2007 Mutt Lynch Winery Canis Major Zinfandel, Perotti Vineyard

 

Mission Codename: The Dog Star

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Mutt Lynch Winery, and secure an allocation of their premium label Canis Major Zinfandel for our Dry Creek Valley Zin-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mutt Lynch Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Canis Major Perotti Vineyard Zinfandel

Winemaker: Chris Lynch

Backgrounder:

The lush Dry Creek Valley, in Sonoma County, is home to some of our most favorite wineries. A still and beautiful place the Dry Creek Valley is fertile, lush and abundant with vineyards that produce an astonishing range of wines. From creek-side low-lying vineyards to those at higher elevations, the variety of flavors and styles – even among a particular varietal – is astounding.

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley_ Zinfandel, which are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep purple, with an inky heart that, when held up to the light, actually shows as perfectly transparent. At the rim of the wine, a thin band of light plum shimmers alluringly. When the wine settles after swirling, thin legs streak the glass.

Smell – Bright and fruity, this wine exudes blueberry jam and blackberries. These are joined by raspberry, vanilla, oak and soft spice.

Feel – Round and wet, easy on the attack, then a soft grippiness eases its way across the palate, starting at the tip of the tongue and spreading its way around the mouth.

Taste – Balanced black and red fruit, with pronounced blackberry and red cherry. These intermingle easily with black plum, cranberry, black cherry, dark chocolate, black pepper and soft oak.

Finish – Bright and refreshing, at first. Then, a smoldering smokiness meshes with the dark fruits as flavors tail off slowly.

Conclusion – This is a very impressive wine – at a great price. To find a single vineyard Zinfandel of this quality was a real coup for us. Very easy drinking and very well-balanced, this is a terrific Zinfandel for solo sipping or paring with a great meal. The acid profile lends the wine to very flexible pairing. If you have never experienced a Mutt Lynch wine before, this is the one to try! We give the wine 5 Woofs.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mutt Lynch Winery Winemaker Brenda Lynch

WINE EDUCATION: Hard Work. Vintages at numerous RRV artisan wineries and a vintage in Argentina. Full-time Mutt Lynch starting in 1998.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker/owner of Mutt Lynch Winery.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: A traditionalist. I believe in minimal manipulation during fermentation and aging to let the fruit be the hero.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Focus on the vineyard to get ripe, true varietal character at harvest. And don’t “F” it up in the winery.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1995 vintage released in 1998.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Chris. We are thrilled to be showing your Canis Major Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

CHRIS: No worries.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: In 1986, a bum knee ended my volleyball years and prompted a job hunt. E & J Gallo was hiring and I applied. I discovered my love of nature and comfort with the production work of our family ranch were natural leads into the rhythms and physical work requirements of winemaking. What started as “just a job” turned into a life-long passion – winemaking. RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CHRIS: In 1994, I started to work in the cellars of some very talented winemakers in Northern California – Daniel Moore (Lynmar Winery in Russian River Valley), Dan Goldfield (Hartford Court Winery) and Zelma Long (Long Vineyards in Napa Valley). It was the combination of these experiences and interactions formed my fundamental winemaking belief – that wines are made in the vineyard.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

CHRIS: Definitely not wine reviewers. I make wines that I imagine my customers will like to drink… that taste really, really good.

RED: That’s the right answer! Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

CHRIS: The first wine I produced way back when was a DCV Zinfandel. A wine style that my husband and I love to drink. In 1997, we started to get some beautiful Zinfandel fruit from a father/son grower team Ed and Bruce Perotti. And we’ve been producing this wine ever since. The 2007 Canis Major Zinfandel, Perotti Vineyard, DCV is the 11th year of producing this wine. As Zinfandel goes, I like to think it has some elegance. Winemaking is very hands-on. Open top fermentation, hand punchdowns, only free-run juice into 100% French oak barrels, minimal handling in the cellar. Only the best barrels included in the blend. You get the picture. 271 cases produced… that’s it.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

CHRIS: Buster’s ribs. We live in Calistoga and our local rib joint has great slow cooked, dry rubbed ribs. No heavy or sweet bbq sauce, just good pork ribs with a nice open flame, smoky character.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

CHRIS: Dry Creek Valley is god’s country for full flavored reds. It gets all the evening breezes and fogs that keep nighttime temps cool, but enough afternoon heat to ripen Zinfandel and other reds. Plus, there are wonderful, humble growers like the Perotti’s that make purchasing grapes a rewarding experience. No massive ego’s to deal with, just good growers of grapes willing to listen to me.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CHRIS: I’m getting ready for our next bottling, so mega barrel work to finish up the wines and put final blends together. Wish me luck.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

CHRIS: Leave your ego at the door. Wine is meant to enjoy, with food, with friends, with your dogs!!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

CHRIS: Bark Less, Wag More!!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

2008 Alana Estate Martinborough Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Kiwi Connection

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive and delicious single vineyard Pinot Noir from New Zealand

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Alana Estate

Wine Subject: 2008 Martinborough Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Chris Archer

Backgrounder:

Martinborough, at the southern tip of New Zealand’s North Island sits at 40 degrees south (about equivalent to Mendocino on the northern side) is well know for intense and distinct Pinot Noir reminiscent of those from Burgundy. While Pinot Noir thrives in its mineral-laden soils and cool climate other varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling also does very well. The region accounts for about 1% of New Zealand’s total wine production.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet and ruby with a clean dense core that shows ruby red and violet highlights. The color remains intense to the very edge of the glass and when swirled the initially fat legs thin as they streak down the side of the glass.

Smell – Expansive aromas of tart black cherry are integrated with classic Pinot scents of floral violets, soft earth, sweet exotic spice and toasted vanilla oak.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this medium-to-full bodied wine has silky fine tannins with subtle firmness. Bright acidity and earthy dark minerality blend with a touch of spice hits on the tip of the tongue.

Taste – Not quite lean or austere, the tart black cherry along with hints of cranberry and plum fruit shines through but doesn’t overpower the balanced flavors of earth, exotic sweet spice, toasted oak, mocha and cola flavors that glide over the palate.

Finish – Medium in length and super clean in character with this wine’s silky texture gripping the black cherry and other flavors as they fade softly.

Conclusion – The 2008 Alana Estate Martinborough Pinot Noir is a delicious single vineyard Pinot that rivals California, Oregon and even the best of Burgundy. Showing its own distinct character of finesse and balance, and regardless of your preference, this wine is sure to please.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Ian. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Alana Estate Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

IAN: It’s a pleasure, thank you.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

IAN: On a trip to Burgundy many years ago I visited the wine cellars in Beaune and have been hooked ever since.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

IAN: Once again Burgundy white and red. La Montrachet is a wine that is the holy grail of Chardonnay and we strive to emulate this style, with red it’s the area of Nuit St George in Burgundy and its pinot that has the influence.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

IAN: We strive to make wine that can be enjoyed and appreciated by the range of consumers, whether or not they are wine enthusiasts.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

IAN:. The 08 Pinot is typical of the Pinot style that we strive to produce at Alana Estate. The wine exhibits graceful distinctiveness and exudes Alana Estate’s single vineyard personality. While the Pinot is unfined and unfiltered, it is beautifully scented, perfumed and elegant with fine knitted tannins that give the wine great structure.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

IAN: I enjoy this Pinot with several foods from pasta to meat dishes. However, I would have to say my personal favorite is when we pair it with game meats like duck and pheasant.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Martinborough region so special?

IAN: The entire Martinborough region in the southernmost point of the North Island is widely regarded as a perfect climate for growing Pinot Noir. Alana Estate is located on the northern edge of the Martinborough Terrace, and is believed to be the driest area of this cool climate region. Our free draining alluvial soils and cool climate give us a terroir that is ideal for Pinot Noir. We believe it is so special that we work very hard to respect the terroir and let our Pinot Noir reflect a true expression of it.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

IAN: We have just finished the 2010 vintage and attending to the ferments as they finish. Tonnage and quality are superb so great wines to look forward to.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

IAN: Interest in New World wines from New Zealand is growing, the wines are evolving and becoming more and more focused and individual. Discovering new boutique wines that you can enjoy is great fun! In general we believe consumers should enjoy wines they want to drink no matter if it’s at the lower or higher price end. It’s what you like about the wine and it’s the wine itself that counts.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

IAN: Just to say thanks again, we hope you enjoy our wines as much as we enjoyed making them.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Alana Estate in the Martinborough, New Zealand can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Bourassa Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Franc

Mission Codename: Francly the best

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of the Reserve Petite Sirah from our friends at Bourassa Vineyards.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Bourassa Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Cabernet Franc Napa Valley

Winemaker: Gary Galleron

Backgrounder: Cabernet Franc is one of Agent Red’s favorite red varietals. Perhaps this is because its flavors are often rich, layered, complex and elegant. Or, perhaps he loves Cabernet Franc so much because it pairs so exceptionally with many different foods. One of the most notable things about Cabernet Franc is the fact that finding excellent examples can be very difficult. Agent Red recently scoured the Napa Valley to bring you today’s exceptional selection from our old friends at Bourassa Vineyards. Red Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep red-purple, this wine has a richly viscous look to it. When swirled, the surface of the wine appears heavy. When it settles, one round of heavy legs falls immediately down the glass. A few moments later, a second set starts high up on the glass. This wine-stained set of tears have a medium width, and they move very slowly down the glass.

Smell – Rich and dark, meaty and robust, with lush aromas of dark berry, earthen mushroom, dark plum, and soft vanilla.

Feel – Cool and light on entry, then quickly grippy, with a dryness that spreads from the edges of the palate inward.

Taste – In contrast to the look and dark aromatics of this wine, it presents initial flavors that are surprisingly bright and tart. Leading the way are young strawberry, cassis, cranberry and cherry. These are followed by darker flavors of plum and toasty oak.

Finish – Long and lingering, with bright fruits that tail off gently, eventually leading to a softly mineral feel and flavors of dark plum and soft oak.

Conclusion – The look of this wine belies its bright and shiny in-the-mouth character. Where the wine looks and even smells deeply foreboding, on the palate it is bright and softly tart with a high acidity that makes it a great food companion. With loads of red fruit and leading the way, this wine is a delicious and well-balanced treat. For those who shy away from Franc’s sometimes vegetal character, don’t fret. You won’t find any green in this wine. We enjoyed our sample bottles with roasted asparagus with fresh thyme, and sesame crusted seared Ahi steaks. This was a great pairing with this very tasty and very flexible wine.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Efrain Baragan, Assistant Winemaker

WINE EDUCATION: School of hard knocks! I’m a renegade winemaker! I learned my trade form doing hands on work and learning from veteran winemakers in the valley!

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Keep it simple, keep it clean, and don’t overdo it!

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “The art of winemaking is to blend the best lots to make amazing wine”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2001

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Efrain Barragan. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Cabernet Franc today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

EFRAIN: Thanks, Red. It’s great to be working with The Wine Spies, again!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

EFRAIN: Wine runs through my veins! I remember when I was a boy, my father would take me out to the vineyard to teach me what he knew about growing grapes.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

EFRAIN: Our consulting winemaker, Gary Galleron was a really influential person in my winemaking career. Gary Galleron worked alongside Mike Girgich back in 1976 at Chateau Montelena. He has worked for wineries like Vineyard 29, Whitehall Lane, Grace Family, Hartwell Vineyards. Think Bottle Shock the Movie ~ he helped make the Chardonnay!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

EFRAIN: I enjoy making wine that people want to drink! I like to make Old Napa style wines. Good wine, with good fruit, and good balance.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

EFRAIN: The 2006 Cabernet Franc is a very unique wine. It’s not your typical herbaceous, vegetal wine. This wine is very fruit driven and it has an amazing flavor profile. The wine is very elegant yet very complex. The wine aged in 50% new French oak and 50% 2nd use oak.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

EFRAIN: I would pair this wine with some Duck or even Lamb.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

EFRAIN: The fruit source for this Cabernet Franc is in Calistoga. Calistoga tends to be a bit warmer than the rest of the valley. The advantage to that is that the fruit ripens very quickly hence eliminating the herbaceous and vegetal character. Generally Cabernet Franc is a little too earthy, but the fruit coming out of Calistoga is amazing. Cab Franc in Calistoga tends to be more intense in fruit flavor.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

EFRAIN: Sorting barrels, bottling, and planning for the next harvest.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

EFRAIN: This particular wine is drinkable now but could age gracefully for the next 7 years. I would say enjoy it now and “Celebrate Life”

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

EFRAIN: Enjoy the wine and I hope you will come and visit us at Bourassa Vineyards.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Bourassa Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Miro Cellars Old Vine Zinfandel

Mission Codename: Better Still

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Miro Cellars and return with the next release of Miro’s much loved Russian River Valley Zinfandel.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Miro Cellars

Wine Subject: 2008 Alexander Valley Old Vines Zinfandel

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. The Russian River Valley, where this Zinfandel’s grapes are are grown are characterized by their balanced flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Today’s wine comes to us from the Alexander Valley. Zinfandels from this Norther Sonoma County region are are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Burgundy-hued, with a clear but deep and darkening heart of dark purple. A fine ruby edge highlights the wine around the edge of the glass. After swirling, thin legs start high on the glass, and then move swiftly downward.

Smell – Candied spiced cherry rush up to greet the nose. This deep and aromatic feature combines bright red cherry, with soft spice of cinnamon, clove and black pepper. Additional fruits of blackberry and blueberry are accompanied by raspberry, subtle tomato stem, soft leather, black fig and the subtlest hint of smoked meats.

Feel – This wine feels very wide on entry, giving the impression that you can feel it beyond the boundaries of your palate. After a moment, it becomes quickly grippy, beginning at the tip of the tongue and working its way backward, drying the lips and cheeks as a flinty minerality appears with the soft spice from the nose and palate.

Taste – Big and bold and jammy, with sweet black fruit and softly tangy red fruit. Leading with bold blackberry, overripe blueberry, then quickly revealing young strawberry, dark raspberry and red currant. Spices of cinnamon and clove round out the wine, with a flinty minerality that comes at the end, along with smoky cherry.

Finish – This wine finishes lush and bold, with flavors that tail off very slowly. As flavors fade, you are left with a mouth-coated feel that makes the mouth water as you recall bold flavors and the unique feel.

Conclusion – This is a terrific Zinfandel that had me wondering, Why can’t more California Zins be as multi-dimensional and delicious?! Miro, or Agent KGB as we now call him, has become a hero of sorts to us Wine Spies. We have been consistently delighted with the style and quality of his wines. Today’s 2008 Zinfandel reinforces our love of his excellent skills as a winemaker. This wine is big and bold, but it has great poise. It delivers big flavors and a unique feel, but it never overpowers. Even though young, this wine is ready to drink now. We can’t wait to see how our cellared bottles taste in a few years!

Mission Report:

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: February 4, 1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: So far I made my mark with Petite sirah for the Miro brand, with my other jobs I have done very well with other varieties and blends. In general I’m very fond of perhaps the only two varieties that California has claim to fame as truly “heritage” –P. Sirah and Zinfandel. My Petite has done well with the gate keepers and media so far.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.
I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country…
There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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AGENT RED: Greetings, Miro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIRO TCHOLAKOV: A pleasure. My ’06 has become very popular and your Operatives are going to see the last of it.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIRO: I don’t think that there was any specific event-wine has always been part of our life back in Bulgaria. We made every year about 1000 liters and manage to drink most of it before the next harvest. Wine has always been part of the life circle, just like making cheese or jam or tomato sauces. We also made grappa every year. My grandfather Mariano was the initial inspiration and the first hand source of winemaking knowledge.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIRO: The real winemaking I learned during my first years at Dry Creek. I’m not done with the learning by any means yet. Back in Bulgaria we made the wine in the most pure way possible. We rarely used even sulfur! No additives and none of the modern gadgets-just grapes and barrels.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MIRO: Don’t play with the wine just because you know how. Only intervene when you absolutely have to and you are sure of the outcome. Always pay attention to the details all the time. Everything you do to the wine-matters!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIRO: Well I don’t think there is just one person-it is more of a collective of people and styles. I do not believe that I have a particular style per say-I just try to get out of the grapes the most from every vintage-and that would be different every year.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

MIRO: Legally? Commercially –this harvest was my number 20!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIRO: I guess I can say that first I want to be satisfied with the wines I make and of course it will be great if a lot of people including media like them as well. Otherwise I’ll have a lot of wine to drink by myself…

RED: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

MIRO: In a word, variety!

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MIRO: You have to love the job. If you are in it just 8 to 5 don’t even think about it. If the love and passion are not there you will be just a booze maker. Also you have to be willing to sacrifice a lot of time and long days and hours away from the family.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: I am just now returning from a consulting job in Bulgaria. I can’t wait to begin bottling the 2008 Miro Cellars Petite Sirah, 2008 Miro Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon and my first Pinot Noir, a 2009 vintage wine. It’s good.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MIRO: Zinfandel is one of my favorite varietals. It is truly California wine. I like the big, jammy, fruit-forward style. Zinfandel is very sweet when the grapes attain true ripeness, so that results in a generous percentage of alcohol for a dry red. I like to balance that alcohol with plenty of flavor and finesse it with complex fruit aroma. I was really lucky with this vintage—no smoke taint.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: This wine is great with anything from Wednesday night spaghetti and meatballs at home to a rich Coniglio Con Acciughe e Pomodori prepared by a skilled Italian chef.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIRO: I wanted to be a MD back in Bulgaria but my girlfriend talked me out of it

RED: Thank goodness for us fans of your wines! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIRO: Rhone wines for sure. I even make one for a winemaker called Cuvee Sasha a GSM-simply delicious without all the pretence.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MIRO: Think of them as $100 bottle of wines and you will not be disappointed. I hate the cliché but they are “affordable luxury”

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MIRO: I would like to try again the 1927 Château D’yquem

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MIRO: Have I been connected to KGB? The answer is –perhaps!

RED: Our intel reports were correct then! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MIRO: Thank you! Wine Spies days are always very exciting around here. Your customers are well-informed, and they know good wine.

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the approximate location of the Miro Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate location of the Old Vine Zinfandel vineyards at the Passalacqua/Seghesio property can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Ridgeline Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Mission Codename: Higher Vistas

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Ridgeline Vineyards, a sister winery of our friends at Artesa

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ridgeline Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2003 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Dave Dobson

Backgrounder:

Today’s Cabernet Sauvignon comes to us from our good friends at Ridgeline Vineyards, in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. The Alexander Valley AVA in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and dense purple with a dark but clear core. The color remains intense all the way to the very edge, and when swirled, slow fat legs cling the the side of the glass before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Rich and aromatic with scents of ripe and sweet red and black berries layered over notes of vanilla toast oak, sweet tobacco, subtle exotic spice and hints of earthiness and black licorice.

Feel – Initially gripping with firm tannins, but once this dry wine opens, the texture becomes silky smooth with notes of spice and dark minerality that lingers into the finish.

Taste – Rich and plush notes of ripe sweet and wild dark red and black fruit are integrated with classic Cabernet flavors of exotic spice, subtle herbal and earthy notes, black licorice, vanilla and oak.

Finish – Medium in length and fading smoothly and gracefully leaving just a hint of its silky tannins and minerality behind.

Conclusion – The 2003 Ridgeline Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious and very approachable Cabernet Sauvignon. Its silky and plush mouthfeel (once open) makes this wine easy to drink and pair and will appeal to a broad spectrum of winedrinkers. Not overly extracted or bold on the palate, but showing its fruit in a more subtle manner makes this wine a joy to drink without being too aggressive.

Mission Report:

What follows, for your enjoyment, is a recap of Agent White’s original mission to Artesa, the sister winery of today’s winery, Ridgeline. The following mission is from early 2009:

Finally, I was able to wrangle a choice assignment away from Agent Red! And, while he did all of the leg work for today’s mission, I get the glory.

Red had Artesa under surveillance for a long time, probably too long. I all fairness, he did gather a great deal on intel on the winery and that set the stage for my quick infiltration. If any mission goes on for too long, I am usually the one that is called on to complete the mission – and get the wine.

Read Agent Red’s mission updates in the W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine for our newest Operatives) archives. For my part, I’ll just tell you that a couple of calls to senior management at Artesa was all it took to secure today’s wine.

Rather than bore you with those details, I do want to point out a few things about Artesa and their world-class team.

If you ever find yourself in Napa, a visit to Artesa is not just recommended, it is essential. The winery grounds, sculpture gardens, architecture, and winery are magnificent. One has the feeling of visiting a world-class art museum, a winery and even a place of worship when spending time at Artesa.

In my case, the winery was the place of worship! For all of Artesa’s ambiance and style, the winery is really the divine place where their great wines are born. A few afternoon hours with the great counter staff – spent tasting through their wines – was such a delightful treat. The people, like the wines, were great fun.

Artesa in the U.S. is the extension of a Spanish winemaking family that dates back to the year 1551, when the Codorníu family first made wine at Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, in the Penedès region of Spain, just west of Barcelona.

The family continues making wines for centuries and in 1872, becomes the first in the world to make sparkling wines outside of Champagne in the méthode champenoise. This revolutionizes Spain’s wine industry.

In 1897, Codorníu is declared the exclisive supplier of wine to the king of Spain, King Alfonso XIII.

In 1915, the Codorníu winery build the world’s largest wine cellars, with five subterranean levels extending 16 miles.

The winery continues to grow and gain in prestige and honor for the next several decades. In 1989, they break ground on a revolutionary new winery in the Napa Valley. In 1991, Codorníu Napa opens as a méthode champenoise facility in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. Those of you that know our tastes, know that The Wine Spies are enamored with the Carneros region.

In 1999, the winery is renamed Artesa Winery and releases its inaugural wines – two Chardonnays, three Pinot Noirs, and a Sauvignon Blanc – to critical acclaim.

Earlier this year, the winery is joined by one of America’s only multi-generational winemakers, Mark Beringer. In the United States, ‘multi-generational’ in winemaking usually means two or three generations have been involved in the craft. Mark, whose great, great grandfather was winemaking pioneer, Jacob Beringer, is a fifth generation winemaker and head of winemaking for Artesa and Ridgeline today.

Throughout his career, Mark has been recognized as a leader and a pioneer in the field of winemaking. He has received numerous kudos and awards, including Winemaker of the Year by The San Francisco Chronicle.

If you can’t make it out to Artesa, at least you’ll be able to get a taste of the place by picking up a few bottles of today’s great wine.

As for Agent Red, don’t feel too bad for him. He was pretty bummed out that I was able to close the deal with Artesa, but that case of Artesa Cab I secured for him is keeping him plenty happy. For the moment!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Alexander Valley AVA in Sonoma County can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Viader DARE Tempranillo

Mission Codename: El Pájaro Mas Temprano Gana

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire the winery exclusive Tempranillo from our inside asset at Napa Valley’s Viader

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Viader

Wine Subject: 2006 DARE Tempranillo

Winemaker: Alan Viader & Delia Viader

Backgrounder: Native to Spain, Tempranillo is a black grape that is most commonly found in Rioja. It gets its name as Tempranillo ripens several weeks earlier (mas temprano) than the other red grapes native to the region. Although not true, many believe this grape to be related to Pinot Noir. With its rich and full-bodied character and crowd pleasing aromas and flavors of dark berries, plum, vanilla, herbs and a touch of leather, Tempranillo is now widely planted all around the globe.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look -Dark purple and violet with ruby red streaks that shine through its dense but clear core. Along the edges the color remains dark and when swirled, legs of random speeds and thicknesses descend to the wine below.

Smell – Rich in intensity with aromas of softly spiced dark fruit including red plum and and black cherry. Notes of sweet cigar tobacco, soft earthy aromas, mild wild anise and subtle violets and vanilla toasted oak makes this wine complex but also very approachable on the nose.

Feel – Soft, smooth and rich, this dry full-bodied wine has well developed and mouth-coating tannins that are well developed but still firm in structure. Softer acidity and texture dark minerality add to the expansive mouth feel of this wine.

Taste – Plump and plush flavors of rich dark berries, cherry, ripe plum and blueberry are layered over subtle vanilla toasted oak, smokey and sweet cigar tobacco and a hint of herbal and floral flavors.

Finish – Long and rich with its broad fruit flavors lingering and gently fading as the soft but well structured tannins linger and make the mouth water and beg for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Viader DARE Tempranillo is an absolutely delightful wine. A perfect blend of rich and expansive fruit on both the nose and the palate with a soft but well defined structure Extremely easy to drink and food friendly to boot. If you buy only one Tempranillo this year, then make this the one.

Mission Report:

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WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Delia Viader, PhD

WINE EDUCATION: European upbringing made wine part of the everyday experience since a very early age. Completed a Masters at the School of Fermentation Sciences at UC Davis.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: “Winemother” for VIADER wine and present winemaker, my son Alan Viader

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Allow the vineyard terroir to express itself naturally in every glass

WINEMAKER QUOTE: When you taste wine from a great vineyard it has a distinct personality: a taste, a feel, a look; something that makes it different from any vineyard in the world. This distinct personality, however, is the sum of a variety of personalities within the vineyard itself. Understanding and interpreting those personalities is the greatest challenge in the evolution of a great vineyard and the wine produced from it.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Fall 2001 – 1989 VIADER proprietary Cabernet blend

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Delia Viader. We are thrilled to be showing your [wine] today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DELIA: You’re very welcome. Fire away!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DELIA: When I was about 12 years old, my father passed me a taste from his glass and asked for my opinion. I thought it was the nicest wine I had ever tasted. It turned out to be a 1970 Petrus! It was his favorite “Merlotte” (he would pronounce the “t”) that he would bring out for special occasions.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DELIA: In terms of shining the light on aspiring towards elegance in wine, I would say Emile Peynaud.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

DELIA: I make wine for people to enjoy with food and to encourage conviviality.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DELIA: My son Alan and I came across some Tempranillo vines when touring a friend’s vineyard in the Chiles Valley district of Napa Valley. I noticed the grapes and leaves were not from any Bordeaux varietals, and when I learned it was Tempranillo, I was really excited. I immediately thought, “What if we “dared” to present a Spanish varietal to our customers, in homage to our Spanish roots?” (The Viader family name originated just outside of Barcelona.) This clone of Tempranillo comes from the Ribera del Duero region, which unlike Rioja, is more full-bodied, fruit-forward and structured with a nice minerality in the finish.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DELIA: Mildly spiced tapas or pasta dishes and of course, try it with jamon iberico if you can find it.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

DELIA: The perfect combination of soil, climate – and the “woman’s touch.”

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DELIA: We have just finished our second round of blending for the 2008 vintage wines, and we are getting an early start with the 2009’s. Everything is on track and looking good!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

DELIA: Expect to be pleasantly surprised by the approachability, the purity of the fruit, and the elegance of structure.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

DELIA: Do your heart a favor, drink a glass of wine with your meal!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Viader in Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Peterson Winery Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: The Bear Cub

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Peterson Winery and score a limited allocation of their fantastic 2007 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder:

Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. While The Wine Spies have been trying to keep from acquiring too many wines from the region when the wines are great, so why not?

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and dark bluish purple and almost black in color with a nearly inky core. The dense color of this wine extends to the meniscus where the color shows garnet. When swirled, the glass-staining (and teeth and tongue too) legs descend to the wine below at random speed.

Smell – Bold and rich intensity with ripe and sweet black fruit and plum over a base of vanilla and toasted oak. Sweet and dark earthy minerality aromas meld with spice and dark cocoa hints.

Feel – Surprisingly mellow, rich and round in its attack, this dry wine has well developed ripe tannins that expand over the palate but don’t overpower the flavors nor are they overly aggressive. Soft, but balanced acidity and a textural minerality grips the fruit and other complex flavors long into the finish.

Taste – Concentrated and dense dark berries and plum with a soft and sweet jammy character blend with notes of sweet and dark earthiness, spice and vanilla and toasted oak components. Hints of bitter-sweet dark chocolate and wild anise also emerge as this wine opens up.

Finish – This wine’s expansive and robust fruit and other complex flavors fades gently in perfect unison with its well developed tannins and dark earthy minerality.

Conclusion – The 2007 Peterson Winery Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah is the kind of Petite Sirah that will change the minds of even this biggest skeptics of the varietal. Rich, dense and amazingly smooth this wine grabs hold but does so in a soft manner. As Jamie and Fred suggest, this wine is perfect for a hearty stew and we paired with with my top secret 5 pepper/3 bean chili.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jamie Peterson

DATE OF BIRTH: March 20, 1981

PLACE OF BIRTH: Saratoga, CA (Mt. Eden Vineyards)

WINE EDUCATION: Ongoing, on-the-job. UC Davis Extension chemistry/lab analysis/viticulture classes.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Grew up in Peterson Winery, helping with odd jobs in the winery and vineyard as a teenager. Worked first harvest at 19, and then traveled to Australia and New Zealand to work harvest in 2001. took over as Assistant Winemaker at Peterson Winery in 2002. Given full Winemaker responsibility in 2006.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Zero Manipulation”/Minimal intervention, letting the vineyard and vintage show through in each bottling. No fining, no filtration. Minimal new oak usage, minimal additions and SO2 use.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Jamie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah, today. We love the wine!! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. And, thanks for making such amazing wines!

JAMIE: Thank you for giving me the time.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JAMIE: It’d be hard to pick one. Growing up with the sights, sounds, and smells of the winery and vineyards, there were many inspirational moments. But I didn’t think I’d be getting into the life of wine as deeply as I have until I worked harvests in 2001 in Australia and New Zealand. Seeing the international wine community and how it ties people together made me decide to come back to the family winery and join full time in 2002.

WHITE: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JAMIE: From my father, growing up in the winery, and being able to learn on the job.

WHITE : What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JAMIE: I believe that vineyard and vintage driven wines are the only reason for small wineries to exist. I prefer wines from different vintages to reflect the growing season (otherwise why put the vintage on the bottle?) rather than use additives (acid, tannins, enzymes, gum arabic, overblown new oak) or technological processes (filtration, alcohol removal, micro-oxygenation) to create wines that taste the same each year. I don’t filter or fine our wines, and I predominantly use native yeast fermentations and malo-lactics, so we have to keep things clean and monitor closely, as we don’t choose to use the tools for fixing mistakes that some wineries do. We source from the same vineyards each year, so there is a thread of continuity running through vintages. Our vineyards are sustainably farmed, with a few certified organic, and a number of others dry-farmed.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JAMIE: I’m inspired by European vintners who have made wines from the same places for generations, and haven’t succumbed to commercialism.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

JAMIE: 2002 was my first full year of working with wines from grape to bottle. 2000 was the first full harvest I worked with my father. At 28, I have 12 harvests under my belt (including working in both Australia and New Zealand in 2001).

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

JAMIE: I make wines for my own tastes, and then we find enough people that share our ideas to buy it. We don’t submit our wines for scoring or competitions.

WHITE: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

JAMIE: The Dry Creek Valley features and amazing array of soil types and exposures for such a geographically small area, leading to a diverse range
of flavors and subtleties in wines, even of the same varietal. This is why we make multiple single-vineyard Zinfandels, and it also helps us make
varietal wines with complex flavors from blending from different parts of the valley, such as our Petite Sirah.

WHITE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JAMIE: Realize that winemaking is both simple and complicated. It’s all just fermented grape juice, but it’s all about the details; every minute little thing you do or don’t do to the grapes or wine will affect how it turns out.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JAMIE: We’ll be bottling the majority of our 2008 reds in the next couple months. We’re keeping an eye on and tasting the 2009 wines in barrel (which
are great, by the way), and starting to think about potential blends. We’re checking on the newly awakened vineyards as well, and seeing how the start
of the growing is season is progressing.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JAMIE: Petite Sirah is not a wine we bottle every year. We primarily use Petite Sirah to blend into Zin, Carignane, or other Rhone blends, to provide
depth and tannin. Some years, when the Petite Sirah tastes right, and we have enough, we’ll set out to bottle it as a varietal. We always blend in
some Carignane, Zin, Mourvedre, and/or Syrah to give some more complexity to the monolithic Petite.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JAMIE: This wine begs for rich, smoky, earthy foods. It is more balanced in tannin than many Petite Sirah wines, and is much more versatile. I love
it with a slow smoked pork butt (pulled pork, etc), or a smoked brisket, along with assorted grilled vegetables. It’s also a no-brainer with a hearty
winter stew.

WHITE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JAMIE: I like to go mushroom hunting (for chanterelles and porcini), even though as a teenager I accidently picked and ate Death Cap mushrooms.

WHITE: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JAMIE: Zinfandel is the wine I seem to open the most often of our own, but I also drink a lot of Rhone wines, and wines from the Ventoux.

WHITE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JAMIE: So many people look for the “best” wine. I always ask them “best for what?” Every wine has a place and time for appreciating (unless it just is a wine that really sucks…), and it’s more important for people to figure out what types of wine they like, and why, than what others think is the best. Trust your own palate rather than what a critic or others say.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JAMIE: Thanks for having me, and for appreciating and featuring our wines!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mumm Napa Valley NV Cuvée M Red

Mission Codename: The Red Moose

Operative: Agent Red with Agent K2

Objective: Return to long-standing Operative bubbly-fan favorite, Mumm Napa, and return with a special sparkling wine that is only available to the public at the winery itself.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mumm Napa Valley

Wine Subject: Cuvée M Red

Winemaker: Ludovic Dervin

Backgrounder: The Wine Spies have the great fortune (okay, the skills) to be able to get their clever hands on some of the most exclusive wines in the world. For today’s wine, Agent Red and Agent K2 visited Mumm Napa – where they rendezvoused with Mumm’s Agent Bubbles – and managed to procure a small allotment of Mumm’s ultra-exclusive, winery-only, Cuvée M Red. Read our tasting notes, below, to read more about this very special sparkling delight.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Brilliant dark rub red with a deepening heart of the darkest red rose petal you can imagine. The mousse (that collection of bubbles at the top of the wine) retains a beautiful muted Burgundy color. On close inspection, a steady cascade of the finest bubbles rise to the Burgundy cotton-candy surface of the wine.

Smell – Dark and heady, with distinct black spiced cherry, dark red rose petals, black currant, soft leather, tender tobacco and exotic subtle spice.

Feel – Finely textured, with a soft rush of tiny bubbles that glide elegantly across the palate. After a moment, the wine adds a softly drying feel, that works its way slowly form the edges of the palate, inward. As this drying effect takes hold, a rush of secondary flavors is introduced.

Taste – Dynamic and delicious, with flavors that lead off with darkest mixed red berries of black cherry, raspberry and cranberry. These are joined, after the soft dryness appears, by additional flavors of overripe blackberry, spiced cherry and subtle exotic sweetwoods.

Finish – Dark and very flavor-filled, the wine presents big dark fruit at first. These initial flavors dwindle, slightly, as a soft dryness spreads its way inward across the palate. A moment later secondary flavors appear – and then take a long time to disappear.

Conclusion – Yes, we had fun in both tasting and in describing this fantastic wine. It is very easy to see why this is one of the top-selling sparkling wines at the Mumm Napa Winery; The wine is as fun as it is delicious. This wine is an experience, delivering deep and robust flavors, a fantastic and dynamic feel and a super-long and ultra-rich finish. This is the perfect companion for a hearty meal, and I would recommend it for a summer day, served with hard cheeses and exotic jams.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Ludovic Dervin

DATE OF BIRTH: November 1970

PLACE OF BIRTH: Meaux, France

WINE EDUCATION: Diplome National d’Oenologue in Reims, France., Diplome d’Etudes Superieures en Oenologie des Vins de Champagne in Reims, France.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Wine maker for Mumm Napa

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balanced wines, with power and elegance

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Mainly blends, with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Creating a new wine with Musician Carlos Santana, to benefit underprivileged children, called SANTANA RESERVE.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Sparkling wines are not wines to keep for special occasions, but wines which will make any occasion special!”

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We were unable to catch up with Ludovic for an updated interview so, here for your reading pleasure is a previous interview, in which he mentions a different wine than the one we are showing today:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Ludovic. We are thrilled to be showing your Demi-Sec today. I have to say that it is, so far, my favorite Mumm bubbly! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

LUDOVIC: Bonjour agent red, and many thanks for showcasing our great Napa Valley sparkling wines today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

LUDOVIC: I think it all started playing hide and seek in the Champagne vineyards. I was always curious about the life cycle of grapes to wine as a kid, and all the culture surrounding it. I don’t think it is really one specific bottle of wine or wine experience that lead me to embrace winemaking as a professional career, but rather the sum of many small experiences growing up in the vineyards of Champagne. Winemaking has all the ingredients that I enjoy in life. A perfect mix of cultural traditions and modern science, interactions with our environment and people. Grape vines also tend to grow in some of the most beautiful regions of the world, such as our Napa valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

LUDOVIC: I studied winemaking science and craftsmanship mainly in Champagne in my early days, but I also traveled and made wines in the new world and old world of winemaking. California, Greece, South Africa, France.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

LUDOVIC: I like to craft wines which are balanced, fruit forward and food friendly. I like wines with a crisp and refreshing acidity, with depth, power and elegance. The fruit forwardness, freshness and elegance are achieved through meticulous farming and gentle handling of the fruit to avoid excessive bruising of the berries. I think it is important to let the fruit express itself through minimum winemaking intervention, but it is the daily attention to details which separate good wines to world class excellence.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

LUDOVIC: Again, it is more a combination of all that I encountered through my life that influences my winemaking style today, rather than one single event or person. I am not trying to duplicate or emulate somebody else’s style or personality, but rather look for my own. So I only look at my past encounters as a source of inspiration to build upon. I was lucky enough to work with some great mentors through my career and it is hard to single out any one of them. If I had to pick one person each for Still wines and Sparkling wines who significantly influence how I approach winemaking today I would say Bob Cabral from Williams Selyem and Daniel Thibault from Champagne Charles and Piper Heidsieck.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

LUDOVIC: My first winemaking job was in 1990 working as one of the harvest interns at Champagne GH Mumm in France.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

LUDOVIC: I always try to keep the consumer in mind for each different wine I make. My ultimate goal is to make wines that people want. But every-once in a while I like to make small batches just to experiment for myself.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

LUDOVIC: Napa Valley is a truly unique vine growing and winemaking region in the world. It offers a great diversity of soils and elevation within a small area, giving birth to a patchwork of unique terroirs. The proximity of the Pacific Ocean brings a lot of cool air, especially at night, to help preserve natural acidity and to allow for a slow and steady ripening season, without too much rain. Last but not least, what makes this region special is a pool of talented, creative and hard working individuals with eager to succeed. Napa Valley has experienced a growth pace in the wine industry in the past 30 year with no comparison anywhere else in the world, and I think it is thanks to all these ingredients.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

LUDOVIC: I think to be a good winemaker; you need to have a good sense of observation, and be prepared for a lot of long and sleepless nights during harvest.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

LUDOVIC: Most of our wines have completed their alcoholic fermentation and are being racked off their lees in preparation for the blending sessions, which we call “ASSEMBLAGE” in the world of sparkling wines. We evaluate the final style and personality of each individual wine and decide which blend it will be part of. It is one of the most creative and artistic part of our work every year.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

LUDOVIC: Demi-sec is a winery exclusive multi-vintage blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. It has a very crisp and refreshing acidity, balanced with a little bit over 3% residual sugar, giving a lot of weight and creaminess in the mid-palate. It is a fairly rich and full bodied sparkling wine, with a lot of citrus and white berry tones, a hint of vanilla and some stone fruit flavors. A strong finish with a nutty character.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

LUDOVIC: The slight residual sweetness of this wine makes it a great pairing with most cakes and desserts, but it is also a great wine to have with sweet and sour dishes, spicy food, and rich food like foie gras. Some of my favorite pairings are Crème Brulée and whipped cream apple pie for the sweet side. It can also be a great pairing with orange duck.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

LUDOVIC: I don’t have TV at home.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

LUDOVIC: I am not an everyday kind of person. I believe in diversity and complexity, so my everyday wine somewhat changes everyday. But I tend to drink a lot of our DVX tête de cuvee sparkling wine, and a lot of Pinot Noir still wines.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

LUDOVIC: Very simply actually. We try to make different wines with very different styles and personality at Mumm Napa, so each person can find a wine they like. We all are different people and through our various life experiences, we tend to enjoy different flavors and textures. The best way to enjoy wine for me is with good food and good company. When you approach wine that way, you can really enjoy diversity. I tend to craft wines with crisp and refreshing acidity, because they pair better with food, and tend to age better. The most important thing to keep in mind when you taste wine is your personal integrity and palate. Think for yourself and don’t try to like a wine just because someone else gave it a good score or because it is expensive. Just experience and have fun. Most important with sparkling wines, get out of the habit to open them only for special occasions. They are extremely food friendly, and their festive spirit will enhance the atmosphere in a way that will make every occasion special.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

LUDOVIC: In the bubbly form, I am a big fan of Don Ruinart Champagne. A magnum of their Blanc de Blanc would work for me.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

LUDOVIC: Besides winemaking, what is the most important thing in your life; My family.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

LUDOVIC:Always a pleasure to share good time with good friends. Thanks a lot for your support and best wishes for the coming season!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The gorgeous Rutherford, California location of the Mumm Napa winery and vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Château La Bienfaisance Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Mission Codename: Return to the Right Bank

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a delicious and exclusive Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Bordeaux for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Château La Bienfaisance

Wine Subject: 2004 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Winemaker: Didier Peytour

Backgrounder: The movie Sideways may have tried to kill Merlot, but real wine lovers know that the joke is on the character Miles. He boldly proclaims: ”If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any [censored] Merlot!”, Really, and his favorite wine is Chateau Cheval Blanc? Chateau Cheval Blanc, like today’s selection from Château La Bienfaisance is a Saint-Émilion, a Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend. (For those not lucky enough to have enjoyed a Cheval Blanc, it is about 60% Cab Franc 37% Merlot and the remainder other varietals)

Fellow Wine Spies know that the wines from Saint-Émilion have been treasured since the times that the Romans initially cultivated Bordeaux’s vineyards of the Rive Droite. Each Grand Cru vineyard has its own varietal composition and this selection is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, and is heavily influenced by the region’s famed Terroir of Graves and ancient sand.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and dark purple and almost black in its inky core. Along the edges, the color remains thick showing a touch of ruby and garnet and is dense to the very meniscus. Some sediment was present when swirled.

Smell – Rich and fragrant with aromatic notes of earthy and sweet black fruit, fresh cut oak and a herbaceous note (initially some aromas of alcohol that fade as this wine breathes). A touch of dark chocolate rounds out the fresh and pleasant nose.

Feel – Silky smooth and expansive on the palate, this dry wine is medium to full-bodied with soft acidity and a touch of minerality.

Taste – Rich and ripe flavors of black cherry and blackberries along with other earthly dark fruits and layered and integrated with notes of earthy minerality, some dark chocolate, subtle herbal hints and soft oak.

Finish – Medium in length and extremely clean with the fruit and other complex flavors fading in unison.

Conclusion – The 2004 Château La Bienfaisance Saint-Emilion Grand Cru is a delicious and very approachable (and affordable) wine that is well worth a try. A big redolent nose; fantastic silky texture on the palate; soft, clean elegant fruit and other complex flavors. We paired this delicious wine with a trio of unique burgers, one lamb, one pork and one beef.

Mission Report:

All Points Bulletin: Agent White has gone A.W.O.L., presumably with Château La Bienfaisance winemaker Didier Peytour. The two should be considered armed (with corkscrews) and dangerous (as would anyone protecting a fine Saint-Émilion Grand Cru would be). If seem, please contact Agent Red at The Wine Spies OPS Center immediately.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Saint-Émilion along the rive droite of the Dordogne (and the Gironde) can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Camellia Cellars Lencioni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: A Dozen Camellias

Operative: Agent Noir

Objective: Send Agent Noir back to Camellia Cellars, in search of their best Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Camellia Cellars

Wine Subject: 2004 Lencioni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Bruce Snyder

Backgrounder: The lush Dry Creek Valley, in Sonoma County, is home to some of our most favorite wineries. A still and beautiful place the Dry Creek Valley is fertile, lush and abundant with vineyards that produce an astonishing range of wines. From creekside low-lying vineyards to those at higher elevations, the variety of flavors and styles – even among a particular varietal – is astounding. So, too, is the quality. For today’s wine, Agent Noir returned to Wine Spies favorite, Camellia Cellars, where Bruce Snyder crafts wines that are as unique as they are delicious. Read Agent Noir’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Classic garnet color with a very true Cabernet look. This wine shows an opaque black heart and thick, wine-stained legs that move slowly down the glass after swirling.

Smell – The bouquet is dusty and classic with currant and tobacco leaf mixed with a potpourri of earthy flowers. After the wine opens up, it presents sweet oak notes, hints of spice and earthy chocolate.

Feel – Medium weight, fast moving, easy and lively on the palate, but ultra smooth. Balanced and graceful, this wine has a great overall feel.

Taste – This dry and dusty Cabernet has old school California flavors and style, with plum, cherry, blackberry and sage notes. The focus is clear and the layers are well defined with nice oak and smooth tannins.

Finish – This wine finishes with a burst of fruit, wood and dry tannins, all making this wine true and classic with a late showing of blackberry jam right at the end.

Conclusion – This wine will remind you of the Cabernets of of the mid-eighties or early nineties – which is to say that it is, without question, a classic style that is very drinkable. Consider this a retro Cab that is fun and very easy to love. This balanced wine is delicious, dynamic and ready to go when you are.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Bruce Snyder

WINE EDUCATION: School of Hard Knocks

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF:None, thank goodness. If I had, I would be making someone else’s wine.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY:I believe in varietal correctness. I will have no residual sugar, lollipop wines in my portfolio. Wine should linger on the palate; acidity is good.

WINEMAKER QUOTE:Wine is a condiment to food, not a monument to itself. That is just too egotistical and juvenile.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1997

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Today’s mission was an easy one. I visited the winery, I asked for another of their great wines, the winery gave me a number of cases, I reviewed the wine, and now the rest is up to you! If you love great, classic Cabernet, then this wine is well worthy of your table – and cellar, where it will likely continue to get even better.

The last time we had a mission to Camellia Cellars, the mission report was a real hit. Because Bruce Snyder was so difficult to nail down for a full interview, today, I’ll share my original mission report with you again:

Ouch! That bottle fell right onto my head. I can’t believe that this bottle shop could be so careless with the way they stacked their bottles in this display!

As I reach up to feel the lump on the top of my head, I catch a sudden movement out of the corner of my eye. I spin around to see two figures burst through the doors of the store. The urgency on their faces tells me to brace myself for trouble.

“We’re here for Agent Red,” One of the men shouts. “He needs to come with us now.”

Bravely, so as to keep others in the store from harm, I yell, “I’m Red. Who are you?”

“My authentication word of today is Medoc!”, one of the men says with great seriousness.

Medoc is a district in France’s Bordeaux region where Cabernet Sauvignon is prominently grown. The authentication word is accurate and I follow the men through the doors… and into the burgundy-colored helicopter waiting in the street.

Once on board, Agent White barks orders to the chopper’s pilot and we are airborne. Wasting no words, White concisely and severely lays out the scenario for me: Wine-hating Oeno-terrorists group D.W.I.N.D.L.E. (Destroy Wine, Imbibe Noxious Drinks Like Ethanol) has threatened to render Cabernet Sauvignon grapes unsuitable for vinification by releasing a gene which destroys the grapes inherent good qualities. Their plan is to release a cloud of this gene in an invisible carrier-gas, first over Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley, and then other of California’s Cabernet-famous regions.

Dry Creek Valley is where Camellia Cellars – where today’s mission was to take me – happens to be. With any luck, I would save Camellia, the Dry Creek Valley and Cabernet Sauvignon!

Suddenly an explosion rocks the helicopter and I am blown out of the open door and find myself free falling toward the neat vineyard rows below. Without losing my cool, I pull the ripcord on my parachute (good thing I had the foresight to wear one under my tuxedo before leaving Central Command earlier this morning) and float gently to the ground.

Unfortunately, a sudden gust of wind ruins what would have been a pristine landing, and blows me toward a tree.

(blackness)

I wake to find myself in a hospital bed and I realize I am not alone in the room. Standing by the bed is Agent White and two people that I slowly come to recognize from briefing photos I had studied earlier in the day; Camellia winemaker, Bruce Snyder, and grower, Chris Lewand, are here with a bottle of their Cabernet Sauvignon in hand. Smiles are splashed across all three faces.

Agent White says, “You dummy. The bottle shop called me. They told me that you bumped a wine display and caused an avalanche of bottles to cascade down on your head. You’re lucky you got off with just a few bumps and bruises.”

“The way you were carrying on, it sounds like you were having some interesting dreams,” Bruce adds.

I look up at them, laugh nervously, and, pointing at the wine bottle, say, “I hope you brought a corkscrew. I have to see if I saved Cabernet!”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Lencioni Vineyard, where the juice for today’s wine came from, can be seen in this satellite photo.