2006 Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve Cabernet Franc

Mission Codename: Vive le Roi

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Clos du Bois and secure a winery-only exclusive wine for our Operatives around the world

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Clos du Bois

Wine Subject: 2006 Sonoma Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Franc

Winemaker: Erik Olsen

Backgrounder: Cabernet Franc is one of Agent Red’s favorite red varietals. Perhaps this is because its flavors are often rich, layered, complex and elegant. Or, perhaps he loves Cabernet Franc so much because it pairs so exceptionally well with so many different foods. Agent Red recently returned to Clos du Bois winery, where his mole there has been providing a trickle of winery-exclusive, limited-production wines that are unavailable to the general wine drinking populace. Read Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and gorgeous ruby red, the wine maintains deep concentration of color, right out to the very edge of the wine. There, a fine pink line shimmers in the light as the wine is swirled. On settling, skinny legs dash down the glass.

Smell – Blackfruit is the obvious leader on the nose, with vibrant blackberry, plum, and blueberry. These intermingle with dark, dried flower petals, and dark cherry. Underneath, soft and salty dried meats, subtle green chili pepper and hints of oak and Christmas spice peer out.

Feel – Tender and velvet smooth on entry. Then, gradually, the wine goes softly dry as integrated tannins easy their way inward from the edges of the palate.

Taste – In fun juxtaposition to the dark nose of the wine, the palate exudes redness, with raspberry, young strawberry, dried red rose petals and dark cherry. Also present are soft brown spices, dark chocolate and a hint of freshly cracked black pepper

Finish – Long and flavorful, with red fruit and a minerality that comes from the subtle black pepper flavor

Conclusion – We are proud to be able to reach into the private reserves of our featured wineries. Today’s Reserve Cabernet Franc is a fantastic wine that isn’t available in stores – just right here, today only! As many of our Operatives know, Cab Franc is my favorite single-varietal red. To me, great Franc shows the best balance, flavor and meal-friendliness. Today’s wine is quite compelling, with its black nose and red palate in balanced opposition to one another. Overall, the wine is balanced, delicious and fun to drink. Enjoy it on its own, or with almost anything. I found a fresh pesto lasagna to be a great fit.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Erik Olsen

DATE OF BIRTH: June 1965

PLACE OF BIRTH: San Francisco, California

WINE EDUCATION: BS Fermentation Science from UC Davis; MS Food Science from Cornell University; MBA from University of Washington

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 2003 – present : Clos du Bois ; 1993-2003 : Chateau Ste. Michelle; 1990 – 1993: Simi

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: My philosophy is to create wines that not only represent the best each varietal has to offer, but also the best representation of the place where the grapes come from. I believe in producing delicious wines that are approachable, elegant and always invite a second glass, or a second bottle.

SIGNATURE VARIETALS: Chardonnay and Cabernet

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: 2005 Calcaire Chardonnay winning the Sonoma Harvest Fair Grand Sweepstakes. It the academy awards of wine for us in Sonoma County.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Number One-ranked white wine on the 2001 Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of the Year for the 1999 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (93 points).

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “I like the creativity and seasonality of wine,” Erik says. “I enjoy a challenge and the fact that every year is different. It’s also inspiring to work with passionate people who come together, always trying to make something better.”

“I pinch myself everyday as I drive to work, because not only is Sonoma County an unbelievably beautiful place, the vineyards here provide everything you could ever want to make distinctive and delicious wines”.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Erik. We are thrilled to be showing your 06 Sonoma Reserve Alexander Valley Old Vine Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ERIK OLSEN: Of course!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ERIK: I was only 18, but I landed a crush job back at a very small Zinfandel producer in the Foothills of Amador County. I did a lot of backbreaking work dumping grapes, running the press, and digging out fermentors. It was very satisfying to work hard and contribute to the creation of a beautiful wine. Winemaking still seems like magic to me.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

ERIK: Every part of my background has been important in developing how I approach winemaking. UC Davis was the foundation, but I always looked to work at wineries where I could learn and those that focused on always striving for higher quality.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

ERIK: My philosophy is to create wines that not only represent the best each varietal has to offer, but also the best representation of the place where the grapes come from. I believe in producing delicious wines that are approachable, elegant and always invite a second glass, or a second bottle.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ERIK: I’ve always believed my winemaking style is influenced in some way by every wine I’ve ever tasted. My collective wine tasting experience is what I look to in approaching a new wine. There have been some notable winemakers who taught me a lot about style and quality and had a major influence on my winemaking.

Ernie Loosen (Dr. Loosen- Germany) was very influential in my approach to making Riesling as together we create the Eroica Riesling program in Washington.

Mike Januik who I worked for at Chateau Ste. Michelle in making flavorful, soft, and approachable red wines.

Zelma Long (Simi) for a quality approach in making barrel-fermented Chardonnay.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

ERIK: I have made wine nearly every year since 1983.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ERIK: I make wine for people looking for a great bottle of wine that consistently delivers exceptional value. I’m thrilled to make one of the most popular Chardonnays in the country, as well as very small lots that show off some of the little niche varietals and vineyards we have at Clos du Bois. Of course, I love all my wines and drink them at home often, so I also make wines for myself.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

ERIK: This region has the rare combination of climate and soil type that is ideal for flavor development of wine grapes. The cool evenings and warm days that are characteristic of Alexander Valley, preserve the freshness and acidity of the grapes, but also allow for ideal ripening and flavors development. The soil types found throughout the valley provide the nutrients, and water-holding capacity that allow wine grapes to thrive. With these perfect conditions, the dedicated and quality-focused growers of this area produce wine grapes that are truly exceptional in quality.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

ERIK: There is no one best path to becoming a successful winemaker.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ERIK: We have been working on trial blends of our 2008 red reserve wines including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah, Malbec, and Carignane.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

ERIK: The 2006 Cabernet Franc has a deep dark color, aromas of ripe blackberry, bright Bing cherry, and hints of leafiness and spicy oak. The wine is richer and more concentrated then a typical Cabernet Franc. The wine is full bodied with a velvety texture, flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate, and roasted espresso.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ERIK: Grilled Tri Tip and scalloped potatoes

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

ERIK: I’m a first-generation American.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

ERIK: There’s always a Clos du Bois North Coast Chardonnay in my fridge.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

ERIK: Be comfortable with what you like. Don’t get hung up on what others think about a wine you enjoy. If you like it, then it’s a good wine. Most importantly, experiment with wines. Our Chardonnay and Cabernet are both very popular, but we have a whole host of other varietals ranging from Pinot Grigio and Riesling to Zinfandel and Shiraz. Trying something new might just introduce you to a new favorite wine.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

ERIK: Trimbach -Clos Sainte Hune Riesling from Alsace.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

ERIK: Thank you for featuring this wine. We’re proud of it and hope you enjoy it.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Clos du Bois winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Fess Parker Winery Ashley’s Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: His Legacy

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Fess Parker Winery, procure another stunning Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir for our Fess-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fess Parker Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 “Ashley’s” Pinot Noir Sta Rita Hills

Winemaker: Blair Fox

Backgrounder: The Wine Spies have been featuring some really incredible Pinot Noir of late, but we are quite taken by Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir – so we sent Agent Red back to Fess Parker Winery, to retrieve their award-winning Ashley’s Pinot.

California’s Central Coast region, and specifically Santa Barbara and San Luis Obisbo County has become one of the state’s premier regions for Pinot Noir. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in Pinot of exceptional purity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkly colored with a purple-ruby hue that gets more vibrant on the edges, this wine is opaque and mysterious.

Smell – The bouquet is full of flowers, with fresh roses, wildflowers and violets, with red fruits, liquid mineral and smoky sweet vanilla oak notes.

Feel – The palate is intensely full, rich and silky round, a classic Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir with lush texture and vibrant flavors.

Taste – The mouth starts with black plum, boysenberry and cherry. This highlights the Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir character perfectly, but also gives some real Burgundy-like flavors and earthy notes. This wine tastes alive and vibrant.

Finish – Wonderfully lengthy with lots of lingering fruit, earth, mineral and quality sweet French oak vanilla and smoky goodness, leaving a fantastic Pinot aftertaste.

Conclusion – This wine will really go over well with fan of Pinot Noir that comes from just about anywhere. One moment, you might think you are enjoying a Burgundy. the next minute, a California. This wine really rings true to its terroir in the Sta. Rita Hills, delivering a drinking experience that is unique to the region. Don’t miss this Pinot, especially from this amazing vintage.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Blair Fox

DATE OF BIRTH: 10/74

PLACE OF BIRTH: Santa Barbara, CA

WINE EDUCATION: B.S. Viticulture and Enology, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Enologist for Fess Parker Winery ‘99, Winemaker Sunstone Winery 99-02, Consultant winemaker fess Parker Winery 02, Vintage Winemaker- Haselgrove Winery- McLaren Vale South Australia 03, Associate Winemaker in charge of the Rhone Varietal programs at Fess Parker 03-05, Head Winemaker for Fess Parker Winery 05-present

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I spend a lot of time in the vineyard because I feel that wines are truly made in the vineyard. I try to show the different qualities of the different vineyards and create wines with distinct varietal character.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: I have always been particularly fond of Syrah.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Travelling throughout the Rhone Valley in France and tasting some of the best examples of Syrah and other Rhone varietals the world has to offer.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: I feel privileged to work with some of the best vineyards and fruit in Santa Barbara County.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Blair. We are thrilled to be showing your 2007 Ashley’s Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BLAIR: Thank you for showing my wine today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BLAIR: My parents were always traveling the globe and bringing home wines to be drunk around the dinner table. I was planning on going to medical school to become a doctor but was lured into the Viticulture and Enology program at UC Davis.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

BLAIR: I really enjoyed the viticulture side of the program, but then fell in love with the enology courses and being able to see the conversion of grapes to a final wine.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

BLAIR: I feel the best wines are made in the vineyard. You have to be diligent with your vineyard practices to grow grapes worthy of making great wine. It is all about fruit quality, canopy management and managing your yields to produce the most exciting wines possible.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BLAIR: I am impressed by all great wines made around the world. I have gained experience making wines in two different hemispheres and like a sponge have absorbed as much knowledge from every winemaker I have ever worked with.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

BLAIR: This will be my 14th vintage.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BLAIR: I make wines to be enjoyed by all. At Fess Parker Winery we specialize in the production of Burgundian and Rhone Varietal wines. I create these wines to be balanced with intense fruit character, rich mouthfeel and beautiful aromatics.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Santa Barbara so special?

BLAIR: Santa Barbara is a very unique region. We have very cool areas such as the Santa Rita Hills, which is the ultimate place to grow high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and we have the more interior Santa Ynez Valley where some of the most exciting Rhone varietals in the world are grown.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BLAIR: We are in the middle of racking and blending a lot of our wines right now. I taste every barrel for quality and defects to make sure only the best wines are produced.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

BLAIR: It is our 2007 Ashley’s Pinot Noir sourced entirely from the cool, Santa Rita Hills AVA in Santa Barbara County. This vineyard was planted over 10 years ago and produced an average of less than 2 tons per acre in 2007. Six different clones of Pinot Noir were hand-picked, hand-sorted, fermented in small tanks, basket pressed and aged in French Oak for sixteen months before being bottled.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BLAIR: Blackened Salmon

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

BLAIR: I am very casual about my approach to wine. I feel wines are best drunk with food, but are also great as an aperitif or after dinner. I feel you should drink what you enjoy regardless of price or region. It is fun to be adventurous with wine and see what else is out there.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

BLAIR: I love Syrah and would choose something like an old Grange from Penfolds or Cote Rotie from the Northern Rhone.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

BLAIR: Thanks!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fess Parker Winery in Santa Barbara’s famous Foxen Canyon can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay Reserve

Mission Codename: The passion shines through

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friends at Robert Mondavi Winery and retrieve thier delicious Chardonnay Reserve.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Robert Mondavi Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Chardonnay Reserve

Winemaker: Genevieve Janssens

Backgrounder: Chardonnay is arguably the greatest of all white grape varietals, showing its influence in the legendary sparkling wines of Champagne, the great whites of Burgundy and of course its expression as ’the’ white wine of California. Chardonnay represents over 50% of the planted white grapes in California with nearly 100,000 acres planted. With such a great number of wines made from this grape, it stands to reason that finding wines of immense quality would be hard, but look no further. In this wine, we have found perhaps the ideal expression of the California Chardonnay.

In 1966, Robert Mondavi was a man with a mission. Mondavi had the vision to create the first major post-prohibition winery in the United Stated. His dream of crafting the best wines in the world has been realized and today the winery is recognized as a global leader in fine wine. Mondavi’s exclusive wines, which are usually only available at the winery itself, are extraordinary.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Pale golden yellow with golden and greenish hues that shine through this wine’s glistening clear core. The color fades gracefully at the edge and when swirled, slow fat legs descend to the springy wine below and settles quickly hinting at is weight.

Smell – Fresh and bright aromas of green and stone fruit including green apple and fresh fig. A touch of restrained oak reveals itself with vanilla creme and toast notes along with hints of white flower and spice.

Feel – Full-bodied with excellent wight on the palate, this dry wine balances its lively and crisp acidity and minerality perfectly.

Taste – Abundant flavors of the fruit found on the nose with the apple almost reminiscent of spiced baked apple. Add to this well integrated vanilla, oak, toast and spice.

Finish – Fresh and long with notes of green apple, spice and toast with lingering vanilla sweetness that clings to the palate.

Conclusion – The 2006 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay Reserve is a delicious example of a balanced California Chardonnay. Not a butter-ball or oak bomb, but not too restrained either – lovely balance that makes this wine a great food wine. We paired this wine with grilled Branzino (Mediterranean sea-bass).

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER_

SUBJECT: Genevieve Janssens

DATE OF BIRTH: October 1950

PLACE OF BIRTH: Oujda, Morocco

WINE EDUCATION: Diploma in Enology – Bordeaux, France

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 1978 – 1979 Robert Mondavi Winery Lab Enologist, 1989 – 1997 Director of Production Opus One, 1997 – current Director of Winemaking Robert Mondavi Winery

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Making wine in a more natural way; respecting the sense of origin. Thriving for the best.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Being mentored by Mr. Mondavi and following his philosophy.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Be passionate about making wine.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Genevieve. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Chardonnay Reserve today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

GENEVIEVE: Thank you for having me. It’s a pleasure to discuss this special wine.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

GENEVIEVE: Following my father’s footsteps. He was a grape grower and a winemaker – making wine with passion.

WHITE: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

GENEVIEVE: I have learned through my whole career – I’m still learning.

WHITE: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

GENEVIEVE: I am laisser-faire by nature. I believe in the least amount of interference in winemaking and always letting the terroir sing.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

GENEVIEVE: Cabernet Sauvignon and Mr. Mondavi influenced me the most. I find them both inspiring.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

GENEVIEVE: 40 years

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

GENEVIEVE: I am inspired by Mother Nature and Mr. Mondavi always pairing food with wine. Wine must be a companion of every meal.

WHITE: Tell me, what makes the Carneros region so special?

GENEVIEVE: Carneros is located close to the ocean and receives the breeze in the morning with nice fog so the fruit is bathed in a beautiful blanket.

WHITE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

GENEVIEVE: Follow your passion. Mr. Mondavi said if you find a job you love you never work a day in your life.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

GENEVIEVE: We are working on blends for the 2009 Chardonnay Reserve and beginning our vineyard visits to start assessing what is in store for the 2010 vintage. It is a beautiful day in Napa Valley that makes you want to spend all your time in the vineyards.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

GENEVIEVE: The 2006 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Reserve is sourced from three vineyards in Carneros. Instead of clones, the vineyards were planted using mass selection as the growers sought concentration over yield. When it was felt that the various elements were at an optimum, the vineyards were harvested and pressed as whole clusters. The resulting juice, after separating out the higher pressings, was barreled for fermentation using 45% new French oak in barrels that promote the fruit concentration. After partial malo-lactic fermentation, the wine was aged on the lees, Sur Lie, for nine months prior to bottling. Our wine style continues the fashion set by Robert Mondavi to accompany food as part of a fine dining experience.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

GENEVIEVE: Poached Halibut with grilled asparagus and Yukon gold potatoes

WHITE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

GENEVIEVE: My son, Georges, is starting a World Wine charity tour in January that will last 9 months.

WHITE: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

GENEVIEVE: Any wine which matches the meal.

WHITE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

GENEVIEVE: With a very natural way. Our wines are made to be enjoyed with friends and good food. Wine is part of a meal and should not be seen as a mysterious beverage. Simplicity is the essence when approaching wines.

WHITE: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

GENEVIEVE: Cabernet Sauvignon and Fume Blanc

WHITE: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

GENEVIEVE: I think you have done a pretty good job to understand the wine you are going to promote.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

GENEVIEVE: Thank you.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Bartholomew Park Winery Estate Zinfandel

Mission Codename: El Barto

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Bartholomew Park Winery in Sonoma, California. There procure their latest Estate Zinfandel for our Zin-loving Operativees

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Bartholomew Park Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Estate Zinfandel

Winemaker: Keith Emerson

Associate Winemaker: Jessica Koga

Backgrounder: The Wine Spies have been featuring some incredible wines of late, but requests have been pouring in for a fantastic Sonoma Zinfandel. For today’s wine, we sent Agent Red to Sonoma County to discover the best example he could find. He landed at the gorgeous estate property of Bartholomew Park Winery. Read Red’s notes and his mission report below to find out more about today’s great Sonoma County Zin – from an old friend, winemaker Keith Emerson, of Gundlach Bundschu fame.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – This wine has a jewelled garnet color throughout, with a thin clear rim and medium fast legs

Smell – Black cherry, black raspberry, pomegranate, raisin and spice jump out of the glass. These are accompanied by more subtle notes of oak and brown spice.

Feel – Smooth and light up front, then it pops in the mouth with a bright acidity, juiciness and easy tannins.

Taste – Plump, juicy red and black fruits explode immediately on the palate, followed by the raisin, cinnamon and clove and faint peppery undertones.

Finish – Nicely balanced with acid and tannins in harmony, making for a very smooth finish, with the flavors of black cherry, blackberry and cinnamon lingering long after the last sip.

Conclusion – We Wine Spies have always been big fans of Keith Emerson’s winemaking, and todays wine is an interesting and flavorful compliment to his usually bolder style. This wine is a softer and somewhat lighter styled wine than we are used to from Keith, and we love the juxtaposition. With great balance of acid, tannins and fruit, this wine is a fresh, plump, easy drinking yet somewhat complex Zin. This wine would go beautifully with pork or lamb that are crusted with herbs or Moroccan spices.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Keith Emerson

WINE EDUCATION: University of California at Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Cakebread Cellars before joining Gundlach Bundschu. In 2004, worked a harvest at Palliser Estate in Martinborough, New Zealand

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “My goal as a winemaker is to tell the story of each vineyard site”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

KEITH: The zinfandel from Bartholomew Park is grown on the site of the very first zinfandel vineyard in California. Back in 1856, Agoston Haraszthy planted the zinfandel when he founded Buena Vista, California’s oldest winery. Over 100 years later, Frank Bartholomew sold the original Buena Vista winery but kept the original vineyard and property for his home, and that is the estate vineyard at Bartholomew Park today. The vineyard was completely replanted in 1997, and received CCOF organic certification in 2005.

The site is relatively cool with well-drained soils, which give us zinfandel that is distinctively elegant. It has deep, rich color, aromas and flavors of dark red cherry and wild raspberry with smooth tannins and lots of cocoa and berry on the finish. It is balanced and medium weight, so this isn’t a blockbuster style zin, it can actually pair with more subtle flavors than you might think of for zin.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KEITH: Grilled pork loin, with some kind of fruit compote, like cherry or plum.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Bartholomew Parke vineyards so special?

KEITH: This specific spot is incredibly special, not only for the legacy of being site of the first vinifera vineyard in CA, but for the legacy of great wines that have been grown on this spot. Today, the vineyard is meticulously hand farmed and the wines hand made to showcase the unique character of the spot.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KEITH: Bartholomew Park is like a little local secret gem. Since the wines are only available at the winery, not many people outside Sonoma even know that it is here, but ask a local where they like to take friends and guests and they will likely tell you Bartholomew Park. The property is breathtaking, the visit offers a fascinating look at the history of wine and culture in our valley, and of course the wines are very special. The zinfandel is our primary focus, at 1400 cases it is still quite limited, but the whole winery only produces 3,000 – 5,000 total cases each year. So hopefully once your spies have discovered a few bottles, they’ll seek out our little hideout in Sonoma and pay us a visit.

RED: I love the site, Keith. Very peaceful, and the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine after a covert mission. Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Gundlach-Bundschu winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Renteria Salva Tierra Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Make a wish

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Renteria and capture an allottment of their 2006 Salva Tierra Cabernet Sauvignon, a highly prized wine from the world-famous Shooting Star vineyard

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Renteria

Wine Subject: 2006 Salva Tierra Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Karen Culler

Backgrounder: Napa Valley is revered worldwide as the ultimate area in which to produce fine Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 vintage has produced some remarkable examples and we were lucky to get our spy-hands on today’s fine offering from our friends at Renteria. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and winemaker interview, below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful black cherry-colored, mostly opaque with slow moving, wine-stained tears.

Smell – Subtle nose of black raspberry, cassis, blackberry, dried roses, cardamom, black cherry, blueberry, red licorice and chocolate.

Feel – Silky feel overall with a juiciness fills the mouth. After a few moments, light tannins ease their way in, adding a soft dryness across the palate and at the gumline.

Taste – Rich cherry and cassis fill the mouth initially, followed by juicy black raspberry, cinnamon, chocolate, iron and black tea.

Finish – The blackberry, cassis, blueberry and chocolate linger for a long time, while the acid and tannins balance each other for a well-rounded finish that lasts and lasts.

Conclusion – This is a flavorful, silky wine that would be wonderful to share over a platter of cheeses, salami, nuts and dried fruit. Loads of great fruit flows from this wine and we loved its mouth-filling qualities and subtle but complex aromas. This wine is ready to drink now, and will easily accompany most foods without overpowering.

Mission Report:

Presented for your reading enjoyment, what follows is our original mission to Renteria:

With harvest nearing, I was only able to observe the Renteria family at work in their estate vineyards. This time of year, it is difficult to have a sit-down with most winemakers. Rather than go undercover using an assumed identity to gather intel, I decided to visit the winery to learn what I could from other on-site staffers.

My contact at the winery gave me a leisurely tour, detailing for me the rich history of the Renteria family and their love of growing the grapes that make up some of the finest wines in the world.

The family itself now owns 53 acres of vineyards in Napa and is planting 27 more. In 1997 they launched their own Renteria label and today produce 1,800 cases annually of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

While taking our tour, Oscar Renteria, who now runs the family business, gave a quick wave and a smile. As we watched him speaking animatedly with his workers, it was obvious that this was a man who was passionate about his business and about wine.

The site where the family is building its winery and wine caves is stunningly beautiful. While construction only just began this summer, it is clear that this will be a wonderful destination for wine lovers.

A trip to the makeshift tasting room after our tour was a perfect way to retreat from the heat of the Napa summer afternoon. Inside I learned more about the family history and about the love that ties this particular winemaking family to each other and to the earth that they farm.

With the help of consulting winemaker, the famous Karen Culler, Renteria is producing some fantastic wines. Of particular note to me was their Knittel Vineyard Pinot Noir, a great Pinot that is simultaneously a classic example and a tasty interpretation, born of a rich winemaking history, modern growing and production techniques, and, oh yeah, lots of love.

Winery Background Check:

While it is not uncommon to find tenth-generation winemakers throughout Europe, America is too young a country for this to be possible.

Today in this country, there are a small handful winemakers whose families are becoming multi-generational artisan winemakers.

45 years ago, a young Salvador Renteria arrived in California from Mexico. He began work as a field laborer and worked his way quickly to vineyard supervisor. After years spent developing his own planting techniques, he got the attention of major wine producers like Beaulieu Vineyards, Clos Pegase, Cuvaison and Silverado – and went to work planning and planting these now famous vineyards.

Salvador went on to found his own vineyard management company where he put his love of the business to work as he managed some of the largest and most successful vineyards in the Napa Valley.

Salvador’s son, Oscar, grew up in the vineyards alongside his father, learning the family busniess from top to bottom. In 1993, Oscar took over management of the company and carried forth the traditions and the love of wine production that his father imbued him with. Working with select vineyards in Napa Valley and Sonoma’s Russian River, Renteria still grows world renowned grapes for clients that include William Selyem, Robert Mondavi Winery, Caymus, Rombauer and Duckhorn. By combining practical, generational field knowledge with innovative trials and experimentation, the Renteria family has found a balance which allows them to grow the finest grapes possible.

Winemaker Profile:

Karen Culler started her winemaking career as a child, making homemade wine with her father and grandfather in Ohio. Her job was to destem the clusters by hand.

Many years later she attended the University of California at Davis to get her Master’s Degree in Viticulture and Enology (grapes and wine). After graduating from UC Davis in 1984, she started a 6 month internship at Robert Mondavi Winery in their Research Department. Six months turned into two years and when Robert Mondavi purchased Vichon Winery, Karen joined Vichon as Assistant Winemaker in 1986. In 1989, she became Winemaker.

In 1996 started her own label, Culler Wines, and began producing her well respected wines with the harvest of 1997. She also consults as winemaker to various other wineries in Napa Valley, such as Renteria, Wolf Family Vineyards, Ladera, and Rivera.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The Knittel vineyard is located in a prime site, south of Highway 12 on Los Carneros Road on the Napa side of Carneros. An experimental vineyard, it was planted by Renteria Vineyard Management in 1997. It has all of the aspects of a perfect Pinot Noir vineyard: planted on an east facing, gentle hillside on clay soils in a cool microclimate to five different Pinot Noir clones. The different clones not only add complexity but also impart various sensory components to the wine. Clone 115 is the largest block and adds depth and tannin structure. The Dijon clones 667 and 777 give the wine’s aroma the higher fruit tones, while the complexity and “spice” flavors come from the California selections, Calera and Swan.

The approximate location of Renteria’s Carneros Knittle Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

The location of the Renteria winery can be seen in this satellite photo

2006 Vignobles Dornier Clos des Vins d’Amour 1+1 = 3 Côtes du Roussillon Villages

Mission Codename: Only love can make 1 + 1 = 3

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Find a perfect wine for Mother’s Day

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Vignobles Dornier

Wine Subject: 2006 Clos des Vins d’Amour 1+1 = 3

Backgrounder:

The Côtes du Roussillon Villages is home to many fresh and exciting wines of great value as are many of the wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon. This region, located just south of the Corbieres region produces exclusively red wines unlike the Côtes du Roussillon (further south) that has Whites, Reds and Rose. These wines must contain at least three of the following Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre and a few others; opf which no two can exceed 90% of the blend.

Today’s selection is a perfectly balanced blend of old vine Carignan, Grenache Noir and Syrah.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Brilliant dark garnet purple with bright ruby red reflections through its clear core. Along the edges, the color lightens to garnet with violet hues and when swirled, tightly spaced medium thick legs race down tot he wine below and a secondary ring of slow tears hangs on.

Smell – Medium bold in intensity, this wine’s bright and fresh aromas of red and black fruit including red and black cherry and plum integrate well with spice and soft pepper notes.

Feel – The attach of this wine is soft and plush initially and with a slight kick of spice on the tip and edge of the tongue. Fine broad tannins and balanced acidity gives this wine a pleasant mouth-coating quality without being to aggressive.

Taste – Rich and plump with generous red fruit including cherry and plum with characteristic spice, pepper and a earthy and brambly smokiness.

Finish – Long and clean with this wine’s lovely fruit fading gently and then leaves its balanced texture and mouth-coating tannins and acid gripping the palate and inviting another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Vignobles Dornier Clos des Vins d’Amour 1+1 = 3 Côtes du Roussillon Villages is a delicious wine with exceptional balance and is very approachable. Soft and pretty with finesse, a lovely blend that is fresh and light (unlike many New-World Syrah blends) making this wine a perfect red for enjoying at a lingering brunch or lunch.

Mission Report:

After our recent visit to France we were happy to have met the French families of some close friends I have here. This of course gives the double benefit of being able to visit great off the beat path places while we traveled but also the joy of having our French friends visit us here in the United States.

Just recently we had a great visit by one of our new friends. Originally from northeastern France, these covert operatives now lived in the southwest, along the Mediterranean coast. While visiting Southern California we had the joy of take a short flight in the spy plane (a Cessna R182) up and over the vineyards of Santa Ynez just after bud-break. It was one of those perfect Southern California days that perhaps is only topped by a perfect day in the outhwest of France.

Not to be outdone, (and after the flight), we exchanged our impressions of the flight and a couple bottles. I had brought a bottle of California’s classic, an fantastic Santa Barbara Pinot Noir (soon to be featured, this week in fact), and they had brought today’s featured selection from Vignobles Dornier as representative of the Languedoc-Roussillon and specifically the Côtes du Roussillon Villages.

While the wines were completely different in style, tradition, varietals and just about everything else, the one thing they had in common was the fact that there is no better way to toast good friends and share the good life than with a lovely bottle of wine.

A votre santé

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Vignobles Dornier in the Languedoc-Roussillon can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Kelley & Young Wines Nuits de Young

Mission Codename: Not your Father’s wine

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: In time for Mother’s Day, return to Kelley & Young Winery, and secure an exclusive allotment of their unique 2008 Nuits de Young, a rosé fit for a queen

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Kelley & Young Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Nuits de Young rosé

Winemaker: Jim Young

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Like beautiful raspberry juice, this wine shows gorgeous red hues, right out its fine pink edges. The wine has a slow-moving surface, giving it a dense and weighty look. When it settles, tightly-packed columns of slow-moving tears make their way down the glass.

Smell – Ripe strawberry, soft candy apple and delicate dried red flower petals. These are followed by a hint of fresh herbs. As the wine warms slightly, juicy red raspberry shows up, penetrating deeply into your nose.

Feel – Velvet smooth, soft and round with a pronounced mid-palate plushness that makes the wine a joy to roll all around in your mouth. After swallowing, a very subtle dryness slowly eases its way across the palate.

Taste – Strawberry leads the way, accompanied by black cherry (a surprise, given the lighter color of the wine), a subtle hint of brown spice and an easy minerality.

Finish – Finishes juicy and flavorful, then slightly dry as a soft and chalky mineral flavor appears.

Conclusion – Be very careful with this delicious wine, for it invites sip after fabulous sip. This is an extremely easy wine to drink and, since the alcohol is relatively low, I found myself enjoying more than one big glass for this review. As the weather warms, this is a perfect afternoon aperitif. It also plays well with lighter foods, such as a fantastic cheese and fruit plate. Try the wine at different temperatures for a widely varied drinking experience. If you are looking for a delicious rosé that will be certain to impress Mom, this wine gets our heartiest recommendation. Just don’t forget to snap some up for yourself, as well!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jim Young

WINE EDUCATION: In 1975 I graduated from the University of California at Davis with a Bachelors of Science degree in Viticulture. While at Davis, I also took most of the Enology classes that were offered.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: After graduating from Davis I returned to my family’s vineyard operation in Alexander Valley. I currently oversee 320 acres and 12 different varietals of wine grapes. I have been a home winemaker since the beginning. My wife Kathleen and I began our Kelley & Young wine production in 2005.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Most of the wines quality and character comes from the vineyard. We try to grow our vines in such a way to help us create wines with balance and grace.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: We believe that a balanced vine makes the best wine.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2005 Sauvignon Blanc was released in September of 2007

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW AGENT RED: Greetings, Jim. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 Nuits de Young today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JIM: Thanks, Agent Red. It’s a pleasure to be here.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JIM: My inspiration for wine came from being a grape grower for most of my life. We were trying to grow the best grapes and that really turned into trying to grow the best wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JIM: I really don’t think that there was any one winemaker that influenced my style. The style really begins in the vineyard. The style comes from the land and climate where they are grown, what people refer to as the terroir. We try to take that and produce a wine that is balanced, harmonious and with full fruit flavor. Something that is full and wonderful in your mouth.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JIM: I make wines that we like to drink. Wines that are well balanced, not too tart, not too tannic, etc.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JIM: The 2008 Nuits de Young is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It is made in a rose’ style but is a deep garnet color. It is grown on our family’s estate in Alexander Valley. The grapes are sent direct to press and allowed to sit on the skins to pick up flavor and color but are not fermented on the skins. The juice was fermented in stainless steel and spent 3 months in neutral French oak barrels. We do not put the wine through malolactic fermentation so as to preserve the natural acidity in the wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JIM: The fruitiness of this wine makes it a natural with roasted meats like pork or fowl. We especially like it with meats that are paired with fruits; pork and roasted apples or fruit chutney, turkey and cranberries, but it is also amazing with cheeses, especially soft ripe cheeses or even fruit desserts. We find it is a wine that could be used instead of a pinot noir, in fact the fruit flavors are similar to many pinots and stand up to the stronger flavors of meats.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

JIM: The Alexander Valley is well known as a Bordeaux varietals region. I believe this is because we receive enough heat to fully ripen these varietals, and we still have the cool evenings to help preserve the grape’s acidity. We also have a wealth of soil types and terrain to grow these varietals to their best potential. What makes it special? The soil and the climate.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JIM: In the vineyards we’re keeping a watchful eye on the thermometer to make sure the temperatures don’t drop below freezing. This could damage the vines and this year’s crop. We’re also beginning shoot thinning of the new growth to promote a good balance between crop and vine growth for the season. In the cellar it’s a fairly hectic time. We’re making final adjustments to the wines in preparation for bottling. We’re very excited as we prepare to bottle a new wine to our line-up, our 2008 Zinfandel.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JIM: Approach all wines with an open mind. Wine is a food and comes from many different regions and is made in many different ways. Trust your own palate and enjoy the many wines available.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

2005 Truchard Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Round One: Carneros v. Chambertin

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Raid the Pinot Noir library at Truchard Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Truchard Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Carneros (Napa Valley) Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Sal De Ianni

Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here. Schug Winery is a Wine Spies favorite and we are proud to bring you today’s very special wine. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic Pinot Noir

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Crystal clear deep ruby red with darker orangish and brink hues through its core and along its edges that demonstrate this wine’s well developed character. When swirled, slow randomly-spaced thin legs cling to the edge of the glass.

Smell – Rich and aromatic rhubarb and spiced red fruit including red plum and wild raspberry are complexly layered over earthy mineral notes, a touch of funky mushroom, savory spice, black team and a hint of smoke.

Feel – Full-bodied, smooth and dry, this plush wine is soft, rich and well developed with supple fine tannins and solid but balanced acidity that lingers into the finish.

Taste – Well integrated and developed with rich and plush ripe red fruit included raspberry, strawberry and red plum with sweet and herbaceous rhubarb and spice. Dark earthy minerality melds with black tea and spice notes to make this wine quite complex but still very approachable.

Finish – Clean and gently fading earthy and spiced fruit linger on the palate held together by a soft and supple but still well structured acid and tannin base.

Conclusion – The 2005 Truchard Vineyards Carneros (Napa Valley) Pinot Noir will instantly appeal to those who like their Pinot’s to be rich, complex and well developed. Not your typical cherry cola wanna-be, this Carneros classic is reminiscent of the fine Pinot found in the Cotes de Nuits and Cotes de Beaune in Burgundy. We paired this lovely wine with Tarragon herb crusted roast chicken.

Mission Report:

Truchard’s winemaker, Sal Iannna, was away on a secret mission of his own and we were unable to obtain an updated interview about today’s wine. For your reading pleasure, please enjoy our previous interview, in which Sal discusses his career and Truchard’s wonderful Chardonnay – a wine that we featured earlier this year.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Sal De Ianni

WINE EDUCATION: M.S. Fermentation Sciences, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 1994 Hess Collection, 1995-96 Cuvaison Estate Wines, 1998-present Truchard Vineyards

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Hands Off”

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “It’s all about balance”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1995

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Sal. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Carneros Estate Chardonnay today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SAL: Wine tasting classes at Northwestern University, Chicago restaurants

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SAL: Dr. Michael Peterkin (Margaret River, Australia) taught me the “hands off” approach.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

SAL: Tony & JoAnne Truchard (my bosses), myself, and anyone else who wants to try it.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

SAL: 100% Estate Carneros fruit, 30% new French Oak, 30% ML, lower alcohol, higher acid.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SAL: Grilled scallops, Corn Chowder

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Carneros region so special?

SAL: Foggy mornings, cooler days, breezing evenings… long hang time.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SAL: Racking the 2009 red wines, getting ready to bottle the 2009 Roussanne.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

SAL: Most importantly enjoy them with family and friends over a meal.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

SAL: The 2006 vintages wines are all tasting great right now!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Truchard winery, which can be visited by appointment only, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Swanson Vineyards Salon La Ti Da Estate Red Wine

Mission Codename: Whimsical name, Serious wine

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Swanson Vineyards, to secure a delicious wine that is not available outside of the winery

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Swanson Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2003 La Ti Da – Napa Valley Red Blend

Winemaker: Chris Phelps

Backgrounder:

Red blends are a favorite of many a Wine Spies Operative. Perhaps this is because a great blend is like a great All-star sports team, where the coach gets to choose from the best available players. In the case of today’s wine, Swanson’s winemaker was able to pick from the finest lot’s of their best wines. Today’s La Ti Da is a fantastic example of how a remarkable wine can be born of great blending – from the best vineyard sources.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – The deep ruby-colored wine gives way in the glass to lighter ruby hues and then a pinkish rim with skinny, medium-speed legs.

Smell – A lovely combination of stewed and fresh black fruits greet your nose, leading with boysenberry, black cherry, and raspberry with a touch of chocolate, ending with fig and mulling spice.

Feel – Light to medium-bodied, the silky feel of it throughout the mouth gives it an added smoothness and roundness. There is a juiciness to the wine, as well as light tannins which give the wine structure without being overly drying.

Taste – Flavors of fig, boysenberry, black currant and spice fill the mouth on the first sip, followed by soft chocolate and cedar.

Finish – Long, and lingering with mellow blackfruit, soft cedar and dark chocolate.

Conclusion – We here at Wine Spies HQ appreciate great red blends. When done right, they can be quite impressive. Today’s wine is well-balanced, easy-drinking and flavorful, and would be lovely all by itself! It would also be delicious with some hard cheeses, and light Italian fare like pizza, chicken parmigiana, or spaghetti and meatballs!

Mission Report:

Today, we are pleased to provide Agent Red’s recent interview with Chris Phelps, winemaker for Swanson Vineyards, when we featured Swanson’s Merlot:

AGENT RED: Greetings, Chris. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Oakville Merlot today. The wine is really fantastic. Thanks so much for the wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today. We are really impressed by your wines!

CHRIS PHELPS: I always appreciate hearing that, Agent Red. It’s a pleasure to go ‘covert’ with you today.

RED: Thanks, Chris. Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

CHRIS: Well, yes, but more cumulative experience than specific. I grew up in Livermore, CA, a stone’s throw from Cocannon Vinyeards. My parents made a barrel or two of Zin or Cab every year when I was a kid. They picked the grapes with friends, and I helped with crushing, racking, etc. when I was old enough. I found it fascinating that the wine quality could vary so much, depending upon variety, grape source and vintage.Wine was often on the family dinner table, so I was able to taste when I was a kid, and I liked it.

RED: So, winemaking was really in your blood. Tell me, where did you learn the most about winemaking?

CHRIS: I learn more about winemaking every day! There is so much nuance in winemaking, which consists of hundreds of details, some of which might seem insignificant, but can really affect the final product. I was fortunate to me mentored by many colleagues along my career path, starting with Mike Martini at Louis M. Martini in 1980. I graduated from UC Davis in Enology, then continued my education at the University of Bordeaux. Those years in academia, coupled with the key internships I did at Martini, Chappellet and in St. Emilion / Pmoerol as I cut my winemaking teeth, were very formative years.

RED: It sounds like it! What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

CHRIS: In a word, minimalist. If the fruit, at the time it is picked, is physiologically ripe and balanced, intervention through winemaking techniques is minimized. Speaking of red Bordeaux varieties, since we are tasting the 2005 Swanson Oakville Merlot today, I’m looking for perfectly ripe fruit, but avoiding super-high Brix levels, which lead to some of the very stylized wines produced today, which need huge doses of input by the winemaker. If the fruit is handled correctly, it is possible to coax the optimum extract out of the must, and produce a wine which honestly reflects the terroir from which it came. My job as a winemaker is precisely this: to form an honest interpretation of what a specific vineyard site in a specific vineyard is trying to tell me. I hope that makes sense to you…

RED: Your focus is on Merlot, and we applaud that. We are really happy to see Merlot doing so wonderfully. Tell me, what makes Merlot so unique?

CHRIS: So nice to preach to the choir when it comes to Merlot. Merlot is uniquely a ‘winemaker’s wine’. It suits my minimalist approach to winemaking perfectly. Grown in the right climate, in the right soil, with the correct conditions that dictate terroir for Merlot, it is one of the best varieties to work with. Color, aromatic expression of fruit, balanced acidity, silky, ripe tannins – the key attributes we are looking for – come very naturally to Merlot. Even grown under less-than-appropriate conditions, Merlot yields a decent, quaffable wine, and this is also the problem with Merlot, which is part of its uniqueness… there are a number of Merlots, from hot climates, with deep soils better suited to corn or tomatoes, which are not unpleasant, but have nothing to do with great Merlot. We know at Swanson that the clayey-loam soils in Oakville are optimum for this variety, and we take full advantage of this. When it comes to Merlot, terroir is everything. In Napa, there are sites on Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, in Oakville, in Carneros that are perfectly suited to the production of ultra-premium Merlot.

RED: And you happen to make your Merlot in one of them! What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

CHRIS: Jean-Claude Berrouet, winemaker for Ets. JP Moueix in Libourne, France. After being the winemaker for Petrus and a number of other Moueix properties on the Right Bank of Bordeaux for 44 years, he has ‘retired’, staying on in a consulting role for Petrus in Pomerol, and Dominus, here in Napa. During my 12 years as the first winemaker at Dominus, he had a significant influence upon my approach to winemaking.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

CHRIS: My first stint was 6 months in 1980 at Martini. I became a ‘winemaker ’ in 1984, when I joined the team at Dominus. I remained there for 12 years, before moving to Caymus for 7 years. I have been at Swanson for 6 years.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

CHRIS: Chuck Wagner at Caymus gently reminded me from time to time that I should not make wine for myself, and this was an important lesson. I don’t fixate on ‘who’ the wine is for, per se, but it does get factored into the overall picture. I am conscious of the fact that Clarke Swanson would like me to be producing wines that appeal to consumers, critics, bloggers, etc. At Swanson, as in my previous winemaking roles, I strive to make the absolutely best wine possible, given the fruit sources and other resources I am given to work with. I’m sure this sounds cliche, but it always seems to work out. The wines are not just for the critics, not just for the consumers, not just for me. Wine should be universal. We’ll need to sit down and discuss this question more over another bottle of Merlot…

RED: Any time. It would be a great pleasure. Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

CHRIS: As I am reminded every time I return to the Valley after being away (I’m sending these notes from Chicago, where I am spending 3 days helping promote Swanson wines), Napa Valley is a place of unique natural beauty. And it is still the Mecca for ultra-premium domestic winegrowing.

RED: Nice to hear someone else call Napa ‘Mecca’. What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

CHRIS: Seek a mentor or mentors who are willing to share what they know. Plan on internships in different international wine regions. Study, sure, but not to the exclusion of lots of practical experience. You must be willing to get your hands dirty.

RED: And stained purple. What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

CHRIS: 2009 is a critical year for winemakers to help with promotion. We’ve completed bottling for the year, and are fine-tuning 2008 blends. I’m taking advantage of the fact that we are ahead of normal schedule in the winery to spend a little more time on the road, sharing the wines with consumers and trade. All wineries are affected by the domestic financial situation, but folks enjoy meeting the winemaker, so I am happy to help out when I can.

RED: Ahead of schedule. I wonder what that’s like. Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

CHRIS: The 2005 vintage was characterized by a very generous fruit set in our blocks of Merlot, so we were able to select the very best 1 or 2 clusters on every shoot, and drop the rest on the ground, and believe me, the ground was covered with green fruit! Producers who did not want to look very seriously at crop level, and had too much fruit on the vine, had difficulty getting it ripe, since it was not an overly warm growing season. I believe the longer, cooler seasons like we saw in 2005 in Napa produce the best red wines, whereas the hot, short seasons in Bordeaux are generally better for achieving optimum fruit maturity. The 2005 Merlot – 100% Oakville, by the way – represents a tremendous value. During my tenure at Swanson, we have moved to a riper style, but not overripe, to avoid green, herbal, herbaceous aromas and flavors, and have increased the black fruit component in the process. In fact, the black cherry and blackcurrant aroma/flavor in this wine are more Cab-like than Merlot. We call our Merlot a Cab-drinker’s Merlot, because it has many of the same attributes as a good Cabernet, without some of the astringent tannins of Cabernet. That’s the beauty of Merlot – quantitatively, about the same amount of tannin as Cabernet, but qualitatively, tannins which are more velvety, more finely-grained, and, frankly, more balanced. Christian Moeuix, director of his family’s Right Bank company now, and the owner of Dominus, told me last Saturday when we met up in Oakville, that he loves our 2005 Merlot. I consider this a huge compliment to our winemaking team, since I know he was not just being kind, he really meant it. This from a man who is known in the press as “Mr. Merlot”. We’ve balanced the wine with the addition of a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, and about 30% new oak, which is half French, half American. Christian found it to be well-balanced and enjoyable. I agree!

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

CHRIS: When I lived in Pomerol in 1982, the locals taught me how to grill ribeye steak over aged grapevine canes. I still do this at home, and at the winery. I like the meat rare, with sauteed shallots. This is a great combintation with the 2005 Merlot.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

CHRIS: I’m an Indigo Girls (folk-rock duo) groupie. I love to get to as many shows as possible. Emily Saliers (one of the IGs) has become a good friend, and she loves wine.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

CHRIS: Over the past 15 years or so, I’ve made a barrel or two of home wine every year, kind of like my folks did. In addition to being the communion wine at our church in St. Helena, this is our everyday table wine.

RED: You’ll have to tell me your secret formula one day. How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

CHRIS: Keep an open mind. Minds are like parachutes, they function best when open. Drink what really appeals to you, not what someone else thinks you should like. Always be open to trying new wines.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

CHRIS: I would love to try the 1961 Petrus again; I’ve tasted it out of both 6 liter and 750 ml format, and it was phenomenal.

RED: If I come across a bottle, I promise to share! What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

CHRIS: What are my favorite Napa Valley producers? It’s actually a tough question, and my answer varies, but Joseph Phelps, Chappellet, Provenance, and Honig are always on the list.

RED: Thank you so much for your time, Chris, and for the extensive answers. Our Operatives love getting to know our winemakers and I appreciate that you spent this much time with me today.

CHRIS: Thank you for spending time with me, and for your insightful questions. Is your name really Agent Red?

RED: I could tell you, but, you know…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Swanson Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Topel Winery Hidden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Topel of the day to you

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Visit Topel Winery and acquire an allocation of their delicious 2005 Hidden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Topel Winery

Wine Subject: 2004 Hidden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Donnis Topel

Backgrounder:

Mendocino AVA, located along the Russian River and highway 101 north of Sonoma County is where the grapes for this delicious Cabernet Sauvignon were grown. The actual AVA is centered between Hopland and Ukiah in the southern third of the county and are heavily influenced by the climate which is regulated by the mountain ridges that surround the upper Russian River. The deep alluvial and gravelly loam soils also contribute to the flavor profile of the grapes grown in the region. While Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Chardonnay are the primary grapes grown in the region, Cabernet Franc, Barbera, Petite Sirah and many other secondary grapes thrive in the climate.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark burgundy with ruby and garnet streaks that reflect light through its dense but clear core. Along the edges the color fades slightly to a deep ruby red and when swirled, thin tears hang before slowly descending to the wine below.

Smell – Rich and redolent with aromas of wild bramble berries including raspberry meld with ripe black cherry. Layers of complex spice, licorice, cigar box tobacco and oak adds to the classic Cabernet nose.

Feel – The initial attack of this dry and full-bodied wine is bold and firm with highly textured tannins that keep their grip as the feel softens as it breathes. A touch of spice on the tip of the tongue and solid acidity at the mid palate lingers into the finish. Given some time, this wine softens slightly but is still big and bold with great texture.

Taste – Rich and classic Cabernet flavors lead off with dense and ripe black cherry and other dark fruit are well integrated with notes of black licorice, spicy pepper, oak and cigar box tobacco and a touch of bramble herbs and hints of characteristic green bell pepper.

Finish – The textured tannins, acidity and spice felt on the palate hold tight and linger long as the rich fruit and other flavors gently fade and beg for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2004 Topel Winery Hidden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious and classic Mendocino Cabernet that is lead off with bold and rich black cherry and other dark fruits. A classic and solid structure grabs a hold and doesn’t let go for a long time, making this wine perfect for rich foods and also to keep a few bottles in the cellar to enjoy in the future.

Mission Report:

What follows is our original Dossier and Interview with Mark Topel. Please note that parts of the interview make reference to a different Topel wine than the one we are featuring today:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mark Topel

DATE OF BIRTH: January 11, 1945

PLACE OF BIRTH: Chicago, Illinois

WINE EDUCATION: Self- taught. Audited courses at UC Davis, mentored by some of the finest CA winemakers who are good friends, and OJT.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker, Topel Winery 1996 – Present

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Minimal intrusion. Let the grapes express themselves.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Tremendous positive feedback from satisfied customers

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Each vintage is like a new and unique poem—handcrafted and polished to perfection”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mark. We are thrilled to be showing your exceptional 2005 Meritage today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MARK: 1962/63 Penfolds Grainge Hermitage, discovered while I was in Australia, trying a legal case.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MARK: From my co-winemakers whose families had been working with grapes from our area for five generations.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MARK: Minimal intrusion to allow the grapes to express themselves in the most profound manner possible.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MARK: Three; The aforementioned Penfolds Grainge Hermitage style, Harlan’s Red Table Wine—Merlot/Cabernet Blend, and Chuck Wagner’s Caymus Special Select.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

MARK: Since 1993

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MARK: Simply, ourselves and our customers

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MARK: There are no shortcuts, no tricks, only hard work, long hours, and dedication to perfection.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MARK: This wine was a blending dream. Donnis and I sat in the winery for Christmas week of 2006, blending various combinations of our Bordeaux varietals. And then, magic! One of the blends began singing, and that blend became the 2005 Meritage. The Petit Verdot gave it brightness, in perfect balance with the flavors of the other varietals.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MARK: Rack of Lamb with a rich brown sauce reduction, very savory wild mushroom and wild rice combination

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MARK: 2006 Topel Estate Blend

RED: We’ll have to feature that one, next! How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MARK: In a not-too-serious, but appreciative mode, reflecting an understanding that they are about to experience a very pleasurable product, which has resulted from lots of loving and joyful careful preparation.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MARK: Thank a lot, Agent Red. We are sure that your Operatives will love our Metitage.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Topel’s Healdsburg tasting room where today’s wine and other great wines can be tasted can be seen in this satellite photo.