2007 Stags’ Leap Winery Napa Valley Viognier

Mission Codename: Leap of Faith

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate world famous Stags’ Leap winery – and, just in time for spring, secure a cache of their famous Viognier

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Stags’ Leap

Wine Subject: 2007 Stags’ Leap Viognier

Winemaker: Kevin Morrisey

Backgrounder: A very shy grape that is difficult to grow, Viognier was once an endangered species worldwide. Today, skillful growers and winemakers tend the grapes with great care, closely monitoring their progress and picking at the pinnacle of ripeness. Viognier, when perfectly produced, is a dlightful wine that is the perfect alternative to more mainstream white wines like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. For today’s wine we sent Agent Red to Stags’ Leap in Napa Valley, where he discovers their stellar Viognier. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below to learn why you will love this wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Glistening gold to pale straw in color with a springy and tight surface, glinting edges and long, skinny legs

Smell – Beautifully aromatic with deep acacia, honeysuckle, pear, honey, lightest apricot, subtle pineapple and straw

Feel – Cool, light, round, velvety and fast across the top of the tongue – then gently mouth-coating with a slight tingle as soft tannins make a subtle appearance

Taste – Delicious layers of tropical fruits, grapefruit, pear, white peach, subtle oak and acacia

Finish -Bright, with balanced sweet and tart flavors that linger for a long time

Conclusion – This is a beautiful wine that shows off the exceptional fruit – and the skills of the winemaker! I tasted this wine right out of my chiller, and then again later as it wormed toward room temperature. Throughout the extended tasting, the wine evolved and opened up, showing deeper aromatics and smoother, more delicious, flavors. I recommend that you experiment and play with this wine in the same way for a full experience. We don’t feature many Viognier’s here, and for good reason: We are very picky! Well, this wine from Stags’ Leap passed our scrutiny with ease. This is a delightful and delicious wine that is the perfect companion to early Spring entertaining and fine dining.

Mission Report:

I have become a real fan of blind tasting. Tasting a wine, without knowing who makes it, is a great practice. It evens the playing field and makes the judging of the wine far more fair.

When considering today’s wine, I was faced with my own preconceived notion of the wine – especially of the brand. Stags’ Leap Winery is one of those almost mythic brands that just scream quality. Want to buy the good Stags’ wine? You don’t have to research your options overly; Just pick your favorite varietal and be virtually assured that you will enjoy the wine.

Because of this bias, I decided to taste blind. I pulled two other Viognier bottles from my secret stash and placed all three bottles into paper bags. Then I grabbed Agent Sparkle and we headed down to our favorite local wine bar to enlist the help of the owner and whatever customers we could wrangle.

Once there, we had one of the servers open the bottles and mix them up, and the bottles were marked ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’. Another server poured. In all, there were 8 of us tasting the wines. The other Viognier in the tasting were all respectable in their own right, so the judging would be as fair as possible.

After we had tasted all three wines, a clear and immediate winner seemed to emerge. One of the wines brought the most smiles and positive comments, but we had to be sure. We assigned a point value to 1st, 2nd and 3rd place and each of us awarded points to our ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’ wines. We enlisted the help of a non-drinking customer in tallying the points.

The ‘C’ wine was the overwhelming winner. When I grabbed the bag that contained our ‘C’ selection, I knew immediately what was inside. The distinctive voluptuous shape of the bottle told me that our winner was the 2007 Stags’ Leap Viognier! I slowly pulled the bottle out and then gently set the bottle on the table. There was a moment of contemplative silence – and then actual applause broke out. What a great moment and what a great wine!

We hope you enjoy this beauty as much as we have. Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Stags’ Leap Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Moretti Omero Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG

Mission Codename: Il Mio Nonno Perso – Part II

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Gather intel on the elusive Sagrantino grape and return with an exceptional example of the varietal

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Moretti Omero

Wine Subject: 2004 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG

Winemaker: Moretti Omero

Backgrounder:

Montefalco Sagrantino, a very small DOCG south of Perugia in the Umbria region of West Central Italy, is famous for producing one of the most unique and distinctive wines of Italy. The wines of this region are made exclusively from the Sagrantino grape, often thought to be the grandfather of the Sangiovese grape. Wines from this region come in two varieties, the sweeter passito style and those, like this wine, which are dry.

These wines date back to the 15th century, where the the name ‘sagra’ means festival, causing many to believe that these wines were used for celebratory occasions and special feasts. These wines universally have superbly balanced and have the dominate flavor of of ripe and fresh blackberries

The last time we featured this wine, it was the 2002 vintage, and even though the vintage was one of the poorest in recent memory in Italy, that wine showed that even in a bad year, great wines exist. The 2004 vintage was an excellent year and these wines are just now ready to drink.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Garnet purple with a clear relatively dark core with ruby highlights. Along the edges the color fades from brick to pinkish-orange. When swirled, clusters of fast thin tears ring the glass.

Smell – Classically old-world and medium bold in intensity with complex and well integrated aromas of earthy ripe cherry, dusty bramble-brush and blackberry, dried floral rose and violets, and a touch of sandalwood, vanilla spice and licorice.

Feel – Full-bodied, smooth and dry with excellent minerality, the fine grained but persistent tannins reach the far corners of the palate. The balanced acidity and excellent structure lingers through to the finish.

Taste – Tart and rich Italian cherry, hints of blackberry and bilberry are layered over complex herbal and earthy notes. Sandalwood, a touch of mild vanilla oak, black licorice and spice add to the classic flavors of this exceptional wine.

Finish – Super long and supported by this wines excellent structure. Lingering notes of earthy cherry, oak, spice and bramble invite sip after lucious sip.

Conclusion – The 2004 Moretti Omero Montefalco Sagrantino is a powerful wine that also shows tremendous finesse and elegance. The fine grained but firm tannins, lingering minerality and balanced acid carry the old-world aromas and flavors from the first sniff through to the last sip. If you are a fan of Italian wines, then this is a must have addition. Truly a special wine worthy of any of your celebrations. We recommend decanting this wine prior to serving.

Mission Report:

Below is a recap of when Agent White and Agent Baco Noir first discovered the great wines from Moretti Omero:

It all began at wine tasting earlier this year, when Agent Baco Noir was raving about the rare wines from Montefalco Sagrantino. It was decided at that point that The Wine Spies would have to search and return with one of these elusive ‘festival wines’ for our stateside operatives.

As I stepped off the train in Foligno, Agent Baco Noir was standing on the platform with a mischievous smile on her face. Not saying a word, we quickly passed through the station to a pair of Vespas she had procured for our upcoming mission. No directions, no dossier, just a map scribbled on the back of a cafe napkin.

Driving south-westbound out of the town we were immediately in the rural countryside. Farms, ranches and vineyards as far as the eye could see. We pulled up next to pig ranch where Baco Noir stepped off her scooter.

“We’re on foot from here”, is all she said, fixing her hair, adjusting her sunglasses and mumbling to herself about getting her designer high-heeled shoes dirty. I followed, not saying a word (I have learned to keep my mouth shut with regard to women and Italian shoes). Walking through the ranch we could see a farm house in the distance.

Approaching the farm house, we could see vineyards and olive groves surrounding the farm house. Just then, a man, clearly worn by working the land beckoned us into a small tasting room where he quickly disappeared into a back alcove. Emerging again almost immediately with a case of wine in hand he discretely gave them to Baco Noir, who still wearing her sunglasses, turned around and walked out the door. As soon as we stepped outside, she gave me the wine to carry back to the scooters.

Just as quickly as we got the wine, I found myself back at the train station, samples in hand. Baco Noir didn’t even get off her scooter, only saying “see you in the Piedmont in two weeks, give my regards to HQ, Ciao!” as she placed a parcel on top of the wine case I was carrying.

Not being able to wait to return to HQ for our tasting, I opened one of the bottles of the 2002 Moretti Omero Montefalco Sagrantino on the train back to Rome. I now now why this is such an exceptional wine. As I sipped the first glass, I opened the parcel, and inside to my surprise was a note, some Pecorino Toscana cheese, a Abruzzese sausage and some fresh fruit.

It might as well be a perfect day, I though, as I began to read Baco Noir’s note… (details redacted)

To this day, each time I taste this wine I am immediately transported back to that magical place.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Pali Wine Company Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: A Fortunate Meeting

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a unique Pinot made from great fruit with a great winemaker.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Pali Wine Company

Wine Subject: 2006 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Brian Loring

Backgrounder:

Our operatives are familiar with Inman’s Olivet Grange Vineyard in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Originally planted in 2000, this eight acre vineyard is tended with care and sustainable farming practices. Inman’s vineyard is truly representative of the region’s Terroir known for making some of California’s best Pinot Noir. The coller climate and morning fog results in a longer growing season. The fruit for this Pinot Noir was picked late in the ripening cycle making the resulting wine deep and concentrated.

The winemaker, Brian Loring, is obsessed (and that’s a good thing) with making Pinot Noir. His philosophy is that the fruit is everything, saying ”What happens in the vineyard determines the quality of the wine – I can’t make it better – I can only screw it up! That’s why I’m extremely picky when choosing vineyards to buy grapes from.” We are sure that you’ll agree that the fruit for today’s wine is worthy.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – This wine is clear and deep burgundy in color with garnet and ruby-red hues. Pinkish along the edges and when swirled leaves alternating slow and fast legs along the side of the glass.

Smell – Medium in intensity, with herbal and earthy notes over ripe and tart red fruit and specifically rich and concentrated red cherries and strawberries. Hints of sweet oak and exotic spice add to the complex nose of this wine.

Feel – An initially tangy attack, this medium-bodied and well structured wine is well balanced with good acidity and medium tannins that soften as it evolves in the glass.

Taste -Classic Pinot flavors of bright ripe red cherry, layered over complex notes of earth and mushroom, hints of spicy horseradish, fresh herbs and pepper as a touch of floral violet will cause you enjoy exploring this delicious wine as you enjoy sip after sip.

Finish – Long and lingering rich and ripe fruit flavors and aromas supported by its tannic structure and good acidity.

Conclusion – Pali Wine Company has been able to secure some exceptional fruit in their quest to produce exceptional single vineyard Pinot. Add to that, a winemaker with tremendous passion for his craft and the result are wines of distinction and quality. Today’s selection from Pali Wine Co is the first of several of the wines that we tasted. All impressed us and we are hoping to be able to feature more of these delicious wines in the future.

Mission Report:

Intel reports had been flooding into the W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) server about upstart winery Pali Wine Company and their alleged rendezvous with famed Pinot winemaker Brian Loring. After our investigation, we can confirm that over some great red meat and plenty of wine, Mr. Loring had been convinced to help create a series of single vineyard Pinot Noir.

Knowing Mr. Loring’s feelings that fruit drives the wine, the folks at Pali had their work cut out for them. Acquire fruit from some of the best vineyards in California and Oregon. It is in this spirit that we bring you the first of several exceptional wines that our tasting panel reviewed from Pali Wine Co. All are truly representative of their respective vineyards and have exceptional production quality.

Produced at their state-of-the-art and ultra-modern facility in Lompoc (next door to Loring Wine Co.) and the first new production facility in the area the resulting product is of exceptional quality. In addition, all of Pali’s wines are sealed using the Stelvin screw tops to ensure they arrive at your door in the same condition as they went into the bottle.

We are sure you’ll enjoy today’s selection from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley and specifically with fruit from Inman’s Olivet Grange Vineyard. Be sure to keep your eyes out for some of the others delicious Pali wines (and maybe even a Loring wine) we will be featuring in the future.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Inman’s Olivet Grange Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Wilson Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The Cast Away

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Operatives have been clamoring for a big, juicy and delicious Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, worthy of their exacting tastes. Send Agent Red to the DCV to secure an ample cache of the best Zinfandel he can find

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Wilson Winery & Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Estate Zinfandel – Sawyer Vineyard

Winemaker: Diane Wilson

Backgrounder: Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, which are characterized by their elegance and their rich flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A deep and juicy-looking ruby red with a heart of pure garnet. Held up in sunlight, this wine shows perfect clarity. When swirled, this wine shows a fast-settling and springy surface, leaving behind tightly packed legs that absolutely crawl down the glass

Smell – Deeply aromatic, with dark blackberry, raspberry, bright cherry and cassis, with soft spices and cigar box, followed by subtle cocoa

Feel – Round and velvet-smooth on the entry, then more grippy on the mid where the wine reveals an increasing richness as ripe tannins settle in as the mouth is coated – making you want to smack your lips!

Taste – Smokey and bright at the same time with a balance of delicious ripe fruits (which echo the nose) and darker flavors which are savory and very tasty. Present on the palate are jammy blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, smoky strawberry and dark cherry, with a gorgeous soft spice and a very subtle mushroomy earthiness

Finish – This wine finishes smooth and ultra-long with balanced flavors of its fruit, spice and a touch of earth

Conclusion – This is a big stunner of a Zin! With bold jammy fruit flavors and elegant spices, this wine is richly layered and deeply delicious. If you are looking for a Zin which is filled with character and long on aromatics and flavors, this is a wonderful selection. With great balance and perfect acidity, this wine is very food-friendly. Diane Wilson impresses us with this great single vineyard Zinfandel. I’m certain that you’ll love it as well.

Mission Report:

The following was recovered from Agent Red’s W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) hand held device. It contains entries from his personal electronic field diary. Agent Red is still missing – but is presumed to be fine:

10:09AM : While on a mission in the Dry Creek Valley today, I found myself at the edge of Dry Creek, needing to cross. Normally much more shallow, less wide and more slow-moving, the creek was engorged. Without properly assessing the situation, I decided to cross. I had found a narrow area with a number of evenly spaced rocks which reached from shore to shore. I successfully traversed to the middle – but then realized that I had misjudged the course; I was unable to step to the next rock. It was just too far away. Deciding to turn back, I stepped to the previous rock – and dislodged it! It tumbled noisily into the rushing water. STRANDED!

10:22AM : I am in the middle of the Dry Creek, stuck on a large rock. I cannot figure out how to get across.

10:36AM : I tried shouting for help but I am too far away from any of the neighboring wineries. I tried my phone, but there is no service here.

10:42AM : I am due to check in with HQ in 18 minutes. If I fail to check in, certainly they will begin a search for me.

11:02AM : I can only presume that a search has begun. It should only take H.Q about…. oh, no… twenty-four hours to locate me?!

11:47AM : The water is too cold and too fast-moving to attempt a swim to shore. I am getting hungry – and thirsty.

12:20PM : Recalling the tasting crackers in my daypack, I carefully take it off my back. I am disheartened to find only a few. I feel something heavy at the bottom of the bag and reach down inside. It’s a wine bottle. In fact, it’s a Wilson Zinfandel! Not just any Wilson Zin, this is their Sawyer Vineyard Zinfandel. A 2006 at that!

12:21PM : The crackers are gone. I am reluctant to open the Zinfandel. I may need it after nightfall.

12:22PM : I am going to open the Wilson. I retrieve the opener from my bag. I had been saving this bottle for a special occasion and, well, it does not get much more ‘special’ than survival.

12:25PM : I fumbled the bottle! I screamed, ”Willllll-sonnnnnnnnnnnn!” as I watched it float away. I am now certain that I won’t make it through the night.

12:29PM : I spotted Wilson! It got caught in the branches of a fallen tree. It is bobbing up and down tauntingly.

1:16PM : How can I get that bottle?! Maybe I’ll go mad here on this rock…

1:27PM : The water level is rising. Another few inches and my rock will be fully submerged. I think that I need to make a swim for Wilson. If I die today, at least I’ll die happy.

1:56PM : I am soaking wet and cold – but at least I reached Wilson. My arm is hooked around a branch, and I am clinging to the bottle with the same hand. My free hand alternates between operating my W.I.N.E. device and searching my pockets for my corkscrew!

2:05PM : I managed to get the bottle open. Wilson is providing me with great comfort.

2:27PM : I am wet and I am cold, but I am serenely happy. Wilson deserved its double Gold Medals, no doubt. This wine is a pleasure to drink on its own, and I can’t help but think about how great it would be with a nice tritip.

It is here that the diary entries end. We do have unconfirmed reports from local wineries that they spotted a singing and very drenched figure matching Red’s description. Agents have been sent to investigate.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Wilson Winery & Vineyards – and Dry Creek to the south – can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 St. Clement Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The View From Above

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exception Howell Mountain Cab for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: St. Clement Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Danielle Cyrot

Backgrounder:

Napa County’s Howell Mountain AVA, established in 1984 is known for its wines of deep concentration and intensity. The higher elevation and relatively flat aspect make the location great for vineyards, and specifically Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vines in the Howell Mountain area were planted in the 1880s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple, and almost black with a dark inky core and purple to ruby hued edges. When swirled, this wine leaves slow fat tears along the edge of the glass that show hints of this wine’s deep color.

Smell – Bold in intensity, but not overpowering with aromas of rich and ripe blackberry, blueberry and other dark fruit layered over an earthy, spicy white pepper and licorice base. As you further explore the well developed aromas of this wine hints of floral rose, sweet toasted oak, baking spices and a slight note of wild bramble brush.

Feel – Initially spicy, but this full-bodied wine softens and smoothes dramatically into a rich and opulent mouth-feel with firm, but fine grained tannins and easy acidity with lingering hints of spice on the edges of the tongue.

Taste -Ripe, rich and concentrated dark fruit and especially blueberry, blackberry and plum layered over a subtle sweet oak, spicy white pepper, and a touch of licorice. Earthy notes and touches of wild brush round out the complex but very approachable flavors in this wine.

Finish – Long and rich with lingering fruit supported but an excellent structure that invites one sip (and in our case, large gulps!) after another leaving you with hints of earth, spice and fruit as you explore all the flavors and aromas that linger.

Conclusion – The is just something about St. Clement wines that makes them so approachable and oh so delicious. If you tasted any of them, you will know that the fruit just stands out in an exceptional way. Howell Mountain is known for wines of dramatic concentration, and this wine delivers on that, but does so with lovely fruit framed by its earthy, spicy, and sweet oak making drinking this wine a pure joy. As this wine opens and breathes, it softens dramatically but still has the structure to stand on its own and will certainly cellar for many years to come.

Mission Report:

The following is an extract from our first-encounter mission report, in which Agent White first becomes acquainted with our now-good friends at St. Clement:

It was perhaps the strangest of locations to start a wine mission. I entered the church and as the instructions indicated, I was to go to the second pew and show penance. As I knelt, in the pew, I noticed a book with a bookmark in it. Looking more closely, it was a history of the Papacy and the page that was bookmarked was about Pope Clement I (Clemens Romanus), who is also known as St. Clement. No being sure if this was the clue, I stayed for another hour and beyond the woman practicing on the organ, nobody came or went from the church.

Back at HQ, I entered in our research computer the search term ‘Clement’ and found that indeed, the bookmark was a clue. All signs pointed in the direction of St. Clement Vineyards in Napa Valley. We had an asset who could get us some additional intel so I PIN messaged Agent Malbec and within a few hours a courier had delivered a bottle of the St. Clement to our front company.

The bottle was immediately taken to the lab for analysis. The results were clear; It was an almost perfect wine, with fruit from one of the best vineyards in Napa. St. Clement had been on our radar for a couple months. Their winemaker Danielle Cyrot, with a long lineage of European winemakers was making quite a name for herself.

But as we always say, the proof is in the juice… Lab results, research, walks through the vineyards are all nice, but its in the glass that matters… Well, there’s no knelling for St. Clement wines. After tasting it, we were jumping for joy.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Howell Mountain region in Napa County can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Davis Bynum Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Russian Gambit

Operative: Agent Red – with Dr. Pinot

Objective: Attend a Top Secret blind tasting with deep cover asset, Doctor Pinot, and select the best of three Single Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Davis Bynum

Wine Subject: 2005 Widdoes Vineyard Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Gary Patzwald

Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler meritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Davis Bynum’s extended focus on, and love for, the region means that their particular Pinot Noirs are beautifully crafted to reflect the best that the region has to offer. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting noted below for the full intel on this exciting wine

Read Agent Red’s mission report below.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – This lovely wine has the appearance of cherry juice, running from ruby red to slightly pinkish at the edges of the wine. When swirled, the surface of the wine appears tight and springy but settles quickly, leaving behind two levels of evenly-spaced, fat legs that emerge quickly and then streak down the glass

Smell – This wine delivers a layered rush of smoky vanilla, plum, raspberry, strawberry, cocoa, orange peel and horsey earthen oak, followed by an intriguing soft honey and spice

Feel – Lush and soft with a velvety roundness, even at the mid-palate. This wine starts cool and soft and then light medium tannins take hold at the edges of the tongue and inside the cheeks and lips

Taste – Complex and delicious, with bright and rich fruits that mirror those found on the nose. Add to this additional flavors of earthen minerals, soft truffle and soft cocoa powder

Finish – Ultra long, starting slightly tart and dry – then, sweet flavors and a minerality emerges as flavors tail off slowly

Conclusion – Prepare yourself for a real treat! This single vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is truly an elegant delight with balanced aromatics, mouthfeel and flavors. Of the three wines we tasted, this was the clear winner, presenting the best mix of Burgundy and California styled Pinot. This balance makes the wine a sure pleaser for even the most ardent Pinot fan. The wines flavor profile makes it a delight to enjoy on its own, but its acidity lends it to easy food pairing.

Mission Report:

For today’s mission, I called upon Dr. Pinot, a trusted asset with a nose for sleuthing great Pinot Noir.

I was given three single vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs, and I needed to pick the best one for today’s wine offering.

Each of the wines was placed in a paper bag, concealing their true identities. We mixed them up and then proceeded to taste through them. Interestingly, the wines progressed from lighter in stye to darker and more rich. The middle wine – today’s wine – was the clear winner, exhibiting the best all-around balance of the three.

A hearty thanks to Dr. Pinot for helping me to choose today’s wine. What follows is the possibly-true story of Dr. Pinot’s own personal encounter with today’s wine:

Doctor Pinot Goes Kayaking

The Russian River was higher than normal for this time of the year due to the late spring rains, making for a quick float down stream from Healdsburg. Padding over to a flat spot at the base of a steep bank, on the back side of what was now considered by some in the area to be the holy grail of Russian River vineyard sites, Doctor Pinot jumped into the shallows, and secured his kayak on the rocky beach.

Reaching into his boat, opening the hatch to the watertight stowage compartment, he pulled out a bottle from an old friend. A friend who used to cajole him each harvest to come back from his station in some unknown, godforsaken place, to decompress by helping with that year’s winemaking at his new Northwest Sonoma County winery project. His friend, Davis Bynum, journalist turned winemaker was great at shaking hands with the growers in the area, and securing fruit from the best vineyard sites in the Russian River AVA for his famed single vineyard Pinot Noirs.

Doctor Pinot opened his treasured bottle of 2005 Davis Bynum Widdoes Vineyard Pinot Noir, from a 23 acre block planted more than 20 years ago, and farmed since by another friend, Warren Dutton: a site he knew well, located in a very cool section of the Green Valley, on Astascadero Creek, between Graton and Occidental. Planted to the Beringer clone, this dry farmed, cool site consistently produced Pinot Noirs with balance and concentration.

Opening the bottle, and pouring the wine into his Reidel “O” glass, Doctor Pinot tasted and closed his eyes as the wine took him back to his college days working as a vendangeur at Etienne Sauzet’s property in Puligny-Montrachet. This wine had a ‘somewhereness’. This land, this place had made its mark, exhibiting aromas of earth and hillside redwood forest floor, layered with vanilla and smoke, that soon evolved into flavors of orange peel, late summer raspberries, wild strawberries and cocoa. Doctor Pinot, normally quiet, but never at a loss for words, could only think of one at this moment in time … WOW!

Wine Spies AVA Check:

The location of the Russian River Valley AVA can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Peterson Winery Shinbone (Shiraz/Cabernet Blend)

Mission Codename: Pure Brawn

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Comb the Dry Creek Valley, in northern Sonoma County, and locate a big and delicious red blend

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peterson Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Shinbone, Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Blend

Winemakers: Jamie Peterson

Backgrounder: Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is a treasure trove of great wines. While The Wine Spies have been trying to keep Agent Red from acquiring too many wines from the region he persists. And we indulge him, for the wines he has returned with of late are, quite simply, remarkably great. Today’s wine Agent Red visited with Jamie Peterson, second generation winemaker and son of Fred Peterson, the founder and winegrower for the winery. Read about Agent Reds visit with Jamie, following his tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful garnet to ruby red with an inky dark ruby heart. The wine has a tight and springy surface that settles very quickly, leaving behind thick, widely-spaced legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – A lush, warm and full rush of deep aromatic red fruits and black fruits, showing dark blueberry, blackberry, tart cherry, raspberry, shaved dark chocolate, leather and cigar box with freshly turned soil and sweetwoods

Feel – Full-bodied, yet soft and round at front of the palate – then mouth-coating and slightly drying with lush medium tannins that fade slowly to reveal more great flavors

Taste – Deliciously juicy and flavorful, with bright layers of ripe fruits, featuring lush blueberry, blackberry and cherry, followed by orange peel, raspberry, licorice, chocolate dust and mild spice

Finish – A long, rich and dusky finish that ramps down smoothly as it reveals new flavors while it tapers off

Conclusion – This is a very exciting and deeply delicious wine that now hold the top spot as our favorite red blend tasted in 2009. This wine is so good that you I am certain that you will see it nominated for a Wine Spies Intrigue Award, later this year. I am that confident in this superb wine. This boastful wine is big on flavor and big on aromatics and its brightness makes it a perfect food wine. If you are seeking a great and flexible companion to a hearty meal, this wine is an easy match. I can’t wait to try it with BBQ, now that the weather is improving.

Mission Report:

Today’s wine was one of those happened upon discoveries. You know, the sort that you find almost by accident.

I was making a pickup at one of my dead-drops in the Dry Creek Valley. A local asset had left me samples to consider for a future mission. When I got to the spot, I found a small parcel, obviously not large enough to contain wine. I grabbed it and walked toward my car, all the while making certain that I was not being followed.

On opening the parcel, I found a hand-written note inside:

This location compromised. Proceed to [REDACTED] for the package.

I entered the coordinates into my GPS and made my way to the new drop. On arrival, I scanned the area. Not a person in sight. I proceeded on foot and retrieved the package. It was then that I noticed what appeared to be a a winery across the valley.

Sample bottles safely stowed, I decided to investigate.

“Peterson Winery” read the sign on the building. My pulse quickened. Peterson was a name that had come up a few times recently. I had meant to place them under proper surveillance, but had not had the time to schedule a mission. I got out of the car for a closer look.

I scanned the area, making note of all point of ingress and egress. A good spy should be able to make a quick getaway if needed.

“Are you here to taste some wines today?”

I spun around to see a young man, perhaps in his 20’s. I played along.

“Sure,” I said.

And so the tasting began. We tasted through the range of the wines, and when we got to the fabulous Shinbone, I made the decision – right then and there – to reveal myself and procure the wine for our Operatives.

“Listen,” I said. “I can get this on the calendar next week. Can you move that fast?”

The young man, who turned out to be Jamie Peterson, the winemaker and son of founder/owner Fred Peterson, quickly agreed to allow us access to the wine.

I left with samples, and flash forward two days to the present… Viola! This excellent and very exciting wine is available to you today, dear Operative. If you love big, expressive, juicy, delicious and robust wines, this one is certain to please.

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the Peterson Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine

Mission Codename: Trieste? Bordeaux? Napa!

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a distinctive white wine perfect for your spring celebrations.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Matthiasson

Wine Subject: 2007 Napa Valley White Wine

Winemaker: Steve Matthiasson and family

Backgrounder:

Today’s selection from Matthiasson is a distinct and unique blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla and Semillon. Sauvignon Blanc is widely grown world wide, while Ribolla Gialla is most prevalent in north-west Italy and Semillon in Bordeaux. Ribolla Gialla’s history is a long one, with the first documented vines dating back to the 1200s in Italy’s Fruilli (hilly) northwest. Semillon, made famous in France’s Bordeaux region has a history that is much more difficult to determine with records dating back to the 1800s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Clear and pale straw yellow with golden highlights and slightly greenish hues as you pass this wine under the light. Randomly scattered medium-thick legs slide down the edge of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Aromas of bright citrus and lush tropical fruit including tangerine and sweet ripe melon that perfectly compliment the flinty minerality of the Sauvignon Blanc. Nutty notes and floral orange blossom components also emerge and expose the Ribolla in the wine.

Feel – This medium-bodied, dry and good structured white wine is initially bright and crisp with fresh and tart acidity that is almost tingly on the tongue. At mid-palate, a subtle creaminess is revealed that lingers through to the finish.

Taste – Well developed and integrated flavors of bright citrus, ripe fig and fresh tropical fruit with a great flinty mineral undertone. Complex notes of nuts, sweet spice and a hint of herbaceous grass round out this lovely white.

Finish – Long and lingering with exceptional balance between its creaminess and bright fruit flavors, spice and minerality.

Conclusion – The 2007 Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine is an excellent balance between its old-world distinctive fruit and new-world style. Perfect for pairing with food and enjoying in the lengthening days, this wine screams SPRING! Not your run-of-the-mill white, this wine leaves a lasting impression and gets a hearty Wine Spies thumbs-up.

Mission Report:

Agent White reporting: As is customary when there is a great white wine to be reviewed, I was called upon to review today’s wine. I was thrilled when I learned that

HARD INTURRUPT DETECTED. AGENT RED OVERRIDE, PRIORITY CODE ALPHA-ALPHA-9. TRANSMISSION COMMENCES:

Hey, Agent Red here. Sorry to break in here but, trust me, Agent White’s mission report can wait. Read his tasting notes above for the full picture on today’s great white wine from our friends at Matthiasson Wines.

I thought that I would convey a few personal experiences we had recently with the Matthiassons.

I first met Steve Matthiasson and his wine Jill Klein in early March. After a brief surveillance, I decide to approach them directly, rather than go deep undercover. This, because I was very eager to bring you their wine. The 2007 Matthiasson Napa Valley White was already causing quite a stir and I wanted to be sure to procure an allotment before they ran out.

When I arrived at their vineyards, winemaker Steve Matthiasson and his wife, Jill, chatted with me for a few minutes. It was a gorgeous day and the vineyards were absolutely serene. After a while, Steve offered to show me around the vineyards. I happily obliged.

We discussed his various varietals, the soils in his vineyards and even about the wild yeasts that lived in the old barn where the wines were made. We saw the sheep (who were all napping) that aerate and tend the vineyards, and we ate fresh wild veggies that we found along the way.

After I learned of the sustainable practices that Matthiasson employs in making their wines, I mentioned to Steve that our own Agent Sparkle was filming a documentary about sustainable best practices for wineries. Steve, who holds a Master’s in Viticulture and Pest Management from UC Davis, quickly told me that he literally wrote the book on sustainability.

The Wine Institute/CAWG Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices is the book on sustainability in the wine industry. Steve Matthiasson wrote the entire viticulture section. He was a natural for the documentary.

Shot nearly two weeks later, Agent Sparkle recently reported to me that the interview that she shot with Steve was ‘brilliant’. Here at Wine Spies H.Q., we are all eager to see the documentary. Having seen some of the raw footage, I can tell you that she has managed to wrangle together some of the top people within the industry. Steve, himself, is right up at the top. His knowledge, passion and experience make him not only a hero to the industry, but also one great winemaker!

A special Thanks! to Jill and Steve for spending so much quality time with us. We are proud to know you – and proud to be sharing your great wine with our Operatives today!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Matthiasson’s vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Domaine Mathieu Cuvée Marquis Anselme Mathieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Mission Codename: 400 Years of History… 125 Years of Vines

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of a unique Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Mathieu

Wine Subject: 2004 Cuvée Marquis Anselme Mathieu

Winemaker: Andre Mathieu

Backgrounder:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) is among this spy’s favorite Rhone wines. With each wine being a distinct blend of up to 13 different varietals (usually lead off with Grenache, France’s work-horse grape, with the trend leading to more Syrah and Mourvedre based blends). The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape dates back to the 14th century during the time of the dual papacy.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes in two distinct styles, the more traditional ’Old World’ (like this one) are dark, rich and spicy with firm tannins that lend these wines to cellaring; and the more contemporary fruit-forward style more reminiscent of New World wines.

This wine is 90% Grenache and made from vines that are over 125 years old, making this a truly unique old-world and old-vine classic. The 2004 vintage is just starting to fully develop and will continue to improve for years to come.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Clear dark garnet-red with pink and orange hues along the edges. When swirled, this wine appears slightly more viscous and slow thin legs grace the sides of the glass.

Smell – Well developed, medium in intensity and classically old-world in style, this wine’s bouquet leads off with spice, roasted herbs and floral lavender over a base of tart black fruit including black-cherry. Earthy notes and hints of wild fennel also emerge as you explore this wine’s deeply complex nose.

Feel – Full-bodied, smooth and dry and then this wine’s distinct minerality and spice hits. Fine grained but firm tannins and moderate acidity frame the warm feel and flavors.

Taste – Rich flavors of dark fruit including tart blackberry, black-cherry and hint of almost ripe plum that are well integrated with a complex array of dried herbs, floral lavender, wild fennel, toasted oak and spicy white pepper.

Finish – Medium long in length with lingering notes of its spicy pepper, fennel and tart fruit.

Conclusion – The 2004 Cuvée Marquis Anselme Mathieu is truly a unique and expressive old-world Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Spicy and rich, complex but well developed and integrated, this wine is the epitome of classic style. The Grenache in this wine (90%) comes from vines that are over 125 years old and the resulting wine has that distinctive old-vine character about it. This wine, with its earthy and spicy qualities is perfect for pairing with decadent raw-milk cheeses. We recommend letting this wine breathe for a little while to fully expose its complex nature.

Mission Report:

Dateline: July 18, 2008.

Location: Nimes, France, near the Rhône Valley

Agent Terroir had done an exceptional job of getting me to see a few of the great mountain finishes on this year’s Tour de France. After three spectacular days in the Pyrenees. We had loosely followed the tour through the South. Next stop the Alps, but we still had a few days and with the tour stopping in the historic town of Nimes, famous for its Roman vestiges, the Maison Carrée (Square House temple), Magne Tower, and Pont du Gard bridge it seemed like a goo point to take stock in our journey.

Tomorrow’s stage would take us to Digne-les-Bains, but now, only a few miles from the great wine village of Châteauneuf du Pape (CDP) I decided to make a short visit.

When I mentioned my intentions to Agent Terroir his eyes grew big and there was a noticeable feeling of excitement in his face. He had connections in Châteauneuf du Pape. One in particular, the historic Mathieu family with their century old vineyards in Châteauneuf du Pape. Domaine Mathieu has been in making wine here for over 400 years.

I was most interested in special Cuvée CDPs. They are among the most unique and varied, and yet surprisingly accessible wines of the southern Rhône. A quick drive and we had arrived at Domaine Mathieu where we were immediately greeted by Andre Mathieu, the winemaker. Before we knew it we were in the tasting room, surrounded by a dozen glasses each, tasting a great selection. Oh, how this job is tough…

The best of which was a flight of their 2004 Cuvée Marquis Anselme Mathieu. For those unfamiliar with these great wines, they can be any permutation of up to 13 different varietals, but are mostly lead off with the Rhône’s dominant grape, Grenache. In this case, Domaine Mathieu CDP is mostly Grenache, from vines originally planted in 1890 with Syrah and Mourvedre along with the other approved varietals and is made in the traditional old-world style.

If you love rich, full-bodied, dark and spicy wines, be sure to pick up a few bottles of this extremely limited exclusive wine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Domaine Mathieu in Courthézon (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Bello Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Ciao, Bello!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a superior Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley’s Bello Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Bello Family Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Aaron Pott

Backgrounder:

The fruit for this exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Napa Valley’s Ruthorford and Mt. Veeder districts. This mountain fruit, grown in porous volcanic soil that drains well with more exposure to sunlight results in berries that are more concentrated in both flavor and intensity. Today’s wine is a superb example of the quality which is possible within these very special regions. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting notes below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A dark garnet with concentrated color out to its deep ruby edges, with a dark inky core of black plum. The wine shows as springy when swirled, and leaves long and slender legs that take a long while to appear before they move slowly down the glass

Smell -Dusky blackberry leads the way, followed by deep and dark aromatic stonefruit, spice, mild tobacco, soft mocha and softest smoked meats. This is complimented by mild toasted cedar and soft oak

Feel – Smooth, round and velvety on entry, then slightly drying and fine, medium-firm tannins take hold at the edges of the mouth. This full-bodied wine is well structured with good acidity a great feel that becomes even smoother as it opens up

Taste – An initial attack of black fruit of plum, overripe blackberry, and smoky blueberry with raspberry. These dark flavors are tempered against brighter raspberry and red currant

Finish – This supple wine finishes long and smooth with lavish layers of dark fruit that tail off, one by one, leaving a mouthwatering dryness and dried black fruit flavors that linger

Conclusion – A deep , big and serious wine to be sure! This is classic Napa Cab, in that it is chewy, extracted, rich and delicious, but this wine also possesses a suppleness and a brightness that makes it a pleasure to sip on its own – or enjoy with a great meal. We are in love with high-elevation Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and this wine reinforces this feeling. Present here are all the things we appreciate in a Napa Cab. We recommend decanting this wine for best results, and we also suggest that if you are purchasing this wine to enjoy now, that you also buy a few bottles to lay down for a few years. We have the feeling that the patient will be well rewarded.

Mission Report:

Agent White is fond of telling me that success breed more success. Now that The Wine Spies is nearly 20 months old, I hold this aphorism as axiomatic.

Recently, I found myself reflecting on our organization, and on all of the hard work and tribulations we have experienced. The work has been hard, but so very rewarding. This line of thinking led me to ponder the nature of success. It also led me to thinking about success in winemaking.

How much of success is luck? Or good karma? Does success really require complete sacrifice, or does it come to those who find real balance in life? In winemaking, is is creating the perfect wine, or selling out each vintage? How is success measured in life and in winemaking?

Contemplating the phrase, Success breeds more success, I found myself speaking it out loud. A quiet buzz-Beep told my that my Spy Phone had picked up my words, and had scanned our W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) databases and had returned a result.

I lifted the phone from my desk. The screen read:

Subject: Bello Family Vineyards, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon. Target Value: High. Directive: Proceed to procure immediately

A quick scan of our records on Bello revealed that the family had risen to great success in commercial construction, before entering into the wine trade. Additional data suggested that Bello Cabernet Sauvignon was of superb quality.

I decided right then to hop into the car and head over to Bello.

The estate property and the winery are gorgeous. On arrival, I had the distinct feeling that I was in the French countryside. Moreover, I felt like I was in a James Bond film – in the French countryside. The estate would be a perfect place to shoot a great Bond flick.

If the property was beautiful, the wines were more so. No wonder, either, for Bello has assembled a world-class team to craft its wines. I was stunned to learn that Bello partnered with David Abreu to manage its vineyards. Wine Spectator Magazine called David Abreu, “Napa Valley’s most sought-after vineyard consultant”. He’s managed vineyards for some the Valley’s most prestigious wineries, including Araujo, Bryant, Grace, Viader and Harlan Estate.

Bello’s winemaker, Aaron Pott, is another Napa Valley icon. During his distinguished career, Aaron has made wines for Beringer, Newton, Quintessa Estate, Blackbird Vineyards, Seven Stones Winery, and Fisher Vineyards, where his Cabernet Sauvignons were always his most stand-out creations. Educated at U.C. Davis, Arron spent several years in France, working in several wineries, including Château La Tour Figeac, where he was head of winemaking.

With such a successful team assembled, it seems impossible that this winery could produce anything but stellar wines. One needs only sample today’s offering to know that success does, indeed, breed more success!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Bello Family Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.