2009 Azur Wines Rosé

Mission Codename: True Provence

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: In time for Summertime fun, Infiltrate Azur Winery and secure an ample quantity of their Provence-style Rosé

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Azur Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 Rosé

Winemaker: Julien Fayard

Backgrounder:

The Wine Spies are always on the hunt for the best wines that we can find. When it comes to Rosé , we are exceedingly difficult to please. Today’s wine comes to us from one of Agent Red’s favorite new wineries, Azur Wines. Made by French winemaker, Julien Fayard, Azure’s wines are crafted in a traditional Provence style, making them a refreshing and complex departure from California Rosé .

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful light copper at its heart, this wine shows a ring of fine peach hues at its edges. When swirled, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind a cascade of chubby legs that begin high up on the glass.

Smell – Bright and complex, with a very unique mix of aromas. These include warm summer earth, pumpkin flowers, strawberry leaf, orange peel, subtle tutti-frutti candy and subtle dried fall leaves.

Feel – Soft on entry with a grippiness that starts at the rear of the palate and spreads forward, leading to a softly viscous, crushed velvet feel and a soft minerality.

Taste – Tart citrus peel, young strawberry, dried pink rose petal, earthy violets and wildflower honey.

Finish – Medium long and delicate, with citrus peel, chalky minerals, wildflower honey and berry bramble.

Conclusion – This is a unique and character-driven Rosé that invites extended sniffing and sipping. The more time I spent with the wine, the more I got from it. Brighter and more complex than most California Rosé, this born-in-California wine is crafted in a true Provence style that give the wine a unique overall profile. This, in turn, provide you with a truly unique sipping experience that should no fan of Rosé should miss. We paired our sample bottles with shredded pork tacos, which worked beautifully. I would also recommend serving with an assortment of hard cheeses, such as a Mimolette. Most of all, enjoy this complex and character-filled Rosé with good friends!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Julien Fayard

WINE EDUCATION: Master of Agribusiness at the Agricultural university of Angers : ESA, Master in Winemaking and fermentation sciences

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Azurwines (Napa, USA) 07 – Present – Owner; Atelier Melka (Napa, USA), 06 – present – Position: Managing director, Projects: Lail Vineyards, Parallel Napa Valley, Gemstone, Melkawines, Dalla Valle, Norma Hunt, Tusk, Feathered Horse, Marston Family, Quintessa: 2003 Harvest intern

Outside of California: Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Chateau Sainte Marguerite

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Let the site speaks for itself. Be non-interventionist.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Napa: A Burgundian approach of Cabernet Sauvignon”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2007

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Julien. We are thrilled to be showing your 2009 Rose today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: It is my pleasure.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: I cannot recall a specific experience. Being born and raised in France, I grew up around wine and organically grew into the wine business. I am fascinated by the complexity of wine and the young child intrigue around the family table became a daily passion

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: In California , my mentor is Philippe Melka which I had the chance to work closely with since 2006. Most influential wines would be Dalla Valle and Lail Vineyards.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

WINEMAKER: Today we are featuring Azur Rose 2009. This wine is a dry rose composed of Syrah and a little bit of Semillon. I respect the way rose are made on the French Riviera and use the exact same technique with California fruits that I named Method Provencale: it involves, 100% direct press, cold fermentation and stainless steel aging. What sets Azur apart from the other rose is the dedication of the fruits for the project: Vineyards are 100% farmed to produce rose, grapes are picked at optimum maturity for rose. And this makes all the difference and sets Azur apart from its competition.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: What is your favorite dish? Azur rose is very versatile and a gastronomical delight to be paired with. Try, you’ll be surprised!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: Making wine, year round – full schedule.

RED: Thank you for visiting with us today, Julien. We love your rose!

2007 Robert Stemmler Winery Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Pioneering California Pinot

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Infiltrate Robert Stemmler Winery and acquire their delicious Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Robert Stemmler Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the independent Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. Originally designated in 1983, the region’s distinct Terroir and cool climate make it one of the best regions for the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first grapes were planted here in the early 1800s by missionaries. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby red in color with bright ruby streaks throughout its clear but intense core. The color remains deep to the meniscus and when swirled, this wine leaves randomly spaced medium thick legs that move deliberately down to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity with complex aromas of sandalwood, graphite gun smoke, herbal mint and a soft earthy minerality that blends perfecting with the bright but balanced red fruit, specifically red cherry notes.

Feel – Smooth and supple, this dry medium-to-full bodied wine has silky medium tannins that are buttressed by lively acidity and balanced minerality.

Taste – Fresh and rich red cherry along with other red fruit melds with notes of cola, soft spice, soft earthy minerality, herbal notes including mint, and hints of sandalwood and oak.

Finish – Medium long in length with the lingering ripe cherry fading gracefully leaving behind a touch of acidity that holds onto the complex flavors and invites another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Robert Stemmler Winery Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir is a delicious example of why the Carneros region is so highly regarded for Pinot Noir. Bright ruby color with an inviting and complex nose. Supple and smooth on the palate with fresh red fruit and other classic complex Pinot flavors that linger into the finish. Drinking lovely right now, but will certainly cellar well for at least the next five years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Kenneth Juhasz

WINE EDUCATION: Industry Learned

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Began working with Donum Estate in 2002, now consult with several California wineries and own Auteur

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Dualism, great structure while maintaining elegance

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Summer 2003 – 2002 Stemmler Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Kenneth, we are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Carneros Estate Grown Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KENNETH: Great to be here.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KENNETH: No, it was a series of experiences in the restaurant business where I came to understand the beauty and lifestyle of wine and the culture around it.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KENNETH: Montrachet

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

KENNETH: I make wine for the vineyard, I do everything or as little as possible to let the vineyard speak.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

KENNETH: It is a scope of all the clones from the Donum Estate, each farmed and made separately, it is an expression of both the place and people that work there.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KENNETH: Roasted Chicken

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the CARNEROS so special?

KENNETH: Not only its beauty, but the maritime feel of Southern Carneros; often you can taste the sea salt in the air and sometimes in the wine from the breezes that blow off San Pablo Bay.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KENNETH: Less in the winery, more in the vineyard, we are starting verasion, when the green grapes start to change red, and it is time to inspect crop levels and make final fruit thinning passes.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

KENNETH: Do not expect all power, look for and enjoy finesse.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KENNETH: Thank you, it has been a pleasure working with you.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Robert Stemmler Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Viader Napa Valley Syrah

Mission Codename: St. Joseph goes Down Under

Operative: Agent White

Objective: respond to operative request and acquire Viader’s delicious Napa Valley – Howell Mountain Syrah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Viader

Wine Subject: 2006 Napa Valley Syrah

Winemaker: Alan Viader & Delia Viader

Backgrounder: The Howell Mountain region in the Napa Valley is the birthplace of some of our very favorite wines. We fell in love early on and we have not been disappointed by a high-elevation Howell Mountain wine yet like today’s delicious Syrah.

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delicious Syrah is a delight with original flavors, deep aromatics and a tender mouth feel.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby red with purple hues throughout its clear but dense ruby red heart. When swirled, fast fat legs laden with color ring the glass and are followed by slow thin legs that hang before descending to the ruby edges of this wine.

Smell – Plush and fruit forward, but still balanced. Ripe dark blackberry, plum and cherry blend with cocoa, spice, dark earthy minerals and black licorice. A touch of vanilla oak along with floral and herbal notes round out the nose.

Feel – Velvet smooth, rich and mouth-coating, this full-bodied wine chewy with softly ripe but present tannins and lively acidity.

Taste – Generous ripe and rich blackberry, sweet cherry and plum layer with cocoa, dark earthy minerality, soft peppery spice, black licorice and a balanced herbal and floral notes.

Finish – Lingering ripe and fresh fruit fade first leaving behind its other complex flavors that are supported by this wine’s rich and mouth-coating texture.

Conclusion – The 2006 Viader Napa Valley Syrah is a delicious wine. We can see how others describe this wine as having a Northern Rhone character – its complexity and rich dry smoothness provides a lot of finesse and its complex aromas and flavors really deliver. Pack with fruit and its boldness makes it also distinctly California in style. A delicious wine worthy of your table and cellar.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Delia Viader, PhD

WINE EDUCATION: Delia Viader, founder and winemaker (pronounced “vee-ah-dare”) grew up in France as the daughter of a diplomat and might never have become a winemaker at all, having completed a doctorate in philosophy at the Sorbonne and studied financial management at M.I.T. and the University of CA at Berkeley. But she was a wine enthusiast and, as a single mother, she wanted to raise her children in a natural setting like the Napa valley.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: founded VIADER in the early 80’s when only a handful of women were recognized in an industry that for so long has been predominantly male dominated.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: She came to the wine business with a global perspective and from the beginning her wines have found their place amongst the great vintages of the world.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”When you taste a wine from a great vineyard, it has a distinct personality: a taste, a feel, a look; something that makes it different from any vineyard in the world. This distinct personality however, is the sum of a variety of personalities within the vineyard itself. Understanding and interpreting those personalities, is the greatest challenge in the evolution of a great vineyard and the wines produced from it.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1989 VIADER 60 Cabernet Sauvignon and 40 Cabernet franc proprietary blend – 2000 for the first (estate grown produced and bottled) Viader Syrah clonal selection.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Delia Viader. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Viader clonal selection Rhone Syrah today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DELIA: You’re very welcome. Fire away!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DELIA: When I was about 12 years old, my father passed me a taste from his glass and asked for my opinion. I thought it was the nicest wine I had ever tasted. It turned out to be a 1970 Petrus! It was his favorite “Merlotte” (he would pronounce the “t”) that he would bring out for special occasions.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DELIA: In terms of shining the light on aspiring towards elegance in wine, I would say Emile Peynaud.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

DELIA: I make wine for people to enjoy with food and to encourage conviviality.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DELIA: The Viader wines aren’t made in the style of the California fruit “bomb” but rather in a more subtle and with more ‘seductive’ structural elements. This particular clonal selection of 2006 Viader Syrah shows the powerful imprint of the grape variety in its overtones of ‘cooked bacon’ with a nuanced and more velvety raspberries interpretation laced with suave black pepper counterpoint, which is typical of the Viader Syrah style.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DELIA: Mildly spiced tapas or pasta dishes and of course, try it with Jamon Iberico if you can find it.

RED: Yum! In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

DELIA: The hillside location -both in altitude and latitude in the Napa valley – the perfect facing sun exposure plus the rocky volcanic soil composition. All elements coinciding to highlight, without a doubt, what are considered the best and most elusive characteristics of the Syrah grape.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DELIA: Everything we do, practically every day, is in preparation for the most crucial moment in the life of a fine wine grower, that of the harvest.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

DELIA: Expect to be pleasantly surprised by the approachability, the purity of the fruit, and the elegance of structure.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

DELIA: Do your heart a favor, drink a glass of wine with your meal!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Viader in Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Raymond Burr Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Chardonnay

Mission Codename: The Orchid

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Raymond Burr winery, to retrieve their just-in-time-for-summer, gold medal-winning, 2007 Chardonnay – before it goes on lock-down!

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Raymond Burr Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Chardonnay

Winemaker: Phyllis Zouzounis

Backgrounder: Named after the late actor, Raymond Burr Vineyards may be best known for its exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon, but their Chardonnay is truly their hidden Summertime gem. The Dry Creek Valley, in Northern Sonoma County, receives more rain and enjoys a longer growing season than neighboring regions. These conditions make for perfect Chardonnay grape growing.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Sparkling and perfectly clear, the wine shows off a vibrant straw-yellow hue, with glinting highlights at the edges of the wine. Swirl the wine as you hold it to the light to see these bright details. When the wine settles, skinny legs run slowly down the glass.

Smell – Ultra-clean and vibrant, with fresh citrus, fresh cut lemon grass, dried acacia, green fig and white peach. As the wine warms, additional aromas of hawthorn, flint and subtle apricot pit emerge.

Feel – Initially tangy and bright on the attack, the wine presents bold flavors and a hint of spice that fill the mouth with a round, then softly drying fullness that gives the wine a very full-bodied feel in the mouth.

Taste – Bold flavors or fresh, sweet citrus, leading with yellow grapefruit, pink grapefruit, pineapple and zest. These are followed by flavors of flint, white spice, orange flower honey, toasty vanilla, soft oak and tart green apple.

Finish – A very long finish with integrated flavors of its fruit, oak and vanilla. Citrus flavors, in particular, take a long time to tail off. As these fade, the soft spice and minerals leave a warm but refreshed feeling in the mouth.

Conclusion – We are big fans of Raymond Burr Vineyards red wines, so we had high expectations from today’s Chardonnay. They were met – and then some. This wine is rafted in a bolder style than many California Chardonnay and, in m opinion, this is a very good thing, as I find many a Cali Card to be flabby and boring. Drink well chilled for best results, but experiment with drinking the wine at different temperatures to experience the full range of flavors that the wine presents. Pair this wine with nearly anything, especially stronger cheeses and fruit, or grilled chicken with lemon and herb rub. If you are looking for a character-driven Summertime wine, this bold Chardonnay gets our sincere recommendation. Decant and allow to warm, just a little, for best results.

Mission Report:

Now that we are great friends with the folks at Raymond Burr Vineyards, additional surveillance or infiltration is not necessary. Now that they have been recruited into The Wine Spies Network, we can just return to them to ask for wine.

No new mission report today, so please read below for a recap of our inaugural mission to Raymond Burr Vineyards.

Prior Mission Recap:

Ask anyone to describe Raymond Burr in a single word and, resoundingly, you will likely hear, Classy.

The veteran actor, for whom today’s winery was honorarily named, was also a cultivator of orchids, a war hero, a philanthropist and more. Most of all, he was cherished and loved by his close friends, who say that his warmth, humor and compassion made him a remarkable man.

When I was given the mission – finally – to seek out a new Cabernet Franc, I riffled through my mental Rolodex and recalled hearing great things about a Cab Franc from Raymond Burr Winery. In fact, it was in the most unusual way that I had come to hear of the wine in the first place.

On returning from a mission to Latin America, our flight got in to Miami too late to make our connecting flight back to California. the airline put us up in a swanky hotel and the next morning we found ourselves in a shuttle back to the Airport. I struck up a conversation with a young couple who were also on our inbound flight and, as always, I steered the conversation toward wine. We compared tastes in varietals and found that Cab Franc wines were among our very favorites. We traded recommendations and they assured me that Raymond Burr had a wine that I would be sure to love.

Now that I was finally assigned a Cab Franc mission I knew just where to go, so I called proprietor and long time companion to Mr. Burr, Robert Benevides. I used the direct approach and told him that I was very interested in sampling his wine and, if they passed the test, feature his Cabernet Franc here for our Operatives to enjoy.

I enjoyed this exceptional wine more with each sip. With enough time to stretch out in the air, the wine really opens up and loses the rough edges present on opening. For best results, decant the wine for a few hours – and enjoy at cellar temperature.

Aromas, flavors, acid and mouth-feel are all in harmony here and the finish is really very unique. If you love great Cabernet Franc, look no further Operative, its right here.

Finally, I remember hearing a story about Mr. Burr that sums up his life and his wines: While working with Errol Flynn, Flynn told Mr. Burr that if he died with ten dollars in his pocket he hadn’t done a good job. This inspired Mr. Burr to always share his wealth with all. His legacy lives on in today’s wine from Mr. Burr’s namesake winery.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Raymond Burr Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Peterson Winery Shinbone

Mission Codename: Burly Not Girly

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Peterson Winery and acquire an allocation of their highly coveted Shinbone Shiraz/Cabernet Blend.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Shinbone Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Blend

Winemaker: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder:

Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. While The Wine Spies have been trying to keep from acquiring too many wines from the region when the wines are great, so why not? Today’s selection is a delicious blend of 60% Shiraz form the Olson vineyard and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Enos Vineyard.

Shiraz, while genetically the same as Syrah, this grape adopts its local character and Terroir to become distinctly Dry Creek in style. Incidentally, the name Shiraz comes from the capital of Fars (Persia) even though this grape traces its roots back to French breeding.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dense dark purple with an almost blackish inky core that when held to the light shows just hints of garnet in its core. Along the edges, the color remains deep garnet purple and when swirled, randomly spaced slow color laden legs ring the glass.

Smell – Rich, bold and ripe dark black-fruit aromas including plush blackberry meld with a solid mocha cocoa component, spice, layers of oak and a touch of meaty leather.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this full-bodied wine has firm but plush tannins, balanced acidity and a touch of dark minerality that coats the palate, is chewy in the mouth and lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Dark and black spiced and ripe fruit lead the way with the brambly wild blackberry from the nose leading the way. Layers of oak and licorice, cocoa, cigar tobacco, a hint of pungent spice on the side of the tongue and leather notes all blend together providing a generous and rich flavor profile.

Finish – Long and lingering with this wine’s ripe and rich fruit lingering and fading just before the solid structure of this wine fades.

Conclusion – The 2005 Peterson Winery Shinbone Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Blend definitely fits in Peterson’s ’burly not girly’ category. Big fruit and other complex notes on the nose, a solid rich and chewy mouth-feel that grips and holds on tight, fantastic blackberry fruit flavors with cocoa, spice and oak and other classic Shiraz and Cab flavors just keep coming. A fun wine that will find itself perfectly at home when you fire up the barbecue!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jamie Peterson

DATE OF BIRTH: March 20, 1981

PLACE OF BIRTH: Saratoga, CA (Mt. Eden Vineyards)

WINE EDUCATION: Ongoing, on-the-job. UC Davis Extension chemistry/lab analysis/viticulture classes.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Grew up in Peterson Winery, helping with odd jobs in the winery and vineyard as a teenager. Worked first harvest at 19, and then traveled to Australia and New Zealand to work harvest in 2001. took over as Assistant Winemaker at Peterson Winery in 2002. Given full Winemaker responsibility in 2006.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Zero Manipulation”/Minimal intervention, letting the vineyard and vintage show through in each bottling. No fining, no filtration. Minimal new oak usage, minimal additions and SO2 use.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”If it ain’t got the root, it ain’t got the fruit.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2002 Vintage, released in 2004

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Jamie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Shinbone, today. We love the wine!! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. And, thanks for making such amazing wines!

JAMIE: Thank you for giving me the time.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JAMIE: It’d be hard to pick one. Growing up with the sights, sounds, and smells of the winery and vineyards, there were many inspirational moments. But I didn’t think I’d be getting into the life of wine as deeply as I have until I worked harvests in 2001 in Australia and New Zealand. Seeing the international wine community and how it ties people together made me decide to come back to the family winery and join full time in 2002.

WHITE: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JAMIE: From my father, growing up in the winery, and being able to learn on the job.

WHITE : What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JAMIE: I believe that vineyard and vintage driven wines are the only reason for small wineries to exist. I prefer wines from different vintages to reflect the growing season (otherwise why put the vintage on the bottle?) rather than use additives (acid, tannins, enzymes, gum arabic, overblown new oak) or technological processes (filtration, alcohol removal, micro-oxygenation) to create wines that taste the same each year. I don’t filter or fine our wines, and I predominantly use native yeast fermentations and malo-lactics, so we have to keep things clean and monitor closely, as we don’t choose to use the tools for fixing mistakes that some wineries do. We source from the same vineyards each year, so there is a thread of continuity running through vintages. Our vineyards are sustainably farmed, with a few certified organic, and a number of others dry-farmed.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JAMIE: I’m inspired by European vintners who have made wines from the same places for generations, and haven’t succumbed to commercialism.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

JAMIE: 2002 was my first full year of working with wines from grape to bottle. 2000 was the first full harvest I worked with my father. At 28, I have 12 harvests under my belt (including working in both Australia and New Zealand in 2001).

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

JAMIE: I make wines for my own tastes, and then we find enough people that share our ideas to buy it. We don’t submit our wines for scoring or competitions.

WHITE: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

JAMIE: The Dry Creek Valley features and amazing array of soil types and exposures for such a geographically small area, leading to a diverse range of flavors and subtleties in wines, even of the same varietal. This is why we make multiple single-vineyard Zinfandels, and it also helps us make varietal wines with complex flavors from blending from different parts of the valley, such as our Petite Sirah.

WHITE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JAMIE: Realize that winemaking is both simple and complicated. It’s all just fermented grape juice, but it’s all about the details; every minute little thing you do or don’t do to the grapes or wine will affect how it turns out.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JAMIE: We’ll be bottling the majority of our 2008 reds in the next couple months. We’re keeping an eye on and tasting the 2009 wines in barrel (which are great, by the way), and starting to think about potential blends. We’re checking on the newly awakened vineyards as well, and seeing how the start of the growing is season is progressing.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JAMIE: The Shinbone was born out of a progression of influences and events coming together. Both my father and I have spent time in wineries in Australia, where Shiraz is king (or duke… since Cabernet Sauvignon is probably really “king” everywhere…), and they create some very nice blends with it. In 2006, our grapegrowing neighbor and friend Dave Olson had some Syrah grapes he was looking to sell that made more of the soft, fruity “Shiraz” style wine than we were getting from our own mountain vineyard, and we jumped at the chance to take the fruit. The resulting wine inspired us to try blending with the darker, structured hillside Cab, and the blend was born. The Shinbone label was an idea our designer, Chris Blum, had been working on, and we felt it fit the wine perfectly with the strong yet fun image and style.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JAMIE: This wine is perfect with something off the ‘barbie (BBQ); Smoked ribs, with a tangy sauce. We describe this wine as a bit of “yin and yang, sweet and sour” wine, with sweet fruit from the Shiraz, and nice tangy acidity from the Cabernet.

WHITE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JAMIE: I like to go mushroom hunting (for chanterelles and porcini), even though as a teenager I accidently picked and ate Death Cap mushrooms.

WHITE: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JAMIE: Zinfandel is the wine I seem to open the most often of our own, but I also drink a lot of Rhone wines, and wines from the Ventoux.

WHITE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JAMIE: So many people look for the “best” wine. I always ask them “best for what?” Every wine has a place and time for appreciating (unless it just is a wine that really sucks…), and it’s more important for people to figure out what types of wine they like, and why, than what others think is the best. Trust your own palate rather than what a critic or others say.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JAMIE: Thanks for having me, and for appreciating and featuring our wines!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 von Strasser Winery Marcellini Franc

Mission Codename: Five Diamond

Operative: Agent Red

Objective Locate and procure a _Diamond District Cabernet Franc that embodies the best that the unique region has to offer

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: von Strasser Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Marcellini Vineyard Cabernet Franc – Diamond Mountain District

Winemaker: Rudy von Strasser

Backgrounder: Best known for its exceptional Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, von Strasser Winery in Napa Valley’s scenic Calistoga, is a Wine Spies favorite!
Today we are proud to feature their extraordinary 2006 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Franc made from 24 year old vines from the fabled Marcellini Vineyard.

The Diamond Mountain District AVA (American Viticultural Area) sits at the northern most tip of the Napa Valley, in the Mayacamas Mountains. The higher elevation of the region sees more didrect sunlight and less cooling that the rest of the valley, leading to the production of some of the most concentrated and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon in the entire Napa Valley.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark plum skin with perfect clarity through its darkening heart. At the edge of the wine a fine rim of ruby red rings the glass. When the wine settles – after a good swirl – tight clusters of skinny legs take a long time to emerge, before they streak down the glass.

Smell – Layers of aromas rush to greet you, leading off with earthen sage, then bramble, blackberry, pencil shavings, plum and darkest black cherry.

Feel – Light and cool on the initial attack, then softly grippy as integrated tannins very slowly grip in, eventually leading to an around-the-mouth dryness – with a hint of minerality.

Taste – Tart black plum, overripe blackberry, cassis, tart dried cranberry and leather are followed by more subtle flavors of tobacco leaf, soft sweetwoods, minerals, soft dark spice and dusty bramble.

Finish – Very long and clean, with flavors that evolve in your mouth before they gradually tail off. Soft spice and dark minerals at the very end, with a hint of just-burnt candied fig.

Conclusion – For me, Cabernet Franc von Strasser Diamond Mountain = Perfection. Of all red wine varietals, I enjoy beautifully done Cab Franc best of all, and Rudy von Strasser really delivers with his 2006 Marcinelli Vineyard Cabernet Franc*. Elegant, delicious, long on flavors and big aromatics, this wine presents everything in great balance. If you shy away from the sometimes vegital character on Cab Franc, be assured that you won’t find it in this wine. There are high notes of tart fruit, and some sage, but none of the bell pepper that some people shy away from. With its bright acidity,this cab franc is a great companion to most foods. We paired ours with shredded pork tacos and hot salsa. This Franc was a refreshing compliment to a challenging meal. Thank you, Rudy, for another wine… perfectly done!

Mission Report:

While my life is almost completely consumed with wine, I do have other interests. One of them is treasure hunting.

I am constantly receiving intel for my assets around the wine industry – and sometimes that intel has noting to do with wine.

Recently, I received a report that the world famous Diamond District, in the norther tip of the Napa Valley, was so named because a cache of stolen diamonds was buried high up in the Mayacams mountains, among some of the fines Cabernet Sauvignon grapes known to humankind.

This report included clues to the specific whereabouts of the diamonds, valued at an estimated $5 million. My source provided a map, general coordinates and a few old photographs from the 1920’s. I agreed to a 50/50 split and set of to Napa.

Once up in the Mayacamas, a gorgeous vine-covered region at the northern tip of the Napa Valley. Juggling the old photos and my portable GPS, I managed to make my way what was almost certainly the right vicinity.

[beep.boop.beep beep.boop.beep]

An open wine glass? Up here? My Wine Spies PDA is never wrong, and that alert was difficult to believe. Utilizing the PDA’s direction finder, I made my way toward the wine. I made my way down a vineyard row, turned a corner – and witnessed a remarkable sight: A small table with a white tablecloth with a single glass of wine atop it!

I approached the table and saw that its surface was strewn with… with… loose diamonds! My heart raced. Ignoring the note card that sat next to the wine glass, I grabbed a diamond and examined it with my jewelers loop. My heart sank. These were no diamonds. Instead, just fakes.

I stood there for a moment, stunned. Eventually, I snapped out of it and reached for the card. It read, “Agent Red. My apologies for the subterfuge. To make it up to you, I have arranged a special allocation of a very special wine for you. Sincerely, [CENSORED] – von Strasser Winery.”

This note was significant and I felt instantly better. I had been trying to infiltrate the von Strasser Winery for months. Their wines, particularly their Cabernet Sauvignon, is the stuff of legend.

I grabbed up the glass, inhaled deeply, and took a sip. Heavenly.

Then, my phone rang.

“Agent Red. [REDACTED] here, from von Strasser….”

The rest is obvious, dear Operative, for today you have a unique opportunity to sample one of the best Cabs from one of the best regions – by one of Napa Valley’s best wineries.

Diamonds? Who needs diamonds, when you have a wine this good?

Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The gorgeous location of the steeply sloping von Strasser vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Domaine Pierre André Châteauneuf du Pape

Mission Codename: J’aime de Vieilles Vignes

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of an organic and Bio-Dynamic ‘old vine’ Châteauneuf du Pape.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Pierre André

Wine Subject: 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge

Winemaker: Jacqueline Andre

Backgrounder: Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) is among this spy’s favorite Rhone wines. With each wine being a distinct blend of up to 13 different varietals (usually lead off with Grenache, France’s work-horse grape, with the trend leading to more Syrah and Mourvedre based blends). The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape dates back to the 14th century during the time of the dual papacy.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes in two distinct styles, the more traditional ’Old World’ (like this one) are dark, rich and spicy with firm tannins that lend these wines to cellaring; and the more contemporary fruit-forward style more reminiscent of New World wines. Today’s selection is made from very old vines, some as old as 130 years, and is 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 2% Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise, Picpoul and Vaccarese in its encépagement.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple with garnet hues in its clear core. Garnet and ruby red along the edges and when swirled, clusters of thin legs of varying speeds ring the glass.

Smell – Rich and bold with dark fruit, specifically ripe boysenberry, blackberry and raspberry are integrated with brambly herbal aromas, smokey oak, spice, subtle anise and black tea notes.

Feel – This full-bodied dry wine has highly textured firm tannins and minerality, indicative of its old vines. Mouth-coating with lively acidity and a solid spiciness on the tip of the tongue (that softens after an hour of opening) but easy though the mid-palate.

Taste – Generous black and red fruit but presented in a classic and balanced old-world manner with great spice and herbal notes. Add some smokiness, a touch of oak, dusty minerality, black tea and other complex flavors and you’re just scratching the surface of this big and powerful wine.

Finish – Extremely long with the ripe dark fruit fading leaving behind the textured tannins and minerality that dries the palate and begs for another sip.

Conclusion – There is just something special about old vine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and today’s selection from Domaine Pierre André is no exception. Rich and powerful with texture tannins, spice and minerality. An array of complex aromas and flavors. Extremely long in the finish. If your a fan of this very special wines then this is a must add to your cellar. Enjoy now with a good hour or more of decanting, or cellar for ten years or more.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Domaine Pierre André Châteauneuf-du-Pape Red 2005

WINE EDUCATION: Working in the vines and the cellar with my father.

WINE JOB BRIEF: I do all vines work with my team, the wine making and also the whole vineyard planning.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: The respect of grapes, of wine, of Terroir expression. And that is why I like to work softly and naturally as much as possible while the wine making.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1990

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW_

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Jacqueline Andre. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JACQUELINE: Hello, thanks to you. I am glad you to show my wine today.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine? Est

JACQUELINE: I have been in the wine universe since my childhood and it is a passion that has been passed from generation to generation.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JACQUELINE: My father.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

JACQUELINE: Mainly, for myself, for the simple pleasure to make wine. Being a woman, for each vintage, it.s like if I had a new child. And also, when I make wine, I know people are going to enjoy it, and I hope I am going to make people happy: this is a great gift.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JACQUELINE: Its a beautiful millesime that Nature gave us. We had a very low yield and so a natural concentration in this wine. It is very well balanced, complex, rich and dense. Just great.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today.s wine?

JACQUELINE: I like drink it with a good cote de boeuf or a beautiful cheese plate.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Châteauneuf-du-Pape so special?

JACQUELINE: It is the very successful wedding of the Cépage GRENACHE with the Châteauneuf du pape TERROIR.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JACQUELINE: We are actually giving the last caring work to our vines before véraison (grapes are becoming reddish). That will coming soon.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JACQUELINE: I would recommend to people to discover wines with their own feeling and to enjoy wines with their personal pleasures. They should enjoy wines by themselves and not following marketing laws.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JACQUELINE: I would say I am deeply satisfied by my work in harmony with nature (bio-dynamic and organic culture). Our vines are around sixty/seventy years old and some of them are one hundred forty years old! And I love spend time to accompany them.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JACQUELINE: Thanks to you ! I wish you a nice tasting and some good moments shared.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Domaine Pierre André in Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Firesteed Cellars Winery Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Virtual No More

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate rumors of Firesteed Cellars Winery and their lovely Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Firesteed Cellars Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Bryan Croft

Backgrounder:

Home to nearly two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries, the Willamette Valley, just south of Portland and along the Willamette River is well known for Pinot Noir and other Burgundian varietals. Its deep and fertile volcanic soil, cooler climate most directly effect viticulture. Most of the vineyards in this area are planted in the valley’s and hillsides along the river. The climate is cool and wet during the winter and generally warm and dry during the summer. The region boasts six sub-appellations and is nearly perfect for cool weather varietals.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy in color with ruby streaks through its clear core. Along the edges, the color remains burgundy with garnet hues and when swirled, slow thin legs descent to the wine’s slightly springy surface.

Smell – Medium in intensity with bright aromas of red fruit including raspberry, red cherry and strawberry linked together with a touch of spice, soft vanilla oak and a subtle dusty earth component.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this medium-bodied wine has soft and ripe tannins with bright but balanced acidity.

Taste – Soft red fruit with the cherry, raspberry and strawberry found on the nose. Almost restrained, light and fresh. A touch of soft spice and pepper, vanilla toasted oak and hints of dusty earthy minerals.

Finish – Medium in length with the ripe and pretty fruit fading gently with hints of vanilla oak and spice lingering just a bit longer.

Conclusion – The 2006 Firesteed Cellars Winery Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is a lighter and fresher take on Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and is perfect for day-time enjoyment. Not overly complex, but with fresh red fruit, spice and vanilla oak from start to finish this wine is very approachable and quite enjoyable and food friendly. We paired this wine with mild poblano chile rellenos stuffed with chicken and cheese along with a roasted corn and black bean salsa.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Bryan Croft

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis/ BA Economics, 1992. The School of Hard Knocks 1992 to present.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Thirteen vintages with Firesteed Cellars in the heart of Oregon’s, Willamette Valley.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balance through blending. In vino veritas.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: from my 5 year old son, recently, ”I’m not like everyone, but no one is like everyone.” ~J.T. Croft

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Firesteed first commercial release, 1992, Oregon Pinot Noir. 2000 Oregon Pinot with Bryan at the helm.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Bryan. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Williamette Valley Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BRYAN CROFT: Thank you for inviting me Agent Red, you’re not wearing a wire are you?

RED: Of course, I am! Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BRYAN: No, my grandfather became a California winemaker after prohibition (possibly before) and that’s all the inspiration I needed!

RED: Our intel suggests that he was making wine before. What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER Ooooo, good question! 1984 Robert Stemmler Pinot Noir.

RED: Interesting that you should mention Stemmler! Keep an eye on our site, next week, and you’ll know why. Who do you make wine for?

BRYAN: I make wine for the people.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BRYAN: This wine is the highest quality blend of the 2006 harvest from our Estate vineyards and select growers throughout the Willamette Valley.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER:Bistecca Balsamico. Grass fed, free ranging beef from Real Farmers.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Willamette Valley so special?

BRYAN: The climate.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BRYAN: Bottling wines from the beautiful 2009 vintage and planning/preparations for the upcoming harvest.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BRYAN: From the south (unless you live in Washington).

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

WINEMAKER:Yes! Our Riesling, Rose of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay…

RED: Don’t worry, our Operatives will find those – right here – soon enough! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the physical Firesteed Cellars Winery in Oregon can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Sausal Winery Sangiovese

Mission Codename: Tuscany, California

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Sausal Winery and secure their 2007 Sangiovese for our Operatives around the world

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Sausal Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Sausal Family Winery Sangiovese

Winemaker: Dave Demostene

Backgrounder: Our Operatives have been eagerly awaiting our return to Sausal, and today we have procured a limited allocation of their fantastic 2007 Dry Creeek Valley Sangiovese, a wine that delivers a fantastic drinking experience – especially for its low price.

Varietal Backgrounder: The most widely planted grape in all of Italy, Sangiovese is used in everything from blended inexpensive table wines like Chianti, to the finest Super Tuscans. Italian immigrants introduced this varietal to the U.S. in the 1800’s. First plantings of this grape in the Sonoma County region were legendary and today, some of the most exciting California Sangiovese are found there. For today’s wine, Agent Red received a secret dispatch from most trusted confidential informants. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes on this great wine, followed by his mission report, to learn more about today’s old-world-in-California wine
Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deeply dark red, with black cherry hues with clarity through its darkening heart. At the edges of the wine, a band of ruby rings the glass. On swirling, the wine leaves behind skinny, wine-stained legs that start high on the glass.

Smell – Leads with smoky black cherry, softly burnt plum, burnt sugar, oak, crushed dried violets, clove and a hint of tomato stem.

Feel – Soft and round at the very tip of the tongue, then the wine gradually reveals fine tannins as a soft dryness spreads around the entire palate. Eventually, the palate is left with an overall mineral dryness that puckers the lips and drys the tongue and cheeks.

Taste – Sweet and tart at the same time, the wine leads with smoked cherry, dried red flower petals, dusky blackberry, black tea, young strawberry, subtle dark mixed spice and minerals.

Finish – This wine starts sweet and then goes tart and smoky as the soft tannins gradually dry the mouth as minerals and dark spice support the long and gradual tailing off of flavors.

Conclusion – Once again, Sausal impresses us – deeply – with the fantastic value of their wonderfully delicious wines. We were lucky to have featured their Zinfandels, earlier this year, and our Operatives purchased the wines in record numbers. When I tasted today’s 2007 Sangiovese, I knew that I needed to procure as many cases as possible. This wine packs in a ton of flavor, with bold fruit that shines through with additional flavors of spice, dried flowers and black tea. Pair this wine with anything bold or hearty. A grilled steak, spicy pasta or pizza would all be easy matches with this wonderful wine. If you love great Sangiovese, this budget-minded wine delivers big!
Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Dave Demostene

WINE EDUCATION: After graduating from Cal Poly and completing the wine enology program at Davis, I worked for 17 years with my father who was a winemaker

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Sausal Winery, Winemaker since 1973

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: The less you do to the wine the better

WINEMAKER QUOTE: It takes good grapes to make good wine

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1974

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Dave. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DAVE: You’re welcome!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DAVE: I grew up in the wine business, watching and helping my father make wine… this was way before it was popular. It was just our way of life then: Growing grapes and making wine.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

DAVE: I learned by watching my father and in those days if someone made a good wine you’d ask them how they made it and they would tell you. It was a small industry then and everyone shared what they did or would be happy to help you out.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

DAVE: I try to get away from the heavy fruit and high alcohol wines. I like a more balanced wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DAVE: My Dad

RED: How long have you been making wine?

DAVE: I’ve been making wine all my life. I started working in the winery when I was 14 years old, after school and on weekends. I did everything: Shoveling pumice, pumping over, and racking wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

DAVE: I make wine that I like and our customers seem to like that too.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

DAVE: The soil and micro climate make this a good area. We have well drained soil, warm days with cool nights and a breeze that blows through the valley. Perfect growing conditions.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

DAVE: Get your basics at school, but then find a winery that makes wine you like to get your apprenticeship from. Work a harvest there to learn how its done.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DAVE: This is a busy time at the winery. The vines are growing so we are watching and tending to them. We are bottling wines that are ready, and topping the barrels of wines that are still maturing.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

DAVE: Sangiovese is a medium bodied Italian varietal. We planted these 5 acres over 20 years ago on the lower end of the Sausal Ranch. The soil there has great drainage and Sangiovese likes that. The vines were trained on a quadrilateral cordon to increase their sun exposure and help control the vigor of the vine. This allows us to harvest the grapes about mid season at 24 brix with bright fruit. I age this wine in a combination of French and American oak, but mostly neutral barrels. Sangiovese is a delicate wine and I don’t want it to be over powered by oak. The result is lively red wine with bright red fruit and a hint of toasted sweet spice.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DAVE: Our Sangiovese pairs wonderfully with pastas, pizza and grilled meats, as well as fruit and cheeses. Great for summer dinners. It also pairs well with Thanksgiving dinner.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

DAVE: I like to hunt. Mostly pig, deer and elk

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

DAVE: You can’t go wrong with any Sausal Family wine!

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

DAVE: Our wines are ready to drink when they are released and are made to be enjoyed with food.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

DAVE: Sausal Century Vines Zinfandel. That wine is made from vines that are over 130 years old. It’s soft and elegant. A perfect afternoon sipping wine. For a more value-minded wine, definitely today’s Sausal Sangiovese.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

DAVE: Thank you very much, and I hope you enjoy our wine.
Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Sausal winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Mumm Napa Valley Chardonnay

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Mission Codename: Gems Don’t Sparkle?

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Mumm Napa Valley’s non-sparkling wines.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mumm Napa Valley

Wine Subject: 2007 Chardonnay

Winemaker: Ludovic Dervin

Backgrounder: Chardonnay is arguably the greatest of all white grape varietals, showing its influence in the legendary sparkling wines of Champagne, the great whites of Burgundy and of course its expression as ’the’ white wine of California. Chardonnay represents over 50% of the planted white grapes in California with nearly 100,000 acres planted. With such a great number of wines made from this grape, it stands to reason that finding wines of immense quality would be hard, but look no further. Today’s selection form Mumm Napa Valley is not your overly oaked and buttered wine found in so many lackluster California Chardonnays and instead shows tremendous balance and elegance and is almost reminiscent of some of the fine whites of Burgunday.
Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Pale golden yellow with straw yellow highlights though its bright clear core. When swirled, slow thin legs are spaced widely around the glass.

Smell – Bright and fresh with classic aromas of green and citrus fruit but also a distinct fresh and dried apricot component and a touch of tropical fruit. Soft and sweet spice, white flowers, minerality, a touch of creamy oak and hazelnut also emerges as you explore the nose of this wine.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this medium-bodied white has lively and crisp acidity and minerality. Very well balanced creamy mouth feel with good weight.

Taste – Luscious apricot along with green and citrus fruit harmoniously blend with creamy oak and subtle hazelnut flavors. Add to this a white floral and spice component and a touch of minerality.

Finish – Long and persistent with the fresh and dried apricot flavors lingering and supported by this wine’s clean and crisp structure.

Conclusion – The 2007 Mumm Napa Valley Chardonnay is a delicious and elegantly balanced Chardonnay that is nothing like the overly oaked and buttery wines that sadly crowd the white wine aisles at the wine shops. Almost reminiscent of the whites of Burgundy with great crisp and fresh fruit, subtle complexity of spice, minerality and other aromas and flavors – a nearly perfect summer wine that is ready to enjoy tonight!
Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Ludovic Dervin

DATE OF BIRTH: November 1970

PLACE OF BIRTH: Meaux, France

WINE EDUCATION: Diplome National d’Oenologue in Reims, France., Diplome d’Etudes Superieures en Oenologie des Vins de Champagne in Reims, France.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Wine maker for Mumm Napa

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balanced wines, with power and elegance

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Mainly blends, with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Creating a new wine with Musician Carlos Santana, to benefit underprivileged children, called SANTANA RESERVE.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Sparkling wines are not wines to keep for special occasions, but wines which will make any occasion special!”

We were unable to catch up with Ludovic for an updated interview so, here for your reading pleasure is a previous interview, in which he mentions a different wine than the one we are showing today:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Ludovic. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Chardonnay today. It is really a pleasure to drink your fantastic still wins as well. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

LUDOVIC: Bonjour agent red, and many thanks for showcasing our great Chardonnay today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

LUDOVIC: I think it all started playing hide and seek in the Champagne vineyards. I was always curious about the life cycle of grapes to wine as a kid, and all the culture surrounding it. I don’t think it is really one specific bottle of wine or wine experience that lead me to embrace winemaking as a professional career, but rather the sum of many small experiences growing up in the vineyards of Champagne. Winemaking has all the ingredients that I enjoy in life. A perfect mix of cultural traditions and modern science, interactions with our environment and people. Grape vines also tend to grow in some of the most beautiful regions of the world, such as our Napa valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

LUDOVIC: I studied winemaking science and craftsmanship mainly in Champagne in my early days, but I also traveled and made wines in the new world and old world of winemaking. California, Greece, South Africa, France.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

LUDOVIC: I like to craft wines which are balanced, fruit forward and food friendly. I like wines with a crisp and refreshing acidity, with depth, power and elegance. The fruit forwardness, freshness and elegance are achieved through meticulous farming and gentle handling of the fruit to avoid excessive bruising of the berries. I think it is important to let the fruit express itself through minimum winemaking intervention, but it is the daily attention to details which separate good wines to world class excellence.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

LUDOVIC: Again, it is more a combination of all that I encountered through my life that influences my winemaking style today, rather than one single event or person. I am not trying to duplicate or emulate somebody else’s style or personality, but rather look for my own. So I only look at my past encounters as a source of inspiration to build upon. I was lucky enough to work with some great mentors through my career and it is hard to single out any one of them. If I had to pick one person each for Still wines and Sparkling wines who significantly influence how I approach winemaking today I would say Bob Cabral from Williams Selyem and Daniel Thibault from Champagne Charles and Piper Heidsieck.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

LUDOVIC: My first winemaking job was in 1990 working as one of the harvest interns at Champagne GH Mumm in France.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

LUDOVIC: I always try to keep the consumer in mind for each different wine I make. My ultimate goal is to make wines that people want. But every-once in a while I like to make small batches just to experiment for myself.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

LUDOVIC: Napa Valley is a truly unique vine growing and winemaking region in the world. It offers a great diversity of soils and elevation within a small area, giving birth to a patchwork of unique terroirs. The proximity of the Pacific Ocean brings a lot of cool air, especially at night, to help preserve natural acidity and to allow for a slow and steady ripening season, without too much rain. Last but not least, what makes this region special is a pool of talented, creative and hard working individuals with eager to succeed. Napa Valley has experienced a growth pace in the wine industry in the past 30 year with no comparison anywhere else in the world, and I think it is thanks to all these ingredients.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

LUDOVIC: I think to be a good winemaker; you need to have a good sense of observation, and be prepared for a lot of long and sleepless nights during harvest.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

LUDOVIC: Just attended a very interesting technical conference in Australia on enology, vineyards and climate change. Now we’re preparing for harvest, as we are expecting to start in the next couple of weeks.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

LUDOVIC: We take special care in making our still wines and the 2007 Chardonnay is no exception. We chose vineyards in the Carneros district of Napa Valley because we love how the micro-climates in this region establish such even ripening. The cool breezes from San Pablo Bay retain crisp acidity while warm, dry daytime temperatures develop characteristic apple, pear and tropical notes. We fermented 35% in new French oak barrels for 10 months and the remainder in stainless steel to create a balanced blend of lush texture and a crisp, bright finish.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

LUDOVIC: I don’t have TV at home.

RED: Nor do I! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

LUDOVIC: I am not an everyday kind of person. I believe in diversity and complexity, so my everyday wine somewhat changes everyday. But I tend to drink a lot of our DVX tête de cuvee sparkling wine, and a lot of Pinot Noir still wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

LUDOVIC: Very simply actually. We try to make different wines with very different styles and personality at Mumm Napa, so each person can find a wine they like. We all are different people and through our various life experiences, we tend to enjoy different flavors and textures. The best way to enjoy wine for me is with good food and good company. When you approach wine that way, you can really enjoy diversity. I tend to craft wines with crisp and refreshing acidity, because they pair better with food, and tend to age better. The most important thing to keep in mind when you taste wine is your personal integrity and palate. Think for yourself and don’t try to like a wine just because someone else gave it a good score or because it is expensive. Just experience and have fun. Most important with sparkling wines, get out of the habit to open them only for special occasions. They are extremely food friendly, and their festive spirit will enhance the atmosphere in a way that will make every occasion special.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

LUDOVIC: In the bubbly form, I am a big fan of Don Ruinart Champagne. A magnum of their Blanc de Blanc would work for me.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

LUDOVIC: Besides winemaking, what is the most important thing in your life; My family.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

LUDOVIC:Always a pleasure to share good time with good friends. Thanks a lot for your support and best wishes for the coming season!
Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mumm Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.