2006 Veramonte Winery Primus Red Blend

Mission Codename: Latitude 34

Operative: Agent Sparkle

Objective: With Agent Sparkle in Chile on a Top Secret project to save the indigenous Mapuche people, divert her to investigate Veramonte winery. If the wines there are superb, secure an allocation for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Veramonte

Wine Subject: 2006 Veramonte Primus Red Wine

Winemaker: Cristian Aliaga and Alvaro Espinoza

Backgrounder: Wine Spies Operatives love great red blends, and while our focus has been primarily on great blends from California, reports have been flooding in from around the world. Today’s wine is a special blend from Chile, born of an unusual vineyard whose soils are sandy loam, rather than the usual alluvial as with most other Chilean vineyard soils. Todays blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Syrah (31%), Merlot (17%) and Carmenere (16%) is a unique wine with an evolving feel and great big flavors and aromatics. Read Agent Sparkle’s mission report and tasting notes below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful deep ruby red, with deeply concentrated color through its dark heart and all the way to the edges of the wine. When swirled, this wine presents a super-tight and springy surface that settles quickly – leaving behind tight clusters of chubby legs that move very slowly down the glass

Smell – On opening the bottle, I was practically bowled over by the rush of deep, dark, dusky aromas! I have to admit, that I was not expecting such a bold rush of aromas. A striking earthy dark cherry led the charge, followed by bramble, blackberry, smoky dried meats, soft oak and a hint of mint

Feel – Smooth and ultra-light at very first, then smooth but powerful tannins grip in at the top of the palate. A lovely evolution that takes place somewhat quickly in the mouth, and culminating in a big mouth-coating tangle of flavors

Taste – Delicious and slightly exotic (in the best way possible), with layers of beguiling flavors, led off by ripe plum, blackberry, dark cherry, soft tar, toast and licorice

Finish – Light at first, then ratchet up way up, revealing new layers of fruit and dark earthiness – and then tail off slowly, leaving behind a mouth-watering dryness

Conclusion – A super impressive wine from a world class winemaking team in Chile! This wine had me scratching my head on first opening, with its over-the-top aromatics and bold flavors – but, after about 20 minutes under decant, the wine changed significantly, delivering a still-powerful experience, but a way more balanced, elegant and refined one as well. With plenty of big flavors and deep aromatics, this wine is a sensory delight. The feel starts light but then goes medium-bodied as the tannins take hold. I love this surprising wine, and it went beautifully with the vegetarian Carbonada soup that my first glass was served with. The dish is usually made with meat and you’ll find the recipe below. Vegetarians should simply leave out the meat. With food or not, this fantastic wine delivers a great wine drinking experience!

Recipe

Vegetable and Meat Soup (Carbonada)

Serves 8

(½ lb.) stewing meat, in cubes
3 teaspoons oil
2 cups potatoes, peeled and diced
1 cup pumpkin, diced
½ cup carrots diced
½ cup green beans, diced
½ cup fresh peas
½ cup fresh or canned fava beans, peeled
½ cup corn kernels
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon rice
1 egg yolk
Lemon juice

In large saucepan boil 2 quarts of water; add meat and cook over low heat 1 hour. Drain and reserve broth and meat.

In saucepan heat oil and sauté the cooked meat; set aside. In the same pot sauté potatoes, pumpkin, carrots, green beans, peas, fava beans and corn for 2-3 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Add reserved broth, meat and rice. Cook over low heat until the rice is cooked, 30 minutes.

In a soup tureen beat egg yolk; pour the hot soup and mix well. Serve hot with lemon juice.

Mission Report:

From time to time, I am able to cut away from ‘the spy life’ and go on more personal missions. One such mission was my recent foray to Chile, to learn about the plight of the indigenous people of Chile, the Mapuche.

I had been invited by Judge Juan Guzman, the primary advocate for the Mapuche, to accompany him on a tour with an international group of students that were there to learn about the Mapuche as well.

Juan Guzman is credited with being the man who successfully indicted Chilean dictator, Augusto Pinochet. A wonderful and gregarious man, Judge Guzman frequently called upon me to act as his interpreter. This, despite the fact that his English was nearly flawless. Agent Red later surmised that the Judge had a small crush on me. While probably not true, it can’t hurt to make Red a little jealous from time to time.

Toward the end of my tour, I received an alert on my W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) wrist computer. Disguised as a watch this device was supposed to remain on quiet standby for the duration of my trip, Wine Spies HQ assuring me that I would be undisturbed. I should have known better.

Covertly slipping my tiny earpiece onto my ear, I pressed the correct button-sequence on the device. Here is what I heard: ”Agent Sparkle. Agent White here. You are being tasked with a covert meeting with Chilean winery, Veramonte, to take place at 0900 Hours in the Colchagua Valley, 100km to the north of your position. Transpot has been arranged. The rally point has been transmitted to your device. Be ready for extraction at 0700. White Out.

Veramonte, eh? I knew from my documentary film work at Napa Valley’s Quintessa Winery earlier this month, that Veramonte was under the same ownership. The Huneeus family, well respected as International wine-folk of incredible talent and respectful stewardship of the vineyards that they own and care for. While I was a little miffed at the interruption to my trip, this was a remarkable opportunity.

I arrived at Veramonte’s vineyard in the Colchagua Valley. I was struck by the beauty of the place but was snapped out of my reverie by my guide, a member of the winemaking team.

The vineyards here comprise 500 acres, 450 of which are planted to numerous varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Carmenere (all of which are in today’s wine) as well as some Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The soils here are more varied in this single vineyard that is most other vineyards throughout Chile. Present in this soil are volcanic components, clay and even some granite. Chilean soils are typically more alluvial (comprised soil, clay, silt or gravel deposited by flowing water).

Winemaker Cristian Aliaga’s approach to winemaking is refreshing. His focus on crafting wines that deliver a pure reflection of place, where nature is allowed to take its course, results in wines that are distinctive and unique. I have tasted many Chilean wines, and must admit that Veramonte’s Primus is now one of my very favorites.

Cristian and his winemaking team make wines “for people to enjoy!” This approach, as contrasted against some wineries motivation to craft wines for reviewers or for best commercial success, is heartening. The focus at Veramonte is to learn from previous vintages and to improve and evolve the wine on each successive vintage.

Primus is a beautiful blend with what could be a new grape to some wine drinkers. The Carmenere in the wine contributes unique flavors and feel. A cool-climate grape that is notoriously difficult to grow, Carmenere is the oldest of the Bordeaux varietals. While this grape can sometime contribute an overly herbaceous or vegital flavor, it is held in check in the Primus.

Farmed organically, the vineyards here, the grapes, seem well-loved. This really shines through in the wine. Don’t just take my word for it though, please be sure to try this wonderful wine for yourself.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the beautiful Colchagua Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2000 Raymond Burr Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Everybody love Raymond… Burr

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Raymond Burr winery, to retrieve their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon – before it goes on lock-down!

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Raymond Burr Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: John Quinones

Backgrounder:

Today we introduce guest reviewer, Agent Provocateur. We won’t directly blow his cover, but you can read his excellent wine industry commentary daily, on his blog, Fermentation.

The first time we got a hot tip about Raymond Burr Vineyards (yes, that Raymond Burr) Agent Red returned with an incredible Cabernet Franc. It proved to be one of our most popular wines and our Operatives quickly snatched up a big quantity of the wine, leaving nothing for our in-house Agents. Today, Agent Red and Agent Provocateur infiltrate Raymond Burr – to procure their equally incredible 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – before the winery pulls their 2000 Cab out of circulation forever

Wine Spies Tasting Profile, by Agent Provocateur:

Backgrounder – Given the assignment to assess the reliability of earlier reports of fine quality wines from this Sonoma County producer, I had high hopes that a discovery would ensue. We are happy to report that upon intense investigation, this 2000 Raymond Burr Dry Creek Valley Cabernet is indeed the real deal

Look – A deep ruby hue sparkles from the center of the glass. This wine’s color is not opaque, but it not far from it either. It looks exactly as it should. No browning whatsoever

Smell – Sweet Cherry top notes are followed in quick order with distinct cola, cassis and black currant aromas. There is violet/floral component that whiffs up off the wine that must surely be a nod to the 9% Cabernet Franc that inhabits this wine. A halo of campfire smoke mingles about too

Feel -There is grip, tannic grip here but it by no means overwhelms the experience. Rather, the moderate body of this wine and moderate structure serves to open the palate and taste buds up and gives the wine a juicy quality while reminding you that you are consuming a Cabernet. Those who don’t want to pucker, but want to be taken a hold of will appreciate the feel of this Cabernet.

Taste – Ahh. Very satisfying and distinct red and black currant flavors carry a complex array of secondary flavors down the palate. There are flavor notes of sweet summer herbs and licorice that provide something of a “happily brooding” characteristic. Two Yums Up!

Finish – There is nothing short about this wine. The red currant and licorice notes linger long after the swallow. One sometimes worries that Cabernet will leave alcohol hanging around on the palate but there is no sign of that.

Conclusion – Happy Day is that which provides you will a wine such at this that is both mellowed by a few years in the bottle but nonetheless relentlessly vibrant and delightful.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile, by Agent Red:

Look – Deep ruby color with a deeply concentrated heart of garnet, color that stays concentrated right out to the edges – with a bouncy surface and tight-packed legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – Deep aromatics with big cherry, followed by cassis, black currant, and floral violet and soft toasty oak. Very present here is the Cabernet Franc in the wine, which delivers juicy high notes

Feel – Grippy and beautifully tight, this wine has real presence all over the mouth. Medium of body and structure, this wine does not boss your palate around. Rather, its juiciness and its big cab qualities are more refined and balanced than some of the more massive Cabernets we have been tasting of late

Taste – A delicious balance of fruit and soft vegital with layers of smoky cherry, currant, and mild blackberry with a hints of fresh salad herbs and tomato vine

Finish – Like the Raymond Burr Cab Franc I had the pleasure to bring you last month, once swallowed, the flavors in this wine deepen in your mouth and they continue to do so for what seems like an endless interval! Eventually, the flavors do tail off, albeit very slowly. Flavors of licorice and smoked raisin make an appearance and then your mouth waters, begging you to take another sip

Conclusion – What a great pleasure it is to taste a superior wine that has aged so beautifully as this one has. This wine is rich, sophisticated and very smooth – but not at all dull. Rather, this wine has a vitality and a vividness that is surprising for an 8 year-old wine. Once again, our spy hats come off for John Quinones, the masterful winemaker that crafted this delicious wine. Drink now or hold onto to a few bottles for a couple of years. IF you can resist drinking up your reserves!

Mission Report:

Now that we are great friends with the folks at Raymond Burr Vineyards, additional surveillance or infiltration is not necessary. Now that they have been recruited into The Wine Spies Network, we can just return to them to ask for wine.

No new mission report today, so please read below for a recap of our initial mission to Raymond Burr Vineyards.

Please note that we enjoyed today’s featured Cabernet Sauvignon even more than the Cabernet Franc that we featured previously.

Prior Mission Recap:

Ask anyone to describe Raymond Burr in a single word and, resoundingly, you will likely hear, Classy.

The veteran actor, for whom today’s winery was honorarily named, was also a cultivator of orchids, a war hero, a philanthropist and more. Most of all, he was cherished and loved by his close friends, who say that his warmth, humor and compassion made him a remarkable man.

When I was given the mission – finally – to seek out a new Cabernet Franc, I riffled through my mental Rolodex and recalled hearing great things about a Cab Franc from Raymond Burr Winery. In fact, it was in the most unusual way that I had come to hear of the wine in the first place.

On returning from a mission to Latin America, our flight got in to Miami too late to make our connecting flight back to California. the airline put us up in a swanky hotel and the next morning we found ourselves in a shuttle back to the Airport. I struck up a conversation with a young couple who were also on our inbound flight and, as always, I steered the conversation toward wine. We compared tastes in varietals and found that Cab Franc wines were among our very favorites. We traded recommendations and they assured me that Raymond Burr had a wine that I would be sure to love.

Now that I was finally assigned a Cab Franc mission I knew just where to go, so I called proprietor and long time companion to Mr. Burr, Robert Benevides. I used the direct approach and told him that I was very interested in sampling his wine and, if they passed the test, feature his Cabernet Franc here for our Operatives to enjoy.

I enjoyed this exceptional wine more with each sip. With enough time to stretch out in the air, the wine really opens up and loses the rough edges present on opening. For best results, decant the wine for a few hours – and enjoy at cellar temperature.

Aromas, flavors, acid and mouth-feel are all in harmony here and the finish is really very unique. If you love great Cabernet Franc, look no further Operative, its right here.

Finally, I remember hearing a story about Mr. Burr that sums up his life and his wines: While working with Errol Flynn, Flynn told Mr. Burr that if he died with ten dollars in his pocket he hadn’t done a good job. This inspired Mr. Burr to always share his wealth with all. His legacy lives on in today’s wine from Mr. Burr’s namesake winery.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Raymond Burr Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

TOP SECRET SPECIAL: Free Shipping on orders of six or more bottles. Use the promotion code SONOMASPY during checkout.

SUPERIOR WINE ALERT: Today’s wine is a beauty! If you love mature, balanced and refined Cabernet Sauvignon, we invite you to fall in love with this wine

2000 Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards Midnight Run Zinfandel

Mission Codename: After Midnight

Operative: Agent Reed

Objective: Secure a exceptional budget-minded Zinfandel for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Pedroncelli Winery

Wine Subject: 2000 Zinfandel

Winemaker: John Pedroncelli

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is one of the favorite grape varietals, and for good reason, so many wonderful California wines are made from this varietal. Related to the Italian Primitivo grape and tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski, Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A heart of deep garnet to slightly brickish at the very edges. After swirling, this wine continues to spin and spin at its center. When it settles, it leaves behind widely spaced legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – Aromas of dark fruit including black currants, smoky blackberry and soft plum, followed by a lush and soft buttery leather aromatic with soft spice

Feel – Soft on entry, then more round on the mid-palate. The wine then slowly and subtly dry the cheeks and lips, giving it a slightly puckering quality

Taste – Sweet and bright, with delicious layered flavors natural jammy mixed berry, ripe plum and soft spice, with a hint of oak and pepper that that emerge as the wine opens up

Finish – This wine finishes softly smoky, with supple fruit and dark plum, fading slowly with hints of pepper and soft mixed spice

Conclusion – This 2000 was built to age, and it has done so beautifully. For its relatively low price, this ready-to-drink wine is an exceptional value. As should be evident by now, we are big fans of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, and this zin delivers the goods. This wine is a rich and delicious wine the enough acidity to make it very food friendly.

Mission Report:

I got the call shortly before 10pm.

“Go for Agent Red,” I answered.

“Red, its White. Priority Alpha 7 mission directive.”

“Ready to receive.”

With that, my W.I.N.E. handheld device came to life, its dual displays indicating that a mission was being uploaded. I sprang to life as well, quickly dressing in my night tac suit.

The soft double brrt from the device told me that my order had been received. I spoke a command, and the soft female voice of the device declared the following:

”Target: Pedroncelli Winery. Coordinates and navigational data uploaded to your vehicle. Satellite thermal imaging has detected numerous bodies in the vineyards. Patterns of movement are contrary to conformity to expected norms, suggesting that a late-night harvest may be underway. Proceed to winery and assess the situation. Report findings to Agent White.”

As the device finished speaking, I was exiting my safe house… But, instead of heading to the winery, I diverted for my previously scheduled rendezvous with Agent Sparkle – at our favorite Sonoma County wine bar, [REDACTED].

Sparkle was waiting for me at the bar, and I explained to her that I needed to file a quick report before settling in for an evening of tasting and light dining.

I tucked myself into a dark corner, pulled out my handheld and whispered my ‘report’:

”Agent Red. Field recon report. Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards. I have identified the winemaker, vineyard manager and numerous winery personnel at work in the Zinfandel blocks of the estate vineyards. Grapes are being inspected and measured and spirited conversation is ongoing, particularly between vineyard manager and winemaker. Wait. It looks as though a picking decision has been made… Tractors… Bins… they are harvesting. It is obvious that these grapes are being picked to Pedroncelli’s fabled Midnight Run Zinfandel. Mystery solved, mission complete, Agent Red out!

I snapped my handheld shut, took a deep bow and, with a flourish, present my arm to my waiting lady-Agent. She smiled wryly and said, “Shouldn’t I get credit for that mission, Red? I told you about that wine just last week!”

“Well, m’lady, at least you know that I listen to everything you tell me.”

”Everything, eh?” And with that she gave me her ‘you jerk’ smile as we sidled up to the bar and ordered our wines.

If you love great QPR Zinfandel that doesn’t drink like a crummy budget wine, then I wholeheartedly recommend today’s wonderful Midnight Run Zinfandel from Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards.

P.S. Don’t tell Agent White that I cheated on today’s mission!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Pedroncelli Winery and vineyards can be seen in satellite photo.

2007 St. Clement Vineyards Abbott’s Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay

Mission Codename: Pioneering Spirit

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, St. Clement, this time to recover a exclusive allocation cache of their fabled Single Vineyard Abbot’s Carneros Napa Chardonnay

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: St. Clement Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Abbott’s Vineyard Chardonnay – Carneros Napa Valley

Winemaker: Danielle Cyrot

Backgrounder: Carneros Chardonnay is now revered for its quality, elegance and smoothness. The Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley, has been a great source of wine that we have featured here. Always, those wine have been of supreme quality. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Chardonnay and Chardonnay literally thrives there. St. Clement is a Wine Spies favorite and we are proud to bring you today’s special Single Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this great Chardonnay

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Bright golden straw with perfect clarity and glinting highlights. When swirled, this wine has a softly bouncy look. When it settles down, tight clusters of chubby legs take forever to appear before they slowly move down the glass

Smell – A stupendous fresh fruit rush of exotic green melon, cantaloupe, apple, and subtle pear mingle lovingly with soft citrus, yeast, minerals and a hint of vanilla custard

Feel – A true delight in the mouth, this wine starts lushly round and sort at first, then, as it settles in it grips in gently at the mid-palate. As the wine warms a little (try this), the feel becomes even softer and more lush

Taste – Bright acidity, this wine presents balanced soft and bold flavors, starting with mixed melon, soft clove and subtle tropical fruit. Under-layers of tart apple, soft citrus, soft oak and flint are delicious

Finish – Very long and very flavorful, with an initial tartness that goes sweet and softly mineral-driven as flavors taper slowly

Conclusion – This fantastic Chardonnay is the first white wine we have featured from our good friends at St. Clement Vineyards. Their elegant Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is a Wine Spies favorite, and we now feel a little silly to have placed all of our attention on those wines and not their amazing white wines! At least we can say that today’s wine more than makes it up to you, for this wine is a superb example of just how wonderful a real Chardonnay can be. As a loyal Operative, you know that we have shown relatively few Chardonnays here. This notorious pickiness is to your advantage, as you can be assured that any Chard we feature here is real winning example of this sometimes difficult varietal. This wine shines as a complex, flavorful and non-boring Chardonnay that you will find not only delicious, but also very interesting. Enjoy this wine on a hot summer day as a casual sipper, or as the center of conversation about great white wines!

Mission Report:

The following is an extract from our first-encounter mission report, in which Agent White first becomes acquainted with our now-good friends at St. Clement:

It was perhaps the strangest of locations to start a wine mission. I entered the church and as the instructions indicated, I was to go to the second pew and show penance. As I knelt, in the pew, I noticed a book with a bookmark in it. Looking more closely, it was a history of the Papacy and the page that was bookmarked was about Pope Clement I (Clemens Romanus), who is also known as St. Clement. No being sure if this was the clue, I stayed for another hour and beyond the woman practicing on the organ, nobody came or went from the church.

Back at HQ, I entered in our research computer the search term ‘Clement’ and found that indeed, the bookmark was a clue. All signs pointed in the direction of St. Clement Vineyards in Napa Valley. We had an asset who could get us some additional intel so I PIN messaged Agent Malbec and within a few hours a courier had delivered a bottle of the St. Clement to our front company.

The bottle was immediately taken to the lab for analysis. The results were clear; It was an almost perfect wine, with fruit from one of the best vineyards in Napa. St. Clement had been on our radar for a couple months. Their winemaker Danielle Cyrot, with a long lineage of European winemakers was making quite a name for herself.

But as we always say, the proof is in the juice… Lab results, research, walks through the vineyards are all nice, but its in the glass that matters… Well, there’s no knelling for St. Clement wines. After tasting it, we were jumping for joy.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of St. Clement Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Truett-Hurst Vineyards & Winery Rattler Rock Old Vine Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The case of the Rattler

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Truett-Hurst and return with another of their remarkable Zins

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Truett-Hurst

Wine Subject: 2006 Rattler Rock Zinfandel

Winemaker: Ginny Lambrix

Backgrounder: When The Wine Spies first learned of Truett-Hurst Winery, we were instantly intrigued by their approach to winemaking. From their stellar winemaking team, to their sustainable practices, Truett-Hurst is a real stand-out winery that makes fantastic wines. For today’s wine, Agent Red returns to Truett-Hurst to procure another of their incredible Zinfandels. Read Red’s mission notes and tasting notes below, for the full story on today’s wine – and his initial encounter with this great winery

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A gorgeous wine with a deep heart of dark garnet, with concentrated color out to its finer edge of glittering dark pink. The wine settles quickly when swirled and shows a core that keeps spinning for some time, and then chunky legs crawl slowly down the glass

Smell – A raw intensity of lush jammy blackberry and raspberry on first sniff, followed by a woodsy bramble aroma with fine pepper, plum, burnt sugar and spice

Feel – Round and lush on entry, then solid and stoic on the mid as medium tannins take hold and the mouth thoroughly is coated

Taste – Deep and dark lead the way with blackberry, plum and smoky blueberry and then, underneath, a bright and fruity quality emerges, with slightly tart flavors of bing cherry, cranberry and boysenberry

Finish – Starts off dusky and dark, sustains that quality for a long while – and then bright fruit arrives with a slight tartness and then then flavors tail off slowly with just a slight dryness

Conclusion – An incredible Zinfandel with a perfect feel and rich flavors that are guaranteed to please even the most exacting critic of California Zinfandel. With near-perfect balance and great fruit that shines through, this is a beautiful wine that is an absolute delight to drink. While I find most Zins to be unfriendly or unaccommodating to foods, this Zin has the acidity to make it a perfect dinner companion. I really enjoyed drinking this wine on its own, as well. Many Zins tend to wear me out after even a half a glass. This Zin is one to keep sipping and sipping…

Mission Report:

What follows is a recap of our original mission to Truett-Hurst winery:

In the frenzied wine-a-day world of a secret wine agent, I can sometimes be moving so quickly from mission to mission that I lose sight of the natural wonder that is winemaking.

I recently had the great fortune to receive a hot tip from one of my operatives. His intel was fed into our Wine Internet Nexus Engine (W.I.N.E.) – and the results that came back classified Truett-Hurst as a Priority Target.

I was just coming off of a series of mission and I was tired. I was expecting a few days of R&R, but a Priority alert is never something that I can resist. According to the data on Truett, their Zinfandels were their flagship wines. Their other wines merited investigation as well, but my focus was to be their Zins.

My Operative had provided me with a contact at the winery. My mole there was to be Jim Morris, the General Manager of the winery. I called him and set an appointment for the next day.

On the morning of my mission, I wound my way through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley. Along the way, I passed several of our previously-featured wineries. Our Operatives love Dry Creek Valley wines and it was a joy to drive through the valley on this cold and misty morning.

On arrival at Truett-Hurst, I was struck by the serenity of the place. Despite the construction activity that was taking place (during their expansion), there was a definite vibe to the property.

The tasting room was charming and the round tasting bar was inviting and impressive. Jim greeted me as I approached and chatted for a few minutes about the winery and about its approach to farming, grape growing and winemaking. See the left column for more information about this unique style of farming.

I found the wines to be impressive, across the full range. I certainly did hone in on their Zinfandels and then and there secured an allotment of today’s Red Rooster Zinfandel, the wine that I found to be the most balanced and best-drinking of the bunch.

Allocation secured for our Operatives, Jim invited me for a tour of the facility and the property. Jim explained that the winery was in the midst of a remarkable transformation.

Jim began by describing changes to the tasting room, including its transformation from tasting room to tasting lounge, a place for folks to meet and enjoy wines in a comfortable and inviting setting.

We then proceeded outside, where Jim described the new plantings would be going in. Included among these were, of course, new vines, but also numerous functional and productive gardens. The entire back area of the property will contain vegetable gardens, and gardens designed specifically to play host to beneficial insects. The entire front vineyards will host natures lawnmowers, free roaming sheep and chickens. The chickens will control the crab grasses that the valley is known for by scratching the ground, and the sheep will take care of the rest. Their hooves will provide the ground with needed aeration.

We then walked down to the pristine creek, where Jim described that the bank would be dotted with chaise lounges, where people could enjoy a glass of wine while watching native salmon and trout leaping out of the water.

The entire experience is one that I recommend that you have for yourself. Visit them the next time you are in the Dry Creek Valley. Meanwhile, for a taste of a very special wine from a very special winery, please enjoy today’s wonderful Red Rooster Zinfandel!

Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Truett-Hurst Winery, where today’s Zinfandel was crafted, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Maloy O’Neill Vineyards Enzo Super-Tuscan

Mission Codename: The Hand of Shannon

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Maloy O’Neill Vineyards in Paso Robles, uncover their best red blend, secure an amply supply for our blend-thirsty Operatives around the U.S.A.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maloy O’Neill Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2004 Enzo

Winemakers: Shannon O’Neill

Backgrounder: Paso Robles has long been established as a wine producing region that give other California regions a run for their money. With a climate and soils that make for perfect growing conditions for grapes, it is no wonder. Winemakers in Paso are a somewhat unique breed, often declaring themselves to be the renegades of Cali wine. A meeting with Shannon O’Neill, winemaker and owner of Maloy O’Neill affirms this sentiment. A warm, excited and deeply passionate man, Shannon makes wines that reflect his personality. Join Agent Red as he revisits Shannon, tastes his incredible 2004 Enzo, and returns with a cache of the wine for our eager Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A beautiful deep dark garnet, with thickly concentrated color through its dark heart of pure garnet – and all the way to the edges of the wine. When swirled, this wine shows a springy surface that settles quickly – leaving behind tight tightly-packed ropey legs that take a long time to emerge before they move slowly down the glass

Smell – A rush of deep, dark and dusky aromas, lead by a strikingly fresh bing cherry. This gorgeous aromatic is followed by dark blackberry, bright fresh raspberry, red plum, soft oak, cedar, a hint pine sap and a hint of dried mint

Feel – Soft and tender on the initial attack, then the wine grows big and becomes mouth-filling with smooth and supple tannins that, after a a few moments, grip in at the top of the palate, the tongue and lips, eventually drying the cheeks – causing you to smack your lips!

Taste – Delicious, juicy, dark, dusky and really exotic, with layers of concentrated dark and bright flavors. These are led, solidly, by dark plum, ripest blackberry, bright red cherry, raspberry – and followed by smoky hints of subtle flint, cedar and soft spices

Finish – Dark and concentrated at first, then bright fruits emerge in tandem with the dark fruits. They exist, side-by-side, for a long interval before they tail off very gradually, leaving behind dusky flavors of minerals, dark fruit and herbs

Conclusion – What a great pleasure to return to our friends at Maloy O’Neill – and to return with this particular wine! A favorite of winery personnel, I was really impressed with the delicious uniqueness of this wine. Shannon O’Neill is a modern mad scientist and old-school naturalist, crafting wines the old-fashioned way, while imbuing them with his spectacular knowledge of the region and the varietals that he specializes in. This is a deeply concentrated wine, but it is balanced and easy to drink. It also has the fine acidity to pair with almost any foods. Shannon’s winemaking techniques, from end to end, are literally hands-on. There is no automated production or miles of piping that the wine has to move through in the process. He even corks each bottle by hand. His love for his wines shine through – especially in this superb red blend, his 2004 Enzo.

Mission Report:

Below follows an excerpt from Agent Red’s initial recon of Maloy O’Neill Vineyards.

Just a few days ago, I was fortunate to spend time with Shannon O’Neill, one of the founding father’s of the Paso wine scene.

Shannon purchased his first vineyard land back in 1980 and was one of the first dozen vintners planting in the appellation. Today, there are more than 120 Paso wineries and Shannon’s Maloy O’Neill is considered an original – and one of the finest.

The day I met Shannon, the weather was mercifully moderate. The last time I visited the region in the summertime, the weather soared to 106 degrees. That was a year ago, and I was loath to experience another sweltering day. Thank Bacchus for a cooler day.

Shannon told me that the weather this summer had been somewhat unusual, with temperatures bouncing all around. “It’s been an unusual summer to be sure,” Shannon told me. “Day to day, temps have been fluctuating far more than usual.”

When I asked Shannon to tell me how the grapes were doing with these temperature swings, he told me:

“The swings make me a little nervous, particularly when temps soar to 116 as we saw recently. When temps get that high, vines can shut down, putting the grapes in danger. Fortunately, our grapes are all doing great.”

“This is the time of year when we visit the vineyards several times a day to see when they start to get their color. When the first hints of purple appear on the grapes, we know that harvest is right around the corner. Right now, I am ordering all of my harvest supplies and getting my team ready to pick, sort and rush the grapes to the winery.”

As we walked through the vineyards, Shannon pointed out the wide assortment of his grapes. Here, he grows and tends to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Muscat Canelli, and Malvasia Bianca, these latter two being more obscure but very interesting grape varietals. We discussed the grapes, picking and tasting as we walked and talked.

I asked Shannon to characterize the differences between wines made in Paso Robles and those from Napa and Sonoma.

“Well, that’s a big question, but I’ll boil it down in simple terms: Because of the hotter temperatures, Paso wines tend to be more deeply extracted and big. The higher temps lead to higher sugars which, in turn, lead to higher alcohol. When making my wines, I strive to deliver big and bold flavors, but also wines that hold up when paired with food. Some of my wines are meant to solo imbibing to be sure, but the Lexicon that you are enjoying is a great food wine. Bright acidity and deep fruit don’t overpower and are perfect with lighter foods or even hearty entrees.”

My afternoon with the winemaker over, I headed back to Central Command, the trunk of my hybrid Spy SUV stuffed with Maloy O’Neill’s great wines. And those were just the wines for my cellar! You’ll have to get your own today, dear Operative, before we run out!

A hearty thank you to Shannon for the great tour!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maloy O’Neil vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Lynmar Estate Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Coastal Fog

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Uncover the truth behind the greatness of Lynmar Estate’s 2006 Pinot Noir. Infiltrate the winery and capture an ample allocation of cases for our Pinot-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Lynmar Estate

Wine Subject: 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

Winemaker: Hugh Chappelle

Winery Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s. In today’s wine, Lynmar Estate presents their own delicious take on Russian River Valley Pinot Noir by delivering a wine of bold and delicious character. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting noted below for the full intel on this very exciting wine

Read Agent Red’s mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – This beautiful-looking wine has the appearance of bright red cherry juice with perfectly concentrated color out to the edges, and perfect clarity through its slightly darker heart. When swirled, the surface of the wine appears ultra-tight and it settles fast, leaving tightly-packed clusters of chubby legs that start high upon the inside of the glass

Smell – On opening, this wine exudes a big rush of bright cherry, strawberry, raspberry and red currant. These are followed by complex earthen notes with brown spice, leather, dark plum and soft dried meat

Feel – Lush and round on entry. Then, after a moment, this wine becomes more full and complex as medium tannins take hold at the edges of the tongue, drying the palate and inside the cheeks and lips

Taste – Bold and balanced, with cleanly fresh-fruit flavors of tart cherry and young strawberry. These flavors are easily entwined with more complex flavors of smoky red plum, dried flowers and earthy minerals and soft cedar

Finish – Ultra long and ultra lush, this wine begins with a tart dryness, then goes dark and dusky with earthen flavors and minerals of slate and spice ofclove and soft cinnamon

Conclusion – Big and delicious, with with flavors that boldly extol the virtues of the Russian River Valley, the Lynmar vineyards and the prowess of winemaker, Hugh Chappelle. The region, the vineyards and the man all come together to contribute to this complex and interesting Pinot Noir, in a way that makes of take keen notice. With a complexity that makes the wine a terrific conversation piece, and a balance that make it not just about its complexity, this wine is as versatile as it is delicious. I enjoyed my sample bottle with a fresh spinach salad with a very garlicky dijon-balsamic and olive oil dressing. I was initially worried that the robust dressing would overpower the wine, but it held up beautifully. In fact, the wine acted as an enhancement to the dressing, cutting through some of the more intense flavors of the dressing and returning my palate to balanced. Decant for best results. Enjoy now or cellar through 2012.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER_

SUBJECT: Hugh Chappelle

DATE OF BIRTH: June, 1962

PLACE OF BIRTH: Mountain View, CA

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Chalk Hill, Madrona Vineyards, Flowers Vineyard & Winery, Lynmar Estate

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Balance and Expression of Site

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Pinot Noir

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Having the opportunity to re-plant Lynmar’s Quail Hill Vineyard with an ideal mix of clones as well as having a hand in the design and outfitting of our new gravity flow winery.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: I am proud to continue the Lynmar tradition of impeccably balanced wines that enhance food, age gracefully, and exhibit uncommon grace and elegance.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Hugh. We are thrilled to be showing your Pinot Noir. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

HUGH: It is my pleasure.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

HUGH: Yes, first growing up in a household where wine was part of daily life. My mother is from the Mosel in Germany and there was always a bottle of Riesling in the refrigerator. Second, was answering a “Help Wanted” ad in Student Employment while at UC Santa Cruz and ending up at a small micro-winery up in the Santa Cruz Mountains. As chemistry major at the time I thought it very cool to apply my science background in such a creative way. That first exposure catalyzed my later career change from Biotech to winemaking.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

HUGH: Even though I went through graduate studies at UC Davis and have nothing but the highest respect for their program, the bottom line is that I learned the most about winemaking while on the job.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

HUGH: If it could be summed up in word it would be “Balance”. I also place a huge importance on doing as much work in the vineyard as possible so that the winemaking is as natural and straightforward as possible. Balanced wines can be either big and bold, or light and delicate, but they both share the quality of everything being in just the right proportions.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

HUGH: Outside of studying, and drinking, the great classic wines of the world, I would say my short time at Chalk Hill Winery when Dave Ramey was winemaker was a very formative experience. While I went there to gain experience with native/wild yeast fermentations, Dave’s methodical approach to every detail of winemaking, willingness to take risks, and emphasis on wine texture continue to impact my winemaking today.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

HUGH: Full time since 1989, part-time from 1982-1986.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: Obviously, being employed by another winery requires that, at times, I put personal preferences aside and respect house styles, market realities, and other practical aspects of making wine for a living…..and a profit. However, I have been lucky to be at wineries where the owners/proprietors give a fairly free hand to their winemaker. I have always been honored by that trust and responsibility and never take it for granted.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

HUGH: What makes the Russian River so special is our juxtaposition to three Key geographic features: the Pacific Ocean, the Petaluma Wind Gap, and the Russian River itself. In addition, Lynmar’s estate vineyards are further influenced by our proximity to the Laguna de Santa Rosa, one of the largest fresh water wetlands in Northern California. These climatic factors, along with low-moderate vigor well-drained soils give us one of the most perfect environments to grow great Pinot Noir anywhere in the world.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

HUGH: Get practical experience from wineries making the kinds of wines you like, or work at several different kinds of wineries of different sizes making different varieties to see what really resonates with you. While formal schooling is great, and arguably opens more doors, especially at larger wineries, the quality of your work experience is the most important thing for wineries like Lynmar or Flowers.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

HUGH: HARVEST!!

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

HUGH: While you can eat off the floor of our cellar because we keep everything so clean, my office is a bit….”cluttered”. This is a bit of company joke, but what can I say?

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

HUGH: For everyday reds I tend to drink Italian. Barbera’s, Dolcetto’s, and Chianti Classico’s simply cannot be beat for the quality to price ratio…..and they go superbly with a wide range of foods…..especially the Italian foods my girlfriend tends to like to cook. For white I gravitate to Chablis, crisp steely Macon’s, Sancerre, and….of course Riesling.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

HUGH: Trust your own taste! I continue to be amazed that people simply don’t drink what they like and often need confirmation of what they should be drinking. I think it remains a legitimate challenge for our industry to continue demystifying wine without taking away what makes it so special.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

HUGH: A great Musigny or Chambolle Musigny from a top domaine in a great vintage….of course out of magnum!

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

HUGH: Question: So it sounds like your girlfriend’s a cook? Answer: We have to leave something as a mystery.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

HUGH: Thanks a lot. Take care!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the gorgeous Lynmar Estate Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Alexander Valley Vineyards Two Barrel – Syrah Merlot Blend

Mission Codename: Tasters’ Preference

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of the wine club favorite Two Barrel blend from Alexander Valley Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Alexander Valley Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Two Barrel – Syrah Merlot

Winemaker: Kevin Hall

Backgrounder:

Alexander Valley in northeast Sonoma County is located on the western side of the Mayacamas range and extends westward to the edge of the Russian River Valley. This appellation was formerly considered a part of Dry Creek Valley but became its own appellation in November 1984. The region is best known for exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but recently people are starting to discover its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Chardonnay as well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark garnet with clear ruby reflections through its dark but clear core. Along the edges, the color fades ever so slightly to a deep ruby red. When swirled, clusters of medium thick legs of varying speeds descend down the glass and then a much slower set of fat and deeply colored legs hang at the top of the glass.

Smell – Ripe and well developed aromas of earthy and spicy fruit including blackberry and blueberry with a floral touch. Subtle notes of licorice, dark chocolate and oak round out the expansive nose of this wine.

Feel – The attack on this dry and full-bodied wine is initially cool and smooth then at mid-palate, a touch of spice and balanced acidity kicks in over firm, fine tannins and coats the mouth becoming almost chewy in texture and lingering long into the finish.

Taste – Rich and intense flavors of juicy and ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum and a touch of blueberry over complex earthy-mineral notes, spice and dried herbs. Mild black licorice, dark chocolate and mild oak round out the very pleasant and lush flavor profile of this wine.

Finish – This wine finishes long with ripe plum and other fruit framed by its chewy texture and balanced acidity and tannins that define its classic Syrah and Merlot flavors.

Conclusion – The 2005 Alexander Valley Vineyards Two Barrel is a delicious and value oriented wine that blends the best character of both Syrah and Merlot, bringing out the bold spicy and juicy fruit and chewy texture of Syrah with the soft supple fruit, chocolate and other complex flavors from Merlot.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Kevin Hall

DATE OF BIRTH: April 3, 1967

PLACE OF BIRTH: Aurora, Colorado

WINE EDUCATION: MS in Food Science (Specializing in Enology) from UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: RH Phillips, Sebastiani, Alexander Valley Vineyards

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To use a minimalist approach to allow both the varietal character of the fruit as well as the region to show through

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Too numerous to count, though if I had to pick one, it would be Cabernet Sauvignon

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: The internship I had a year and a half out of Davis in New Zealand. I was working with some of the varietals I ended up working with here at Alexander Valley Vineyards. That time in New Zealand convinced me I wanted to work with Bordeaux varietals

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”The #1 job of a winemaker is to try not to mess up the grapes you get from the vineyard”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Covert greetings, Kevin. We are thrilled to be showing your Two Barrel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KEVIN: Thanks. We’re excited about Wine Spies featuring one of our wines.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KEVIN: When I met my wife to be and her family. They were involved in grape growing in Germany.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

KEVIN: On the job, including the internships I had in Germany and New Zealand.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

KEVIN: Grow the grapes correctly and do not be too heavy-handed in the cellar. And never take any short cuts.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KEVIN: Rod McDonald who was my boss at Vidal Estate in New Zealand. I liked the approach he took with making wines from Bordeaux varietals in New Zealand. He also believed that you really needed to pay close attention to what you were doing in the vineyard.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

KEVIN: 15 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KEVIN: I make wines to be enjoyed ever day of the week with dinner and not just to bring out on special occasions

RED: Tell me, what makes the Alexander Valley so special?

KEVIN: The region has so many different soil types and a climate that is so conducive to growing high quality premium grapes. As a result, you can grow a lot of different varieties well, not just Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but also Syrah and Zinfandel and Chardonnay.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

KEVIN: Taste as often as you can. Get as much experience working in the cellar as you can and don’t try to move up too fast because it will always be important to draw on your past experiences.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KEVIN: Preparing for harvest. We’re making sure the equipment is ready, hiring people and I’m walking the vineyards to see how the grapes are faring.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

KEVIN: As you mentioned, the Two Barrel was inspired by a wine created by our Wine Club members who annually create a blend out of different varietals. The first year we produced this wine, it was literally from Two Barrels, a barrel of Cabernet and a barrel of Syrah. But the following year, we decided that Merlot actually worked better with the Syrah. Because Alexander Valley Merlot has so much structure and backbone, it really balances the up-front fruity qualities of the Syrah. And it works really well in the proportions of the blend, 50-50. Each of the varietals fills in for what is missing in the other varietal. The Syrah is aged in French oak and the Merlot in American barrels before we blend the two.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KEVIN: Anything off the grill. Our winery chef, Jeff Young, does spicy ribs that go great with the Two Barrel. But this wine would even work well with ribs with a sweeter barbecue sauce.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

KEVIN: I’m a huge 80s New Wave fan. That’s the thing I love about satellite radio in the car. I can push a button and find my music.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

KEVIN: For me, that’s a seasonal question. Right now, I’m drinking a lot of our dry Rosé of Sangiovese. It’s my go-to wine right into fall.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

KEVIN: Wine doesn’t have to be complicated. People don’t need to put it up on a pedestal. It’s a wonderful beverage that you should enjoy every day with a meal.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

KEVIN: Any Mosel Riesling from 1990. The wines are still holding up very well. They show a lot of purity of fruit and the minerality is incredible.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

KEVIN: Thanks again. We’re sure all of your operatives will enjoy the 2005 Two Barrel.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Alexander Valley Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Fumé Blanc

Mission Codename: Running on Fumé

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Grgich Hills Estate. This time secure an allocation of their fantastic Fumé Blanc

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grgich Hills Estate

Wine Subject: 2007 Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley

Winemaker: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

Backgrounder: In 1976, Mike Grgich rocked the wine world by creating a California that beat out French Chardonnays in the now famous Judgment of Paris. The French were outraged, and Mike Grgich earned the respect of wine drinkers and critics, worldwide. Today, Mike continues to oversee production of what have been heralded as “the finest wines in the world”. We are very proud to be able to bring you today’s fantastic Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Fumé Blanc.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful and glistening pale golden-yellow with glistening edges. When swirled, this wine shows a taught and springy surface that settles quickly, leaving behind closely-spaced, skinny legs that emerge quickly and then glide slowly down the inside of the glass

Smell – This wine presents a beautiful aromatic rush of bold tropical notes, with earthy pineapple, start fruit, citrus, peach, grapefruit, and zesty apple. These sit atop soft hints of spice and unique dry minerals.

Feel – Plush, round and velvet smooth up at the tip of the mouth, then slightly dry as the wine evolves to show off a medium-bodied structure that fills the palate as soft, structured tannins take hold

Taste – Rich and full-flavored, with the perfect balance of bright California fruit, merging with a richer and more austere Burgundian style, with flavors of tart apple, pineapple, grapefruit, lemon hints of soft spice and oak

Finish – This wine finishes ultra-long and very clean with lingering flavors that are supported by great acidity and fine minerality

Conclusion – Wow! This Grgich Fumé Blanc is an extraordinary wine. Coming from me, this is high praise as I am extraordinarily hard to please when it comes to white wines. Mike Grgich and nephew Ivo absolutely nail it with this wine, illustrating exactly why Mike Grgich is revered as a winemaking legend. In fact, you could argue that it was Grgich’s Chardonnay that, in 1976, catapulted the California wine scene to international recognition.

Today’s wine is delicious and a real joy to drink. The flavors and aromatics are absolutely superb and in perfect balance. The mineral component present a uniquely interesting aroma, almost exactly like the sand from a freshly opened bag of clean sandbox sand. While that may sound obscure to some, this is the clean mineral smell that I get. The initial dryness of the wine makes the mouth water, adding to the overall textural experience of the wine.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

DATE OF BIRTH: April 1st, 1923

PLACE OF BIRTH: Desne, in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatian region

WINE EDUCATION: Attended University of Zagreb. Field of study, viticulture and enology

CALIFORNIA WINERIES EXPERIENCE: Christian Brothers Cellars, Souverain Winery, Robert Mondavi and Beaulieu Vineyard (with André Tchelistcheff)

FOUNDED NAMESAKE WINERY: Grgich Hills Cellar, founded 1977, renamed to Grgich Hills Estate in 2006

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To, ”… year after year, is to improve the quality of [the] vineyards and [the] wines” and to, ”… remain committed to making distinctive wines with quality, consistency and longevity”.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Chardonnay

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: In 1976, Mike Grgich’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won the infamous Judgement of Paris tasting, to become the best Chardonnay in the world. The fact that a California wine won the tasting shocked the wine world – and spurned Mr. Grgich on to great success with his own winery

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: On March 7, 2008, in recognition of his impact and contribution to the wine industry, Mr. Grgich was inducted into the Vintner Hall of Fame. The honor coincided with his 50th vintage of winemaking in the Napa Valley

GRGICH QUOTE: ”For years, everybody in the world believed that only French soils could produce great wines. We shattered that myth. That was probably the most significant result of the Paris tasting. Our victory pumped new energy into the California wine industry, particularly in the Napa Valley.”

BLACK BERET: Mr. Grgich wears an ever present black beret. It is rumored that the beret is imbued with magical energies that power his winemaking talents. Further investigation is required…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Grgich Hills Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Rodney Strong Vineyards Alexander Valley Estate Syrah

Mission Codename: The Strongman II

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Rodney Strong Vineyards and retrieve their newly released Alexander Valley Estate Syrah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Rodney Strong Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Alexander Valley Estate Syrah

Winemaker: Rick Sayre

Backgrounder: Our Operatives loved the 2004 vintage of Rodney Strong’s Alexander Valley Estate Syrah, making the wine one of the most popular we have ever featured. Today, Agent Red returns to Rodney Strong to procure the newest release of the wine, a more potent and more delicious vintage to be sure.

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a bold delight with original flavors, deep aromatics and a ultra-fine mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and interesting mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and inky Burgundy in color with a heart of darkest garnet and concentrated color out to the edges of the glass. On swirling, this wine shows a tight and fast-settling surface. When the wine settles, it leaves behind tight clusters of some of the finest legs I have ever seen on a wine

Smell – Dark and lush, with layers of smoky black cherry, blackberry, plum, earth, oak and spice. These sit atop softer hints of cedar, dried meats and soft licorice

Feel – Light and wet up front, then soft across the mid-palate. After a few moments, fine medium-grained tannins show up, drying the cheeks and lips as the mouth is coated with the rich flavors of the wine

Taste – Delicious and rich, but not heavy-handed, this wine leads with black fruit, smoky mixed berry, lush dark mixed berry and smoky oak. These are followed by hints of spice and subtly-salty licorice

Finish – Begins with big flavors which seem to linger for a long interval before they begin to fade gradually. The wine begins dark and smoky-fruity, then tails off with more earth and a very subtle hint of salty European licorice

Conclusion – We loved the 2004 vintage of this wine and we LOVE this stellar iteration! It is such a pleasure to be able to taste successive vintages of a particular wine. Doing so gives one insight into the evolution of a winemaker, a vineyard, and even how the weather can affect a wine. The 2005 vintage was a late-starter in the vineyard, with bud break occurring later than usual. The year was also far cooler and more wet than in recent memory, giving the season a more Rhone-like quality. The result is a wine that has more character, a better overall feel, and more exciting flavors and aromas. If you tasted the 2004, you will undoubtedly become even more enamored by the 2005.

Mission Report:

The call came in the middle of the night.

“Go for red,” I answered groggily.

“Do you recognize my voice?”

I perked up almost immediately. It was Teech, a great asset and local college professor. Teech is a respected professor of Wine Industry Marketing at the Sonoma State University, and a great friend to the company.

Without saying her name, I replied, “I do. Go.”

“If I can guarantee your anonymity, will you come and guest lecture to my students?”

“I would be honored. Transmit the date and details, and I’ll be there. Depending on my mission on that day, I may have to come in disguise. That’ll help me keep my cover.”

She agreed and we signed off. A few minutes later, my smartphone chimed. Coordinates and full details were revealed to me on the small screen. I confirmed the date.

The weeks passed and I eventually found myself in front of a class of college students. I was there as a ‘wine industry marketing insider’, and I gave a talk on ‘alternative sales channels’. Actually, it was more like an informal dialog, with a short presentation and a longer Q&A session. It was good fun and almost all of the students actually stayed awake.

One student, in particular, had the tougher questions for me. I did my best to answer him, but as the questions became tougher, I realized that he was testing me. Was he trying to punch holes in my cover? I wondered. I kept my cool and decided to subtly press back.

It was obvious, to us both, what was happening here, so I made it a point to encourage other students to ask questions.

The presentation now over, the young man approached me. He reached into his jacket pocket. I tensed, ready to spring. He withdrew his hand – to reveal a business card. the card read, ‘Rodney Strong Vineyard’ and contained his name, [REDACTED], and title, [REDACTED].

I took the card and then accepted his outstretched hand. He said in a whisper, “Agent Red, I’m codename King. I’m your newest asset. I’ll be acting as your mole at Rodney Strong. I’ll reach out when I can secure a fantastic RS wine.”

I don’t know how he knew my true identity – and it didn’t much matter; And so a valuable new asset was developed. And, now you know how I came to procure today’s delicious Syrah for you!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Rodney Strong Vineyards (look for the the brick-colored, X-shaped building) can be seen in this satellite photo.