2005 Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Mission Codename: Grand Traditions

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a very special Grand Cru Burgundy in honor of Thanksgiving Day

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Tortochot

Wine Subject: 2005 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Winemaker: Gabriel Tortochot

Backgrounder:

Charmes-Chambertin is one of the nine Grand Cru vineyards in the Gevrey-Chambertin region of the Cote de Nuits. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the vineyards and lies to the south of the region, just east of the Route des Grand Crus (N74). The southern most portion of the vineyard is now referred to as Mazoyeres. These wines are known for showcasing Pinot Noir in its most pure form with ripe fruit and soft and elegant but still solidly structured.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and beautifully dark ruby red and burgundy with ruby and violet hues through its dark but clear core. Along the edges the color lightens slightly to a lighter ruby and when swirled, slow thin, but widely spaced legs creep down to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity, this elegant wine shows deeply integrated aromas of red cherry, floral violets, subtle spice and a hint of bramble over a base of toasted oak, funky earthiness and subtle chalky minerality.

Feel – This full-bodied wine has a muscular framework but, does so with elegance. And iron fist in a velvet glove, perhaps. Dry with silky but firm tannins and bright but balanced acidity and exceptional minerality linger for an eternity into the finish.

Taste – Exceptionally pure Pinot Noir flavors of red fruit, including red cherry along with subtle spice and earthiness. A chalky minerality that is both felt and tasted lingers over the palate with layers of floral violet, herbal notes and oak. Sublime in its integration.

Finish – Exceptionally clean and long with a textural quality that clings to the palate, making the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is a delicious and exceptional example of one of the world’s finest wine-growing regions. It is almost a shame to have tasted and reviewed this wine now, as its true potential lies a decade into the future. Finesse on the nose; bold and muscular, but not overbearing on the palate; elegance and purity in its flavors; and a finish that leaves you yearning for more. What else could you want? Allow this wine to open up and breathe for 30-60 minutes if enjoying it now, but if possible save a couple bottles for the future.

Mission Report:

Agent White on the Route des Grand Crus, France.
True identity concealed.

Below is a recap of Agent White’s and Blush’s recent visit to Burgundy.

… East Central France …

We began the day early as we wanted to hit the Route des Grand Crus with lots of time to enjoy the food and especially the wine. Zipping through the back roads from our safe house in Bar Sur Aube(south end of the Champagne region) to Dijon at this hour was fast but just outside of Dijon, we started to hit the normal business day traffic. Thankfully, the GPS devise in my handheld spy communicator quickly re-routed us around and soon we were headed south through some of the finest vineyards in all of Burgundy.

The N74, or Route de Dijon as its known officially but wine aficionados know this as the Route de Grand Crus. We slowed down and started taking it all in. The names of each commune and village familiar to anyone who has spent time in the French section of a good wine shop. The vineyards, this time of year, bare, with a slight fog resting in the lower valleys, and along the tops of the hills to the west. A slight drizzle fell creating an almost surreal experience as the fog and low clouds moved with the weather exposing and then rehiding these prized vineyards.

After our lunch in Beaune, Agent Blush and I had the chance to explore some of the smaller communes that overlooked the valley and in particular, the historic Gevrey-Chambertin with is many Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. Gevrey-Chambertin is located just a few miles south of Dijon. The wines from here are truly representative of the finesse and elegance that Burgundy is known for.

Quite simply, this is the life. While you may not have been able to join us on the Holiday in Beaune, today’s selection from Domaine Tortochot will at least give you a small bit of the flavor of the trip!

A votre sante!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Charmes-Chambertin can be seen in this satellite photo.