2006 Fratelli Giuliari ‘La Piccola Botte’ Amarone della Valpolicella

Mission Codename: Il Mio Primo Amore

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a very special Amarone for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fratelli Giuliari

Wine Subject: 2006 ‘La Piccola Botte’ Amarone della Valpolicella

Winemaker: Giuseppe Bassanelli

Backgrounder:

Amarone della Valpolicella is one of the most unique wines in all of Italy. Made in Italy’s northeast Veneto region and specifically in the Valpolicella DOC (near Verona), Amarone is made with grapes that are dried for several months on straw mats in the lofts above the farm houses or barns at the winery before being pressed and fermented. The dried fruit has a higher residual sugar which is mostly fermented away. This results in a dry wine of tremendous depth and intensity; in addition to a generally higher alcohol content.

Amarone is usually a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. On occasion, other varietals are blended into the mix. Amarone is aged for two years in oak barriques before being aged further in the bottle. These wines have a long life, with most Amarone showing its best character many years after their release. Flavors and aromas of complex dried fruit, chocolate and spice linger and meld with its distinct texture.

Today’s selection has a small amount of Barbera, which is not dried, added to its blend – a process and style unique to Fratelli Giuliari.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple and almost black with dark purple highlights in its dark almost inky core. Slightly thicker in viscosity and when swirled, slow thin legs with hints of color creep down the side of the glass to the wine below.

Smell – Bold and powerful aromas of port-like fruit including dried but sweet raisin and juicy currants layered over dark chocolate and subtle herbs and cardamon spice. Toasted and smokey oak (with vanilla) components and a subtle floral quality add complexity to the intense nose.

Feel – Velvet smooth, this dry to off-dry full-bodied wine has firm, but finely textured tannins and soft acidity. Well-structured, deep and chewy, coating and reaching to the far corners of the palate with a clay like minerality lingers into the finish.

Taste – Broad, muscular and expansive on the palate, this wine’s rich port-like flavors of dried fruit, fresh plum, and juicy currents are integrated with toasted and smokey oak. Decadent finely powdered dark cocoa, spice and herbs emerge creating an almost meaty character. A touch of fresh juicy fruit (from the Barbera) and dark minerals makes a subtle presence.

Finish – Long, rich and complex with persistent flavors of rich dark fruit, cocoa and oak linger with this wine’s textured tannins and minerality lingering for several minutes.

Conclusion – The 2006 Fratelli Giuliari ‘La Piccola Botte’ Amarone della Valpolicella is a delicious wine that will benefit tremendously by some maturation in the bottle. Rich and deep, with layers of complexity that unfold on the palate. Take your time with this one and you’ll be rewarded. It is almost a shame to have had to open this bottle now for the review – but when we get an exclusive wine, we want to make it available to you. Pick up a few bottles of this delicious wine, drink one this year (decant) and stash the rest in the back of your cellar. When the bottles are good and dusty in about 10 years pull one out – you’ll be treated to an amazing experience.

Mission Report:

We all have experiences that are the ”the tipping point” for our love of wine. This is the story of my first love, or in Italian Il Mio Primo Amore.

About 15 years ago, I had to visit New York City for business (before I had the pleasure of being a Wine Spy). My sister was going to school in the city and at the time was dating a great guy, we’ll call him Agent D who worked in the restaurant business.

We made dinner plans for Italian food and when we arrived at the restaurant, Agent D grabbed the wine list and his eyes lit up. He insisted we try this wine called Amarone della Valpolicella.

Now, I grew up with wine – we had wine with just about every dinner – but usually California styles. I had always enjoyed Italian wines but exposure to Italian wines was limited to the big three of Brunello, Barolo and Barbaresco (which, at the time, I could hardly afford); and of course plenty of Chianti. I had never tried Amarone. It was a bit more expensive than I wanted to spend, but I thought, what the heck I’m in NYC and life is good.

The waiter brought over the bottle, opened it up, we made sure it wasn’t tainted and then decanted it. As the wine was being carefully poured into the decanter, I caught a whiff of the aromas of dark fruit and chocolate and I knew at that moment I was in for a treat.

We poured our glasses, swirled and sniffed. The deep and complex aromas filled my head. I could hardly wait to take a sip. As I did and let the intense wine slide over my palate I just closed my eyes, savoring the moment before swallowing. The flavors lingered for what seemed an eternity. At that point, wine took on a new meaning for me – I was lost in the moment – a most delicious one.

A special thanks to Agent D, you know who you are, for introducing me to Amarone which ultimately lead me into my career in the wine business.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fratelli Giuliari near Verona, Italy can be seen in this satellite photo.