2007 Grochau Cellars Cuvee Des Amis Pinot Noir
Mission Codename: A True Friend
Operative: Agent Red
Objective: Roam Oregon’s lush Willamette Valley in search of a Pinot Noir that delivers
Mission Status: Accomplished!
Current Winery: Grochau Cellarstate
Wine Subject: 2007 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir
Winemaker: John Grochau
Backgrounder:
The Oregon’s Willamette Valley, just south of Portland and along the Willamette River is well known for Pinot Noir and other Burgundian varietals. Its deep and fertile volcanic soil, cooler climate most directly effect viticulture. Most of the vineyards in this area are planted in the valley’s and hillsides along the river.
With a focus on Pinot Noir, Grochau Cellars has met its goal of crafting wines that are, first, a joy to drink. Proprietor and winemaker, John Grochau, believes in making without exerting too much influence over them. That is, without the aid of modern winemaking technology, John allows the wine to progress and evolve more naturally. As a result, John’s wines present fruit that sings out, offering a true expression of the unique terroir of the lush Willamette Valley. Today’s exceptional Crochau Pinot Noir is special treat that will thrill Pinot Noir fans of any regional preference. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below for the full scoop
Wine Spies Tasting Profile:
Look – With hues of a French Burgundy, and the clarity of a domestic Pinot Noir, this wine shows slightly purple to ruby in color, with concentrated color out to the pinkish edges of the wine. When swirled, this wine appears soft and springy. When it settles, it leaves behind tight clusters of skinny legs that take a very long time to emerge before they move slowly down the glass
Smell – Lush and deep with a delightful medium intensity and a balanced nose of red cherry, baking spices, blackberry and a hint of ripe raspberry. These are underpinned by a delicious earthiness with truffle, cut violets, fresh mulch and the slightest hint of oak
Feel – This soft, round and medium-bodied wine start off tart and tangy with a bright acidity, velvety tannins and a touch of minerality
Taste – Well integrated flavors of red-fruit of ripe red cherry, raspberry and tart cranberry with hints of soft spice, earthiness and subtle gunpowder , which is something I have smelled and really like in Pinot Noir!
Finish – Earthy and soft, with round fruits that linger long after you sip. The gunpowder flavor is more pronounced as the fruit flavors tails off, giving this wine a truly unique finish
Conclusion – This delicious wine is beautifully balanced in its flavors, aromatics and feel. The unique flavor of gunpowder, which is present on the palate and at the tail of the finish, is really my impression of what gunpowder might taste like, rather than direct experience. I enjoyed this wine directly on opening and then again several hours later. I usually expect a wine to soften and become more fully integrated after spending time exposed to the air like this, but this wine was equally delightful in both instances. The wine did become a little more soft and round on the palate, but the flavors and aromas maintained a remarkable consistency. If you have never tried an Oregon Pinot Noir, this is the one to try. It is certainly the best Oregon Pinot that I have had the pleasure to enjoy!
Mission Report:
I was able to catch up with John Grochau recently. What follows is an extract of our conversation:
AGENT RED: Hey, John! Thanks for taking some time to chat with me. Good bike ride today?
JOHN GROCHAU: Yes! I had to take advantage of the 80-degree day. We don’t get too many of them up here!
RED: I won’t keep you long, but I wanted to ask you a couple of questions. First off, though, I have to say that I love your flagship wine. Your 2007 Cuvee Des Amis Pinot is a gorgeous wine.
JOHN: Thanks, Red. Glad you like it. 2007 was a very interesting year for Pinot. It was a cooler year, which means that the flavors are not as extracted as, say, even 2006 was.
RED: And yet, there is a plethora of flavor and character in this wine!
JOHN: Yes, and a great earthiness – with mushroom and minerality. There was a great deal more rainy days in October of ‘07, right before harvest, and far fewer really hot days. This made for a really unique wine.
RED: Again, I love it. In a sentence, what is your overall winemaking philosophy?
JOHN: Just don’t screw it up! I believe that great wines come from great vineyards. Vineyard selection is key for me, so is blending, but when it comes to the winemaking process, I try to have little influence over the wine. Sure, sometimes I have to fine tune a little, just like any winemaker.
RED: How involved are you with the vineyards?
JOHN: I have great relationships with my growers. All of them allow me to make recommendations. Some even follow them! This time of year, I try to visit each vineyard every 2 to 3 weeks.
RED: Who do you make your wines for, John?
JOHN: (pause) For me, but me of 7 years ago.
RED: When you started Grochau Cellars…
JOHN: Exactly. Hey, you spies really gather your intelligence. What else do you know about me?
RED: We know that you started your wine career by way of your 15 year restaurant career. We know that you developed a keen interest in wine, which led you to spend a harvest in Sonoma County in 1999. That harvest with spent with our friends at Deerfield Ranch Winery, where you spent your first day powerwashing buckets…
JOHN: And then?
RED: Then you hopped through a series of winery positions, working in almost every role within a small handful of respected wineries. Eventually you became winemaker. You did this until you were inspired to start your own winery. Your first vintage was just under 300 cases, and your biggest recent vintage was 3000 cases. Yes, we know quite a bit about your impressive career. We’ve had you under surveillance for quite some time.
JOHN: Wow.
RED: So, back to winemakeing. If you make wines for you of 7 years ago, what would you make for the you of today.
JOHN: Wines so tweaky that nobody else would probably even like them!
RED: So, you’d say that your current wine are pleasing to a wine-drinkers palate?
JOHN: Exactly right. I am sensitive to that, to be sure. I make wines that are flexible, in that they can be enjoyed on their own or with a meal. Some wines are distinctly either-or.
RED: And, are your wines built for aging, or are they drink now wines.
JOHN: You can definitely enjoy my wines on release, and they will continue to develop for another 5 to 8 years. Personally, I would encourage people to buy enough bottles to drink and hold. Revisit the wine after a year and a half, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised!
RED: I’ll do that myself. Thanks for spending this time with me today, John. Are you off to dinner now?
JOHN: Yes, I am hungry after that bike ride.
RED: What will you be drinking tonight?
JOHN: Are you kidding? My Cuvee Des Amis!
RED: Cheers to that!
Wine Spies Vineyard Check:
The location of the Anderson Family Vineyard, one of the two vineyard sources for today’s wine, can be seen in this satellite photo.
The location of the Monks Gate Vineyard, the second of the two vineyard sources for today’s wine, can be seen in this satellite photo.
