2007 Trinitas Cellars Carneros Chardonnay

Mission Codename: The Holy Trinitas – Redux

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Revisit Trinitas Cellars and investigate their Carneros Chardonnay

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Trinitas Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Carneros Chardonnay

Winemaker: Kevin Mills

Backgrounder:

Carneros Chardonnay is revered for its quality, elegance and smoothness. The Carneros viticultural area, a wine growing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley, has been a great source of wine that we have featured here. Always, those wine have been of supreme quality. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Chardonnay and Chardonnay literally thrives there. Trinitas’ Chardonnay is truly representative of the region and is fast becoming a Wine Spies operative favorite.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Straw-yellow and becoming light gold in color at its core hinting at this wine’s pending maturity. When swirled, this wines slightly viscous texture is revealed and evenly spaced medium-thick legs quickly descend down the side of the glass.

Smell – Medium in intensity with developed aromas of tropical fruit, fresh ripe figs and a hint of citrus are balanced over toasty sweet vanilla, hints of hazelnuts, smoke and spice and a tiny touch of honey.

Feel – Medium-bodied, rich and slightly creamy in texture with a touch of tang and spice backed by a slight mineral note that is well balanced over its smooth mouth-feel.

Taste – Well integrated and classic flavors of tropical fruit and melon along with sweet mandarin orange, ripe figs and a tiny pineapple tanginess that are layered over a slightly smokey and toasty vanilla-oak component, a little creamy butter, some soft spice and a hit of flinty minerality.

Finish – Clean and medium in length with exceptional balance between this wine’s crispness and creaminess. Lingering flavors of ripe fig, creamy butter and spice.

Conclusion – The 2007 Trinitas Cellars Carneros Chardonnay is a lovely California styled and classic Chardonnay that shows excellent balance, finesse and elegance. Not overly oaked or a butter-ball either but still showing those requisit aromas and flavors in the perfect proportion to its fruit and complex spice and smokiness. This wine is ideally suited to pairing with all of your spring food creations or for enjoying on a warm afternoon pre-barbecue.

Mission Report:

Located at the southern end of the Napa Valley, nestled behind the Meritage Resort & Spa and buried in and underground cave, lies a remarkable secret: Trinitas Cellars.

Trinitas first came to my attention while on stakeout during a prior mission. I was on a vetting mission and was keeping an eye on a potential new asset. If this person proved to have the connections that she was reported to, I’d be recruiting her by days end.

I had followed her to the Meritage Resort, when she was having what looked to be a poolside meeting with a group I recognized as some heavy-hitters in the biz. These guys are all business and so I knew that my target must have the chops that her dossier suggested.

A waitress offered me a menu but I politely waved it away. Instead, I simply asked her for a glass of their best house Pinot Noir.

The wine arrived. The waitress set it down on the table in front of me. I handed her a $20 and told her to keep the change. I sat and watched my target for some time before finally picking up the wine.

I inhaled deeply – and the hairs on my neck stood up. This, I could tell, was one excellent wine! I spent the next several minutes enraptured by the wine. It was a young wine, I could tell, but it was very impressive.

When I finally looked up, my target was gone! How could I let myself be so distracted? On scanning the area, my eyes came to rest on an anomaly in the landscape; The hill that sat behind me, over my right shoulder, was obviously manmade. I had seen enough ‘hills’ like this to know that it was a wine cave!

I got to my feet and dashed toward the hill. Cleverly concealed as it might have been, I quickly found the entrance. Once inside I made my way through the cavern, eventually finding – a full tasting room!

And there, at the bar, was my target and her cohorts.

The woman behind the bar beamed at me and said, “Welcome to Trinitas Cellars!”

Trinitas, eh? This requires deeper investigation…

Agent Red, out!

Agent White, reporting:

Is Agent Red losing it? Does he need glasses? The sign above the wine cave clearly reads, “Trinitas Cellars”. At least he returned to HQ with samples of that Pinot Noir. The Pinot, of course, turned out to be a 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir from Trinitas – and today we are proud to present you with an opportunity to try this special wine for yourself.

As for Agent Red and his mission worthiness, we are recommending that he be placed under closer scrutiny. His wine-finding skills are still top-notch, but his methods and his reports leave just a tad to be desired!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Trinitas Callears cave tasting room and winery can be seen, behind the Meritage Resport & Spa, in this satellite photo.

2005 Murphy Vineyards Meritage

Mission Codename: Generational

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate a World Exclusive Meritage wine, secure an ample quantity before it is released to the general public

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Murphy Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Meritage

Winemaker: Peter Murphy

Backgrounder: According to the US Meritage (rhymes with Heritage) Association, a red Meritage wine is made from a blend of two or more of the following varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, St. Macaire, Gros Verdot, or Carmenere. The Wine Spies have sampled many great Meritage wines and we are proud to bring you one of the finest examples we have ever tasted. A beautiful blend of fruit from the Sierra Foothills (60%) and from Napa Valley (40%), this wine is brilliantly balanced and bright, with a great deal of character and food-friendly greatness. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below:

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful and deep ruby red, with deeply concentrated color out to the garnet edges. The wine shows perfect clarity through its deep heart. On swirling, the wine appears solid and dense, settling quickly and leaving behind chubby legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – Dark and dusky mixed berries lead the charge, giving way to raspberry, cherry, soft spice, earthen oak and a hint smoky meat and the most delicate eucalyptus

Feel – Medium bodied and soft, the wine feels bright and light at first and then a moment later it settles in all around the mouth, gripping the back of the tongue at first, and then the edges and front

Taste – Brightly exciting and delicious with a big smoky juiciness – with flavors of smoky bright red cherry, blackberry, blueberry, soft spice and black pepper with earthen components that include cigar box and softest tomato stem

Finish – Long and bright and lush, the flavors morph and change as they gently tail off – ultimately finishing dry and tart and slightly smoky

Conclusion – This is a remarkable and deeply delicious wine! It just works on so many levels. This is a wine of nearly perfect balance, with bright flavors, aromas and acidity – but its also possesses depth. This is a big and juicy wine with character, great flavors and brilliant brightness. Its a fun wine with a serious side. Its bright acidity makes it a natural companion for a great meal. Of course, though, this wine has enough complexity and character to make it a really interesting and exciting wine to enjoy all on its own. Long story short, this wine gets a huge Wine spies recommendation.

Mission Report:

The following is a mission recap, which retells the story of how Agent Red first became acquainted with Murphy Vineyards. Please note that the recap below refer to a wine that we previously showed. Today’s wine is Murphy’s brilliant 2005 Meritage:

Seemingly a million different influences affect the life of a wine. Wines start in the vineyards and, almost magically, they end up in our glasses. Along the mystical route so many things can go right or wrong – and these things all determine whether we’ll love a wine or not. Forces at work also determine whether we’ll even get to ever see, smell, or even taste a wine that we desire. If a wine is too good, chances are most folks will miss out, due to frenzied demand for the wine.

Today, The Wine Spies are able to bring you a wine that is headed for such greatness. Today’s wine, a perfectly balanced 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Murphy Vineyards, is not as over-the-top as some Napa Cabs, but it is fantastic!

Where some Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon can have too much intensity of flavor, this wine finds harmonious balance of fruit, flavor and feel. Where big Napa Cab can be almost chewy, clumsy or overly heavy, this wine has poise and grace – without being too dainty.

When we first learned of this wine from a field asset who we’ll call Major Majors, we were interested. After Major Majors passed vetting, we conducted an investigation of Murphy Vineyards. The first thing of note was that Peter Murphy was a man of the vineyards. In our opinion, it is in the vineyards where great wine is really born. Without great care in tending and managing, vineyards can turn out grapes that make sub-par wines. Peter Murphy’s life has been focused on vineyard care first.

On closer inspection of Murphy Vineyards, we learned that Peter had enlisted the masterful winemaking skills of his long-time friend Art Finklestein. You know Art well from a previous mission to Judd’s Hill Winery in May when we sold out of Judd’s Hill wine that we featured.

The pairing of these two wine-crafting legends ensures that all Murphy Vineyards wines are great. Today’s wine is really great, and we hope that you have a chance to enjoy some.

Be sure to sign up for our Daily Dispatch. We are certain to feature great wines from Murphy Vineyards in the future.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Napa Valley vineyard, where the Cabernet Sauvignon in today’s wine was grown, can be seen in this satellite photo.

The location of the Sierra Foothills vineyard, where the Cabernet Franc in today’s wine was grown, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Davis Bynum Winery Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Fallin’ for Allen

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Davis Bynum Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Gary Patzwald

Backgrounder:

The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler meritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Davis Bynum’s extended focus on, and love for, the region means that their particular Pinot Noirs are beautifully crafted to reflect the best that the region has to offer.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Classic burgundy and garnet in color with ruby highlights that sparkle through its clear core. Garnet to pink along the edges with clusters of fat slow legs that ring the glass when swirled.

Smell – Complex and well developed with earthy and aromatic red and black cherry leading off with hints of ripe strawberry as well. Layer upon layer of herbal, floral rose petal, spice and gun-smoke aromas balanced over funky barnyard and mushroom notes. As this wine opens up hints of caramel emerge.

Feel – Luscious and soft, this medium-bodied dry wine is has ultra-fine medium tannins and medium-bright acidity that leaves a touch of tanginess that compliments the spice that hits on the sides and back of the palate.

Taste – Plush and fresh ripe red and black cherry flavors are flawlessly integrated with this wine’s earthy backbone. Hints of cola, spice, fresh herbs, citrus zest and gun-smoke add to the overall complex nature of this lovely Pinot.

Finish – Clean and long with earthy cherry and strawberry jam that fades slowly with notes of spice, citrus zest and lingering smokiness.

Conclusion – The 2005 Davis Bynum Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir shows exceptional finesse and elegance with a distinct purity of fruit. Sweet and seductive aromas and flavors with a plush texture that makes this wine an excellent example of how great Russian River Valley Pinot Noir can be. Compare this wine to wines from the same vineyard that cost upwards of $100-150 and can only be acquired by special allocation.

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of our first encounter with Davis Bynum Wines by Agent Red and Dr. Pinot.

For today’s mission, I called upon Dr. Pinot, a trusted asset with a nose for sleuthing great Pinot Noir.

I was given three single vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs, and I needed to pick the best one for today’s wine offering.

Each of the wines was placed in a paper bag, concealing their true identities. We mixed them up and then proceeded to taste through them. Interestingly, the wines progressed from lighter in stye to darker and more rich. The middle wine – today’s wine – was the clear winner, exhibiting the best all-around balance of the three.

A hearty thanks to Dr. Pinot for helping me to choose today’s wine. What follows is the possibly-true story of Dr. Pinot’s own personal encounter with today’s wine:

Doctor Pinot Goes Kayaking

The Russian River was higher than normal for this time of the year due to the late spring rains, making for a quick float down stream from Healdsburg. Padding over to a flat spot at the base of a steep bank, on the back side of what was now considered by some in the area to be the holy grail of Russian River vineyard sites, Doctor Pinot jumped into the shallows, and secured his kayak on the rocky beach.

Reaching into his boat, opening the hatch to the watertight stowage compartment, he pulled out a bottle from an old friend. A friend who used to cajole him each harvest to come back from his station in some unknown, godforsaken place, to decompress by helping with that year’s winemaking at his new Northwest Sonoma County winery project. His friend, Davis Bynum, journalist turned winemaker was great at shaking hands with the growers in the area, and securing fruit from the best vineyard sites in the Russian River AVA for his famed single vineyard Pinot Noirs.

Doctor Pinot opened his treasured bottle of 2005 Davis Bynum Widdoes Vineyard Pinot Noir, from a 23 acre block planted more than 20 years ago, and farmed since by another friend, Warren Dutton: a site he knew well, located in a very cool section of the Green Valley, on Astascadero Creek, between Graton and Occidental. Planted to the Beringer clone, this dry farmed, cool site consistently produced Pinot Noirs with balance and concentration.

Opening the bottle, and pouring the wine into his Reidel “O” glass, Doctor Pinot tasted and closed his eyes as the wine took him back to his college days working as a vendangeur at Etienne Sauzet’s property in Puligny-Montrachet. This wine had a ‘somewhereness’. This land, this place had made its mark, exhibiting aromas of earth and hillside redwood forest floor, layered with vanilla and smoke, that soon evolved into flavors of orange peel, late summer raspberries, wild strawberries and cocoa. Doctor Pinot, normally quiet, but never at a loss for words, could only think of one at this moment in time … WOW!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Allen Vineyard in the Russian River Valley region can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Titus Vineyards Napa Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: Cache of the Titus

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to our old friends at Titus Vineyards, in Napa Valley, and procure their delicious estate Petite Sirah

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Titus Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Philip Titus

Backgrounder:

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

For today’s wine, Agent Red returns to Titus Vineyards to procure their 2006 Petite Sirah, a wine that is much sought after by the winery’s most ardent fans. Read Red’s mission notes and tasting notes below, for the full story on today’s wine – and learn of his initial encounter with this great winery

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy with an inky purple-garnet-black heart, a solid and tight looking surface, darkly concentrated purple edges and tightly-spaced legs that take a while to emerge – before they streak down the glass in thin columns

Smell – A big rush of earthy blackberry leads the way, followed by blueberry, oak, cocoa powder, a hint of vanilla and softest cedar

Feel – Cool and light-weight at the very tip of the tongue, with a mid-palate grippy dryness that leads to a bright and coating all-over-mouth robustness, with chewy medium to big tannins

Taste – Richly layered and highly concentrated flavors of dark stonefruit, jammy blackened mixed dark berries, soft cranberry, cassis, dark cherry, licorice and sweet forest floor

Finish – Dry and long with flavors that begins with slightly tart, and then go sweet as flavors tail off over a long interval

Conclusion – This is a great and extra-delicious Petite Sirah with deep aromatics and a unique light-weight feel that is great fun in the mouth. Decant for 30 minutes or more, and you will be rewarded with a softer feel and natural flavors. This is a big and chewy wine that will stain your tongue and teeth purple on first sip, and I guarantee any Petite lover that this wine is a sure pleaser. Petite Sirah has a reputation for overpowering a meal, but, remarkably, this wine has enough acidity and fine structure to make it a good food companion rather than a food competitor.

Mission Report:

I had the great fortune to visit Titus Vineyards a few days ago, and was able to walk the vineyards and kick the clumps of dirt with winemaker, Phil Titus.

Founded by Phil’s father, Lee, the winery started as a family affair with wife Ruth and their two sons, Eric and Phil. For several years they produced grapes for other prestigious wineries, including Charles Krug, Beaulieu Vineyards, Quail Ridge, and Pine Ridge.

Ultimately, Phil and Eric, too over the family business. Today, Phil is Titus’ winemaker, while Eric runs operations.

What follows is a transcript of my conversation with Phil, recorded late last year as we walked through the Titus vineyards on a beautiful Napa afternoon

Agent Red: Growing up around the vines and the business, I’m guessing that you been a wine guy your whole life. Am I right?

Phil Titus: Actually yes. I’m not good at much else. At least nothing that I could turn into a career. Wine is in my blood. As a kid, I found myself in the vineyards all of the time. Today, I could not imagine any other life for myself.

Red: What was your first family winery experience?

Phil: We’ll the most memorable and the most significant early experience came when I worked to plant a vineyard with my Mom, and Dad and brother. This vineyard is producing the wine that you will be bringing to your Operatives soon. It was our first and last full-family project and it is a very special vineyard that turns out some very special wines.

Red: And since planting that vineyard, how consistently involved have you been with these vineyards?

Phil: I haven’t missed a harvest since 1979!

Red: So, even when you were enrolled at U.C. Davis?

Phil: Yeah. And while other vineyards have come and gone, this vineyard has been producing great fruit and turning out great wines. The look like old vines, don’t they?

Red: Yeah, big and gnarly. Beautiful. Tell me, what’s keeping you busy this time of year?

Phil: That could take a long time! Well, first off, we’ve just completed the bottling of our ‘06 reds and our ‘07 whites. Now its time to turn our attention to the coming harvest. With verasion here – the moment that first color appears in the grapes – the grapes tell us that harvest is about 6 to 8 weeks away.

Red: How are the grapes looking for this harvest?

Phil: Really great, actually. Not only is the color very consistent, the evenness of the color in a single cluster is perfect. This makes our decision on when to pick far easier. Even color means more better control over the quality of the ripening. Too much green on a cluster and you get more green qualities in the final wine.

Red: Were you affected by the recent frost?

Phil: We had the good fortune to avoid the problems that were found in higher elevations, where some growers lost half of their crops or more.

Red: So, where is your prediction for 2008 vintage wines?

Phil: Looking great! The fruit looks really fantastic, but we’ll have a better sense once we harvest and get to crush.

Red: What about your ‘07 red? You must be playing with blending, right?

Phil: Yes, we have been lining up blind samples, tasting & determining the direction that the wines will take. We do this without knowing which wines are which. This helps us to have no preconceived notions about the wines, and allows us to taste for quality, regardless of which vineyards the juice came from. Its a fun time for us as it gives us a window into how our wines are progressing – and how they’ll turn out. 2006 is stupendous – and 2007 looks very promising – but make sure that your Operatives don’t miss our great Petite Sirah.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Azienda Agricola Varaldo 2006 Langhe DOC Nebbiolo

Mission Codename: The Fall Fog of the Piedmont

Operative: Agent White & Agent Free Run

Objective: Revisit Az. Agr. Varaldo and taste their delicious Nebbiolo

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Az. Agr. Varaldo

Wine Subject: 2005 Langhe DOC Nebbiolo

Winemaker: Michele Varaldo

Backgrounder:

Langhe DOC in Italy’s Piedmont overlaps the same regions as Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera d’Alba. The red wines from Langhe DOC can blend specifically approved (including Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, along with some non-domestic grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) with the base varietal Nebbiolo. Given the more flexible rules, the wines from Langhe are the Piedmont’s version of the popular Super Tuscan. This DOC was established in 1994, the DOC occupies mush of the province of Cuneo.

Today’s selection is a 100% Nebbiolo, the region’s most prolific and admired grape, is grown on the family’s 17 acre low-yield vineyard, carefully harvested by hand and is aged for 24 months in French oak.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet in color with a clear deep core that flashes ruby highlights when held to the light. The color holds its density just to the edge where it becomes a lighter shade of garnet then ruby/pink. Fast legs of medium thickness cascade down the side of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Bold and redolent red Italian cherry and other red and black fruit, including ripe plum and Nebbiolo’s distinctive tar component define this wine’s youthful nose. Behind those aromas are complex notes of licorice, chocolate, toasted oak and floral violet.

Feel – This dry and full-bodied wine has finely etched tannins, just enough spiciness and a bold and tangy acidity that carries the complex flavors through to the finish.

Taste – This wines abundant flavors crash over the palate revealing ripe red and black fruit, tar and earth on the first pass. As you explore this wine’s still youthful flavors you’ll discover hints of exotic spice, toasted oak and vanilla, dark chocolate and licorice.

Finish – Long and lingering with lasting fruit flavors, zesty Italian tar, dark chocolate and toasted oak that are well supported by this wines bold structure.

Conclusion – If you are a fan of Italy’s great wines of the Piedmont then the 2006 Varaldo Langhe DOC is sure to please. Bold and rich aromas and flavors, distinctly Italian in character, and a solid backbone structure. While this wine is just starting to become fully integrated, we recommend decanting this wine for full enjoyment now. This wine will also cellar well and is sure to evolve and improve for at least a decade to come.

Mission Report:

The last time Agent Free Run and I had a wine from Azienda Agricola Varaldo it was as part of a joke played upon us by our fellow agents. We were so taken by the uniqueness of the wine, however, we wanted to further explore the farm and their exceptional juice. Which brings us to today’s selection of their 2006 Langhe DOC Nebbiolo.

While less common here is the U.S., Nebbiolo is among the most prolific and greatest of indigenous grapes in Italy and accounts for some of their most exceptional wines. Specifically, Nebbiolo finds is most expressive nature in the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo is named for the fog (Nebbia – see photo at left) that is common in the region at harvest time.

Today’s selection is unique in that its formal designation is that of Langhe DOC and the Varaldo farm lies within the boundaries of Barbaresco. The Langhe DOC overlaps a larger region and was established to give the local wine producers added flexibility in making blended wines similar to the much loved Super Tuscans.

This is why this wine is so unique, it is a purely varietal, 100% Nebbiolo from the family’s exceptional single low-yield/high density vineyard and yet is retains its looser Langhe designation. Thus, the challenge (and arguably many flaws) in Italy’s confusing Goria’s Law That being said, if you enjoy Barolo or Barbaresco made in the more modern riper form, then this wine is for you.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Varaldo farm can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 James Family Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Nothin’ Phony About Stony

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a delicious single vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: James Family Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Mat Gustafson

Backgrounder:

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the 750 square mile area with the Pacific ocean on its western boundary, the San Pablo Bay to the south and Mendocino County to the north, headed inland to the other designated AVAs in Sonoma County. The region is heavily influenced by the cooler ocean climate, increased rainfall and fog that lingers long on the coastal mountains. The specific climate suits the demanding Burgundian varietals of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir very well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Bright and crystal clear ruby red that effortlessly fades from ruby to pink along the edges. Alternating fast and slow thin legs ring the edge of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Soft and well integrated but youthful in character with aromas of tart and ripe raspberry and red cherry with hints of vanilla toast (reminiscent of toasted marshmallow), subtle earth, herb and floral notes and a touch of gun smoke and mocha coffee.

Feel – This medium-bodied wine is extremely smooth on the palate with fine easy tannins and medium acidity that adds just a touch of tanginess. Hints of medium spice hit the edges and back of the tongue.

Taste – Fresh and luscious tart and ripe red raspberry and red cherry supported by flavors of vanilla oak and hints of caramel and mocha. A touch of spice, earth, fresh herbs and gun smoke add to the overall complexity but do so without overpowering the silky texture and flavors of this wine.

Finish – Medium in length, clean and fresh with lingering fruit, toasted vanilla and hints of spice.

Conclusion – The 2007 James Family Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is a delicious wine that shows tremendous finesse and elegance all the while being plush, fresh and youthful in its aromas, texture and flavors. Easy to drink, this wine is an absolutely perfect way to start a Spring meal or simply to enjoy on a warm afternoon as the days become longer. This wine is drinking perfectly right now and should continue to develop for the next few years.

Mission Report:

Everyone knows that I am the real brains behind The Wine Spies. I push the buttons and turn the dials that keep our organization moving at maximum efficiency.

For today’s wine, I cleverly and covertly leaked some tasty intel to the winery itself – and that led them to seek out Agent Red. The winery contacted Red through back channels and a meeting was set at the winery property in Cotati, California. What follows is his brief report:

I was lucky enough to snag today’s choice assignment. Its always nice when a winery comes to us, especially when that winery thinks that they found us on their own. In reality, Agent White worked his magic, and the winery sought me out.

Emails exchanged, phone calls made and appointments set, I set off toward the vineyards which house the James Family Cellars winery. I knew from the approximate location, that the estate vineyards were set in among some of the largest vineyards in the area, those owned by wine giant Gallo. Gallo is a really interesting topic for another day. Suffice to say that Gallo actually happens to make a few really surprisingly great wines, some of which come from – you guessed it – these neighboring vineyards.

The day was sunny, clear and pristine. As I drove up, I spotted co-owner Judy James. As I parked, she walked up and greeted me. The vineyards here were perfectly tended and very neat. The first tiny buds were just starting to appear and Judy explained that everything was looking just perfect.

Inside the ranch house, I met the other co-owner, husband Jeff James. After a few pleasantries, we sat down at a long dining table. Bottles were presented, wine was poured, and lively conversation ensued.

These James’ were warm and very down to earth folks. Born of a multi-generational Sonoma Country farming family, Judy James describe to me that they had been growing grapes on their estate property for Schramsberg winery, for its sparkling wine program. The grapes were creating such good wines, that, in 2007, they decided to craft their own Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Jeff James is humble about his wines, which are of remarkable quality for such a new wine label. He attributes the quality to the great fruit that is grown right here on the family’s estate property.

Handled minimally, farmed sustainably and using more natural techniques, the grapes are lovingly crafted into fine wines. This nurturing of vineyard, grape and wine leads to remarkable, award winning wines. Their Pinot Noir is extremely impressive for such a young wine. This is a brilliant testament to the land, the fruit, the people and the love that is each bottle produced here.

This wine get a very solid Wine Spies recommendation. Available in such small quantities, be sure to pick some up – before we run out, dear Operative.

Agent Red, OUT.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the James Family Cellars can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Stephen & Walker Trust Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: More medals than Michael Phelps

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Operatives have been clamoring for a big, juicy and delicious Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, worthy of their exacting tastes. Send Agent Red to the DCV to secure an ample cache of the best Zinfandel he can find

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Stephen & Walker

Wine Subject: 2005 Estate Zinfandel – Dry Creek Valley

Winemaker: Nancy Walker

Winery Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley_ Zinfandels, which are characterized by their big, extracted flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and juicy ruby red with a slightly darker heart, with perfect clarity and concentrated color, right out to the farthest pink edge of the wine. When swirled, this wine shows a fast-settling and continually-spinning surface that leaves behind tightly packed clusters of skinny legs that move down the glass at staggered speeds

Smell – Richly aromatic, with cascading layers of juicy blackberry, dark cherry, raspberry, and cassis, with soft spices and cigar box, followed by chocolate, soft oak and a hint of truffle

Feel – Exciting and medium-bodied, right for the start, then the wine glides across the mid-palate before becoming more grippy as medium grained, ripe tannins take hold

Taste – Bright and juicy cherry and berry lead the charge, then a more soft and smoky character reveals itself, accompanied by flavors of bakers chocolate, generous soft spice and a subtle truffle earthiness and soft minerals

Finish – This wine finishes smooth, softly dry and ultra-long showing off a balance of its fruit, spice and earthiness

Conclusion – We really enjoy Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, but we love today’s shining example from our friends at Stephen & Walker Vineyards. Their 2005 Estate Zinfandel is worthy of our strongest praise – and well worthy of your collection, dear Operative! If you go as crazy over great Zinfandel as we do, give this one a swirl – and see what all of the medal fuss is about. This wine deserves all the Gold it has received. From its big and juicy flavors, to the supple texture and on to its finale finish, this food friendly wine is also a perfect solo-sipper for those that really appreciate a fine Zinfandel.

Mission Report:

“Ἐν οἴνῳ ἀλήθεια!”

I awoke with a start. “Who’s there?!” I demanded.

Silence.

4:15am. No security alarms. Its cold, but I decide to get up to see if I have had a breech.

A quick sweep of the safe house and a check of the security system reveals that I am, indeed, alone.

When I return to bed, my phone boop-beeps. An urgent dispatch from HQ. It reads:

Agent Red: Pliny the Elder has been kidnapped and is being transported to Germania. Proceed to intercept immediately.

This made little sense. Pliny and Germania. I pinched myself to make sure I was awake. OUCH! It seemed that I was.

I quickly packed my gear and made my way to the door. I opened it, and… there stood an imposing figure – in a toga. He smiled broadly at me and pushed me to the floor. I knew that this was Pliny.

I said to him, “Well, I don’t know how you can even exist, but this should make for an intriguing mission report.

With that, he said, “True glory consists in doing what deserves to be written; in writing what deserves to be read”

“Umm, ok. If you say so.”

With that he picked up the bottle of Stephen & Walker Howell Mountain Cab that I had reviewed the night before. He looked at the label, grinned broadly and said, “In vino veritas!”

I stared at him for a moment. Then, a loud cacophony of sounds rang out – jarring me suddenly awake. I had been asleep!

I looked over at my review station. There, the bottle I had reviewed sat empty – where I had only poured myself a glass. And, emerging from the neck of the bottle – a single olive branch…

2006 O’Brien Estate Winery Seduction

Mission Codename: The Power of Love

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Operative’s favorite, O’Brien Estate, and secure an ample quantity of their beautiful Seduction Napa red blend for our romantically inclined Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: O’Brien

Wine Subject: 2006 O’Brien Estate Seduction

Winemaker: David Yorgensen

Backgrounder: Earlier this year, we had the great fortune to have infiltrated the O’Brien Estate winery, where Agent Red discovered O’Briens incredible 2005 Seduction, an elegant and delicious red blend. Agent Red’s keen nose for blends containing his favorite varietal, Cabernet Franc, led him to secure a cache of cases. Our Operatives purchased all of the allocation, making it one of our more popular Napa reds. Napa Red blends, particularly those from the Oak Knoll District, have always been popular with our Operatives. For today’s wine, we sent Agent Red back to O’Brien to secure their 2006 Seduction, an even more fantastic Double Gold Medal winner. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting notes below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby with a darker heart of garnet to nearly black. This wine has deep color concentration, right out its burgundy-colored edges. On swirling, this wine moves fast and shows a slightly springy surface that settles quickly, leaving behind chubby, wide-spaced legs that take a long time to emerge before they finally crawl down the inside of the glass

Smell – Medium bodied on the nose, leading off with succulent black cherry, sweetwoods, cassis, truffle, a hint of spice – and an unusual wintergreen that shows up on very deep inhalation

Feel – Round and light on entry, then the wine settles in, exhibiting a sexy medium body with supple fine-grained tannins

Taste – Dusky cherry leads the way, with juicy dark mixed berries, soft spice, sweetwoods, and soft oak

Finish – Starts dusky and earthen, and then dark stonefuit emerges and reveals a slight dryness and spicy tannins as flavors tail off slowly

Conclusion – Once again, O’Brien Estate Winery impresses us with its winemaking kung-fu! This wine outshines even the 2005 Seduction which I raved about earlier this year. Fuller of flavor, more voluptuous of feel and more seductive on the nose, this wine provides an even deeper experience. Made from 100% Estate grown fruit, this wine is a delicious threat whose component wines all play together perfectly, with no one varietal outshining another. I am very partial to Cabernet Franc, and while it is certainly present in this wine, it does not come through as vegital or green as Cab Franc can. The Merlot gives the wine a bright acidity while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides ample backbone, without overpowering the wine – or your palate. This is a great food wine, and we enjoyed a bottle with a simple baked penne that was topped with mixed cheese that was browned to a crisp. Later, we opened a second bottle and enjoyed that on its own. This provided two distinctly different experiences. The wine matched perfectly with food, which it complimented rather than muscled out. As a solo-sipper, we were able to more carefully pay attention to its subtle nuances. Either way, we were delightfully seduced!

Mission Report:

The life of a wine spy can be a lonely and isolated affair. Field reconnaissance or undercover missions can keep me away from loved ones for days or even weeks at a time. Don’t get me wrong, I love my work. It is incredibly rewarding to sleuth great wines for our Operatives.

Waaaaaaa!, right? Poor Wine Spy, poor International man of wine-intrigue. Okay, I admit it. I sometimes wallow in self pity. Don’t we all get a little blue sometimes?

On a particularly grueling mission recently, I found myself staked out – in the rain – waiting for a local asset to stash a wine in our previously-arranged dead drop. He was late, I was wet and I had not been on a date with Agent Sparkle for what seemed like an eternity.

More rain. More waiting… and then a solitary figure appeared at the edge of the city park. The figure headed for the bench, my dead drop, but the passed right by it. Something was definitely wrong. This person was decidedly more lithe than my bulky field asset.

I crouched lower into the ditch, in the process filling my rubber boots with water. The figure was coming directly toward me now. I crouched lower and, in doing so, slipped in the mud – getting a mouth full of muddy water in the process.

Fearing that I had been spotted, I held perfectly still, listening intently. A loud click-click sound rang out from above me. I braced for the worst… and then realized that the rain has stopped beating down on me.

The sound of soft laughter followed, as did a hand on my shoulder.

“It’s me, silly!”

Agent Sparkle!

I asked her, “What are you doing here?” Her smile, warmed me, making me forget my miserable situation.

“I hope that you don’t mind, but I hacked into your mission logs and found out that you would be here. I headed off your asset and got the bottle from him. let’s go find somewhere warm and cozy to open this baby up!”

With that, my spirits were elevated. Within a few minutes we were at our nearest safehouse, fireplace blazing, wine decanted, soft music playing in the background.

For the balance of the evening we thoroughly enjoyed Bart O’Brien’s exquisite Seduction while chatting, laughing and [REDACTED].

If you are looking to lift the spirits of someone you love, or want the perfect wine for your romantic encounters, this wine is highly recommended!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the O’Brien Estate vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Grochau Cellars Cuvee Des Amis Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: A True Friend

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Roam Oregon’s lush Willamette Valley in search of a Pinot Noir that delivers

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Grochau Cellarstate

Wine Subject: 2007 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir

Winemaker: John Grochau

Backgrounder:

The Oregon’s Willamette Valley, just south of Portland and along the Willamette River is well known for Pinot Noir and other Burgundian varietals. Its deep and fertile volcanic soil, cooler climate most directly effect viticulture. Most of the vineyards in this area are planted in the valley’s and hillsides along the river.

With a focus on Pinot Noir, Grochau Cellars has met its goal of crafting wines that are, first, a joy to drink. Proprietor and winemaker, John Grochau, believes in making without exerting too much influence over them. That is, without the aid of modern winemaking technology, John allows the wine to progress and evolve more naturally. As a result, John’s wines present fruit that sings out, offering a true expression of the unique terroir of the lush Willamette Valley. Today’s exceptional Crochau Pinot Noir is special treat that will thrill Pinot Noir fans of any regional preference. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below for the full scoop

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – With hues of a French Burgundy, and the clarity of a domestic Pinot Noir, this wine shows slightly purple to ruby in color, with concentrated color out to the pinkish edges of the wine. When swirled, this wine appears soft and springy. When it settles, it leaves behind tight clusters of skinny legs that take a very long time to emerge before they move slowly down the glass

Smell – Lush and deep with a delightful medium intensity and a balanced nose of red cherry, baking spices, blackberry and a hint of ripe raspberry. These are underpinned by a delicious earthiness with truffle, cut violets, fresh mulch and the slightest hint of oak

Feel – This soft, round and medium-bodied wine start off tart and tangy with a bright acidity, velvety tannins and a touch of minerality

Taste – Well integrated flavors of red-fruit of ripe red cherry, raspberry and tart cranberry with hints of soft spice, earthiness and subtle gunpowder , which is something I have smelled and really like in Pinot Noir!

Finish – Earthy and soft, with round fruits that linger long after you sip. The gunpowder flavor is more pronounced as the fruit flavors tails off, giving this wine a truly unique finish

Conclusion – This delicious wine is beautifully balanced in its flavors, aromatics and feel. The unique flavor of gunpowder, which is present on the palate and at the tail of the finish, is really my impression of what gunpowder might taste like, rather than direct experience. I enjoyed this wine directly on opening and then again several hours later. I usually expect a wine to soften and become more fully integrated after spending time exposed to the air like this, but this wine was equally delightful in both instances. The wine did become a little more soft and round on the palate, but the flavors and aromas maintained a remarkable consistency. If you have never tried an Oregon Pinot Noir, this is the one to try. It is certainly the best Oregon Pinot that I have had the pleasure to enjoy!

Mission Report:

I was able to catch up with John Grochau recently. What follows is an extract of our conversation:

AGENT RED: Hey, John! Thanks for taking some time to chat with me. Good bike ride today?

JOHN GROCHAU: Yes! I had to take advantage of the 80-degree day. We don’t get too many of them up here!

RED: I won’t keep you long, but I wanted to ask you a couple of questions. First off, though, I have to say that I love your flagship wine. Your 2007 Cuvee Des Amis Pinot is a gorgeous wine.

JOHN: Thanks, Red. Glad you like it. 2007 was a very interesting year for Pinot. It was a cooler year, which means that the flavors are not as extracted as, say, even 2006 was.

RED: And yet, there is a plethora of flavor and character in this wine!

JOHN: Yes, and a great earthiness – with mushroom and minerality. There was a great deal more rainy days in October of ‘07, right before harvest, and far fewer really hot days. This made for a really unique wine.

RED: Again, I love it. In a sentence, what is your overall winemaking philosophy?

JOHN: Just don’t screw it up! I believe that great wines come from great vineyards. Vineyard selection is key for me, so is blending, but when it comes to the winemaking process, I try to have little influence over the wine. Sure, sometimes I have to fine tune a little, just like any winemaker.

RED: How involved are you with the vineyards?

JOHN: I have great relationships with my growers. All of them allow me to make recommendations. Some even follow them! This time of year, I try to visit each vineyard every 2 to 3 weeks.

RED: Who do you make your wines for, John?

JOHN: (pause) For me, but me of 7 years ago.

RED: When you started Grochau Cellars…

JOHN: Exactly. Hey, you spies really gather your intelligence. What else do you know about me?

RED: We know that you started your wine career by way of your 15 year restaurant career. We know that you developed a keen interest in wine, which led you to spend a harvest in Sonoma County in 1999. That harvest with spent with our friends at Deerfield Ranch Winery, where you spent your first day powerwashing buckets…

JOHN: And then?

RED: Then you hopped through a series of winery positions, working in almost every role within a small handful of respected wineries. Eventually you became winemaker. You did this until you were inspired to start your own winery. Your first vintage was just under 300 cases, and your biggest recent vintage was 3000 cases. Yes, we know quite a bit about your impressive career. We’ve had you under surveillance for quite some time.

JOHN: Wow.

RED: So, back to winemakeing. If you make wines for you of 7 years ago, what would you make for the you of today.

JOHN: Wines so tweaky that nobody else would probably even like them!

RED: So, you’d say that your current wine are pleasing to a wine-drinkers palate?

JOHN: Exactly right. I am sensitive to that, to be sure. I make wines that are flexible, in that they can be enjoyed on their own or with a meal. Some wines are distinctly either-or.

RED: And, are your wines built for aging, or are they drink now wines.

JOHN: You can definitely enjoy my wines on release, and they will continue to develop for another 5 to 8 years. Personally, I would encourage people to buy enough bottles to drink and hold. Revisit the wine after a year and a half, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised!

RED: I’ll do that myself. Thanks for spending this time with me today, John. Are you off to dinner now?

JOHN: Yes, I am hungry after that bike ride.

RED: What will you be drinking tonight?

JOHN: Are you kidding? My Cuvee Des Amis!

RED: Cheers to that!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Anderson Family Vineyard, one of the two vineyard sources for today’s wine, can be seen in this satellite photo.

The location of the Monks Gate Vineyard, the second of the two vineyard sources for today’s wine, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Valeriano

Mission Codename: Tribute to Family Tradition

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a lovely Bordeaux style blend for our operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2005 Valeriano Bordeaux Blend

Winemaker: Charlie Tsegeletos

Backgrounder:

There is a reason that Bordeaux is the benchmark for all red blends. The skillful combination of the noble grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot results in wines of exceptional character and quality. It is in this tradition and with the intention of honoring the second-born son of Giovanni and Terra Jacuzzi that this wine is named.

The fruit, representing all of the Bordeaux varietals hails from California’s famous Carneros region, known for its mild-cooler temperatures and a climate influenced by the neighboring San Pablo Bay that results in perfectly ripened fruit.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark garnet with dark ruby hues and a deep but clear core. Slightly lighter garnet along the edges and when swirled, this wine shows a slightly thick viscosity and its fast thin legs hold hints of this wine’s color as they streak down the side of the glass.

Smell – Medium in intensity, complex but well balanced and integrated with aromas of mild spice, fresh herbal notes, toasty oak and ripe juicy cherry. As you further explore this wine’s nose, hints of smoke, tobacco leaf and sweet-woods complement this wine’s pleasant bouquet.

Feel – Initially soft and smooth, this full-bodied wine’s finely grained tannins kick in just as you start to fully recognize the array of flavors in this wine. A touch of minerality and balanced acidity add a slightly tangy quality added by the fruit.

Taste -Fresh, ripe and plush flavors of red and black cherry that are well integrated with mild notes of spice; herbal and bramble notes; toasted and fresh oak; and a hints of minerality. Layers of tobacco, cigar-box and smoke add to the complexity of this wine.

Finish – Lingering and clean with flavors of oak, ripe cherry and herbal components that fade in unison and invite further exploration.

Conclusion – The 2005 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Valeriano is a lovely red Bordeaux style blend that shows classic old-world character with a distinct California Carneros flair, represented by the perfectly ripened fruit. Each varietal component of this wine sits in harmony with the others. A great structure that will hold up against your boldest foods, especially a grilled steak, or if you have patience (this spy does not) you can cellar this wine for years to come as it is sure to continue to develop in aromas, flavors and complexity over the next ten years, perhaps even longer.

Mission Report:

As a Wine Spy, I have several methods of collecting intelligence and information about wines and wineries. Of all of the myriad ways to gather intel, the best and most reliable is my network of assets.

An asset for those who do not know, is an individual that provides valuable information, sometimes without solicitation and at other times on a just in time basis.

It is through my assets that I have learned of new releases, pending ratings and scores, shortages and more. My assets have allowed me to stay way ahead of the game and without my network, my job would be far more difficult.

I met my latest asset while vacationing near Lake Tahoe, earlier this year. After a day of snowboarding, I found myself relaxing in the hotel hot tub. It was just what I needed.

After a few minutes of soaking, I was joined by another hotel guest. We chatted as we soaked, and when the conversation turned to professions, I revealed that I was in the wine business. He revealed that he, ”… works for the FBI” and was an avid wine lover.

He told me that he was a fan of a website called The Wine Spies and had I heard of it. I feigned ignorance. He went on to tell me that he was a regular customer and that he first purchased a wine from The Wine Spies more than a year ago. I asked him which wine it was and he replied, “It was from Jacuzzi Family Vineyards…” He stopped and we both considered our situation – and then we both laughed!

We talked for a while longer and when I got out of the jacuzzi, I slipped a business card into his robe and said my good-bye.

Back in my hotel room, I send a dispatch to my contact at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards. Minutes later, I confirmed that we would be giving our Operatives another chance to sample another great Jacuzzi wine for today’s offering.

Just yesterday I got a note from my new friend in the FBI. It read:

”Agent Red: You did a great job of keeping your cover during our talk in Lake Tahoe. Well done. Thanks for all of the great wines. Keep up the covert ops! Also, consider me an asset. I’ll have some great wine recommendations – and insider information – coming soon. Sincerely, Special Agent Jones”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Jacuzzi Family Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.