2005 Raymond Burr Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The Case of the Consummate Cab

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Raymond Burr winery, to retrieve their stellar 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon – before it goes on lock-down!

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Raymond Burr Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Phyllis Zouzounis

Backgrounder: Our Operatives know that we are huge fans of Raymond Burr wines. We have featured a handful of their wines previously, and today’s 2005 Cab, a brilliant blend of 85% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Estate Cabernet Franc, proves to be just as fantastic as the rest. The 2004 vintage of this wine won a 2008 Wine Intrigue Award Winner as Agent Red’s Top Selection. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and click the big blue button to grab some of this special wine – before we run out

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet, with a darker, concentrated heart and ruby hued-edges. When swirled, this wine has a soft bounciness to it that leaves behind intriguing legs that start off fat and slow, but then turn quickly skinny as they crawl slowly down the glass

Smell – Lush and intense with earthen aromas of blackberry bramble, blackberries, smoky dark cherry, and chocolate. These are gently layered atop floral aromas of violet, sweetwoods, oak and soft minerals

Feel – Soft and light weight, slightly dry on the initial attack. Then, this wine digs in, revealing a supple, medium-body with medium-firm, but fine and well-structured tannins. A balanced acidity rounds out the great overall feel

Taste – Bold and delicious, finely balanced with well integrated flavors from both the Cabernet Franc and the Cabernet Sauvignon in the wine. Brightly tasty flavors of ripe red cherry, plum, ripe blackberry and mocha with a hint of oak, minerals and subtle spice

Finish – Clean, bright and long with lingering ripe blackberry, semi-tart cherry, soft minerals and a hint of smoky plum. The wine is lightly mouth-coating and as flavors tail off, the mouth waters – telling you in no uncertain terms that is time for another delicious mouthful

Conclusion – I had great expectations of this wine – and I was not disappointed! This is a terrifically delicious wine with plenty of flavor, character and complexity. As a fan of Cabernet Franc, I am all to aware that sometimes Franc can overpower a Cabernet Sauvignon when used as a blending component. I was really pleased with how beautifully integrated the Franc was in this wine, complimenting the flavors and feel with a bright suppleness and aromatic appeal. Raymond Burr Vineyards deserves all of the praise that we continue to shower on it. Their wines are consistently fantastic.

Mission Report:

Now that we are great friends with the folks at Raymond Burr Vineyards, additional surveillance or infiltration is not necessary. Now that they have been recruited into The Wine Spies Network, they contact us through back-channels when they have a special allocation of our Operatives..

No new mission report today, so please read below for a recap of our initial mission to Raymond Burr Vineyards.

Please note that we enjoyed today’s featured 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon even more than the Cabernet Franc that we featured previously

Prior Mission Recap:

Ask anyone to describe Raymond Burr in a single word and, resoundingly, you will likely hear, Classy.

The veteran actor, for whom today’s winery was honorarily named, was also a cultivator of orchids, a war hero, a philanthropist and more. Most of all, he was cherished and loved by his close friends, who say that his warmth, humor and compassion made him a remarkable man.

When I was given the mission – finally – to seek out a new Cabernet Franc, I riffled through my mental Rolodex and recalled hearing great things about a Cab Franc from Raymond Burr Winery. In fact, it was in the most unusual way that I had come to hear of the wine in the first place.

On returning from a mission to Latin America, our flight got in to Miami too late to make our connecting flight back to California. the airline put us up in a swanky hotel and the next morning we found ourselves in a shuttle back to the Airport. I struck up a conversation with a young couple who were also on our inbound flight and, as always, I steered the conversation toward wine. We compared tastes in varietals and found that Cab Franc wines were among our very favorites. We traded recommendations and they assured me that Raymond Burr had a wine that I would be sure to love.

Now that I was finally assigned a Cab Franc mission I knew just where to go, so I called proprietor and long time companion to Mr. Burr, Robert Benevides. I used the direct approach and told him that I was very interested in sampling his wine and, if they passed the test, feature his Cabernet Franc here for our Operatives to enjoy.

I enjoyed this exceptional wine more with each sip. With enough time to stretch out in the air, the wine really opens up and loses the rough edges present on opening. For best results, decant the wine for a few hours – and enjoy at cellar temperature.

Aromas, flavors, acid and mouth-feel are all in harmony here and the finish is really very unique. If you love incredible Cabernet Franc, look no further Operative, its right here.

Finally, I remember hearing a story about Mr. Burr that sums up his life and his wines: While working with Errol Flynn, Flynn told Mr. Burr that if he died with ten dollars in his pocket he hadn’t done a good job. This inspired Mr. Burr to always share his wealth with all. His legacy lives on in today’s wine from Mr. Burr’s namesake winery.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Raymond Burr Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Rosenthal – The Malibu Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Newton Canyon Redux – Part II

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revist our good freinds at Rosenthal to bring you an exceptional Cabernet.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Rosenthal – The Malibu Estate

Wine Subject: 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Christian Roguenant

Backgrounder:

Cabernet Sauvignon, long the favorite varietal from Napa Valley and certainly among the most noble grapes. But did you know that the unique climate of Newton Canyon in the foothills of northern Malibu also provide the idea conditions to grow Cabernet Sauvignon? Network Canyon is a single vineyard AVA on the south-facing slopes of the Santa Monica Mountains and was formally designated in 1996.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple, almost black in color, with a dark inky core that fades ever so slightly to garnet and ruby along the edges. When swirled ruby red reflexes glisten and slow moving and thick legs cling to the sides of the glass.

Smell – Intense black fruit including blackberries are layered over woody notes of cedar and oak. Complex hints of mocha, earth, tobacco and spice round out the lovely bouquet of this wine.

Feel – This wine is full-bodied, smooth and dry with solid firm but fine tannins and balanced acidity and shows tremendous finesse and elegance in its structure.

Taste – Excellent layers of rich and plush dark black and red fruit including blackberries and cassis. This wine also has exceptionally balanced hints of oak and cedar along with a nice earthy minerality, mocha, and a lingering flavors of spice and black pepper.

Finish – A clean and long lingering finish that leaves you with flavors of ripe fruit, toasty oak and spice.

Conclusion – Each time we taste a Rosenthal Cabernet we are beyond impressed. It seems that each vintage is better that the previous. The 2004 vintage is a more traditional Cabernet than the 2003 showing excellent balanced flavors of fruit, oak, spice and a structure that will allow this wine to further develop as it ages.

Mission Report:

Summer in Southern California, does it get any better? The last couple days remind us of why I love running to SoCal operations center.

Having wrapped up our recent intel projects on some great Italian wines, I had some free time. I decided to take a trip up the coast. Along the way, it occurred to me that I should check in with one of our inside agents at Rosenthal to see how their progress of the 2004 Cabernet is coming.

It was strange, I hadn’t heard much about the 2004 vintage yet – no doubt after the tough 2003 vintage, but we had no reports from the field. Upon arriving at the prescribed meet point, Agent Blanc (don’t blow her cover, but you may know her if you’re a member of the wine club) handed me bottle of their 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon.

“I can make some of this available to your operatives,” Agent Blanc said, “but tell no-one.” Trying to hide my excitement and thinking to myself ”another Wine Spies exclusive”, Agent Blanc continued “this wine is only available on a limitted basis, but I know you’ll love the wine.”

Love the wine we did; we love all the wines from Rosenthal that are expertly crafted by winemaker Christian Roguenant and this one is exceptional. Once you try this wine, we know you’ll agree.

It’s nice to be a Wine Spy!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Rosenthal – The Malibu Estate vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Domaine du Colombier Hermitage AOC (Rouge – Syrah)

Mission Codename: Hermitage Heritage

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Select a classic wine from France’s Northern Rhone.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine du Colombier

Wine Subject: 2004 Hermitage AOC

Winemaker: Florent Viale

Backgrounder:

While, some consider the Northern Rhone just a gateway to the south, lovers of French wines know that some of France’s finest wines are grown and produced in this region. Specifically, Hermitage AOC (and the Cote Rotie as well), known for classic Syrah wines that rival the best Cru Classes wines of Bordeaux. While the appellation allows for up to 15% of Marsanne and Roussane to be added the best wines from this AOC are 100% Syrah and balance power and weight with finesse and elegance.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple with an almost black nearly opaque inky core. When held up to the light, garnet and ruby highlights glisten and the edges fade ever so slightly to garnet. Slow clusters of fat legs cling the edge of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Fragrant and well developed with ripe berries including blueberry, dusty red raspberry and blackberry that is layered over complex notes of earth, herbal fennel and floral violet hints.

Feel – Full-bodied, weighty and almost chewy in texture, this full-bodied with has firm but silky tannins and balanced medium acidity round with a touch of minerality that lingers through to the finish.

Taste – Rich and deeply concentrated flavors of blueberry, plum, and other red and black fruits are well integrated with a touch of exotic spice and the region’s trademark white pepper kick. Herbal fennel, smoke, floral violets and toasted oak round out the complex flavor profile of this lovely wine.

Finish – Weighty in the finish with fruit flavors that include plum, blueberry and black-fruit with lingering minerality, herbal notes and spice that goes on and on.

Conclusion – The 2004 Domaine du Columbier Hermitage is a delicious wine that truly represents the region’s tradition for exceptional wine. 100% Syrah, this wine has bold and rich fruit, but being classic old-world in its style and production, shows tremendous finesse and elegance. Perfect for anything you through on the grill or snuggling up in front of the bonfire on the beach, this wine will not disappoint.

Mission Report:

For those who know me, Summer time is a favorite season, not only because I enjoy barbecuing and the beach, but each summer one of the greatest sporting events occurs in the greatest of all stadiums. The Tour de France is that specular event with the stadium being the entire country of France.

Spanning 3500km and three weeks its a site to see and lovers of wine will immediately recognize the various regions traversed by those exceptional athletes. This year’s tour starts on the 4th of July in Monaco.

Just a few days ago I was talking with other enthusiasts of both the tour and wine and we pulled out a map to see what villages were included in this years race. And what better to do with good friends, sharing travel stories and pondering future trips? Well, opening up a classic French wine of course!

We wanted something a little different. Not that we were burnt out on Burgundy or Bordeaux, but to often those wines are enjoyed to the detriment of other great wines. So reaching back into the far corner of my cellar I retrieved today’s selection from Domaine du Columbier.

We sipped and enjoyed the wine, reminiscing about past races and journeys with great excitement for this years race.

A votre sante!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Hermitage AOC can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Highlands Winery Howell Mountain Cabernet Savignon

Mission Codename: From on High

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure an exceptional selection from Highlands Winery

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Highlands Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Dave Cofran

Backgrounder:

Napa County’s Howell Mountain AVA, established in 1984 is known for its wines of deep concentration and intensity. The higher elevation and relatively flat aspect make the location great for vineyards, and specifically Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vines in the Howell Mountain area were planted in the 1880s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby red, this wine maintains its color concentration right out to the edge of the glass. At its heart, the wine has a deeper core of dark black cherry. When you swirl this wine, it shows off a softly springy surface. When it settles, it leaves behind tightly packed clusters of chubby legs that take forever to emerge before they crawl slowly down the glass

Smell – Bold intensity with a big initial rush of bright red fruit of raspberry, cranberry, red currant and cherry. These are soon followed by blackberry, bramble, tomato stem, oak and soft spices

Feel – Solid, rich and almost rustic in character, this full-bodied wine has great firm tannins and a well balanced acidity. Well structured, but not overpowering, as this wine opens up and breathes, it softens and a more subdued character is revealed

Taste -This wine begins dusky, dark and rich with juicy flavors of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry, with smoky raspberry and soft cola. As the wine opens up it softens and reveals flavors of tart plum and soft spice

Finish – Starts dusky and dark, then sweet. these are followed soon after by softly spicy and smoky-tart flavors that linger for a long time

Conclusion – A dusky, deep and delicious wine that delivers a classic Napa Cab experience. A really impressive wine, we appreciate it for its depth, dusky-delicious flavors, medium-weight feel and brightly lush aromatics. After some time decanted, the feel of the wine softens and additional flavors reveal themselves, making an extended tasting of the wine fun and fulfilling experience. Balanced, rich, food-friendly and elegant, this is a great solo-drinker or the perfect companion to a hearty meal

Mission Report:

For today’s wine, Agent Red had the good fortune to spend a few minutes with Highlands’ winemaker, Dave Cofran. The transcript follows:

AGENT RED: Greetings, Dave. We are thrilled to be showing your Howell Mountain Cab today. The wine is really wonderful. Thanks so much for allowing us to show your wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

DAVE COFRAN: We are very excited to be able to offer our 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon to your operatives.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

DAVE: My father had a wine shop and I became interested in wine early.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

DAVE: University of California at Davis was a very eye opening experience about the possibilities and complexities of winemaking. My studies blended the technical aspects of chemistry with the art of winemaking.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

DAVE: We want to make modestly extracted, easy drinking food friendly wines from the finest Napa Valley mountain grapes. We restrict our winemaking to Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Through my years at Silver Oak I learned to appreciate the value of focus on a few varieties and perfecting the techniques necessary to produce superior products.

RED: Please tell me, what makes Howell Mountain fruit so special?

DAVE: Howell Mountain appellation is well above the fog that covers the Napa Valley most mornings during the summer. Temperatures are generally cooler in the evening , causing longer “hang times” and more intense flavors. Volcanic soils are well drained and in combination with the steep slopes, cause vine stress ,low yields and extremely flavorful grapes. These grapes give us endless possibilities to let the fruit come forward in our wines.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

DAVE: Joe Heitz had a tremendous influence on my early winemaking. His Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet was a benchmark which provided a lofty goal for me.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

DAVE: Over 40 years as winegrower.

RED: And, for whom do you make wine?

DAVE: We make wine to be a fine accompaniment to rich and flavorful foods.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

DAVE: You must have a passion for fine wine joined with proper technical training.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

DAVE: Supervising production with our new consulting winemaker, Jeff Fontanella, and assisting in the sales and marketing of our wines.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

DAVE: This 100 Cabernet Sauvignon is a combination of wines from two distinctive vineyards atop Howell Mountain. Although they are similar soil types, trellising methods are very different. However both provide good light exposure for the fruit.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

DAVE: My favorite pairing is with barbecued dark meat which smooths out the modest tannins present in the wine.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

DAVE: Any Highlands red wine!

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

DAVE: With Gusto and enthusiasm for the intense fruit flavors.

RED: Agreed! If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

DAVE: Cabernet Sauvignon

RED: A simple answer. I like it! Thank you so much for your time. Keep up the great work, we became fast fans of your wine and we look forward to your next releases. We are big fans!

DAVE: Thank you for your support. We hope your operatives enjoy this wine as much as we have enjoyed making it.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Howell Mountain can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Cass Winery Paso Robles Syrah

Mission Codename: Pass the Cass

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit Cass Winery in Paso Robles to taste their Syrah.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cass Winery

Wine Subject: 2003 Paso Robles Syrah

Winemaker: Dan Kleck & Lood Kotze

Backgrounder:

While Pinot Noir is considered the most influenced by the specific clone, Syrah is not far behind. ENTAV, or L’Etablissement National Technique pour l’Amélioration de la Viticulture, founded in 1962 is the French agency responsible for identifying, preserving and cataloging the various grape varieties with the purpose of commercializing only the best of those varietals. By using Syrah clones identified by ENTAV this wine truly crosses the divide between old-world and new-world style.

Paso Robles, located in California’s southern central coast region in San Luis Obisbo county is well known as one of the earliest regions where vines were grown in California with records indicating grapes have been harvested since the 1790s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple with an almost black inky core. Along the edges the deep color only lightens slightly to become garnet along the very edge of the glass. When swirled, garnet reflections fade to blackness and two distinct layers of legs ring the side of the glass. The lower cluster with narrowly spaced fat legs and the upper with widely spaced fat legs.

Smell – Bold and redolent with ripe and earthy red and black berries including cherry and blackberry. Well developed and distinctive earthy notes of mushroom, soft floral and herbal sage components and white pepper are revealed.

Feel – Rich, plush and full-bodied, this wine starts with a spicy kick of white pepper that softens as it opens. Firm, but fine tannins and balanced acidity carry this smooth textured wine’s rich and concentrated flavors through to the finish.

Taste – Concentrated and bold flavors of fresh, ripe and earthy dark fruit backed by a spicy white pepper kick. Complex notes of toasted oak, leather, tobacco and briary underbrush are revealed as you explore this wine’s lovely flavors.

Finish – The wine finishes long and persistent marked with focused flavors of ripe dark fruit, earth and lingering white pepper spice.

Conclusion – While many of the wine’s from Paso Robles tend to be overly extracted, we are never disappointed with the quality of what we have tasted from Cass Winery. The 2003 Paso Robles Syrah is rich, bold and powerful, but also shows elegance in its complexity that is interlaced with ripe flavorful and juicy fruit.

Mission Report:

Agent Red was able to sit down with Cass Winery’s winemaker, Lood Kotze, for a short interview when we last featured a great Cass wine. Here is a transcript of that conversation:

AGENT RED: Hi Lood!

LOOD KOTZE: Agent Red. Thanks for coming by.

RED: Is it always this hot here in Paso Robles?

LOOD: Not quite always, but, yes, it gets hot here.

RED: What effect does that have on the grapes – and the wines that are made from them?

LOOD: It’s hard to generalize about Paso Robles, but I would say that the wines from here are deeper and more concentrated. They are very rich, intense and strongly flavored. People love Paso wines for their accessibility. I think that wines from here are more universally appealing.

RED: Tell me, Lood, who do you make wines for?

LOOD: I tend to make wines that I personally like to drink. Luckily, that happens to match up with what fans of our wines also like!

RED: Good thing. I think that left to their own devices, some winemakers would end up making wines that only they like! Tell me, what would you say is your winemaking style?

LOOD: Well, I really believe that the terroir give the quality of a wine and the winemaker just maintains the quality. Great wine really begins in great vineyards. Starting with the best fruit, I tend to allow the wine to do its own thing with minimal input.

RED: Do you ever have to tweak a wine at all?

LOOD: Of course, but always in the most subtle ways possible. Really, the vineyard does most of the work, I just take care of the wine throughout the process.

RED: Before I let you go, please tell me what’s going on in the winery right now.

LOOD: Well, the vineyards are looking great, with shoots that are more than a foot long! In the winery, we just finished up with one round of bottling – and so now my focus is on our 2008’s.

RED: And, before you know it, harvest will be here!

LOOD: Don’t say that! We still have the summer and into the fall… but, yeah, before you know it, harvest will be here.

RED: Listen, I love Cass wines. The Rockin’ One is honestly the best Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre blend I have ever tasted.

LOOD: It is a great wine. Most blends of this style are usually reductive and austere. The Rockin’ One is way expressive and very delicious.

RED: It rocks!

LOOD: Indeed!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Cass Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Sawyer Cellars Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Red Barchetta

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a balanced and delicious Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for our exacting Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Sawyer Cellars

Wine Subject: 2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Brad Warner

Backgrounder:

Napa Cabernet Sauvignon continues to dominate as the leader in California red wine. For good reason, too, as Napa produces some of the richest and most delicious examples on the planet.

The Rutherford AVA is among the most famous names in the valley and is primarily know for its exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful dark garnet with a clear but darker ruby heart. The wine has a tightly springy surface that settles very quickly after swirling, leaving behind medium-width legs that move very slowly down the glass

Smell – A lush, warm and dusky rush of deep aromatic red fruits and dark berries, showing off dark blueberry, rich blackberry, red cherry and just-picked raspberry, with additional layers of dark mocha, leather and spice

Feel – Medium-bodied, yet soft and round at front of the palate – then mouth-coating and slightly drying with lush tannins that fade slowly to reveal more flavors

Taste – Deliciously juicy and flavorful, with brightly layered blackberry, smoky blueberry cobbler, black currant and cherry, followed by chocolate dust and soft spice

Finish – A long, rich and dusky finish that tails off slowly. The wine goes from tart to sweet and back again as it fades smoothly and reveals new flavors

Conclusion – This is a very exciting and very delicious Cab that represents the finest qualities of Napa Cab – without exerting too much muscle. What we find in this wine is balance and delightfully fun flavors; The wine just tastes great! With juicy, real-fruit flavors that have you experimenting with small sips and larger gulps and a dusky and complex nose that has you inhaling the wine over and over again, this is an experiential wine that is also just fun to drink. With balanced acidity, this is a great food wine as well. This wine gets my heartiest recommendation.

Mission Report:

For today’s wine, Agent Red was sent to interview Brad Warner, winemaker for Sawyer Cellars. Please enjoy:

AGENT RED: Greetings, Brad. We are thrilled to be showing your great Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is truly superb. Thanks so much for the wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BRAD WARNER: My pleasure, Agent Red. Thanks for featuring our Cab today. I trust that your Operatives will love it.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BRAD: In the late 1960’s I worked at Charles Krug Winery and met Robert Mondavi and became fascinated with the are of wine making.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

BRAD: Robert Mondavi Winery but traveled to Europe and learned from the experience. Also, learned a lot from the joint venture RMW/Rothschild.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

BRAD: Quality in the vineyard. I like to make wine from our estate vineyard w/o the over influence of tannin or oak so wine can show its true varietal character. I like to make wines as natural as possible.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BRAD: Robert Mondavi and Tim Mondavi

RED: How long have you been making wine?

BRAD: At Sawyer since 1995 and have been in the wine business since 1967.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

BRAD: I make wines to compliment fine cuisine and our consumers.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa Valley so special?

BRAD: Consistent climate and the soil

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

BRAD: Being a Winemaker is a lifestyle. It is something with you 24/7 and becomes a passion. I always tell a person with interest to work a harvest season or two before they decide.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BRAD: Preparing for the bottling of our 2007 wines and last racking of our 2008 reds before harvest.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

BRAD: The 2005 Estate Cabernet is full-bodied with balanced tannins and expressive.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BRAD: Fish or red meats.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

BRAD: I enjoy backpacking and street rods, of which I have a few.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

BRAD: Usually a Sauv Blanc, Chardonnay or Cab.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

BRAD: One should trust their palate, enjoy the wine that fits you regardless of the price.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

BRAD: A well-made Cab.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

BRAD: If you won the lotto and all of the sudden had more money than you could spend would you stop making wine, retire or change professions? I would continue as a Winemaker, as I mentioned before it is a lifestyle which I choose to live.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

BRAD: Thank you, Agent Red. Give my regards to your wine-loving Operatives!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Sawyer Cellars, in Rutherford (Napa Valley), California, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Cosentino Winery ‘The Merlot’

Mission Codename: The Man

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Wine Spies Operatives love a great Merlot, but they also love a great wine at a great price. Send Agent Red to (re)infiltrate Cosentino Winery to investigate and retrieve their great The Merlot – with a great QPR

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cosentino Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 The Merlot – Napa County

Winemaker: Mitch Cosentino

Winery Backgrounder: We had our sights squarely set on the Cosentino Winery since before we officially founded The Wine Spies organization. Agent Red’s very favorite wine was made by Mitch Cosentino, but the winery proved elusive. It too a long time to infiltrate the winery, but Agent Red’s perseverance paid off. Today, he brings you an outstanding Merlotmade by Mitch himself. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Varietal Backgrounder: To true wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, outpacing all other varietals. Merlot is sincere, food-fabulous wine for serious wine drinkers. If you think that Merlot is not for you, forget everything that you think you know about Merlot and embrace this great example.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet with a darkened but still clear core. Showing garnet highlights that extend through to the edges, this wine appears bouncy when swirled. When it settles, it leaves behind two levels of chubby legs that take a while to emerge before the slowly crawl down the glass

Smell – Bold but not overpowering with a mix of black-fruit jam, exotic spice, licorice and sweet cedar, layered atop complex aromas of earth, floral violet, dark river rock and a hint of subtle eucalyptus

Feel – This wine starts soft and has a slightly dry and somewhat firm attack. The fine grain of the tannins linger through to the back of the mouth as hints of spice and dark minerals hit both the tip of the tongue and the back of the palate Balanced acidity is framed by the minerality of the wine.

Taste – This bright wine leads with tart black cherry, blackberry, smoky plum and a touch of strawberry – and then shows exotic spices and black pepper. These are followed by oak, coffee bean and minerals

Finish – Medium-long in length with lingering flavors of smoky berry, black cherry and plum. These are reinforced by a slight earthiness, spice and soft oak

Conclusion – A great Merlot, this offering by Mitch Cosentino delivers delicious Napa Valley fruit in an affordably-priced package that is hard to resist. Mitch Cosentino has been making Merlot since 1980, and his experience shines through in this wine. With balanced acidity and great flavors, this deeply aromatic wine is a pleasure to inhale and to roll around the mouth as you discern all of its fun and tasty characteristics. If you are a fan of Merlot, this offering is certain to please the palate – and the wallet. We paired a bottle with a down to earth meal of beans, polenta and Italian sausage. The wine paired beautifully, acting as a compliment to the meal, rather than a competitor as some Merlot may tend to do. Our hearty kudos to our friend Mitch Cosentino, for knocking another one out of the park with today’s special value!

Mission Report:

Cosentino Winery has two important distinctions; First, my favorite wine of all time was made by Mitch Cosentino, head of winemaking for the winery. Second, the Cosentino Winery was the most elusive and difficult to bring into the Wine Spies fold.

I first fell in love with Cosentino wines while on a (very rare for me) vacation. Agent Sparkle and I had just wrapped up a mission in Central America and, with a few days left before we were due to report back in, we decided to head to Costa Rica.

Once checked in to our hotel, Hotel Casa Marella, we decided to go for a swim in the infinity pool. The pool, which overlooked the Pacific Ocean, offered a spectacular view of the ocean and the town below. I was in heaven.

Heaven got even better when Agent Sparkle arrived, a bottle of wine in hand, and a giant smile on her face. It was twilight, so I could not make out the label. She opened the bottle, poured and handed me a glass. I took it eagerly.

On inhaling the wine, I knew that it was not a Chilean wine (the most common wine found in Costa Rica). I also knew that it was an exceptional wine, maybe even a California wine. One sip, and the heaven I was in got even better.

“What’s this,” I asked.

“This? Oh, its just that bottle of Cosentino we’ve been saving”

I was shocked, but very pleasantly surprised. How had she managed to smuggle this bottle along on this trip? Had she sent it ahead? That did not make sense, as this part of our trip was improvised.

Rather than press her for details, I simply enjoyed the wine. Drinking wine in a swimming pool overlooking the ocean is a wonderful thing to do. Add a Cosentino wine and the wonderful becomes far more so!

Getting back to how difficult it was to infiltrate Cosentio, I will say that it the delay may have just come down to poor spy-craft. I was just knocking on the wrong doors at the winery. For nearly two years.

So, dear Operative, this mission report is really my Mea Culpa. I did a bad job and it took me way too long to bring you a Cosentino wine. This mission is also my way of making it up to you! Today’s Zinfandel, made by master winemaker, Mitch Cosentino, is a great wine at a remarkable price.

The winery loves what we Wine Spies are up to and they allowed us special access to their wine archives. We pulled out today’s wine for you as the first of what we expect to be a handful of additional Cosentio wines that we’ll bring you this year.

A special thanks to Agent S2 (our new inside man at the winery) and to Mitch Cosentino for hosting us at our private tasting recently. It was great fun to hang out with you both – and to listen to Mitch tell us everything about wine, growing and winemaking. We learned a ton and we loved drinking through your wines with you!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Cosentino Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2001 Peterson Winery Bradford Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Don’t Manipulate Me

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a delicious Cabernet from our friends at Dry Creek’s Peterson Winery

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2001 Bradford Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder:

Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. While The Wine Spies have been trying to keep from acquiring too many wines from the region when the wines are great, why not? Today’s selection is from the Bradford Mountain Vineyard which is located ont he western edge of DCV and its higher elevation and unique soil composition most influencing the grapes grown there. This wine is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petite Verdot.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple and almost inky in its blackish core that is highlighted by garnet and ruby reflexes when held to the light. Ruby with slight orange/brick hues along the edges and when swirled, slow widely spaced chubby legs descend at varying speeds down the side of the glass.

Smell – Medium bold in intensity, with earthy and smokey ripe and juicy dark black berry fruit and a touch of ripe plum are layered over classic green bell pepper, licorice, toasted vanilla oak and a hint of black pepper.

Feel – Rich and smooth in its attack, this dry, full-bodied wine has finely etched and ever so slightly grippy tannins, balanced acidity, good minerality, and a hint of spice that carries this wine’s classic Cab flavors through to the finish.

Taste – Bold but well balanced flavors of smokey and earthy dark black fruit, dense blackberry and ripe plum over a complex blend of herbal licorice, exotic spice, toasted oak, fresh cut earthy cedar and vanilla hints.

Finish – Clean and lingering dark fruit supported by this wines solid but smooth structure invite sip after sip.

Conclusion – The 2001 Peterson Winery Bradford Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a delicious example of why The Wine Spies love Dry Creek Valley so much. Rich and balanced, with classic and complex Cabernet aromas and flavors, a smooth but solid structure, this wine stands up with out overpowering you. Decant this wine or give it at least 30 minutes to fully reveal its depth and character. The 2001 vintage in Sonoma was rated very well and this wine is just starting to show its full potential.

Mission Report:

Learn how Agent Red first became aware of Peterson Winery, which is now a Wine Spies favorite in the Dry Creek Valley – in this mission recap:

Today’s wine was one of those happened upon discoveries. You know, the sort that you find almost by accident.

I was making a pickup at one of my dead-drops in the Dry Creek Valley. A local asset had left me samples to consider for a future mission. When I got to the spot, I found a small parcel, obviously not large enough to contain wine. I grabbed it and walked toward my car, all the while making certain that I was not being followed.

On opening the parcel, I found a hand-written note inside:

This location compromised. Proceed to [REDACTED] for the package.

I entered the coordinates into my GPS and made my way to the new drop. On arrival, I scanned the area. Not a person in sight. I proceeded on foot and retrieved the package. It was then that I noticed what appeared to be a a winery across the valley.

Sample bottles safely stowed, I decided to investigate.

“Peterson Winery” read the sign on the building. My pulse quickened. Peterson was a name that had come up a few times recently. I had meant to place them under proper surveillance, but had not had the time to schedule a mission. I got out of the car for a closer look.

I scanned the area, making note of all point of ingress and egress. A good spy should be able to make a quick getaway if needed.

“Are you here to taste some wines today?”

I spun around to see a young man, perhaps in his 20’s. I played along.

“Sure,” I said.

And so the tasting began. We tasted through the range of the wines, and when we got to the fabulous Shinbone, I made the decision – right then and there – to reveal myself and procure the wine for our Operatives.

“Listen,” I said. “I can get this on the calendar next week. Can you move that fast?”

The young man, who turned out to be Jamie Peterson, the winemaker and son of founder/owner Fred Peterson, quickly agreed to allow us access to the wine.

I left with samples, and flash forward two days to the present… Viola! This excellent and very exciting wine is available to you today, dear Operative. If you love big, expressive, juicy, delicious and robust wines, this one is certain to please.

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Schug Carneros Estate Carneros Chardonnay

 

Mission Codename: Pour some Schug on me

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit our friends at Schug Carneros and acquire thier latest Chardonnay

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Schug Carneros Estate

Wine Subject: 2007 Carneros Chardonnay

Winemaker: Walter Schug and Michael Cox

Backgrounder:

Carneros Chardonnay is revered for its quality, elegance and smoothness. The Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley, has been a great source of wine that we have featured here. Always, those wine have been of supreme quality. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Chardonnay and Chardonnay literally thrives there. Schug Carneros Chardonnay is truly representative of the region and is fast becoming a Wine Spies operative favorite.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Brilliant straw yellow with light golden reflexes. When swirled, this wines shows a slightly viscous character and fast thin legs appear almost instantly along the edge of the glass.

Smell – Medium in intensity, this wine shows its true Carneros nature with effortlessly balanced tropical fruit, Anjou pear and citrus with just the right amount of sweet exotic spice, minerality and a touch of toasted oak.

Feel – Smooth, dry and crisp, but with a slightly round weighty texture. The ’sur lie’ creaminess versus the cool climate acidity add to the complex and pleasing structure of this wine.

Taste – Juicy and bright tropical and citrus fruit and the ever so slight touch of creamy butter and toasted oak balance the crisp fruit acidity, smokey minerality and baking spice that lingers through to the finish.

Finish – Clean and of medium length with lingering bright ripe fruit and spice are supported by this wines round and slightly creamy texture.

Conclusion – The 2007 Schug Carneros Chardonnay was a hands down favorite at our tasting of similar wines. If you had to pick one word to describe this wine it would be balance. Balance in its bright and creamy flavors and texture, balance in its spice and soft texture, balance in its elegant initial attack and its lingering finish. Reminiscent of the fine Chardonnay we tasted in Burgundy. We enjoyed this wine with grilled artichoke and herb crusted southern style rotisserie chicken.

Mission Report:

The following is Agent Red’s recent interview with Michael Wilcox, winemaker for Schug Carneros Estate:

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. We are thrilled to be showing your great Carneros Chardonnay. The wine is really wonderful. Thanks so much for the wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MICHAEL: Thanks Red, glad you are liking the wine. It really has come into it’s own of late. I appreciate you having us.

RED: The pleasure is all ours, I assure you. How long have you been making wine?

MICHAEL: My first job in a wine cellar was when I was 19. I got a summer job working at Hacienda Wine Cellars (pre Bronco – then family owned by the Cooleys).

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MICHAEL: Not sure if it is specific, but that summer of 1987, working on the bottling line, cleaning barrels, driving all over Sonoma County sampling vineyards, long wide ranging conversations on music and farming with the winemaker, Eric Laumann all combined to sell me on the idea that growing and making wine would afford me the ability to continue to live in Sonoma Valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. Tough one. I spent my formative years from 1987 -1991 at Hacienda, a year at Dry Creek Vineyards, got my first‘Winemaker’ job at Napa Cellars/DeMoor, and have spent coming on 14 years here at Schug with Walter.
IÂ’d probably have to say my time at Napa Cellars. I was 25 and they gave me the keys and said ‘drive’. I learned to get things done, not to waste time or money, and how to pull together a wine from vineyard to bottle. For all the talk of art, it is also a big logistics game.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MICHAEL: I’ll happily steal from Robert Mondavi here: ‘The first glass of wine should invite the second.’ I don’t like flabby, heavy, ponderous wines. I want brightness and zip. Elegance is foremost.

RED: Walter Schug is a legend in the wine business. How has he influenced you?

MICHAEL: Walter has been, and continues to be a mentor. I am very fortunate that Walter saw in me someone with the kernel of his own winemaking style that he could nurture and develop. He is a font of knowledge that I can tap into at any time. With just about any situation he’s seen it in his own experience here, at Gallo, or as consultant, at least twice.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MICHAEL: We already talked about Walter being a mentor, but Eric Laumann, who gave me my first job was also very important. He certainly instilled a confidence in myself and the wines that make. He also is a reminder to not
take yourself too seriously, just the wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MICHAEL: Myself foremost. Plan D is always to just drink it all ourselves, so it better be good.

RED: That would be a fun way to go. Tell me, what makes the Carneros so special?

MICHAEL: Carneros is a unique blend of wind, fog, temperature and climate. We pick up 7-10 days at the beginning of the season, since we are a bit warmer because of the bay. The wind and fog of the summer means that our growing season is stretched out by another 7-10 days. We might see an extra 3 weeks of the elusive ‘hang time’ in a normal growing season – without pushing the boundaries of ripeness and alcohol.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MICHAEL: Trust yourself and your palette. Don’t chase a style or someone else’s opinion. Be ready to work and get down and dirty. Don’t expect a lot other than the reward of the wine itself.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MICHAEL: We are gearing up for the bottling season, so we are trying to finalize our blends. I am tasting through all the barrels in the cellar and generally laying the groundwork for what should be a good season.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MICHAEL: Our Carneros Chardonnay is mostly barrel fermented and aged sur lie in approximately 20% new French Oak. It comes from a range of vineyards in the immediate vicinity of the Estate. That gives us a range of clones to work with when it comes time to assemble the blend. In addition, a small portion never sees wood and is raised in stainless steel. This affords us the ability to blend in wine that exhibits pure chardonnay fruit exuberance and brings freshness and vivacity to the wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MICHAEL: Well, as always, it would be something that Kristine Schug has whipped up (she treats us well during the harvest). A roast chicken with meyer lemon sauce. Acidity in both the wine and the food is so important to making a good match.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MICHAEL: Considering how much I enjoyed my time at NASCAR today, I may well be a closet redneck.

RED: Nice. What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MICHAEL: Well until recently it had been Laurenz V.’s Gruener Veltliner, either the Singing or the Charming, but I have been drinking a lot of our dry Rose of Pinot Noir of late.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MICHAEL: Well wine is for sharing with friends so have some people you like around and start opening bottles. Schug wines always get better of the course of a meal as the layers start to unveil themselves. Don’t rush into it. Relax and enjoy.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MICHAEL: The Holy Trinity from E. Guigal – La Turque, La Mouline, La Landonne. Odd for a Pinot maker, but I could drink those all night.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. How about: ‘If you couldn’t make wine, what would you do?’ And to be honest, I am not sure of the answer… I always say that my retirement plan is to move to Hawaii (Kauai – westside) and make rum, but that’s a bit close to winemaking… So perhaps a historian and author. 18th and 19th century European to be a bit more precise.

RED: Very cool. Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MICHAEL: No problem. Thanks again for having me. I hope I covered what you wanted to know. Glad you like the wine, I hope your Operatives do, too.

And here is a recap of Agent Red’s original interview with Walter Schug:

I had the incredible great fortune to meet with one of the wine industry’s most respected and renowned wine craftsmen in California wine history.

Walter Schug, owner and winemaster at Schug Carneros Estate, was born into wine in Germany in 1936, where his father was winemaker for one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir Producers.

As a young manm Walter worked throughout Europe, honing his craft. In 1966 Julio Gallo asked Walter to oversee all grapegrowing and quality control for the company. Seven years later, after Walter’s reputation had grown, Joseph Phelps asked Walter to become Phelps’ winemaker at his new Napa Valley winery.

Walter helped to create the Insignia label and some of the finest and most sought after Bordeaux-style blends in the country. Walter crafted wines that set the high water mark for excellence in winemaking.

To this day, Walter Schug’s early influence on the industry lives on, with wineries across California and around the world emulating his winemaking style.

With Phelps, Walter Schug’s goal was to make the best Bordeaux-style blend possible. Today, Walter Schug’s philosophy remains largely unchanged. There is one big difference, however; Where a bottle of Insignia may cost you $200 or more, a Schug wine of comparable quality with cost you less than $60.

On arriving at the Schug winery last week, I am greeted by Axel Schug, Director of Marketing for the winery and the son of Walter Schug. Axel, with whom I had met previously, introduces me to his father, and then escorts me through the bowels of the winery, to a tasting room buried in a wine cave. The long table the stretches down the tunnel is surrounded on both sides by seemingly every vintage from Schug’s history.

As I am escorted to my seat, I notice several magnums of Insignia wine and I spot one bottle in a special wooden display. Walter Schug sees me looking at it and he takes it from the display and shows it to me. The bottle is from Joseph Phelps himself, and a touching tribute to Walter Schug, from Phelps, is engraved on the back.

What follows is a partial transcript of our conversation:

AGENT RED: Mr. Schug, thank you so much for making yourself available today. It is an honor to meet you!

WALTER SCHUG: Welcome, Agent Red.

AGENT RED: Let me first say that your wines blow me away. The winery is beautiful as well. I love Carneros and wines from the region. You are really a pioneer of the region. When it came time to build your own winery, how did you come to settle here?

WALTER SCHUG: When I was with Gallo, I sourced fruit from Carneros. I recognized the region as having great potential for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Given my passion for Pinot, settling in Carneros was a natural.

AGENT RED: And, when you did settle, you produced a fair amount of Chardonnay, did you not?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, and it was excellent, too. It still is. Back then, Chardonnay subsidized my passion for Pinot Noir! It allowed me to perfect Pinot here.

AGENT RED: This Cabernet Sauvignon we are drinking [today’s 2003 Heritage CS] is incredible. How has your philosophy changed from your Insignia days?

WALTER SCHUG: Very little. The goal now, as it was with Phelps back then, is to create the very best wine that we possibly can. And, to do so without recipe or formula.

AGENT RED: Ahh. Whereas I have heard that Insignia is more formulaic in its approach to winemaking today. Instead, your proportions or even fruit sources may change a good deal – if it means making wines that are that much better. Am I correct?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, this is true. This Cabernet is streamlined and far more European in character. This is a wine that has elegance, delicacy, finesse – this is what I strive for in all of my wines!

AGENT RED: Again, this is a great wine and I am sure that our Operatives will love it. I also look forward to bringing them your Pinot Noir, during a future mission.

WALTER SCHUG: If they appreciate wines that are made for the best enjoyment, they will love this wine. In the end this wine is not made by going to the vineyard and knowing what you are going to get. Rather, it is the result of meticulous blending of wines made from the best fruit. Again, it is my mission to create wines that are the best expressions of place. It is my mission to make wines that are to be enjoyed.

AGENT RED: Mission accomplished, Mr. Schug, Mission accomplished!

WALTER SCHUG: Thank you, Agent Red.

We talked a great deal about Walter Schug’s history and his influence and impact on the wine industry. While I was certainly impressed by his incredible history, I must say that what impressed me the most – what seemed to matter to me the most – was what the Schug Carneros Estate winery was doing today. Today, Schug is crafting remarkably beautiful wines that are a true delight to drink and enjoy!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Schug Carneros Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Jean-Claude Boisset Gevrey-Chambertin

Mission Codename: Cruising N74

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a Delicious 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Burgundy

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Jean-Claude Boisset

Wine Subject: 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin AOC

Winemaker: Gregory Patriat

Backgrounder:

Perhaps as much as any other village in Burgundy, the name Gevrey-Chambertin inspires thirsty dreams of Grand Cru perfection, but even the regular village AOC wines are exceptional. Located just a few miles south of Dijon along the famed N74 Route de Grand Vin, Gevrey-Chambertin wines are rich, full and known for their silky texture. 2005 was one of the best vintages in recent history so if you are a fan of the great wines of Burgundy, then be sure to pick up a few bottles of today’s delicious selection.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Garnet and ruby red with a clear core and orange-brickish reflections. Ruby red along the edges with clusters of slow fat legs also show reflexes of the wine’s deep color.

Smell – Medium in intensity with a well developed bouquet of ripe black-cherry, exotic spice and earthy notes. Hints of floral violets and a touch of smokey toasted oak round out the nose.

Feel – Medium-bodied, rich and dry with bright acidity and firm tightly etched but fine tannins that support the flavor and body of this wine through to the finish. As this wine begins to breathe the acid and tannins soften considerably becoming silky in character.

Taste – Both tart and juicy ripe black-cherry fruit and earthy components are pleasantly layered over complex spice, classic Burgundian minerality, smoky-toasted oak and a slight hint of herbal horseradish and floral violets.

Finish – Clean and lingering with the wines tangy acid and finely etch tannins carrying its classic Burgundian Pinot Noir flavors through to the finish.

Conclusion – Today’s selection from Jean-Claude Boisset is an exceptional example of why the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin is one of the best loved and the wines of Burgundy are still among the finest expressions of Pinot Noir’s true potential. Perfectly balanced fruit, spice, earth, smoke and oak in the nose and on the palate, well structured and rich but not overpowering, quite simply lots of finesse and elegance at a fantastic price.

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of Agent White’s and Blush’s recent visit to Burgundy.

… December 2008 – East Central France …

We began the day early as we wanted to hit the Route des Grand Crus with lots of time to enjoy the food and especially the wine. Zipping through the back roads from our safe house in Bar Sur Aube(south end of the Champagne region) to Dijon at this hour was fast but just outside of Dijon, we started to hit the normal business day traffic. Thankfully, the GPS devise in my handheld spy communicator quickly re-routed us around and soon we were headed south through some of the finest vineyards in all of Burgundy.

The N74, or Route de Dijon as its known officially but wine aficionados know this as the Route de Grand Crus. We slowed down and started taking it all in. The names of each commune and village familiar to anyone who has spent time in the French section of a good wine shop. The vineyards, this time of year, bare, with a slight fog resting in the lower valleys, and along the tops of the hills to the west. A slight drizzle fell creating an almost surreal experience as the fog and low clouds moved with the weather exposing and then rehiding these prized vineyards.

After our lunch in Beaune, Agent Blush and I had the chance to explore some of the smaller communes that overlooked the valley and in particular, the historic Gevrey-Chambertin with is many Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. Gevrey-Chambertin is located just a few miles south of Dijon. The wines from here are truly representative of the finesse and elegance that Burgundy is known for.

Quite simply, this is the life. While you may not have been able to join us on the Holiday in Beaune, today’s selection from Jean-Claude Boisset will at least give you a small bit of the flavor of the trip!

A votre sante!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Gevrey-Chambertin along N74 can be seen in this satellite photo.