Archive for January, 2009

Avventura Vintners California Bubble Works

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, California with tags , , on January 31, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: All That Glitters

Operative: Agent Sparkle

Objective: Procure an outstanding, adventurous and delicious sparkling wine for our Romantic Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Avventura Vintners

Wine Subject: Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: David Stevens

Backgrounder: With Valentine’s Day approaching, resident Bubbly spy, Agent Sparkle, has been a very busy gal – sleuthing and hunting for the most unique and delicious sparkling treasures that she can find. Today she brings us a remarkable and extraordinary sparkling wine from Napa’s Sun Valley. Read her tasting notes and mission report below for full details.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – An incredible color that falls between copper and peach, with oodles of teeny-tiny bubbles that glide up to the surface in thin columns. Some bubble linger at the sparkling surface while others pop instantly on arrival

Smell – A rush of fresh apricot, nearly-ripe strawberry, vanilla extract, red apple pie, soft cherry and a hint of slate

Feel – This bubbly starts with ultra-fine bubbles that expand in the mouth. The wine is full-bodied and lightly mouth coating and slightly drying at the edges and rear of the mouth

Taste – Full and rich with flavors of apple crumble, cherry, pronounced apricot, fresh bread, cream and a hint of bourbon with an easy minerality

Finish – Starts sweet and light, then flavors ramp upward, peaking somewhat sweet and then tailing off with a mild mouth watering tartness and lingering flavors of apricot

Conclusion – A really wonderful bubbly, with stunning flavors and killer color, astounding aromatics and a unique feel. A perfect accompaniment to your most romantic rendezvous or as an elegant afternoon aperitif. Made in the traditional Méthode Champenoise, this is a serious wine with a seriously fun side.

Mission Report:

My favorite Cabernet Sauvignon, you ask? That’s easy. I go for big but balanced Napa Cabs every time! What does a Napa Cab have to do with today’s sparkling wine, you ask? You ask a lot of questions, don’t you!

Well, I’ll answer by telling you that today’s bubbly wine is a glorious fusion of my two favorites: Sparkling wine and Napa Cab!

I was skeptical, at first, but if hanging around with Agents Red and White have taught me anything, its to keep a wide open mind when it comes to wine. And so, with mind open and palate in perfect tune, I ventured forth to meet with our new friends at Avventura Vintners, the craftspeople behind a most unique and surprisingly delicious Sparkling Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.

David Stevens, winemaker (“Bubble Master?”) for Avventura is a former winemaker for Domaine Chandon, a respected Napa Bubblehaus. David’s approach to winemaking is reflected in his sparkling wine. He is part scientist and part creative naturist, imbuing his sparkling wines with all of the art and intelligence of his years of experience.

David’s Cab Sparkler is a beautiful and unique wine with a price that I think is beyond great value. If you are looking for something special to enjoy with someone special, I have to tell you that you must pick up a few bottles of this rare and delicious treat!

Cheers to you and Happy Valentine’s Day!!

2005 Maison Louis Latour Nuits-St-Georges AOC

Posted in France, Pinot Noir with tags , , , on January 30, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: Golden Slopes, Dark Nights

Operative: Agent White & Agent Blush

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of a delicious Cote D’Or rouge representative of our recent visit to Burgundy.

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Maison Louis Latour

Wine Subject: 2005 Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC

Backgrounder:

Nothing inspires thoughts of excellent Pinot Noir more than the Crus of the Cote de Nuits in Burgundy. And within the Cote de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC represents wines of dark robust color, profound structure and full-bodied flavors that have made the region famous. These wines age well with many known to retain their rich and spicy aromas, bold fruit flavors and subtle earthiness for up to 20 years.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy in color with garnet hues and a clear core. Ruby, fading to pink edges and fast thin legs race down the sides of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Classic and medium-bold, but also elegant aromas of wild fennel, floral violets layered over cherry and dark currant fruit with a slight barnyard and mushroom earthiness.

Feel – Smooth and dry, this medium-bodied wine has fine tannins and medium acidity leading to a round and elegant mouth-feel.

Taste – Flavors of ripe cherry along with other red and black berries that are extremely well integrated with earthy barnyard notes, a touch of fennel and horseradish that hits on the tip of the tongue and back of the palate and hints of oak.

Finish – Clean and lingering with layers of fruit, earthiness, spice and oak that evolves as you continue to enjoy this classic Burgundy.

Conclusion – The 2005 Louis Latour Nuits-Saint-Georges is a delicious and classic rouge from one of the best vintages in recent memory. This wine drinks beautifully immediately upon opening and as all great Burgundies do, it evolves as you continue to explore the aromas and flavors of this fine example from one of our favorite communes in the Cote D’Or. This wine will develop gracefully for the next 5-10 years but is also ready to drink now.

Mission Report:

I was in a haze, everything seemed dull and slow. I rubbed my eyes and took a deep breathe. Suddenly things came into focus. Had I fallen asleep at the wheel? I was driving down the Route des Grand Crus from Dijon towards Beaune. Just ahead was the commune of Nuits-Saint-Georges. The steeple of Saint Denis was starting to come into view.

I didn’t want to take any chances so once in the village I pull over to the side of the road and parked the car. Agent Blush and I got out and stretched our legs and walked into the village. Still feeling a little strange, I suggested that we find a place to grab a bite to eat and compose ourselves.

We found a small cafe just off the square and sat down. On one of the two chalk boards was the daily formula and on the other a selection of wines from the region. I was starting to feel better. I mean, what’s better than a great rustic Burgundian meal complimented by some great wine.

We started off with a plate of escargots to share and I ordered the boeuf bourguignon and Blush ordered coq au vin. To accompany the mail we had a a glass each, Agent Blush a blanc and me a rouge. There is just something unique about enjoying a great meal with great wine in the heart of it all. You could have pinched me, for I thought I was in heaven.


Escargots and some great wine in Burgundy

Just then I felt a sharp pain in my right arm and again things went fuzzy. As I blinked and rubbed my eyes, I was back in the office with Agent Blush standing over me.

” Are you just going to sleep or are you going to finish your tasting notes?”, she said.

”Huh? what, where am I?”

”Not again!, Just finish your notes on this wine,” she said as she left my office…

In the glass in front of me was the 2005 Louis Latour Nuits-Saint-Georges. Who would have thought that a simple tasting would have caused such a deep hallucination… But when the wine is good, the memories will follow.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the commune of Nuits-Saint-George can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Frazier Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted in Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Merlot, Petit Verdot with tags , , , on January 29, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: All in the family

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Our Operatives demand another great Frazier Cabernet Sauvignon. Send Agent Red to Napa Valley to investigate claims that the Frazier family has crafted an ‘03 Cab that holds its own against wines at twice the price. If verified, procure a suitable quantity for our Operatives to enjoy

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Frazier Family Estate Winery

Wine Subject: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Napa Valley

Winemakers: John Gibson

Backgrounder: Earlier this year, we procured a small allotment of Frazier’s fantastic 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. We loved the wine, as did our Operatives. The fervor that was expressed for the wine led Agent Red back to the winery, this time for stellar selection for the winery’s library. Read his tasting notes and mission report below for a complete profile of today’s wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet with a dark burgundy – almost black – heart with a speedy yet weighty-looking surface that settles quickly after swirling, leaving behind fat, tightly-spaced legs that move slowly down the glass

Smell – Lush layers of dark and smoky fruits, with a spicy rush of blueberry, blackberry, mocha, licorice and minerals with mild spice and soft cigar box

Feel – Wet, light and cool at initial entry, then lush tannins take hold with a rich texture that coats your mouth as flavors expand and become even larger in your mouth

Taste – Deeply delicious with lush layers of concentrated fruit of dark mixed berries, smoky plum, chalky mineral, black cherry, tobacco, dark chocolate and cassis

Finish – Extra long finish with richly layered medium tannins that dry but then leave behind big flavors that increase and then taper gradually

Conclusion – If I was crazy about the 2004 Cab from Frazier, I am Bonkers about this gorgeous 2003! This wine has a super mouthfeel, a delicious concentration of classic Napa flavors, layer upon layer of lush aromas and an intriguing finish. I love Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and this wine really shines through as one of the richest, duskiest and most delicious I have tried. With a little bottle age on it, this wine is drinking beautifully – and it will even continue to get better with age.

Mission Report:

What follows is a mission recap, from the first time we infiltrated the Frazier Family Estate winery:

I can’t divulge the exact details on how I procured today’s wine. I could tell you, but then, you know. I can, however,

As a Wine Spy, I have to develop new assets – those people that feed me intel on wines, wineries, winemakers and the like – all of the time. Sometimes these assets take a long time to develop, while others come about more quickly. Still others are developed through sheer chance – as is the case with my most recent asset.

Those who know me know that as recently as 2007, I was a competition foil fencer (you know, en guarde and the like). I wasn’t the greatest fencer, but would consistently hold my own at regional competitions. You also know that until January of 2009, I will remain stationed in Monterey, California. I was relocated here in late 2007 to help establish one of our three bases of operations, which now include Sonoma/Napa, Beverly Hills and Monterey. When I moved down from Sonoma, I found that Monterey had no fencing.

I was miserable, until I learned just this month that a few hardcore fencers gather at the local YMCA twice a week. I was elated.

I showed up last Sunday and found all of one fencer there. Better than none, and I gladly suited up. I won’t tell you how poorly I fenced, but I will tell you that the gentleman that I fenced turned out to be a former winemaker! We hit it off and chatted about the wine business between bouts.

The fencer, I’ll call him Tom, was winemaker for a prominent Monterey County winery that was acquired by a bigger Napa Valley winery. While has hasn’t been active in the business, his knowledge about wine and the global wine scene was impressive. We talked about a few wineries and I asked him if he had tasted a recent wine that knocked his socks off. He told me about Frazier Family Estate winery and their fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tom’s recommendation led me to activate another of my assets, Agent NV (as in envy and Napa Valley – more about NV in an upcoming mission). NV was able to get me a quick meeting with Kimberly Frazier, Operations Manager (meaning she does everything at the winery) and daughter of Bill Frazier, who founded the winery in 1995. Kim allowed us to secure a small quantity for you today, dear Operative, at a very special price. A hearty thanks to Kim!

Look for a subsequent mission, when we’ll feature another great Frazier wine. I hope to be able to spend some time with Kim and Bill in order to bring you another winery/winemaker interview. Look for that later this year.

Meanwhile, act fast, because this wine will go fast – and once its gone, its gone…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the beautiful Frazier Estate, where today’s Cabernet Sauvignon was grown, can be seen in this satellite photo.

Mumm Napa Valley Brut Prestige Extended Tirage

Posted in California, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir with tags , , , , on January 28, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: Mumms the word

Operative: Agent Sparkle, Wine Spies resident Sparkling wine expert

Objective: With the holidays behind us, and Valentine’s Day rapidly approaching, locate a stellar sparkler for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Mumm Napa

Wine Subject: Napa Reserve Brut Extended Tirage

Winemaker: Ludovic Dervin

Backgrounder: Ever the romantic, Agent Sparkle went out in search of a sparkling wine for our Operatives’ most romantic exploits. Today Agent Sparkle returns with a delicious stash of Mumm Napa’s Extended Triage Reserve Brut, a sparkling wine that delivers an added measure of richness and excitement over Mumm’s already wonderful sparklers. Read her detailed tasting notes and romantic mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – An incredible golden color, with just a hint of bronze. This beautiful sparkler glitters and glistens, with golden edges and clusters of tiny bubbles that cascade continuously up the glass

Smell – Crisp and fresh with aromatics of melon, citrus, fresh baked bread, honey and soft vanilla

Feel – This bubbly starts off with a steep blast of tiny bubbles at the front of the tongue, then the bubbles cascade and expand, leading to a full, crisp and rich feel

Taste – Delightfully delicious and broad flavors of fresh bread, and fruit of mild citrus, pear, pale fig, green apple and creamy honey

Finish – A bold start leads to flavors that linger, leaving behind sweetness, yeasty bread dough and fresh white fruits that taper slowly

Conclusion – Mumm Napa continues to produce some of my favorite sparkling wines, and today’s Mumm bubbler is a richly refined winner! With greater depth and greater flavor than their excellent regular Brut Prestige, this wine offers a more refined and more elegant experience. I am oh, so picky about the bubbly wines that I choose for you, and I recommend this sparkler for your next romantic rendezvous!

Mission Report:

Agent Sparkle here with a brief report. Sorry to make this so short, but, I am off for the rarest of occurrences in the life of a Wine Spy: time off!

Yes, H.Q. is rewarding me with some well-earned R&R and I plan to take full advantage. Suitcase packed and wine carrier stuffed full of Mumm Napa’s rich and delicious Extented Tirage, I am off for a romantic rendezvous in the Caribbean.

This sparkling masterpiece from Mumm is the perfect accompaniment and I recommend it for you next romantic encounter. Remember, Operative, Valentine’s Day is fast approaching. If you order this wine today, it will arrive in time for you and your sweetheart to enjoy on V-Day.

If you forget about how we first came to infiltrate the Mumm winery, I have included the following mission recap for your reading pleasure:

It was a high level meeting of all of our overseas operatives. HQ wanted to have a rare face-to-face. We needed to get on the same page and refocus our efforts. I, Agent Sparkle, was tasked with arranging the summit.

Choosing the location was easy; I just had to get us all to the Monterey safe-house. Agents from around the world arrived. It was good to see Agent Baco Noir in the flesh, in her signature Italian pumps. Agent J played pilot to Agent Terroir and Agent White, flying them both in in her Citation X. They had come all the way from France for the meeting (stay tuned for the results of that ongoing mission). Agent Red arrived a little late but, as a founder of The Wine Spies, he can get away with it.

Agent Grenache, the heavy-lifter of the group, fresh cleaning up our latest logistical nightmare, was in attendance. So, too, were Agent Neutron and Agent Orange (our hipster Paso Robles Operatives), Agent Noir (Monterey), and Agent Smith (you read about him in Agent Red’s mission report of yesterday). Also in attendance were a select group our Agent’s field assets, moles, and confidential informants.

The meeting room was packed. So was the agenda: There were extended tastings to conduct, technical analysis, sessions on trade-craft, research on trends and perhaps most importantly, the latest harvest reports.

It was a long and grueling day and thankfully Agent Red arranged a great after-conference BBQ, Aussie style, in my honor. He arranged the dinner, but I had arranged the refreshment of the evening, a beautiful sparkling wine from my newest friends, Mumm Napa.

Mumm Napa’s Reserve Brut became an instant favorite from the moment I first placed the winery under surveillance. It took some skillful subterfuge to procure enough to serve at our gathering – and to keep enough for our well-deserving Operatives for today’s offering. We’re sorry that you weren’t able to attend our conference, but I am sure that today’s superb bubbly is consolation enough.

The day behind us, the BBQ was in full swing. We were having a great time, and I just love the fall along the California coast. It was the perfect way to finish the days activities, watching the sun set into the mighty Pacific – with a glass of Champagne in hand.

Agent Terroir raised his glass and said, “A mes amis et à un grand avenir!, A votre sante!”. He took a sip and smiled at Agent Sparkle with a glowing look of approval. Sparkle just smiled back and whispered to Red, ”Mumm’s the word.”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The gorgeous Rutherford, California location of the Mumm Napa winery and vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Stonegate Winery Diamond Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Merlot with tags , , , , on January 26, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: Heavens Gate

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure a superior library vintage Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley’s Stonegate Vineyards

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Stonegate Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Gerard Zanzonico

Backgrounder:

The fruit for this exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Napa Valley’s Diamond Mountain AVA located in the north east corner of Napa in the Mayacamas mountains. This mountain fruit, grown in porous volcanic soil that drains well with more exposure to sunlight results in berries that are more concentrated in both flavor and intensity. Only about 600 acres of vines are planted in the AVA’s 5,000 total acres. Today’s wine is a superb example of the quality which is possible within this very special region. Read Agent Red’s mission report and tasting notes below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A dark burgundy-purple with concentrated color out to its deep ruby edges, with a dark inky core of black plum. The wine looks slightly viscous and when swirled leaves long and slender legs at the edge of the glass

Smell -Dusky blueberry leads the charge, followed by deep and dark aromatic stonefruit, soft spice, mocha and softest smoked meats. This is complimented by mild toasted cedar and soft oak

Feel – Smooth, cool and light on entry, then slightly drying medium-firm but fine tannins take hold at the edges of the mouth. This full-bodied wine is well structured with good acidity a great feel that becomes velvety smooth as it opens up

Taste – An initial attack of red fruit of cherry, dusky raspberry and red currant. These bright flavors are tempered against deeper and darker flavors of earth, mushroom, plum and cigar box

Finish – This supple wine finishes long and smooth with lavish layers of dark fruit that tail off, one by one, leaving a mouthwatering dryness and dried black fruit flavors that linger

Conclusion – We continue to be enthralled by Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon! Today’s wine exemplifies just how wonderful a Diamond Mountain Cab can be. Rich, full and long on flavors and aromatics, this wine is a balanced beauty with a softer side, making it a brilliant partner for most foods. Have you had had a Diamond Mountain Cab? If not, this is a superb choice. If you have… Oh! You already ordered today’s wine!

Mission Report:

For nearly 36 years, Stonegate Winery has been a Napa Valley legend, known for producing the finest estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot. While it led the charge in the early 1970s, today the winery is experiencing a resurgence. The exact details are highly classified, however.

Unless you have double top secret clearance, you won’t be able to read today’s complete mission report. Suffice it to say, all will be revealed – in time.

For now, you may content yourself with today’s exceptional 2003 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine of wonderful balance, delicious flavors and layers of rich aromatics.

How were we able to procure an allotment of this incredible and mysterious wine? We could tell you, but, you know…

Meanwhile, please stay tuned, and expect another great Stonegate wine – and the full skinny on this mysterious winery – in the near future! And, take it from me, you do NOT want to miss out on today’s great Diamond District Cab. Its that amazing.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of Stonegate Vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2003 Le Benducce de Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Posted in Italy, Sangiovese with tags , , , on January 25, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: The Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing

Operative: Agent Blush

Objective: Secure an exclusive Brunello di Montalcino

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Le Benducce de Tornesi

Wine Subject: 2003 Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Winemaker: Maurizio Tornesi

Backgrounder:

Brunello di Montalcino occupies a special place in the hearts of all Wine Spies. Coming from a very distinct and designated (DOCG – officially designated in 1967 as one of Italy’s first DOC classified wines) region in Tuscany about 70 miles south of Florence, Brunellos typically are the best wines produced from the Sangiovese grape. By regulation, Brunellos must be produced by using a 100% Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape, hence the mystic and lore of this exceptional wine. Typically, Brunellos are among the most expensive Italian wines, which is why today’s wine is such an exceptional offering.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep dark burgundy with a dark, almost black clear core, this thick and viscous wine has brick with pinkish hued edges and slow thin legs when swirled.

Smell – Medium in intensity, with complex spice and smokey notes of oak, licorice, cloves, floral violet, and pepper layered over ripe black cherry and raspberry fruit. Hints of truffles and mocha also emerge and linger as this wine opens up.

Feel – If sipped immediately upon opening, the attack of this wine is powerful and bright, given time, this dry full-bodied wine has a firm, but fine tannic structure and easy acidity.

Taste – Bold flavors with tart fruit initially, but be patient, and give this time to breathe and you’ll be rewarded with rich layers of black cherry, red fruit and plum; spice, including licorice and floral violets; a distinct minerality; toasty and smokey oak; a touch of tar and Italian zest.

Finish – Long and lingering finish with well balanced flavors of spice, rich plummy fruit and lingering oak components.

Conclusion – This Brunello di Montalcino, or nice dark one, is classic in every sense of the style. Bold and rich with deep complex aromas and flavors that are mellowed and integrated after extended maturation in oak casks. This wine is drinking beautifully now and will continue to develop for the next decade in your cellar. If you Love Brunello di Montalcino, then this Tornesi is going to make a great addition to your cellar.

Mission Report:

ring… ring…

My spy communicator again. Does it ever stop ringing?

“Hello?”

The voice on the other end, obviously electronically disguised, said, “Dead drop. La Loggia. 3rd Arch. Mark plus 18 hours…. Mark.”

The line went dead.

Who was that, how would I possibly make it to Italy in 18 hours, and how do I know it wasn’t a trap?

Requesting detailed analysis, I sent the automatic recording of the call to Central Command, where Agent Red was the acting Ops Chief. A few minutes later, Red reported back, suggesting that the source could not be verified – but that the 3rd arch of La Loggia might have some significance.

Approving the mission, Red arranged transport and I was underway. 14 hours later, well rested and ready for action, I hopped into my rental car and sped through the Italian countryside.

On arrival at La Loggia, a 14th and 15th century construction which consists of 6 beautiful archways, I noted that the area was filled with tourist throngs. On a beautiful day like today, I am not surprised.

Making my way to the 3rd arch, a young man catches my eye. He smiles at me as he passes me and looks down into his hand, which is clutching a small package. I follow him with my eyes and watch as he sets the package down next to a waste can before walking on.

Making my way to the can I casually scoop up the box and carry it to a nearby bench. I set my spy communicator on top of it and key it to analyze the contents. Almost instantly, the screen displays: “Findings inconclusive, handle with caution.”

Alarm bells ring out in my head. Looking around at all of the people, I decide that it would be best to deal with this right here, rather than risk upsetting whatever might be inside.

I remove a hairpin from my hair and use it to open the box (only spy hairpins have a finely sharpened edge). The box now open, I hear a distinct ticking sound. My heart races. I delicately remove layers of paper packing material to reveal two boxes, one large and one small, the ticking sound coming from the latter.

I take out the bigger box. There is liquid inside. Wine Spies don’t do bombs, for goodness sake, we sleuth out wines. The most danger I have ever experienced was when a corkscrew malfunctioned and I cut my thumb.

Gently, I open the larger box. Whew! It is just a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino inside. Relieved only for the briefest moment, I suddenly remember the smaller ticking box!

As I begin to remove the box, a soft voice above me says, “Maybe these will help”.

Looking up, I see a grinning Agent White. He has two wine glasses in his hand and a huge smile on his face.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The Montalcino region can be viewed in this satellite photo.

2006 Mounts Family Winery Zinfandel

Posted in California, Zinfandel with tags , , on January 24, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: The hills are alive

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate the Mounts Family winery, and procure their popular estate zinfandel

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Mounts Family Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2006 Zinfandel

Winemaker: David Mounts

Backgrounder:

The Mounts family grows a variety of grapes on their hillside estate in Sonoma County’s beautiful Dry Creek Valley. This is an area best known, perhaps, for its rollicking Zinfandel and today’s example from Mounts is classic Dry Creek. Agent Red and junior agent, Agent Syrah, recently paid the Mounts Family a visit on their estate vineyards, where they tasted their wines and learned about the family’s long history of farming, grape growing and winemaking in the valley. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – A deep ruby red, with a heart of pure dark garnet. Held up to the sun, this wine shows great clarity, with is interesting for a wine that is minimally handled during vinification. When swirled, this wine shows a fast-settling surface and widely spaced skinny legs that move down the glass at varying speeds

Smell – Bold and aromatic, with mixed dark berries, toasty caramel, vanilla, black cherry strawberry and soft spice

Feel – Very round, lush and light-weight on the entry, then soft on the mid where the wine reveals its ripe tannins that coat the mouth and pucker the lips

Taste – Balanced with both bright and slightly dusky flavors of tart plum, black berry, blueberry, smoky strawberry, cassis and cherry, with a subtle hint spices including pepper, clove, very subtle cinnamon.

Finish – This wine finishes smooth with balanced flavors of its fruit, spice and a touch of earthiness

Conclusion – This wonderful Zinfandel clearly showcases the fruit and the talents of the Mounts Family. Certainly a fruit-driven Zin, this wine weighs brightness against richly dark aromas and flavors, delivering a wine of great balance and wonderful character. Bright acidity lends the wine to easy pairing without overpowering even lighter foods

Mission Report:

It was a warm and beautiful morning. The temperature was close to 70 degrees and the sky was a perfect clear blue. It was a typical spring morning in the Dry Creek Valley. If only it was Spring! It was, in fact, the beginning of January where, even here in California, we should be experiencing cooler temps – and our share of vine-sustaining rains!

Agent Syrah was with me on another training mission. For this one, he led the mission to Mounts Family Winery. I had given Agent Syrah the directive of locating a superb California Zinfandel. I gave him free reign, allowing him to choose the region and winery.

Almost immediately, he came up with a winery.

“What do you have,” I asked.

“Mounts. 06. Estate Zin. DCV. Intel suggests a classic DCV, ripe, lush, balanced. 400 cases.”

“Very good. Next steps?”

“I would suggest a direct infiltration. No extended surveillance. Proceed immediately.”

With that, we made our way to mounts.

After a drive through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley, we found ourselves at the bottom of a long uphill driveway. the drive led through pristine hillside vineyards, eventually leading us to the winery at the crest of the hill.

As we parked, a woman approached. Agent Syrh said, “Lana Mounts. General Manager and wife of David Mounts, the winemaker.”

If I was not already impressed, I was now. Agent Syrah was shaping up to be a fine Wine Spy.

Agent Syrah took command, introducing Lana to me as though he already knew her, and I was someone she needed to know. He cut right to the chase, explaining that we had been investigating her winery – and that we were here to evaluate and – if we loved their wines – appropriate Mounts Family wines for our Operatives.

Lana took us to here wine cave and we were soon joined by her husband, David Mounts. We tasted through their wines and we were very impressed. I gave Agent Syrah the signal and he quickly negotiated for a quantity of today’s excellent Mounts Family Estate Zinfandel.

If you ever find yourself in the Dry Creek Valley, stop in to Mounts for a tasting. The vineyards are beautiful, the people a pleasure to hang out with – and the wines are really wonderful.

Finally, be sure to keep an eye out for Agent Syrah’s future missions. I have a feeling that this young spy is destined for greatness.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Mounts Family Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Black Cat Vineyard Family Cuvee

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Red Blend, Syrah with tags , , , , on January 23, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: Here, Kitty, Kitty…

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Black Cat Winery and acquire a small allocation of their famous red blend

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Black Cat Vineyard

Wine Subject: 2005 Family Cuvee – Red blend

Winemaker: Tracey Reichow

Backgrounder:

Our Operatives are crazy about Bordeaux style red blends. We have not featured a great California blend here recently, and demand by our Operatives has been increasing. For today’s wine, we sent Agent Red back to Black Cat Vineyard to visit with winemaker Tracey Reichow – and to put her Family Cuvee to the test. Agent Red loved the wine and you can read his mission report and tasting notes below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Ruby red to garnet, with a darker Burgundy heart. When swirled, this wine shows a springy surface that settles quickly. The edges stop spinning quickly and, interestingly, the center keeps spinning for a long time. This wine exhibits mixed-width legs that are unevenly spaced on the edges of the glass

Smell – Lush bright fruits of cassis, cranberry and cherry, with darker aromatics of black cherry, blackberry, cigar box, soft spice and vanillan with the most subtle hint of burnt caramel sugar (a wonderful addition)

Feel – Initially round, the slightly grippy as subble tannins coat the mouth and dry the top and rear of the mouth

Taste – Rich, bright and softly smoky, this wine show off its great fruit as led by dark mixed berries, cassis and plum. These are followed by dark cherry and a hint of soft spice and sweetwoods

Finish – Long and brightly clean with a slight dryness, fruit and spice

Conclusion – Another great wine from Tracey Reichow, and a testament to the love and care that she infuses into each bottling. This is a beautifully balanced wine, that has an easy-drinking quality to it, but also a sincerity. This is a real blend-lover’s wine that pairs easily with many different types of foods. The classy and classic Napa Cab shines through in this wine, beautifully complimented by the lush and rich Syrah. If you are looking for a very flexible wine that can be be enjoyed on its own or with a fine meal, this is a winderful choice.

Mission Report:

The following is a transcribed conversation (with notes) which took place in the mid-1990’s, between Tracey Reichow, and a handsome and sturdy black cat.

BLACK CAT: Mert!

TRACEY REICHOW: Hello puss. Are you lost?

BLACK CAT: No. I was just going for a stroll, and thought I see what was going on here. This used to be great gopher-stalking land. What are you doing?

TRACEY: I’m planting a vineyard. I’m going to grow grapes and make wine here.

BLACK CAT: Wine, huh? I’ve smelled the stuff but, honestly, it makes my whiskers sort of curl.

TRACEY: We humans like it. It elevates our spirits and makes a great meal even better.

BLACK CAT: Kinda like a hunting a cricket and the satisfying crunch that a successful catch brings?

TRACEY: Umm, I guess so.

BLACK CAT: You mind if I hang out and watch you? I’ll just sit here in the shade.

TRACEY: Sure. Now that I’m done clearing the land – that tractor was a blast to drive – I’ll be digging post holes for the vine trellises.

BLACK CAT: (Yawn)

TRACEY: I hope that the pounding sounds don’t bother you.

And so it was that the Black Cat came into Tracey’s life

BLACK CAT: I caught a mole. Its for you. I’ll leave it right here for you.

TRACEY: Thanks, I think.

BLACK CAT: What are you going to do today?

TRACEY: Well, the irigation is all in. Sorry about that spray of water yesterday, by the way. Today I’ll be planting Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

BLACK CAT: And Catnip, too?

TRACEY: Not today, Black Cat.

BLACK CAT: I was thinking that I should adopt you. In fact, I’ve decided. You are now my human.

And so it was that the Black Cat came to live in the vineyards, working side-by-side with Tracey, while the vineyards came to life

BLACK CAT: I heard you talking about winemaking the other day. The fellow you were talking to kept saying ’passion this’ and ’terroir that’. It all sounded like so much fluff. I can tell what you believe about winemaking.

TRACEY: Well, I do believe that winemaking is an art, and that somewhere at the intersection of art and science is where great wines are made.

BLACK CAT: That’s dandy. Sounds nice, too, but you imbue your wines with something else that makes them special. You imbue love. You nurture your wines and when I watch other humans enjoy them, I see the glow that they get.

TRACEY: Thank you Black Cat. I aspire to create wines of beauty and elegance. I also make wines that make food better. I don’t think that a wine should be a centerpiece. Rather, it should make everything around it better.

BLACK CAT: Then, from what I see, you’ve done it. Speaking of food, what’s for dinner?

TRACEY: Ahhh. Tonight we’ll be enjoying our 2005 Syrah with friends. I think that I’ll grill some blackened Tri-tip. Although, I do love long-cooked pork ribs. This wine is very versatile.

BLACK CAT: How about a nice fat mousie, too?

And so it went for some years. Black Cat lorded over the vineyard, becoming Tracey’s shadow, friend and confidant. Today, nearly 15 years later, Black Cat’s spirit lives on – and the winery is home to almost a dozen cats. One night, during Black Cat’s reign, four other near-identical black felines showed up on the vineyard, each of them carving out a niche in the vineyard – and in Tracey’s heart…

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Black Cat Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

2005 Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted in Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Merlot with tags , , , , on January 22, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: Elemental Force

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire a limited allocation of a delicious Napa Valley Cab from Agustin Huneeus.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Faust – Napa Valley

Wine Subject: 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Charles Thomas & Aaron Pott

Backgrounder:

The fruit from this wine hails from vineyards in both Rutherford AVA and the Tulocay region (soon to be named an AVA). Rutherford, just south of Saint Helena is of course perhaps the most famous AVA in Napa and the lesser known Tulocay region is just east of Napa City proper.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep dark burgundy with dark purple hues and deep garnet edges showing the wines concentration through to the edges and a dark slightly inky core. Evenly spaced thin legs ring the glass when swirled.

Smell – Big, well developed and integrated lush black cherry and fresh cut ceder layered over aromas of other red and black fruit, herbal pepper and anise, spice, and earthy notes.

Feel – The initial attack on this wine shows its exceptional minerality and slight tanginess. Dry, fine and firm tannins show this wine’s exceptional structure. A touch of spice hits the tip, edges and back of the palate.

Taste – Bold and rich, intense and concentrated, this wine leads with flavors of black cherry, blackberry and other black and red fruits with a distinct cedar component. These classic Cabernet characteristics are well integrated with flavors of exotic spice, herbaceous green pepper and a touch of orange peel and cocoa.

Finish – Long and clean with lingering minerality and structure, fruit and spice.

Conclusion – The 2005 Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is truly an exceptional wine that is drinking very well now (decant or let breathe to fully explore the aromas and flavors) and with enough structure to continue to develop in your cellars for years to come. Bold and concentrated, but showing a certain elegance and finesse, this Cab is why Napa Valley is famous for the varietal.

Mission Report:

Every once in a while, Ops asks one of us to ‘investigate’ our fellow operatives and while none of us enjoy being second guessed or having someone look over our shoulders, its a part of the job. We need to ensure that the wines that are selected are indeed of exceptional quality and character. Thus, when I was asked to verify Agent Red and Sparkles love of the wines from Agustin Huneeus and his classic tribute to Napa’s noble grape , I knew I had to tread carefully.

Red has an impeccable palate although every once in a while he goes overboard for a wine, I trusted him and as such, having a wine with such a tremendous reputation, my report on his tastings and missions would be easy. Great wines justifies great reviews…

The mission, codenamed ”Elemental Force” was supposed to be simple. Acquire a wine sample, taste it, compare with previous tastings and indicate through our W.I.N.E. (Wine Internet Nexus Engine) our calibrated taste profile. Well that’s when things went south, and fast. Red must have gotten word that he was being investigated. I tried to be discrete in my travel planning as to avoid even crossing paths, but no such luck. As soon as I arrived at the top secret tasting site I noticed Red sitting there with my bottle, open, a glass poured for himself and an evil grin on his face…

”Nice spy craft,” he said, as he beaconed me over and poured me a glass. ”Hopefully, you do a better job on your overseas missions!” he cackled

”Don’t worry, this one is easy, its that good,” he continued.

I just smiled as I lifted the glass to my nose and then took a sip. There was no point in trying to hid it. The 2005 Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was great and my report to Ops will reflect that.

That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate Faust in Rutherford can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Starry Night Winery Montafi Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel

Posted in California, Zinfandel with tags , , , on January 21, 2009 by thewinespies

Mission Codename: The End of an Era

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of the Starry Night Montafi Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Starry Night Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Montafi Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel

Winemaker: Wayne Hansen

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is often aptly named California’s grape. Its history and lore and the wines that result are often the makings of legend. In this case, Starry Night’s winemaker selected the best old-vine grapes from a number of the Russian River’s best vineyards to pay tribute to grape growing and cultivating legacy of Tom Feeney. Many of these vineyards have been planted for nearly 100 years. The Russian River Valley is ideally suited for red grape varietals. Its early morning fog and coastal breezes result in a cooler climate than the neighboring wine growing regions.

Tom Feeney Ranch was made famous by the exceptional De Loach’s Old Vine Zinfandels . The vineyards on the ranch, including the Montafi Vineyard, are considered among the finest for Old Vine Zinfandel in all of California, and were originally planted in the 1920s. Tom purchased these Zinfandel vineyards from De Loach in the late 90’s, adding to his old vine estate which contain the Piner, River and Montafi vineyards. These grapes are among the most sought after, and once you’ve tasted wines from this magnificent vineyard you know why.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep, dark purple with dark ruby hues and a dark but clear core. Deep garnet and ruby edges and evenly spaced long thin legs grace the glass when swirled.

Smell – Classic Tom Feeney Ranch aromas of wild bramble berry and wild fennel balanced over layers of oak, spicy white pepper and a touch of oak.

Feel – Smooth and dry with supple tannins and easy acidity, this medium bodied wine is easy to drink with only a touch of tartness at the back of the palate.

Taste – Wild berries including raspberry, blackberry and a touch of plum with well integrated flavors of fennel, earthy minerality, oak, and white pepper. A touch a tart fruit and spicy pepper hits you at the back of the palate that lingers through to the finish.

Finish – This wine finishes clean and of medium length with hints of wild berries, plum and spice.

Conclusion – Like the other Starry Night Winery Zinfandels we have tasted, the 2006 Montafi Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel does not disappoint. Balanced and well integrated, this wine’s exceptional fruit really shines through without overpowering tannins or acidity. Lovers of old vine Zinfandel will enjoy the classic aromas and flavors and those who generally stray away, will most definitely enjoy the finesse of this exceptional (both in taste and value) wine.

Mission Report:

Starry Night Winery, a relative newcomer, is definitely a winery to watch. Opening in 1999 with its first vintage in 2000, it could not have achieved such success in such a short time without true attention to detail and the best fruit. And that’s where today’s selection comes in…

Tom Feeney Ranch was made famous by the exceptional De Loach’s Old Vine Zinfandels from the Barbieri and Papera vineyards. These two vineyards are considered among the finest for Old Vine Zinfandel in all of California, and were originally planted in the 1930s. Tom purchased these Zinfandel vineyards from De Loach in the late 90’s, adding to his old vine estate which contain the Piner, River and Montafi Vineyards. These grapes are among the most sought after, and once you’ve tasted wines from this magnificent vineyard you know why.

Characteristically and classically Zinfandel with exceptional balance between its dark cherry fruit, both black and white pepper spice, and its toasty, earthy and bramble-bush base.

This is truly how I love my Zinfandels!

To truly experience this wine and its exceptional fruit, you just have to taste it and experience it for yourself.

But it is with a heavy heart, that I have to report that today’s wine is one of the final vintages from this exceptional vineyard. This year’s vintage, 2008, will be the last vintage of Old Vine Zinfandel. All the more reason to stock up. Truly, the end of an era

Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate location of the Montafi Vineyard can be seen in this satellite photo.

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