2005 Reverdito Michele ‘Badarina’ Barolo DOCG

Mission Codename: Barolo Bada-BING!

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional single vineyard Barolo worthy of our operatives’ tables and cellars

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Reverdito Michele

Wine Subject: 2001 Barolo ‘Badarina’ DOCG

Winemaker: Michele Reverdito

Backgrounder:

The greatest of all Italian wines are arguably made with from the Nebbiolo grape. Barolo, from the Piedmont made this grape famous, and for good reason. Most people don’t give Barolo enough time and drink them young, but those patient enough to wait at least 7 – 8 years, and often as much as 20 plus years are handsomely rewarded with a wine that is the ultimate expression of the grape. The most prized bottlings of Barolo are those from an exceptional single vineyard.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and deep ruby with orange and brick hues along the edges and a dark clear core. Slow fat legs ring the glass that are followed by fat tears that hang for an extended time before slowly descending to the wine below.

Smell – This wine has a redolent nose that hits you immediately upon pulling the cork. Aromas of smokey and tangy blackberry and raspberry fruit are layered over floral violets, earth, zesty Italian tar, and cedar Highly complex, aromas of fresh white pepper and tobacco reveals themselves as the wine opens up.

Feel – Full-bodied, bold and dry, with firm highly textured, almost powdered, grippy tannins (softens as it breathes) that coats the far reaches of the palate. Exceptional acidity and a solid spiciness lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Serious and exacting, this bold wine balances its complex spice, floral and cedar over restrained tangy and tart red and black fruit. Zesty tar, tobacco, earth and a tiny hint of licorice emerge and linger framing the fruit perfectly.

Finish – Extremely long with blackberry, raspberry and sour cherry dance over the palate as this wine’s textured tannins linger with slowly fading white pepper spice.

Conclusion – This single vineyard Barolo is a classic old-world wine that is both focused and restrained. This wine’s grippy textured tannins hold on tight and don’t let go. The epitome of Barolo is its bold power. Pair this classic with everything simple buttered tagliatelle noodles and shaved truffles to Osso Buco. If enjoying this wine now, be sure to give it plenty of time or decant, otherwise cellar it for up to ten or more years. Cin Cin!

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of the mission when we first discovered Reverdito Michele.

After last week’s dangerous mission I needed to get back on a firm footing, plus we still hadn’t located Agent Baco Noir. We had lost contact with her in Tuscany, but my gut told me to head back to the Piedmont to pick up her trail.

And why not, anyone who follows our missions knows her (and mine also) love for the wines of Northwest Italy. In particular, Barolo, which is, in my humble opinion, in my top three of all Italian wine styles (before you jump all over me, the others are Amarone della Valpolicella and Brunello di Montalcino).

Unfortunately, may of the greatest of these wines are either inaccessible or drunk too young. I’m as impatient as the next wino, but if you can wait, you’ll be handsomely rewarded.

I made my way to Alba, an old medieval town, south of Torino, made famous for its White Truffle Festival, held each October, and of course Rocher Ferrero chocolate! I always love exploring the back roads in Italian villages. I stumbled into a small cafe/wine bar in the Piazza del Duomo, initially planning to simply enjoy a coffee, but to my surprise, at an adjacent table, was the young and dynamic Michele Reverdito, owner and winemaker of Azienda Agricola Reverdito Michele.

I immediately recognized him since we have featured one of his exceptional Barbarescos earlier in the year. Michele invited me to his table, and asked if I would like a glass of wine.

”Coffee is fine for now, its been a long day travelling”, I responded.

”Are you sure?, I have a bottle of my 2001 Barolo Bricci Cogni, I think you should try it…”

”In that case, why not!”, I responded, thinking to myself, who? in their right mind, would decline a taste of a single vineyard Barolo, especially from such an exceptional winemaker?

The look on my face must have been a total give away, I was immediately transported. There is just something about enjoying a great wine, with great food, in a great little Italian piazza, its just quite simply heaven. In a word, this wine is magnificent!

I guess my search for Baco would just have to wait…

Top Secret Message to Agent Baco Noir:

OPS SEEKING CONTACT WITH YOU… NEEDS TASTING NOTES ON YOUR WINERIES UNDER SURVEILLANCE… CONTACT WHITE POST HASTE

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate location of Reverdito Michele’s vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Indigene Cellars Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Original

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return the the Santa maria Valley, in search of a fantastic Pinot Noir, worthy of our Operative’s exacting tastes for Pinot

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Indigene Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Raymond Smith

Backgrounder: California’s Central Coast region, and specifically Santa Barbara and San Luis Obisbo County has become one of the state’s premier regions for Pinot Noir. The generally warmer climate, moderated by the coastal fog, its sandy and clay loam soil, and broad exposure results in Pinot of exceptional purity

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy in color, with edge highlights that glimmer shining pink. The wine is slightly opaque through its concentrated core. When swirled, the wine shows a slightly loft bounce. It settles quickly, leaving behind tight clusters of skinny legs that streak down the glass

Smell – Lush and bright, great cherry, cranberry and cassis lead the way. These are followed, quickly, by more earthen aromas of soft forest floor, leather, brown spice, anise and black pepper

Feel – Taught and soft on the initial attack. Then, soft tannins take gentle hold at the edges of the mouth, gently drying the mid palate, the tongue, lips and cheeks – with a soft minerality

Taste – Bright cherry, cranberry, and young strawberry lead the way, with follow-on flavors of cigar box, subtle leather, soft brown spice and dried fall leaves

Finish – A long finish that is extended when the wine has been well decanted. The wine starts darkly juicy and goes slightly tart. Then, soft spice appears as flavors gently tail off

Conclusion – This youthful wine benefits from decanting. After thirty minutes, the wine opens up and the fruit and other subtle flavors emerge, to reveal a wine that was not even there upon opening; It is delicious, soft and full of subtle complexities. Our tasting panel spent a long time experimenting with the wine, reveling in the way that flavors and aromas continued to emerge long after our first sips. The bright acids in the wine made it a great companion to our homemade brick-oven pizzas. The variety of pizza toppings was dizzying – but the wine matched beautifully with all of them. Cheers to Raymond Smith for allowing us access to this delightful Pinot Noir! Enjoy now, but hold a few bottles for even greater drinking pleasure.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Raymond Smith

DATE OF BIRTH: 11/1962

PLACE OF BIRTH: Oakland, California

WINE EDUCATION: Fresno State and UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Owner, mobile bottling service for premium California winemakers. Owner, Indigene Cellars

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I find fruit sources and varietals that are as close to native as possible. I also select isolated clones, and produce wines of higher acidity and lower alcohol content

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Bordeaux Blends

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Listen closely to thee vineyard”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Ray. We are thrilled to be showing your Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Thank you for having me.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: I’m a mobile bottler I have taken courses and made wines and asked questions to perform a better service

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

WINEMAKER: I try to build a strong platform in the vineyard with isolated clones and optimum growing conditions and then I quietly ad my wine styles in small patterns

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

WINEMAKER: I try to build a strong platform in the vineyard with isolated clones and optimum growing conditions and then I quietly ad my wine styles in small patterns

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: Greg Vita expanded my wine vision But Christian Tietje helped me find my pallet and use more resources available to me

RED: How long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: 17 Years making wine

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: I make wines formatted towards the consumer I make pieces of art for the people who dare to be different

RED: Tell me, what makes the Santa Maria Valley so special?

WINEMAKER: Cold climate fruit with coastal influence where some varietals are harvested at close to the same time give you more choices of fermentation styles and exhibit more earth characters

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WINEMAKER: Imagine yourself as part of the process, the closer you get to the wines the easier to exhibit your influences

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: Choosing the right barrel combination for blends, varietals, etc.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: 100% Martini Clone Pinot Noir, Hand crafted to exhibit the unique characters of high pitched fruit forward nuances and spicy finishes of Pinot Noir the isolated clones show the natural beauty and is easy to build your wine style around it

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: Herb and Garlic Cornish game hens

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

WINEMAKER: I am totally approachable ….that I am more adapt to help the next winemaker to keep true to the art

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WINEMAKER: Treana Red Table wine

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WINEMAKER: With my wines you should take time and taste the nuance, don’t just drink the wine but taste the wines and enjoys the subtle notes that I prepared for your enjoyment

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WINEMAKER: There’s so many beautiful wines out there (Foreign and domestic) it would not be possible to make a choice

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WINEMAKER: It would be “what is the new blend or wine that you have planned to release next “ and the answer would be “I can keep a secret”

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WINEMAKER: Thank you for your time and attention

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The vineyard where today’s wine was born can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Trinitas Cellars Russian River Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Final Call

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Revisit Trinitas Cellars, raid their library, and procure all remaining bottles of their superb 2004 Bacigalupi-grown Petite Sirah for our PS-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trinitas Cellars

Wine Subject: 2004 Petite Sirah – Bacigalupi Vineyard – Russian River Valley

Winemaker: Matthew A. Cline

Backgrounder: Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Today’s Petite comes hails from grapes grown by the world renown Bacigalupi family, whose vineyards in the Russian River Valley are legendary

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A gorgeous deep beet root color, with violet highlights and glinting pink edges. The wine has a clear but darkening heart and the wine shows a tight surface that settles quickly when swirled. When the wine snaps back to settled, color-stained legs take a long time to emerge – before they crawl slowly down the glass

Smell – A big bold rush of delicious, real fresh plum, fresh jammy blackberry, blueberry, cassis, soft oak and brown spices, followed by tones of brown sugar, vanilla and blackest cherry

Feel – Soft and wet on the attack, light-weight at the tip of the tongue. Then, quickly but subtly, a mid-palate dryness makes a softly grippy appearance, coating the mouth with medium dry tannins

Taste – Delicious and fruity, spicy and bold, leading with dark mixed berries, black cherry, cassis, black licorice, soft oak and cracked black pepper, capped off with a hint of tasty forest floor

Finish – Slightly dry and very lush with layers of dark flavors that start sweet and ripe, but then tail off slightly tart as a soft mineral coatingis left behind – while flavors tail off slowly

Conclusion – In a word: Wow!. Our dear friends at Trinitas Cellars have scored big with this wine by sourcing fruit from the Russian River Valley vineyards of the Bacigalupi Family, a multi-generational wine growing family with a reputation for growing some of the finest fruit available. Today’s very limited wine is sure to sell out, so please do not delay if you love great Petite Sirah. We got our hands on all remaining stock. This is a big, layered, delicious and beautifully balanced wine with plenty of character. The wine is bold, but not overpowering. In fact, I would havee to declare it to be one of the finest Petit Sirah I have tried. I love this wine. I am certain that you will, too. If you manage to get your hands on some!

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of Agent Red’s original mission when he visited Trinitas Cellars:

Located at the southern end of the Napa Valley, nestled behind the Meritage Resort & Spa and buried in and underground cave, lies a remarkable secret: Trinitas Cellars.

Trinitas first came to my attention while on stakeout during a prior mission. I was on a vetting mission and was keeping an eye on a potential new asset. If this person proved to have the connections that she was reported to, I’d be recruiting her by days end.

I had followed her to the Meritage Resort, when she was having what looked to be a poolside meeting with a group I recognized as some heavy-hitters in the biz. These guys are all business and so I knew that my target must have the chops that her dossier suggested.

A waitress offered me a menu but I politely waved it away. Instead, I simply asked her for a glass of their best house Pinot Noir.

The wine arrived. The waitress set it down on the table in front of me. I handed her a $20 and told her to keep the change. I sat and watched my target for some time before finally picking up the wine.

I inhaled deeply – and the hairs on my neck stood up. This, I could tell, was one excellent wine! I spent the next several minutes enraptured by the wine. It was a young wine, I could tell, but it was very impressive.

When I finally looked up, my target was gone! How could I let myself be so distracted? On scanning the area, my eyes came to rest on an anomaly in the landscape; The hill that sat behind me, over my right shoulder, was obviously manmade. I had seen enough ‘hills’ like this to know that it was a wine cave!

I got to my feet and dashed toward the hill. Cleverly concealed as it might have been, I quickly found the entrance. Once inside I made my way through the cavern, eventually finding – a full tasting room!

And there, at the bar, was my target and her cohorts.

The woman behind the bar beamed at me and said, “Welcome to Trinitas Cellars!”

Trinitas, eh? This requires deeper investigation…

Agent Red, out!

Agent White, reporting:

Is Agent Red losing it? Does he need glasses? The sign above the wine cave clearly reads, “Trinitas Cellars”. At least he returned to HQ with samples of that Pinot Noir. The Pinot, of course, turned out to be a 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir from Trinitas – and today we are proud to present you with an opportunity to try this special wine for yourself.

As for Agent Red and his mission worthiness, we are recommending that he be placed under closer scrutiny. His wine-finding skills are still top-notch, but his methods and his reports leave just a tad to be desired!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trinitas Cellars cave tasting room and winery can be seen, behind the Meritage Resport & Spa, in this satellite photo.

2005 Artesa Vineyards and Winery Napa / Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Best of Both Worlds

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a special allocation of Artesa’s Napa / Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Artesa Vineyards and Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Napa / Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Mark Beringer

Backgrounder:

The fruit for this delicious wine was sourced from Napa Valley, Alexander Valley and Knights Valley. Napa Valley is, of course, well known for its expectational quality Cabernet Sauvignon.

Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Knights Valley AVA, along highway 128 is located in Sonoma County at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains and next to Napa County. It is a small 55 square miles with about 1000 acres under vine. The gravel and rock soil and higher relative altitude is most influential to the exceptional Cabernet that grows there. The rustic and rural region is well known for its traditional northern California style.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful dark garnet and ruby with deep ruby-red reflections through its bright clear core. Along the edges the color lightens slight to ruby red and when swirled fat legs ‘appear’ on the side of the glass.

Smell – Medium bold in intensity with balanced aromas of ripe and tart black cherry and other black and red fruit, oak, and baking spices. A touch of smoke and dark mocha emerges along with subtle kernel notes.

Feel – This dry full-bodied wine is smooth and rich with finely-textured medium-firm tannins that are balanced over a kick of soft spice and bright acidity that lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Ripe and focused, great flavors of black and red cherry, are layered over sentimental baking spice and oak notes. A touch of smoke and dark mocha and vanilla adds a very approachable complexity to this wine.

Finish – Focused and clean, with lingering dark fruit, brown spice and smokey oak that makes the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Artesa Vineyards and Winery Napa / Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious and shows its focused fruit extremely well. Layered into the ripe and rich fruit are brown baking spice, oak, smoke and mocha makes this wine super easy to enjoy. A lovely textured full-bodied structure stands up to food and will allow this wine to cellar for several years to come.

Mission Report:

What follows, for your enjoyment, is a recap of Agent White’s original mission to Artesa, back in early 2009:

Finally, I was able to wrangle a choice assignment away from Agent Red! And, while he did all of the leg work for today’s mission, I get the glory.

Red had Artesa under surveillance for a long time, probably too long. I all fairness, he did gather a great deal on intel on the winery and that set the stage for my quick infiltration. If any mission goes on for too long, I am usually the one that is called on to complete the mission – and get the wine.

Read Agent Red’s mission updates in the W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine for our newest Operatives) archives. For my part, I’ll just tell you that a couple of calls to senior management at Artesa was all it took to secure today’s wine.

Rather than bore you with those details, I do want to point out a few things about Artesa and their world-class team.

If you ever find yourself in Napa, a visit to Artesa is not just recommended, it is essential. The winery grounds, sculpture gardens, architecture, and winery are magnificent. One has the feeling of visiting a world-class art museum, a winery and even a place of worship when spending time at Artesa.

In my case, the winery was the place of worship! For all of Artesa’s ambiance and style, the winery is really the divine place where their great wines are born. A few afternoon hours with the great counter staff – spent tasting through their wines – was such a delightful treat. The people, like the wines, were great fun.

Artesa in the U.S. is the extension of a Spanish winemaking family that dates back to the year 1551, when the Codorníu family first made wine at Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, in the Penedès region of Spain, just west of Barcelona.

The family continues making wines for centuries and in 1872, becomes the first in the world to make sparkling wines outside of Champagne in the méthode champenoise. This revolutionizes Spain’s wine industry.

In 1897, Codorníu is declared the exclisive supplier of wine to the king of Spain, King Alfonso XIII.

In 1915, the Codorníu winery build the world’s largest wine cellars, with five subterranean levels extending 16 miles.

The winery continues to grow and gain in prestige and honor for the next several decades. In 1989, they break ground on a revolutionary new winery in the Napa Valley. In 1991, Codorníu Napa opens as a méthode champenoise facility in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. Those of you that know our tastes, know that The Wine Spies are enamored with the Carneros region.

In 1999, the winery is renamed Artesa Winery and releases its inaugural wines – two Chardonnays, three Pinot Noirs, and a Sauvignon Blanc – to critical acclaim.

Earlier this year, the winery is joined by one of America’s only multi-generational winemakers, Mark Beringer. In the United States, ‘multi-generational’ in winemaking usually means two or three generations have been involved in the craft. Mark, whose great, great grandfather was winemaking pioneer, Jacob Beringer, is a fifth generation winemaker and head of winemaking for Artesa today.

Throughout his career, Mark has been recognized as a leader and a pioneer in the field of winemaking. He has received numerous kudos and awards, including Winemaker of the Year by The San Francisco Chronicle.

If you can’t make it out to Artesa, at least you’ll be able to get a taste of the place by picking up a few bottles of today’s great Atresa wine.

As for Agent Red, don’t feel too bad for him. He was pretty bummed out that I was able to close the deal with Artesa, but that case of Artesa Cab I secured for him is keeping him plenty happy. For the moment!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Artesa Vineyards and Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Sausal Winery Private Reserve Zinfandel

Mission Codename: Ninety and Spry

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Sausal Winery and secure a high-value Old Vine Zinfandel for our Operatives around the world

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Sausal Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Private Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel, Alexander Valley

Winemaker: Dave Demostene

Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Alexander Valley Zinfandels, which are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark cherry juice, with deep color concentration right through the wine’s darker hear and out to it’s light ruby edges. This wine shows a tight surface that snaps back to still, when swirled. As soon as it settles, ropey legs appear, making their way slowly down the glass

Smell – Soft and fragrant, with perfumed aromas of cherry, blackberry, raspberry and cassis. These sit atop earthen dried leaves, soft vanilla and subtle toasted oak

Feel – Soft and wet on initial attack, then a mineral dryness spreads across the palate, from the tip of the tongue to the back of the mouth. The wine takes on a lush and full-bodied feel

Taste – Tart and bright, initially. Then softer and more fruit-driven flavors of jammy raspberry and black berry emerge. After a few moment, additional flavors of soft spice, sweetwoods and subtle dark chocolate make a tasty appearance

Finish – Big, bright and juicy flavors taper off slowly, leaving behind a mineral dryness and a balanced tart-sweetness that entices you to take another long sip of this great wine

Conclusion – This thrilling Old Vine Zinfandel is made from vines that are more than ninety years old. Any fan of fruit-driven Zinfandel will enjoy this balanced and very delicious wine. On the palate, flavors evolve and emerge, to reveal a wine that is different than on initial entry. I enjoyed experimenting with this wine, taking sips of different sizes, allowing the wine to sit in my mouth – and giving it ample time to aerate. The experience was one that was varied, fun – and delicious!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Dave Demostene

DATE OF BIRTH: 12/1939

PLACE OF BIRTH: Healdsburg, CA

WINE EDUCATION: After graduating from Cal Poly and completing the wine oenology program at Davis, I worked for 17 years with my father who was a winemaker

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Sausal Winery, Winemaker since 1973

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: The less you do to the wine the better

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Zinfandel

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: 1986 Sausal Family Zinfandel was featured as the 2nd “Great Buy” in 1989 Wine Spectator. At the time it retailed for $6.75 a bottle.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: 2003 Sausal Century Vines Zinfandel was featured as the Zinfandel of the Year with 96 pts in the Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine

WINEMAKER QUOTE: It takes good grapes to make good wine

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Dave. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DAVE: You’re welcome!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DAVE: I grew up in the wine business, watching and helping my father make wine… this was way before it was popular. It was just our way of life then: Growing grapes and making wine.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

DAVE: I learned by watching my father and in those days if someone made a good wine you’d ask them how they made it and they would tell you. It was a small industry then and everyone shared what they did or would be happy to help you out.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

DAVE: I try to get away from the heavy fruit and high alcohol wines. I like a more balanced wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DAVE: My Dad

RED: How long have you been making wine?

DAVE: I’ve been making wine all my life. I started working in the winery when I was 14 years old, after school and on weekends. I did everything: Shoveling pumice, pumping over, and racking wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

DAVE: I make wine that I like and our customers seem to like that too.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

DAVE: The soil and micro climate make this a good area. We have well drained soil, warm days with cool nights and a breeze that blows through the valley. Perfect growing conditions.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

DAVE: Get your basics at school, but then find a winery that makes wine you like to get your apprenticeship from. Work a harvest there to learn how its done.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DAVE: Lately I’ve been blending the 2008 vintage wines and checking barrels.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

DAVE: The Private Reserve Zinfandel is made from vines that are 90 years old and are dry farmed. So the fruit in this wine is concentrated.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DAVE: I love lamb with the Private Reserve

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

DAVE: I like to hunt. Mostly pig, deer and elk

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

DAVE: You can’t go wrong with our Sausal Family Zinfandel

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

DAVE: Our wines are ready to drink when they are released and are made to be enjoyed with food.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

DAVE: Sausal Century Vines Zinfandel. This wine is made from vines that are over 130 years old. It’s soft and elegant. A perfect afternoon sipping wine.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

DAVE: Can Zinfandel age? It depends on the grapes and the vintage, but as a rule old vine Zinfandel can age. The older vines, maybe because their yield is so low, make wine that ages for a long time.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

DAVE: Thank you very much, and I hope you enjoy our wine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Sausal winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Trentadue Winery La Storia Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: History in the bottle

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a pre-release reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Trentadue Winery in Sonoma County’s pristine Alexander Valley

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trentadue

Wine Subject: 2006 Trentadue La Storia Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder: Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Read Agent Red’s detailed tasting notes and winemaker interview, below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet with a darker but perfectly clear heart of deeper garnet. The edges of the wine show a beautiful and brilliant bright ruby red. Spin the wine in the glass and take note of the softly flowing appearance of the wine. When it settles, it leaves behind two levels of tightly-packed and skinny tears that move slowly down the edge of the glass.

Smell – Beautifully fragrant, leading with aromas of bright red candied cherry, raspberry, dark cherry. These are easily accompanied by follow-on aromas of dried fall leaves, soft leather, subtle mint, soft mixed spice and a hint of black licorice.

Feel – Fine and light weight on entry, the more lush and medium bodied. This wine is soft on its initial attack, then medium-fine tannins make an appearance. The wine is bright and mouth-coating, providing your palate with a full and interesting experience.

Taste – Delicious, bright and rich, with flavors that evolve on the palate. Flavors lead with juicy red cherry, blackberry, cassis, sweet red plum, bramble, light spice and a hint of black pepper.

Finish – Clean and crisp, with bright fruit, a soft earthiness and subtle hints of leather and black licorice. The wine evolves in your mouth, moving from lush and soft, to more bright and dry, with soft white minerals.

Conclusion – The 2006 Trentadue La Storia Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious wine that evolves and expands on your palate. Your senses will delight at the gorgeous aromatics, the delicious, emerging flavors and great mouth feel. This is a wine that invites exploration, so be sure to decant and take your time with each glass that you enjoy. Bright and flavorful, this wine is a fantastic companion to most meals. Enjoy some now, but cellar a few bottles for the next several years and be duly rewarded. Cheers to Trentadue and Wine Spies favorite winemaker, Miro Tcholakov (aka Agent KGB)

Mission Report:

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: 02.04.1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country… There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trentadue Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Women of the Vine Cellars Signature Series Syrah

Mission Codename: A Perfect Score

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Respond to continued reports that fabled winemaker, Heidi Barrett, has built a remarkable Syrah for Women of The Vine Cellars. If possible, secure an ample cache for our fine-wine loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Women of The Vine Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Syrah Napa Valley

Winemaker: Heidi Barrett

Backgrounder: Today’s wine is made by the talented and very popular, Heidi Barrett. Ms. Barrett’s award-winning wines are the rare sort of wines that receive stunning 100-point scores. If you are not familiar with her artistry, today’s wine offers you the opportunity to sample her work. Today’s wine is a fantastic wine at a fantastic price.

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delicious Syrah is a delight with original flavors, deep aromatics and a tender mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Intense, deepest dark garnet with dark purple edges. When swirled, alternating fast and slow legs that show off soft hues from the wine ring the glass

Smell – Pronounced ripe red cherry, blackberry and cassis lead the charge. These are soon followed by soft spice, pepper, dried red rose petals and soft dried meats. After some time in the glass, soft aromas of violet and lavender emerge

Feel – Feather-light and semi-round on the entry, then quickly dry and grippy at the mid-palate with a medium tannic structure that leads to a full and robust mouthfeel. Affter a spell, a slight herbaceous mineral quality appears

Taste – Concentrated and bold, with bright flavors of cherry, bold blackberry, spicy blueberry, cassis, subtle cranberry, spice, black pepper and dried flowers

Finish – Solid, flavorful and long finish with sweet, dusky fruit, lingering oak and a slight tartness that is balanced by a soft earthen oak

Conclusion – This is a very impressive Syrah, which is no surprise, considering that Heidi Barrettt made it from the finest Napa Valley fruit available. This deliciously rich Syrah is drinking just beautifully and I believe that it will continue to progress for a few more years as well. Be sure to decant this wine for at least an hour for the best results. The patient will be rewarded with a wine that is far softer and far more flavorful than on first opening. I am thrilled to be able to bring you this superb wine today and give it my hearty recommendation!

Mission Report:

Today’s fantastic wine comes to us from a unique woman with a unique vision: Deborah Brenner, author of Women of the Vine, Founder & CEO of Women of the Vine Cellars – A Celebration of Wine & Women!

Inspired while writing the book Women of the Vine, author Deborah Brenner created the first-of-its-kind winery. Women of the Vine Cellars unites award winning women winemakers under one brand. Featuring hand-crafted and limited production wines, it is the first “Art Gallery” designed to showcase their individual styles and nuances of their regions

AGENT RED: Greetings, Deborah Brenner. We are thrilled to be showing your Women of the Vine Signature Series wine, made by award winning winemaker, Heidi Peterson Barrett. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DEBORAH: Thanks, Agent Red. It’s a pleasure to be going on this mission with you today. I’ve compiled a briefing dossier on Heidi Peterson Barrett (follows below). Did you know that she is the only person (man or woman) to get five 100 pt. perfect scores from Robert Parker!

RED: That is very impressive. It shows in her remarkable wines. Thanks, again, for allowing us this exclusive opportunity to showcase this wine for our Operatives today. We look forward to working with you on your other Signature Series wines in the future.

DEBORAH: Sure thing, Agent Red. By the way, my spies tell me that you are a competition fencer as well!

RED: (surprised) How did you find that out?!

DEBORAH: Never underestimate a woman of the vine!

WINEMAKER INTEL DOSSIER

Heidi Peterson Barrett

Heidi Peterson Barrett grew up in the Napa Valley in a winemaking family and was destined to become one of California’s leading winemakers. It is said that winemaking is a combination of science and art. With a scientist-winemaker father and an artist mother it is no big surprise that Heidi was drawn to the wine industry. With great enthusiasm, a love for what she does, and an incredible wealth of experience, Heidi blends the art and science of winemaking like few can.

Through high school, she spent her summers in wineries and vineyards, taking on all jobs from sorting vine cuttings to bottling line work. She then continued her winemaking education at UC Davis. While at Davis she was an assistant to Dr. Ann Noble, the developer of the aroma wheel. Heidi also did an internship at a large co-op winery in southern Germany, which produced many varieties of wine, both whites and reds. There she learned the art of making balanced wines, no matter what the variety.

After graduating from UC Davis in 1980 with a B.S. Degree in Fermentation Science, she went to work for Justin Meyer at Franciscan Vineyards and Silver Oak. After subsequent crush jobs at both Lindeman’s Wines in Australia and Rutherford Hill, in 1981 Heidi became assistant winemaker to Jerry Luper at Bouchaine Vineyards. Then in 1983, at age 25 became winemaker at Buehler Vineyards. It was here that she first attracted critical acclaim by greatly improving the wine quality and taking the production from 6,000 cases to 20,000 cases. This wide range of experience has given Heidi a unique insight into winemaking. ” I think it is important to have a wide variety of experience to draw from. You can’t just step in and be the winemaker unless you have a lot of experience in the cellar. I wanted to make sure that when I finally had the title of winemaker, I had earned it.”

In 1988, she left Buehler to become an independent winemaker (freelance), making wine for a number of small wineries. Within a week she was hired by Gustav Dalle Valle and was winemaker at Dalle Valle Vineyards until spring 1996. It was there that she took her abilities to the next level, putting Dalle Valle on the map and creating some powerful yet elegant Cabernets, including the famous “Maya” wine, a proprietary Cabernet blend that received two perfect 100 point scores from Robert Parker ( the ‘92 and ‘93) as well as record breaking bids at the Napa Valley Wine Auction. She started making wine for Screaming Eagle in 1992, which has also received two perfect 100 pt scores (the ‘92 and recent ‘97). A 6-liter bottle of ‘92 SE set a world record for the highest price ever paid for a single bottle of wine at the 2000 Napa Valley Wine Auction selling for $500,000. A vertical offering went for $650,000 at the 2001 NVWA.

Since 1988 she has developed a stellar client list of super and ultra-premium wineries. She is currently winemaker for La Sirena, Amuse Bouche, Paradigm, Revana, Barbour, Lamborn, and Fantesca. She is consulting winemaker for the new Kenzo Estate. Other past clients include Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle, Jones Family, Rubicon, Grace Family, Vineyard 29, David Arthur, and Showket.
Heidi, who loves the ocean and especially scuba diving, also started making her own wine, La Sirena in 1994 with a tiny production of Sangiovese. “I was looking for a name for my wine which would be as magical as I think wine is. La Sirena which means “the Mermaid” in Italian and Spanish is a way of representing two of my great passions”. In 1996 she made the first Cabernet Sauvignon for La Sirena and in 2000 the first Syrah.
She has been a wine judge at various competitions over the last 20 years, was president of Napa Valley Wine Tech, and has graced the covers of both The Wine News and The Wine Enthusiast. She has been a featured guest on several television programs, was winemaker of the year, made Parker’s list of wine personalities of the year 1994,1995 and is on Parker’s wine heroines list of 1998 (one of two from the US). Parker has dubbed her the “first lady of wine”. TIME Magazine named her “The Wine Diva of Napa ”.

Heidi lives in Calistoga with her husband, Bo (winemaker at Chateau Montelena) and their two daughters, Remi and Chelsea.

2006 Maison Bouachon ‘Duc de Montfort’ Gigondas

Mission Codename: The Left Bank

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red on an undercover mission to France, to discover a fantastic and very limited Gigondas. Procure any available bottles for our deserving Francophone Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Maison Bouachon

Wine Subject: 2006 Duc De Montfort Gigondas AOC

Backgrounder:

The Gigondas AOC is located just across the river from the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and adjacent to the famed villages of Lirac and Tavel. Under the watchful eye of the dramatically rugged Dentelles de Montmirail, known for its lacy look and not teeth as most visitors assume (Dentelle means lace, dents means teeth in French).

The wines of Gigondas must be made with no more than 80% Grenache, at least 15% of Syrah and Mourvedre with the remainder being no more than 10% of any local grape except Carignan. Today wine, from Maison Bouachon, is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet with pretty edges of ruby red to slightly lilac – in the right light. The core is darker, but maintains good clarity throughout. When swirled, the wine shows as tightly springy. When it settles, it leaves behind thick, branching tears that emerge quickly before running quickly down the edges of the glass

Smell – Medium intensity with an initial rush of spiced fruit, with notes of cherry, plum and cassis. These intermingle with white pepper, hints of black olive and earthy truffle

Feel – This medium bodied wine has a smooth and rich feel. The wine is dry and firm, with smoothly textured tannins that coat the mouth.

Taste – Bing cherry and strawberry on the attack, then darker and concentrated plum, herbs, black pepper and earthy dried mushroom and tangy sweetwoods appear. These are backed by solid acidity and flinty spice. Flavors evolve on the palate, moving from sweet and tart, to more mineral-dry – and then back to sweet – well into the finish

Finish – Clean and long with flavors and sensations that evolve as a lingering minerality and textured tannins firmly hold the fruit and mineral characteristics in check as flavors tail off slowly

Conclusion – This is a very interesting and delicious wine that took me by surprise. While Gigondas has often been called “poor man’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape”, I contend that this wine is just as good as – or even better than – some CDPs I have had the pleasure to try. Where Chateauneuf is often reported to be bolder and more spicy than a Gigondas, today’s wine has plenty of character, including a good amount of spice. Allow the wine time to open up, and be rewarded with richer and more authentic fruit flavors.

Mission Report:

The Wine Spies are always excited when our assets bring us exclusive wines (today’s selection is only available at retail through The Wine Spies) of character and distinction, especially when they are from regions and Terroirs that have real history.

The Gigondas AOC, often overlooked by its neighbor Chateauneuf-du-Pape is just one of those places. While we love Chateauneuf-du-Pape, we find that the wines from Gigondas, while having similar flavors are not as intense on the palate. That’s not to say that these wines lack focus, quite the contrary. These wines are approachable and fun but also show classic aromas and flavors that we love so much.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Gigondas AOC in France’s southern Rhone can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Poem Cellars Tastevin Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: A fork and a knife

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Scour the Napa Valley and secure a premium quality Napa Cabernet Sauvignon for our demanding Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Poem Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Tastevin Cabernet Sauvignon – Napa Valley

Winemaker: Jason Moore

Backgrounder: Napa Valley is revered worldwide as the ultimate area in which to produce fine Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 vintage has produced some remarkable examples and we were lucky to get our spy-hands on today’s fine offering from Poem Cellars. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report, below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy, this wine maintains its deeply concentrated color, right through its darker heart and out to it fine ruby hued edges. When you swirl this wine, it appears to have a softly bouncy surface. When it settles, it leaves behind tight clusters of medium legs that emerge immediately – and then streak down the glass

Smell – Bold and dark, with a big initial rush of dark blackberry, black plum, currant, black cherry, earthen pepper, dried herbs and a hint of dark chocolate

Feel – Round and velvety smooth on the initial attack, then light weight across the mid palate. Toward the back of the mouth and at the edges, the wine become grippy as mid-weight tannins take hold, introducing a softly mineral dryness

Taste – This wine leads off with dark and rich flavors of blackberry, tart red plum, cassis, black currant and softly smoky raspberry. These are accompanied by soft tobacco, pepper and soft cedar

Finish – Starts dusky and dark and then finishes sweet, softly spicy and smoky-tart with dark fruit flavors of dark mixed berry and red plum

Conclusion – A delicious wine that delivers the classic rich flavors and bold character associated with the fine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine also has a brightness to it that makes it an excellent food companion. Decant this wine for an extended period for best results. The longer you swirl and savor, the more you will be rewarded with the delicious fruit of this lovely wine.

Mission Report:

Today’s wine is one of those great hidden gems. It is so exclusive and so rare and so fantastic, that I was lucky to even get my hands on some for today’s special feature.

Consider that there were only fifty cases of this wine produced, and consider that I was able to procure the last few cases – and you’ll know that my luck was full-tilt!

As a regular Operative, you know that we feature the best wines from many of the wineries that you already know. You also know that I try to give equal time to lesser-know wineries – particularly when those usually-smaller wineries are those that produce some of the most amazing wines available.

I won’t prattle on about Big Wine vs. The Little Guy. You already know that both are well capable of producing incredible wines. I’ll just say that i am very proud to be able to take the time to seek out the best wines for you, dear Operative, and today’s wine certainly qualifies!

Cheers to you. Cheers to Poem Cellars.

Mumm Napa Valley Brut Rosé

Mission Codename: The Son of Venus

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: With Valentine’s Day rapidly approaching, locate a stellar bubbly for our romance-minded Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mumm Napa

Wine Subject: Mumm Napa Brut Rosé (Formerly, Mumm Napa Blanc de Noirs)

Winemaker: Ludovic Dervi

Backgrounder: For today’s selection, we sent Agent Red out in search of a sparkling wine worthy of our romantically inclined Operatives from around the country. After an arduous search, Red returns with a secret cache of Mumm Napa’s delicious Napa Napa Brut Rosé, a tender, flavor-filled and very romantic sparkler. Read his detailed tasting notes and mission report below, which includes an interview with Mumm winemaker Ludovic Dervin

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A gorgeous soft pink with glinting coral highlights, this wine shows of a gentle cascade of never-ending bubbles of mixed sizes

Smell – Initially slightly floral, deep inhalations of this wine reveal soft cherry, young strawberry, soft pear and softer peach. These are accompanied by citrus zest and slate minerals

Feel – This is a soft and sensuous wine on the tongue, with no hard edges or the sort of in-the-mouth rush of bubbles that can be present in other sparkling wines. Overall, the wine maintains a soft wetness that goes only slightly dry on swallowing it

Taste – Delicious, with layers of flavor, including young strawberry, dark cherry, soft lemon, pear and soft apricot

Finish – Initially very wet medium-bodied, the goes slightly dry as flavors dwindle off slowly. As flavors fade, the mouth waters, inviting another delicious sip

Conclusion – This is a fantastic sparkler – at a fantastic price! If you are looking for a delicious Valentine’s Day treat to enjoy with some special, or if you just love sparkling Rosé , this is an easy choice. Regular followers of our wine adventures know that we continue to have a special relationship with this special winery. This is simply because we love their great sparkling wines. Happy Valentine’s Day to you, dear Operative. Make a fellow Agent happy this year, by surprising them with this very special sparkling Rosé .

Mission Report:

What follows is a mission recap, from a previous Mumm Napa mission:

It was a high level meeting of all of our overseas operatives. HQ wanted to have a rare face-to-face. We needed to get on the same page and refocus our efforts. I, Agent Sparkle, was tasked with arranging the summit.

Choosing the location was easy; I just had to get us all to the Monterey safe-house. Agents from around the world arrived. It was good to see Agent Baco Noir in the flesh, in her signature Italian pumps. Agent J played pilot to Agent Terroir and Agent White, flying them both in in her Citation X. They had come all the way from France for the meeting (stay tuned for the results of that ongoing mission). Agent Red arrived a little late but, as a founder of The Wine Spies, he can get away with it.

Agent Grenache, the heavy-lifter of the group, fresh cleaning up our latest logistical nightmare, was in attendance. So, too, were Agent Neutron and Agent Orange (our hipster Paso Robles Operatives), Agent Noir (Monterey), and Agent Smith (you read about him in Agent Red’s mission report of yesterday). Also in attendance were a select group our Agent’s field assets, moles, and confidential informants.

The meeting room was packed. So was the agenda: There were extended tastings to conduct, technical analysis, sessions on trade-craft, research on trends and perhaps most importantly, the latest harvest reports.

It was a long and grueling day and thankfully Agent Red arranged a great after-conference BBQ, Aussie style, in my honor. He arranged the dinner, but I had arranged the refreshment of the evening, a beautiful sparkling wine from my newest friends, Mumm Napa.

Mumm Napa’s Reserve Brut became an instant favorite from the moment I first placed the winery under surveillance. It took some skillful subterfuge to procure enough to serve at our gathering – and to keep enough for our well-deserving Operatives for today’s offering. We’re sorry that you weren’t able to attend our conference, but I am sure that today’s superb bubbly is consolation enough.

The day behind us, the BBQ was in full swing. We were having a great time, and I just love the fall along the California coast. It was the perfect way to finish the days activities, watching the sun set into the mighty Pacific – with a glass of Champagne in hand.

Agent Terroir raised his glass and said, “A mes amis et à un grand avenir!, A votre sante!”. He took a sip and smiled at Agent Sparkle with a glowing look of approval. Sparkle just smiled back and whispered to Red, ”Mumm’s the word.”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The gorgeous Rutherford, California location of the Mumm Napa winery and vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.