2005 Sebastiani Winery Secolo Proprietor’s Wine Selection

Mission Codename: The Centurian

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery, and secure their flagship Bordeaux blend – Secolo

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery

Wine Subject: 2005 Secolo – Sonoma Red Wine

Winemaker: Mark Lyon

Backgrounder:

Today’s fantastic red blend come to us from one of Sonoma’s oldest and most experienced winemaking families, Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery. Made from Bordeaux varietals, grown in Sonoma County, today’s wine is a wonderful varietal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Petite Verdot. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report, below, for the the complete scoop on today’s wine

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Rich burgundy with a deep and dark heart, concentrated color right out to the edges of the wine. When swirled, this wine shows a super-tight surface that settles quickly, leaving behind stubby legs that start high up on the glass and then crawl down slowly

Smell – Layers of deep aromas! Layers of dark cherry and blackberry lead the charge, giving way to chestnut, dark plum, toasted cocoa bean, vanilla and oak

Feel – Complex and big, starting with a rich and semi-sharp feel up front, leading to a more balanced and softer experience on the mid-palate. Medium tannins take hold and grip the lips and cheeks. Overall, a very lush experience in the mouth

Taste – Intensely dark and dusky with bright cherry, smoked blackberry and dark plum are followed by dark chocolate-covered cherries, mineral and soft earthen spice

Finish – A Long and slightly dry finish, with lingering flavors of mixed berry and a slight stemmy flavor

Conclusion – A rich and robust wine that is long on aromas and deep flavor, this wine delivers a big experience. With dark fruits and firm tannins, this wine big character, a mouth-feel that makes it a pleasure to drink and a flavors that will keep you coming back for more. Pair with richer foods, such as grilled meats and hard cheeses – or enjoy on its own. At our price of $28, this wine is an exceptional value

Mission Summary:

It was my pleasure to spend some time with Mark Lyon, winemaker for Sebastiani. We chatted as we toured the winery and vineyards. Here is a transcript of the highlights from our conversations:

AGENT RED: Thanks for the tour, Mark! I’m really happy to be here with you today.

MARK LYON: Thanks for coming! Its refreshing to find a wine merchant that takes the time to get to know a winery – and our wines.

RED: I appreciate that compliment, Mark. We put alot of love and attention into choosing and reviewing each wine that we showcase. We’re very picky, which lead me to you today. How’s life at the moment? With harvest and crush behind you, are you getting a little time off?

MARK: Hmmm, let me think. Actually, I did take a day off recently.

RED: I see. The life of a winemaker is a busy one, I know. In your case, you grow grapes as well, so that must make you doubly busy.

MARK: Truly, it does.

RED: How does the 2008 crop look?

MARK: It was a challenging year, but a bittersweet one. The crop size was down by about 40%, because we lost a lot of fruit to frost and shatter. Clusters were smaller and berries were, too. The fact that we were in the second year of drought drought didn’t help either. The fruit that we did get was exceptional. This is why I call this year a bittersweet one.

RED: I keep hearing the same from other winemakers and growers. It look like 2008 will be a very sought after year. The fact that supply will also be curtailed, well, that will have an effect. We’ll have to get our futures orders in now!

MARK: It will be a small production year, but a great one.

RED: Let me get back to the topic of growing again. The fact that you are involved in the growing is a real benefit, I would imagine.

MARK: It is! By spending time in the vineyards, I get to be a part of the entire process. Its a team effort to be sure, and the vineyard team has their hands full year round, but I like to keep a close eye on the grapes.

RED: Tell me about the grapes the go into the Secolo.

MARK: Sure, but first let me tell you a little bit about the Secolo: This is a special wine that allows me to blend for perfect balance. The wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, and some of the grapes come from my personal vineyard, but the other grapes – the Malbec, Merlot and Petite Verdot – allow me craft a wine that is elegant and refined.

RED: I notice that the wine drinks more like a traditional Bordeaux blend. Is this intentional?

MARK: Indeed! Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa can tend to be overly muscly and sometimes even brutish. I strive for greater softness and fruit character. My oak regimens are far more restrained that some Napa Cab regimes. I use lot’s of new oak – French and Hungarian – and the wines are in barrel for a lot less time than a Napa Cab might be. This allows the fruit to shine through, but the new oak also has time to impart its wonderful qualities into the wine.

RED: Your Secolo is very good. I can see why it is so popular with wine drinkers. Its ready to drink now, but I suspect that it could become even better with more time. What are your thoughts on aging this wine?

MARK: It is ready to drink now, that’s for sure. It will probably peak in another 4 to 6 years, but I suspect that the wine will be great for far longer.

RED: Tell me, how did you get involved in winemaking? My sources tell me that you are a lifer in the business.

MARK: Your sources are well informed, then. When I was sixteen, I went to Europe with my grandparents. There, drinking wine at that age was the norm. It was a part of most meals and I was blessed to sample many exceptional wines in France and Italy. I was hooked and when I returned to the States, I knew that I would be involved.

RED: … and in 1978, you enrolled at the University of California at Davis. You graduated with other prominent winemakers like Randall Graham and Dave Ramey…

MARK: Wow, you really do have your sources. What did I do then?

RED: well, we place you with a handful of wineries in your earliest career, and in 1980 you purchased vineyard land, but your career has really been focused right here with Sebastiani.

MARK: Impressive. Yes, I was hired as a supervisor way back, and I rose through the ranks to become winemaker for Sebastiani.

RED: Let me ask you, briefly, about your winemaking style here at Sebasitani. Would you characterize yourself as a naturalist winemaker or more of a mad Scientist?

MARK: Certainly a naturalist. I am more viticulturally based, rather than scientifically. Since I own and manage vnieyards, I understand the entire process and so I am more grounded in traditional techniques.

RED: I realize that we are running late, so let me just ask you about food pairing with this wine. What is your go-to favorite with this wine?

MARK: Funny you should ask now, because I just enjoyed a bottle of this wine the other night with a nice fillet! It was wonderful. A great steak works well, but so, too, does a nice rustic pasta dish or eggplant Parmesan. Even a real ratatouille!

RED: Would you like to leave our Operatives with any final thoughts on this wine?

MARK: Only that it is a gorgeous wine that I worked hard on – in order to give it a supple balance and elegance. Like the wines of Bordeaux, this wine was crafted in the vineyard and in the cellar – without intervening overly – making it a harmonious and fabulous wine!

RED: Thanks so much for the tour and the talk, Mark. I really appreciate your time.

MARK: It was my pleasure, Agent Red. Say hello to all of your Operatives for me!