2008 Fratelli Giuliari Soave ‘Nogare Secche’ DOC

Mission Codename: Rico Soave

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive Soave D.O.C. for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fratelli Giuliari

Wine Subject: 2008 ‘Soave ‘Nogare Secche’ D.O.C.

Winemaker: Giuseppe Bassanelli

Backgrounder:

Soave D.O.C., one of Italy’s best know exported whites comes from the hill-top town of Soave and is made from a combination of Garganega and Trebbiano grapes. These wines are typically light and fresh and as the name indicates smooth. Meant to be enjoyed relatively young, the typical Soave is fermented in stainless steel. The Classico and Superior grades of this wine must be aged for at least a few months before eventual release.

Today’s featured Soave is unique in that half of the Garganega fruit is sun dried prior to fermentation, similar to the grapes used in Fratelli Giuliari’s delicious Amarone. This passito fruit adds a depth of character and richness to a wine that is usually on the lighter side in terms of complexity.

Fratelli Giuliari is rapidly becoming an operative favorite by blending traditional old-world winemaking with innovative modern techniques that reveal the exceptional character of the fruit used in their wines. Today’s delicious 100% Garganega Soave is no exception.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A crystal clear straw yellow to pale golden in color that becomes slightly more pale along the edges. Golden honey hues reflect through the clear core. When swirled, this wine shows off its springy surface texture and leaves slow thin legs along the side of the glass

Smell – Medium bold for a white, with rich lemon meringue citrus notes layered over orange blossom honey, notes of raw almond, subtle hot spice (pepper) and soft green herbal notes.

Feel – Smooth and rich, this medium weight white is almost dry with good structure, nice creaminess at the mid-palate and bright but balanced acidity, spiciness and minerality that lingers on the tip of the tongue and at the back of the palate.

Taste – Rich, juicy and lively sweeter lemon citrus with honey notes and lingering hot spice and clean mineral notes. The subtle raw almond and green herbs from the nose also make an appearance and adds a unique complexity.

Finish – Clean with lingering juicy rich citrus fruit that fades gracefully leaving behind a long mineral and spice note that invites another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Fratelli Giuliari ‘Soave ‘Nogare Secche’ D.O.C. is a delicious white wine that is much richer and more complex that the typical Soave. The passito fruit adds a real depth of character to the nose and palate as well as in its texture. While usually Soave is enjoyed before a meal, this wines is a perfect pair with food or to start a meal or to enjoy at lunch.

Mission Report:

Recently, we reviewed Fratelli Guiliari’s Amarone della Valpolicella, a style of wine that is Agent White’s first wine love. Below is a recap of the mission report from that wine.

We all have experiences that are the ”the tipping point” for our love of wine. This is the story of my first love, or in Italian Il Mio Primo Amore.
About 15 years ago, I had to visit New York City for business (before I had the pleasure of being a Wine Spy). My sister was going to school in the city and at the time was dating a great guy, we’ll call him Agent D who worked in the restaurant business.

We made dinner plans for Italian food and when we arrived at the restaurant, Agent D grabbed the wine list and his eyes lit up. He insisted we try this wine called Amarone della Valpolicella.

Now, I grew up with wine – we had wine with just about every dinner – but usually California styles. I had always enjoyed Italian wines but exposure to Italian wines was limited to the big three of Brunello, Barolo and Barbaresco (which, at the time, I could hardly afford); and of course plenty of Chianti. I had never tried Amarone. It was a bit more expensive than I wanted to spend, but I thought, what the heck I’m in NYC and life is good.

The waiter brought over the bottle, opened it up, we made sure it wasn’t tainted and then decanted it. As the wine was being carefully poured into the decanter, I caught a whiff of the aromas of dark fruit and chocolate and I knew at that moment I was in for a treat.

We poured our glasses, swirled and sniffed. The deep and complex aromas filled my head. I could hardly wait to take a sip. As I did and let the intense wine slide over my palate I just closed my eyes, savoring the moment before swallowing. The flavors lingered for what seemed an eternity. At that point, wine took on a new meaning for me – I was lost in the moment – a most delicious one.

A special thanks to Agent D, you know who you are, for introducing me to Amarone which ultimately lead me into my career in the wine business.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fratelli Giuliari near Verona, Italy can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Curious Vine Rustom Jee Pughouse Shiraz Grenache

Mission Codename: The Sandbox

Operative: Agent Petite Verdot

Objective: Send junior Operative, Agent Petite Verdot, to Australia, to retrieve an outstanding Aussie wine

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Rustom Jee

Wine Subject: 2006 Pughouse Shiraz Grenache Blend

Winemaker: Michael Scholz

Backgrounder: For toady’s mission we send new Wine Spies Operative, Agent Petite Verdot, down under, where she discovers Rustom Jee Winery. Headed by 6th-generation Australian winemaker, Michael Scholz, Rustom Jee makes wines from Estate grapes in Australia’s fables Barossa Valley. While in Australia, Agent Petite Verdot makes an alarming discovery: Rustom Jee’s winemaker is also the head winemaker at St. Supery Winery, a Wine Spies Operative favorite, in Napa!

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A stunning dark purple, with a foreboding and nearly black core. The wine lightens to a genuine mulberry hue, just at the rim

Smell – This wine has a lot to offer on the nose! Very woody at first pour (a combination of forest floor and toasted cedar) mellowing out after 15 to 20 minutes of being opened. Tart cherry and cinnamon are accentuated with soft sugared cranberry. A touch of leather (yes I know, I am a self professed hater of the descriptor leather, but it exists, and I love the aroma when its authentic) and pepper. After decanting, bold big berry and a light green pepper hint appears towards the end. Then, a strong anise finishes off the nose

Feel – This wine has a liquid Silk mouth feel that gradually becomes more full bodied and smooth as you sip it

Taste – Supple dark fruit leads the way, with blackberry and chicory, tart cherry and licorice. As the wine stretches out, flavors ruby ripe plumb, red currant and a hint of eucalyptus emerge

Finish – The soft tannins in this delicious Aussie red make for a lengthy and very elegant finish

Conclusion – Complex yet easy and even fun to drink, this dynamic wine has a lot to offer. Beautifully structured through and through, this is a great wine to drink all by itself but would pair beautifully with calamari fritti, bacon wrapped pork chops – which is what I paired this wine with – or a nice peppered NY Steak! Any fan of Aussie Shiraz will love this delicious and balanced wine.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Michael. We are thrilled to be showing your wine today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Michael Scholz

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: I was fortunate enough to grow up on a vineyard right in the middle of Australia’s most renowned wine district. As a kid, I spent all my time in and around the vineyards, whether it be playing in and around the small creek or helping out in the vineyard.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: I had a great opportunity to work with Frank Newman who had spent time at the helm of Grange.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: Winemaking and grape growing is the only thing that I know, and I reckon it’s a pretty cool thing to do. I want consumers to get a kick out of my wines, but I always work to put a wine in the bottle that I really like myself. After all, the word is that red wine is pretty good for you.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

WINEMAKER: The “PUGHOUSE” Blend is a Shiraz based wine laced with a little Grenache to give it some slight spice and lifted aromas. Grenache having a softer structure, allows us to present a wine that offers Shiraz richness with a slightly more supple finish. The vines that produce this wine are grown on my family’s 6th Generation Estate in the Barossa.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: In Australia we would pair it with a rack of lamb and maybe some potato gratin. However I think it is excellent with a char-grilled BBQ steak.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Barossa Valley so special?

WINEMAKER: The Barossa has proven to be a magic place to grow Shiraz. We also see excellent Grenache being produced. That is of course the essence of this blend. I guess the opportunity is due to the good sunshine and cool night time breezes, along with the shallow soils, for an excellent combination that allows us to grow vines to produce such great colour, structure and flavour.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: There is a new vintage gearing up right now, which makes for lots of work in an effort to produce another terrific season of wines.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

WINEMAKER: These are structured wines that are dense, flavourful and enjoyable.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

WINEMAKER: My Great Great Great Grandfather had the strength, courage and vision to settle this property. He was the first to settle this land, and it has not ever changed hands, remaining in the SCHOLZ family today. I am fortunate to be the 6th Generation on this old property and wish to present wines with an essence of this estate in the Barossa Valley.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Borassa Valley, in Australia, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Astrale e Terra Estate Merlot

Mission Codename: Billions and Billions

Operative: Agent Petite Verdot

Objective: Return to Astrale e Terra, raid their library and retrieve their legendary 2003 Merlot

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Astrale e Terra

Wine Subject: 2003 Atlas Peak Merlot – Napa Valley

Winemaker: Scott Harvey

Backgrounder: Today we introduce our newest Wine Spies Agent, Agent Petite Verdot. P.V., as we call her, brings a wealth of wine and industry knowledge and she is a welcome addition to our growing team of covert wine agents. We sent Agent Petite Verdot to Astrale e Terra to retrieve a cache of their 2003 Atlas Peak Merlot. She returned, victorious, with just enough to satisfy the demands of our thirsty Operatives.

Varietal Backgrounder: To true wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, outpacing all other varietals. Merlot is sincere wine for serious wine drinkers. If you think that Merlot is not for you, forget everything that you think you know about Merlot and embrace this spectacular example. Read Agent Petite Verdot’s interview with iconic winemaker, Scott Harvey, immediately following his tasting notes.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Incredibly dark & inky, lightening to rich hues of plumb and maroon around the rim

Smell – A little heat, at first, but the wine settles down easily with decanting. Then, lots of casis and oak, black currant and a hint of blueberry enliven the nose. After a little more time, the wine opens to lots of cinnamon and clove, sugared plumb and white pepper

Feel – Medium bodied at first showing its true full bodied character after decanting. The wine is initially tight and focused, up front, but then yields to and overall velvety mouth feel

Taste – Dark berry up front and a hint of spice, after decanting flavors of dark fruit emerge. Boysenberry and blackberry lead the way, followed by the blueberry from the nose, cooked sweet cherries and a hint of white pepper. Plus and exotic spice that I can’t quite put my finger on!

Finish – At first the finish is very soft and almost fleeting. Once decanted, though, the finishbecomes more extended, and reveals hints of coffee beans and dark coco with a touch of lingering berry and bolder tannins. still velvety, definitely lingering.

Conclusion -WOW, this is a remarkable and incredible wine. Very delicious and very interesting, with what I found be be almost multiple personalities. In a good way, of course. Up front it is a reserved easy-drinker – but once it opens up it brings out a whole new animal! Delicious is the one word that comes to mind. Certainly, this wine will hold up for years to come (5-7 is a safe estimate) and it is a wine that will pair well with most anything. Personnally, I would recommend this wine with spare-ribs, salt and pepper steaks, or a nice pan roasted pork tenderloin with blue cheese and olive stuffing. Add these to a romantic evening, or a wonderful time with friends and family, and you will have yourself a fantastic evening!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Scott Harvey

DATE OF BIRTH: 3-24-54

PLACE OF BIRTH: Bamberg, Germany

WINE EDUCATION: 1975, I apprenticed at K. Fitz-Ritter Winery while attending the Weinbau Schule in Neustadt, Germany. Returned to Amador County to apprentice from Cary Gott at Montevina winery.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Montevina, In 1978, at the age of twenty-three, Scott took over as Head Winemaker for Story Winery

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Being European trained, I make wines to go with food—good acidity and low pH. The is considered old world style of winemaking.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Barbera

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Named 1 of the top 10 Winemakers in CA by Dan Berger

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: 2003 Scott Harvey Reserve Barbera being selected as 3rd best Barbera in the world outside of Italy.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “This wine will get you laid” (This is Scott’s famous quote but I’m not sure you’ll want to use it”)

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Scott. We are thrilled to be showing the wine you made for Astrale e Terra today. You know that we have already shown your wines before – and that we are already devoted fans! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SCOTT: Thank you, Red! Thanks for selecting another one of my wines for your Operatives

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SCOTT: When I was sent to Germany as an AFS exchange student in high school, I was sent to a winemaking region of Germany. On my first day there, my “German family” handed me a glass of wine. I looked out the window at the vineyards below, got my German dictionary out and said, “does this wine come from those grapes?” They said “yes, do you want to see where it’s made?” ….and the rest is history.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

SCOTT: I got my basic training in Germany but my recent winemaking style I attribute to my mentor, Dr. Richard Peterson.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

SCOTT: Old world style. Wines that are drunk with food.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

SCOTT: Dr. Richard Peterson

RED: How long have you been making wine?

SCOTT: 37 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

SCOTT: Myself, my wife, and our consumers

RED: Tell me, what makes Atlas Peak so special?

SCOTT: Only 2% of the world has a Mediterranean climate like Napa Valley with the warm days and cool nights along with its unique soils and geography.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

SCOTT: You need to be a very clean and neat person. 90% of winemaking is janitorial.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SCOTT: Bottling the wines in the barrels. Getting ready for the 2009 harvest.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

SCOTT: It’s a full bodied Napa Valley Syrah from one of the best appellations in Napa Valley for Syrah—Atlas Peak.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SCOTT: Duck breast.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

SCOTT: I like to iron my own shirts.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

SCOTT: Chianti

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

SCOTT: People drink experiences. Have fun with the wine.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

SCOTT: Whatever my wife wants to drink.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

SCOTT: Question: Do you plan to make any new wines? Answer: I’d love to make a Gewurtztraminer but my wife won’t let me.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work!

SCOTT: Thanks, again, Agent Red. Scott Harvey, over and out!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Atlas Peak region can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Miro Cellars Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Miro, Miro on the wall, Who’s the fairest of them all?

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friend Miro and retrieve his 2007 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Miro Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Hillside Select Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

Today’s wine was grown at the Acure Estate Vineyard, a prime hillside climat in Alexander Valley. Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Intense dark purple with garnet and violet reflections throughout its dark but clear core. Along the edges, the color remains a dense garnet and violet and when swirled clusters of fast thin legs streak down the side of the glass to the wine below.

Smell – Bold and unrestrained aromas of dark wild berries included blackberry but to a lesser extent raspberry too. Layer this fruit with wild black licorice spicy pepper and hints of smoke, violets and dark mocha.

Feel – Youthful and unabashed fully textured finely grained tannins hold on tight to the palate and coat the mouth, but give this wine some time to open up and a lovely balance appears in this dry full bodied wine as the acidity and minerality frame flavors and linger into the finish.

Taste – Well focused flavors of tart dark berries including blackberry, raspberry and other bramble fruit with a distinct forest-floor component. Notes of black licorice, mocha, spicy pepper and toasted/smokey oak adds complexity.

Finish – The flavors taper off in medium time but the finely textured firm tannins and minerality linger for an eternity and begs for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Miro Cellars Hillside Select Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon takes its time to reveal its true character but once it does you’ll be rewarded with a delicious, youthful and highly tactile wine. Aromas and flavors of dark berries and forest notes and a healthy does of spice and a fantastic mouth feel. If enjoyed young, please decant this wine; or cellar it for up to ten years. We enjoyed this wine with simple grilled hamburgers with aged cheddar cheese.

Mission Report:

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: February 4, 1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: So far I made my mark with Petite Sirah for the Miro brand, with my other jobs I have done very well with other varieties and blends. In general I’m very fond of perhaps the only two varieties that California has claim to fame as truly “heritage” –P. Sirah and Zinfandel. My Petite has done well with the gate keepers and media so far.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.
I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country…
There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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Below is Agent Petite Sirah’s recent interview with Miro when we featured his 2006 Petite Sirah.

AGENT PETITE SIRAH: Greetings, Miro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Petite Sirah today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIRO TCHOLAKOV: A pleasure. My ’06 has become very popular and your Operatives are going to see the last of it.

PETITE SIRAH: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIRO: I don’t think that there was any specific event-wine has always been part of our life back in Bulgaria. We made every year about 1000 liters and manage to drink most of it before the next harvest. Wine has always been part of the life circle, just like making cheese or jam or tomato sauces. We also made grappa every year. My grandfather Mariano was the initial inspiration and the first hand source of winemaking knowledge.

PETITE SIRAH: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIRO: The real winemaking I learned during my first years at Dry Creek. I’m not done with the learning by any means yet. Back in Bulgaria we made the wine in the most pure way possible. We rarely used even sulfur! No additives and none of the modern gadgets-just grapes and barrels.

PETITE SIRAH: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MIRO: Don’t play with the wine just because you know how. Only intervene when you absolutely have to and you are sure of the outcome. Always pay attention to the details all the time. Everything you do to the wine-matters!

PETITE SIRAH: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIRO: Well I don’t think there is just one person-it is more of a collective of people and styles. I do not believe that I have a particular style per say-I just try to get out of the grapes the most from every vintage-and that would be different every year.

PETITE SIRAH: How long have you been making wine?

MIRO: Legally? Commercially –this harvest was my number 20!

PETITE SIRAH: Who do you make wine for?

MIRO: I guess I can say that first I want to be satisfied with the wines I make and of course it will be great if a lot of people including media like them as well. Otherwise I’ll have a lot of wine to drink by myself…

PETITE SIRAH: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

MIRO: Well, I always had a soft spot for Dry Creek even after moving to Alexander Valley. Dry Creek is less uniform geologically and climate wise than say AV. There are many secluded little vineyards hidden in some small valleys or hill tops. I love the red dirt on the slopes. I just like the flavors that all that combination of dirt and climate do to Zin and PS.

PETITE SIRAH: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MIRO: You have to love the job. If you are in it just 8 to 5 don’t even think about it. If the love and passion are not there you will be just a booze maker. Also you have to be willing to sacrifice a lot of time and long days and hours away from the family.

PETITE SIRAH: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: It is Harvest!! Everything that I normally do plus Harvest on top of it.

PETITE SIRAH: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MIRO: 2006 Petite is probably the most ready to drink yearly Petite I’ve ever made. The 06 harvest was not exactly a perfect one especially for the late ripening varieties but PS is not one of them. From winemaking point of view I prefer fermenting PS in open top and basically think of it as Pinot with a bit more air exposure. It is an easy to understand wine-just big, dark and delicious. It has a mile long finish and it will stand the test of time and only get better. It has a very seductive sweet and ripe aroma that will make you keep smelling it until the last drop.

PETITE SIRAH: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Petites usually go well with the category of comfort foods-anything related to fall and winter. Meat with root vegetables like stew, oven roasts, something cooked slowly for a long time. Also as a no brainer-grilled meats. Occasionally I love it with the Chicken Livers dish at the Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg.

PETITE SIRAH: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIRO: I wanted to be a MD back in Bulgaria but my girlfriend talked me out of it

PETITE SIRAH: Thank goodness for us fans of your wines! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIRO: Rhone wines for sure. I even make one for a winemaker called Cuvee Sasha a GSM-simply delicious without all the pretence.

PETITE SIRAH: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MIRO: Think of them as $100 bottle of wines and you will not be disappointed. I hate the cliché but they are “affordable luxury”

PETITE SIRAH: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MIRO: I would like to try again the 1927 Château D’yquem

PETITE SIRAH: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MIRO: Have I been connected to KGB? The answer is –perhaps!

PETITE SIRAH: Our intel reports were correct then! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MIRO: Thank you, Agent Petite Sirah!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate location of the Miro Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Canihan Family Cellars Exuberance Syrah

Mission Codename: Unrestrained Enthusiasm

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Infiltrate Canihan Family Cellars and return with their delicious Sonoma Valley Syrah.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Canihan Family Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Exuberance Syrah

Winemaker: Alex Beloz

Backgrounder:

Our Operatives love a great Syrah, and they snap them up in record numbers, bucking the industry trends which suggest that Syrah sales are slightly declining. Our Operatives has proven that they are ahead of the curve in so many ways, especially when it comes to purchasing a great wine. Today, we visit our friends at Canihan Family Cellars to bring you their Exuberance Sonoma Valley Syrah, a delicious interpretation of the noble varietal.

The Sonoma Valley AVA is one of the oldest wine growing regions in California with the first vines being planted in the early 1800s. The AVA is located along California Route 12 and its eastern boundary are the southern end of the Mayacama mountains. The unique micro-climate with less rainfall and fog than other parts of the region along with its unique soil provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir. Grown on their tiny estate vineyard, today’s wine is a special treat.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and dark purple with a barely clear core that let’s just a little light shine through with garnet reflections. Along the edges the color remains dense with garnet and violet hues. When swirled, slow thin legs hang for a few seconds before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Fresh and ripe blue and black fruit leads the way with sweet boysenberry. A healthy dose of black peppercorn along with other savory spices meld with smokey notes and hints of floral violets and cured meats.

Feel – Expansive and plush, this dry full-bodied wine spreads across the palate with velvety tannins and easy but balanced acidity. Elegant, warm and soft in its feel and not quite chewy, but close.

Taste – Generous jammy black and blue fruit with boysenberry, blackberry and raspberry with a touch of savory cured meat and subtle smokey oak notes. Savory spice, pepper linger and hints of earthiness linger into the finish.

Finish – Quite long with the fruit gracefully fading leaving hints of savory spice and this wine’s silky tannins behind.

Conclusion – The 2006 Canihan Family Cellars Exuberance Sonoma Valley Syrah is a delicious Syrah that is immensely approachable with its ripe and plush fruit balanced over its spice and other complex flavors. Very well developed and integrated, a perfect new-world interpretation that will please anyone who loves fruit forward wines. Enjoy this wine now or cellar for a few years. Pair this lovely wine with spicy sausages or savory grilled red meat.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Alex Beloz. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Canihan Family Exuberance Syrag today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ALEX: Glad to share some info.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ALEX: Travels to Europe, specifically Italy, after university. Met some great families that taught me about wine appreciation. I got the wine bug right away. When I returned home I pursued a career in wine.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

ALEX: My first crush position. There’s nothing like getting the hands-on experience.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

ALEX: To make delicious, compelling wines from fruit grown under strong viticultural practices.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ALEX: I suppose it’s more a region, the North Coast, that has influenced me. It’s where I learned how to make wine and where I work on a daily basis.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

ALEX: About 12 years now!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ALEX: For my clients. In the end I make delicious, compelling wines that my clients will enjoy. Ultimately its they who will sell the wine. If they like it and are proud of it, they will be successful.

RED: Tell me, what makes Bill’s vineyards so special?

ALEX: Bill’s wines are grown on a tiny vineyard in southern Sonoma. During the growing season it gets warm enough in the day to ripen fruit well and cool enough in the evenings to give the vine some respite. It’s a very ideal climate.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

ALEX: Consider and research it well. Get plenty of hands-on experience before committing to a full-on career in winemaking. There is a lot of romance that blinds folks into pursuing such a career not knowing that there is a lot of inglorious hard work and sacrifice in making wine.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ALEX: Lab work on the new vintage. Putting the new vintage to bed. And preparing for a busy spring and summer of vineyard monitoring and bottling.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

ALEX: The 2006 Exuberance Syrah was crafted with fruit from the estate vineyard. The cool growing conditions of 2006 lend a “cool-climate” character to this wine; plenty of fruit with a nice backbone of acidity and spice notes. The wine was aged for 18 months in French barrels where the wine gained mid-palate texture and maturity.

This wine is a classically styled Syrah. It has a lovely deep red hue with purple notes. It is aromatic and inviting with notes of black cherry and spice. On the palate it is supple and full of fruit flavors like candied cherries and blackberries. The fruit flavors are complimented with hints of vanilla, camphor and cinnamon.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ALEX: My favorite pairing of this Syrah is with rich, braised dishes including those made with lamb or beef. The wine is rich enough to stand up to those flavorful dishes but has enough refreshing acidity that cleanses the palate.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

ALEX: Wine is not my job. It’s my lifestyle.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

ALEX: No favorites. I like tasty, well balanced wines of all colors, varietals and regions…but it’s got to be good!

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

ALEX: Most of my wines are nice right out the bottle. They’re always better a year out from release. However, if one has little time or patience, as we all do sometimes, I recommend my wines to be uncorked a couple hours before tasting.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

ALEX: Corton-Charlemagne. Small production. Very pricey. Very good.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

ALEX: Do you love what you do? I would respond: “I’m one of the luckiest guys on the planet!”

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

ALEX: You bet!

2006 Lynmar Estate Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay

Mission Codename: A Fine Balance

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friends at Lynmar Estate Winery and acquire their delicious Russian River Valley Chardonnay

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Lynmar Estate Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Russian River Valley Chardonnay

Winemaker: Hugh Chappelle

Winery Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s. In today’s wine, Lynmar Estate presents their own delicious take on Russian River Valley Chardonnay by delivering a wine of finesse and elegance. Read Agent White’s mission report and tasting noted below for the full intel on this very exciting wine.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Golden straw-yellow with a subtle greenish hue when held to the light. Almost clear (wine has some sediment – perhaps unfiltered) and when swirled fast clusters of thin legs race to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity with delicious aromatic finesse, this wine shows off its fresh peach, green apple and citrus fruit with well integrated white flowers, a touch of biscuit and cereal and chalky minerality.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this medium bodied white has lively acidity and excellent tannin and mineral structure that frames the fresh fruit and other flavors long into the finish.

Taste – Fresh tree fruit including pear, green apple and peach with a touch of spice (almost sentimental of the holidays) and Meyer lemon interlace with toasted nuts and biscuit flavors. Chalky minerality is juxtaposed over subtle oak and hints of butter giving this wine just enough creaminess to balance the fruit and spice perfectly.

Finish – Clean, crisp and refreshing, this wine’s tangy fruit dances over the palate all the while, its complex flavors linger, making the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Lynmar Estate Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay is a delicious Chardonnay with tremendous elegance in its aromas, structure and flavors. Not a butterball or overly oaky, this wine is the perfect accompaniment for lobster or a seafood salad. Enjoy this wine now, or cellar for several years to come.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Bibiana Gonzalez Rave

DATE OF BIRTH: 21st February 1978

PLACE OF BIRTH: Medellin – Colombia (South America)

WINE EDUCATION:
BS of Enology at the University of Bordeaux, France.
BTS (Brevet Technicien Superieur) equivalent to a technician degree in Viticulture and Enology from Angouleme, Cognac at the Lycee Agricole Superieur de L’Oisellerie, France.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: In California, I worked harvest two times before staying full-time. I worked at La Crema Winery in 2004 as my first experience in the United States. I was their harvest enologist (It was a great experience to manage a lot of people and to establish the production schedule on a daily basis for a larger winery). Then, I came back in 2005 to work at Peay Vineyards, a small producer in the Sonoma Coast focused on producing very high end wines. In 2007, I started working at Au Bon Climat and Qupe winery and stayed there for two years as assistant winemaker/enologist.

As you can see, from my degrees in enology, I was trained in the world of winemaking in France. My experience covers six harvests in France (Burgundy at Domaine du Devevey, Northern Rhone Valley at Domaine Michel & Stephane Ogier as well as Domaine Clusel Roch , Bordeaux at Château Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, Cognac at the Lycee agricole and private family destileries, and in Alsace at Domaine du Scheidecker). My experience also includes three harvests in South Africa at Saronsberg Cellars.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Being trained in France stamps your philosophy on winemaking. Everything starts in the vineyards and that is something you can not take or copy from anybody else. So, the first thing I’m looking for is great sources of grapes, Estate owned vineyards and a place that has the belief that magic comes from small berries and not from magic formulas in the cellar. Winemaking is an art and a science; I have trained myself to understand all the little subtleties of vineyard management and winemaking to understand the limits of science and when one just needs to leave Mother Nature to do her part. I believe our hands impact the final result, but I also believe that letting the wines express their terroir is my biggest challenge. (I know people use the term “terroir” with caution here in the US, but from my training in France, this is how I visualize the wines).

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Pinot Noir. Lynmar Estate is in the ideal place for this variety, and it is a joy to see what the vineyards produce.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: I believe my career highlight is bottled in the 2009 vintage but you will have to check back with me on that!

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Winemaking is the perfect combination between art and science. Once you have unique terroirs to work with, we owe to them our knowledge and emotions. Uniqueness of a wine is that perfect balance in which, while tasting the wine, something is telling you that you are in front of something special, you won’t need words to describe it…

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Bibiana. We are thrilled to be showing your [wine] today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BIBIANA: Thank you for giving me this great opportunity to answer your questions.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BIBIANA: Not really. Growing up in Colombia doesn’t seem the greatest place to have these kinds of ideas. We can easily think about growing coffee, flowers or maybe other things but making wine is kind of exceptional. I never saw a vine in my life until I went to France to study winemaking but since I was 14, I wanted to do so. Unbelievable, no?

WHITE: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

BIBIANA: In France. I lived, studied and worked in France for five years before I started traveling between California and South Africa. I was doing two harvests per year to get as much experience as I could. That stamps your body, brain, and beliefs with what you are doing. However, experiencing differences of vineyards, grape-growing seasons and winemaking techniques around the globe gives you a lot of knowledge that sometimes you didn’t even
realize was being acquired.

WHITE: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

BIBIANA: I believe in making wines that express the terroir but that at the same time are giving you an emotion- a special feeling inside your body when you drink them. I believe our wines at Lynmar can do this all of this. Our wines are a beautiful combination between balance, power and elegance.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BIBIANA: What a difficult question. I think the biggest influence in my winemaking style was to start my training on the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie. I don’t know if you have ever been there, but there are steep hills and every single vine is pruned, trained on the trellis, hedged and harvested under the most difficult conditions. When you spend every single day during the winter, summer and fall taking care of them, you feel something deep inside your body that gives you so much satisfaction. It is painful, demanding and exhausting, but, it is so beautiful at the same time. I think that my first two years of viticulture and enology have given me a passion for hard work that is difficult to enjoy if you haven’t see the result in a glass of wine. I had a great chance to work with some of the best winemakers in France and I feel very privileged for it. They don’t give you anything for free in France; you really have to prove yourself, but at the end of the day, you know you got what you were looking for: a deep understanding of winegrowing. So, to answer your question, the vineyard has been the teacher I learned from under the influence of many amazing and experienced winemakers.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

BIBIANA: Since 2000. Fortunately though, I have been through 14 harvests already: some years I was doing two harvests per year until I settled down in California.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

BIBIANA: For human beings. I expect people to taste a wine I have made and to feel something about it. I don’t make wines for specific critics because I believe that wine lovers as well as wine drinkers are looking for emotions, complexity and uniqueness; so, when I make wine, I hope they will find something unique in what I have created, and if they do, I have achieved my goal. I think the best wines in the world are those that put one at a loss for words. Also, making wines that can be drunk on their own or be paired with food is exactly what we look for at Lynmar. We have put a lot of emphasis into the full experience people can have when they come to our tasting room, winery and gardens. So obviously, wine is made to be drunk at the table, with friends and family.

WHITE: Tell me, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

BIBIANA: Russian River is a privileged spot of California, especially the areas with Goldridge soils, ocean influences and Eastern exposure for the vines. The Quail Hill, our estate vineyard, is in the Occidental area of the Russian River. We have great fluctuations between the night and day temperatures and a slow maturation of the grapes on the vines. This area is just perfect for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and also for Syrah.

WHITE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

BIBIANA: As I said before, winemaking is a combination between science and art. I believe in both and have taken the long way to learn and to practice. If you can learn from a great winemaker, go for it… If you want to go through school, be sure that you are choosing great places to work, also, while studying for a degree. There are so many opportunities out there in this industry – that is also the beauty of it.

At the end, the most important thing is to be sure that this is really what you want to do because it is not as glamorous and easy as many people might think.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BIBIANA: We are bottling our 2008 wines while starting to think about our 2009 blends. It is an interesting combination of feelings. Bottling for me is the most stressing time of the year because after the wine is bottled, there is nothing else you can do about it. You can not taste it again to decide a blend, you cannot take out the toast of a specific barrel that you might not have wanted to put in the blend and you are very far away of all the possibilities you have during harvest to create that unique product. Blending is a fantastic and interesting creative time for me. I have more than 90 different, small lots from last year that will be blended together for all our limited productions of vineyard designated wines.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

BIBIANA: We are featuring the Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2006. It is a very special wine for many reasons. First, it is a complex combination of fruit from different vineyards in the Russian River Valley. A large percent comes from our own vineyards which is a combination of the Rued and Old Wente clone. 40% of the wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks and the rest in barrels, 25% of which is new oak. This specific vintage, the wine is crisp, complex, full of citrus aromas, flower notes from the Rued Clone and a broad and long mouth feel. This wine is great to drink as an aperitif and with food as well.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BIBIANA: Seafood: Grilled calamari and scallops. I also love chicken and other white meats with it.

WHITE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

BIBIANA: Being Colombian, I care a lot about teaching consumers how to understand wine better. I write articles for Colombian newspapers and magazines and when I have a little bit of time to go to my country, I also try to do seminars or winemaker dinners.

WHITE:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

BIBIANA: I don’t really have an everyday wine. I taste a lot of wines everyday at home to keep myself informed about wines from California but also from overseas. Everyday is a challenge, because we do a lot of blind tasting.

WHITE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

BIBIANA: I think it’s important that when people drink our wines, they keep in mind the place, the terroir, and everything behind the wine. This will allow them the fullest emotional expression. That being said, wine is ultimately made to be enjoyed. I think people should share these wines with great friends and a well-paired meal.

WHITE: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

BIBIANA: Pinot Noir Grand Crus from Burgundy, Chardonnays from Meursault, Chassagne, Puligny and Montrachet, and Syrah from Côte-Rôtie.

WHITE: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

BIBIANA: None. I love your interview and think that this is the first time I have such a complete and thoughtful number of questions.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

BIBIANA: Thank you. We are very happy you have chosen Lynmar as your featured wine and hope you will enjoy it.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the gorgeous Lynmar Estate Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Gioia Wines Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: A Mother’s Love

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Investigate Rumors of the exceptional wines from Gioia in Santa Barbara

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Gioia Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Teri Love & Jim Porter

Backgrounder:

Santa Barbara County’s Pinot Noir may have become famous by the movie Sideways, but the tradition of wine growing and winemaking dates back to the Spanish missionaries but after prohibition many of the vines disappeared. In the early 1970s vines began to reappear and in just a few years, however unlikely, the region began to develop a reputation for producing exceptional Bugundian varietals challenging Oregon and New Zealand in the production of exceptional Pinot Noir.

The Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley where the fruit for this wine was sourced have maritime climates influenced and tempered by the Pacific Ocean and soils of sand and clay loam which suits Pinot Noir exceptionally well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dense garnet and ruby red with color that is sustained to the very edge of the glass. A dark but clear core shows ruby red reflections when held to the light and when swirled, fast, thin legs streak down to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity but with a persistent character, fruit forward aromas of red and black fruit including ripe cherries and black currents are layered over rich earthy undertones and floral violets; a hint of herbal thyme, musk and pepper emerge as you continue to explore the nose of this wine.

Feel – Rich and soft, this dry full-bodied wine is velvet smooth with plush well developed and integrated tannins and a touch of lively acidity that keeps things interesting and lingering into the finish.

Taste – Generous and warm with dense and rich cherry, ripe plum and other red and black fruits. Add to this fruit a healthy dose of earthy undertones, a touch of spice, oak, herbal and floral hints that are found on the nose.

Finish – Medium in length with soft ripe fruit leading the way and fading softly that begs for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Gioia Winery Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir is a delicious and fruit forward Pinot from one of the best vintages in nearly a decade. Plush and ripe fruit on the nose and palate makes this wine extremely approachable and easy to enjoy.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER SUBJECTS: Winemaker, Jim Porter and Winery owner, Teri Love

WINE EDUCATION: Fresno State

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Jim, began making wine in 1994

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Let the fruit tell the story.

TERI LOVE QUOTE: ”Share the Joy, pour Gioia to welcome, accept & celebrate what life has to offer.” WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Life’s not about waiting for the storm to pass, it’s about learning to dance in the rain.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Jim: William James Cellars 2003 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay & SBC Syrah FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: Teri: Gioia Santa Barbara County 2007 Chardonnay & SBC Pinot Noir

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, you two! Today marks our first-ever dual-interview! We are thrilled to be showing your Gioia wines today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

TERI & JIM: It’s our pleasure.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

TERI: From the very first time I opened a bottle of wine, it was in celebration of something wonderful. That became even more meaningful when my son Tyler & I traveled to Europe together. Each day was a joy, topped off with an exquisite wine.

JIM: I discovered how much I loved wine when I began wine tasting in college with friends. I knew it would become a major part of my life.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

TERI: Jim Porter has influenced me the most. He has an extensive background in wine making, with exceptional results. That is why we make wine together.

JIM: I met a friend named Mike Barreto in 1990 when we attended Fresno State together. I became a big fan of his wine making style and I still am to this day.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

TERI: I blend the wine to have a fragrant, enticing aroma along with a brilliant color. These are the first things one notices when pouring a bit of the living earth in their wine glass. I feel that if I think the wine is beautiful & brings a smile to my lips, others will feel the same way.

JIM: I started making my own wine in my basement for myself. Friends talked me into selling it because in their opinion, it was too good to not share with the public.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

TERI: This 2007 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir won a silver medal at the June 2009 Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition in the Pinot Noir division. The fruit is from Garey Ranch and Los Alamos Vineyards in Santa Maria. The rich body has muted undertones of lavender & violet with a deep jeweled ruby color.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

TERI: This wine accompanies a wide variety of different types of pairings. However, since I am basically a vegetarian (I do eat some fish) I would say my favorite pairing would be with roasted winter vegetables: carrots, sweet potatoes, butternut squash, parsnips, brilliant multi-colored beets, dried apricots, pecans, walnuts & pumpkin. Add cold pressed olive oil. Simmer on top of the stove in a large covered skillet. This can be enjoyed alone, on top of couscous, brown rice, crispy Tofu or anything else one desires. A much simpler answer: Drunken goat cheese with crispy crusty piping hot freshly made bread and herb cured black and green olives.

JIM: I think this wine is the perfect pairing with Risotto and Lamb Ragu. Start with olive oil & a vegetable mix of diced onion, celery & carrots. Add garlic, tomato puree , bay leaf, white wine,chopped sage, truffle oil, risotto and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. The full recipe comes from Leonardo of Trattoria Grappolo in Santa Ynez. Find it in his Traditional Italian Cuisine Cookbook.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Santa Barbara region so special?

TERI: There is an earthy, organic feel to this region. Ocean air flows across this land, deep into the hills & canyons, allowing temperatures to climb at mid-day, becoming chilly over night. The balance of warm sunlight & fog cooled air, creates subtle, yet fully flavored Pinot Noir grapes, producing a world class fine wine.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JIM: We are experimenting with blending a super Tuscan varietal to add to the lineup of wines in Gioia’s portfolio.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

TERI: Teri: Wine is something that should be approached with curiosity & a sense of adventure. Each wine is unique with different qualities that attract us in so many ways. Our job is to delight in the variety of all that is available to us.There is no right or wrong way to describe what one tastes in their glass. If you like it….it’s good! JIM: I agree 100%!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

TERI: One of my favorite quotes: ”Some weasel took the cork out of my lunch.” – W.C. Fields

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans! TERI & JIM: Thank you for the opportunity to go on a covert mission with The Wine Spies!

2004 Reserva Mont-Ferrant Blanes Nature Brut Extra Cava

Mission Codename: The Catalonia Connection

Operative: Agent Sparkle

Objective: Retrieve a delicious and unique vintage Cava for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Reserva Mont-Ferrant

Wine Subject: 2004 Blanes Nature Brut Extra Cava

Backgrounder:

Cava is Spain’s only traditionally produced sparkling wine, using the méthode champenoise. Other sparkling wines from Spain must be labeled simply as sparkling wines. The carbon dioxide, that forms the bubbles, is a result of a natural secondary fermentation in the bottle. The name Cava comes from the caves where the bottles are kept during their secondary fermentation. There are several categories of Cava that indicate the level of residual sugar in the wine. Today’s selection is the driest and designated Nature Brut. Cava can be made from any number of varietals providing a magnificent range of flavors and character from wine to wine. Today’s selection is made with using the most traditional blend, Macebeu, Xarel-lo and Parallada grapes. Read more about Cava in Agent Sparkles’ mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Pale clear light golden color that becomes even more pale along the edges. A medium mousse of fine bubbles forms and fades gracefully leaving behind a steady stream of fine bubbles that break the surface.

Smell – Aromatic with notes of tart citrus and green apple layered over autolytic scents of biscuit and yeast. Subtle herb, smoke and honey notes adds to the complexity.

Feel – Bone dry with a very crisp and lively effervescence. With its bright acidity, this dry medium-bodied wine dances on the palate with a healthy dose of minerality.

Taste – Zesty lemon citrus and tart green apple flavors that are restrained in its flavors, almost felt more than they are tasted with hints of biscuit, nuts and a slight touch of honey, vanilla, smoke and extremely subtle herbal notes.

Finish – Crisp, clean and refreshing, this dry sparkler has medium length with lingering minerality, citrus and a touch of smoke.

Conclusion – The 2004 Reserva Mont-Ferrant Blanes Nature Brut Extra Cava is a lively sparkler with a lively effervescence and restrained tart citrus and green apple flavors. Subtly complex with solid acidity and minerality makes this wine perfect for enjoying with spicy food. Serve very cold.

Mission Report:

Agent Sparkle checking in…

Its not too often that I get called in for duty, but when I do, I relish the opportunity. Today, my travels take us to south-eastern Spain, to Catalonia to be specific, and into Cava Country. The bonus for me is a trip to Barcelona. Cava, Spain’s version of French Champaign is made in much the same way, with the exception of a much broader array of varietal fruit. Only Spanish wines made in the méthode champenoise can be called Cava.

The fruit must be at least one, but up to five grapes including Parellada, Xarel-lo, Macebe, Chardonnay, and Subirat (related to Malvasia). Like Champagne, Cava is also categorizes by its residual sugar. With Brut Nature being the driest (0-0.3% – bone dry), then Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Dry, Demi-Sec and Sweet with the highest residual sugar.

While most of us have been exposed to lower quality and inexpensive Cava such as Freixenet, one of the largest producers of sparkling wine in the world, there exist many others of high quality and character. Today’s selection from Reserva Mont-Ferrant is a vintage Nature Brut made from Parellada, Xarel-lo, Macebe, the most traditional of blends.

Enjoy this wine like the Spanish do, in celebration of the holidays and often times simple as comfort wine to be paired with comfort food.

Saludos from Barcelona!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Reserva Mont-Ferrant can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Charter Oak Winery Sonoma Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: Red Mountain Heritage

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Operatives have been clamoring for a big, juicy and delicious Sonoma Valley Zinfandel, worthy of their exacting tastes. Send Agent Red into the field to secure an ample cache of the best Zinfandel he can find

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Charter Oak

Wine Subject: 2007 Monte Rosso Vineyard Sonoma Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: Robert M. Fanucci

Winery Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley_ Zinfandels, which are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful and almost glowing, reminding me of bright red cherry Jell-O – with a soft hint of violet. At the very outer edges of the wine, a soft pink hue is barely discernible. This wine shows off long, skinny legs the start high up the glass

Smell – Lush and softly earthy, with great fruit and warm spice, the wine leads with blackberry, raspberry and cranberry. After a few deep inhalations, dusty bramble, mixed spice, soft cedar and black pepper emerge

Feel – Soft and light-weight on entry, then quickly grippy as lush tannins spread across the palate, adding a sweet and tart dryness that is followed by peppery spice

Taste – Sweet and lush, with sweet and tart red fruits of raspberry and cranberry. These are accompanied by cassis, blackberry, soft mixed spices and black cracked pepper

Finish – This wine finishes smooth, aptly dry and ultra-long showing off a great balance among its fruit, spice and earthy characteristics

Conclusion – We love it when we are introduced to new wineries by our in the field Operatives. today’s very special wine came to us by way of Agent M2, a deep-cover Operative that works at another prestigious winery in the region. M2 insisted that we infiltrate Charter Oak, paying particular attention to their Monte Rosso Zinfandel. She had never led us astray in the past, so we rushed to procure an allotment of today’s brilliant Zin. I loved the delicious depth and complexity of the wine. From its lush and juicy flavors, to the supple texture and on to its smooth finish, this food friendly wine is also a perfect solo-sipper for those that really love great Zinfandel.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Robert Fanucci

WINE EDUCATION: Learned from my Grandfather Guido Ragghianti from a young age and from harvest, fermenting, pressing in 100+ year old basket press, racking the summer of 1986 in which in died in December of that year at the age of 98. He was still picking grapes at age 98 and fermenting, second press, rolling 60 gallon barrels and drinking close bottle of wine a day or has he would say a gallon every 8 days. I also to allot of chemistry classes and UC Davis to add to may art of winemaking skills learned from my Grandfather.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: 1986 to present. Homemade wine until Charter Oak’s first commercial vintage in 1988.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Try to be as natural as possible and interfere as little as possible. We are mere stewards of the wine. God makes the wine. Industrial/commercial wineries use way too many chemicals every step of the wine making process. We use natural yeast fermentation, punch down the cap with old world redwood bats which are over 100 years old, second press by hand in 100+ year old basket press, let the wine go through malolactic fermentation without chemical additives.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Enjoy wine often with friends and family and always with food. Wine drunk with food is one of the greatest blessing in life.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: June 2000 (1998) Vintage.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Robert. We are thrilled to be showing your Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

ROBERT FANUCCI: Thanks, Agent Red!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ROBERT: When I was no older than 4 years old my Grandfather Guido Ragghianti would give be a bottle of sweet wine for my birthday which always had a string around the neck of the bottle. Shortly thereafter, he would give me a brandied prune soaked in home made grappa. He dried the prunes from Italian prune trees on his vinegary in St. Helena. I was very disappointed as a young boy when I ordered prunes in a restaurant thinking that the prunes would taste like my Grandfather’s. I have never since ordered prunes in a restaurant. At a very young age my Grandfather would serve me wine with water with a hearty Italian meal around the table. There were always several roasts, 6 or 7 vegetables, one or two different types of pastas, cheese, polenta with fungi, etc.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ROBERT: My Grandfather Guido Ragghianti from a young boy until I was a young man at 30 when he died at age 98..

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ROBERT: Since my Grandfather drank wine everyday with his afternoon meal which he started cooking early in the morning around 5:00 a.m. we made wine for our selves to be consumed with our meals. I remember bringing a very expensive Cabernet to one of our Italian meals in St. Helena which upset my grandfather to know end and he had me through it out since he claimed it was vinegar. It was a 1982 Pine Ridge Cabernet.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

ROBERT: From vineyards planted during President Grover Cleveland’s first term in the 1880s, this wine offers luscious blackberry and wild raspberry with loads of exotic spices and indigenous bramble, and is elegant in style with a smooth blackberry satin finish. This is a bold Zinfandel of massive proportions. Yields were approximately 1.5 tons per acre. Aged exclusively in French oak Burgundy barrels. Big, black & balanced. Only 325 cases produced.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ROBERT: Pork, chicken or roast beef with olive oil, garlic, sage, roasted potatoes and pasta and/or polenta with wild mushrooms.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Sonoma Valley so special?

ROBERT: The excellent soils, cool nights and warm days.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ROBERT: Blending and racking the wine to obtain the perfectly balanced wine with a smooth and satin finish with excellent and robust distinctive flavor.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

ROBERT: Drink the wine with food and do not be afraid to drink the wine young as well as every year while the wines ages to experience the full rainbow or spectrum of how a wine matures over the years.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

ROBERT: May you drink wine all the days of your life with family and friends around the dinner table with home cooked extraordinary meals. May wine contribute to a long, healthy and happy life. Salute’

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

2005 St. Clement Vineyards Armstrong Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Stretch Armstrong

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a library vintage Bordeaux style blend from Napa Valley’s St. Clement Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: St. Clement Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 St. Clement Cabernet Sauvignon, Armstrong Ranch, Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley

Winemaker: Danielle Cyrot

Backgrounder: Today, The Wine Spies return to our old friends, St. Clement Vineyards. We are very fortunate to be able to show their extraordinary wines and today we bring you a particularly great one. The Diamond District AVA (American Viticultural Area) sits at the northern most tip of the Napa Valley, in the Mayacamas Mountains. The higher elevation of the region sees more direct sunlight and less cooling that the rest of the valley, leading to the production of some of the most concentrated and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon in the entire Napa Valley.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby red with clear and slightly darker heart and concentrated color, right out to the rim of the glass, where fine pink-ruby hued edges dance in the light. On giving the wine a swirl, the surface of the wine shows as softly springy look. It settles quickly, leaving behind tightly-spaced clusters of tears that start off chubby and then go thin as the make their way down the glass

Smell – Lush and bright, led by ripe blackberry, boysenberry and dark cherry. These aromas are quickly joined by soft dried meats, fresh bramble, plum, cassis and black pepper. Just below the surface, a hint of freshly picked Serrano pepper peeks through

Feel – Velvet smooth, lush and soft, this wine starts off tender and round, and then fine-grained tannins make a gradual appearance that eventually leads to a soft, around the mouth dryness

Taste – Delicious and complex with balanced flavors of blackberry, blueberry compote, dusty dried rose petals, sweet red plum, black pepper and soft cinnamon

Finish – Long and bright, with softly tart flavors that linger. After a few long moments, a gentle dryness is introduced, making your mouth water – and reminding you to take another sip of this great wine

Conclusion – The 2005 Armstrong Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Clement is another remarkable treat from a winery that we have come to expect the greatest wines from. Winemaker Danielle Cyrot continues to impress us with her remarkable skills. Today’s wine is a somewhat more light-hearted interpretation of a Howell Mountain Cab than we have become accustom to. While there is great depth and plenty of character present in this wine, you’ll find it to be quite palate friendly, and more food friendly than other examples from the region. In other words, your mouth will not be blasted by the wine. Instead, this wine is a delightful compliment. We enjoyed our review bottle with a wide array of foods, including a Thai papaya salad, grilled flank steak, curry potato croquettes and clay-pot roasted blackened chicken. These were unusual choices, to be sure, but the wine complimented each with ease. This wine gets our very big Wine Spies recommendation!

Mission Report:

The following is an extract from our first-encounter mission report, in which Agent White first becomes acquainted with our now-good friends at St. Clement:

It was perhaps the strangest of locations to start a wine mission. I entered the church and as the instructions indicated, I was to go to the second pew and show penance. As I knelt, in the pew, I noticed a book with a bookmark in it. Looking more closely, it was a history of the Papacy and the page that was bookmarked was about Pope Clement I (Clemens Romanus), who is also known as St. Clement. No being sure if this was the clue, I stayed for another hour and beyond the woman practicing on the organ, nobody came or went from the church.

Back at HQ, I entered in our research computer the search term ‘Clement’ and found that indeed, the bookmark was a clue. All signs pointed in the direction of St. Clement Vineyards in Napa Valley. We had an asset who could get us some additional intel so I PIN messaged Agent Malbec and within a few hours a courier had delivered a bottle of the St. Clement to our front company.

The bottle was immediately taken to the lab for analysis. The results were clear; It was an almost perfect wine, with fruit from one of the best vineyards in Napa. St. Clement had been on our radar for a couple months. Their winemaker Danielle Cyrot, with a long lineage of European winemakers was making quite a name for herself.

But as we always say, the proof is in the juice… Lab results, research, walks through the vineyards are all nice, but its in the glass that matters… Well, there’s no knelling for St. Clement wines. After tasting it, we were jumping for joy.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of St. Clement Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.