2004 Az. Agr. Mario Giribaldi Barbera d’Alba ‘Vigne Gerbole’
Mission Codename: Tre Generazioni di Tradizione
Operative: Agent White
Objective: Acquire a traditional Italian Barbera from the Piedmont
Mission Status: Accomplished!
Current Winery: Azienda Agricola Mario Giribaldi
Wine Subject: 2004 Barbera d’Alba ‘Vigne Gerbole’ DOC
Winemaker: Mario Giribaldi
Backgrounder:
Barbera, the third most planted varietal (after Sangiovese and Montepulciano) in Italy finds its most classic expression in the Piedmont and specifically in Asti and Alba. The finest Barbera is grown in specific single vineyard crus surrounding those communes. Italian Barbera comes in two basic forms, the tradizione, a more rustic old-world style and newer more fruit forward styles similar to the Barbera that is grown in California. Sadly, Barbera is often passed up as a lesser varietal but when done well, these wines show their classic Italian heritage and character.
Today’s selection from Azienda Agricola Mario Giribaldi is a single vineyard cru from Alba and is made in the traditional method.
Wine Spies Tasting Profile:
Look – Deep purple (almost magenta) with garnet and violet hues that glisten through its dark clear core. Along the edges, this wine fades from ruby to pick with a slight brickish tint. Slow thin legs appear discretely along the edge of the glass when this wine is swirled.
Smell – Medium in intensity, well developed and slight rustic in character with aromas of almost candied, but not too sweet, Italian black cherry layered over black licorice. Toasted oak with vanilla and other sweet woods and a touch of floral violet add to the fragrant nose of this wine.
Feel – The initial attack of this medium-bodied wine is dry with firm finely-etched tannins and bright acidity. A spicy kick hits mid palate and lingers through to the finish. As this wine opens, the tannins, acid and spice mellow dramatically.
Taste – Bold and complex with Italian black cherry as well as tart raspberry, black licorice and cayenne pepper, who’s presence is felt more than its tasted until it softens. A touch of vanilla toasted oak, bramble brush and berries and a hint of tobacco also emerge as you explore this wine.
Finish – Medium long in length with lingering spice and cherry that fades cleanly with notes of toasted oak, dark berries, and tobacco.
Conclusion – What we love most about Barbera, even the traditional-styled ones, is that there is a certain purity of fruit that is present in the wine. Straightforwardly delicious, rich and bold, juicy but not overly sweet; perhaps commonplace at local Italian restaurants, but hey when in Italy… Today’s selection from Mario Giribaldi is a welcome addition to your forays into Italian cooking or simply if you need a mental vacation to the Piedmont.
Mission Report:
The last time I saw Baco, she handed me a parcel at the Foligno train station parking lot as she speed off on her Vespa. I thought I heard her laughing, but couldn’t confirm my suspicions.
Only until I had opened the parcel she gave me and read her note, did I catch a glimpse of her passion for wine. Baco was a deep cover operative and was skating on the thin ice with a few of the wineries we had under surveillance.
HQ was deeply concerned that she had been compromised and after redacting the contents of her note, sent me back to check on her. It was a previously scheduled sojourn, but still, tension was high. We couldn’t figure out how Baco was finding such great wine values. Was she on the take? It didn’t matter to me, for the ends justified the means. As long as she kept producing great wines, I was happy. HQ on the other hand…
Arriving in Torino at spring time is a treat in itself, having Baco meet me at the station with some Torrone, my favorite nougat candy, is heaven. Still short on conversation and this time in a dumpy Fiat he headed south to the village Alba where we met Mario Giribaldo, the third generation of family winemaker and proprietor of the Azienda Agricola Mario Giribaldi. Tasting flights of their wine was, dare I say, sinful. The wines were all delicious. The tradizione styled single vineyard cru Dolcetto d’Alba and this Barbera d’Alba stood out. (look for the Dolcetto to be featured inthe future.)
Wine Spies Vineyard Check:
The location of the approximate location of Alba in Italy’s Piedmont can be seen in this satellite photo.
