2005 Tremani Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Russian Attack!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Tremani Vineyards, and procure an ample allotment of their Single Vineyard Hansen Vineyard Russian River Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Tremani Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Hansen Vineyard Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Fred Hansen

Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler meritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Tremani’s Bynum’s extended focus on, and love for, the region means that their particular Pinot Noirs are beautifully crafted to reflect the best that the region has to offer. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting noted below for the full intel on this exciting wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful and dark with a hue that reminds me very much of a French Burgundy. Deep purple in color, this wine is is slightly darker through its heart, but maintains perfect clarity throughout. The surface of the wine is extremely taught and, when swirled, settles fast, leaving behind tightly-spaced columns of skinny legs

Smell – Lush and deep with a rich and earthy mid-intensity. The fruit shines through in this wine, delivering a tender rush of red cherry, raspberry, young strawberry, blackberry and soft pomegranate. These sit atop a delicate earthiness with soft forest floor, fresh spice, violets, cedar and a hint of tomato vine

Feel – This soft wine starts round and wet, but then gradually reveals a medium medium body with a bright acidity, velvety but slightly chewy tannins and hints of minerality

Taste – Tenderly integrated flavors of ripe red cherry, strawberry, blackberry bramble and a hint of blueberry tart. These are all tempered against hints of fresh herbs, soft spice, a lovely earthiness and hint of soft vanilla

Finish – Long and fresh, starting earthy and soft, then going more rich as the fruit lingers long after you sip. As the fruit tails off, soft spice and delicate minerality are revealed

Conclusion – A remarkable wine that we fell in love with on first sip, this Russian River Pinot Noir exhibits the best character that the region has to offer. Delicious and character-filled, this Cali-meets-Burgundy leans toward the California side, but with a distinct hint of French character that gives the wine a little something extra. Allow the wine at least 30 minutes of breathing time for maximum enjoyment. If you love great California Pinot Noir, please pick up some of this fantastic wine. With bright and juicy flavors, a tender feel and great aromatics, this wine is sure to please, now and through your holiday celebrations!

Mission Report:

This wine came to us by way of our newest Asset, codename Agent PAC.

PAC first reached out to me through back-channels some months ago. At first, I dismissed his attempts as mere chatter. His unsolicited intel briefings seemed to be a jumble of wine facts and figures. I realized, finally, that there were distinct patterns within these reports. Patterns which, when properly decoded, revealed hidden wine gems, that were well-deserving of my attention.

And so it was that I was led to today’s exceptional Russian River Pinot Noir, a wine of great character and fantastic drinkability. When I finally put all the pieces together, I paid a visit to the winery and sampled today’s wine. I was immediately struck but its beautiful nose and delicious complexity, the wine presenting a lovely balance between classic Russian River and old world Burgundy.

Agent PAC is now a trusted asset, and you’ll be sure to see more wines that are reconnoitered by him. For now, content yourself with today’s fantastic Pinot pick!

Cheers!

2005 Red Zeppelin Winery Black Zeppelin Paso Robles Red Wine

Mission Codename: Rockin from Graceland to Paso

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a limited allocation of the famed Black Zeppelin Paso Robles Red Wine

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Red Zeppelin Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Black Zeppelin Paso Robles Red Wine

Winemaker: Stillman Brown

Backgrounder:

Our Operatives love a great Syrah, and they snap them up in record numbers. Today’s Syrah-based blend (with a touch of Alicante Boushet and Cabernet Sauvignon) is a delicious and bodacious interpretation of the noble varietal. The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a big and bold delight with richly dark flavors, deep aromatics and a plush mouth feel.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and deep violet purple in color with garnet reflections through its dark but clear core. Along the edges, the color fades to a deep garnet and when swirled, this springy wine leaves super slow chubby legs along the side of the glass.

Smell – Both powerful but elegant with the Syrah showing first. Blackberry and plum with aromas of earth and spice, including black pepper are followed by notes of toasted oak and vanilla, tobacco and dark cocoa.

Feel – Velvet smooth, this rich, plush and balanced wine has superfine, almost powdery tannins and soft acidity. The tannic structure is enhanced by a touch of spice that emerges at the back of the palate and the tip of the tongue.

Taste – Luscious and rich dark fruit, including spiced dark plum and brambly blackberry (and other dark berries) are layered over subtle black pepper and spice, earthy notes, dark chocolate cocoa and a hint of floral violets, smokey oak and minerality.

Finish – Extremely long with lingering flavors of spiced and earthy fruit along with its supple super fine tannins, smokey oak and a hint of minerality beg for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Black Zeppelin Paso Robles Red Wine is a lovely rich and bold Syrah blend that screams Paso without the overly extracted flavors found by many of its contemporaries. Layers of rich fruit, spice, earthy minerality and other notes progress over the palate making this wine one you can enjoy on its own or as the perfect accompaniment to fall cuisine Bottled with a screw top, this wine can be enjoyed right now or cellared for years to come.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Stillman Brown

DATE OF BIRTH: Oct 6 57

PLACE OF BIRTH: Berkeley CA

WINE EDUCATION: I’m a UC Berkeley grad, but my wine education is from the University of Bordeaux; that is to say, Professor Emile Peynaud’s classic “Knowing And Making Wine” was first published in English in 1984, the year I entered the wine business. I must have read that book at least a dozen times.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Founder and winemaker, Jory Winery: 1986-2003; founder and winemaker, Red Zeppelin Winery, 2003-; founder and winemaker, Stillman Wines, 2001-. “Stillman” is my first name, and also my father’s, and I save it for special wines that might not fit into the Red Zeppelin portfolio. Of course, my dad gets free wine as a royalty payment for the use of his name. Ha!

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Start with superior grapes and don’t screw up. In the winery, I’m progressive/scientific. I’m not an additive freak, but I’m certainly not hands-off. Some bugs are great, others are lethal.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Syrah. Though I love Corton clone Chardonnay and 777 clone Pinot.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Winning the ‘Syrah Shootout’ at Hospice du Rhone last year, with a wine from a vineyard I planned myself, that had a government-approved label showing the death of Elvis Presley.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: My annual events, unquestionably acknowledged as the wildest winery parties in California. Yes, you’re invited. (Details at WetZeppelin.com.)

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Lord Almighty, I feel my temperature rising.” Then I turn on the tank’s cooling jacket.

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Stillman. We love you, we love your wines, and we are thrilled to be working with you again. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Hola, dude.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: When I was in high school in NY my father was a senior Pepsi exec – stop laughing, we were the only family among the big shots that didn’t have a Pepsi vending machine in the house, we just didn’t like it – and in order to get Pepsi into the USSR, Pepsi agreed to distribute Stolichnaya Vodka in the US. To do that they had to buy a NY company that was also a wine importer, etc etc . . . anyway, there were dinner parties at our house where some really fantastic wines were served. My mother, a native Californian like myself, drank Almaden, but that interested me somewhat less.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

WINEMAKER: From Peynaud’s book, and by osmosis; drinking and asking questions of other Santa Clara/Santa Cruz Mountain winemakers.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

WINEMAKER: . See above. Plant something that wasn’t there before, and if it works, you can then start with superior grapes. Don’t assume that you can just pick great grapes and crush them, and magically get a great wine that doesn’t need to be looked after.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: There’s definitely no single influence; I learned from everyone from the late Dave Bennion, who founded Ridge, to Adam LaZarre, the Central Coast ubervintner.

RED: We are good friends with Adam, as you know. Please don’t reveal his Wine Spies Agent Name, though. It’s too shocking! Tell me, how long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: 25 harvests in California, 8 in New Mexico (concurrently). I also have consulted in Arizona.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: Fans, friends, family and fruit flies. Other winemakers and critics can be in the first category, but only if their palates allow it.

RED: Tell me, what makes the west side of Paso Robles so special?

WINEMAKER: It’s the rockiest part of Paso Robles, and one of the coolest. Temperature wise, of course. Much of Paso Robles is too hot and fertile for the varietals planted there.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WINEMAKER: Make absolutely sure that you have the nose and palate for it, can identify basic characters and flaws that you’ll encounter, and yet still artistically appreciate great wines.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: I planned and planted this small block of grapes on the west side of Paso Robles, immediately south of L’Aventure, to 2310 vines of Syrah and 500 vines of Alicante Bouschet; I was told that it was the first planting of the latter, a cross between Grenache and Petit Bouschet, in the county in over sixty years. It’s a steep east facing hill that I named the Hill of Graceland in honor of the Australian property and of Elvis, who never drank wine or performed in Australia. I picked in late October of 2005 – immediately before the first rains, in fact – and blended with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from another Paso Robles vineyard, it was then aged in one year old Seguin Moreau barrels and bottled eighteen months later. It’s very big (32 proof) and full of black fruits, pepper, vanilla and oak; with some fine tannins, it formerly took an hour or so to open up, but it’s been maturing in the bottle. It’s probably the most awarded wine I’ve made this decade.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: Dry aged beef.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

WINEMAKER: That’s tough, because I’m an inveterate babbler; and Facebook has just made it worse. I suspect that everyone who knows me, knows too much about me. But for Wine Spies, I will admit that I like punk rock, regularly go into mosh pits, and have been known to stage dive.

RED: We appreciate that! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WINEMAKER: Pinot Noir, which I have planted but don’t currently make.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WINEMAKER: Parched, with a corkscrew and a large glass. In general, relaxed; even if you’re going to be analytical, it should still be fun.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WINEMAKER: La Tache, I suppose.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WINEMAKER: How was your annual winery party?
Wet Zeppelin was the wildest party wine country has ever seen. Several hundred people showed up, and after six bands and at least sixty gallons of wine, people were jumping off the pier, climbing on the roof, fighting in and outside the hall, and driving into public buildings. Jealous husbands threw chairs through walls, drunken security guards staggered away, letting yahoos in the back door to steal wine and get in wild mosh pits, with punks climbing on stage until they were kicked off. Large numbers of uniformed officers arrived, and politely suggested that we shut down (with 3 more bands still to go, including the infamous Dread Zeppelin) just before midnight. We raised thousands for our wine and viticulture scholarship, and everyone that didn’t get arrested or taken off in an ambulance had a great time!
See you next year?

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WINEMAKER: In the immortal words of Elvis Presley, who showed us the consequence of a wine-free lifestyle, “Thankyouverymuch!”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Stillman Brown, the winemaker at Red Zeppelin Winery can usually be found rocking out in Cayucos, CA.

2006 Bennett Lane Winery Maximus White Feasting Wine

Mission Codename: A feast for the senses

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit Bennett Lane and retrieve their delicious white ‘Feasting Wine’

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Bennett Lane Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Maximus White Feasting Wine

Winemaker: Rob Hunter

Backgrounder:

Napa Valley is well known as one of the best wine regions in the country. It is from here that the good folks from Bennett Lane Winery selected some amazing Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Muscat to carefully blend a white wine that captures the best of these varietals. A true feast for your senses.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Crystal clear pale straw yellow in color with a slightly thicker visual viscosity and when swirled, slow medium thick legs descend to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity with bright and fresh aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple, lime and clementines that are layered over floral sweet orange blossom and honeysuckle notes.

Feel – Fresh and crisp, with bright and tart acidity leads off on this medium bodied, but well structured dry white.

Taste – Light and fresh flavors of grapefruit, mandarin orange and other tropical fruits softened by other sweet and ripe tree fruit are framed by a lovely minerality and a subtle but sweet and rich honey component.

Finish – Extremely clean and refreshing and of medium length with lingering tart grapefruit, minerality and a tiny touch of sweet honey.

Conclusion – The 2006 Bennett Lane Winery Maximus White Feasting Wine is a lovely, fresh and easy white wine that is the perfect start to any meal or for a light lunchtime wine. Classic Sauv Blanc aromas and flavors along with its distinctive minerality kicked up a notch on the complexity scale with the addition of some Chardonnay and a touch of Muscat.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Rob Hunter, Bennett Lane Winery

DATE OF BIRTH: January 1960

PLACE OF BIRTH: San Francisco, CA

WINE EDUCATION: UC Davis, BS, Winery & Vineyard Management (Three Majors of Enology, Viticulture & Agricultural Economics)

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Internships Woodbury Winery, Dom. Chandon & Schramsburg. Asst Winemaker Groth V & W (83-86). Winemaker Robert Keenan(86-90), Lyeth(90-92) & Markam93-97). VP & Dir. Of Winemaking Sterling Vineyards(97-04). Winemaker @ Bennett Lane (2004 – present

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To highlight varietal fruit flavor by picking at flavor maturity rather than numerical ripeness.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Aromatic White and Bordeaux Red Wines

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Helping make the Groth 1985 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, the first US Robert Parker 100 point Wine.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Being elected to be the President of the Napa Valley Wine Technical Society. I nearly flunked Biochemistry 101B, had a horrible time with Chemistry overall, and never thought or even still think of myself as a “technical” type of Winemaker!!

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”My wines show my passion for perfection! One can never achieve true perfection, but they can strive for it through excellence. But you must always remember to keep your sense of humor!! Humor is infectious. Humor and Passion are the keys to life!”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Rob. We are thrilled to be showing your White Maximus today. Our Operatives loved your Red Max, so thanks for allowing us special access to today’s wine!

ROB: Always a pleasure, Agent Red.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

ROB: Yes, during my First internship working for Russ Woodbury.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

ROB: Probably working for Nils Venge at Groth. I learned about Winemaking at Davis, I learned how to make wine from Nils.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

ROB: To highlight the Varietal’s fruit flavor while taking a minimalistic approach in the cellar. Don’t over oak or over work the wines.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

ROB: The wines of Trimbach

RED: How long have you been making wine?

ROB: Since 1981, so that’s 29 years!!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

ROB: Predominantly Bennett Lane. That’s my “real job”!! I have my my own brand, Hunter III Wines, I also run my family’s Winery, Robert Hunter Winery, in Sonoma Valley, and I consult for Charter Oak Winery and Y3 Winery.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

ROB: Napa Valley has such a vast array of soil types and micro-climates that make it a wonderful patchwork quilt of unique viticultural areas to chose from.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

ROB: Study up, and find a small Winery where you can intern at. Then watch and learn. Make sure not to ask too many questions!! (Winemakers can be moody souls when they get busy!)

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

ROB: Worrying about the rain!!

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: The White Maximus is a delightfully aromatic wine, 88% SB, 10% Chard, 2% Muscat. The Chard is for body and texture. The wine should be served well chilled. Don’t worry, the Muscat’s aromatics come right through and make the wine delightful even when cold!!

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

ROB: Ceviche is fantastic!!

RED: Yum! Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

ROB: I was almost an opera singer.

RED: Cool. Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

ROB: Chardonnay, Bennett Lane Reserve, of Course!!

RED: Right answer! Now, how would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

ROB: With appropriate stemware. Poor stemware drives me crazy. You might as well drink it out of a coffee mug.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

ROB: Sauternes.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

ROB:What is your favorite type of cheese to go with wine? Morbier. It goes great with ANY wine, red, white, sauternes, even port!!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

ROB: Until next time, Agent Maximus, err, Red…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Bennett Lane Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The Ballad of the Black Beret

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit our friends at Grgich Hills Estate to acquire their delicious Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grgich Hills Estate

Wine Subject: 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

Backgrounder: In 1976, Mike Grgich rocked the wine world by creating a California that beat out French Chardonnays in the now famous Judgment of Paris. The French were outraged, and Mike Grgich earned the respect of wine drinkers and critics, worldwide. Today, Mike continues to oversee production of what have been heralded as “the finest wines in the world”. We are very proud to be able to bring you today’s fantastic Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet and purple with a dark almost inky core that reflects hints of ruby when held to the light. Along the edges, the color lightens just slightly to a dark ruby and when swirled, clusters of thin but colored legs descend to the wine below.

Smell – Medium-bold in intensity with classic dark fruit interfaced with spice, dried herbal bramble, a touch of toasted oak and dark cocoa. Hints of floral rose petals and black olive adds to the complex and very appealing and inviting nose.

Feel – Boldly structured but also smooth, this dry full-bodied wine shows super-fine firm tannins and extremely well balanced acidity that softens as this wine opens.

Taste – A rich array of brooding dark fruit including blackberry, black cherry, plum and cassis are well integrated with earthy undertones, cedar and spice. Black peppercorn and licorice flavors, also emerge and are layered over black olive, smoky toast and hints of dark chocolate cocoa.

Finish – Mouthwatering, this clean but well structured wine lingers with flavors of its rich dark fruit, spicy pepper and earth over its finely grained tannins.

Conclusion – The 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a slightly bigger, more powerful and intense than many of the Cabs we’ve tasted from the same vintage. The great spice, herbal notes and rich dense fruit make this wine perfect for richer meats or bolder kitchen creations. Enjoy this wine now or cellar for up to ten years, if you can hold out that long.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miljenko “Mike” Grgich

DATE OF BIRTH: April 1st, 1923

PLACE OF BIRTH: Desne, in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatian region

WINE EDUCATION: Attended University of Zagreb. Field of study, viticulture and enology

CALIFORNIA WINERIES EXPERIENCE: Christian Brothers Cellars, Souverain Winery, Robert Mondavi and Beaulieu Vineyard (with André Tchelistcheff)

FOUNDED NAMESAKE WINERY: Grgich Hills Cellar, founded 1977, renamed to Grgich Hills Estate in 2006

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To, ”… year after year, is to improve the quality of [the] vineyards and [the] wines” and to, ”… remain committed to making distinctive wines with quality, consistency and longevity”.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Chardonnay

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: In 1976, Mike Grgich’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won the infamous Judgement of Paris tasting, to become the best Chardonnay in the world. The fact that a California wine won the tasting shocked the wine world – and spurned Mr. Grgich on to great success with his own winery

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: On March 7, 2008, in recognition of his impact and contribution to the wine industry, Mr. Grgich was inducted into the Vintner Hall of Fame. The honor coincided with his 50th vintage of winemaking in the Napa Valley

GRGICH QUOTE: ”For years, everybody in the world believed that only French soils could produce great wines. We shattered that myth. That was probably the most significant result of the Paris tasting. Our victory pumped new energy into the California wine industry, particularly in the Napa Valley.”

BLACK BERET: Mr. Grgich wears an ever present black beret. It is rumored that the beret is imbued with magical energies that power his winemaking talents. Further investigation is required…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Grgich Hills Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Gundlach-Bundschu Winery Estate Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Old New Perfection

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Wine Spies favorite, Gundlach Bundschu, to raid the secret stash of their Library 2006 Pinot Noir. Procure all remaining cases for our GunBun-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Gundlach-Bundschu

Wine Subject: 2006 Estate Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Jeff Bundschu

Backgrounder: It is no secret that The Wine Spies love Gundlach Bundschu wines. This unique Sonoma Valley winery recently celebrated it’s 150th anniversary, making it one of the oldest and most well-respected wineries in the state. We love them for their people and for their wines, both of which are a delightful mixture of old-world and audacious.

Today’s wine is a superior example of Pinot Noir, delivering bold yet balanced character, great flavors and a beautiful mouth feel.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Ruby red with perfect clarity through its heart. This wine shows off perfectly concentrated color, right out to it’s glinting ruby edges. It shows a soft, tight surface that, when swirled, settles quickly, leaving behind skinny legs that take a moment to appear before they march steadily down the glass

Smell – Big, bright red cherry, with lush raspberry, young blackberry, fresh earthen spice, subtle espresso, a hint of oak and flinty gunpowder

Feel – Round and tender at first sip, then ultra-plush tannins gradually show up, adding a gentle grippiness as it coats the mouth – drying the tongue, cheeks and the top of the palate

Taste – Rich, complex and balanced, with delicious Bing cherry, red plum, young strawberry and soft herbs, with mild hints of leather, earth, gunpowder and soft flint

Finish – Mouthwatering and flavor-filled, with plush fruit, soft spice with highlights of white pepper that all lead to a soft dryness that encourages you to take another big mouth-full

Conclusion – We had the great pleasure to feature GunBun’s fantastic 2005 Pinot Noir last year. Today’s wine, their 2006, is a remarkable wine that seems to improve upon the previous vintage. This wine invites experimentation, tempting you to take small sips and large gulps for a deliciously varied experience with the wine. With a softness that makes the wine lush and pleasurable on the palate, the wine is so lovely in the mouth. Flavors and aromatics are in harmony, offering your senses a delightfully well-rounded and deeply delicious drinking experience. This wine gets a BIG wine Spies recommendation today!

Mission Report:

When we first infiltrated the Gundlach-Bundschu Winery in 2008, we came to recognize the passion that is apparent in each sip of their wonderful wines. Today, Gundlach-Bundschu is a Wine Spies favorite.

Below, you will find a recap of my first mission to Gundlach-Bundschu. First, however, I would like to provide you with an update on recent happenings at the Gundlach-Bundschu Winery.

Agent Green, our newest Wine Spies agent, heads up environmental initiatives for The Wine Spies. Green is keeps our operation in balance with the environment, and is always on the lookout for wineries that are employ or promote sustainable and renewable practices.

One of the wineries that caught Agent Green’s attention of late was, you guessed it, Gundlach-Bundschu. News of the planning and installation of an innovative new floating solar array was leaked to him by one of our moles at the winery, and Green even managed to intercept the following press release:

GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU INSTALLS FLOATOVOLTAIC™ SOLAR ARRAY

California’s oldest family-owned winery becomes first in Sonoma with floating solar-energy system

SONOMA, Calif. (December 2, 2008) – Gundlach Bundschu Winery capped off its 150th anniversary this year by installing two solar arrays on its Sonoma estate, including the first Floatovoltaic™ installation in Sonoma County, which was completed today.

Designed by Thompson Technology Industries (TTI) and installed by SPG Solar, Inc. of Novato, Calif., the 30-kilowatt Floatovoltaic system provides 100 percent of the power used by the winery’s water reclamation system. (A series of ponds and man-made wetlands filters all the winery waste water, ultimately recycling 70 percent for use in the vineyard.) This array consists of 162 Sharp solar panels on pontoons that float on one of the ponds, generating enough power to fully power the pumps, monitors and other electrical needs of the entire water reclamation system. Energy costs for water reclamation previously ran around $650 per month, but are now expected to range between $0 and $200 a year.

The second solar array at Gundlach Bundschu, which went live on November 20, 2008, is an 80-kilowatt ground-mounted system that provides 60 percent of the winery’s energy needs. Comprised of 450 Kyocera panels, it is expected to save the winery $15,000 annually. Evidence of its commitment to sustainability, Gundlach Bundschu pulled out 1.3 acres of five-year-old Dijon 667 pinot noir vines in July – an annual equivalent to $70,000 dollars’ worth of bottled Gundlach Bundschu wines – to install the system.

Sixth-generation vintner and Gundlach Bundschu President Jeff Bundschu is happy with this progress and will continue to actively look at every aspect of his business to promote conservation and eco-system health while producing the highest-quality wines.

“In addition to our existing practices in the vineyard and winery, including eliminating pesticides, using biodiesel, recycling water, reducing packaging and using recycled materials, the solar program is another important step in my family’s goal to become carbon neutral,” Bundschu said.
The winery plans to eventually receive 100 percent of its energy needs from solar, according to Bundschu.

Celebrating its Sesquicentennial in 2008, Gundlach Bundschu is the oldest family-owned winery in California, currently run by the sixth generation of the Bundschu family. The 320-acre estate vineyard was christened Rhinefarm in 1858 by Jacob Gundlach, who started the winery with son-in-law Charles Bundschu. This remarkable site at the base of the Mayacamas Mountain Range is located literally at the crossroads of the Sonoma Valley, Carneros and Napa Valley appellations. Gundlach Bundschu is open for tasting from 11:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily.

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Sixth-generation vintner and president Jeff Bundschu is continually, actively looking at every aspect of his business to promote conservation and eco-system health while producing the highest quality wines. “In addition to our existing practices in the vineyard and winery—eliminating pesticides, using biodiesel, recycling water, reducing packaging and using recycled materials—the solar program is another important step in our family’s goal to eventually become carbon neutral.”

Agent Green says, “Jeff Bundschu, you are my hero!”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Gundlach Bundschu Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Cosentino Winery Estate Gewurztraminer

Mission Codename: A Spicy Endeavor

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit Cosentino Winery and retrieve a great Gewürztraminer perfect for the fall holidays.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cosentino Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Estate Gewürztraminer

Winemaker: Mitch Cosentino

Backgrounder:

Gewürztraminer, perhaps one of the most distinctive white aromatic varietals is well known for its low acidity and characteristic spiciness, from which it derives its name. This spiciness comes from the terpenes found in the grape’s skins. At home in France’s Alsace region, Gewürztraminer also finds itself in many wine regions around the globe.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Glistening clear pale straw yellow in color with a slightly thicker viscosity and appearance. When swirled, this springy wine leaves behind thinly spaced thin legs that race down to the wine below.

Smell – Very aromatic with scents of sweet orange blossom honey, flint and mineral spice and soft rose petals over a bright, youthful and fresh lychee nut fruit component.

Feel – Smooth and dry, with the signature spice kick, this medium- to full-bodied white has a good structure over balanced acidity that holds the flavors long into the finish.

Taste – Fresh and crisp lychee and tart passion fruit flavors that are immediately followed by tangy spice kick. Hints of sweet honey, floral rose petals and minerality also add complexity.

Finish – Clean lingering with its signature spice and a touch of minerality that frames the tart and fresh fruit and honey flavors just long enough to invite another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Cosentino Estate Gewürztraminer is a lovely aromatic white wine with a lovely spice and balanced acidity that makes this wine a perfect pairing for spicy food. We enjoyed this wine with Chinese Kung Pao but would also recommend it with spicy buffalo wings and a fall football game. Don’t forget – Thanksgiving is coming and Gewürztraminer is the perfect compliment to your feast!

Mission Report:

What follows is Agent Red’s report on Cosentino, one of his favorite wineries of all time:

Cosentino Winery has two important distinctions; First, my favorite wine of all time was made by Mitch Cosentino, head of winemaking for the winery. Second, the Cosentino Winery was the most elusive and difficult to bring into the Wine Spies fold.

I first fell in love with Cosentino wines while on a (very rare for me) vacation. Agent X and I had just wrapped up a mission in Central America and, with a few days left before we were due to report back in, we decided to head to Costa Rica.

Once checked in to our hotel, Hotel Casa Marella, we decided to go for a swim in the infinity pool. The pool, which overlooked the Pacific Ocean, offered a spectacular view of the ocean and the town below. I was in heaven.

Heaven got even better when Agent X arrived, a bottle of wine in hand, and a giant smile on her face. It was twilight, so I could not make out the label. She opened the bottle, poured and handed me a glass. I took it eagerly.

On inhaling the wine, I knew that it was not a Chilean wine (the most common wine found in Costa Rica). I also knew that it was an exceptional wine, maybe even a California wine. One sip, and the heaven I was in got even better.

“What’s this,” I asked.

“This? Oh, its just that bottle of Cosentino we’ve been saving”

I was shocked, but very pleasantly surprised. How had she managed to smuggle this bottle along on this trip? Had she sent it ahead? That did not make sense, as this part of our trip was improvised.

Rather than press her for details, I simply enjoyed the wine. Drinking wine in a swimming pool overlooking the ocean is a wonderful thing to do. Add a Cosentino wine and the wonderful becomes far more so!

Getting back to how difficult it was to infiltrate Cosentio, I will say that it the delay may have just come down to poor spy-craft. I was just knocking on the wrong doors at the winery. For nearly two years.

So, dear Operative, this mission report is really my Mea Culpa. I did a bad job and it took me way too long to bring you a Cosentino wine. This mission is also my way of making it up to you! Today’s Zinfandel, made by master winemaker, Mitch Cosentino, is a great wine at a remarkable price.

The winery loves what we Wine Spies are up to and they allowed us special access to their wine archives. We pulled out today’s wine for you as the first of what we expect to be a handful of additional Cosentio wines that we’ll bring you this year.

A special thanks to Agent S2 (our new inside man at the winery) and to Mitch Cosentino for hosting us at our private tasting recently. It was great fun to hang out with you both – and to listen to Mitch tell us everything about wine, growing and winemaking. We learned a ton and we loved drinking through your wines with you!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Cosentino Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Wirra Wirra Vineyards Woodhedge Shiraz

Mission Codename: Amongst The Gum Trees

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a highly accoladed Aussie Shiraz for our thirsty operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Wirra Wirra Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Woodhedge Shiraz

Winemaker: Samantha Connew, James Rouse & Paul Smith

Backgrounder:

The McLaren Vale regional zone in South Australia is located just south of Adelaide is known for big reds. Its climate and complex soils suits a wide range of grapes but the region is best known for Shiraz (Syrah) and Cabernet Sauvignon. While genetically the same as Syrah, this grape adopts its local character and Terroir to become distinctly Aussie in style. Incidentally, the name Shiraz comes from the capital of Fars (Persia) even though this grape traces its roots back to French breeding.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and dark garnet with an almost inky dark core. When held to the light ruby reflections shine through. Along the edges, the color remains dense and when swirled, widely spaced thin legs also show hints of color as the ring the glass.

Smell – Rich and bold aromas of dark berries and ripe plum, wild anise and herbal notes. As this wine opens, hints of vanilla and caramel interlace with toasted and smokey oak and a touch of black pepper, mocha and floral violets.

Feel – This dense and full-bodied wine is smooth and dry with firm, full but smooth textured tannins and medium acidity provides a chewy feel that spreads over the palate and holds the flavors long into the finish.

Taste – Expansive layers of dark fruit and plum, wild anise, oak and black pepper are richly integrated with mild spice, herbal notes and tobacco. Big and bold, with classic ripe Shiraz flavors.

Finish – Extremely long with this wine’s persistent textured tannins leading the way and supporting the rich and dense fruit, spice and other complex flavors.

Conclusion – The 2006 Wirra Wirra Vineyards Woodhedge Shiraz is a lovely and purely Aussie styled Shiraz with great bold fruit flavors and a structure that doesn’t hold anything back. Dense and complex. Give this wine some time to open up so all its deeply layered flavors emerge and let it take you on a journey ‘down under’.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Samantha ’Sam’ Connew

DATE OF BIRTH: 09/1971

PLACE OF BIRTH: Christchurch, Noo Zealand

WINE EDUCATION: LLB/BA; PG Dip Vit and Oen.; currently studying Masters in Wine Science and Viticulture

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Fail again, but fail better”; actually I think that was Samuel Beckett’s philosophy as well!

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Sauvignon Blanc

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: My blonde highlights are pretty good at the moment, I must say!

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Errr, isn’t this the same as above? How many highlights can a person have? But seriously, it was a wonderful experience to be awarded the 2007 Red Wine Maker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge in London, never before have I had such a worthwhile opportunity to consume fine champagne, and lots of it….

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Yabba Dabba Do!”

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WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Sam. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Woodhedge Shiraz today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

SAM: ….and thank you to you guys for picking up on Woodhenge Shiraz, I hope that your customers enjoy the wine, we sure do!

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

SAM: After taking the road most travelled by studying hard to become a lawyer, I fell into the perennial students trap of accepting meagre wages for major work in hospitality. It was here at the famous Annie’s Wine Bar in Christchurch that I was exposed to the great wines of the world, and the serious fun that they guarantee in those that consume them.

WHITE: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

SAM: It is very difficult to pinpoint the one single place where I learnt about wine, in many ways I believe that to make good wine consistently I need to continue to have a curious mind. The range of experiences that I have gained over many years, with producers as diverse as Beaux Freres in Oregeon, Cape Mentelle in Margaret River, and Brokenwood in the Hunter Valley have all contributed greatly to the wines that I make and love today.

WHITE: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

SAM: Myself and the winemaking team at Wirra Wirra aim to make wines that are representative of the two main regions from which we source grapes, the cool climate Adelaide Hills for our premium whites, and McLaren Vale which forms the historical home of both Wirra Wirra and our red wines. We look to communicate the integral varietal characteristics and distinguished vineyard sites from which we draw our fruit. A case in point, the Woodhenge Shiraz named for the massive Post and Rail fence which borders one of our best shiraz vineyards situated directly out the front of the winery, shows the plums and rich dark berry fruits of the variety, coupled with the round silky texture, and intense mid palate power for which McLaren Vale is so well known.

WHITE: How long have you been making wine?

SAM: far longer than I ever would have survived as a lawyer.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

SAM: I make wine for the faithful supporters of Wirra Wirra who have stuck by us through fad, famine, and in some cases fame. It is both a humbling (and nerve racking) experience to make wine for people who have deliberately purchased and cellared many vintages of either Woodhenge, Church Block, or RSW with the expectation of enjoying these wines with friends and family on a future occasion.

WHITE: Tell me, what makes the McLaren Vale so special?

SAM: McLaren Vale is a vibrant community with a strong artisanal food and wine culture, with some of the oldest olive groves in Australia, the very best local cheese producers, and some of the best beach fishing in Australia. From a wine perspective McLaren Vale is lucky to be home to some of the oldest pre-phylloxera vineyards in Australia (and therefore the world), which are a treasured resource for the local custodians of these invaluable vines. Coupled with a Mediterranean climate of warm, dry days in summer and cool wet winters all mediated by our proximity to the Gulf St Vincent assists in development of wonderfully intense flavour and colours, whilst retaining acidity.

WHITE: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

SAM: Get a real job! This wine making caper is only for masochists.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

SAM: trying to locate my unruly chocolate Labrador, who sometimes responds to the name Murphy (Brown) and seems to have developed a habit of removing the bungs from our oak barrels and burying them in the Woodhenge vineyard…..

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

SAM: see winemaking style and philosophy.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

SAM: Rare Lamb with cinnamon, cardamom and quince.

WHITE: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

SAM: that I am training for the New York marathon, for which I have yet to find a way to explain to Wirra Wirra that they will be providing the flights….

WHITE:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

SAM: a refreshing ice cold Adelaide Hills or Eden Valley Riesling as they bone dry with fantastic pure citrus and lime flavours and amazing acid line. They are the last bastion of great value whites in the Australia. Failing that I have soft spot for Chablis.

WHITE: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

SAM: with a glass in hand, an open mind, and hopefully to be enjoyed with family and friends. I enjoy the company of those people that think deeply about what they consume, and those that are fun to be around while I think about what we are drinking.

WHITE: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

SAM: a fresh manzanilla sherry with just shucked oysters, or any good red burgundy from 1999 with hand-made pasta and fresh truffles.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Wirra Wirra Vineyards in the McLaren Vale can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Miro Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Miro, Miro on the wall

Operative: Agent Petite Sirah

Objective: Send new recruit, Agent Petite Sirah, to infiltrate Miro Cellars, secure an ample allocation of Miro’s highly-rated 2006 Petite Sirah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Miro Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

For today’s wine, Agent Petite Sirah cuts her teeth on her first official mission. She infiltrated Miro Cellars to procure their fantastic 2006 Petite Sirah, a wine that is much sought after by the winery’s most ardent fans. Read Agent Petite Sirah’s mission notes and tasting notes below, for the full story on today’s wine – and then read Agent Petite Sirah’s interview with Miro Tcholakov!

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest purple with an inky Burgundy heart, a solidly snappy surface, darkly concentrated purple edges with tightly-spaced legs that emerge quickly and then streak down the glass in thin columns

Smell – Lush and dark, with an initial rush of jammy blackberry that gives way to earthy bramble, blueberry, black currant, black cherry, soft oak and black pepper

Feel – Light and cool on the initial entry, fine at the very tip of the tongue – then a mid-palate grippy dryness sneaks in, drying the roof of the mouth, the lips and cheeks, as the wine coats the mouth with rich tannins

Taste – Deep and delicious with beautifully balanced sweet and lightly tart flavors of dark stonefruit, blackberry and plum. After a moment, the wine reveals young strawberry, tart cherry, oak, black pepper and dusty chocolate powder

Finish – Slightly dry, very flavorful and deeply delicious, with big dark flavors that begin slightly tart, and then go sweet as flavors tail off over a long time, leaving behind a lovely but subtle minerally black pepper

Conclusion – It may be obvious, given my Agent name, that I love great Petite Sirah. What you should know about me, up front, is that I am notoriously difficult to please when it comes to my favorite varietal. This wine, from Miro Cellars, is a remarkably great Petite Sirah. It is well worthy of the praise heaped upon it from the wine press and competitions around the world. Where many California Petites tend to be fantastically huge, this wine holds everything together in perfect balance. Don’t get me wrong; The wine does present big, bold flavors and deep aromatics, but there is also a fineness to the wine, with lighter flavors and an up-front softness that I really found intriguing. With bright acidity, this wine is well suited to pairing with many different foods. This is a rare quality for many a Petite, so I give this wine my full approval. Enjoy!

Mission Report:

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: 02.04.1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: So far I made my mark with Petite Sirah for the Miro brand, with my other jobs I have done very well with other varieties and blends. In general I’m very fond of perhaps the only two varieties that California has claim to fame as truly “heritage” –P. Sirah and Zinfandel. My Petite has done well with the gate keepers and media so far.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.
I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country…
There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!

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MIRO INTERVIEW

AGENT PETITE SIRAH: Greetings, Miro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Petite Sirah today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIRO TCHOLAKOV: A pleasure. My ’06 has become very popular and your Operatives are going to see the last of it.

PETITE SIRAH: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIRO: I don’t think that there was any specific event-wine has always been part of our life back in Bulgaria. We made every year about 1000 liters and manage to drink most of it before the next harvest. Wine has always been part of the life circle, just like making cheese or jam or tomato sauces. We also made grappa every year. My grandfather Mariano was the initial inspiration and the first hand source of winemaking knowledge.

PETITE SIRAH: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIRO: The real winemaking I learned during my first years at Dry Creek. I’m not done with the learning by any means yet. Back in Bulgaria we made the wine in the most pure way possible. We rarely used even sulfur! No additives and none of the modern gadgets-just grapes and barrels.

PETITE SIRAH: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MIRO: Don’t play with the wine just because you know how. Only intervene when you absolutely have to and you are sure of the outcome. Always pay attention to the details all the time. Everything you do to the wine-matters!

PETITE SIRAH: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIRO: Well I don’t think there is just one person-it is more of a collective of people and styles. I do not believe that I have a particular style per say-I just try to get out of the grapes the most from every vintage-and that would be different every year.

PETITE SIRAH: How long have you been making wine?

MIRO: Legally? Commercially –this harvest was my number 20!

PETITE SIRAH: Who do you make wine for?

MIRO: I guess I can say that first I want to be satisfied with the wines I make and of course it will be great if a lot of people including media like them as well. Otherwise I’ll have a lot of wine to drink by myself…

PETITE SIRAH: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

MIRO: Well, I always had a soft spot for Dry Creek even after moving to Alexander Valley. Dry Creek is less uniform geologically and climate wise than say AV. There are many secluded little vineyards hidden in some small valleys or hill tops. I love the red dirt on the slopes. I just like the flavors that all that combination of dirt and climate do to Zin and PS.

PETITE SIRAH: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MIRO: You have to love the job. If you are in it just 8 to 5 don’t even think about it. If the love and passion are not there you will be just a booze maker. Also you have to be willing to sacrifice a lot of time and long days and hours away from the family.

PETITE SIRAH: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: It is Harvest!! Everything that I normally do plus Harvest on top of it.

PETITE SIRAH: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MIRO: 2006 Petite is probably the most ready to drink yearly Petite I’ve ever made. The 06 harvest was not exactly a perfect one especially for the late ripening varieties but PS is not one of them. From winemaking point of view I prefer fermenting PS in open top and basically think of it as Pinot with a bit more air exposure. It is an easy to understand wine-just big, dark and delicious. It has a mile long finish and it will stand the test of time and only get better. It has a very seductive sweet and ripe aroma that will make you keep smelling it until the last drop.

PETITE SIRAH: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Petites usually go well with the category of comfort foods-anything related to fall and winter. Meat with root vegetables like stew, oven roasts, something cooked slowly for a long time. Also as a no brainer-grilled meats. Occasionally I love it with the Chicken Livers dish at the Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg.

PETITE SIRAH: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIRO: I wanted to be a MD back in Bulgaria but my girlfriend talked me out of it

PETITE SIRAH: Thank goodness for us fans of your wines! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIRO: Rhone wines for sure. I even make one for a winemaker called Cuvee Sasha a GSM-simply delicious without all the pretence.

PETITE SIRAH: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MIRO: Think of them as $100 bottle of wines and you will not be disappointed. I hate the cliché but they are “affordable luxury”

PETITE SIRAH: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MIRO: I would like to try again the 1927 Château D’yquem

PETITE SIRAH: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MIRO: Have I been connected to KGB? The answer is –perhaps!

PETITE SIRAH: Our intel reports were correct then! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MIRO: Thank you, Agent Petite Sirah!

2008 Merryvale Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Only Show in Town

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative favorite, Merryvale, this time to recover a cache of their fabled Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Merryvale Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemakers: Sean Foster and Larry Cherubino

Backgrounder: We had the great fortune to be able to bring you Merryvale’s 2006 and 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir, so as soon as we received intel that 2008 was about to be released, we dispatched Agent Red to the winery, to secure an exclusive allotment for our Operatives – before the wine is made available to the general public.

Regional Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir and Pinot thrives here. Merryvale is a Wine Spies favorite and we are proud to bring you today’s very special limited-production wine. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic Pinot Noir.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy in color, with edges that fall off to a glimmering pink. When viewed from an angle, this wine has a slightly opaque look to it. However, view the wine from the top, or through the sides of the glass and you see something altogether different! The wine shows as perfectly clear, with beautifully concentrated color through its slightly darker heart. When swirled, the wine appears tight and springy, with a dynamic and snappy surface that settles quickly, leaving behind tight clusters of skinny legs that streak down the glass

Smell – Lush, bright and softly earthy, with dark cherry, cranberry, supple spice, subtle gunpowder, rhubarb and soft smoke

Feel – Light and soft up front, but only for a moment. Soon after sipping, supple tannins take gentle hold at the edges of the mouth, drying the mid palate, the tongue and the lips cheeks, with flinty minerality

Taste – Tart and juicy cherry, cranberry and soft white pepper spice, with follow-on flavors of cassis, cigar box, sweetwoods, subtle leather and chalky earth

Finish – A medium-length finish that is extended when the wine has been decanted. The wine starts darkly juicy and slightly tart. Then, soft spice appears as flavors gently tail off

Conclusion – We had the great fortune to bring you the previous two vintages of this wine. Each time, the wine was impressive and delicious. While today’s wine shows a little young, it shows fantastic promise. I find the wine completely ready to drink now, but I am excited about the bottles that I have stashed away in my cellar. Youthful and bright, with great, earthy flavors that remind me of a French Burgundy, this wine is delicious and good fun to drink. With great acidity, this is a great food wine that won’t muscle your finer meals to oblivion. Pair this great wine with nearly anything, and be sure to decant for at least 30 minutes for best enjoyment. I love Merryvale wines, and I love great Carneros Pinot Noir. What a pleasure it is when these two combine to deliver a fantastic Merryvale Carneros Pinot Noir!

Mission Report:

[What follows is my original mission report, in which Agent Red first infiltrated Merryvale]

Merryvale hosts their own ‘Wine Component Tasting’ seminar every Saturday & Sunday morning at 10:30 a.m. The fourth weekend of every month is Merryvale’s ‘Food & Wine Pairing’ seminar.

These events provided me with the perfect opportunity for some close surveillance of this respected winery. I wasted no time and signed up for both, which actually proved to be not only deeply informative from a Wine Spies intel-gathering perspective, but also from a wine drinker’s perspective. The two events were also great fun and the Merryvale winery is amazing!

The Wine Spies strive to have a low impact on the environment, but Merryvale takes this sort of responsibility to an extreme. Wherever possible, The Wine Spies use earth-friendly materials such as pulp wine shippers and recycled packing materials. We drive hybrid spy cars, keep office lights dimmed or turned off during the day and we recycle relentlessly. Merryvale does all of these things – and way more.

On arrival at the Merryvale Vineyards facility, the first thing that I noticed were the seemingly acres of solar panels covering the rooftop of their 60,000 foot building.

Once inside for the morning component tasting, I learned that Merryvale completed the installation of its 277kW solar electric system in 1996, before being green was chic.

The solar array generates enough clean electricity each day to power nearly 80 homes and will spare the air nearly 473 tons of harmful greenhouse gases annually. Over the next 30 years, the air pollution saved will be equivalent to driving over 32 million miles.

The winery’s solar system will provide 90-100% of the winery’s electricity needs on an annual basis for the company’s 60,000 square foot building.

Merryvale’s foremost reason for installing the array is to utilize green energy. This is an effort that we applaud and one that we are happy to be seeing at more and more wineries these days.

The component tasting and the pairing seminar were both exceptional and I recommend these for anyone looking to expand their knowledge of wine. While the winery and the classes were great, far more impressive are Merryvale’s incredible wines.

Winery Location:

The Merryvale Vineyards remarkable Starmont facility can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Trinitas Cellars Napa Valley Meritage

Mission Codename: Flag Signals

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit Trinitas Cellars and retrieve their flagship Meritage

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trinitas Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Napa Valley Meritage

Winemaker: Kevin Mills

Backgrounder:

Meritage (pronounce like ‘heritage’, no French style accent) wine, blends made in the tradition of the great wines of Bordeaux can only carry the name if the winery is a member of The Meritage Association based in Sonoma County. Most wines made in the US are varietal wines, comprised of over 75% of a single varietal. Unfortunately, this labeling requirement is believed to impair many winemakers from making exceptional blends, since they are often labeled as simply Red Table Wine with the noble grapes of Bordeaux. Thus in 1988 Meritage was born as a way to highlight the winemaker’s art of careful blending and crafting of wines in the tradition of some of Europe’s finest wines.

Today’s selection is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Cabernet Franc, 14% Merlot, 9% Malbec and is aged for 18 months in 100% new French Oak.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep purple with crimson and ruby reflections through its dense dark but clear core. Along the edges, the color remains dense but slightly lighter purple and when swirled, slow fat legs creep down the side of the glass and thin as they descend.

Smell – Medium in intensity with a youthful quality. Smokey herbs layered over sweet ripe bramble fruits and other dark berries. Complex notes of earthiness and anise blend with toasted vanilla, mocha coffee and dark chocolate.

Feel – Smooth and rich with a slight spice kick at mid-palate, this youthful wine show tremendous finesse with its finely textured tannins and mild but balanced acidity. Mouth-coating and almost chewy, with a structure that lingers long into the finish.

Taste – Flavors of vibrant and ripe blackberry, black cherry and plum are well integrated with toasted oak, mocha coffee, subtle anise and complex dried herbs as well as a hint of earthiness and dark chocolate.

Finish – Clean and long with the rich and vivid fruit supported by a smooth but mouth-coating tannic structure. Hints of dark chocolate and and mocha emerge just in time to invite another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Trinitas Cellars Napa Valley Meritage is a delicious and truly California-styled red blend that is showing tremendous elegance, even in its youth. Rich and vibrant fruit blend with other complex flavors make this wine very approachable. Drinking wonderfully right now, this lovely wine will continue to develop for years to come so be sure to hold a bottle or two back int he cellar – that is if you can.

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of Agent Red’s original mission when he visited Trinitas Cellars:

Located at the southern end of the Napa Valley, nestled behind the Meritage Resort & Spa and buried in and underground cave, lies a remarkable secret: Trinitas Cellars.

Trinitas first came to my attention while on stakeout during a prior mission. I was on a vetting mission and was keeping an eye on a potential new asset. If this person proved to have the connections that she was reported to, I’d be recruiting her by days end.

I had followed her to the Meritage Resort, when she was having what looked to be a poolside meeting with a group I recognized as some heavy-hitters in the biz. These guys are all business and so I knew that my target must have the chops that her dossier suggested.

A waitress offered me a menu but I politely waved it away. Instead, I simply asked her for a glass of their best house Pinot Noir.

The wine arrived. The waitress set it down on the table in front of me. I handed her a $20 and told her to keep the change. I sat and watched my target for some time before finally picking up the wine.

I inhaled deeply – and the hairs on my neck stood up. This, I could tell, was one excellent wine! I spent the next several minutes enraptured by the wine. It was a young wine, I could tell, but it was very impressive.

When I finally looked up, my target was gone! How could I let myself be so distracted? On scanning the area, my eyes came to rest on an anomaly in the landscape; The hill that sat behind me, over my right shoulder, was obviously manmade. I had seen enough ‘hills’ like this to know that it was a wine cave!

I got to my feet and dashed toward the hill. Cleverly concealed as it might have been, I quickly found the entrance. Once inside I made my way through the cavern, eventually finding – a full tasting room!

And there, at the bar, was my target and her cohorts.

The woman behind the bar beamed at me and said, “Welcome to Trinitas Cellars!”

Trinitas, eh? This requires deeper investigation…

Agent Red, out!

Agent White, reporting:

Is Agent Red losing it? Does he need glasses? The sign above the wine cave clearly reads, “Trinitas Cellars”. At least he returned to HQ with samples of that Pinot Noir. The Pinot, of course, turned out to be a 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir from Trinitas – and today we are proud to present you with an opportunity to try this special wine for yourself.

As for Agent Red and his mission worthiness, we are recommending that he be placed under closer scrutiny. His wine-finding skills are still top-notch, but his methods and his reports leave just a tad to be desired!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trinitas Callears cave tasting room and winery can be seen, behind the Meritage Resport & Spa, in this satellite photo.