2006 Ravenswood Winery Bedrock Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: A Cab in the land of Zin

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Ravenswood, well known for exceptional Zinfandel, and acquire an exclusive allocation of a delicious single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ravenswood Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Bedrock Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Joel Peterson

Backgrounder: The historic Bedrock Vineyard located in the Sonoma Valley dates back to 1855 when the first grapes were planted here by Generals William “Tecumseh” Sherman and General “Fightin’ Joe” Hooker. Just over 150 acres, the vineyard has some of the best soil and climates for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Sonoma Valley AVA is one of the oldest wine growing regions in California with the first vines being planted in the early 1800s. The AVA is located along California Route 12 and its eastern boundary are the southern end of the Mayacamas mountains. The unique micro-climate with less rainfall and fog than other parts of the region along with its unique soil provides ideal growing conditions for Zinfandel and especially Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and dark garnet in color with a barely clear and intensely dark garnet heart. Along the edges the color remains thick with subtle violet hues and when swirled, clusters of slow thin colored legs descend to the wine below.

Smell – Rich and classic Cabernet aromas including blackberry, red currant and plum are layered with smoky oak and healthy spice component. A touch of black licorice, complex dark minerals and subtle herbs also emerges.

Feel – This full bodied and dry, wine is smooth and rich, with expansive but very well developed tannins, balanced acidity and a touch of dark minerality creates an almost chewy quality.

Taste – Bold but not overpowering, with rich fruit forward flavors of blackberry, plum and red currant that are broad on the palate with great complex spice, notes of smoky oak, a touch of black licorice and a subtle balsamic and mocha character.

Finish – Long and pleasant fruit fades gently as the well developed fine structure holds on for several minutes.

Conclusion – The 2006 Ravenswood Winery Bedrock Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious, bold and expansive Cab that is also quite approachable with great finesse and elegance too. Great dark fruit and spice aromas, exceptional mouth feel, generous complex fruit on the palate and a rich complete finish. What else would you want in a great Cab? We kept it simple and paired this delicious wine with grilled burgers with all the fixings.

Mission Report:

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: JOEL PETERSON

DATE OF BIRTH: APRIL 1947

PLACE OF BIRTH: Born in Oakland, California. Fifth generation Californian.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: ZINFANDEL

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Style, history, quality, character – California wine has it all.”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Joel. We are thrilled to be showing your very exclusive Chauvet Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JOEL: Happy to answer questions, particularly when they are about my favorite subject, wine. I am also thrilled that you are showing my wine today. Direct experience is one of the best ways that we have of developing fans for Ravenswood wines.

RED: I’m sure that our Operatives will respond well to today’s offer. Your Chauvet Zinfandel is excellent! Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JOEL: My father taught me to taste when I was fairly young. Many young men play baseball or hunt with their fathers (we did those things as well), but what was unusual was that I learned to taste wine and as a result got an olfactory training that is fairly rare. The single wine that change my vision of wine was a 1957 Chateau Fortia. I was about 20 years old and had developed incredibly interesting and complex perfume and flavors making is one of the most memorable wines that I had tasted up to that date.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JOEL: I spent the years from 1973 until 1977 with Joseph Swan learning the nuts and bolts of winemaking. Joe was good friends with Andre Tchelistcheff and used him as a consultant, so I was able to learn in a very hands on way from the best in the business.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JOEL: Wines should reflect the flavors of the places that they were grown. Wine should taste like fruit, not oak. Wine should be balanced, rich and complex and interesting. The best wines are the ones that develop well with age. To that end we attempt to let each vineyard express it’s optimal character by using winemaking techniques and careful attention to detail that dwells on each vineyards particular strengths. Our mantra is “no wimpy wines”, meaning that we want each wine we have to exhibit strength of character, not merely power.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JOEL: There are a whole series of wines that have influenced my winemaking style. Most of them have been European form places like Bordeaux, the Rhone and northern Italy. These memorable wines have a certain balance of fruit, density, acid and tannin that I find desirable in a wine.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JOEL: 35 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JOEL: I make the wine that best expresses the vineyard, the vintage is balanced and tastes good. As a result ,it is fair to say that, Ravenswood makes wine for me, wine reviewers and wine lovers everywhere.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Sonoma Valley so special?

JOEL: The Sonoma Valley is, from a historical perspective, one of the first important grape growing regions in California. It was chosen because it has all the elements that create excellent wines. The soils, for the most part, are volcanic. In the case of Old Hill, they are called Tuscan Red Hill soils. These soils are ideal for dry farming vineyards. The other primary characteristic is that it has a maritime influence which creates a significant diurnal variation; that is warm days and cool nights. This allows for longer maturation resulting in more intense and fresher fruit flavors in the wine.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JOEL: Learn your craft well, be patient and love what you do. It is not “just a job”.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JOEL: Much of what we’re doing these days is happening in the vineyard. It has been a very cool spring with lots of moisture and, as a consequence, we have been late getting in the vineyard with the disc to turn the grass under. Flowering is just beginning to occur – about 2 weeks late. We will soon be suckering the excess growth on the vines to allow more light into the canopy which will ultimately give us darker and more flavorful grapes at the end of the season. At the winery we are racking the red wines we made last year, making adjustments in the quantity of new oak in each blend, and beginning to work on trial blends.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JOEL: Bedrock Vineyard is a very historic vineyard in Sonoma Valley. Originally planted by Gen Joseph Hooker in 1855 and replanted by George Hearst, who was William Randolph Hearst’s father, after Phylloxera in 1888 to a Zinfandel Field Blend. As it turns out, this site is also one of the best sites in Sonoma for Cabernet Sauvignon. This section of Sonoma Valley is well known for good Cabernet Sauvignon. Another well known producer, B.R. Cohn, is within half a mile. The Bedrock Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and its supplementing Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines were planted nearly 20 years ago The wine was made using classic Bordeaux techniques – closed top fermenters, pumped over gently to avoid extracting excess tannin, and aged in French oak – 60% of which is new – for 18 months. The wine has a beautifully heady Cabernet Sauvignon perfume with great density and structure. The wine will develop for at least another 15 – 20 years. This Cabernet is a very stylish, well-polished, beautifully structured, delicious California Sauvignon.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JOEL: Today’s wine loves meat. Perhaps the most simple but delicious pairing is either simply grilled lamb chops or a great New York strip steak. The richness and sweetness of the meat mingles beautifully with the intensity and brilliant flavor profile of this Sonoma Valley wine.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JOEL: I delivered my son, Morgan, at home.

RED: Both of my mini-agents were, as well! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JOEL: Sherman and Hookers Shebang. A one liter jug wine from California. Beyond that, I taste so much, my answer should be whatever wine is in front of me.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JOEL: With a sense of exploration, joy and with food and company.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

JOEL: I would never make such a choice. Wine is about diversity and complexity. One wine would be boring. This is not a monotheistic endeavor.

RED: Excellent answer! What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

JOEL: Do you have the best, most interesting, most diverse, most challenging, most satisfying job in the universe? YES

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JOEL: Every winery needs fans. Without them there is only a singular void. So, thank you to you and all those who make wine part of their daily experience.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Bedrock Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Trentadue Winery La Storia Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: History Repeats Itself

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Trentadue Winery in Sonoma County’s pristine Alexander Valley, secure another exclusive wine for our Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trentadue Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 La Storia Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder: Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Bordeaux Varietals. Read Agent Red’s detailed tasting notes and winemaker interview, below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Inky dark purple, with a slightly opaque heart. At its edges, a thick band of pure lavender rings the glass. After swirling the wine, thick, wine-stained legs crawl slowly down the glass.

Smell – Lush and large, with sweet blackberry, blueberry, plum and cassis – with secondary aromatic cedar, dark strawberry and black pepper.

Feel – Balanced on entry, riding a fine line between soft and round and softly dry. The wine hovers easily between these two states for several moments, before a more serious dryness spreads slowly backward from the tip of the tongue.

Taste – Intense dark blackberry and blueberry give way to dark cherry, plum, black pepper and an intriguing dark nectarine.

Finish – Mouthwatering and delicious, with dark flavors that go on and on for a very long time. Eventually, these flavors end with a soft blackberry and black pepper.

Overall – Lovers of Petite Sirah, rejoice! This is a big, delicious and wonderfully balanced treat. Too many California Petites are brash examples that knock you around with huge oak and flavors that are out of control. Today’s wine holds everything in perfect harmony, with just the right amount of intensity – and softness. Flavors are authentic and delicious, and the aromas practically leap from the glass. The more you swirl, the better the fruit aromas – and the softer the feel becomes. Winemaker, Miro Tcholakov, is a master of Sonoma County Petite Sirah and we continue to be huge fans of all of his delicious wines.

Mission Report:

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: 02.04.1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country… There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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AGENT RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MIRO: Trentadue has been known as a great Petite producer for the last 40 years. The La Storia wines are our reserve wines, our best effort. The grapes are exclusively grown on our Geyserville Estate-from Blocks 402 and 400.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Petite Sirah can be easily used instead of Cabernet in most recipes. Many meat dishes-most obviously stakes will be greatly complimented by the exuberant abundance of tannin, fruit and flavor of the mighty Petite. For the vegetarians try it with spicy eggplant, roasted Portobello, and many Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

WINEMAKER: Geyserville area is in the middle of the Alexander Valley where grape growing dates back more than a century. Some of our blocks are still the original vineyards planted back in 1896. Petite Sirah is planted and mixed in all of those block- a testimony to the importance of that variety back than as well as today. The climate and soils around the banks of the Russian River are perfect for any red varieties-deep, gravely, well drained soils that provide the building blocks for great color and depth in our Petite. The fruit profile is always in the deep dark and red stone fruits with considerable body.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: We are doing a lot of final prep for bottling-fine tuning the blends, racking and blending, fining and filtration. The fun never stops specially during bottling (I’m being sarcastic).

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trentadue Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Maloy O’Neill Vineyards Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Sunshine is Delicious

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Maloy O’Neill, in Paso Robles, and abscond with the world’s only bottles of Shannon O’Neill’s 2004 Windy Hill Cabernet Sauvignon. Procure as many cases as possible for our eager Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maloy O’Neill

Wine Subject: 2004 Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon – Paso Robles

Winemaker: Shannon O’Neill

Backgrounder: Paso Robles has long been established as a wine producing region that give other California regions a run for their money. With a climate and soils that make for perfect growing conditions for grapes, it is no wonder. Winemakers in Paso are a somewhat unique breed, often declaring themselves to be the renegades of Cali wine. A meeting with Shannon O’Neill, winemaker and owner of Maloy O’Neill affirms this sentiment. A warm, excited and deeply passionate man, Shannon makes wines that reflect his personality. Join Agent Red as he visits Shannon – and returns with a cache of Shannon’s 2004 Windy Hill Cab for our O’Neill-loving Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Forboding and serious, with deep inky hues of the darkest garnet I have ever seen. Legs take a very long time to emerge after swirling. When they do, they take a long time to run down the glass, leaving chubby wine-stained trails as they go.

Smell – Blackest cherry and dried falls leaves leap instantly from the glass. Heady blackberry, wild berry bramble, dried meats, dark plum, leather and dark spice add to the overall complexity of the nose.

Feel – Instantly dry and grippy on entry and then, curiously, wet and light across the mid-palate. Then, the wine turns weighty at the edges, evolving and changing, revealing a fast-spreading grippiness that moves outward to the corners of the mouth.

Taste – Big and bold with big, concentrated flavors of dark chocolate-covered black cherries, blackberry and plum preserves, cassis and subtle dried meats.

Finish – Bold and extra long, with dark fruit and black, flinty minerals that linger long after the fruits dwindle.

Conclusion – We tend to showcase a great many wines from Sonoma and Napa, so when I get my hands on a Maloy O’Neill wine, from Paso Robles, it is always a unique experience. Shannon O’Neill is considered one of the pioneers of the region. He earned this distinction by being among the first winemakers to grow fruit and make wines there. Shannon’s wines are always a special treat, delivering a boldness of character that is pure Paso. Today’s wine was a real score for us, as it was squirreled away in Shannon’s private cellar. After some clever spy work, I was able to secure a few cases for our deserving Operative’s. This wine is big, delicious, deeply aromatic and very dynamic on the palate. Enjoy now or hold a bottle or two for a couple of years – if you can wait that long!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Shannon O’Neill

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Fermentation Science, U.C.Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 1982-Present, Vice President, Vineyard Operations, O’Neill Vineyards, Paso Robles, CA; 1999-Present, President, Winemaker, Maloy O’Neill Vineyards, Paso Robles, CA; 2005- Present, Wine Production Consultant For Various Start Up Wineries on the Central Coast of California.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Making great wine while developing one on one customer relationships.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “I love making big, extracted, intense varietal character wines, and lots of them”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1999

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Shannon. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Enzo today. We featured your ‘04 Enzo, last year and our Operatives loved it. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SHANNON: The pleasure is all mine!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SHANNON: I think my horticulture class in the 5th grade, started my love for growing things. That developed into growing grapes when my family purchased 180 acres in Paso Robles in 1980. My sister convinced me to go to UC Davis because they needed winemakers for the new developing wine industry in the early 1980’s. She was in her 2nd year as a Viticulture major and I had just graduated high school and had plans to take over my father’s medical practice. My efforts to get into a premed university were daunting despite my great GPA and SAT scores. My sister suggested I sign up for the Fermentation Science Program at Davis which was the exact same first two years curriculum as a premed Biology major consisting of basically, lots of math and science. She told after your second year, transferring to a pre-med school would be very easy at that point. She was right, because there were only 13 students that signed up that year, and I slid right in. The only thing she was wrong about was, once I found out how cool being a winemaker was, med school was out!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SHANNON: Making Cabernet Sauvignon is the Holy Grail of winemaking. Cabernet has always been the backbone of my winemaking style and the history of my wines. Thank god, O’Neill Vineyards has been a never ending supply of high quality fruit for this endeavor!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SHANNON: Making Cabernet Sauvignon is the Holy Grail of winemaking. Cabernet has always been the backbone of my winemaking style and the history of my wines. Our two estate vineyards has always been a source of high quality fruit for this endeavor!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

SHANNON: I am the winemaker for our two estate brands, Maloy O’Neill Vineyards and O’Neill Vineyards and have been a production consultant and have done custom crush work for many small start up wineries on the central coast.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

SHANNON: The Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon is my favorite cab from the 2004 Vintage. When first released, it was sooo huge, that I put it aside to save the best for last. I made seven different Cabs in 2004, and the Hillside was one of the top picks. Big chewy tannins, enormous fruit, and a smooth mid palate, will allow this wine to age for many more years, but is drinking very nice right now. My experimental Hillside is hand manicured to a meager 1-2 tons per acre, to produce intense varietal character fruit. Nominally filtered, there is some sediment after 5 years in the bottle, but that’s my favorite part. It’s full of dark, chewy, goodness!

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Paso Region so special?

SHANNON:Paso Robles is unique because of its high diurnal temperature flux and great diversity in soil make up, from area to area. In the growing season, it will be in the mid 90’s during the day and in the 50’s at night. This radical temperature flux creates a wonderful sugar/acid balance that allows the vines in Paso Robles to become physiologically mature before harvest lending to the bigger style reds coming out of the area and a big part of our wineries success.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SHANNON: Racking, topping and bottling, will take me right into the 2010 harvest. No rest for the weary!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

SHANNON: I make 36 different wines a year so I have a huge portfolio of many different styles and varietals to choose from. There is literally something for everyone. But if your one of those wine drinkers that like big, huge, extracted, intense varietal character reds, than you’re going to love my wines, because that is what I specialize in, and that is where my passion is! The Fremere is delicate dinner wine, that goes good with most foods, but I have many wines that are quaffing wines only, that can be served as the meal, so whatever style you like, go through the list on our website, and I promise you will find what you’re looking for!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

SHANNON: I would just like to thank all of you for your unending support, and also the wine spies who do a wonderful job at picking wines that are unique and of interest to people who are looking for something more than what is available on the supermarket shelves. The Spies have consistently choose wines from all the different wineries they feature, that are worth checking out, and they also expose wineries who do not have worldwide distribution to and audience that might never get a chance to try new and exciting wines from small mom and pop wineries from many different regions! I welcome all of you to come to Paso Robles to see all the great things going on here, and if you do! Please visit us and say hello. For all of those who take me up on my offer, just mention your from the Spies and we will give you an extra discount on all wines and waive your tasting fees! Thank you again, and hope to see you soon!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

SHANNON: The pleasure is all mine. Thank you Wine Spies for introducing so many new wine fans to the Maloy O’Neill portfolio. Keep the good work!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maloy O’Neill Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Maison Bouachon ‘La Tiare du Pape’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Mission Codename: Crowning Glory

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of Mason Bouaachon’s newest Châteauneuf-du-Pape for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maison Bouachon

Wine Subject: 2007 La Tiare du Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Winemaker: Christian Abry

Backgrounder: For the last two years, we have been fortunate to have showcased successive vintages of today’s wine. The wines were so well-loved, that we issued an annual Wine Spies Intrigue Award, making last years vintage our Operative’s Choice, Top International Selection. Today, we are proud to bring you the latest vintage, the fantastic Maison Bouachon 2007 La Tiare du Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) is among this spy’s favorite Rhone wines. With each wine being a distinct blend of up to 13 different varietals (usually lead off with Grenache, France’s work-horse grape, with the trend leading to more Syrah and Mourvedre based blends). The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape dates back to the 14th century during the time of the dual papacy.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes in two distinct styles, the more traditional ’Old World’ (like this one) are dark, rich and spicy with firm tannins that lend these wines to cellaring; and the more contemporary fruit-forward style more reminiscent of New World wines.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet with a deepening heart of black cherry color. At the edges, the wine shows off fine ruby hues. When swirled, tall and ultra-skinny legs start high on the glass. To add intrigue, these legs disappear completely, and a second set of plump legs crawl their way down the glass – in a display that I have never witnessed.

Smell – Candied red cherry and raspberry leap from the glass. These are followed by soft spice, strawberry, leather, anise and blueberry tart. After some swirling, additional aromas of red flower petals, cedar and vanilla appear.

Feel – Medium-bodied on initial entry, weighty across the mid-palate and fleshy. After a moment, the wine seems to expand in the mouth as its fullness is felt across the entire palate. A soft dryness begins at the front of the mouth and works its way gradually backward.

Taste – Lush and darkly flavorful, with robust blackberry and smoky plum leading the way. These are accompanied, closely, by black cherry, cassis, supple leather, mineral black spice and soft oak.

Finish – Ultra-long and very flavorful, with all flavors tailing off evenly and smoothly. After a while, flavors dwindle and a soft mineral spice characteristic remains, with subtle hints of dark cherry and plum.

Conclusion – I had the great fortune to taste the past two vintages of this wine. While I loved the 2005 over the 2006, I enjoyed this wine – the 2007 La Tiare du Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape – even more! With a slightly more robust character than past vintages, this wine shows off a more dark and dusky character. The wine is dynamic, from the visual intrigue presented by its unusual legs (see, look, above), to its layers of flavors and aromatics. Not as juicy as the 2005, this wine seems almost like a more bold, serious – and refined – big brother to its younger sibling. If you love great Châteauneuf, this wine is certain to delight your senses.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jean Philippe Trollet

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Wine should exhibit the character of the Terroir of its origin.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jean Philippe. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 ‘La Tiare du Pape’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: I’m very pleased to have our wine featured on The Wine Spies.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: There is a long and rich tradition of winemaking in this region, the legacy influences my winemaking decisions. I try to make the best wine I can while maintaining the tradition and reputation of Chateauneuf du Pape.

RED: Who do you make wine for? For people who enjoy good wine and good food, of course.

WINEMAKER: For people who enjoy good wine and good food, of course.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

WINEMAKER: This wine is made from old vine Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre – three classic Rhone grape varieties. It has rich fruit and notes of spice, herbs, and earthiness. The 2007 season was very kind to Chateauneuf du Pape, the flavors and tannins are very expressive.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: I am thinking of a loin of lamb rubbed with olive oil and crushed garlic, rosemary and thyme then grilled. Okay, now I’m hungry.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Châteauneuf-du-Pape so special?

WINEMAKER: Chateauneuf is a classic wine region with rich history, not only in the history of France and the papacy, but in winemaking. The appellation is close to the Mediterranean Sea, yet with a mountain air influence that creates cool nights. The rocky soils and hilly terrain create stress for the vines that leads to concentrated flavors in the wines.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: Bottling some 2009 wines in anticipation for the harvest this fall.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

WINEMAKER: In France, we always enjoy wine with food, and so I suggest to open this bottle in the course of a meal, while relaxed, in good spirits with good company!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

WINEMAKER: I hope you enjoy this wine. Please visit our winery in Chateauneuf du Pape near the charming town of Avignon. A bientot!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maison Bouachon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Watkins Family Winery Zinfandel/Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Hillside Expressions

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit Watkins Family Winery and acquire their delicious Zinfandel/Petite Sirah blend.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Watkins Family Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Zinfandel/Petite Sirah (Taylor Mountain & Fall Creek Vineyards)

Winemaker: Randall Watkins

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Sonoma County Zinfandels are among our favorites, and for good reason; So many great California wines are made in this region.

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and inky purple and almost black through its opaque core. Along the edges, the color lightens to a dark purple and when swirled, razor thin legs show this wine’s deep color. Some sediment is present in this wine.

Smell – Bold and rich with aromas of jammy blackberry, boysenberry, and other dark fruit. Adding complexity are notes of licorice, oak, spice, and toasty herbal bramble.

Feel – Plush and soft, this smooth full-bodied wine is dry and expansive, and almost chewy on the palate. Fine soft but grippy tannins, balanced acidity and a touch of dark minerality linger into the finish.

Taste – Fruit forward with jammy blackberry, boysenberry, plum and a touch of blueberry are layered with dark and sweet and pepper spices, a hint of licorice and herbal bramble and oak.

Finish – Medium in length with this wine’s jammy fruit fading softly as this wine’s soft and well developed tannins linger just a bit longer.

Conclusion – The 2005 Watkins Family Winery Zinfandel/Petite Sirah is a delicious and plush Zin/Petite Sirah blend that doesn’t overpower your palate with coarse tannins. Rich and soft, pleasant and approachable and easy to pair with anything you throw on the grill.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Randall Watkins

WINE EDUCATION: Masters in Enology, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaking for past 16 years in Sonoma, Napa and Chile; current owner/winemaker of Watkins Family Winery.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I am committed to crafting limited production wines from the concentrated fruit of hillside vineyards. I believe that vineyard location, soil composition, climate and slope are key factors in creating wines of extraordinary quality and distinction. My goal is to produce wines of great balance with regard to ripe fruit, quality tannin, and natural acidity.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: All of my winemaking efforts go toward producing wines that are rich and intensely flavored, reflecting both their origin in the vineyard, and the balance and elegance of small lot winemaking.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1994, 1999 as head winemaker

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Randall. We are thrilled to be showing your wine today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RANDALL WATKINS: I am always happy to discuss Zinfandel!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RANDALL: I grew up on a ranch in Sonoma County where we had horses, chickens, rabbits and 1 acre of Zinfandel and Chardonnay. My father didn’t sell the grapes, he was a home winemaker. Each vintage, all of his friends would come over to help hand-harvest the grapes and crank the hand stemmer-crusher. Then they would celebrate the harvest and their friendship with a big picnic, enjoying wine from previous vintages. From the time that I was 10 years old, I helped with the farming and the harvest of my family’s small vineyard. And when I grew older, it was my friends who came over for the harvest parties and many more great memories!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RANDALL: For Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, Dan Goldfield has been influential. I worked under him at Hartford and La Crema and learned about the Burundian methods of cold soaking and open-topped fermentation to help extract color and express the fruit. He was one of the only winemakers who was producing an elegant style of Zinfandel, which is the style in which I make the Bugay Vineyards Zinfandel.
For Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals, I learned a lot working with Álvaro Espinoza, one of Chile’s most talented winemakers. In addition to his experience at Château Margaux, Álvaro is a well-known wine consultant and has his own highly rated label, Antiyal. He taught me the importance of organic farming, picking at perfect ripeness, and achieving a sense of place from the vineyard site.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RANDALL: I make wine for people to enjoy and share. I want the people who try my wine to want to have another glass, and that is why balance is so important to me. Some Zinfandel wines can be overripe and raisiny, sweet but with a burn from high alcohol. I prefer to make a more elegant style which has balanced alcohol and acidity, retaining the freshness of the fruit and the liveliness that makes young Zinfandel such a fun wine to enjoy. And that is why I was awarded Sonoma County Winemaker of the Year for my Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel a few years ago!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RANDALL: Fully developed fruit, complex and delicious. Incredibly pure, both in the fruit flavors and aromas. Smooth and rich with wonderful spice box notes framing the flavors of plum, boysenberry and apricot. This wine displays the pure essence of Sonoma mountainside Zinfandel.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RANDALL: This Zinfandel that pairs well with foods often associated with a fine Cabernet Sauvignon. Grilled New York Steak is an excellent pairing, as well as other grilled meats, vegetables, and Italian cuisine. But my favorite? Zinfandel Braised Beef Short Ribs! (Find the recipe is on FoodNetwork.com)

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Mayacamas region so special?

RANDALL: Bugay Vineyards, where the grapes for my wine come from, is located nearly at the top of the Mayacamas Mountains in between Santa Rosa and Calistoga. The steep rocky volcanic slopes are well drained and create a struggle for the vines which concentrates the color and flavor of the fruit. The vineyard elevation of approximately 1200 ft. places the vines above the valley fog, and above damaging spring frost. The north-south vineyard row alignment allows each side of the vine to enjoy equal sun exposure. Bud break is generally earlier resulting in a longer growing season with greater ‘hang time’ for the fruit. During the hot summer months, the vines receive the benefit of natural air conditioning as cool marine air follows the pressure gradient from the ocean over our vineyards on the south (ocean) side of the Mayacamas Mountains and down into the hotter interior valleys of Napa County and beyond. This temperate climate allows the fruit to mature slowly, evenly and with full physiological ripeness at a lower brix than most wine grape growing locations. In addition to its great location, the vineyard is meticulously farmed by John Bugay, whose talent for landscaping and gardening is reflected in the quality of the grapes and wine.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RANDALL: I wear a lot of hats all year around, but in the springtime, I am doing a lot of blending to prepare wines for bottling in the summer. John Bugay and I sit down together with the different lots (wines produced from grapes from different vineyard blocks, picked and fermented separately), and determine what % of each component makes the best blends. Some components don’t make the cut and are sold to other wineries. After vineyard site and farming practices, a good fermentation and careful blending are the next most important steps in making quality wine.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RANDALL: Have fun with it, feel comfortable having an opinion on what you like and don’t like. Go with your instincts. There is no point in suffering through a wine that you really don’t like just because you have read that it’s supposed to be good. Wine, like art, is subjective. Try new things, new producers, new varietals, wines from different growing areas. Trying different wines is the only way to build your sensory memory and discover your own tastes. Realize that the most important characteristic of a good wine is balance. A wine’s flavor can have many different elements: fruit, tannin, spice, oak, etc. The best wines have all these things in a complex harmony, and no one flavor overshadows the others.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RANDALL: There is no better way to end a day than to relax and share wine, food and conversation with friends!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Watkins Family Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Fess Parker Winery Santa Barbara County Viognier

Mission Codename: Emperer Probus’ Contribution

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Return to Fess Parker Winery and acquire their latest Viognier release

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fess Parker Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Santa Barbara County Viognier

Winemaker: Blair Fox

Backgrounder: A very shy grape that is difficult to grow, Viognier was once an endangered species worldwide. Today, skillful growers and winemakers tend the grapes with great care, closely monitoring their progress and picking at the pinnacle of ripeness. Viognier, when perfectly produced, is a delightful wine that is the perfect alternative to more mainstream white wines like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. For today’s wine we sent Agent Red to Stags’ Leap in Napa Valley, where he discovers their stellar Viognier. Read Agent White’s tasting notes and mission report below to learn why you will love this wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Clear straw yellow with golden yellow streaks through its rich colored core. Springy in its texture and when swirled randomly spaced thing legs descend to the wine below at varying speeds.

Smell – Redolent and rich with aromas of mandarin orange citrus, white peach, and melon with orange blossom and honeysuckle floral notes. A hint of sweet spice, honey and minerality blend with oaky notes as well.

Feel – Rich and creamy with great weight, this full-bodied white is dry and smooth. Its lively acidity and tannins balances against this wine’s creamy and expansive palate. Youthful, and a bit high in alcohol that will integrate as this wine ages.

Taste – Rich and bright flavors of citrus, tropical melon, tart almost ripe tree fruit and pineapple meld with floral notes, sweet spice, mineral notes, honey and oak.

Finish – Fresh, tangy and crisp fruit fades first with this wine’s creamy texture lingering on.

Conclusion – The 2008 Fess Parker Winery Santa Barbara County Viognier is a youthful and fresh wine with great weight, something you’d expect from Viognier. Lovely fruit and floral notes blend with spice and oak. Give this wine some time in the bottle and you’ll be rewarded as this wine will definitely improve with some bottle time. Pair this wine with creamy aged cheese and pate.

Mission Report:

We tried to secure a covert meeting with Fess’ winemaker, Blair Fox, but he proved too elusive for an interview. Okay, he was too busy at the winery. What follows is our recent interview with Bliar, in which he discusses his history, and his Pinot Noir – which we featured earlier this year:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Blair Fox

DATE OF BIRTH: 10/74

PLACE OF BIRTH: Santa Barbara, CA

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Viticulture and Enology, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Enologist for Fess Parker Winery ‘99, Winemaker Sunstone Winery 99-02, Consultant winemaker fess Parker Winery 02, Vintage Winemaker- Haselgrove Winery- McLaren Vale South Australia 03, Associate Winemaker in charge of the Rhone Varietal programs at Fess Parker 03-05, Head Winemaker for Fess Parker Winery 05-present

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I spend a lot of time in the vineyard because I feel that wines are truly made in the vineyard. I try to show the different qualities of the different vineyards and create wines with distinct varietal character.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: I have always been particularly fond of Syrah.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Traveling throughout the Rhone Valley in France and tasting some of the best examples of Syrah and other Rhone varietals the world has to offer.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: I feel privileged to work with some of the best vineyards and fruit in Santa Barbara County.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Blair. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Ashley’s Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BLAIR: Thank you for showing my wine today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BLAIR: My parents were always traveling the globe and bringing home wines to be drunk around the dinner table. I was planning on going to medical school to become a doctor but was lured into the Viticulture and Enology program at UC Davis.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

BLAIR: I really enjoyed the viticulture side of the program, but then fell in love with the enology courses and being able to see the conversion of grapes to a final wine.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

BLAIR: I feel the best wines are made in the vineyard. You have to be diligent with your vineyard practices to grow grapes worthy of making great wine. It is all about fruit quality, canopy management and managing your yields to produce the most exciting wines possible.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BLAIR: I am impressed by all great wines made around the world. I have gained experience making wines in two different hemispheres and like a sponge have absorbed as much knowledge from every winemaker I have ever worked with.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

BLAIR: This will be my 14th vintage.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BLAIR: I make wines to be enjoyed by all. At Fess Parker Winery we specialize in the production of Burgundian and Rhone Varietal wines. I create these wines to be balanced with intense fruit character, rich mouthfeel and beautiful aromatics.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Santa Barbara so special?

BLAIR: Santa Barbara is a very unique region. We have very cool areas such as the Santa Rita Hills, which is the ultimate place to grow high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and we have the more interior Santa Ynez Valley where some of the most exciting Rhone varietals in the world are grown.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BLAIR: We are in the middle of racking and blending a lot of our wines right now. I taste every barrel for quality and defects to make sure only the best wines are produced.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

BLAIR: It is our 2007 Ashley’s Pinot Noir sourced entirely from the cool, Santa Rita Hills AVA in Santa Barbara County. This vineyard was planted over 10 years ago and produced an average of less than 2 tons per acre in 2007. Six different clones of Pinot Noir were hand-picked, hand-sorted, fermented in small tanks, basket pressed and aged in French Oak for sixteen months before being bottled.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BLAIR: Blackened Salmon

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

BLAIR: I am very casual about my approach to wine. I feel wines are best drunk with food, but are also great as an aperitif or after dinner. I feel you should drink what you enjoy regardless of price or region. It is fun to be adventurous with wine and see what else is out there.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

BLAIR: I love Syrah and would choose something like an old Grange from Penfolds or Cote Rotie from the Northern Rhone.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

BLAIR: Thanks!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fess Parker Winery in Santa Barbara’s famous Foxen Canyon can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Amity Vineyards Sunnyside Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Sun Always Shines on the Sunnyside

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate the rumors of a great single vineyard Pinot Noir from Amity Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Amity Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Sunnyside Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Darcy Pendergrass

Backgrounder:

Oregon’s Willamette Valley, just south of Portland and along the Willamette River is well known for Pinot Noir and other Burgundian varietals. Its deep and fertile volcanic soil, cooler climate most directly effect viticulture. Most of the vineyards in this area are planted in the valley’s and hillsides along the river.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Bright ruby red with a clear darker ruby core. Along the edges the color lightens slightly to a redish pink. When swirled, this springy wine leaves clusters of slow fat legs descend to the wine below.

Smell – Pleasant and fresh with bright aromas of red fruit including red cherry, raspberry and strawberry are integrated with notes of sweet exotic spice, smokey herbal notes and a touch of floral violet. Complex earthy and toasted and smokey oak adds to the overall nose of this wine.

Feel – Soft and supple, this smooth dry medium-bodied wine has bright but balanced acidity, medium fine tannins and a touch of spice, all that lingers into the finish.

Taste – Rich and smooth flavors of smokey spiced red cherry and other red fruit are integrated with exotic sweet and hot spice, smokey herbs, floral violets, and a touch of earthiness and oak.

Finish – Medium in length with this wines fresh spice and smokey red fruit lingers softly over a very pleasant balanced structure.

Conclusion – The 2007 Amity Vineyards Sunnyside Pinot Noir is a delicious and fresh lighter bodied Pinot Noir that shows plenty of complexity without sacrificing its approachable and balanced structure. Fresh and light on the nose, great flavors on the palate, and clean on the finish, this wine is perfect for any summer cuisine.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Darcy Pendergrass

WINE EDUCATION: Hands on with a BS in microbiology

WINE JOB BRIEF: As a Native Oregonian I’ve only worked in Oregon and New Zealand

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I always want to be true to the fruit.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Drink good wine with good friends”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Amity Vineyards 1976 for me 2006 by myself.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Darcy. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Sunnyside Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DARCY: Thank you for featuring our delicious wine.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DARCY: Not one specific event just enjoying wine with family and friends sparked my interest.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DARCY: Myron Redford founder and owner of Amity. I love his passion for wine, it has rubbed off on me.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DARCY: You are featuring our 2007 Sunnyside Pinot noir, Sunnyside vineyards is one of my favorite vineyards to work with and this wine shows why. Loads of red fruit, spice, and cedar dominate the nose and follow through the whole wine. Great balance of acid and tannins make this a wine that pairs wonderful with food.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DARCY: Anything with lamb is always a favorite in my house.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Sunnyside Vineyards so special?

DARCY: Sunnyside Vineyards is one of the oldest vineyards in Oregon 40 years this year. The vineyard has been farmed sustainable the whole time which helps make it a very consistent vineyard for single vineyard pinot noir and a component of our reserve Pinot noir when we make it.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DARCY: Things are pretty slow right now, but we will start working on the 2009 Pinot noir blends in the next few weeks so we can bottle before harvest.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

DARCY: Wines is meant to be enjoyed and hopefully we get to share it with friends and family over a great meal.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

DARCY: No, just thanks for taking the time to trying our Sunnyside Pinot noir. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed making it.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of Amity Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Hans Fahden Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Cuvee

Mission Codename: Peaks of Greatness

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friends at Hans Fahden and acquire their newly released 2007 Mountain Cuvée

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Hans Fahden

Wine Subject: 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Cuvée

Winemaker: Israel Montanez

Backgrounder: Hans Fahden wines continue to be among the most popular with our Operatives. Today we are pleased to bring you Hans Fahden’s newest Cabernet Sauvignon, their exceptional 2007 Mountain Cuvée, made from the winery’s finest vineyard sources.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple with garnet hues through its dense but clear core. Along the edges, the color shines deep garnet and when swirled, fast fat legs holds this wine’s color on the side of the glass.

Smell – Bold in intensity with ripe and jammy black-fruit specifically blackberry and dark currants meld with sweet exotic spice, notes of vanilla toasted oak and soft earthy aromas.

Feel – Smooth and rich, this full-boded wine is dry with rich but youthful tannins, bright acidity and a touch of spice.

Taste – Youthful and fresh, with jammy flavors of raspberry, blackberry and other dark fruit. Layers of soft toasted vanilla oak blends with pepper and exotic sweet spice. Dark earthy minerality and a touch of dark chocolate adds an approachable complexity.

Finish – The soft textured but youthful tannins grips the palate and provides a sturdy structure fro the rich and fresh fruit to linger on the palate.

Conclusion – The 2007 Hans Fahden Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Cuvée is a delicious example of why Hans Fahden is always on of our operatives’ favorite wines. Classic rich mountain fruit, a supple but sturdy structure and a long plump finish makes this wine great right now but also gives an indication of its cellar potential.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Israel Montañez

WINE EDUCATION: Napa Valley Junior College – Enology/Winemaking Program
U.C. Davis Extension Courses; Many Wine and Viticulture Seminars; 20 years of hands on experience

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 20 years in the industry. Far Niente, William Hill, Franciscan, and now 5 years at Hans Fahden.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Quality wine is made in the vineyard. I like to pick by taste and need to have ripe flavors. I don’t like to handle wines more than needed. Tannin management starts early. It’s important to work with tannins early so they have time to evolve.
I am all about making rich, well-balanced wines. Ripe fruit is a must. I work hard to extract as much flavor and color without overdoing it.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Let the fruit hang!”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: The Hans Fahden 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon “Mountain Cuvee”.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

ISRAEL: This is the release of our 2007 “Mountain Cuvée” Cabernet Sauvignon. The “Mountain Cuvée” is our flagship wine. It’s a blend of 90% Cabernet and 10% Merlot. Subtle, rich flavors of blackberry, raspberry, currant, mocha,and spice . The tannins are well integrated and the wine has a solid backbone and structure. It’s fine now but should have some nice ageability over the next eight to ten years.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ISRAEL: A nice juicy piece of grilled beef or lamb. It’s classic.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the [REGION] so special?

ISRAEL: The altitude, climate, and rocky, volcanic soil. We have the classic conditions for growing great mountain cab. Lots of sunshine and heat during the day and cool nights. The vineyards are at 800 to 1000 feet altitude. The vines growing in our volcanic soils are low-yielding, producing small berries with deep color and intense tannins.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ISRAEL: I am in the process of getting our 2007 “Narrative” Cabernet ready to bottle. Our best barrels of wine have been reserved for this Cab.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Hans Fahden Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The Goods

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Pedroncelli Winery, where The Wine Spies have absconded with some fantastic QPR wines. This time, retreive their newest Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: John Pedroncelli

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is one of the favorite grape varietals, and for good reason, so many wonderful California wines are made from this varietal. Related to the Italian Primitivo grape and tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski, Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet, with a fine ring of purple at the edge of the glass. When swirled, the wine shows a tight surface. On settling, skinny legs speed down the glass.

Smell – Dark and ripe, with blackberry, raspberry and plum, intermingled with black pepper, soft cedar and a hint of smoky young strawberry.

Feel – Full-bodied, soft and slightly dry, with a gentle mineral spice component that give support to the solid medium tannins.

Taste – Balanced red and black fruit that delivers dark raspberry, blackberry, plum, black cherry and spice. These sit atop follow-on flavors of black pepper, soft oak and mineral-spice.

Finish – Medium long, with lingering blackfruit, pepper, soft oak and a hint of black licorice.

Conclusion – The Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards 2007 Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel is another terrific Zinfandel with a terrific price. With great flavors and aromatics, this wine delivers a single vineyard drinking experience above its price class. Like last years vintage, this wine offers up classic Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel with great character and a full, rich body. If you are looking for a great daily drinker Zin, look no further. This one delivers the goods – without breaking the bank.

Mission Report:

What follows is a retransmission of our original mission report – in which Agent Red first becomes acquainted with today’s winery:

I got the call shortly before 10pm.

“Go for Agent Red,” I answered.

“Red, its White. Priority Alpha 7 mission directive.”

“Ready to receive.”

With that, my W.I.N.E. handheld device came to life, its dual displays indicating that a mission was being uploaded. I sprang to life as well, quickly dressing in my night tac suit.

The soft double brrt from the device told me that my order had been received. I spoke a command, and the soft female voice of the device declared the following:

”Target: Pedroncelli Winery. Coordinates and navigational data uploaded to your vehicle. Satellite thermal imaging has detected numerous bodies in the vineyards. Patterns of movement are contrary to conformity to expected norms, suggesting that a late-night harvest may be underway. Proceed to winery and assess the situation. Report findings to Agent White.”

As the device finished speaking, I was exiting my safe house… But, instead of heading to the winery, I diverted for my previously scheduled rendezvous with Agent Sparkle – at our favorite Sonoma County wine bar, [REDACTED].

Sparkle was waiting for me at the bar, and I explained to her that I needed to file a quick report before settling in for an evening of tasting and light dining.

I tucked myself into a dark corner, pulled out my handheld and whispered my ‘report’:

”Agent Red. Field recon report. Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards. I have identified the winemaker, vineyard manager and numerous winery personnel at work in the Zinfandel blocks of the estate vineyards. Grapes are being inspected and measured and spirited conversation is ongoing, particularly between vineyard manager and winemaker. Wait. It looks as though a picking decision has been made… Tractors… Bins… they are harvesting. It is obvious that these grapes are being picked to Pedroncelli’s fabled Midnight Run Zinfandel. Mystery solved, mission complete, Agent Red out!

I snapped my handheld shut, took a deep bow and, with a flourish, present my arm to my waiting lady-Agent. She smiled wryly and said, “Shouldn’t I get credit for that mission, Red? I told you about that wine just last week!”

“Well, m’lady, at least you know that I listen to everything you tell me.”

”Everything, eh?” And with that she gave me her ‘you jerk’ smile as we sidled up to the bar and ordered our wines.

If you love great QPR Zinfandel that doesn’t drink like a crummy budget wine, then I wholeheartedly recommend today’s wonderful Midnight Run Zinfandel from Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards.

P.S. Don’t tell Agent White that I cheated on today’s mission!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Pedroncelli Winery and vineyards can be seen in satellite photo.

2005 Robert Craig Winery Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Cabernet

Mission Codename: The Power and the Glory

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: In 2009, The Wine Spies featured Robert Craig’s stupendous 2006 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. Operatives loved the wine, buying up cases in record numbers. Send Agent Red back to the winery to procure their 2005 Mt. Veeder Cab, a wine reported to be even better than the successive vintage.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Robert Craig Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Mt. Veeder – Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Robert Craig

Backgrounder:

Mt. Veeder, located on the eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range has a climate that is cooler than the valley floor below. This climate and the more difficult (less fertile) volcanic mountain soil influence the flavors of the wines from this region. Most known for both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder is known for producing grapes of exceptional character and intensity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and rich dark garnet, with a darker heart of black plum. On swirling, the edges of the wine show off ruby hues. When the wine settles, thin legs emerge high on the glass before making their way downward.

Smell – Lush and broad, with aromatic black cherry, blackberry, cassis and crushed dried red flowers. These mingle easily with soft spice, smoky cherry, cedar and anise.

Feel – Ultra-plush, this wine glides across the front palate and reveals a medium-body, beginning at the mid-palate and spreading outward. Full, ripe tannins and a hint of minerality give the wine a luxurious feel that invites repeated sipping.

Taste – Leading with big dark cherry, blackberry and cassis, and revealing soft sweetwoods, smoky blueberry, violets, subtle black tea, cigar box and soft spice.

Finish – Profound and long, with dark fruit – particularly black cherry. This wine goes on and on, eventually ending with cassis and soft spice with tender dark minerals.

Conclusion – The 2005 Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Cabernet is a tremendous wine that I liked even better than the 2006. Chalk this up to the added year of bottle age, or the fact that 2005 was a 95-point year (over 2006’s 92). Either way, this wine delivers a bolder and more delicious experience than its little brother, the 2006. This is the sort of wine that is difficult to put down, once you start sipping it. Long on flavor and big aromatics, this is a bold wine that does not overpower the senses. Rather, the wine holds it all together, in a package that is balanced and delicious in its presentation. A very food-friendly wine, we paired our review bottle with garlic-rubbed grilled steaks and fresh greenbeans. The combination was delicious. This wine gets our heartiest recommendation.

Mission Report:

What follows is our original interview with winemaker, Keith Emerson, in which he mentions another fabulous Robert Craig wine than the better one we are showcasing today:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Keith Emerson

DATE OF BIRTH: 3/22/76

PLACE OF BIRTH: Boston, Mass.

WINE EDUCATION: Enology & Viticulture / Fermentation Science B.S., UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Director of Winemaking – Vineyard 29, Consulting Winemaker – Robert Craig Winery, Winemaker – Knighton Family Vineyards, Leaf + Twig Vineyard, Gundlach Bundschu Winery, Bartholomew
Park Winery, Owner / Winemaker – Emerson Brown Wines, Owner / Winemaker – Emerson Wines (all current)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Gentle, meticulous handling and attention to detail every step of the way. Small lot, hands on winemaking, utilizing gravity as much as possible and showcasing the fruit from each specific site.

SIGNATURE VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Establishment of Emerson Brown Wines in 2005 (tremendously successful, boutique Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc), hand crafted in Vineyard 29’s state of the art facility

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Establishment of Emerson Wines in 2009. Single-vineyard (Shea Vineyard) Oregon Pinot Noir, hand crafted in Vineyard 29’s state of the art facility

WINEMAKER QUOTE: If you work harder than the next guy and pay attention to detail every step of the way, good things will happen!

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Keith Emerson. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Robert Craig Winery “Affinity” Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KEITH: Thanks for having me

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KEITH: I grew up in the restaurant and bar business back east. I’ve always said that I fell in love with wine through food.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

KEITH: Honestly, on the job experience has been even more beneficial than my studies at UC Davis (though I learned a lot there as well, of course).

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

KEITH: Gentle, meticulous handling and attention to detail every step of the way. Small lot, hands on winemaking, utilizing gravity as much as possible and showcasing the fruit from each specific site.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KEITH: I’ve been fortunate to work with and learn from several world class winemakers including Philippe Melka, Andy Erickson, Celia Welch, Zelma Long, Allan Johnson (NZ), and others.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

KEITH: 12 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KEITH: The wine drinker!

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

KEITH: The amazing geological activities that have occurred here over time. So many microclimates and soil types in such a small valley!

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

KEITH: Lots of hard work, ridiculous hours, don’t ever plan on vacationing in September or October for the rest of your life!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KEITH: Online interviews (kidding)! Post-harvest vineyard meetings, post-harvest wine lot evaluation tastings, barreling down 2009 reds, ordering bottling supplies for upcoming bottling season, winterizing the winery, etc.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

KEITH: 2006 was my first vintage working with Robert Craig Winery and thus my first opportunity to influence the wines. The 2006 Affinity is a harmonious blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, with a few additional Bordeaux blenders, from select valley and hillside vineyards.

Aroma: Concentrated berry and black cherry fruit at the forefront, underlaiin with sweet cassis and touches of violets, lavender and spicy oak. Flavors: A beautifully polished core of black fruit on the mid-palate, interwoven with black olive, red currant, espresso and a hint of maple. Finish: Lush and generous, focusing on more dense fruit, enlivened with crisp acidity and silky, fine-grained tannins.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KEITH: Rack of lamb

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

KEITH: Huge Boston Celtics, Red Sox, New England Patriots fan

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

KEITH: Difficult to say though I always love a clean, refreshing Vhinos Verde from Portugal.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

KEITH: With an open mind and an appreciation for exciting, unique, well-made wines

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

KEITH: Tough question… maybe DRC La Tache

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

KEITH: Thanks very much!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Robert Craig Winery in the Howell Mountain region of Napa can be seen in this satellite photo.