention, but it is the daily attention to details which separate good wines to world class excellence.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

LUDOVIC: Again, it is more a combination of all that I encountered through my life that influences my winemaking style today, rather than one single event or person. I am not trying to duplicate or emulate somebody else’s style or personality, but rather look for my own. So I only look at my past encounters as a source of inspiration to build upon. I was lucky enough to work with some great mentors through my career and it is hard to single out any one of them. If I had to pick one person each for Still wines and Sparkling wines who significantly influence how I approach winemaking today I would say Bob Cabral from Williams Selyem and Daniel Thibault from Champagne Charles and Piper Heidsieck.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

LUDOVIC: My first winemaking job was in 1990 working as one of the harvest interns at Champagne GH Mumm in France.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

LUDOVIC: I always try to keep the consumer in mind for each different wine I make. My ultimate goal is to make wines that people want. But every-once in a while I like to make small batches just to experiment for myself.

RED: Tell me, what makes Carneros so special?

LUDOVIC: The Carneros District, with its cool evenings, foggy mornings and warm days, provides the best climate around for producing the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. When we go out tasting the grapes, we’re looking for even ripening, while maintaining high acidity and moderate sugar levels. These qualities are what create elegant, ageable sparkling wines that we can enjoy through the years.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

LUDOVIC: I think to be a good winemaker; you need to have a good sense of observation, and be prepared for a lot of long and sleepless nights during harvest.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

LUDOVIC: We are just wrapping up our harvest. We have brought in all of our sparkling wine grapes and have begun bringing in some still wine grapes. Our efforts have just begun in the cellar as we are now in the midst of watching all the separate lots in their primary fermentation. Everyone has been working long hours and it is paying off. Although a very strange year, with the extended rains in the spring and cooler than usual summer, I think it will prove to be an excellent year for sparkling.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

LUDOVIC: Not only is this my favorite wine to make, but it is the best wine that we create from each vintage. It is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, from the Carneros District. We carefully press the grapes to minimize contact with the skins so that we have a brilliantly clear bubbly in the end. It is a blend of 14 lots that are each kept separate during primary fermentation to fully express individual vineyard characteristics and strengths. We fermented 30% in barrel to add depth and spiciness. Then aged it sur lees for five and a half years. We disgorged it as a brut style and aged it another 6 months on the cork before release.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

LUDOVIC: We poured this at our annual Lobster Dinner for Club Members and it was fantastic. Since we can’t have lobster every day, I would recommend it with some fresh tomatoes of the season piled with burratta, drizzled in olive oil and balsamic and sprigs of basil. Anything fresh from the garden over a bed of angel hair pasta and some shaved parmesan would be good too, as the acidity holds up well to the saltiness of aged cheeses and the crispness of freshly sautéed vegetables. But as fall approaches, the nutty, autolytic qualities lend it to pairing well with roasted chicken and wild mushrooms in a white wine sauce over pappardelle.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

LUDOVIC: I don’t have TV at home.

RED: Nor do I! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

LUDOVIC: I am not an everyday kind of person. I believe in diversity and complexity, so my everyday wine somewhat changes everyday. But I tend to drink a lot of our DVX tête de cuvee sparkling wine, and a lot of Pinot Noir still wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

LUDOVIC: Very simply actually. We try to make different wines with very different styles and personality at Mumm Napa, so each person can find a wine they like. We all are different people and through our various life experiences, we tend to enjoy different flavors and textures. The best way to enjoy wine for me is with good food and good company. When you approach wine that way, you can really enjoy diversity. I tend to craft wines with crisp and refreshing acidity, because they pair better with food, and tend to age better. The most important thing to keep in mind when you taste wine is your personal integrity and palate. Think for yourself and don’t try to like a wine just because someone else gave it a good score or because it is expensive. Just experience and have fun. Most important with sparkling wines, get out of the habit to open them only for special occasions. They are extremely food friendly, and their festive spirit will enhance the atmosphere in a way that will make every occasion special.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

LUDOVIC: In the bubbly form, I am a big fan of Don Ruinart Champagne. A magnum of their Blanc de Blanc would work for me.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

LUDOVIC: Besides winemaking, what is the most important thing in your life; My family.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

LUDOVIC:Always a pleasure to share good time with good friends. Thanks a lot for your support and best wishes for the coming season!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mumm Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Trentadue Winery La Storia Cuvee 32

Mission Codename: Tuscany Calling

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Acquire the operative favorite La Storia Cuvee 32 Super Tuscan from Trentadue Winery in Sonoma County’s pristine Alexander Valley

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trentadue

Wine Subject: 2006 Trentadue La Storia Cuvee 32

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

The broad category of wines often times called Super Tuscans is originally an Italian designation (usualy IGT and Rosso Toscana) – but this hasn’t stopped winemakers on this side of the pond from creating delicious wines in this style. Most of these wines are Sangiovese based with the addition of other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and all are unique blends that gives the winery much more flexibility with regard to the more stringent Italian Goria DOC and DOCG designations as used in Italy or TTB or Meritage Association labeling requirements.

The Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Read Agent White’s detailed tasting notes and winemaker interview, below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest garnet with a fine rim of ruby out at the edge. Thick legs start high on the glass when swirled. At the core of the wine, hues of darkest plum are visible through the inkiness.

Smell – Bold intensity, with dark cherry and blackberry leaping from the glass. These are joined by rich, spiced blueberry, cassis and black fig. Toasty notes of vanilla and oak mingle with brown spice and a hint of anise.

Feel – A smooth entry leads to a full-bodied feel that coats the mouth, drying with a spicy minerality as soft tannins take hold. An easy acidity and soft minerals add to the appealing feel and reinforcing the wines Super Tuscan kinship.

Taste – Bold and full-flavored, leading with tangy blackberry and young strawberry. Mixed plums and black fig mingle with cranberry and tart cherry, yielding to soft spice, black pepper and crushed dark red flower petals.

Finish – Medium long, with smoky dark fruit and tangy black plum, pronounced cherry and cranberry yielding to dark spice, dark minerals and black pepper.

Conclusion – This year’s vintage of Trentadue’s Cuvee 32, is a brilliant follow-up the the 2005 that we featured last year. Darker than the 2005, this wine also shows a spicier side that seems more true to its Tuscan brethren than the previous vintage. Today’s wine, the 2006 vintage, is a delicious wine that delivers bold aromatics and a very balanced flavor profile that our tasting panel found to be a delicious delight. Pair with a homemade pizza or a robust pasta dish. This wine is true delight that is a treat for all of your sense.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: 02.04.1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country… There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MIRO: The La Storia wines are our reserve wines, our best effort. The grapes are exclusively grown on our Geyserville Estate, located across from Francis Coppola Winery and next to Clos Dubois.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Our Cuvee 32 (my version of a “Super Tuscan” Blend)can be easily used instead of Cabernet in most recipes. Many meat dishes-most obviously stakes will be greatly complimented by the elevated acidity and solid tannin base of this wine. Our Cuvee 32 is an excellent choice for many tomato based pasta dishes. For the vegetarians try it with spicy eggplant, roasted Portobello, and many Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

WINEMAKER: Geyserville area is in the middle of the Alexander Valley where grape growing dates back more than a century. Some of our blocks are still the original vineyards planted back in 1896. Our Sangiovese block was planted almost 40 years ago, the Montepulciano is the latest addition to our vineyards and was planted 10 years ago. The climate and soils around the banks of the Russian River are perfect for any red varieties-deep, gravely, well drained soils that provide the building blocks for great color and depth in all of our fruit. The profile is always in the deep dark and red stone fruits with considerable body.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: This year has been very strange so far and we are still in the mode of “Grape Expectation”. We crushed only about 10 tons up to date and time is marching on. Hopefully will have couple of weeks of warm weather.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trentadue Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Stags’ Leap Winery Napa Valley Petite Syrah

Mission Codename: Le Grand

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate world famous Stags’ Leap winery – and secure an exclusive Library cache of their fabled Napa Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Stags’ Leap Winery

Wine Subject: 2003 Stags’ Leap Napa Valley Petite Sirah

Backgrounder: The Stags Leap District in Napa Valley gained worldwide acclaim when, in 1976, wines from the region bested their French rivals in the now-infamous Judgment of Paris. Today’s wine from our friends at Stags’ Leap Winery is a rich, delicious and character-filled wine that reinforces the widely-held belief that the best wines in California come from the Stags Leap district.

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and inky Burgundy, with a thick ring of beautiful ruby that circles the glass. When swirled, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind thick legs that are stained the color of the wine.

Smell – Lush and very fragrant, the aromas of this wine can be smelled from a foot away from the glass! Black cherry and ripe blackberry leap from the glass when you inhale. These are joined closely by black plum, blueberry preserves and soft spice. At the very end, soft yet intriguing aromas of pine, caramel and cedar round out the gorgeous nose.

Feel – Light, cool and wet at the entry. Then, plush tannins introduce a soft dryness that very gradually increases, spreading frpm the center of the palate to the lips and cheeks.

Taste – Bold and bright, but in beautiful balance, the flavors here lead with blackberry, blueberry, black cherry and red plum. These are tempered against smoky Bing cherry, softest cedar and the flavors of crushed black rose petals. At the very end, a hint f brown spice and black pepper appear for a moment.

Finish – Long and dynamic, with fruit flavors that are sustained for a long time. As the dryness gradually increases, some flavors also increase before tailing off. This is an intriguing aspect to this wine that surprised and delighted us.

Conclusion – Where may a Petite Sirah is overpowering, this beautifully aged wine is very elegant and shows real finesse. The aromas are big. So big that they leap across the table at you, long before you even reach for your glass. On the palate, the feel is restrained for a Petite. The wine is smooth and soft, eventually revealing a soft grip that gives the wine a fullness – without smashing your teeth in as some Petites can. Flavors are full and delicious, but elegant and not at all overpowering. Whether the superior balance and appeal of this wine can be attributed to its age, its fruit, or the skills of its winemaker is irrelevant; What matters most is that this wine is a true delight!

Mission Report:

With Harvest 2010 upon us, we were unable to sit down with Stags’ winemaker for our customary interview. For your entertainment and education, below is our original mission report – from back when we first discovered Stags’ Leap wonderful Viognier:

I have become a real fan of blind tasting. Tasting a wine, without knowing who makes it, is a great practice. It evens the playing field and makes the judging of the wine far more fair.

When considering today’s wine, I was faced with my own preconceived notion of the wine – especially of the brand. Stags’ Leap Winery is one of those almost mythic brands that just scream quality. Want to buy the good Stags’ wine? You don’t have to research your options overly; Just pick your favorite varietal and be virtually assured that you will enjoy the wine.

Because of this bias, I decided to taste blind. I pulled two other Viognier bottles from my secret stash and placed all three bottles into paper bags. Then I grabbed Agent Sparkle and we headed down to our favorite local wine bar to enlist the help of the owner and whatever customers we could wrangle.

Once there, we had one of the servers open the bottles and mix them up, and the bottles were marked ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’. Another server poured. In all, there were 8 of us tasting the wines. The other Viognier in the tasting were all respectable in their own right, so the judging would be as fair as possible.

After we had tasted all three wines, a clear and immediate winner seemed to emerge. One of the wines brought the most smiles and positive comments, but we had to be sure. We assigned a point value to 1st, 2nd and 3rd place and each of us awarded points to our ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’ wines. We enlisted the help of a non-drinking customer in tallying the points.

The ‘C’ wine was the overwhelming winner. When I grabbed the bag that contained our ‘C’ selection, I knew immediately what was inside. The distinctive voluptuous shape of the bottle told me that our winner was the 2007 Stags’ Leap Viognier! I slowly pulled the bottle out and then gently set the bottle on the table. There was a moment of contemplative silence – and then actual applause broke out. What a great moment and what a great wine!

We hope you enjoy this beauty as much as we have. Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Stags’ Leap Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.