2006 Mounts Family Winery Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: The Purple Tongued Devil

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate the Mounts Family winery, and procure their most popular wine, their delicious estate Petite Sirah

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Mounts Family Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Petite Sirah

Winemaker: David Mounts

Backgrounder:

The Mounts family grows a variety of grapes on their hillside estate in Sonoma County’s beautiful Dry Creek Valley. This is an area best known for producing rather incredible Petite Sirah. Agent Red recently paid the Mounts Family a visit on their estate vineyards, where they tasted their wines and learned about the family’s long history of farming, grape growing and winemaking in the valley. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy with an inky purple-black heart, a heavy and tight looking surface, dark edges and tightly-spaced legs that are extra slow to emerge – before they streak down the glass

Smell – A big rush of juicy ripe blackberry leads the way, followed quickly by blueberry, mushroom, subtle smoked meats, soft oak and a hint of creme brulee

Feel – Round at the very tip of the tongue, with a mid-palate grippy dryness that leads to a bright and coating all-over-mouth bigness, with chewy medium to big tannins.

Taste – Richly layered and highly concentrated flavors of dark stonefruit, jammy roasted blackberry and blueberry, cassis, dark cherry and sweet forest floor

Finish – Dry and long with flavors that begins with slightly tart, and then go sweet as flavors linger for a long time

Conclusion – This is a very delicious Petite with great aromatics and a unique feel that is weighty, without being syrupy. Decant for 30 minutes or more, and you will be rewarded with greater softness and more natural flavors. This is a big and chewy wine that will stain your tongue purple on first sip, and I guarantee any Petite lover that this wine is a sure winner. As for pairing ability, contrary the perception that Petite Sirah too easily overpowers most foods, this wine maintains enough acidity to make it a great mealtime companion. We paired this wine with a fresh tomato soup. Find the recipe below, and enjoy this wonderful wine.

Mission Report:

What follows is a recap of our initial mission to Mounts Family Winery, wherein we refer to the Mounts Zinfandel which we featured last month. While that was an excellent wine, we like their Petite Sirah even better

It was a warm and beautiful morning. The temperature was close to 70 degrees and the sky was a perfect clear blue. It was a typical spring morning in the Dry Creek Valley. If only it was Spring! It was, in fact, the beginning of January where, even here in California, we should be experiencing cooler temps – and our share of vine-sustaining rains!

Agent Syrah was with me on another training mission. For this one, he led the mission to Mounts Family Winery. I had given Agent Syrah the directive of locating a superb California Zinfandel. I gave him free reign, allowing him to choose the region and winery.

Almost immediately, he came up with a winery.

“What do you have,” I asked.

“Mounts. 06. Estate Zin. DCV. Intel suggests a classic DCV, ripe, lush, balanced. 400 cases.”

“Very good. Next steps?”

“I would suggest a direct infiltration. No extended surveillance. Proceed immediately.”

With that, we made our way to mounts.

After a drive through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley, we found ourselves at the bottom of a long uphill driveway. the drive led through pristine hillside vineyards, eventually leading us to the winery at the crest of the hill.

As we parked, a woman approached. Agent Syrh said, “Lana Mounts. General Manager and wife of David Mounts, the winemaker.”

If I was not already impressed, I was now. Agent Syrah was shaping up to be a fine Wine Spy.

Agent Syrah took command, introducing Lana to me as though he already knew her, and I was someone she needed to know. He cut right to the chase, explaining that we had been investigating her winery – and that we were here to evaluate and – if we loved their wines – appropriate Mounts Family wines for our Operatives.

Lana took us to here wine cave and we were soon joined by her husband, David Mounts. We tasted through their wines and we were very impressed. I gave Agent Syrah the signal and he quickly negotiated for a quantity of today’s excellent Mounts Family Estate Zinfandel.

If you ever find yourself in the Dry Creek Valley, stop in to Mounts for a tasting. The vineyards are beautiful, the people a pleasure to hang out with – and the wines are really wonderful.

Finally, be sure to keep an eye out for Agent Syrah’s future missions. I have a feeling that this young spy is destined for greatness.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mounts Family Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Gainey Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Capital Gainey

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Select the third and final delicious Pinot Noir for our exclusive Twitter Taste Live event.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: The Gainey Vineyard

Wine Subject: 2006 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Kirby Anderson & Jon Engelskirger

Backgrounder:

The Sta. Rita Hills AVA, located within Santa Barbara County and almost entirely in the Santa Ynez Valley was established in 2001 and is considered one of California’s best regions for growing the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay due to its cooler climate. The AVA’s weather is heavily influenced by cool coastal breezes and persistent Pacific fog. Just less than 200 acres in the AVA are under vine. Interestingly, the name of the appellation was changed from Santa Rita Hills to Sta. Rita Hills so as to not conflict with Chilean powerhouse winery Vina Santa Rita.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy in color with exceptional and clarity. Garnet to pinkish edges and slow thin legs ring the glass.

Smell – Aromas of ripe red cherries and exotic spices lead off with hints of earthiness and floral violets. a tiny touch of citrus zest tanginess and mint leaves also emerge as you explore this wine further.

Feel – Medium-bodied, supple and smooth with medium tannins and good, but not overly bright acidity resulting in well-structured but round wine.

Taste – Concentrated flavors of ripe red cherry along with other red fruits and the same exotic spice found on the nose are evenly layered over earthy notes and a touch of oak.

Finish – Clean and medium long in length with lingering flavors of cherry, oak and spice.

Conclusion – Gainey’s 2006 Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir is an exceptional example of why the Santa Ynez Valley is famous for its Burgundian varietals and more specifically its Pinot Noir. Some may blame Hollywood for this fame, but when tasting this wine, you’ll agree that its great vineyard that produces great fruit, a dedication to quality and careful winemaking and most importantly, allowing the wine show its true character.

Mission Report:

”SLEEPER ‘ELEVAGE’ ACTIVATED _#TTL PRIORITY ALPHA 7 ~ PROCEED TO RALLY POINT theta.”

That was the message I received on my W.I.N.E (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) smartphone. It was enough to jolt me out of my Pinot Noir-educed daydream about one day retiring to my own Pinot vineyard.

I gesture-swiped my smartphone, which purr-beeped my successful activation gesture. I lifted the phone to my ear and spoke, “Agent Red with an Alpha 7. I have a Sleeper activation and request immediate PN-asset backup at rally point theta.”

After two seconds I heard the acknowledgment chime and I swiped the phone to securelock.

Agent White burst into the room, out of breath.

Between pants, he said, “This is happening way earlier than anticipated. What happened?”

“Keep your cool, White. You know how good Agent Elevage is. I’m not surprised that she succeeded in her mission. I am headed to theta now. All PN-a’s have been dispatched as well. Awaiting individual acknowledgments but I expect them all to be there. You stay here at HQ and await direction.”

He started to argue with me, but I simply held up my hand as I walked briskly from the room. I love telling Agent White what to do, and since Elevage was my sleeper, I made the rules on this mission.

While en route to theta, I received the individual notifications from my Pinot Noir Assets, themselves a group of world-renowned PN experts, some of them Agents from around the valley – and around the country. They have been waiting for this moment, and I expect all of them to be there.

On arrival, Agent Elevage greeted me in the lobby of the secret location. We exchanged the safe phrase. Both of us satisfied that all was in order, Elevage escorted me into the room where our secret tasting was to be conducted. There, on the long table, were place settings for ten people. Each setting had 7 Pinot Noirs poured in equal measure into fine burgundy glasses. Each glass sat on a printed letter between A and F. In the center of the table, 7 bottles were wrapped in brown paper, each with a corresponding letter.

“Well done, Agent Elevage. I know that this deep cover mission has been long and perilous. You are to be commended for your efforts.”

Agent Elevage just gave a humble nod and then escorted me to my seat. Gradually, the rest of our tasting panel arrived. Our collective mission: Evaluate the 7 Pinot Noirs that Agent Elevage has procured – and choose the best for our historic online tasting.

Once everyone was convened, the tasting quickly commenced. The room was hushed at first, as everyone sniffed, swirled, sipped and spit. The only other sounds were those of pens on paper or keys clattering on laptops. These people were serious about their Pinot Noir.

When everyone was finished with their evaluation, spirited conversation took place as each of us listed our top three winners. One of our agents tabulated the results, and three clear winners emerged; Today’s 2006 Gainey Vineyards Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2007 was declared our favorite Santa Barbara Pinot Noir in the tasting.

With that, Agent Elevage sprang up and dashed from the room. Over her shoulder she shouted, “I’m off to procure the remaining cases! There are only a handful left so…”

And she was gone, leaving the rest of us to share our thoughts on the wine.

Here is a detailed tasting experience from one of our esteemed, Dr. Pinot:

Doctor Pinot says:

Doctor Pinot had recently retired from his job as station chief in a country, that was now in the recesses of his memory, fatigued from the politics of politics; and, now he was back home in the Santa Ynez Valley. He was sitting at his old table, in the main dining room of the Buellton Hitching Post, watching Harry in the open kitchen, behind the glass, expertly turn the steaks, searing on the grill above the red oak fire. He was glad that this was off-season, and that the ‘Sideways’ tourist crowds were at home sitting on their wallets. The now famous winemakers had returned to reclaim what was once their locals’ joint: a place where they could talk over the crush; the newest winemaking protocols; and, their recent misadventures, over glasses of Pinot.

Harry, who had, one late night, named his old friend ‘Dr. Pinot’, carried out the Smoked Prime Rib of Pork, and placed it on the table, while offering to pour a glass of 2006 Gainey Pinot Noir from a sample bottle that winemaker Kirby Anderson had tasted with the wait staff at today’s pre-meal line-up. On the first taste, he knew that he was home. That he had returned to Pinot central; the heartland, where Santa Barbara Pinot was first crushed in memorable ‘60’s parties way up on High Mountain Road. The best sites were now planted in the low hills above the Santa Ynez River, above Hwy. 246, in the cool western end of the Valley, across 101 towards the Pacific, the site of Gainey’s Adam’s Ranch.

Putting the glass of the 2006 Gainey Pinot Noir up to his nose, aromas of Linn Farms olallieberries, Bing Cherries, Prune d’Argent plums, remote backwoods campfires, and baker’s vanilla, resulted in an olfactory neuron induced smile. The focused flavors of the bright, ripe, dark red fruit, the Asain spice notes, and the supple tannins and impeccable structure, completed the seduction. This would be Dr. Pinot’s new house wine, for his new life, in his new home.”

To learn more about Doctor Pinot, follow his Top Secret Twitter Stream.

The Wine Spies would like to offer a hearty thank you to all of our panelists, even those whose cover we cannot blow, but who provided their Pinot expertise and time for our blind tasting!

TWITTER TASTE LIVE - LIVE TASTING ALERT!

Our LIVE online tasting will take place on March 14th. Detailed instructions on how you can participate will be included with your order. Just be sure to keep at least one bottle on hand. It’ll be hard, but try!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of The Gainey Vineyard and tasting room can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Stonegate Winery Reserve Petit Verdot

Mission Codename: Kingdom’s Gate

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a exceptional varietal Petit Verdot for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Stonegate Winery

Wine Subject: 2004 Reserve Petit Verdot

Winemaker:

Backgrounder:

Petit Verdot is perhaps most famous as a secondary blending grape for the great wines of Bordeaux. Its intrinsic value is that it adds balance, mid palate structure and acidity to its brethren. When made into a purely varietal wine, the late ripening Petit Verdot presents its own unique quality and character with wines of exceptional aroma, structure and flavor. Today’s Petit Verdot is grown just east of Napa Valley’s prestigious Rutherford AVA.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark deep purple with a slightly inky dark core with blue and garnet hues along the edges. Slow medium thin legs cling to the edge of the glass when swirled showing a heavier consistency

Smell – Medium intensity with aromas of dusty ripe wild raspberry and blackberry layered over a touch of licorice. Floral violets, smoke and new oak round out the well developed nose of this wine.

Feel – The attack of this medium to full-bodied wine is smooth and dry with plush but firm tannins and balanced acidity that is sustained through to the back of the palate.

Taste – Round and very pleasant in its flavors with great ripe raspberry and blackberry, a distinct new oak quality, soft and not overpowering licorice, floral violet notes and a hint of spice and leather.

Finish – Clean with exceptional length, this wine’s structure and flavors linger and invite further exploration, and perhaps more importantly another sip!

Conclusion – The 2004 Reserve Petit Verdot is truly an exceptional expression of this often overlooked grape. Great aromas and flavors marked by both elegance and finesse but also the structure to stand up as a great food pairing wine.

Mission Report:

For nearly 36 years, Stonegate Winery has been a Napa Valley legend, known for producing the finest estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot. While it led the charge in the early 1970s, today the winery is experiencing a resurgence. The exact details are highly classified, however.

Unless you have double top secret clearance, you won’t be able to read today’s complete mission report. Suffice it to say, all will be revealed – in time.

For now, you may content yourself with today’s exceptional 2004 Reserve Petit Verdot, a wine of wonderful balance, delicious flavors and layers of rich aromatics.

How were we able to procure an allotment of this incredible and mysterious wine? We could tell you, but, you know…

Meanwhile, please stay tuned, and expect another great Stonegate wine – and the full skinny on this mysterious winery – in the near future! And, take it from me, you do NOT want to miss out on today’s great selection. Its that amazing.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Napa Valley’s Stonegate Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Schug Carneros Estate Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: The Time Travelers Wine

Operative: Agent Red and Agent Sparkle

Objective: Visit with legendary Winemaster, Walter Schug, and together, hand select a special wine for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Schug Carneros Estate

Wine Subject: 2003 Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Mike Cox and Walter Schug

Backgrounder: To most wine aficionados, winemaster Walter Schug needs no introduction. Mr. Schug’s pioneering work with Joesph Phelps and Insignia is the stuff of wine legend. Today, Walter Schug’s own winery, Schug Carneros Estate, makes wines that are as good or better, but made for folks like you and us Wine Spies. Do Schug wines really stand up to the $200 per bottle for an Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon? Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and intriguing mission report befow for the full story

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet with a heart of inky dark ruby. Slightly murky through the middle with deep concentration of color maintained all the way out to the edges of the glass. When swirled, the surface of this wine settles – but the center spins and spins, finally leaving behind legs of mixed size and spacing

Smell – Deeply aromatic and perfumy with bright blueberry, dark cherry, violets and cassis, tempered against licorice, mild spice, soft oak and dark chocolate

Feel – Initially wet and light at the front of the palate, then medium to full-bodied, drying and lush with mouth-coating and supple medium tannins that gradually give way to follow-on flavors

Taste – A balanced palate of dark mixed berries, cassis and cherry – against natural cola, Italian salt licorice and soft oak

Finish – An long and clean finish that eases downward slowly and smoothly, while revealing new flavors – with pronounced cherry – as flavors tapers off

Conclusion – Agent Sparkle and me reviewed this wine together. One sip had both of us swooning over it! With a rich boldness of dark flavor that is held in check by lighter fruits and earthen goodness, this wine is a beautifully balanced treat. This is a beautiful wine that is built for maximum enjoyment and easy drinking, without sacrificing any complexity or character. Mr. Schug’s lifetime of experience absolutely shines through in this superb Cabernet Sauvignon – a wine that gives its Napa rivals a true run for their money. And, speaking of money, given the choice between this wine and a bottle of Insignia, I’ll take this one – and still have enough money to buy several more bottles of today’s great wine

Mission Report:

I had the incredible great fortune to meet with one of the wine industry’s most respected and renowned wine craftsmen in California wine history.

Walter Schug, owner and winemaster at Schug Carneros Estate, was born into wine in Germany in 1936, where his father was winemaker for one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir Producers.

As a young manm Walter worked throughout Europe, honing his craft. In 1966 Julio Gallo asked Walter to oversee all grapegrowing and quality control for the company. Seven years later, after Walter’s reputation had grown, Joseph Phelps asked Walter to become Phelps’ winemaker at his new Napa Valley winery.

Walter helped to create the Insignia label and some of the finest and most sought after Bordeaux-style blends in the country. Walter crafted wines that set the high water mark for excellence in winemaking.

To this day, Walter Schug’s early influence on the industry lives on, with wineries across California and around the world emulating his winemaking style.

With Phelps, Walter Schug’s goal was to make the best Bordeaux-style blend possible. Today, Walter Schug’s philosophy remains largely unchanged. There is one big difference, however; Where a bottle of Insignia may cost you $200 or more, a Schug wine of comparable quality with cost you less than $60.

On arriving at the Schug winery last week, I am greeted by Axel Schug, Director of Marketing for the winery and the son of Walter Schug. Axel, with whom I had met previously, introduces me to his father, and then escorts me through the bowels of the winery, to a tasting room buried in a wine cave. The long table the stretches down the tunnel is surrounded on both sides by seemingly every vintage from Schug’s history.

As I am escorted to my seat, I notice several magnums of Insignia wine and I spot one bottle in a special wooden display. Walter Schug sees me looking at it and he takes it from the display and shows it to me. The bottle is from Joseph Phelps himself, and a touching tribute to Walter Schug, from Phelps, is engraved on the back.

What follows is a partial transcript of our conversation:

AGENT RED: Mr. Schug, thank you so much for making yourself available today. It is an honor to meet you!

WALTER SCHUG: Welcome, Agent Red.

AGENT RED: Let me first say that your wines blow me away. The winery is beautiful as well. I love Carneros and wines from the region. You are really a pioneer of the region. When it came time to build your own winery, how did you come to settle here?

WALTER SCHUG: When I was with Gallo, I sourced fruit from Carneros. I recognized the region as having great potential for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Given my passion for Pinot, settling in Carneros was a natural.

AGENT RED: And, when you did settle, you produced a fair amount of Chardonnay, did you not?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, and it was excellent, too. It still is. Back then, Chardonnay subsidized my passion for Pinot Noir! It allowed me to perfect Pinot here.

AGENT RED: This Cabernet Sauvignon we are drinking [today’s 2003 Heritage CS] is incredible. How has your philosophy changed from your Insignia days?

WALTER SCHUG: Very little. The goal now, as it was with Phelps back then, is to create the very best wine that we possibly can. And, to do so without recipe or formula.

AGENT RED: Ahh. Whereas I have heard that Insignia is more formulaic in its approach to winemaking today. Instead, your proportions or even fruit sources may change a good deal – if it means making wines that are that much better. Am I correct?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, this is true. This Cabernet is streamlined and far more European in character. This is a wine that has elegance, delicacy, finesse – this is what I strive for in all of my wines!

AGENT RED: Again, this is a great wine and I am sure that our Operatives will love it. I also look forward to bringing them your Pinot Noir, during a future mission.

WALTER SCHUG: If they appreciate wines that are made for the best enjoyment, they will love this wine. In the end this wine is not made by going to the vineyard and knowing what you are going to get. Rather, it is the result of meticulous blending of wines made from the best fruit. Again, it is my mission to create wines that are the best expressions of place. It is my mission to make wines that are to be enjoyed.

AGENT RED: Mission accomplished, Mr. Schug, Mission accomplished!

WALTER SCHUG: Thank you, Agent Red.

We talked a great deal about Walter Schug’s history and his influence and impact on the wine industry. While I was certainly impressed by his incredible history, I must say that what impressed me the most – what seemed to matter to me the most – was what the Schug Carneros Estate winery was doing today. Today, Schug is crafting remarkably beautiful wines that are a true delight to drink and enjoy!

Pairing Recommendation:

ROASTED SALMON FILLET WITH CRISPY MEDITERRANEAN TOPPING

6 six ounce salmon fillets
1/4 cup melted butter
2 cups fine toasted bread crumbs
1/2 cup pureed roasted red bell peppers
2 Tb. finely chopped sun dried tomatoes
2 Tb. finely chopped kalamata olives
1 tsp. each: finely chopped fresh rosemary, thyme, parsley and basil
1/3 cup chopped cooked bacon
2 Tb. minced onion
Cabernet Sauce (recipe below)

Place a piece of aluminum foil onto a baking sheet. Arrange salmon fillets onto foil, skin side down. Now mix all remaining ingredients together in a large bowl. Keep mixing until topping is evenly distributed and clings together when a handful is squeezed together. (If mixture is too dry, try adding a little more melted butter. Add more bread crumbs if too wet.) Now squeeze a small amount of topping in your hand and place it on top of a piece of salmon. Add more topping until the top of the fillet is completely covered with about 1/3 of an inch of topping mix. Cover remaining pieces of salmon the same way. Place salmon fillets in a preheated 425 degrees F oven for approximately 15 minutes or until fillets are cooked. With a spatula lift each piece of fish from the foil (the skin should stick to the foil) and place onto a hot serving plate. Drizzle a spoonful of sauce over each piece and serve immediately. Serves 6 delightfully when paired with Schug Cabernet Sauvignon!

Cabernet Sauce

1/2 cup beef stock
1/2 cup Schug Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon
1 Tb. butter
salt and pepper, to taste
1 Tb. chopped fresh rosemary

In a small saucepan, bring stock and red wine to a boil. Lower heat and reduce volume by two-thirds. Whisk in butter, salt and pepper and chopped rosemary. Use within 30 minutes or butter will separate.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the gorgeous Schug Estate winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2004 Jana Wines Jana Cathedral Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend

Mission Codename: Labor of Love

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a Unique Napa Valley Bordeaux Style Blend

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Jana Wines (Scott Harvey Wines)

Wine Subject: 2004 Cathedral Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend

Winemaker: Richard Peterson

Backgrounder:

The majority of the grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon) for this wine come from the Martin Vineyard in the Coombsville region of Napa Valley. Located in the southeastern corner of the Valley and the proposed Tolocay AVA overlaps a portion of the region. The region is ideal for growing red Bordeaux varietals due to its cooler climate, rolling hills and its soil witch is a mix of volcanic ash and rocky river gravel. These conditions are ideal for slower-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon. Previously farm and ranch property, grapes have been growing the Coombsville only more recently.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and dark purple with good clarity and garnet hued-edges with slight burnt-orange and pick tints. Slow fat legs indicating good viscosity cling to the edges of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Medium in intensity with aromas of ripe and sweet black-cherry and fresh blackberry. Hints of licorice, toasted oak, floral violets and a touch of smoke round out the very pleasant nose.

Feel – A smooth and dry attack, this round medium-bodied blend has medium-firm, but fine well structured tannins and balanced acidity.

Taste – Balanced and well integrated flavors of ripe and fresh black cherry, soft toasted oak and touches of licorice that leads into other tangy black and red fruits and a touch of fresh herbs, smoke, mocha and spice.

Finish -Clean and long with lingering ripe fruit, toasted oak and floral violets.

Conclusion – The 2004 Cathedral has a very European quality about it. Lower in alcohol with subtle and soft aromas and flavors but still has its Napa Valley roots. Plush and round, elegant with great finesse, this predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (76%; 13% Petit Verdot and 11% Cabernet Franc) blend is perfect for when you want a wine that has all the flavors of a bold Napa red without the punch.

Mission Report:

It was supposed to be a weekend get-away. Figuring that Agent Blush and I could escape from ops and, pardon the pun, but fly ‘under the radar’ for a day or two. The plan was to fly out to Sedona, Arizona and enjoy a couple days of fresh air, some casual hikes and most importantly time away from the demands of work (ok, so we drink wine for a living, but its still a lot of work).

For those who haven’t been, Sedona is a lovely small town in central Arizona famous for its red sandstone formations and tranquil beauty. Flying it is also a treat as the airport sits atop a bluff above town.

All was going swimmingly until dinner that night. We sat down at the lodge and had started to review the wine list. Just then, a man in a Native American leather jacket, cowboy hat and dark sun glasses took the carte and and said ”local legend demands you search for the Cathedral”. Odd, I thought, but as he walked away with the wine list, the sommelier dropped by and indicated his approval of our non-choice, saying only ”excellent selection, Mr… White”.

Agent Blush, seeing my concern, immediately said, ”I didn’t say anything. I know not to blow our cover.” I believed her, but was concerned since nobody was supposed to know about our little trip. The somm returned with the wine and presented us with a bottle of 2004 Jana Cathedral Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend. He poured a little in Blush’s glass and waited for her to nod her head, which she did with a big smile. After filling our glasses and leaving the bottle on the table, he simply said ”The Harvey’s send their regards for a romantic weekend sir, enjoy”.

Cathedral Rock, Sedona, Arizona
Coutresy of VisitSedonaSoon.com

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Jana Wines and Scott Harvey Wines can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Chateau Montus Madiran AOC

Mission Codename: Drinking with a Legend

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an allocation of the legendary Madiran from Chateau Montus

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Chateau Montus

Wine Subject: 2005 Madiran AOC

Winemaker: Alain Brumont

Backgrounder:

Perhaps the most famous appellation in the southwest of France, Madiran is home to one of France’s most famous winemakers, Alain Brumont. It is his genius that has tamed the expressive and often overpowering Tannat into a wine that rivals its northern neighbors from Bordeaux. This AOC is located in the foothills of the Pyrenees (Basque country) near the town of Pau. Madiran AOC wines must be at least 40% Tannat with the addition of a small portion of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Fer. In some occasions, and although its contrary to the AOC’s formal regulations, some of these wines are 100% Tannat. Today’s selection is 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple and almost black with a dark thick and inky core. When swirled the intensity of the color clings to the edge of the glass and slowly forms into thin legs deep with color.

Smell – Bold and intense with aromas of both raspberries and blackberries with an earthy undertone. Components of wild fennel, toasted oak, leather and orange zest and a tiny hint of lavender round out the complex and deep bouquet.

Feel – Rich and concentrated and definitely masculine on the attack, but also shows finesse with firm but fine tannins, excellent acidity and minerality. Almost chewy, this wine sticks to the palate, the sides of your mouth and lingers long through to the finish.

Taste – Ripe blackberry, dark cherry and raspberry that are well integrated with flavors of new oak, a hint of clove spice, smoke and tobacco and lingering flavors reminiscent of this wine’s nose.

Finish – Extraordinarily long with great fruit, oak and spice. The finish of this wine is perhaps most dominated by its tannic structure and minerality that just keeps going and going.

Conclusion – The 2005 Chateau Montus Madiran lives up to its legend and is a focused wine that truly expresses not only the power of the Tannat but also its elegance and finesse. Tasting this wine, you will be hit with the realization that you are drinking a wine that is the culmination of lifetime of a passion by winemaker Alain Brumont. This is the kind of wine that will accompany even the boldest and richest of foods including roast duck, Merguez (Moroccan) sausage or just a simple and perfectly grilled rib-eye steak.

This wine will cellar for upwards of 15 years and we recommend decanting it for immediate enjoyment.

Mission Report:

It was a couple years back that I originally tasted the wines from legendary winemaker Alain Brumont. Agent Terroir was escorting me through some of France’s best vineyards as we also enjoyed the Tour de France. If you are a fan of the race, it is perhaps one of the most magnificent displays of athletic ability through the largest and most beautiful of ‘stadiums’, the entirety of the country.

As someone who has followed the race for nearly two decades my personal favorite are the mountain stages of in the Pyrenees and the Alps. But its the Pyrenees that brings out the true excitement. Tens of thousands of mostly Basque cycling fans line the narrow one lane mountain roads cheering on their countrymen to the prestigious stage wins in the most difficult of mountain climbs.

It was one of those stages that started in the village of Pau . We arrived in the evening before the start start and Agent Terroir wanted to take me on a very special vineyard trip. We would head north for a short drive to the appellation most famous of its bold, tannic and expressive Tannat and once there we would taste the wines of famed winemaker Alain Brumont. The vineyards, steep hillsides clay and ancient Pyrenees stone and gravel soil. This coupled with an aspect and southern exposure ensure maximum sunshine. Add to that a grape that many consider an indomitable force with another indomitable force in winemaking and you’re starting to get the idea about today’s unique selection.

The 2005 Chateau Montus Madiran AOC is one of those very special wines. Certainly not a wine for everyone, but if you are a fan of big bold expressive reds that have a ton of character then this is a wine for you.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Madrian AOC in the southwest of France can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Stark Wine Dry Creek Valley Syrah

Mission Codename: The old fashioned way

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Respond to reports that Stark Wine, in California’s Dry Creek Valley, has produced a remarkable Syrah

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Stark Wine

Wine Subject: 2005 Syrah – Teldeschi & Unti Vineyard

Winemaker: Christian Stark

Backgrounder:

The popularity of Syrah is undeniable. Big and bold in flavor and texture, it packs a concentrated punch of flavor that many people love. This Rhone varietal, although many believe that the grape originated in the Persia region, is 100% French in lineage. The Syrah grape is directly descendant from the Monduese Blanche and Dureza varietals and is grown worldwide with great success. Today’s delightful Syrah is a bold delight with original flavors, deep aromatics and a ultra-fine mouth feel. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and interesting mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby with a dark garnet heart. The wine also has a pronounced snappy springiness to its surface that, when swirled, leaves behind stubby, slow-moving legs that take a long time to emerge, before finally crawling slowly down the glass

Smell – Beautifully aromatic with perfumy black cherry, black currant, dusky earth, fine black and white pepper, soft Christmas spices, tobacco, dusty mushroom (mineral) and smoky meats

Feel – Super light with a pronounced wetness at first, then the wine deepens on the mid-palate, digging in with a slight tannic bite that gradually emerges, bringing a slight dryness

Taste – Delicious layers of flavors, including cherry, red plum, soft dry minerals, and soft cedar

Finish – Ripe, juicy and bright, softly mouth-coating, delicious and supple, with soft tannins and flavors that go on and on

Conclusion – This is a delightful departure from many of the California Syrahs we have sampled of late. With a lighter than usual feel and flavors that lean to the bright side, rather than dark and rich, this is a Syrah that delivers fun and elegance, rather than heavy handedness – as some Syrah may tend to do. I hesitate to call this light-feeling wine a delicate wine, because while it does have a light feel, it is also long on big flavors and deep aromatics. Starting with incredible fruit from Unti and Teldeschi, Chris Stark has crafted a wonderfully approachable wine that pairs beautifully with most foods. We are so happy to have found Christian’s wines and we are even happier to share them with you today. Enjoy!

Mission Report:

It was a beautiful day, and me and Agent Sparkle were rushing from winery to winery, performing a rapid string of mini missions. We had been tasked by HQ to gather intel on several wineries in the Dry Creek Valley. We also had several evaluation samples to pick up along the way.

We love spending time in The DCV, so we had no complaints.

The Dry Creek Valley is a really remarkable place, with a great diversity of wine varietals and winemaking styles. Diverse, too, is the range of differentiation of a single varietal of grape – like Syrah. While not the most common grape grown in the valley, some really remarkable examples can be found here. Teldeschi Vineyard, itself a 4th generation family-farmed vineyard and Unti Vineyard, a DCV legend, produce some of the finest DCV Syrah.

When we finally arrived at Stark Winery, to meet with the husband and wife team of Christian (winemaker) and Jen Stark (General Manager), we were pooped from the frenetic pace of the day so far. We parked the “Top Secret Wine Van” and took in the beauty of the estate property. The afternoon was cool, but sunny, and a light mist hung over the vineyards.

Christian found us gawking at the property and invited us inside, where the amazing aromas of their cooking filled the air. We met Jen inside, and Christian explained that they were preparing meatballs for the evenings entertaining and wine tasting with friends. Sitting on a table was an open bottle of their Syrah, and two fresh glasses.

The wine was poured and an extended round of sniffing, swirling and sipping ensued. We chatted about their wonderful wine and about their winemaking philosophy.

Christian and Jen craft ultra-premium wines from the finest fruit, grown by vineyards that employ sustainable farming practices. They donate a portion of their profits to the arts, and their passion for incredible wine shines through in the Syrah and Viognier that they craft.

Today’s Stark Syrah is a delicious treat, and a real departure from the overly robust Syrah sometimes made by California producers. Found in this wine is elegance, balance and a bright acidity that make the wine a wonderful companion to most foods.

We had a great visit with Christian and Jen, and we hope that you have a chance to get to know them… through their great wine.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Unti Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

The location of Teldeschi Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Oberon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Over the Moon

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Oberon and ascertain Rob Mondavi’s winemaking prowess. If he passes the Wine Spies vetting process, retrieve Oberon’s best Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Oberon

Wine Subject: 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon – Napa Valley – Oso Vineyard

Winemakers: Rob Mondavi and Tony Coltrin

Backgrounder: The name Mondavi is instantly known to nearly all who enjoy finer wines. The Mondavi family, and Robert Mondavi winery, have been Napa Valley legend since 1966. When we were offered the opportunity to taste today’s wine – made by Robert Mondavi, Jr., – we were honored. Today’s wine is a delicious and rich Napa Cab that lives up to the Mondavi quest for fine wine perfection. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below for a complete profile of today’s wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet with perfect clarity, concentrated color to the rim of the glass, and a speedy yet weighty-looking surface that settles quickly after swirling, leaving behind skinny, widely-spaced legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – Lush layers of dark and smoky fruits, with a rush of soft spice with blueberry, blackberry, mocha and heavy minerals with soft cigar box and dark mushroom

Feel – Soft, light and plush on entry, then lush tannins take hold with a rich texture that coats your mouth as flavors expand and become even larger in your mouth

Taste – Deeply delicious with tender layers of lush fruit with dark mixed berries, smoky plum, chalky mineral, black cherry, tobacco, chocolate toffee, toasted vanilla (soft oak) and cassis

Finish – Extra long finish with richly layered medium tannins that dry slightly – but then leave behind big flavors that quickly increase in intensity and proportion before they gradually taper off

Conclusion – I was deeply impressed by this wine! To be honest, I didn’t know what to expect. I have deep respect for the talents and accomplishments of the Mondavi family and I approached this wine with an open mind. I was so blown away on first sip, and the wine became even better as it was allowed to breath. I do recommend at least 30 minutes of decanting on this elegant yet robust wine. I found greater depth and more dimensionality to the wine after jst 15 minues, but the wine really settles in and becomes even better with more time. Not your typical Napa Cab, this wine has enough restraint to make it very complimentary to most meals. I paired mine with a rather difficult black bean nachos with chees and medium salsa. The wine held up beautifully against the big flavors and spices present in the nachos and, in fact, offered a somewhat cleansing effect – all while maintaining its own flavor profile on my palate. If you are looking for a very balanced Napa Cab, look no further!

Mission Report:

Certainly you know that the Mondavi family is the stuff of legend in the wine industry. For purposes of this mission report, I won’t delve into the history of the family that has been called “America’s First Family of wine”.

Rather, I will tell you that today’s wine, this Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from Oberon, is a superb representation of generations of fine winemaking experience.

Robert Mondavi, Jr., the grandson of family patriarch Robert Mondavi, is certainly influenced by his family’s roots, but he is also very much his own man when it comes to making fine wines.

As President of Winemaking and Partner at Folio Fine Wine Partners, a company he founded in 2004 with his father Michael, and sister Dina, Rob oversees all wine production for the company. His Oberon wines, made in collaboration with winemaking partner, Tony Coltrin, himself a wine lifer, are made from Napa Valley grapes from vineyards in the Oakville, Rutherford and Stags Leap appellations – and from Napa’s emerging sub-appellations.

The team’s combined experience, when brought to bare on the finest fruit in the Napa Valley, produces wines of great refinement, style and even fun. Oberon’s wines are made to be enjoyed. They are also made to convey a real sense of place, by giving you a taste of the very best that the Napa Valley has to offer.

Oberon’s wines are also exceptionally food friendly, with the perfect balance of dark flavors against bright acidity and fun fruit that shines through in every sip. Even lighter meals will not be muscled by this wine. Instead, meals of all sorts will be complimented.

Today’s wine is delicious and robust, with great balance and a great feel.

Our spy hats are off to you, Rob Mondavi, you and Tony have crafted a really great wine with this 2005 Oberon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

We can’t wait to taste through your other creations!

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the Folio Winemaker’s Studio, where Agent Red first tasted today’s Cabernet Sauvignon, can be seen in this satellite photo.

1995 Burgess Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: A shining light

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Plumb the depths of Burgess Cellars’ archives and retrieve an amazing Cabernet Sauvignon of at least ten years of age

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Burgess Vineyard

Wine Subject: 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Steve Burgess

Backgrounder: To say that we have come to appreciate Burgess Cellars wines would be to understate the case dramatically. Burgess wines thrill us with their excellence. When we learned that there might be a few remaining cases of their 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, we dispatched Agent Red to procure as many as he could get his hands on. He returns, victorious, with a small cache of this incredible wine. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A surprising deep and pure ruby red, with none of the brickishness (orange-red color, like a brick) often found in older vintages. The wine appears youthful, springy and tight, with great clarity through its darker heart. When swirled, it settles quickly, leaving behind wide-spaced legs of medium width. Also left behind is a small amount of grainy sediment

Smell – Deeply aromatic with lush layers of dark fruit of mixed berries, plum and , lovingly intermingled with soft cedar, misty redwood forest, mild spice and softly smoky cherry

Feel – Supple, soft and velvet smooth at first, then the tenderness recedes just a little to reveal a slight dryness as soft tannins emerge, coating and drying the mouth

Taste – Incredibly delicious, with bright fruit of dark mixed berry, cherry, plum and cassis, balanced perfectly against earthen flavors of soft spice, tender toasty oak and subtle mint

Finish – Starts bright, juicy and mouth-coating, then darker and more earthen flavors accompany the fruit – before all flavors ramp down slowly.

Conclusion – This is very likely the best Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon I have ever tasted! Burgess’ secret? Start with the best fruit, grown during one of the most saught-after vintages, and then lovingly cellared under the best possible conditions. The result is a beautiful wine that is full of life and vibrancy. Thanks for the vision – and patience? – of Steve Burgess, you have a remarkable opportunity to enjoy this perfectly-aged Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine provides deep thrills, but also a valuable lesson: Proper storage of great wine can lead to incredible wine for the patient wine collector!

Mission Report:

Today’s mission was not fraught with intrigue, peril or spectacular sleuthing. Nor is this what some Operatives would call a smash & grab or even a hit and run mission. Yes, it was somewhat easy to procure today’s wine for you and yes we had to do a fair amount of begging for it. Other than that, you only need to know a few things about today’s Stupendous, Spectacular, Surreal and Sublime selection:

1) This wine was hidden away, deep inside the Burgess vaults. Its existence was a secret to all but those closest to the winery

2) The wine was tenderly cared for at Burgess, under ideal conditions for perfect aging

3) We only have a small allocation, so please be sure to order as much as you’ll ever want to have. You won’t likely see this wine again

4) Our handling of the wine will be with the utmost care and tenderness. We won’t ship the wine to you if weather conditions between ourselves and your location put the wine at any sort of risk (indeed, we protect all outbound shipments in the same way)

5) This wine is extraordinary. Its ready to drink now, and I believe that it still has more aging potential in it!

That all said, please be sure order your allotment early, and please do not tell non-Operatives about the wine. Let’s keep this one strictly to ourselves.

Covert Cheers,

Agent Red

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the lush Howell Mountain, in Napa, can be seen in this satellite photo..

2003 Ilona Howell Mountain

Mission Codename: The wine that launched a thousand ships

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure an exceptional Napa blend worthy of your cellar

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ilona winery

Wine Subject: 2003 Ilona Howell Mountain, Napa Valley

Backgrounder: The Howell Mountain region in the Napa Valley is the birthplace of some of our very favorite wines. We fell in love early on and we have not been disappointed by a high-elevation Howell Mountain wine yet. Today’s wine is a bold wine with a soft side. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet with a dark, deep and inky core. Bright ruby edges accentuate the look of the wine. When swirled, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind alternating clusters of slow fat legs and fast thin legs that ring the glass

Smell – The intriguing aromas of this wine hit you the moment you open the bottle, delivering unique aromas of vanilla, marshmallow, and earthy barnyard, with dark fruits of dark mixed berries, cassis, black currant and smoky plum. These are followed by soft spice and cedar

Feel – Round, velvet smooth and dry, this is a robust and full-bodied wine with great structure with super-fine and medium-firm tannins. A slight minerality contributes to the fine-grained feel

Taste – Focused and complex with flavors of smoky blackberry, black currant, dark cranberry and black plum, with follow-on flavors of licorice and cigar box

Finish – Long and mouth-coating, lingering with flavors of ripe black fruit, spice, wood and minerality

Conclusion – This Howell Mountain blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is a truly exceptional Bordeaux styled blend. The wine is drinking beautifully, and I believe that it will continue to progress beautifully for a few more years. Allow extra time in the air, and you will be rewarded with extra smoothness, lusher flavors and a greater aromatic quality.

Mission Report:

Today’s wine came to my attention on a recent visit to a Wine Spies favorite, Burgess Cellars. I had just completed an infiltration of Burgess when, on return to HQ, I found an extra bottle mixed in with the Burgess samples I had absconded with. The bottle was unlabeled.

The note attached to the bottle read:

Agent Red, I know that you love a good intrigue, so I slipped you this bottle. If you like it, I know that you’ll find a way to procure some for your operatives.

It was signed, “Zeus and Leda”.

Zeus and Leda, eh? Greek mythology. A subject of some torment for me of late. That, and actual Greek figures like Alexander the Great and Pliny the Elder, the latter of whom recently paid me a visit in incorporeal form. That I now had a Greek-related mystery made my heart sink – just a little.

Agent Sparkle spotted me sulking, staring at the shiner bottle (that’s an industry term for an unlabeled bottle). She asked me what was up, and I explained my angst and showed her the note. After less than a minute of thought, she declared, “This wine is from Ilona Wine in Napa!”

I stared at her, wordless, mouth agape. Finally I said, “And just how did you reach that conclusion?!”

“Easy. That note provided a clever clue, but maybe a little too simplistic. Follow along: Zeus and Leda. Greek Mythology. A secret asset at Burgess slips you the wine. Burgess has a sister winery, Ilona, whose name derives from Elaine – the mother of Ilona’s owner, for whom the winery is named. The name, Elaine come from Helen. Helen of Troy was the daughter of Zeus and Leda! Viola! Ilona Wine!

If I looked dumbfounded before, I must have looked like a total cretin as I stood there, staring stupidly at her.

She grabbed the bottle from me. “I’m taking this down to analysis,” she declared. And with that, she was gone.

An hour later, I received the following text message:

“Red: Sure enough, this wine does prove to be exactly what I thought it was! It is from Ilona, and its gorgeous. I recommend that you proceed to Ilona immediately. Our Operatives deserve to know about this one. – Sparkle out.”

And procure it I did.

Should I worry about my own job security? Agent Sparkle is just a little too good at this wine game…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the vineyards where today’s fantastic wine hails from is CLASSIFIED. Not further details can be made available at this time.