2008 Fratelli Giuliari Soave ‘Nogare Secche’ DOC

Mission Codename: Rico Soave

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive Soave D.O.C. for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fratelli Giuliari

Wine Subject: 2008 ‘Soave ‘Nogare Secche’ D.O.C.

Winemaker: Giuseppe Bassanelli

Backgrounder:

Soave D.O.C., one of Italy’s best know exported whites comes from the hill-top town of Soave and is made from a combination of Garganega and Trebbiano grapes. These wines are typically light and fresh and as the name indicates smooth. Meant to be enjoyed relatively young, the typical Soave is fermented in stainless steel. The Classico and Superior grades of this wine must be aged for at least a few months before eventual release.

Today’s featured Soave is unique in that half of the Garganega fruit is sun dried prior to fermentation, similar to the grapes used in Fratelli Giuliari’s delicious Amarone. This passito fruit adds a depth of character and richness to a wine that is usually on the lighter side in terms of complexity.

Fratelli Giuliari is rapidly becoming an operative favorite by blending traditional old-world winemaking with innovative modern techniques that reveal the exceptional character of the fruit used in their wines. Today’s delicious 100% Garganega Soave is no exception.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A crystal clear straw yellow to pale golden in color that becomes slightly more pale along the edges. Golden honey hues reflect through the clear core. When swirled, this wine shows off its springy surface texture and leaves slow thin legs along the side of the glass

Smell – Medium bold for a white, with rich lemon meringue citrus notes layered over orange blossom honey, notes of raw almond, subtle hot spice (pepper) and soft green herbal notes.

Feel – Smooth and rich, this medium weight white is almost dry with good structure, nice creaminess at the mid-palate and bright but balanced acidity, spiciness and minerality that lingers on the tip of the tongue and at the back of the palate.

Taste – Rich, juicy and lively sweeter lemon citrus with honey notes and lingering hot spice and clean mineral notes. The subtle raw almond and green herbs from the nose also make an appearance and adds a unique complexity.

Finish – Clean with lingering juicy rich citrus fruit that fades gracefully leaving behind a long mineral and spice note that invites another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Fratelli Giuliari ‘Soave ‘Nogare Secche’ D.O.C. is a delicious white wine that is much richer and more complex that the typical Soave. The passito fruit adds a real depth of character to the nose and palate as well as in its texture. While usually Soave is enjoyed before a meal, this wines is a perfect pair with food or to start a meal or to enjoy at lunch.

Mission Report:

Recently, we reviewed Fratelli Guiliari’s Amarone della Valpolicella, a style of wine that is Agent White’s first wine love. Below is a recap of the mission report from that wine.

We all have experiences that are the ”the tipping point” for our love of wine. This is the story of my first love, or in Italian Il Mio Primo Amore.
About 15 years ago, I had to visit New York City for business (before I had the pleasure of being a Wine Spy). My sister was going to school in the city and at the time was dating a great guy, we’ll call him Agent D who worked in the restaurant business.

We made dinner plans for Italian food and when we arrived at the restaurant, Agent D grabbed the wine list and his eyes lit up. He insisted we try this wine called Amarone della Valpolicella.

Now, I grew up with wine – we had wine with just about every dinner – but usually California styles. I had always enjoyed Italian wines but exposure to Italian wines was limited to the big three of Brunello, Barolo and Barbaresco (which, at the time, I could hardly afford); and of course plenty of Chianti. I had never tried Amarone. It was a bit more expensive than I wanted to spend, but I thought, what the heck I’m in NYC and life is good.

The waiter brought over the bottle, opened it up, we made sure it wasn’t tainted and then decanted it. As the wine was being carefully poured into the decanter, I caught a whiff of the aromas of dark fruit and chocolate and I knew at that moment I was in for a treat.

We poured our glasses, swirled and sniffed. The deep and complex aromas filled my head. I could hardly wait to take a sip. As I did and let the intense wine slide over my palate I just closed my eyes, savoring the moment before swallowing. The flavors lingered for what seemed an eternity. At that point, wine took on a new meaning for me – I was lost in the moment – a most delicious one.

A special thanks to Agent D, you know who you are, for introducing me to Amarone which ultimately lead me into my career in the wine business.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fratelli Giuliari near Verona, Italy can be seen in this satellite photo.

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